RUTA4y5_42a61 OK ingles.qxp:rutas 02/07/10 13:27 Página 52 From Teruel to Sagunto along Ojos Negros, the longest, boldest and most original green way Route 5 From Barracas to Sagunto 1 • Station: Estación de Toras-Bejis 12 • Station: Antigua Estación de Jérica 2 • Pass: El Ragudo 13 • Marsh: Pantano del Regajo 3 • Farmhouse: Masía del Ragudo y Fuente 14 • Waterspout: Fuente de Los Baños 4 • Navajo de Zalón 15 • Waterfall: Cascada del Brazal/Salto de la 5 • Viaduct: Viaducto de la Fuensanta Novia 6 • Spring: Manantial de la Fuensanta 16 • Hermitage: Ermita de la Esperanza 7 • Station: Estación de Caudiel 17 • Cave: La Cueva Santa 8 • Tower: Torre del Molino 18 • Peñalba 9 • Mount: Monte Royo 19 • Monastery: Cartuja de Valdecristo 10 • Viaduct: Viaducto de Cascajar 20 • Cerro de la Ermita 11 • Viaduct: Viaducto sobre Río Palancia RUTA4y5_42a61.qxp:rutas 29/06/10 7:33 Página 53 52 - 53 This route, which ends our travels through the integrated the railway line into the environment. province of Castellón, will take us along the Ojos Following this route will take us through two of the Negros green way (vía verde), also known as a mine prettiest areas of the Region of Valencia: Alto Palancia railway. At the beginning of the 20th century a railway and the Camp de Morvedre, part of which encroaches was built to join the mines of Ojos Negros in Teruel, into the province of Valencia. Alto Palancia receives its where iron ore was extracted, and the Port of Sagunto. name from the river Palancia, which on many stretches At first the ore was loaded onto the trains and runs parallel to the Ojos Negros green way. Going exported from the port but, from 1923, the iron was down towards Sagunto, on our left is the Serra used to supply Sagunto’s own furnaces at Altos d’Espadà and on the right the Serra Calderona, both Hornos. Construction of the line was started in 1902 classified as nature parks. On the way we will pass and in 1907 the first shipment of ore was delivered. delightful, peaceful villages. It may be said that the The Ojos Negros-Sagunto railway remained in use for Ojos Negros green way is, nowadays, the longest, seventy-five years, except for the period from 1933 to boldest, most adventurous and original route of all the 1940, due to the high level of social and labour unrest green ways in Spain. at that time and the subsequent start of the civil war. Finally, in 1972, the train stopped making the journey and in 2002 the stretch of line between Barracas and From Barracas to Caudiel, through Torres-Torres was opened as a green way, taking tunnels and over viaducts, advantage of the way the original engineers at the crossing landscapes of particular beginning of the last century had respectfully beauty We start our route in Barracas, although given the Barracas 40º 1' 3.01" N 0º 41' 53.40" W proximity of the village of El Toro, it would be a good idea to make a visit to this peculiar place and get to know the urban layout, where the traditional architecture is preserved in very good condition. Right in the centre, on the Plaza Mayor, we find the Fuente del Járiz, with two public waterspouts, built at the end of the 18th century with black stone ashlars. Here we can observe the commotion caused by the morning market which contrasts with the peacefulness of the leisurely games of cards or dominoes played by locals, friends and visitors in the bars around the square. Once in Barracas, we will find the start of the green way or vía verde well signposted. This border village between Valencia and Zaragoza is marked by a history of conflict. In the 13th century and again in the 14th century it was the focal point of disputes between Teruel and Jérica as both places wanted it as part of their domains. That is why, throughout its history, it has always been a natural stopover place with many RUTA4y5_42a61.qxp:rutas 29/06/10 7:33 Página 54 Route 5 From Barracas to Sagunto hostelries. Barracas is situated at great altitude, around a the Ragudo pass, negotiating it by means of this series thousand metres above sea level, and on level ground, of tunnels which, with an appreciable gradient, takes which is why this area is known as the Barracas the memory back effortlessly to the speed of the old altiplano [high plain]. steam trains. Between tunnels beautiful views open up We start our route along the green way and all around over the immediate surroundings and across the valley us are extensive fields of cereals which give the plains of the Alto Palancia towards the sea. The tunnels, different hues, depending on the time of year and as perfectly illuminated but retaining an aura of mystery, the grain changes colour during its natural biological are surprisingly cool in summer, as good as the best cycle. Nowadays the giant wind turbines for generating cave. In winter they allow us to escape the inclemency electricity also form part of the landscape. Leaving the of the weather. On the hillside of the Ragudo we find endless straight track leading across the plain of strange formations of temporary pools of water, called Barracas we find ourselves in a mountainous area with a ‘navajos’ or ‘lavajos’, pools of rainwater like the Navajo de cutting for the railway line to pass through. On the Zañón, where small ecosystems are generated with a embankment we can clearly see the geological details rich biodiversity, little studied up to now. On the of the limestone materials: the shape and direction of Cuestas de Ragudo we see forests, mostly stands of the strata, their strength, composition and colour. The Aleppo pine, but also crops of olive and almond trees embankment is an attractive, agreeable and original as we descend. On both sides we see the buildings of stretch of the itinerary, through well conserved old farmhouses that humanize the landscape a little. vegetation of scrubland with Aleppo pine and Holm One of the most well known of these is the Masía del oak. Going gently downhill we come to the station of Ragudo, which not only justified its existence with the Torás Bejís. The station, obviously abandoned, has that exploitation of the surrounding land, but was an air of mystery of places that were inhabited and are important communications link on the road that now in disuse. It could be a good spot to make a stop. historically joined the kingdoms of Aragon and Valencia, There are, as well as the station, other abandoned until the building of the N-234. The horse-drawn houses around. Continuing on our way after a carriages and wagons travelling between Aragon and refreshing break, the green way makes two sharp Valencia had to necessarily pass through the Masía. curves which mark the start of a prolonged descent by Today it is just another agreeable group of buildings way of three tunnels in succession, which pass through what in former times was a famous steep climb, Las Cuestas del Ragudo. These tunnels which we Jérica 39º 54' 22.20" N 0º 34' 5.40" W pass through are the first of seven we will be crossing during our journey, although an eighth exists but it is blocked off. The original infrastructure of the railway from Teruel to Sagunto had fourteen tunnels and thirty- seven viaducts. It is thrilling, as few things in the length and breadth of the Region of Valencia, to be able to go down the natural step of RUTA4y5_42a61.qxp:rutas 29/06/10 7:33 Página 55 54 - 55 that make a pleasant view in surroundings of great agro-ecological value between fields of almond trees surrounded by well preserved stands of Aleppo pines. Close to the green way and linked to the Masía is the Fuente del Ragudo. Its generous rate of flow is used to supply water for irrigating small market gardens and orchards on the Masías de Ragudo, Sordo and Parrela. The waterspout is in beautiful surroundings, among large blackberry bushes, Green way Ojos Negros 40º 0' 31.20" N 0º 41' 47.40" W fields of almond trees, olive groves, and the first orchards of fruit trees under irrigation. According to different experts the physical and chemical water to irrigate the market gardens of Benafer, Caudiel, composition of these waters make them the best Viver and Jérica. quality in the Viver municipal district. This spot is one of It is a delightful spot where we can clearly see the feat those that invite you to make a relaxing stop and in of engineering that the infrastructure of the viaducts summer to bathe in the pool that forms there. Further represents. We continue along the green way and, after on the green way borders along and crosses the Hurón passing through Caudiel station, we enter another ravine, a charming spot with the outstanding presence tunnel. The spectacular vegetation that has covered the of different fruit trees under irrigation, pears and sides of the cutting is especially beautiful. The other cherries, along with the vegetation typical of the edge end of the tunnel comes out at the village of Caudiel, of the ravine, comprising, blackberry bushes, poplars which offers local people and visitors a pleasant urban and reeds. The place is of great botanical and scenic setting. The town, situated on a small hill, is divided into beauty. It is not uncommon to see flocks of sheep, kept two by a small ravine.