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Home , Aqueduct of Diocletian, Brela, Croatian Maritime Museum, Dugopolje, Fortress of Klis, Kamerlengo Castle

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Split/Central Travel Guide Activities/Destinations/Events Photo: Archive Tourist Board Split, by Ante Verzotti Ante by Board Split, Tourist Archive Photo:

with support from the Tourist Board of Split YOUR BEST MEMORIES START WITH US

Discover on holiday with Welcome to Split!

“Croatia’s Leading Car Rental” -2017 I am pleased to welcome you to our beautiful city by the sea. Continuously occupied for more than 1,700 years, Split is a World Travel Awards Winner living city, a city where tourists and citizens alike can enjoy the sea, the sun, music, art, history, wonderful gastronomy and so much more! DiscoverSplit’s Travel Guide to Split-Central Dalmatia Activities/ Destinations/Events is just one of the ways we help new visitors enjoy the Split experience. If you need more information about our city, the official tourist offices on the Peristil square and on the waterfront Riva are staffed with multi-lingual professionals who can help you with everything from where the closest laundromat is to finding a dentist! We are glad you are here..... enjoy your stay!

Alijana Vukšić / Director, Tourist Board of Split

FAST ONLINE BOOKING: www.novarentacar.hr +385 72 535 535 AIRPORT AND IN-CITY OFFICES: /Pula/Opatija//Šibenik//Split// Welcome to DiscoverSplit’s Guide ACTIVITIES, DAY TRIPS AND DESTINATIONS FROM SPLIT to Activities/Destinations/Events! Dear Visitor, Adventure/Sports 5 Central Dalmatia and Split, Croatia’s second largest city with Aqueduct tour ...... 6 Art Museum of Split ...... 27 a bit under 200,000 residents, are rapidly becoming one of Biking ...... 7 ’s Palace ...... 28 the “must visit” Mediterranean destinations. There’s so much Canyoning ...... 8 Ethnographic Museum of Split ...... 29 to see and do here—from experiencing 1,700 years of living Canoeing ...... 9 Gripe Fortress ...... 30 history in the Palace of Diocletian to the thrilling Alka Knights Tournament in the inland village of . Diving ...... 10 Jewish Synagogue ...... 31 Fishing ...... 11 Jupiter’s Temple ...... 32 Whether it’s whitewater rafting on the in Omiš, spending Hiking ...... 12 Maritime Museum ...... 33 a day enjoying olives, honey and wine on the island of Šolta or going underground to experience a still-working original Roman Kayaking ...... 13 Marjan Hill and Bene ...... 34 aqueduct, Central Dalmatia and Split are a joy for the senses. Whitewater rafting ...... 14 Meštrović Gallery ...... 35 From a hidden stone village on , a fabulous beach in , Palace squares ...... 36 After dark 16 to a breathtaking restored fortress, the discoveries never end. St. Domnius Cathedral/ For this year’s edition, we have chosen to profile almost 100 What’s happening ...... 17 Diocletian’s Mausoleum ...... 37 different activities, destinations and events in the region. Night Clubs ...... 18 Split Islamic Center and .... 38 Everything is divided into travel-related sections, from Kaštelaart Winery Music Festival .... 19 St. Sava Orthodox ...... 39 Adventure to Wellness. All of the texts are written by people Live Theater ...... 20 Split City Museum ...... 40 who live here and love it and have experienced all of these Croatian National Theatre ...... 21 activities and events. Since it is possible that some information Radunica neighborhood ...... 41 has changed,we have included a website address at the bottom Area Festivals 22 Varoš neighborhood ...... 42 of each activity/destination page so you can check the most up Vidović Gallery ...... 43 There are festivals all over Central to date information. Walking tours ...... 44 Dalmatia all year long. Whether it’s Throughout the Guide you will see a single sponsor for certain activities/destinations. We have personally chosen these a town’s patron saint’s day; a wine/ Day cruises / boat rentals 45 olive/gastronomy event; special agencies to be exclusive sponsors because of their excellent Day Sailing ...... 46 reputation for professional service and quality. If for some music; historic re-enactment; sailing reason, you find otherwise, please write to us! regatta or something else, be check Blue Cave ...... 47 the local town tourist board. Our list The Party Boat ...... 48 Enjoy your time here in Central Dalmatia! includes several dozen of the most Bol Beach and Sunset Cruise ...... 49 The Editors popular annual events. Getting around 50 [email protected] Culture/Historical sites 24 Air/sea/ground transport ...... 51 © 2018 Radionica Ideja, d.o.o. All rights reserved. No part of this Guide may be reproduced, stored or Split city sightseeing ...... 25 Krilo catamarans ...... 52 transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the copyright owner. The publisher cannot assume responsibility for any errors. E mail: [email protected]. Archaeological Museum of Split ..... 26 Taxi’s/transfers ...... 53 ACTIVITIES, DAY TRIPS AND DESTINATIONS FROM SPLIT

Islands 54 Town/City Day Trips 72 Adventure ...... Baška Voda ...... 73 Islands 55 FROM EXPLORING AN AQUEDUCT TO ZIP LINES! Brač ...... 56 Brela ...... 74 ...... 57 ...... 75 Hvar ...... 58 Dubrovnik ...... 76 Jelsa ...... 59 ...... 78 Korčula ...... 60 Kaštela ...... 79 Šolta ...... 61 ...... 80 ...... 63 Knin ...... 81 Makarska ...... 82 National parks 64 Omiš ...... 84 Krka ...... 65 ...... 86 ...... Plitvice ...... 66 Sinj 87 Skradin ...... 88 Split Festivals/Events 67 Šibenik ...... 89 Stobreč ...... 90 St.Domnius Day (Sudjama) ...... 68 Trogir ...... 91 Mediterranean Film Festival ...... 68 nights ...... 68UNESCO World Heritage sites 92 ...... ULTRA Festival 68 Ager plain, Hvar ...... 93 Blues Festival Split ...... 68 Cathedral of St. James, Šibenik ...... 93 64rd Annual Split Summer Festival 68 St. Nicholas fortress, Šibenik ...... 93 Days of Diocletian ...... 68 Diocletian’s Palace ...... 93 Mag Festival of Chamber Music ...... 68 Dubrovnik ...... 93 Split Int. Festival of New Film ...... 68 Plitvice National Park ...... 93 Split-Vis Regatta ...... 68 Trogir’s historic core ...... 93 Advent in Split ...... 68 Zadar’s fortified city walls and gates 93 Shopping 69 Wine/Food/Wellness 94 ...... 70 Indulge yourself ...... 95 Get more ...... 71 Wine tasting ...... 96 5 Aqueduct tour Biking Explore Diocletian’s aqueduct!

A 5 mile long engineering marvel! Even today, parts of the aqueduct Diocletian ordered built 1,700 years ago still work. We’ll suit you up in rubber waders, helmet and headlight and take you almost 20 meters down into With wonderful parks, back scooters. Favorite local rides are this hand-carved alleys and bike-laned waterfront Marjan Hill Park, the big green hill masterpiece that promenades, riding around Split that overlooks the city, which has a less than 100 people is a great way to get some easy beach with changing booths, cafe’s have experienced. exercise and see the sights at your and more at Bene; along the Riva, Maximum group own pace. For those who want ride to the Western Promenade and size is 4. Pick up into the wilderness or explore the then towards Meštrović Gallery from the Tourist region, bike rental agencies here and the beaches below in the Office on the Riva, offer everything from guided small Meje neighborhood. We also like all gear included. group tours, by the hour solo jaunts tooling around the back alleys The adventure lasts to week long adventures. Most in and around the Palace when 2-3 hours, 100E per agencies offer well-maintained top the crowds are gone, and zipping person. name hybrid and mountain bikes. over to Bačvice beach near the You can also rent Segway’s, electric ferry terminal. Island biking is also To book: bikes and even Trikke electric fabulous with lots of marked trails! 091-222-2727 www.meridienten.com

6 7 Canyoning Canoeing

An hour away from Split is the a helmet and neoprene pants and The most popular body of water for 2 or 3, so unless you have a dramatic seaside town of Omiš, shirt. The experience includes to canoe in Dalmatia is the Cetina guide in the same boat, he or she framed with steep hills that loom not just walking through the River in Omiš, about 45 minutes will be in another boat paddling over the city and a deep river river and the rapids, but through from Split. You can paddle a along with you and/or the flotilla. canyon that goes all the way from subterranean tunnels, swimming long way or just an hour or two Expect top-quality professional the interior hinterlands to the sea in natural pools, going around depending on where you put in. agencies to provide you with right in the center of town. The waterfalls and lakes. Want more Lake is also a popular place all the gear you need. Although Cetina River has been flowing extremes? How about hooking up to canoe, swim and picnic. Unlike anyone can be a guide, the best are here for thousands of years and to alpine ropes and descending the more traditional wooden, registered with HGSS (the Croatian with cliffs up to 180 meters high, more than 50 meters from the top canvas or aluminum canoes, the Mountain Rescue Service). And waterfalls, lakes, subterranean of the Gubavica waterfall! You don’t Croatian variety has higher sides make sure that the equipment is tunnels and a 50 meter high need any experience, just the love and is made of lightweight plastic. in great condition. Paddling along, waterfall it’s a real thrill. The best of the outdoors, untouched nature Most outfitters set out around stopping for a swim, listening to outfitters have certified guides and and being with a small group of 9-10AM and finish 4-5 hours later. the sounds of nature, enjoying the their programs include a life-jacket, adrenaline junkies like you! The canoes they use are designed tranquility is pure heaven. www.andadventure.com www.dalmatiaexplorer.com

8 9 Diving Fishing

Photo: Trogir Diving Center

Some of the best diving in Dalmatia diving instructor level. You’ll need With its enormous coastline, more the islands, albacore, amberjack is off the islands of Brač (caves a diving license, around $15, than 1100 islands, almost 100 and mahi-mahi can be caught. and wrecks), Hvar (steep walls, which is valid for one year—most lakes and rivers, fishing has been Locals use a variety of techniques, gorgonia, tunnels), Šolta (wrecks) outfitters include it in the price an integral part of life here for from traps and vertical jigging and Vis, which is the furthest island of their dive package. And you thousands of years. From deep sea to deep rock fishing, trolling and off the Croatian coast. The seabed also need to show that you have fishing for giant tuna, and broadbill spear fishing. Day boats from Split there is littered with WW2 aircraft appropriate diving qualifications swordfish to delicious gray mullet, and other coastal towns normally and steep walls that make for a from an internationally recognized orada, and sea bass to brown and have a boat rate for up to 10 memorable day. Korčula island school. In addition to the terrific speckled trout caught from banks anglers making it very reasonable also has excellent diving, with underwater sea life, there are of the nearby Cetina River, a day for you and your crew to enjoy a more than 30 sites. There are dive plenty of sites with Greek and spent fishing and then grilling your day at sea with dinner included! centers on the mainland up and Roman amphorae and other catch later with some great local Some even have their own cookout down the coast as well. Many offer remains to enjoy—but it’s against wine is Dalmatia at its best. The facilities for you to grill your catch PADI, SSI, UDI and CMAS courses Croatian law to remove them, so most prized sea species are John and enjoy lunch with some wine, from beginners to the professional just take photos! Dory, dentex and sea bream. Around so grab a rod and let’s go fishing! www.baracudabooking.com www.baracudabooking.com

10 11 Hiking Kayaking

Central Dalmatia is a paradise for walk to Dragon Cave in Murvica Kayaking is becoming more and Central Dalmatia you can kayak on hikers! Whether it’s enjoying an is fun or for a rugged trek, go to more popular all over the planet the sea, lakes or rivers. From Split, easy ramble up and round Marjan Vidova Gora peak, 780 meters because its perfect for couples you can be kayaking in 15 minutes Hill, the big green peninsula above sea level. Next, take the and being able to get really close on one of the many day trips from overlooking the city; majestic catamaran to Hvar town, along the to shore, just drift, relax, slip over Bene at the end of Marjan Hill. We Nature park in Makarska nearby coastline is a well marked the side for a swim, makes for a love the terrific inland Lake Vrlika (the second highest mountain small trail to the hidden village of wonderful day of soft adventure. day program--gorgeous scenery, range in Croatia with 16 peaks Malo Grablje, For an amazing view, You don’t need experience and easy paddling on a pristine lake and above 1,400 meters) or island take the trek to the islands highest it’s fun whether you are 12 or 85. trekking, we have it all! Let’s start peak Sveti Nikola. There are a lot Modern kayaks are remarkably a lunch prepared shoreside with with the islands. It’s just a 45 of outfitters and routes from easy to tough, but lightweight and easy to fresh local delicacies and wine! minute ferry trip to nearby Šolta. rugged to choose from. Some even paddle. And since you are sitting on Great river kayaking is waiting at Lots of charming village towns, we offer 3-5-7 day hikes with guides the waterline, they’re much more the Cetina, which offers both easy like the walk from Gornje Selo to and excursions as well as hiking stable than a canoe and easier to and extreme kayaking. Hvar island Stomorska. On Brač, the leisurely cruises that include lots of islands! steer, turn and navigate. Here in kayaking is amaaazing! www.andadventure.com/activities/hiking-croatia www.andadventure.com

12 13 Whitewater rafting WET AND WILD!

Photo: raftingomis.com We’ve mentioned the Cetina River so while there’s enough spray and a number of times in the Guide action to get your attention, it’s not Our staff is licensed by the International Rafting Federation as well and one reason it’s such a favored dangerous. The trip down river also as the Croatian Mountain Rescue Service, with a decade of experience destination of adventure-seekers has numerous pools with enough leading thousands of first-time rafters. You and seven other rafters is because it offers so many varied calm water for you to enjoy a swim. will have a fabulous time on the Cetina as we navigate 9.5 kilometers experiences. With a deep canyon Most rafts hold 8 people plus the of numerous rapids, quiet water, and lush river vegetation with a carved out over thousands of guide—so if you can put together stop next to the Studenci waterfall for a short break to swim and years, the Cetina flows strong and your own group of 8, you’ll have relax. Four hours of terrific fun! We supply helmets and safety vests. steady from the hinterland behind even more of a blast. Don’t worry All you need is the spirit of adventure, a swimming suit, shirt, towel, the Dinaran mountains all the way about safety gear, you’ll be given sandals and a set of dry clothes and shoes for later. down to the sea. For most people, helmets, life jackets, etc. Most trips the term whitewater means scary. end at Radman’s Mills, an ancient Yes, we can pick you up in Split. Private groups welcome! Not to worry. Rapids are rated flour mill now fully restored as a 1-5 and the stretch of river used lunch/picnic area where you can BOOK NOW! +385 98 567 675 by most outfitters here is 2 to 3, grab some chow. www.raftingomis.com www.raftingomis.com

14 15 Photo by Ante Verzotti, used by permission of the photographer and the Tourist Board of Split. What’s happening

Split has year round music, Aug. 31 there’s even outdoor movies performing arts, specialty events at Bačvice beach. In and around the and more to satisfy any night owl. palace there are all sorts of bars and The pub crawl scene here is very cafe’s, some with live music, that active with drinks, club admission draw mostly locals, so definitely and even breakfast as part of the check them out. Many bars, experience. They all start around 9 clubs and cafe’s now offer a good and many keep going until the next selection of locally and regionally morning. Great way to meet singles made brews. Also be sure to local After dark from around the world who want to rakija (rah-key-ah), high octane party in a group. With several malls, herb/nut/fruit infused hooch. The FROM PUB CRAWLS TO WORLD CLASS BALLET! cinema here is a perfect way to cool night club scene runs from glitzy off watching the latest release in to come as you are, but be sure to English with Dolby sound, stadium check to see when the clubs are seating and lots of snacks. June 21- open--some just do weekends. www.visitsplit.com has all the events 16 17 Night Clubs July 5th and 6th only KAŠTELAART WINERY MUSIC FESTIVAL sunset dinner, exquisite wine, live classical music, world-famous artists--at a 300 year-old winery overlooking the sea!

Evgenia Ephstein Leoš Čepicky Photo: dalmatinskiportal.hr

Most of the top venue clubs are music definitely turned up to high, within walking distance of the the real action at Bačvice doesn’t old town, and some are on the even start until past midnight. This pub crawl route. Some feature is party-hearty territory—you can local, regional and international even go night swimming under the stars with gorgeous girls (Split lights! To let locals and folks like is famous for having beautiful you know what’s going on, the most women—and they know it!) and popular clubs have wall posters all handsome men all dressed up over town announcing their talent. Orfeo Mandozzi Panta Veličković and ready to dance—so be sure With so many international visitors, to check the dress code. The clubs the club vibe here is cool, and around Bačvice beach are a whole confident rather than let’s get it on. Price per couple: 350€ / Individual tickets: 185€ different animal and unlike some So don’t rush it, but don’t be shy, Only 40 tickets per day are available of the intown clubs are all open you’re on vacation so get to know every day. With the heat and the everyone and enjoy yourself. Includes: transportation by private vans from Split Direct online booking! www.facebook.com/pg/tropic.club.split www.winetourcroatia.com 18 19 Live Theater Croatian National Theatre

Pirandello’s Six Characters in Search of an Author / Photo: HNK Split the gorgeous interior of Split’s National Theatre. / Photo DT Croatia

Split is blessed with year-round the story line and action are quite One of the cultural treasures of the Throughout various lobbies there live theatre and performing arts. understandable so whether you city is the splendid HNK Croatian are wonderful sculptures of famous The Croatian National Theatre, are a kid at heart or have kids, it’s National Theatre building at the theatre people from Split, some of a glorious turn of the century well worth experiencing. There end of Marmontova. The foundation whom went on to international Italianate building at the end are experimental and traditional stone was laid on April 4th, 1891. fame. A jewel box foyer for intimate of Marmontova street is the theatre performances at various Just two years later, it was finished. recitals is part of the complex as is main venue for ballet, plays, smaller venues just outside of the The lavish interiors, including a vast enclave of offices, wardrobe opera, concerts and special gala center—check the web address gorgeous painted ceilings and and gymnasia for actors, dancers, performances. Split’s Puppet below for latest listings. Every plaster work, were done by singers to train. This year, if you Theatre, just before the National July and August it’s the Split Italian masters. The horseshoe have 30 minutes, enjoy a behind Theatre, has a beautiful performance Summer Festival, a feast of local, shaped seating area has stunning the scenes look at this splendid space and does a complete season regional and international events, balconies and loges offering building for just 50 kn pp! To of highly professional work many open air, like the fabulous terrific sight lines to the vast stage reserve a National Theatre tour call featuring masterful puppeteering. performance of Verdi’s Aida in the that hosts full-scale opera, theatre, +385 91 222 2727 (the minimum is Although the plays are in Croatian, Peristil. ballet and other performances. 2 people). www.visitsplit.com www.visitsplit.com 20 21 Area festivals May of war with 150+ boats between May Day—an annual town Brač and Šolta celebration all over Central Dalmatia The Battle for Klis—a high-energy Hand Fair, Trogir--crafts, food, fun nightime re-enactment between the Bull fghting Bikijada in Radošić— (our guys) and the Turks real bullfghting in a forest Kaštela Broad Bean Festival, Kastel August Kambelovac—oh what you can Split Beach Festival, Bačvice-- do with beans! A marvelous local international DJ’s, house music and gastronomy event with food, music more on the beach The Feast of St.Prosper, Hvar— the Klis Day August, 16th. Also the town co-patron saint--food,wine, fun festival of St. Roch, with a procession June through the village. Food and fun DokuMa, Makarska--international Moondance, Trogir—techno festival documentary flm festival. held inside the 15thC fortress Festival of Dalmatian Klapa, Omiš- Annual Pirate Battle, Omiš—ships, -Croatia’s most important singing gunpowder, sabers, at the harbor. contest. www.fdk.hr Makarska Jazz Festival, Makarska— Ethnoambient, --unusual live enjoy international jazz artists music from around the world 303nd Annual Alka Tournament, Lavender Festival, Hvar island—the Sinj—every year since 1715! Dressed annual island harvest event in authentic period clothing, Sinj Biser Mora, Braš island—an knights on horseback race full tilt to international culinary festival with spear the alka. One of Croatia’s must invited chefs from around the world experience events, Sunday Aug. 5 Supetar Town Day, Brač--the Fair of Voi’Sa Festival, Brač island—live St.Peter and Paul. music on Supetar’s beach from dub July to funk Delmatae vs. Romans, Sinj--Emperor September Diocletian, surrounded by guards Goulash Disco Festival, Vis island—a and soldiers, bandsmen, a referee crowdfunded, world music and players. celebration in Komiža. Kastelaart Festival—July 5/6 sunset Nativity of the Virgin Mary, Solin--A Area Festivals dinner, live classical music, wine rich, religious, cultural entertainment tasting at a 300 year old winery! program together with a sports www.winetourcroatia.com program and a traditional fair. FROM BULL FIGHTING TO PIRACY ON THE HIGH SEAS! Annual Graffti Festival, Brač island-- The Festival of St. Mihovil, Gradac— graffti writers, designers, skaters and The patron saint’s day, with Mass musicians from all over the region. in the morning followed by a The Pulling of Mrdjula Island—a tug procession and evening festival www.dalmatia.hr/en/event-calendar 22 23 Photo: Jarle Nystuen Split city sightseeing

Photo by Ante Verzotti, used by permission of the photographer and the Tourist Board of Split.

What brings most visitors to Split is of the oldest Jewish cemeteries are Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO World up here too. You can do all of this Heritage site. Unlike most Roman- by foot, rent a scooter or bike. The era sites in this part of the world, it’s world-famous Meštrović Gallery not some restored “look but don’t is a 15 minute walk from the end touch“ museum experience--it’s truly of the waterfront Riva. The oldest Culture/Historical living history, continuously occupied neighborhoods that frame the for 1,700 years! Within the Palace palace, Varoš and Radunica, are there are a number of museums that lined with stone houses, stone sites in Split chronicle the city’s history, culture streets and winding back alleys that and traditions. The wonderful green make for a charming several hours EXPERIENCE 1,700 YEARS OF LIVING HISTORY! hill overlooking the harbor, Marjan, exploring where locals actually live is a beautiful park where you can and play—and practically no cars to walk, cycle, swim (at Bene) and even worry about as you check out the kayak. Ancient hermitages and one scene. www.visitsplit.com

24 25 Archeaological Museum of Split Art Museum of Split

Photo Carole Raddato

Split’s Archaeological Museum designed building, the fascination We really love the city’s Art from the ‘60s to present day— is the oldest museum in Croatia, begins as you enter the portico Museum here (in Croatian it’s installations, video, multi-media as founded almost 200 years ago in which is lined with ancient stone called Galerija umjetnina). well as painting and sculpture. Up 1820. Despite being located in such sculptures and epitaphs. Inside Celebrating its 87th anniversary one flight, the exhibition spans the a small city, the museum enjoys an you’ll find an intriguing collection in 2018, it took on a whole new centuries with carefully chosen international reputation. Its long from prehistoric times to the life when it moved into the former work from the 14th century to time director, the father of Croatian city hospital, which was beautifully the ‘60s. The works by Croatian Greek, Roman, early Christian and archeology, Frane Bulić, created renovated to also include a cafe masters like Bukovac, Celestin, early Medieval periods. The star the First lnternational Congress and courtyard (take a left at the Vidović, Dešković, Medović and of Early Christian Archaeology in attraction? More than 6,000 stone famous Meštrović statue of Grgur others are stunning—you won’t 1894, which brought the city and relics from Salona, the capital of of Nin, and walk until you see the forget them. On the ground the museum worldwide acclaim the in Dalmatia, flags and museum building on your floor there’s a really nice outdoor (for almost 140 years has been present day Solin, less than 10km right). The ground floor is devoted terrace cafe that serves wine too publishing its own scholarly away. The Museum is an easy walk to the contemporary, with both and inside on the same floor be journal). A handsome Viennese- from the center. Closed Mondays. permanent and special exhibits sure to stop at the gift shop. www.armus.hr www.galum.hr/en/exhibitions/ 26 27 Diocletian’s Palace Ethnographic Museum of Split

Photo by Ante Verzotti, used by permission of the photographer and the Tourist Board of Split. photo: Anastasia Kardynova

The heart and soul of Split is the here for 400 years and built their Like its Archaeological Museum, outside wall still has defensive 1,700 year old Palace of Diocletian, own grand residences) gorgeous Split’s Ethnographic Museum ramparts from the 15thC. On emperor of from 284- arched entrances and wonderful is the first of its kind in Croatia. display inside are wonderful 305AD. One of only four Roman partially excavated sub-structure, This year, on the 3rd of July, the examples of characteristic island emperors ever to abdicate, at the this is living history. Continuously museum will celebrate its 108th and coastal life in Dalmatia. Enjoy then ancient age of 60, he ordered occupied for more than 1,700 years, anniversary! The building itself typical costumes of the region (the a walled fortress to be built as his today there are as many people has a fascinating history. Located embroidery is stunning), furniture, retirement home on a south-facing living inside these walls as there in the southern residential quarter jewelry, handicrafts, knitting, sea cove less than 10km from were during the emperor’s time. of Diocletian’s palace, it not only pottery and even weaponry. his imperial residence in Salona, With a private guide, group tour or includes original 4thC remains While the focus is on this part of the Roman capital in Dalmatia, using the map inside DiscoverSplit, (which some feel could have been the world, there are also many present day Solin. With its classic experiencing the Palace is one of the Emperor’s bedrooms), items from other parts of Croatia, central, colonnaded Peristil, unforgettable. In season at 12 but one of the oldest churches and Herzegovina, Serbia, marble streets, palaces within noon, don’t miss the full costume in Split, the church of St. Andrew Macedonia, Kosovo and Europe. the palace (the Venetians ruled Emperor’s welcome (above photo)! de Fenestris from the 7thC. The Closed Monday. www.visitsplit.com/en/448/diocletian-palace www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr/ (Croatian only) 28 29 Gripe Fortress Jewish Synagogue

Photo: Slobodna Dalmacija Photo: Total Croatia News

A ten minute walk east of the Green captured the fort, holding it for Evidence of Jewish life in Dalmatia 1728. After the Holocaust, there Market at Gripe, a natural hill that just a single day until they were goes back more than 2,000 years. were only 100 Jews left here, but overlooks the historic city core and repelled. To prevent Turkish cannon In Split, Jews not only played a their volunteer spirit has kept harbor, the Venetians, who ruled fire from crashing through its stone pivotal role in the development the synagogue alive with weekly Dalmatia for 400 years, built a walls, the fortress was designed of the city as a port, but also Friday shabat and holiday events. fortress to protect the city against with massively-thick earthworks in defended the West tower of the The sanctuary itself is upstairs and the Ottoman Turks. Although a between the walls. Under Palace against the Ottomans in still has its Torah facing Jerusalem major portion was built in less control for centuries, in 1995 it the 16thC. Now more than 500 in a nitch carved directly into the than a year, the entire project took was turned over to the city of Split. years old, Split’s synagogue is the west wall of the Palace. Open from 1647 to 1682. Gripe played Today it’s the only fortress in Split third oldest in Europe. Still in its mornings and early afternoons, just a critical role in the seemingly that has been completely restored original location, it was created in ring the bell for a free tour. As you endless war against the Turks and now is the fascinating home the 16thC by converting the second leave the sanctuary, there’s a small during this period. Time and again of the floor of two attached medieval box for donations to help keep the the Turks made repeated attempts complete with a courtyard drydock! houses in the then Jewish ghetto. synagogue in repair. Yours will be to siege the city and actually (see page 33) Its current appearance dates from much appreciated. http://www.hpms.hr/gripe-fortress.html www.zost.hr/selected.php?id=1&jezik=EN 30 31 Jupiter’s Temple Maritime Museum

​Photo: Wikimedia

Diocletian was the last Roman from Egypt. The gorgeous intact Overlooking the harbor since the boats on the east Adriatic coast. emperor to declare himself divine, barrel vaulted ceiling still has some 17thC, the Gripe Fortress, the city’s From pre-history to modern times, proclaiming that he be worshiped of its spooky faces and the lacy only fully-preserved fort, is the each floor is a treasure-trove of as the son of Jupiter, the god of sky doorway carvings and those figures home of the Croatian Maritime models, figureheads, ships engines, and thunder, the king of all Roman just under the entrance portal are Museum. Its rich and extensive instruments, anchors, artwork, deities. To honor his father, he fabulous. Converted to a baptistry historic collections include marine torpedoes (invented by a Croat!) ordered a monumental temple to in the medieval era, the figure of archaeological finds and artifacts and even a rare pithos, a huge be built opposite his mausoleum. Croatian king Petar Krešimir IV, from Brodosplit Museum, situated ceramic container used to store Today Jupiter’s Temple is still on the front panel as you enter, in Split’s shipyard, as well as other live fish, from the 1st/2nd C! It’s imposing, but jammed at the end is the first stone sculpture of any maritime museums. The wonders the perfect place for anyone who of a dark alley imagine what a European king! The imposing begin as soon as you enter the loves the sea and anything nautical spectacular sight it must have been statue of John the Baptist in the rear courtyard “drydock” of the ships to spend a couple of cool hours in in 300AD, set on its own handsome of the Temple is by Ivan Meštrović, ‘Bakar’ and ‘Perina’, a traditional the summer. Open 9-20, but unlike square, flanked with columns, palm Croatia’s most famous artist whose Dalmatian ‘gajeta’ built in 1857, many other Split museums, open trees and a sphinx--booty taken gallery is also here. one of the oldest surviving fishing Mon.-Sat. The kids will love it too! www.visitsplit.com/en/526/temple-of-jupiter www.hpms.hr/about-museum.html 32 33 Marjan Hill and Bene Meštrović gallery

Whether you arrive by cruise ship cemeteries in Europe (the cemetery Ivan Meštrović (1883-1962) is Nazi puppet government here, or car, the magnificent green hill is usually open, but if not just ask for considered the greatest of all Pius X11 helped him get to on a peninsula looming high over the key inside the cafe/restaurant Croatian artists. Just a 15 minute Switzerland. Later he immigrated the west coast of Split’s waterfront in front). Marjan’s tallest point, walk from the end of the waterfront to the US and taught at Syracuse is hard to miss. Locals call Marjan Telegrin, rises 178m above the city. Riva is his house, atelier, sculpture and Notre Dame. In 1954, President and its park within, the “lungs of But from even lower, the views of garden and private kaštelet Eisenhower personally presided the city “ not only because its dense, the entire city, surrounding islands (chapel), that overlook the sea and over the ceremony granting him Mediterranean forest is green all and nearby mountains are stunning. contain some of his most important American citizenship. After your year but also it’s the perfect place At the end of the peninsula is Bene, pieces in marble, bronze and wood. to run, hike, walk, bike and even with tennis courts, cafe’s, a shady In his will, he bequeathed these visit, enjoy a glass of wine in the swim. All this nature is so close to beach and places to picnic. Take homes, his Zagreb studio and garden cafe to your right, just the old town, plus with a little uphill the Bene bus from the end of the home and a chapel in Otavice before the steps down to the street. walking, you’ll be able to visit some Riva, or walk up through Varoš on to the Croatian people, together And don’t forget to visit his kaštelet, fascinating ancient hermitages as Senjska St., the first street to the with the majority of his sculpture. a five minute walk, for an entirely well as one of the oldest Jewish right of Sv. Frane church. Arrested during WW2 by the different experience! www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marjan www.mestrovic.hr 34 35 Palace squares St. Domnius Cathedral/ Diocletian’s Mausoleum

Photo: softcom2017

It’s remarkable that the Palace appeared. In the northeast area of Built around 305AD by the Emperor result is sumptuous. Just look at has any squares at all. Afraid to the Palace there are two squares, Diocletian as his mausoleum, St. the symmetry of the red granite venture outside the safety of its Carrarina Poljana and Poljana Domnius Cathedral, (affectionately columns; those ornate capitals; walls, people simply built their Grgura Ninskog, named after the called Duje cathedral by locals) the ceiling frieze under the houses inside--eventually using Bishop of Nin, whose statue is at is the world’s oldest Catholic largest, still-intact unsupported pieces of the Palace itself and the North gate. Just outside the cathedral still in use today, in from Roman times; the turning many of its once wide West gate is the city’s best known the same building where it was octagonal exterior yielding to a and glorious Roman streets into square, Narodni Trg, or the People’s founded. Although Diocletian circular interior; the choir stalls a narrow warren. The heart of the square, where Split’s early City persecuted many believers (the in the annex and much more. The Palace thankfully remains as it Hall, now a museum, still stands. sarcophagi of the martyrs St. belltower, which took 200 years was—the Peristil, not a meeting The other famous square is just Domnius and St. Anastasius are to build, was added in the 13thC. place but a religious area where off the Riva, Voćni Trg, or Fruit Sq., inside), Split’s Christians decided Don’t miss the upstairs Treasury, people who lived and worked which is named for its former life not to destroy his mausoleum, and as you leave, the magnificent in the Palace could come to see as the home of the city’s fruit and but transform its extraordinary wooden doors by Buvina, which and worship Diocletian when he vegetable sellers. interior into a cathedral. The were carved in 1214. www.visitsplit.com www.visitsplit.com/en/527/cathedral-of-saint-domnius 36 37 Split Islamic Center and Mosque St. Sava Orthodox Church

Like the Jewish Synagogue, programs. Most Muslims here St. Sava’s is a fascinating off- sanctuary, and the remains of just a 5 minute walk away, the are originally from Bosnia and the-beaten track experience-- some of the convent’s original Islamic Center for Split’s Muslim Albania and arrived in the 19th an unfinished metaphor for the arches. Push back the window community is also in the Palace. and 20thC. They represent just 1% always uneasy centuries-old curtains in the sanctuary to see In addition to being a community of the population--95% of which is relationship between Catholics the stunning carved portals and center for Muslims living here, Catholic. The Muslim population and Orthodox Christians. Just the friezes of the church, which there is also a mosque which was behind the Fish Market, next to seem as ancient as the religion is very spread out—Zagreb. Pula created inside of an Archiepiscopal Kruščić, the city’s best artisan itself. Waiting silently are cut in Istria, and far away in Osijek are Seminary from the 1700’s that bakery, behind a high, non- slabs of stone all around the was no longer used. Five times where most live and work. If you descript wall is a monumental basilica-like structure to be put in each day, as is custom, the mosque would like the visit the mosque 80 year old church built in a place once the dome is erected. opens for prayers. A local imam or the community center, you are courtyard behind a former 14thC The church is now looking to raise and his family live in Split and very welcome. Just give a call to convent waiting to be finished. necessary funds to complete their are a frequent presence at both +385- 21 360 651 Their email is: Open until noon, just walk in and dream of having their own church Jewish and Christian ecumenical [email protected] up the stairs to see the temporary in Split “within 2 or 3 years”. www.medzlis-split.org www.viewfromtheriva.wordpress.com/2009/12/30/ 38 39 Split City Museum Radunica neighborhood

Photo: Slobodna Dalmacija

One of the great treasures here, and more, it’s 1,700 years of life Not many tourists venture into an ancient Illyrian word for water the City Museum, just a few in Split come alive. At one time Split’s city neighborhoods—those spring (radun), it was first settled minutes walk from the central the Renaissance salon of the city’s who do normally go to Varoš, at 500 years ago by people fleeing Peristil, occupies the entire grand most celebrated writers, painters the end of the Riva since it has the the Turkish invasion from the Omiš Gothic-Renaissance palace of the and intellectuals, the palace didn’t most direct walking street up to hinterland. Although it’s becoming Split noble family Papalić. From become an official museum until Marjan Hill. But Radunica is still more gentrified, there are still its wonderful open courtyard, with 1946. Since then the collection well worth enjoying—it begins plenty of kids on bikes, moms a beautiful period staircase and has been greatly expanded just opposite the Green Market. hanging wash, people getting their relics from different epochs of and today the museum has an Cross the street, go left, take your hair cut, etc. to keep it a cohesive Split’s illustrious past; a fascinating extensive library, and sponsors first right at the hanging green neighborhood. The last week in ground floor display of an original many events and activities. Its cross (pharmacy) sign and up a June the whole place turns into marble 4th/5thC Roman dining ground floor exhibit space is a short staircase to a wide stone a street fair because it’s the Days table and model of the Peristil; year-round showcase for local street lined with old houses and of Radunica—food, games, singing elegant upstairs drawing rooms artists, so be sure to see what’s alleyways that winds its way uphill and more and yes, you don’t need filled with memorabilia, furniture going on and enjoy. for a good 20 minutes. Named after to live here to be welcomed. www.mgst.net/povijest-muzeja www.visitsplit.com/en/510/radunica 40 41 Varoš neighborhood Vidović Gallery

Also called Old or Veli Varoš, Mikula) up here are really wonderful. Emanuel Božidar Vidović (1870– churches, was more expressionist this is where Split’s citizens first Keep walking until you are high ​up​ 1953), is Split’s most celebrated and darker, with bright accents. His ventured out of the Palace in the over ​the​​ ​beautiful red tile ​Varos post-Impressionist painter and studio work focused on still life and 11thC to create the city’s first real graphic artist. A contemporary of rooftops and ​then ​take​ ​the staircase interiors. In 1942 and again a year neighborhood. The best way to sculptor Ivan Meštrović, together to your left to the ​​city’s most famous before he died, he was elected to experience it is to walk to the end overlook—Prva Vidilica. There’s a they founded the Medulić Society, of the Riva where Sv. Frane Church is a turn of the century group of participate in the important Venice cafe here to relax. Behind it is the (with the clock in the tower) and take influential secessionist artists who Biennale. Administered by the 500 year old Jewish cemetery and up the first street to your right, Senska, embraced a new national artistic the stone paths to the left, ancient Split City Museum, which also is and keep walking. Have you ever style to promote independence responsible for the Substructures seen so much marvelous stone!? Christian hermitages and churches. from Austria-Hungary. Vidović’s of Diocletian’s Palace, the Vidović From lovingly restored restaurants On the way back down, take some early work was more art nouveau, to untouched ancient dwellings, the side streets, you won’t get lost—at inspired by South Slavic history Gallery was opened in 1986 in a streets, alleys, churches (the best the bottom of your trek is where you and legends. His later work, renovated building next to the known is the 11thC Church of St. began—the Riva and the sea! landscapes and interiors of local East, or Silver Gate of the Palace. www.visitsplit.com/en/519/veli-varos www.galerija-vidovic.com 42 43 Walking tours

Photo: www.atlas-croatia.com

The best way to experience the if the tour includes admission to Palace is with a walking tour. St. Domnius Cathedral and Jupiter’s For a self-guided tour, you can Temple. It’s a really a must to see use the full-size map inside free the interiors of these gorgeous copies of DiscoverSplit to start—it 4thC Roman buildings (a ticket is is the most complete Palace map. under $5). Most tours take around Historic buildings, palaces and 2 hours. Be sure to walk through churches are all identified with a the sub-structures to get a feel of Day cruises color and number. You can also join organized small group (from 2 to how the Palace was constructed. To see the entire substructures, 20) tours that begin in the Peristil SAIL OR SPEEDBOAT YOUR WAY TO THE ISLANDS! at various times of the day. Just there is an admission charge. For look the different color umbrellas a much more intimate experience, of several different travel agencies a private licensed guide will cost offering this service. Be sure to ask around €50-75.

44 45 Day sailing Blue cave DAILY FROM SPLIT! with gourmet delicacies and wine served on board!

Daily, half day, sunset and winter programs! Our wonderful Val 35 racing cruiser is perfect for experiencing the thrill of sailing with the comfort of on board toilet and salon. We provide the enjoyment, snorkel gear and light Dalmatian gourmet lunch with indigenous Croatian white wines. Daily, weather permitted, with as few as 2, to a maximum of 10. Check availability and book online: www.split-croatia-sailing.com

46 47 The Party Boat Bol Beach and Sunset Cruise JOIN THE PARTY! All inclusive P​olari​​s Daily June 1 to October 1 10AM ftom the Riva island cruises! All inclusive, cruise, lunch, open cocktail bar -- sun, swim, lunch, open bar! The Polaris is like cruising on 60€ your own private yacht! Full day (445 kn pp) / In July 70 € ( 520 kn) programs to Brac and/or Solta include a chef-prepared on Enjoy cruising to hidden bays on Šolta for sun and swimming with all day board 3-course lunch plus open cocktail bar, full onboard lunch, live DJ’s and much more! open bar for beer, wine, soft drinks, juice, water. BOOK ONLINE Explore charming towns; www.theboatpartysplit.com swim at Croatia’s most famous beaches. +385 91 6144 040 / +385 91 6134 040 Evening sunset cruise with live music trio +385 98 776 462 Bol cruise: Mon/Wed/Fri ...... 75€ / 560 kn pp. Two islands swimming: Tues/Thurs/Sun .... 65 € / 490 Kn pp. Sunset cruise: Tues/Thurs/Sun ...... 40 € / 300 Kn pp. Under 12 years - 50% disc, under 3 free. For complete schedule and to book online: www.polarissplit.com

48 49 Air/sea/ground transport

Split has excellent multi-modal inland as well as up and down the connections to Croatia and Dalmatian coast, is excellent and beyond. Complete ferry schedules frequent. The website, in Croatian and online ticketing are at www. only, is www.promet-split.hr/. The jadrolinija.hr. The daily Krilo train station is just before the catamaran to Dubrovnik runs May- bus station. Service is infrequent, October; online ticketing too: www. slower than the bus but more Getting Around krilo.hr. The main bus terminal for comfortable, and the trip to Zagreb local and international buses is just over the mountains is gorgeous, LOTS OF WAYS TO GET FROM SPLIT TO ANYWHERE! opposite the big red ferry terminal www.hzpp.hr/en. For taxis and on the harbor, as well as the all transfers, 24/7 Turist, like its name, important direct airport bus. The has 24/7 car and van service in information office there speaks town, Croatia and internationally. English, too. Website: www.ak- Just call +385 99 192 8392 or book split.hr/EN/. Local bus service, online at www.transfersplit.com. www.wikitravel.org/en/Split 50 51 Krilo catamarans Taxi’s / transfers Krilo Daily to Dubrovnik! 24/7 TURIST --Great service, low prices, family-operated! Whether it’s a long distance transfer to Italy or a quick run to the Mall of Split for shopping and a movie, we’ll get you there on time, in comfort, with a smile, at the lowest prices in town. Like our name implies, call us 24/7!

April 16 to Oct. 15 Daily via Hvar Town Split-Dubrovnik outbound Dubrovnik-Split inbound 7:40 Split 16:30 Dubrovnik 8:05 Brač (), leaves 8:10 17:45 Miljet, leaves 17:50 8:40 Hvar Town, leaves 8:50 18:20 Korčula, leaves 18:30 10:00 Korčula, leaves at 10:10 19:35 Hvar Town, leaves 19:45 10:40 , leaves at 10:45 20:15 Brač (Milna), leaves 20:20 12:00 Dubrovnik 20:45 Split Daily Sept. 1-Oct. 15 same outbound schedule but leaves Dubrovnik at 16/arrives Split at 20:15 Oct. 16-Oct. 27 Mon.-Wed.-Sat. same times as Sept. 1-Oct. 15

June 1 – Sept. 30 Daily Schedule via Bol/Makarska Split-Dubrovnik outbound Dubrovnik-Split inbound 7:30 Split 16:00 Dubrovnik 8:20 Brač (Bol), leaves 8:30 16:55 Mljet(Sobra),leaves 17:00 9:05 Makarska, leaves 9:15 17:55 Korčula, leaves 18:05 10:20 Korčula, leaves 10:30 19:10 Makarska, leaves 19:20 24/7 TURIST 11:15 Mljet(Sobra),leaves 11:20 19:55 Brač (Bol), leaves 20:05 family owned and operated, 12:15 Dubrovnik 20:55 Split your not just a passenger, you’re our guest! Tel. +385 21 645 476 Book online at www.krilo.hr Call +385 99 192 8392 at the pier in Split / We accept credit cards! Book online at www.247transfersplit.com / We accept all credit cards

52 53 Islands

Croatia has more than 1,100 and wine tour. Hvar, an hour by islands! An hour or less from Split catamaran, two by ferry, famous are some of the best. Vis, only 60 for its glitterati visitors and world- miles from the Italian coast, takes class party scene, has gorgeous several hours. Closed for decades Renaissance architecture as well as a military base (it was from here as the oldest, continuously farmed that Tito and the partisans fought agricultural plot on the planet in against the Nazi’s) is the least Stari Grad. Brač, with the best ferry touristy, with excellent beaches, service, just 45 minutes away, has Islands charming towns and history back Croatia’s most famous beach at to the 4thC BC Šolta is where Bol and much, much more. Korčula, the Emperor Diocletian chose to less than 3 hours via catamaran, ISLAND EXPERIENCES, THE PERFECT DAY TRIP! have his summer home. Bucolic, has great wine, Marco Polo, wild great sailing and biking and beaches, outstanding medieval home to a singular olive, honey architecture. Such great choices!

54 55 Brač Supetar Discover Supetar

Although less glamorous and more cliffs, is a marvel of human ingenuity. laid back than its neighbor, Hvar, Škrip, a hilltop stone village with Brač has everything a vacationer a restored olive mill complex, is wants—plus a lot of mystery. memorable. Brač’s white marble Supetar is the main ferry port, was used by the ancient Romans Our gorgeous seaside town is just 45 minutes from Split via ferry! just 45 min from Split with the to facade their public buildings as Enjoy a self-guided walking tour through the oldest and most wonderful harbor and charming well as by modern architects and beautiful parts of the town that celebrates the life and times of Ivan backstreets. The beach at is affluent homeowners today. The Rendic (1849-1932), one of Croatia’s most gifted sculptors. Then, Bol a wonderful lunch with island wine on our waterfront before you hop a natural wonder, with its long, island even has a stone masonry an afternoon ferry back to Split--the perfect island escape! sandy pebbled tongue changing school. At Donji Humac you can see shape with the tides. Cafes, stone artists working. Charming changing rooms and deep shade seaside hamlets like Povlja, Pučišća www.supetar.hr make this beach a must. Off the and Sumartin and some of the best 00385 21 630 551 coast, fascinating places like Blaca olive oil on the planet all add to the SUPETAR - People, Places & Events Monastery, hand built out of the Brač magic. supetar_unlock_your_experience www.idiividi.com 56 57 Hvar Jelsa

Photo: Jedan Komadić

Hvar gets written up in more Founded by the Greeks, its Ager international travel magazines agricultural plain is a UNESCO than any Croatian island, often as World Heritage site. , often a top 10 destination because of dubbed little Venice because of its elegant charm, A-list visitors, its small canals, is charming. Jelsa, lavender, wine and rich history. where families head for good The big lure here is Hvar town, beaches, is a seaside village with a Renaissance beauty, complete surprisingly good restaurants and with its own fort overlooking its well-preserved buildings from the beautiful harbor. The other main 15th and 16thC. Inland Hvar is all towns of the island play second about ancient stone villages (some fiddle, but undeservedly. Stari intact, but abandoned) and olive Grad, literally old town, is the groves, while the south coast is all ferry port for the island. Last year about Plavac mali, Croatia’s most it celebrated its 2400th birthday. famous red wine. www.dalmatia.hr/en/island-of-hvar 58 59 Korčula Šolta

Photo: Korcula Tourist Board Photo Tourist Board of Solta

The sixth largest island in Croatia, you can visit. Korčula town is just The closest island to Split, but the very good restaurants around Korčula is like a long, languid plain marvelous with its warren least visited, with less than 2,000 the harbor. Stomorska, Maslenica, serpent stretching west from Vela of fish-bone streets and curvy year round inhabitants, Šolta is one Necujam are the main seaside Luka, the main ferry port for the seafront promenade. Good beaches of the best kept secrets in Dalmatia. towns. Famous for its olives and island, to the walled medieval on either coast, idyllic villages like Like so many islands here, the rosemary honey, even Emperor fortress city of Korčula town in Lumbarda, where Croatia’s oldest Greeks were the main settlers, Diocletian had a summer palace the east. The island’s serpentine written relic was found—a Greek- but remains from the Stone Age here as well as a fish farm! A great roads and hilly spine make for inscribed stone tablet from the have been found on Šolta too. A place to bike or hike, with plenty a wonderful scooter trip as you 3rd C BC. Terrific fish, the island’s nautical paradise with 22 bays, the of hidden beaches and very good swoop up and down past endless famous moreska sword dancers island has sweet village marinas ferry service, Solta is the perfect vineyards (Pošip and Grk are the (real swords, real blood) and the and virgin coves where day sailors day trip to discover pristine island island’s signature whites) and legendary home of Marco Polo and charter boats put in to enjoy nature. Want to stay longer? Lots beautiful towns like Blato. High make Korčula a favorite holiday great swimming and sunbathing. of locals rent out apartments above Vela Luka’s harbor is Vela destination for Europeans who Rogač, just 45 minutes away by (some even with swimming pools), Špilja, a 20,000 year old open cave love its civilized, easy ambiance. ferry, is the main port with several just check online. www.visitkorcula.eu www.visitsolta.com 60 61 Vis

Discover Šolta, Photo: Tourist Board of Vis the island of olives, honey and wine!

It’s hard to imagine how this small coast. The Romans picked up where A glorious day meeting local island growers, plus a terrific island, just 60 miles from the the Greeks left off, but after their home-cooked lunch with wine on a private estate overlooking Italian coast played such a crucial empire fell in the 7thC Vis withered. the sea! First it’s off to the island’s third-generation family role in Dalmatian history. Although In WW2, Tito and his partisans used beekeeper to learn about Šolta’s famous rosemary honey; it can trace its beginnings to the the island to help the Allies. Today with a wonderful home-cooked lunch with wine. Next, the Neolithic period, the island’s first divers enjoy a seabed graveyard of award-winning Olynthia Natura olive mill (some of their real colony was established in the British and American aircraft just 4thC BC by Dionysis the Elder, from off its coast. Closed as a military trees are more than 1000 years old!) for a tour and tasting. Greek Syracuse. Named Issa, the base for decades, the island’s flora Then, some Dobričić wine tasting! Before the ferry, time for colony was so well-established and fauna flourished. As a result, swim! Includes walking you to the ferry, all island transfers, it become an independent town- this remote island is enjoying a lunch with wine 475kn pp state (polis) and even coined its real renaissance. But with no same own money. Rich and powerful, day return ferries, you will need the Issans eventually established to spend real time here—so how Reservations: 091-222-2727 colonies all along the Dalmatian about the weekend? This program is offered by More Mandic d.o.o. OIB: 30052107923 HR-AB-23-060133552 www.tz-vis.hr 62 63

With its signature waterfalls restored ensemble of small stone that you can practically swim houses, workshops and exhibits under, Krka is one of the most which show how water used to visited national parks in Croatia. make village life possible and It is about an hour by car via the sustainable centuries ago. You toll highway. Begin your Krka can walk on your own or be taken experience in the pretty seaside through well-marked trails to town of Skradin, where the Krka enjoy the flora and fauna here. National Parks River meets the sea and a fleet of Added excursions: Roski slap, a two-decker boats bring you to the beautiful, quiet, untouched nature park—a short mini-cruise included area in the upper part of the river UNTOUCHED NATURE, GORGEOUS WATERFALLS, GO! in the price of admission. A second canyon, perfect for swimming and option is to drive to the park. Šibenik, to see its main attraction All tours include a fascinating St James Cathedral, a UNESCO walk through an authentically- World Heritage site. www.np-krka.hr/en

64 65 Plitvice Photo by Ante Verzotti, used by permission of the photographer and the Tourist Board of Split.

Photo: NP Plitvice Plitvice, like Iguassu in Argentina, park, Entrance 1, above the lower Yellowstone in the US and lakes and Entrance 2, next to the Serengeti in Tanzania is one of upper lakes. There’s also the Flora those rare thrilling experiences entrance, the least crowded. With you remember forever. Covering shuttle buses every 20 minutes, almost 73.000 acres, it’s divided boat rides on Lake Kozjak, hiking into upper and lower lake areas trails—from 2 to 8 hours—and all (there are 16 lakes, over 90 that gorgeous flora and fauna, waterfalls, plus caves, caverns, Split Festivals/Events and forests). It’s a good three you will love it. Spend time on hour drive from Split, and in the their website to get well-oriented. summer, has as many as 12,000 Admission is not cheap, $25 in FROM ADVENT TO ULTRA, SPLIT IS A FESTIVAL! visitors a day! Best bet is get here summer. Less expensive, much early or spend the night. There less crowded and even more are two main entrances to the gorgeous in the Spring and Fall! www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr/en/plan-your-visit/

66 67 Split Festivals/Events St.Domnius Day (Sudjama) Days of Diocletian / late August May 7 Split’s festive patron Locals and tourists alike dress up saint’s day, Cathedral and Riva in tunics and togas to enjoy events, and a rowing regatta with Roman games, food and more. Oxford, Cambridge and Split! www.visitsplit.com Mediterranean Film Festival Mag Festival of Chamber Music / June 7-16 Croatian and Aug.-Sept. Enjoy live classical international films outdoors music in the gorgeous grand nightly at Bačvice beach and days hall of the Papalić Palace, home at Zlatna Vrata in the Palace. of the Split City Museum. www. udrugamag.com for exact dates Sustipan Nights / first week of July A summer live performance Split Int. Festival of New Film Croatia’s premier delight under the stars at Oct. 4-12 festival of the avant garde, with gorgeous Sustipan Park, at the an international jury. Program end of the Riva. Get there early info at www.splitflmfestival.hr and take a blanket! Split-Vis Regatta / Oct. 10-14 ULTRA Festival / July 5-11 For the past 74 years, the regatta Europe’s epic EDM and house that defines the end of the music rave in Poljud Stadium. summer sailing season. Watch Join tens of thousands dancing more than 150 sail boats from like crazy from night ‘til dawn. around the world. www.visitsplit.com Advent in Split / Nov. 25-Jan 6 Blues Festival Split / July 19-21 The annual holiday fair on the A 3 day festival featuring waterfront Riva. Traditional food, Croatian, regional and world grog, entertainment and fun! artists. www.splitbluesfestival.com 64rd Annual Split Summer Festival / July-August A performing arts Shopping extravaganza from around the world. Outdoors as well as in. Schedule at: www.splitsko-ljeto. FROM GAME OF THRONES GIFTS TO DESIGNER CLOTHES! hr/en/#schedule www.visitsplit.com

68 69 Game of Thrones Get More Take the throne! NOT YOUR ORDINARY SOUVENIR STORE! SHIPPING WORLDWIDE

BUY MAKE GOT fan? Now you can on an exact replica of the Iron Throne TASTE and have your picture taken at Split’s premier GOT fan shop. Enjoy EVERYTHING CREATIVE WORKSHOPS the most complete collection of licensed GOT souvenirs, get great HANDMADE discounts when you buy more than one item plus a special tour discount with any purchase!

Kraj sv. Ivana 5 0385 989229373 Merchandise & fan shop / Split, Bosanska 10 WE’RE JUST BEFORE JUPITER’S TEMPLE 09:00h – 21:00h IN AN AUTHENTIC SPLIT COURTYARD! /getmore.split

70 71 Baška Voda

Photo: Baska Voda Tourist Board

One of the prettiest towns along of seashells from the Adriatic as the , Baška Voda, well as from other oceans. The like its Croatian name, has always Archaeological Museum has a been a source of fresh water—a fine collection of pre-historic valuable resource for early settlers implements, Roman and Greek and farmers who arrived​ ​here amphorae, ancient coins and more. 4000 years ago. Nestled between And there are some interesting Town/City Day Trips the Biokovo mountain range, just Renaissance-era churches like St. above the town, and the sea, Baška Roko’s. During the summer, lots of Voda is an oasis of calm beauty. local events like fishermen’s nights FROM BAŠKA VODA TO TROGIR! Besides enjoying its harbor and and folk dancing. No wonder this pebble beaches, there’s some small town,with a good selection of intriguing sightseeing here, like the accommodations, restaurants and town’s Macalogical Museum, which its beautiful natural surroundings, features the biggest collection is such a success! www.baskavoda.hr/en/welcome-to-baska-voda 72 73 Brela Dugopolje

Photo: Tourist Board of Brela Brela has been welcoming tourists walking,swimming and hiking, you since 1897. Like its sister, Baška can enjoy some terrific local sites Voda, the deep pine forests like the Road (1808- framing its beaches, the Biokovo 1813), the carved stone Bekavci- mountain range looming overhead Ivandić complex of 19thC houses; and a particularly rich history fortified tower of Soline and and culture make it a perennial Biokovo Nature Park. You can also destination for many Europeans. visit boutique wineries and enjoy Forbes listed Brela’s Punta Rata some delicious local cuisine like beach as one of the 10 best in the Brela’s surprising swiss chard cake world and its famous lungomare (a made with cinnamon and raisins! beach front walking promenade) Despite its small size, Brela also extends 6,5 km from Jakiruša to boasts some excellent Bluesun- Berulija is a joy to walk. Perfect for branded and other top quality a more active holiday, after all that hotel-resorts. www.brela.hr/en/2/brela 74 75 Dubrovnik Krilo Star Daily to Dubrovnik!

7:40AM from Split, 12:05PM in Dubrovnik! with stops at Brač, Hvar, Miljet and Korčula 16:30PM from Dubrovnik, in Split at 20:45 Daily Sept. 1-Oct. 15 7:40AM Split, 16PM from Dubrovnik The “Peal of the Adriatic“, Dubrovnik is 200 vessels! Today, its wealth and Oct, 16-Oct. 27 Mon.-Wed.-Sat. one of the most popular destinations power are amply evident in the 7:40AM Split, 16PM from Dubrovnik in Croatia and a key cruise stop. To rich architectural legacy within its enjoy it with less crowds, best to monumental fortress walls. You can Enjoy a glorious afternoon in Dubrovnik and be start your sightseeing before 9 or take a funicular to high up over the back in Split for dinner! Comfortable seating, after 6! As the first protected port city to enjoy the spectacular view on-board cafe, great scenery and short stops at on the east-west Adriatic route, or walk atop its fortress walls. The beautiful islands! Dubrovnik used its strategic location churches, public buildings, squares to become the most significant and palaces—all within the fortress maritime and mercantile center of walls—are glorious. A UNESCO DAILY APRIL 16-OCT. 15 the Adriatic --rivaling its arch enemy World Heritage site, plus great Venice. By the 16thC, the Ragusa cuisine, wonderful shopping and Tel. +385 21 645 476 Republic, as Dubrovnik was called, ferries to take you to Korčula, Mljet entered a golden age with a world- National Park and other nearby Book online at www.krilo.hr class merchant navy of almost islands for perfect day trips. at the Split pier, Krilo kiosk / we accept credit cards! www.tzdubrovnik.hr/lang/en/news/gradski_vodic/index.html

76 77 Imotski The Kaštelas

Photo: Kastela Tourist Board

Discovering Imotski is a such a can you find two very strange Inhabited since prehistoric times preserved town squares, steps from surprise—only 45 minutes from lakes—one blue, called of course (50,000 year old artifacts have the sea, surrounded by a tangle Split on the E65, there’s enough Blue Lake and the other, the Red been found here), the name of narrow streets and old stone real magic here to keep you Lake, whose depth is a staggering kaštela means castle in Croatian. houses, the walk along a common fascinated for days. The first 528 meters—the deepest karst Between the 13-15thC, aristocrats seafront promenade (with beaches surprise is that it looks like a lake in Europe! With hotels and and clergymen from Trogir and for swimming) that connects some coastal city with stone houses holiday home rentals, excellent Split built fortified castles here, of the towns is wonderful. To visit a nestled into the hills, steep narrow local cuisine like slow cooked veal some complete with moats and restored castle, enjoy Kaštel Vitturi, streets and stone steps, beautiful peka and kapurali (minced meat drawbridges. At one time, the now a museum and tourist board facades and wrought iron railings- in cabbage) and terrific wine (the 12 mile stretch between Split office in Kaštel Lukšić. Excellent -and protecting the town, the first Dalmatian champagne was and the airport had 16 of them. restaurants, boutique wineries, 10thC Topana fortress (photo made here), Imotski has a lot to Today Kaštela includes 7 distinct too. Kaštela is the birthplace above). The nearest coast is 30km offer—plus having more Mercedes townships, like Kaštel Novi (new of Zinfandel wine (crljenak away! This is off-the-beaten-path Benz’s per capita than anywhere castle town), Kaštel Stari (old kaštelanski)—and it’s also home to Croatia at its best. Where else on the planet! castle town) and others. With well- a 400 berth marina! www.gaz-travel.hr www.kastela-info.hr/en/home 78 79 Klis Knin

Photo: www.boredpanda.com/blog Krčić Waterfall

Klis Fortress, now internationally overrun the nearby capital of the Like other off-the-coast inland stone work and the sheer vastness famous as a Game of Thrones site, is Roman Empire in Dalmatia, Salona, gems like Imotski (page 78), Knin of the place. Despite it’s hinterland one of Croatia’s most important and today’s Solin. Largely restored and is a constant surprise—why don’t location, Knin was clearly one very celebrated strongholds. Impossibly significantly enlarged, the views more tourists come here?! Not important place. The town is also built atop the narrow spine of a down the valley to Split and the sea only was Knin the one-time capital famous for an enclave of splendid craggy butte overlooking the city beyond are thrilling—especially of Croatia during the 10thC when medieval churches and fascinating and the surrounding area between at sunset. Best of all, it’s just 15 kings like Krešimir IV and Zvonimir archaeological finds like a trio of and Kozjak mountains, it’s minutes from Split by highway made their mark, but its stupendous Roman camps. ​And after all this easy to see why it has been such or the old Klis road where locals fort, majestically looming over walking about, just a 30 minute a defensive prize since the 2ndC from far and wide come to enjoy the town is the second largest in drive takes you to Krka National BC. In 10AD, the great Roman spit-roasted lamb. You can also get all Europe. Beautifully restored, Park where you can cool off as well Emperor used it to here via the highway, without tolls, sitting 300 meters above as swim under its waterfalls! More keep the Dalmatians in line. More just get off at the Klis exit and everything in sight, its defensive reasons why Knin is exactly the than 600 years later, it fell to the follow the signs to Klis Fortress, walls are almost 2km long! You kind of terrific day trip you always Avars and , enabling them to just five minutes away. can spend hours just admiring the hope for.​ http://www.tvrdavaklis.com/ http://www.tz-knin.hr/ 80 81 Makarska Krilo Eclipse daily from Makarska to Dubrovnik! --incl. Korcula and Miljet

Enjoy cruising on the Krilo Eclipse, big picture windows, lots of storage space and speeds up to 30 knots! Enjoy Makarska’s great beaches, restaurants and Photo: Makarska Tourist Board Biokovo Nature Park for the day!

What makes so many Central nature (Biokovo Mountain Nature Photo:June Augustina 1 - Sept. Worsham 30 Daily Schedule from/to Makarska Dalmatian towns so fascinating Park is minutes away) and pulsing (see page 52 for schedules from Split) is how much of their history nightlife. During the summer and culture still remain--from months its harbor is jammed with Makarska-Dubrovnik Dubrovnik-Makarska Makarska’s prehistoric Illyrian yachts and tourist ships. At night, 9:15 Makarska 16:00 Dubrovnik artifacts, Roman villas,Turkish the center of town is hopping with 10:20 Korčula 16:55 Mljet(Sobra) walls and Venetian Baroque nearby discos, bars and bistros. buildings to its 17thC beginnings For culture, head to the city’s 11:15 Mljet 17:55 Korčula as a popular Austrian resort town. waterfront museum, as well as St. 12:15 Dubrovnik 19:10 Makarska Today, it’s a lively city of more Filip Church. For a gorgeous city than 15,000 that’s a perennial view, magnificent Mount Biokovo destination for international and the open sea, enjoy St. Petar Tel. +385 21 645 476 travelers who love its sandy beach, park. Another big plus--a ferry almost 2 km long, pine tree-lined line to Sumartin on the island of Book online at www.krilo.hr walkways, hotels, campgrounds, Brač for a great day trip! We accept credit cards! www.makarska-info.hr/en/ 82 83 Omiš

Omiš is one of the most to Palestine. So powerful that in picturesque and fascinating 1221 Pope Honorius III organized towns in Central Dalmatia. Its a crusade against them—and sheer physical beauty--the lost. No wonder cities large and mountain range behind Split that small decided it was better to snakes it way down the coast pay tribute rather than lose their practically swallows the town ships. Today, Omiš is still all about when it gets here—is matched adventure—whitewater rafting, by its unusual history of being free climbing, hiking, zip lines and the home of the Adriatic’s most more. The winding back street old successful and feared pirates! town, ancient churches and burial For almost two centuries, Omiš grounds; a very good town beach pirates raided shipping from as and all that adventure make it a far away as Venice, and even perfect day trip by car or #60 bus attacked papal galleons sailing direct from Split’s Green Market. www.visitomis.hr/en/about-omis 84 85 Salona Sinj

Photo: Croatian National Tourist Board

Photo: www.apoliticni.hr

Salona, the present town of Solin, early Christian remains, carved Up and over the hills behind Split caused the rout, but all know just 10 minutes from Split on the Roman sarcophagi and remnants are off-the-beaten-track discoveries it was the miracle! Every year, for the way to the airport, became a Roman of majestic entry gates, most of that every tourist yearns for. Sinj is past 302 years, the town honors its colony in 33 BC during Augustus’ Salona is still underground-- a world-class find. With a history triumph with the Alka, an authentic reign. In 170AD, Emperor Marcus even its amphitheater has been that began in the Bronze Age, knights tournament (see page 23). Aurelius made it the capital of stripped—looted by the Venetians. this fortified hill town has a lot The newly-opened Alka Museum Dalmatia, a glorious city whose As you walk these vast meadows to celebrate. Topping the list is a is a treasure and the Franciscan population grew to 50,000! It that overlook the harbor behind 1715 battle where 700 Sinj citizens Monastery Museum is downright remained important until the early Split’s port, it’s easy to see how 7thC when the Slavs and other this was once a very great city. faced ten thousand Ottoman Turks. gorgeous with Roman rarities like the tribes besieged the region, forcing One day, when Salona is fully Emboldened by a magical apparition head of Heracles and a 172 cm intact residents to flee to the islands restored, it will be more dazzling of the Virgin Mary the night before, statue of the goddess Diana Lucifera and the safety of Diocletian’s than Pompeii! And there is hope-- the Sinj defenders miraculously and much more. All this plus ancient palace, then under Byzantine rule. because this year a new hotel just fought off the Turks. Some claim it forts, pristine nature, trout fishing on Although there are some splendid opened opposite the entrance. was dysentery and starvation that the Cetina River and unique cuisine! www.solin-info.com/en/ www.visitsinj.com/en 86 87 Skradin Šibenik

Photo: www,sibenik.in

A little more than an hour on the restaurants and shops…but the First mentioned in 1066 by the and shops makes walking here a real toll-road from Split is Skradin. With back streets are quiet and lovely Croatian king Petar Krešimir IV, pleasure. The crown jewels are St. less than 4,000 lucky inhabitants, and as you climb higher, offer a Šibenik is Croatia’s oldest native James Cathedral (1431-1535!) and it’s a charming little seaside town great harbor view. With direct coastal town. Its picturesque harbor St. Nicholas Fortress, both UNESCO gorgeously nestled in its own access to the sea, the town is a has been of constant importance World Heritage sites, the only city in protected harbor downstream favorite of sailors. From traditional throughout history. To protect Croatia with two such marvels!, The from the famous waterfalls at it against the mighty Ottoman cathedral is built entirely of stone, folk klapa singing to the roaring Krka National Park where the navy, the Venetians built a ring of without any binding materials, like waterfalls of the Skradinski Buk, river meets the sea. It’s the water fortresses above the town starting mortar! With triple-nave basilica, gateway to the Park, where you can Skradin is a marvelous find. And in the 16thC-- St. Michael, St. John a dome soaring to 32m and 71 park your car and then board one so is their wine--more than 75 and Šubićevac—all of which can realistic sculptural portraits around of the fleet of double decked water years ago a local vintage here won be toured. Just off the waterfront, the exterior, it’s wondrous. Close to taxis for the short trip up river to the grand prix award in Toulouse, ancient back streets (some with National Park (a necklace of the entrance. The waterfront is France and was declared one of wonderful carvings on the doors stunning islands) and Krka National full of people, yachts, day boats, the six best wines in the world! of the wealthy), handsome squares Park make Šibenik a must! http://www.skradin.hr/en/ www.sibenik-tourism.hr/en/eng 88 89 Stobreč Trogir

Photo: Ferienhaus-Liste.de

Photo: Hrvatsko geografsko društvo

Stobreč, just 7km down the coast some wonderful ruins on the north On its own tiny island that you took 400 years to finish. Beginning from Split, was one of the colonies side of the peninsula from this can walk around in 30 minutes, with its supernatural entrance founded by the Greeks from Issa period—, a canal—as Trogir’s historic core, a UNESCO portal carved in 1240 replete with (the present day island of Vis) in well as a great 5thC basilica, up to World Heritage site, is in a word, serpents, demons, life size nudes of the 3rdC BC. Then called Epetion, 7 meters high, and early medieval astonishing. Founded by Greeks Adam and Eve, a four year old Jesus almost a semi-island, it was one churches. Today the town is known in the 3rdC BC, the symbol of the being given a way too hot bath of the first urban settlements on for its exceptional Blue Flag town is the Greek god Kairos. A to the literal face of God looking the eastern coast of the Adriatic. beach, very well-equipped seaside relief with his image found here down at you from a basilica ceiling Its cliff side setting, opening to a campground, extensive sports can be seen in the Benedictine inside, the magic and mystery protected harbor made it a natural facilities and excellent seafood Monastery. Few places on earth here is profound. The main square fortress. The Romans renamed restaurants. Less than 10 minutes have had so much money spent medieval architectural ensemble, the town Epetium and considered on the main highway out of Split by so few people in such a small stone paved winding alleys, richly it so important, they gave it the and served by a direct bus (#25) area to showcase their wealth ornamented facades, original status of a prefecture---allowing line to its waterfront promenade, and power. The Cathedral of St. Venetian-era city walls and the town to rule itself. There are Stobreč is delightful! Lawrence is their jewel and it Kamerlengo Fortress are fabulous. www.visitstobrec.com www.tztrogir.hr 90 91 Experience the past There are 10 UNESCO World Dubrovnik old city Heritage sites in Croatia— Surrounded by majestic walls UNESCO Šibenik is the only place with 2 and the Adriatic, with gorgeous These 8 are all easy day trips: 15th/16thC architecture, in World Heritage sites the Middle Ages, it rivaled the Ager, Stari Grad, Hvar mighty Venetian Empire. During In the 4thC BC, the Greeks who the summer, the main square is EIGHT DIFFERENT UNESCO SITES, ALL EASY DAY TRIPS! settled this island laid out a teeming with tourists and it’s really sophisticated agricultural plain that hot. So try to do your sightseeing today is the oldest continuously before 9 or after 4. See page 76 farmed plot on the planet. It’s just a few minutes from where the ferry Plitvice Lakes National Park from Split docks. Buses to Stari A wondrous series of connecting Grad meet all ferries. See page 58 lakes, tumbling waterfalls, hiking trails, caves and forests that seem Cathedral of St. James, Šibenik to go on forever. The most visited A stunning example of high site in the country, despite its Renaissance art and architecture, vastness, it can be really crowded. set on its own handsome square Best bet, spend the night, or get near the harbor. Many tours to here before 9. See page 66 Krka National Park include a tour of this cathedral, so check to see if Trogir’s historic core the one you are booking does. Arguably Central Europe’s best- preserved Romanesque,Gothic St. Nicholas Fortress, Šibenik, built complex. The Cathedral of St. at the entrance to the narrow mile Lawrence is astounding inside and long channel of St Ana which is the out. Take a water taxi from Split access by sea to the Šibenik bay during the season or #37 bus if you don’t have a car. See page 91 Diocletian’s Palace and complex Walk in the footsteps of a Roman Zadar’s fortified city walls and emperor and see history evolving gates, once the largest city- in front of you from the 4thC to fortress in the entire Republic of present day. Avoid the crowds Venice, never fell to the Ottomans, and wait until later in the day allowing it keep more of its to experience this great living independence than most of its monument. See page 28 neighboring cities.

Trogir www.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_World_Heritage_Sites_in_Croatia 92 93 Indulge yourself

Centuries before Central Dalmatia our wine, which consistently wins became a hot spot for tourists from medals at world competitions. around the world, it was promoted Our fruit and vegetables (from as a region of wellness, where the peaches to potatoes dark gloom of industrial European from Sinj!) are just plain delicious. life could be left behind to enjoy And our olive oil is divine. Recently, Wine/Food/Wellness endless sunshine, excellent water, boutique wine makers and chefs pure sea air and the simple have started wine and olive oil pleasure of being able to eat tasting, as well as cooking classes. ENJOY THE BEST OF CROATIA, IT’S ALL HERE! absolutely fresh fruit, vegetables, So while you are here, make it a meat and seafood all year long. point to spend at least a day in Today spas and wellness clinics a spa indulging yourself; wine in Central Dalmatia are booming tasting with the maker himself or for pretty much the same reasons. cooking up a Dalmatian specialty Gastronomes have also discovered with a talented local chef!

94 95 Wine tasting Small group wine tasting, produced by the same family since 1720! Overlooking the sea, all hand-grafted, estate grown, picked and crushed by hand. Award-winning, extremely limited production, not available in stores or restaurants.

to Enjoy great wine, 60 € pp (450kn), with dinner, 80 € pp (600kn) --four different wines, Dalmatian delicacies or grilled dinner, vineyard/ Biblical Garden walk. Round trip transportation included from Split! Working time mon-sat 09:00-20:30 / sun 10:00-18:00 Year round programs! 15 km from Split Wine Tasting/Wine Cellar Dinners/Zinfandel Origin Tour Special offer on Tuesday Olive oil tasting / Cooking Classes Adress: Leopolda Mandića 17 Direct online booking! www.winetourcroatia.com 21204 Dugopolje E-mail: [email protected] www.top-outlet.hr 96