Corsica in Autumn

Corsica In Autumn Naturetrek Tour Report 24 September - 1 October 2017 Alpine Chough by Eric Leese Bedriaga's Rock Lizard by David Tattersfield Corte by David Tattersfield Corsican Crossbill by Eric Leese Report by David Tattersfield Images by David Tattersfield and Eric Leese Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Corsica In Autumn Tour participants: David Tattersfield (tour leader) with five Naturetrek clients Summary With a small group, everyone’s interests and expectations could easily be catered for. These ranged from the special birds of the island and the insects, to the more general natural history and landscape and the chance of a break from day to day life. We had a great week of good weather, delicious food and good companionship in this unique island. Day 1 Sunday 24th September We arrived at Bastia airport at 3.15pm. and, after loading our minibus, set off across the island towards our hotel in Evisa. We made a stop to see the delightful model village at Pont Nuovo and at Ponte Leccia, to see the Genoese bridge that spans the Golu river. There was much evidence of the severe floods, which had occurred two years previously. We continued south to Francardo and then turned westwards towards the mountains. The narrow twisting road took us through the dramatic Santa Regina Gorge, below imposing granite scenery and onwards into the vast area of pine forest that clothes the mountains. It was cloudy at the top of the pass, where we scanned the juniper-clad slopes, around the car-park for Corsican Finch. We were unsuccessful and continued down to our hotel, where we arrived, just after 7.00pm. We enjoyed a delicious wild boar stew, before retiring to bed. Day 2 Monday 25th September Those of us who went out for a pre-breakfast walk were fortunate to see Corsican Finch, Cirl Bunting and brief views of Corsican Nuthatch, only a short distance from the hotel. After breakfast, we drove a short distance up into cool air of the Foret d’Aitone, where we were surrounded by the tall straight trunks of Corcican Pine Pinus nigra subsp. laricio and an understorey of Tree Heather, Erica arborea and Holly Ilex aquifolium. Conspicuous on the ground, were Corsican Hellebore Helleborus lividus subsp. corsicus, Wood Spurge Euphorbia amygdaloides and the occasional flowers of Cyclamen hederifolium. Birds were few, with the occasional Great Spotted Woodpecker and Goldcrest, calling from the treetops. We walked to the ruins of a chestnut mill by the river, where we found Willow Gentian Gentiana asclepiadea, Corsican Leopard’s Bane Doronicum corsicum, and curtains of Corsican Bog Asphodel Narthecium reverchonii, on the wet rocks. In another, wetter, area of forest there were large stands of Willow Gentian and a carpet of the tiny, strong-smelling Corsican Mint Mentha requienii. Exposed granite forms a unique habitat and it was here we encountered two of the island’s endemic lizards, the common Tyrrhenian Wall Lizard and the larger Bedriaga’s Rock Lizard. We were very fortunate to have very good views of a flock of Corsican Crossbill, in the nearby Pine trees. We moved on to the Col de Sevi, at 1101 metres, for lunch, where the local pigs provided somewhat annoying entertainment. A few pink flowers of Colchicum neapolitanum pushed through the disturbed ground, on the nearby hillside. After lunch, we continued down to the coast at the Liamone estuary, beyond Sagone. There was little activity, apart from the Italian Pool Frogs, which leapt into the water at our approach and bright-green Italian Wall Lizards. However, there were plenty of insects, including Clouded Yellow, Small Copper, Lang’s Short- tailed Blue, Common Blue, Brown Argus and Southern Grayling, among the butterflies and Southern Hawker © Naturetrek March 18 1 Corsica In Autumn Tour Report and Red-veined Darter. Down on the beach, most people went for a swim or a paddle, while a few explored the area of scrub behind the du nes, where there were flocks of Sparrows, Linnets and Goldfinch and a few Stonechats. Grasshoppers were common; mostly Red-winged or Blue-winged and the occasional Nosed Grasshopper. On the way back to Evisa, we stopped to watch many Red Kites and Ravens flying over a large landfill site. Day 3 Tuesday 26th September We saw Corsican Finch again before breakfast, near the hotel. After breakfast and shopping, we drove down the long and winding road to the foot of the Spelunca Gorge. We followed the footpath, through the tall maquis, above the river, as far as the elegant Zaglia Bridge, that spans a tributary. Before the road was built, this ancient mule trail provided a vital link, between Evisa and the harbour in Porto. We had lunch, in this picturesque spot, among the rounded granite boulders by the river. The yellow Stink Aster Dittrichia viscosa is the most conspicuous plant in Corsica, at this time of year, and attracted a few late-season butterflies, including Clouded Yellow, Holly Blue, and Cardinal. We returned the way we had come, hearing Firecrest and glimpsing Dipper on the river. After driving up to Ota, we spent a relaxing time over refreshments. Crag Martins and House Martins zoomed around, overhead, Ravens croaked and a pair of Common Buzzards circled the valley. In the orchards below we watched the comings and goings of Blackbirds, Sparrows, Tits and Jays. We continued down to Porto and then a little way south to the Calanche de Piana. Here the pink granite cliffs and pinnacles have been eroded into fantastic shapes, that look their best in the late-afternoon sun. The delicate blooms of the endemic Pink Snowflake Acis rosea made a lovely show, this year, and drifts of pink Cyclamen hederifolium lined the shady roadside verges. A young Western Whip Snake was found among the leaves. We walked along the road for some distance to admire the scenery, before returning to Evisa. Day 4 Wednesday 27th September After packing, we left Evisa and drove up to the Col de Vergio. We were just above the tree-line in a wild open landscape with stunted trees and a carpet of Juniper and the low-growing spiny Broom Genista salzmannii var. lobelioides. We walked up a track to the top of the rather dilapidated ski tows, giving extensive views in all directions. Among the Junipers were the glowing red berries of Berberis aetnensis and the shiny, red hips of Rosa serafinii. Birds were disappointingly few and we only recorded Coal Tit. Down the eastern side of the pass, we descended a long way through the forest. We stopped by a damp ditch, where there were a few plants of the insectivorous Corsican Butterwort Pinguicula corsica and the brilliant red foliage of Norway Maple Acer platanoides, in the forest. By a stroke of luck, the distinctive call of Corsican Nuthatch could be heard, high in the Pine trees and we had some good views. Further on, where the forest gave way to rough pasture, butterflies were flitting around the scrub and included Cardinal, Queen of Spain Fritillary, Corsican Wall Brown, Small Heath and Southern Grayling. The owner of a cafe in Calacuccia was happy to allow us the use of his outdoor tables for lunch, in exchange for purchases of drinks, and the village proved to be another interesting stop for the butterflies. We continued down the Santa Regina Gorge, where we did a short road walk and then after leaving the mountains behind we explored an area of maquis, close to the railway. Autumn Lady’s-tresses took a little finding but were still in bud, 2 © Naturetrek March 18 Corsica In Autumn Tour Report and a Sardinian Warbler put in a very brief appearance. We spent an hour or so exploring Corte and enjoying the views from the Citadel before checking in at our hotel, ideally situated by the river. Day 5 Thursday 28th September Leaving at 9.00am, we drove south and stopped in Venaco for shopping. In the village, a sheltered and sunny gully was a magnet for butterflies and we saw Red Admiral, Southern White Admiral, Southern Speckled Wood, Queen of Spain and Silver-washed Fritillary, among others. A short distance south we reached Gustav Eiffel’s dramatic railway bridge, spanning the Verghello Valley, alongside the elegant modern road bridge. Crag Martins flew around under the bridge and along the quiet road were many Corsican Wall Brown and Southern Grayling. At the end of the road, we had a short walk in the forest and enjoyed magnificent mountain views over lunch. Calls of Nuthatch could be heard and one came down to the ground, busily extracting seeds from a fallen Pine cone, just metres away and seemingly unconcerned by our presence. This was real bird-watching! We continued south through Vivario and up to the top of the pass, where we made a short walk into the magnificent Beech forest. Most of the trees have multiple trunks, clear evidence of coppicing in the past. We followed this with a walk down to the Cascades des Anglais, where mixed open forest contained an abundance of Cyclamen hederifolium, growing among the boulders. The stream was all but dry, this year, with a few trout swimming lazily in the clear water. We finished off the afternoon with drinks at the railway station in Vizzavona, the highest on Corsica’s unique railway and were back at our hotel at 6.00pm. Before and during dinner, we watched the nightly antics of Moorish Gecko, on the hotel walls and, as in Evisa, there was an interesting selection of moths, attracted to the lights.

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