GROWING STAR OF THE DESERT KANE ATH-LEISURE CONTINUED TO BE THE KEY CHRISTOPHER TREND IN MEN’S WEAR AT THE TRADE SHOWS KANE UNVEILS HIS IN LAS VEGAS, ALONG WITH CASUALWEAR FIRST FLAGSHIP, IN AND LESS FORMAL TAILORING. PAGE MW1 LONDON’S MOUNT STREET. PAGE 5

MCKEE TALKS STRATEGY XXXXXX Saks Downtown: Xxx Xxx Xxx Going ‘Avant-Garde’ Xxx Xxx Xxx Xxx

By DAVID MOIN By OVIDIS A NATQUE NET

NEW YORK — The opening is two years away, but MENDA VOLUPTA turepudit, quias nestis accus as it’s none too soon to discuss the vision for Saks Fifth resti beriasi doluptatem. Nem aut aperunto est ut Avenue in Brookfi eld Place. perrori taquidem aut qui blatem ad eium fugiantur “It will be a fusion of the Saks DNA with a mod- modi cus vel iusam fugiamus, omnim volendus, sinus ern relevance,” Marigay McKee, the president of Saks eaquas dolorep tatatent qui que sandelendis quis aut THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Fifth Avenue, said Wednesday in her fi rst interview voluptur? about the site, in the burgeoning fi nancial district. Nam essint aut ea duntinv elendiciam num exp- WWD labo ribusae niam quidebi ssimet autat. “It will be a very, very cool store with a good, better, best approach. Just because we’re selling Antiur, nobit faceptat. Fendi or Gucci doesn’t mean we shouldn’t be selling Idis molupti nonsequis doloren impelecae nusci Longchamp as well, or Tumi leather — large-volume im solente molorep eribus des corpora tibus, odis et products as well as the high end,” she said. dunt dolorpo reiciatem dolo int adigend uciendus En route to the Michael Kors show Wednesday, aperita consequam utatur, quiani conectiam ut as Yin McKee openly discussed the 85,000-square-foot intionsequas et quaeriat qui aut unt omniendi blabo. downtown project. It’s among several she’s taken on Tem voluptat quam cum et fugia il mo etus aut eicae at Saks, including an opening in Sarasota, Fla., in lam, offi ctoribus adistionsed que non re cone con October; another that’s set for San Juan, Puerto Rico, cumquasped et quis del mo dellupt ataerum faccae next month, and the expansion into Canada, starting repudae ne voluptat la cusapit periscilit quis eiur, aut early next year in Toronto. The team is also fi guring et atur asitisimi, autem quo quia nis quid qui ut auta Yang out how to renovate and reconfi gure the Fifth Avenue dolesequi corum qui debitatur, quiam nis mos volu- fl agship, and striving to remerchandise the chain in a pis sequam faccus si im el il isimoditis volorporem bid to elevate profi tability and the image. imporro conse con ratquiasse vellum re et et optate Between it all, McKee said, “I have spent quite con consequuntio doluptiam eata digenis aut offi c to a bit of time downtown, and I have been to the site inctur sam re re dolupta tessin con pe corio dolorum quite a few times. It’s really important to have a Saks aditias et el et mi, ius dolori bla eosam utem even- Yes Fifth Avenue downtown. There are good schools, dae offi cae nobistr umquos milliqui apiendam rere- Michael Kors loves contrast. great views, great apartments. Time Inc. is mov- hen dendandi doluptur maiorrovid eum es quid eturi For fall, he played with ing downtown. There’s Condé Nast,” at One World tem re, incipsa nisquiam quatenimet quiditatem im- Trade Center. “Downtown is new and contemporary porrovid ut quia di simporest et la dolorro blant eos the dichotomy of “opulent and defi nitely the place to go. When you look at that dolupti atistia cus, aborpore landio to blautet as aut restraint,” turning out customer, the affl uence level is very high. Downtown offi cipsam earciaes excearum, qui te offi cilicit est aut modern sportswear with is becoming a hub for retail, restaurants and luxury id mil min ea pore mil iumque pro vit offi cab il en- real estate. Just looking at apartments downtown, in a dantotatum verovid mod et rat.Soloremquiam et pro cool crossover appeal. half-mile radius, I was shocked. The most incredible que pelique plibus et, similiqui ius essi re arum et Here, he pairs a sleek buildings are going up.” od mo earum aliquat latur, offi c tem faciend itatend esequatur molene landit endam solor sene vitaqua ti- silver fox collar with Recently, she spent a Saturday exploring the area with a real estate agent, to take in the demographics. asitaquunt faccuptur sum qui od untorum facitiis do- lessita dolupta temporepe platect enistiam con conse- crisp men’s wear SEE PAGE 4 ditae. Itatum et aut ant enim acillor am eos esectas et tailoring in layers explam repudae. Nequam, omniminum faceruptatas of houndstooth, plaid and shirting stripes. For more New York Fast Retailing’s Goal: collections, see pages 6 to 10. $253B in Sales by 2030 Xxxxxx Xxxxxx By OVIDIS A NATQUE NET By AMANDA KAISER MENDA VOLUPTA turepudit, quias nestis accus as TOKYO — Fast Retailing just keeps raising the bar. resti beriasi doluptatem. Nem aut aperunto est ut COLLECTIONS The Japanese company, which already aims to perrori taquidem aut qui blatem ad eium fugiantur become the world’s biggest apparel retailer by 2020, modi cus vel iusam fugiamus, omnim volendus, sinus should now hit the 30 trillion yen sales mark by 2030 eaquas dolorep tatatent qui que sandelendis quis aut NEW YORK — or $253 billion annually at current exchange — ac- voluptur? FALL 2015 cording to the company’s chairman, president and Nam essint aut ea duntinv elendiciam num exp- chief executive Tadashi Yanai. labo ribusae niam quidebi ssimet autat. The executive said his company, which is already Antiur, nobit faceptat. gunning to hit annual sales of 5 trillion yen, or $42 Idis molupti nonsequis doloren impelecae nusci billion, by 2020, needs to start thinking beyond that im solente molorep eribus des corpora tibus, odis et goal. Yanai shared his vision with journalists at Fast dunt dolorpo reiciatem dolo int adigend uciendus Retailing’s yearly media event. The corporate parent aperita consequam utatur, quiani conectiam ut as of Uniqlo has said it expects sales for the year ending intionsequas et quaeriat qui aut unt omniendi blabo. this August will increase 15.7 percent to 1.6 trillion Tem voluptat quam cum et fugia il mo etus aut eicae yen, or $13.44 billion. lam, offi ctoribus adistionsed que non re cone con “So we are within sight of 5 trillion yen, and that’s cumquasped et quis del mo dellupt ataerum faccae not just big talk. I think soon we have to start making big repudae ne voluptat la cusapit periscilit quis eiur, aut ambitions for the year 2030 as well, and if it’s the year et atur asitisimi, autem quo quia nis quid qui ut auta 2030, why not 30 trillion yen?” he told the crowd, some of dolesequi corum qui debitatur, quiam nis mos volu- whom chuckled at Yanai’s audacious goal. “It’s not a joke. pis sequam faccus si im el il isimoditis volorporem I believe it’s possible that we can realize this dream.” imporro conse con ratquiasse vellum re et et optate The company is expanding its international retail con consequuntio doluptiam eata digenis aut offi c network rapidly. In the fi rst quarter alone, Uniqlo to inctur sam re re dolupta tessin con pe corio do- opened 62 stores outside Japan. The brand had a total lorum aditias et el et mi, ius dolori bla eosam utem of 695 international stores at the end of November. evendae offi cae nobistr umquos milliqui apiendam “The year 2020 is right around the corner, so rerehen dendandi doluptur maiorrovid eum es quid we have started to talk about 2030. We have to look eturi tem re, incipsa nisquiam quatenimet quiditatem ahead,” he said, voicing optimism about markets such imporrovid ut quia di simporest et la dolorro blan as the United States, China and Europe. PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 5 SEE PAGE XX 2 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015 WWD.COM

Kenneth Cole Taps Schneider THE BRIEFING BOX chandising, design and planning By LISA LOCKWOOD at Melville Corp./Bob’s Stores, IN TODAY’S WWD where he was an owner/offi cer. NEW YORK — Kenneth Cole Schneider said his new posi- Productions has named Marc tion offers him “a great oppor- Schneider chief executive officer. tunity to collaborate with the New York Fashion Week Schneider will be responsible retailers, the licensing partners street style. For more, for the company’s retail, outlet, and the entire Kenneth Cole see WWD.com. e-commerce, international, li- team for the journey ahead.” censing and wholesale business- Cole said, “Over the last year es. He will start his new role on we have been working on trans- Monday and report to Kenneth formative initiatives to better Cole, executive chairman and position the company for future chief creative offi cer. global growth.” He said that Most recently, Schneider was Marc Schneider’s background in all group president of Heritage Schneider facets of the apparel, footwear Brands at PVH Corp. He was re- and accessories businesses will sponsible for the dress furnish- chandising and licensing. Other be instrumental in navigating ings, sportswear, licensing and positions he has held include di- that growth. retail divisions. Earlier, he was vision vice president and group The role of ceo has been va- senior vice president and an offi - vice president of the men’s divi- cant since the departure of Paul cer at Timberland, where he was sion at Macy’s. He also served as Blum in 2012. Blum is now ceo PHOTO BY RYAN KIBLER RYAN PHOTO BY in charge of global product, mer- executive vice president of mer- of Fred Segal.

The opening is two years away, but it’s none too soon to discuss the vision for Saks Fifth Avenue in Brookfi eld Place, Peter Kim Exits Joe’s Jeans Board according to company president Marigay McKee. PAGE 1 Marc Crossman resigned on Jan. 23 after a By ARNOLD J. KARR nine-year tenure in the post and moved into a Fast Retailing should now hit the 30 trillion yen sales mark consulting role with the fi rm. He was succeed- by 2030, according to the company’s chairman, president and PETER KIM, the founder and chief executive offi - ed on an interim basis by Samuel Joseph “Jay” chief executive offi cer Tadashi Yanai. PAGE 1 cer of Hudson Jeans, has resigned from the board Furrow Jr., the former ceo of Joe’s predecessor of Joe’s Jeans Inc., the troubled denim fi rm that company, Innovo Group Inc., and the son of Joe’s Peter Kim, the founder and ceo of Hudson Jeans, has resigned bought Hudson from Kim and Fireman Capital longtime chairman, Samuel J. “Sam” Furrow. The from the board of Joe’s Jeans Inc., the troubled denim fi rm that Partners for $97.6 million in late 2013. elder Furrow picked up the post, also on an in- bought Hudson in late 2013. PAGE 2 Kim has retained B. Riley & Co. LLC as his fi - terim basis, last Friday. nancial adviser and Sullivan & Cromwell LLP Carl Marks Advisory Group is advising Joe’s Kenneth Cole Productions has named Marc Schneider chief Jeans, which expects to name a “chief restructuring as legal counsel to assist in a review of his alter- executive offi cer. He’ll be responsible for the company’s retail, natives. He remains ceo and manager of Hudson adviser” to help it navigate through its diffi culties. outlet and e-commerce businesses. PAGE 2 as well as ceo and a director of Hudson Clothing Kim was unavailable to elaborate on his options. Holdings Inc. and HC Acquisition Holdings Inc., all B. Riley said that, since founding Hudson in 2002, wholly owned subsidiaries of Joe’s. Both Joe’s and he “has remained committed to realizing his stra- Changes are in store for Capsule, the high-end, contemporary Hudson are based in Los Angeles. tegic vision of being at the forefront of innovation women’s exhibition, which will relocate to Pier 94 and will Financing for the acquisition of Hudson includ- in the premium denim market and impacting it in a include Capsule Accessories. PAGE 4 ed a $60 million senior term loan from Garrison signifi cant way.” Investment Group. Joe’s fell out of compliance with Kim has been a trailblazer in the premium Christopher Kane is the latest British designer to move into the profi tability requirements of the Garrison fi - denim market as well as in the marketing of the Mount Street, joining fellow London-based creatives Roksanda nancing during the 12 months ended Sept. 30, trig- premium segment. The Hudson brand put Georgia Ilincic, Nicholas Kirkwood and more. PAGE 5 gering a default on both the Garrison facility and May Jagger in its ads over a three-year period, but the $50 million revolving credit facility with CIT more recently moved to marketing messages em- John Galliano’s lawyer has appealed a decision by a Paris Trade Finance that also helped fi nance the deal. phasizing “real, crafted and optimistic” over those labor court rejecting the British designer’s claims of wrongful Under terms of the default, the company is pro- stressing “sexy, mysterious and cool.” dismissal after he was ousted from Christian Dior. PAGE 5 hibited from making payments under the convert- “Aspirational,” Kim told WWD in an interview ible notes issued to Kim, Reebok founder Paul last year. “I hear the word all the time and it makes The New York Times Sunday Magazine has yet another new Fireman’s Fireman Capital Partners and other for- me puke. Aspiration isn’t just physical beauty. look and direction under editor in chief Jake Silverstein, who mer Hudson stockholders. The principal amount of Aspiration is what you’re doing in life.” took the helm in May. PAGE MW4 the notes was $22.9 million. In a Form 10-K fi led with the Securities and Kim holds $14.3 million of those notes, which Exchange Commission last week, Joe’s said “there From shearlings galore to graphic prints, destroyed moto to would be convertible into about 8 million shares can be no assurance that we will be able to refi - varying shades of green, here were the most prevalent trends of common stock, or about 10 percent of those out- nance the debt or that the requested amendments standing, on Sept. 30. will be granted on acceptable terms. on the men’s runway for fall. PAGE MW5 Kim has asked Joe’s board to permit B. Riley Without “reasonable fi nancing,” the company said access, “under appropriate confi dentiality agree- it could be forced to fi le for Chapter 11 bankruptcy Jimmy Fallon revisited his famous duet with Justin Timberlake ments,” to fi nancial information and other records protection, surrender collateral assets or both. on SNL’s 40th anniversary and also seemed to have absorbed to assist Kim in evaluating his options. According to the 10-K, Joe’s registered a net loss some fashion tips from the entertainer. PAGE MW5 “To date, the company has not permitted B. of $27.7 million in the fi scal year ended Nov. 30, up Riley that access,” said a statement issued on Kim’s from a loss of $7.3 million the prior year. Sales rose ON WWD.COM behalf by B. Riley. “There can be no assurances 34.6 percent to $188.8 million from $140.2 million. that Mr. Kim will make any proposals with respect The most recent fi scal year was the fi rst in which THEY ARE WEARING: WWD went off the runways and onto to the company.” Hudson’s results were consolidated for the entire the streets and sidewalks for the best looks from New York While talks aimed at amending the facilities or 12 months, and the brand’s wholesale and retail Fashion Week. For more, WWD.com. granting Joe’s forbearance on the default have gone on revenues totaled $52.8 million and $3 million, re- since November, the stock has been decimated, falling spectively. Fiscal 2013 results included two months from a 52-week high of $1.55 on Feb. 27 to as low as 18 of Hudson’s results. cents in early trading Wednesday before closing at 19 The larger loss at Joe’s last year resulted from, FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA cents, down 9.1 percent. At the time Joe’s disclosed the among other factors, a $23.6 million pretax good- @ WWD.com/social default on Nov. 14, shares closed at 75 cents. will impairment charge and more than a fi ve-fold More recently, Joe’s has seen a procession of ceo’s, increase in interest expense, to $13.8 million from TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. with three individuals fi lling the post in as many weeks. $2.6 million. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 209, NO. 35. THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, June, August, September, October, November and December, and two additional issues in April and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. 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2015

february 19 // N yc

Sophistication and streetwear influences are dominating the runways as New Coach Altuzarra York Fashion Week continues. Established designers are introducing fresh, new vocabularies while more than a few new and emerging labels have delivered exciting and impressive collections that are changing the fashion landscape. Outerwear is a key element in most collections, used as statement pieces or as confirmation of an overall stylistic direction. Fur is on the menu too, used liberally and creatively with outerwear, daywear and exciting evening looks.

CoaCh aLtuzarra Rough around the edges never looked as good as it Continuing to fine-tune his balance between sexy and sensual, does in Coach’s fall 2015 collection expressing its love Joseph Altuzarra calibrated an inquisitively romantic, if not affair with Americana. The charm of this collection’s edgy, collection. High slit skirts and deep plunging décolletés retro-Western flair is complemented by a masculine accented by high laced-boots provided the sexy; the sensuality sportswear influence that adds a sharp, sexy vibe. A came with unconventional juxtapositions of sheer fabric with nod to the seventies only re-enforces the glamorized suiting elements and plush long-haired furs. These contrary blue-collar collegiate references. This collection is fun pairings allowed a modern feminine vulnerability to shine and surprisingly contemporary in its egalitarian ways. through while conferring a strong established presence. His Here, shearling is the fur of choice with a multitude of ice blue fox chubby looked magical, but it was the oversized Hervé Léger by Max Azria Carolina Herrera textures, finishes and colors. A black leather moto jacket fox lapel collars on jackets and coats that provided an exciting overlaid on winter white shearling showed Coach’s new and dynamic effect. streetwise sensibility. CaroLina herrera hervé Léger by Max azria Carolina Herrera confirms her position at the top of Reinterpreting an iconic bandeau dress season after the fashion pantheon with her exceptional collection for season needn’t be a Sisyphean task. Aware of the fall 2015. This lineup emitted the chic sophistication and limitations, Hervé Léger by Max Azria steadily adds savoir-faire that have built her huge fan base. Referencing to their winning formula by keeping the label focused the mysterious beauty of water, its rippling waves and toward the future. This season, textured graphic shape-shifting effects, the collection revealed an unexpected embroideries inspired by Catalian cultural references modernity. Splashes of red throughout created a compelling lead the collection’s visual cues. Extraordinary detail is and exciting spark. Playing with visuals, shapes and textures, seen in the handiwork of glass beading, metallic hand- the collection read haute couture in both execution and studding and leather appliqués. Fur designs carry the concept. Fur not only added a luxurious touch to the overall texture and color story one step further. Favoring the message, it served as an intricate part of the narrative in moiré patterns of broadtail lamb, Max and Lubov Azria various appliqué details. Broadtail, with its natural moiré introduced edgy jackets to foil their body-conscious effect, was principally used to connote rippling waves, silhouettes. A black lamb moto jacket with a multi- whereas long-haired furs like fox were used to portray studded and beaded leather vest was a work of art. The cascading water through strips sewn at intervals onto textile softer side came in a precisely tailored zippered coat- plains. A sweater in sumptuous camel broadtail and winter dress in rich blue broadtail. white knit was easy and elegant, perfectly defining her client. Her cross-mink caplet with white fox trim and red Carmen Marc Valvo Prabal Gurung alligator detail was pure joy. CarMen MarC vaLvo New & Noteworthy Carmen Marc Valvo showed he is mad for plaid as he PrabaL gurung delivered one of his most exciting collections in recent Alexander Wang added ball-and-chain trim to a black memory. His plaids came in many luxe forms from Each season, Prabal Gurung engages and excites with his shearling moto jacket that defined urban chic. Moncler prints on rich fabrics to juxtaposed silk ribbons; woven curious take on the world at large. For fall 2015, mountain Grenoble brought a luxe edge to performance wear with plaids in embroidered beads and sequins to masterful climates and terrains helped form his vision. The result bold fur hats, boots and mittens. Opening Ceremony intarsia mink creations. Adding to the excitement was was a collection that is rather glamorous, even for seasoned introduced an impressive lineup of fur fun, making a bold his strong foray into men’s wear with a lineup that city folks. He has the unique ability to deliver sexy looks statement with an orange and black zebra intarsia rabbit perfectly complemented his women’s wear collection, without any aggressive nuances. Subtlety is key, whether in coat. Yigal Azrouël introduced geometric mink designs both reflecting a potent American sportswear stamp. his cuts, his use of sheer fabrics or his unexpected pairings Modern, sophisticated daywear and eveningwear in rich of sleek satins with rich, soft cable-knits. This collection in, well, several shades of grey. Sleeveless mink sweaters charcoals and blacks showcased his sharp tailoring and is a lovely mix of high and low for the contemporary, from Sally LaPointe defined easy elegance. A voluminous expanded his message. A black cross mink plaid stadium confident woman. Fur is utilized mainly as an accent, fox coat wrapped with a knit logo band by Hood by Air jacket confirmed that he has become a master of fur whether appearing as bold trims or full fur garments. His merged luxury with a strong streetwear vibe. design as did an extraordinary mink plaid cardigan. A forte comes in knowing how to play with fur’s texture, checkerboard fox chubby was pure fun. length and color to create a beautifully designed surface, such as his dégradé coat in mink and fox.

#FurNow www.furiNsider.com 4 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015 Saks’ McKee Makes Case for Heading Downtown {Continued from page one} tral rotunda, veiled by double- “It’s young families, guys in height brass fi ns at its perimeter A rendering of the interior of Saks Fifth Avenue in Brookfi eld Place. the finance industry, people that refl ect light into the store from out of town buying sec- and capture the sun’s path ond homes, very high-income through the day. He also cited families. That’s the key. A lot of the rotunda’s cylindrical marble those people don’t want to go tower housing an escalator, and uptown for a shopping experi- an amphitheater on two popu- ence. I don’t want to say there’s lated with mannequins. been a mass exodus [down- “Found has worked closely town], but New York is a tale of with Saks to develop a new two cities. There’s an uptown identity and unique shopping and a downtown. It’s a bit like experience, exuding luxury with London. There’s an east and a an understated palette of mate- west London,” said the British rials and innovative technol- McKee, who was at Harrods be- ogy,” said Kerry Mader, the re- fore Saks. tailer’s executive vice president Compared with other parts of of store planning and design. New York City, she On the mer- sees downtown as Marigay chandising front, having “a cooler, McKee “We’ve already edgier crowd of got 85 percent of people, more de- the matrix,” and termined shoppers there’s still room who don’t have as to “add, subtract, much time.” That divide and multi- means customer ply,” McKee said service has got in her chirpy, to be intensified optimistic man- for the downtown ner. “Really, ac- clientele and its cessories, shoes heavy concentra- and beauty will signers and brands on board. discernible to the customer,” ers, looking at the area. It’s very tion of busy fi- always be big driv- While editing for a downtown McKee said. “For us, it’s more interesting, new, uncharted ter- nancial workers AMBER DE VOS PHOTO BY ers. Men’s will be customer with different prefer- about brands and adjacencies ritory. We need to buy for cus- and young, time- a big driver, too. ences from uptown shoppers and the mix, than it is about tomers of tomorrow as well as pressed families. She portrayed Jewelry might be good there. We poses challenges, “It’s also a bit the business model.” customers of today.” the second Manhattan location have received a lot of interest” of fun” McKee said, and similar Saks downtown, McKee Adjacent to the Saks store, as being built for shopping effi - from jewelry fi rms. “We do want to merchandising stores in other stressed, “is more about being parent Hudson’s Bay Co. is leas- ciency, and rigged with technol- to focus on shoes. That’s a big markets like Boston where the a concept store with a very ing 400,000 square feet of offi ce ogy to improve service. “We are opportunity for us.” The store edit is more conservative and fluid design, and less about space in Brookfi eld Place to cre- defi nitely looking at express tai- will have a circular footprint in classic, and focused on designer. shops with big brand logos. It’s ate a central home offi ce for all loring,” she said, as an example. shoes and some other areas. Or Bal Harbour, Fla., where the more of a designer and con- of its business units scattered The three-level store in “A large denim department edit is skewed to the preferenc- temporary edit.” around Manhattan, including Brookfi eld Place, at 225 Liberty — that’s definitely something es of the large Latin American She acknowledged some du- the department store group, Street, will open in spring 2016. we are looking at as well,” she and Russian clientele. plication in the offering is to be Saks, Saks Off 5th, digital opera- It will sell beauty, accessories, added, noting that’s consistent “For downtown, it would be expected, with certain brands tions and HBC shared services. footwear, jewelry, women’s with the intention to exhibit the same premise while focus- planning their own boutiques Saks in Brookfield will be ready-to-wear and men’s wear, range in the merchandising, ing a lot more on contempo- in Brookfield or elsewhere close to a Saks Off 5th, which covering the major families of from affordable casual clothes rary with an element of design- in lower Manhattan. That’s will open at One Liberty Plaza, business that Saks specializes OK, too. Department stores, another Brookfield property, in. In that sense, it qualifies she said, should be “all about in fall 2017. Saks offi cials say as a full-line Saks. Asked if it mixing it up,” so if a custom- Off 5th and Saks Fifth Avenue would be a scaled-down version er comes to the store for one have different customer bases, of the 650,000-square-foot Fifth brand, they could stumble upon and generally don’t cannibalize Avenue fl agship, McKee replied, another label that they just sales from each other, though “I don’t think that’s a fair assess- might shop at Saks, even if it’s they also say cross-shopping is ment. It’s more of a Saks con- got a second point of distribu- apparent. In a handful of cases, cept store, like Colette in Paris tion nearby, outside Saks. Off-5th operates near Saks Fifth or Maxfi eld in L.A.” Food won’t be part of the of- Avenue, establishing precedent The design of the store has fering given the limited space for both being viable in close been approved, McKee said. and what Brookfield offers. proximity of each other. “It’s very avant-garde, very mod- “One thing Brookfi eld Place is There’s been speculation ern in its approach, simple in its not short on is gastronomy and that opening a Saks store down- approach,” she said. “It’s about hospitality,” McKee said. “That town was tied to the decision to celebrating the product and doesn’t mean we wouldn’t do a relocate the offi ces, though HBC allowing the product to shine A rendering of the exterior of the Brookfi eld Place store. pop-up with a Champagne bar chairman Richard Baker has through a minimalist environ- or serve at an event.” denied that and has said that ment with luxury detailing.” While downtown is rapidly initially, he explored downtown Richard Found, the found- to higher-priced tailored er,” McKee explained. “The developing and drawing a wave for just a Saks store, rather than er of Found Associates, the clothes. “It’s one of those things emerging French contempo- of retail that’s yet to open for offi ces or Off-5th. London-based architectur- where you’ve got to do low as rary brands very much fi t into the most part, store traffi c re- “We always wanted to have a al firm on the project, said, well as going high.” the downtown market.” Many mains a big question. “We don’t store downtown,” McKee said. “Unexpected encounters with For competitive reasons and of them, such as Sandro and know what’s going to happen,” “I believe you’ve got to have an striking architectural features” because there’s still flexibil- Maje, operate leased shops McKee admitted. “We can only uptown and downtown strategy. enhance the shopping experi- ity in determining the lineup, inside department stores, and tell you what we feel. I’ve spent Why wouldn’t we when down- ence. He cited a two-story cen- McKee declined to list the de- that’s fi ne by Saks. “It won’t be a lot of time looking at consum- town is growing so fast?”

The Capsule Capsule to Include Accessories Show exhibition will “Our move to Pier 94 repre- tor Cheryl Wischhover. Beauty Lab begin Sunday. By LISA LOCKWOOD sents a huge step forward in will also host Rudy’s Barbershop, what we are able to accomplish offering blowouts, bang trims and NEW YORK — Changes are in in the women’s market,” said co- styling to show attendees. store for Capsule, the high-end, founder Deirdre Maloney. “Our In response to buyer interest contemporary women’s exhibi- ability to accommodate more for more sundries, home goods tion, which takes place here from brands in a centralized loca- and stationery, Capsule has in- Sunday to Tuesday. tion will allow us to offer better, vited consultancy Sight Unseen The exhibition will relocate to more personalized service to re- to choose products for a section Pier 94 and will include Capsule tailers as we grow into the show featuring infl uential brands. Accessories, a new accessories we’ve always wanted to be.” In addition, the show will have show-in-show that will take place Another new feature will be Capsule Market, which is a cash- in a separate environment within Beauty Lab, a section focusing and-carry section with merchan- the show fl oor. There will be more on beauty and skin-care brands. dise to purchase on the spot. on Sunday at 9 a.m., moderated Jennifer Mankins from Bird than 200 ready-to-wear and 250 There will be a section of emerg- To begin the event, Capsule by Fashionista editor at large in Brooklyn and Jill Wenger, accessories brands showing at ing beauty and skin-care brands will host a panel discussion, Lauren Sherman. Guest panel- owner of Totokaelo, a design- Capsule and Capsule Accessories. selected by Fashionista beauty edi- “The Independent Mindset,” ists will include Steven Alan, oriented shop in Seattle. 2.5x7 (right)

WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015 5 Inside Christopher Kane’s fl agship. WWD.COM Galliano Appeals Dior Dismissal Ruling the designer’s bosses knew of his addic- By JOELLE DIDERICH tions as fraudulent. The verdict brought to three the PARIS — John Galliano’s lawyer has ap- number of cases Galliano has lost in pealed a decision by a Paris labor court French courts since his fi ring. rejecting the British designer’s claims In 2011, a criminal court found of wrongful dismissal after he was oust- him guilty of uttering racist and anti- ed from Christian Dior and his namesake house, John Galliano, John Galliano for making racist and anti-Semitic remarks in 2011. Chantal Giraud-van Gaver of Coblence & Associés has fi led an appeal against the ruling, which also ordered Galliano to pay a sym- bolic euro to both his former em- ployers, and to cover all their legal fees in the long-running case. “Given the deadlines for the Kane’s First Shop Opens on Mount St. Paris Court of Appeals, the case A long, stainless steel clothing rack should be heard in 2017,” she said By SAMANTHA CONTI shoots across the room’s far wall and via e-mail. leads to a big, circular staircase. The Galliano had asked for damages LONDON — Christopher Kane is the lat- staircase curls around a large, columnar ranging between 2.4 million euros est British designer to move into Mount hanging light fi xture, like a totem pole, and about 13 million euros, or $2.7 Street, joining fellow London-based made from glass cylinders. Downstairs is million to $14.8 million at current creatives Roksanda Ilincic, Nicholas home to more women’s wear, and Kane’s exchange, depending on how the Kirkwood, Roland Mouret, Solange men’s collection. court appraised his dismissal, ac- Azagury-Partridge and Jenny Packham “This is the fi rst time we will be able cording to Giraud-van Gaver. on the Mayfair thoroughfare. to present the entire universe of what we Galliano told a hearing in The shop, Kane’s fi rst ever, was de- do and interact directly with our custom- November that his bosses at Dior signed by him and the minimalist archi- er, really getting to know and understand and the Galliano fashion house tect John Pawson. The store will open them,” said Kane. were fully aware of his addic- today on the eastern The designer said tions to alcohol and medications. end of the street, not he admires Pawson’s Having sought treatment, he is far from Berkeley A look from work, and the archi- making a comeback as creative di- DEMARCHELIER PATRICK PHOTO BY Square, and next to the minimalist tect and his team rector of Maison Martin Margiela. Kirkwood’s fl agship. interior. “instantly under- Giraud-van Gaver had argued that Semitic insults. Last year, a commer- The unit, at 6-7 stood what I wanted Galliano’s dismissal should be con- cial court rejected a separate claim Mount Street, spans to achieve with the sidered null and void because it was for damages by Galliano’s company, 4,100 square feet over store.” The designer based on a preexisting medical condi- Cheyenne Freedom, following the ter- two fl oors, and boasts is planning to cel- tion. Jean Néret of Jeantet Associés, mination of its consultancy agreements a mix of street — and ebrate the opening the lawyer for Christian Dior and John with Christian Dior Couture SA in historic — details with a party at the end Galliano, dismissed the allegations that March 2011. such as corrugated of March. dressing-room walls Pawson, who fa- covered in soft velvet mously designed fabric, neon Perspex the Calvin Klein display boxes, and Collection store in Portland stone fl oors. New York in the mid- LOCATED IN THE WORLD'S FASHION The flagship is Nineties, said one of CAPITAL, LIM COLLEGE OFFERS YOU A housed in a former TIM JENKINS PHOTOSBY the consistent threads ONE-OF-A-KIND EDUCATION, ROOTED hair salon, and the building, like others running through Kane’s collections is IN REAL-WORLD EXPERIENCE. on the street, was built in the late 19th their architectural quality, “a preoccu- 800.677.1323 century, in Queen Anne revival style. pation with proportion, scale, geometry 12 E. 53rd St at 5th Ave The ground fl oor, which stocks women’s and construction detail.” wear, is fl ooded with natural light and He added he feels a natural affi nity has high ceilings, vast bay windows fi tted with the way Kane uses texture, pat- with bespoke sofas, and fl exible features. tern and new combinations of materi- Accessories are displayed on neon als to create something that is “pristine Perspex boxes and shelves — some of and modern, but also very sensuous. which are lit with LEDs — in green, Fashion is about emotional resonances pink or slate gray, while curved cloth- as much as it is about the physical de- ing rails on wheels have Perspex shells tails of cloth, cut, silhouette and tex- around them. Stainless steel door han- ture. The architecture — if you get it dles in half-moon shapes are by the late right — provides a context for these Japanese designer Shiro Kuramata. emotional resonances.” Fast Retailing Hits Its Stride {Continued from page one} “Some people tend to be worried Asked about potential acquisitions, about the Chinese economy, but the eco- Yanai said he would be interested in good nomic climate is worse in Japan than brands with a “compatible appeal across China,” he said. the world” but said the company’s organic Separately, Fast Retailing said growth will propel it in the near future. Wednesday it is strengthening oversight “Even with a 5 trillion yen goal, organ- of its suppliers. The company said it will ic growth is good enough from our per- step up factory monitoring efforts to cover spective,” he said through an interpreter. its entire textile supply chain by March Yanai expressed enthusiasm about 2016. It is also creating a hotline that Uniqlo’s prospects globally. He said he workers can call to report any problems is pleased with the retailer’s perfor- directly to the Japanese headquarters. mance in the United States and is look- Last month, SACOM, a Hong Kong- ing at opening stores in more cities such based advocacy group, issued a report as Seattle, San Diego and Houston over saying that employees at two of Uniqlo’s the next year or so. As of Jan. 31, Uniqlo Chinese suppliers, Dongguan Tomwell had 39 stores in the United States along Garment Co. Ltd. and Pacific (Pan Yu) the East and West coasts in cities includ- Textiles Holdings Ltd., were working ex- ing New York, Boston, Los Angeles and cessive hours in unsafe conditions, includ- San Francisco. The fi rst Uniqlo store in ing extremely high temperatures, poor ven- Chicago is set to open later this year. tilation and fl oors covered with sewage. In As for China, Uniqlo’s biggest market response, Fast Retailing said it launched outside Japan, Yanai downplayed the sig- its own investigation and warned the facto- nifi cance of the country’s economic slow- ries to improve working conditions. down. Uniqlo had 341 stores in China as — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS of January. FROM KELLY WETHERILLE 6 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015

Michael Kors: “How do you wear opulent on a regular basis,” Michael Kors mused Michael Kors Narciso Rodriguez Delpozo during a preview. He found the solution in his love of contrast. His autumnal oxymoron: opulent restraint. The concept is a very American idea, he noted, “whether it was Wallace Simpson back in the Thirties, Babe Paley at her height, Carolyn Bessette Kennedy. All of these women understood this idea, they knew how to play with the yin and the yang.” Yet, engaging though his conversation is, Kors may do himself a disservice by his frequent invocation of chic gals of yore. His salient point, about a constancy of American style of which he is a scion, can be misinterpreted as a case for retro, which it’s not. Sure, he has his references, who doesn’t? But Kors just might be the ultimate modernist. Not because he makes cool clothes derived from the street or because he experiments manically with silhouette or because his furs pop like magic out of a 3-D printer. Kors is a modernist because he grasps and embraces the real modern customer and designs to her needs with thoughtful panache. Along the way, he works a deft (and all too rare) skill, keeping his runway real-looking and interesting. To that extent, these were quintessential fashion editor clothes. Kors’ fall collection was runway reality at its most alluring. He showed both languid and tailored, the former in pretty bias dresses and sweater dressing to die for; the latter working that gender yin-yang crossover — tweeds, trousers, crisp shirts and especially the outerwear, including a trench-cape hybrid worthy of an ultrachic Sherlock. For all of the above, check the restraint box. In the opulent column, Kors’ fabrics were luxe, but often quietly so — the tony cashmeres and wools, the silk foulards. Not so a gold metallic dress and graphite caviar-beaded gown. And the breathtaking furs. With restraint appropriate to the designer’s premise, they came as cuffs, collars and muffl ers, and even as big cozy pockets on a sweater. But at times, restraint went delightfully AWOL, replaced by a huge fox robe, a damask intarsia mink and a fox coat worn over a sweater and lace skirt. This was one of a few looks in a gorgeous peacock blue that provided an injection of powerful color into a mostly earthy palette. For evening, Kors went wacky for a moment, with two black dresses, one Chantilly lace, one bias georgette, that looked as if they’d wandered over from another runway. No one’s in particular, but in their girly fussiness, Fall 2015 they didn’t look like Michael Kors — unlike the divine tuxedo gown and a pair of jeweled pajamas worn with a fox muffl er. Yin-yang — yes! New York Collections — BRIDGET FOLEY

Narciso Rodriguez: It would have been vivid element at a time, using a stretch, season, the Madrid-based designer rounded balloon sleeves on coats and nearly impossible to tell that Narciso body-stockinglike nude jersey top to transports us into the unusual, inventive blouses. Knits were a romantic explosion Rodriguez’s fall collection was largely show off the graceful cut of a pair of world that is his imagination. Always of texture: a gray mock neck had red inspired by Maharaja without hearing high-waisted pink crepe pants. art-informed, his collections blur the gathering and fringe that formed a fl oral it from the designer himself. It’s far The bullion embroideries were rich boundaries between reality and fantasy. pattern, while a crafty pink dress over a from his modernist style to play a but restrained, traced in black and rose Fall was no exception. neon-yellow turtleneck was striking in reference straight, particularly one gold over an illustrated fl oral motif on Australian artist Rhys Lee, whom its purity. Font’s black crepe dress with a associated with extravagance and a liquid bonded silk tank dresses cut Font described as “very sinister nude bodice and tulip skirt worn over a extreme decoration, two qualities at with sporty allure. Small-busted women, but colorful at the same time,” and pink velvet turtleneck showed restraint, odds with Rodriguez’s unadorned, rejoice — some of the slip styles were so Russian painter Andrey Remnev, who and a white maxidress with a textural streamlined aesthetic. Yet it was tiny and bare on top that anyone wearing creates a “modern interpretation of bright green bodice and corsagelike captivating to see his expert distillation more than an A cup needn’t bother. the Pre-Raphaelite spirit,” served as fl oral embellishment at the shoulders of the ornate visual traditions of Indian Rodriguez closed the show with inspiration. A stark runway lined with epitomized his dual inspiration. royalty — bold color, embroideries a majestic, modern proposition for leafl ess white trees was the ideal set — MAYTE ALLENDE and noble shapes — into fresh ideas evening: a white single-shoulder to showcase Lee’s infl uence on Font’s that completely belonged to him. bonded-silk top, bias cut and draped color palette — neon pink, lemon Boss Hugo Boss: When Jason Wu took on The collection beautifully delivered around the body like a spare sari yellow, Yves Klein blue — while the the role of women’s creative director feminine opulence for the purist. over black silk pants. It was rich in its designer’s constructions were a nod of Hugo Boss, charged with developing The show opened with a regal simplicity. A woman can have her cake to Remnev’s stylized depictions of a women’s presence for one of the silhouette: a sweeping black sleeveless and be sleek and urban, too. women. “The idea and purpose here is most storied men’s powerhouses in coat with contrasting ivory lining over — JESSICA IREDALE structure,” Font said. “When you look the world, he took on a considerable a clingy sheer jersey top and an A-line at the clothes they seem minimal, but challenge. Recent history indicates ivory skirt. Rodriguez introduced his Delpozo: At New York Fashion Week, one the patterns, the construction are very that it’s diffi cult — not impossible, but new elongated, sinuous look in his can expect to see collections of perfectly complicated.” diffi cult — for one designer to juggle the default colors before layering in more wearable clothes, perfectly well-made Minimal? Not quite, but one could demands of designing for two houses. daring hues in striking combinations. and sure-to-be retail successes — over make an argument for simple. Font Then there’s the matter of establishing Blush paired with black led to orange and over and over again. Thus, a Josep played with geometry and volume in the house’s feminine aesthetic. What and pink, then marigold and mint with Font show for Delpozo is like a fashion silhouettes that ranged from ample should it be, and how closely must it link deep aubergine. He highlighted one editor’s dream come true. Season after felt dresses with metallic appliqués to back to the men’s wear? 6 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015 7 WWD.COM Michael Kors: “How do you wear opulent on a regular basis,” Michael Kors mused Michael Kors Narciso Rodriguez Delpozo Boss Hugo Boss Anna Sui Jeremy Scott during a preview. He found the solution in his love of contrast. His autumnal oxymoron: opulent restraint. The concept is a very American idea, he noted, “whether it was Wallace Simpson back in the Thirties, Babe Paley at her height, Carolyn Bessette Kennedy. All of these women understood this idea, they knew how to play with the yin and the yang.” Yet, engaging though his conversation is, Kors may do himself a disservice by his frequent invocation of chic gals of yore. His salient point, about a constancy of American style of which he is a scion, can be misinterpreted as a case for retro, which it’s not. Sure, he has his references, who doesn’t? But Kors just might be the ultimate modernist. Not because he makes cool clothes derived from the street or because he experiments manically with silhouette or because his furs pop like magic out of a 3-D printer. Kors is a modernist because he grasps and embraces the real modern customer and designs to her needs with thoughtful panache. Along the way, he works a deft (and all too rare) skill, keeping his runway real-looking and interesting. To that extent, these were quintessential fashion editor clothes. Kors’ fall collection was runway reality at its most alluring. He showed both languid and tailored, the former in pretty bias dresses and sweater dressing to die for; the latter working that gender yin-yang crossover — tweeds, trousers, crisp shirts and especially the outerwear, including a trench-cape hybrid worthy of an ultrachic Sherlock. For all of the above, check the restraint box. In the opulent column, Kors’ fabrics were luxe, but often quietly so — the tony cashmeres and wools, the silk foulards. Not so a gold metallic dress and graphite caviar-beaded gown. And the breathtaking furs. With restraint appropriate to the designer’s premise, they came as cuffs, collars and muffl ers, and even as big cozy pockets on a sweater. But at times, restraint went delightfully AWOL, replaced by a huge fox robe, a damask intarsia mink and a fox coat worn over a sweater and lace skirt. This was one of a few looks in a gorgeous peacock blue that provided an injection of powerful color into a mostly earthy palette. For evening, Kors went wacky for a moment, with two black dresses, FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE one Chantilly lace, one bias georgette, that looked as if they’d wandered over WWD.com/ from another runway. No one’s in runway. particular, but in their girly fussiness, Fall 2015 they didn’t look like Michael Kors — unlike the divine tuxedo gown and a pair of jeweled pajamas worn with a fox muffl er. Yin-yang — yes! New York Collections — BRIDGET FOLEY RODRIGUEZ AND SCOTT PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; BOSS AND SUI BY ROBERT MITRA; DELPOZO BY JOHN AQUINO; KORS BY STEVE EICHNER BY JOHN AQUINO; KORS MITRA; DELPOZO BY ROBERT GIANNONI; BOSSRODRIGUEZ GIOVANNI AND SCOTT AND SUI BY PHOTOS BY

Narciso Rodriguez: It would have been vivid element at a time, using a stretch, season, the Madrid-based designer rounded balloon sleeves on coats and Not surprisingly, the Boss Hugo Boss the fusion of tailoring and technology. fi nish on a midcentury wooden chair. with Empire waists, Peter Pan collars, nearly impossible to tell that Narciso body-stockinglike nude jersey top to transports us into the unusual, inventive blouses. Knits were a romantic explosion concept is built on tailoring. That’s Going forward Wu must fi gure out how There were sweet hippie dresses printed bib details and ruffl ed sleeves. A Rodriguez’s fall collection was largely show off the graceful cut of a pair of world that is his imagination. Always of texture: a gray mock neck had red fi ne, but maybe not quite enough, at to marshal the considerable men’s wear- with folkloric fl orals and overalls in psychedelic “nursery rhyme”-inspired inspired by Maharaja without hearing high-waisted pink crepe pants. art-informed, his collections blur the gathering and fringe that formed a fl oral least for the runway. Wu has done a oriented strengths of Hugo Boss into a wallpaper jacquard. The clothes came in print was seen throughout, with its it from the designer himself. It’s far The bullion embroideries were rich boundaries between reality and fantasy. pattern, while a crafty pink dress over a game job of working the tailoring angle clear-cut, feminine vision for Boss. her preferred palette of purple, gold and mixed cast of rabbits, teddy bears, from his modernist style to play a but restrained, traced in black and rose Fall was no exception. neon-yellow turtleneck was striking in and the in-house technology that gives — B.F. black and the fi lmy fl owerchild stuff was rattles, hippos, mushrooms, elephants reference straight, particularly one gold over an illustrated fl oral motif on Australian artist Rhys Lee, whom its purity. Font’s black crepe dress with a him access to endless techniques. topped with all manner of great funky and hearts. One model wore a patent- associated with extravagance and a liquid bonded silk tank dresses cut Font described as “very sinister nude bodice and tulip skirt worn over a “In the atelier, there are no scissors. Anna Sui: After she killed time on furs, real and faux. Some of the best leather-quilted bonnet, just in case extreme decoration, two qualities at with sporty allure. Small-busted women, but colorful at the same time,” and pink velvet turtleneck showed restraint, Everything’s laser-cut,” he marveled a flight by watching the History were curly lamb jackets and vests, and the theme was unclear (and all the odds with Rodriguez’s unadorned, rejoice — some of the slip styles were so Russian painter Andrey Remnev, who and a white maxidress with a textural before his show. Thus inspired, Wu Channel’s “Vikings” series, Anna there were great Baja-esque knits, too. models wore low-heeled mary janes streamlined aesthetic. Yet it was tiny and bare on top that anyone wearing creates a “modern interpretation of bright green bodice and corsagelike layered an industrial motif onto the Sui became obsessed with the show It was a cozy, colorful affair fi t for a folky with colorful tights). Patent-leather captivating to see his expert distillation more than an A cup needn’t bother. the Pre-Raphaelite spirit,” served as fl oral embellishment at the shoulders tailoring. This gave the clothes graphic and its “sexy, racy gorgeous cast and snow-in. A cold-weather warrior goddess cropped-top-and-skirt sets had a of the ornate visual traditions of Indian Rodriguez closed the show with inspiration. A stark runway lined with epitomized his dual inspiration. impact, coats and dresses crafted setting.” The question at collection closed the show in a cream faux-fur cape playful sex appeal, while outerwear royalty — bold color, embroideries a majestic, modern proposition for leafl ess white trees was the ideal set — MAYTE ALLENDE from blocks of fabrics, often featuring time was, how to use it? She happens with Viking embroidery over a dreamy, came in color-blocked patchwork and noble shapes — into fresh ideas evening: a white single-shoulder to showcase Lee’s infl uence on Font’s precision arcs and curves. These to be an interiors enthusiast (with a silver-sequined maxidress. The look was leather and faux-fur versions. that completely belonged to him. bonded-silk top, bias cut and draped color palette — neon pink, lemon Boss Hugo Boss: When Jason Wu took on were particularly bold in charcoal recently launched home collection topped by a knit Viking horn hat, because For men, the designer continued his The collection beautifully delivered around the body like a spare sari yellow, Yves Klein blue — while the the role of women’s creative director gray and “traffi c cone orange.” The in Japan), as were the Vikings’ fellow it ain’t over until, well, you know. — J.I. sporty aesthetic with mixed-pattern feminine opulence for the purist. over black silk pants. It was rich in its designer’s constructions were a nod of Hugo Boss, charged with developing fabric blocking proves an important Scandinavians with their fertile button-downs, quilted plastic overall The show opened with a regal simplicity. A woman can have her cake to Remnev’s stylized depictions of a women’s presence for one of the treatment; in keeping with the midcentury period, Marimekko and Jeremy Scott: For fall, Jeremy Scott shorts, onesies in a heart-shaped print, silhouette: a sweeping black sleeveless and be sleek and urban, too. women. “The idea and purpose here is most storied men’s powerhouses in industrial motif, Wu developed several other purveyors of bold textiles — started thinking about dolls. “Not dolls and a two-faced teddy-bear blue knit. coat with contrasting ivory lining over — JESSICA IREDALE structure,” Font said. “When you look the world, he took on a considerable corrugated materials that inserted which lend themselves nicely to out of the box,” he clarified while Scott collaborated with artist a clingy sheer jersey top and an A-line at the clothes they seem minimal, but challenge. Recent history indicates interesting texture into the mix. He fashion. And Sui had a field day sitting backstage, a vision of calmness Rosson Crow on the fi nal looks, a trio ivory skirt. Rodriguez introduced his Delpozo: At New York Fashion Week, one the patterns, the construction are very that it’s diffi cult — not impossible, but also worked in moments of softness, mingling these Nordic references with as chaos unfolded a few feet away in his of voluminous, clownlike dresses new elongated, sinuous look in his can expect to see collections of perfectly complicated.” diffi cult — for one designer to juggle the in crepe sheaths with intricacies of her signature genre of bohemian rock star-studded front row. “But loved and painted on actual canvas, which he default colors before layering in more wearable clothes, perfectly well-made Minimal? Not quite, but one could demands of designing for two houses. cut and more fl uid dresses in what and mixing a feel-good soundtrack of cherished dolls.…You play with them, described as art pieces. It was hard daring hues in striking combinations. and sure-to-be retail successes — over make an argument for simple. Font Then there’s the matter of establishing appeared to be textured knits. Abba songs to go with the show. you cut their hair, you paint on them.” not to smile as the models paraded Blush paired with black led to orange and over and over again. Thus, a Josep played with geometry and volume in the house’s feminine aesthetic. What Some looks were appealing, some Sui knows who she is as a designer On his runway, Scott sought to down the runway. Mommy, can I have and pink, then marigold and mint with Font show for Delpozo is like a fashion silhouettes that ranged from ample should it be, and how closely must it link swung cumbersome. In total, they and doesn’t pretend to be anyone else. channel an all-encompassing “toddler the whole collection? deep aubergine. He highlighted one editor’s dream come true. Season after felt dresses with metallic appliqués to back to the men’s wear? lacked a strong point of view beyond Her collection felt as natural as the lifestyle” via baby-doll minidresses — KRISTI GARCED 8 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015

Milly Lela Rose Nanette Lepore Ovadia & Sons

FALL 2015 NEW YORK COLLECTIONS

Milly: Michelle Smith went bold surfaced on crisp sporty jackets, dresses— but added drama with houndstooth pattern that had followed, which included this season for her Milly col- tailored coats, tweed knits and beaded embellishment, billowed “pajama references,” Shimon mink moto jackets, a metallic lection, not only with vibrant even gowns. Feathers — beaded, sleeves and capelet dresses. said, but was made from a wool- jacquard wrap dress and a colors but also with graphic sil- printed and the real thing — Rich metallic brocade coats cashmere fl annel. great shearling and black houettes. Backstage before her adorned jersey tops, wool coats and velvet lace tops conveyed Outerwear was also leather mock-neck jacket. show, the designer said she was and embellished silk gowns. a dark, edgy glamour, as did prevalent, with a pebble — MAYTE ALLENDE inspired by “postmodern graph- The lineup’s real beauty was several looks featuring black calfskin bomber jacket, a long ic art and music,” and her point the loose, feather-beaded gray wool fringe. “It started with two-tone parka with grosgrain Sophie Theallet: Sophie Theallet of view came through loud and cashmere pullover worn with more of an interiors feeling; detail and stretch-mesh lining, found her inner gypsy for fall. clear, enhanced by a cool light a tulle skirt. But for the most the feeling that you’re in a and a belted wool-mohair- “It’s about the freedom; it’s installation on the runway. part, Rose’s strongest looks glamorous, cozy place,” Lepore cashmere overcoat among the more the way of thinking,” she Smith took risks, and at times were feather- and fringe-free: said. Her silk, plaid fuchsia standouts. There was also an explained during a preview of they paid off. She played with an ivory guipure long-sleeved tie-neck blouse with matching assortment of skiwear, which her sultry collection. “Nothing geometric shapes draped on the dress and a fl ared version in wide-leg trousers best captured ranged from the classic sweater bohemian.” body, such as triangular-pleat a felted lace knit, as well as the independent, free-spirited to a faux-fur vest and calfskin The fi rst look, a deep-brown, skirts, circular coats and rect- a turquoise mohair coat over vibe for which she aimed. down jacket. high-neck leather dress with a angular tops. The outerwear a magenta-and-lilac fl oral fi l — KRISTI GARCED “We want to dress America,” shot of hot pink and a ruffl ed was terrifi c, in particular the coupé dress. It all just proves Shimon said. “Not too safe, but hemline, set the tone for the bonded-melton sculptural coats, that even in fashion, letting go Ovadia & Sons: Continuing to not too fashion-y, either.” rest of the daywear pieces, done crosshatch cloque cocoon jack- of an idée fi xe can sometimes be push the envelope, Ovadia & — ALEX BADIA in jewel hues: vibrant patterned ets and shearling vests. In a nod a good thing. — BOBBI QUEEN Sons stretched its traditional cashmere sweaters with leather to the Eighties, there were neon aesthetic for fall while staying Yigal Azrouël: Drawing inspiration and guipure lace accents, chic scribble prints on everything Nanette Lepore: Nanette Lepore’s true to its roots. “It’s luxurious, from modernists such as Man tailoring and plenty of ruffl es. from pants to a gown, as well muse was a posh rebel, “a but in a casual way,” said Ray, Kazimir Malevich and Moving into evening, Theallet as a croc-embossed oversize woman who’s pushing her way Shimon Ovadia, who designs Bauhaus, Yigal Azrouël designed emphasized fl uid dresses and T-shirt. Some of the origami- out there in the world and the collection with his twin an assertive collection for fall. skirts slit up to there worn with inspired pieces were a little too making things happen,” she brother, Ariel. “It’s dressing up, The graphic nature of their work high-neck peplum blouses. A tricky, however, and could easily said backstage. “It’s a great but in a supereasy way.” was translated into smart looks pair of Oscars-worthy shimmer- have been edited out of the long time to be a woman right now.” Track pants were shown with linear details and patterns, ing gold dresses concluded the and repetitive show. Rendering her collection in with tailored jackets, and a including a black-and-white show, and a tailored blue suit in — ANTONIA SARDONE peachy pink, smoky teal and belted cashmere overcoat with lambskin and python patchwork metallic blue and gold jacquard deep raspberry with burnished a removable coyote collar was moto jacket paired with an alpaca added a little rock ’n’ roll to the Lela Rose: Lela Rose had quite a gold detailing throughout, paired with a gray hoodie and wrap skirt and a black wool sexy, feminine lineup. — K.G. fi x on fringes and feathers. They Lepore kept her silhouettes Japanese tricot sweatpants. jacquard suit with stripe details. showed up, one way or another, sleek and simple — tailored The Ovadias also offered a An amethyst and gray color- Rachel Zoe: “I’m always on almost all of her silhouettes. suiting with military-inspired completely unconstructed blocked mink coat paved the influenced by the Sixties and Long or sheared fringes gold buttons, printed silk sheath lounge suit in a black-and-white way for the textural feast that Seventies — it’s kind of like, my REESE, WYLDE AND THEALLET PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; ROSE, LEPORE AND AZROUËL BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MILLY BY STEVE EICHNER; BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MILLY GEORGE CHINSEE; ROSE, LEPORE AND AZROUËL BY REESE, WYLDE AND THEALLET PHOTOS BY SCOTT RUDD BY VALVO JOHN RODINAQUINO; BANICA; MARC LAUREN BY BY GREG KESSLER; MOHAPATRA MITRA; ZOE BY ROBERT & SONS BY OVADIA 8 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015 9 WWD.COM

Milly Lela Rose Nanette Lepore Ovadia & Sons Yigal Azrouël Sophie Theallet Rachel Tracy Reese Zoe

Bibhu Mohapatra

Thomas Carmen Greg Wylde Marc Lauren Maison Valvo

FALL 2015 FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE NEW YORK WWD.com/ COLLECTIONS runway.

Milly: Michelle Smith went bold surfaced on crisp sporty jackets, dresses— but added drama with houndstooth pattern that had followed, which included thing,” said Rachel Zoe at her As models emerged through cashmere — a draped back coat designer-price-point collection, swagger that’s younger and more this season for her Milly col- tailored coats, tweed knits and beaded embellishment, billowed “pajama references,” Shimon mink moto jackets, a metallic presentation on Tuesday. The a fog-fi lled runway, that over a silk crepe dress, a cocoon Thomas Wylde Maison, made its fun than in past collections. lection, not only with vibrant even gowns. Feathers — beaded, sleeves and capelet dresses. said, but was made from a wool- jacquard wrap dress and a stylist-turned-designer kept feminine power came alive in peajacket with a sweater and runway debut. Plaids just may be the key — colors but also with graphic sil- printed and the real thing — Rich metallic brocade coats cashmere fl annel. great shearling and black things simple and chic, working Reese’s outerwear, particularly midcalf skirt — set the bar high It was inspired by “oil, water he even offered them in a mink houettes. Backstage before her adorned jersey tops, wool coats and velvet lace tops conveyed Outerwear was also leather mock-neck jacket. a mostly black- and-white her patterned blanket ponchos for sophisticated chic. And while and sex, but not in a vulgar way,” cardigan and a stadium coat. show, the designer said she was and embellished silk gowns. a dark, edgy glamour, as did prevalent, with a pebble — MAYTE ALLENDE palette into polished looks. A with fringe, vegan-leather furs, other than as outerwear, Thomas said backstage before Bordering on a schoolgirl spirit inspired by “postmodern graph- The lineup’s real beauty was several looks featuring black calfskin bomber jacket, a long fitted collarless jacket with gold studded coats and suede usually make for a clunky way her show. She worked in a clean were charcoal-plaid matelassé ic art and music,” and her point the loose, feather-beaded gray wool fringe. “It started with two-tone parka with grosgrain Sophie Theallet: Sophie Theallet buttons and matching shift, trenches, some accented with of dressing, Mohapatra cut his palette of black and white — blazers with white shirts, a of view came through loud and cashmere pullover worn with more of an interiors feeling; detail and stretch-mesh lining, found her inner gypsy for fall. worn over a white turtleneck, fur. Reese fused traditional short pullovers to give them a plus two prints, a gold-and-white gored felt skirt and cashmere clear, enhanced by a cool light a tulle skirt. But for the most the feeling that you’re in a and a belted wool-mohair- “It’s about the freedom; it’s set the mood, and a Mod cape African motifs — her color sporty ease and no bulk. A gray oil pattern and a black-based paperboy pants. For evening, installation on the runway. part, Rose’s strongest looks glamorous, cozy place,” Lepore cashmere overcoat among the more the way of thinking,” she version followed. palette featured vibrant astrakhan top with ruby crepe water motif — which she used Valvo added sequins to a black Smith took risks, and at times were feather- and fringe-free: said. Her silk, plaid fuchsia standouts. There was also an explained during a preview of But it was Zoe’s party Maasai-inspired reds and blues trousers, and another in black on dresses, tops and pants. What stadium coat over a cashmere they paid off. She played with an ivory guipure long-sleeved tie-neck blouse with matching assortment of skiwear, which her sultry collection. “Nothing dresses in allover sequins — a as well as antelope prints and mink over an ivory crepe and about the sex? Look closely at sweater with cropped cash- geometric shapes draped on the dress and a fl ared version in wide-leg trousers best captured ranged from the classic sweater bohemian.” short version worn over a black tribal patterns — with a hint of onyx leather jumpsuit, stayed the water print and you can see mere trousers. And of course, body, such as triangular-pleat a felted lace knit, as well as the independent, free-spirited to a faux-fur vest and calfskin The fi rst look, a deep-brown, mock-neck and a long version Seventies. “I couldn’t help it,” flatteringly close to the body. a naked woman. gowns — pleated in a silk chif- skirts, circular coats and rect- a turquoise mohair coat over vibe for which she aimed. down jacket. high-neck leather dress with a worn with fl ats and a fur jacket Reese admitted. “I’m a child of The heat factor of wearing furs What Thomas did best fon illusion plaid or volumi- angular tops. The outerwear a magenta-and-lilac fl oral fi l — KRISTI GARCED “We want to dress America,” shot of hot pink and a ruffl ed — that were the big statements the Seventies. But I didn’t want worn inside is another matter. was her anything-but-basic nous in a knockout silk gazar was terrifi c, in particular the coupé dress. It all just proves Shimon said. “Not too safe, but hemline, set the tone for the of the show. “I get asked to do it to come off as a retro show.” There were plenty of mink outerwear: an asymmetrical plaid ballgown skirt, white bonded-melton sculptural coats, that even in fashion, letting go Ovadia & Sons: Continuing to not too fashion-y, either.” rest of the daywear pieces, done more and more evening, I love It didn’t, not with modern coats, too, in sapphire with curly goat-hair sleeveless coat, silk charmeuse shirt and black crosshatch cloque cocoon jack- of an idée fi xe can sometimes be push the envelope, Ovadia & — ALEX BADIA in jewel hues: vibrant patterned it,” she said as a beautiful white updates like suede culottes, indigo, as well as in blue or silver a mink bomber and an oversize cashmere sweater. — B.Q. ets and shearling vests. In a nod a good thing. — BOBBI QUEEN Sons stretched its traditional cashmere sweaters with leather long-sleeved column gown with macro zipper detailing, broadtail and Russian sable. knit poncho with a chunky gold to the Eighties, there were neon aesthetic for fall while staying Yigal Azrouël: Drawing inspiration and guipure lace accents, chic an open back and rhinestone abstract houndstooth knits It was unfortunate when chain neckline — all paired Greg Lauren: Apocalyptic nomad scribble prints on everything Nanette Lepore: Nanette Lepore’s true to its roots. “It’s luxurious, from modernists such as Man tailoring and plenty of ruffl es. belt and sleeve detail strutted and tech accessories, such Mohapatra moved away from his with stretch leather pants meets campy sportswear from pants to a gown, as well muse was a posh rebel, “a but in a casual way,” said Ray, Kazimir Malevich and Moving into evening, Theallet by. We’d love to see more. — M.A. as headphones provided by simpler fare and picked up some for a sexy, urban vibe. She pretty much sums up Greg as a croc-embossed oversize woman who’s pushing her way Shimon Ovadia, who designs Bauhaus, Yigal Azrouël designed emphasized fl uid dresses and Monster, worn on many of the seasonal trends — ostrich feathers, also dabbled in eveningwear Lauren’s fall lineup. Pushing T-shirt. Some of the origami- out there in the world and the collection with his twin an assertive collection for fall. skirts slit up to there worn with Tracy Reese: Tracy Reese girls. There was a lot going laser-cut chiffons, trains and tails with a lineup of little black his deconstructed aesthetic, he inspired pieces were a little too making things happen,” she brother, Ariel. “It’s dressing up, The graphic nature of their work high-neck peplum blouses. A channeled an urban warrior on in Reese’s vast lineup, but — all of which we already saw he dresses enhanced with crystal offered clever, wearable options tricky, however, and could easily said backstage. “It’s a great but in a supereasy way.” was translated into smart looks pair of Oscars-worthy shimmer- princess for fall. “We wanted much of it was beautiful. — K.G. can do without. — B.Q. embroideries, perfect for her for men and women to take have been edited out of the long time to be a woman right now.” Track pants were shown with linear details and patterns, ing gold dresses concluded the the collection to feel strong,” edgy clientele. — A.S. them from day to evening. Most and repetitive show. Rendering her collection in with tailored jackets, and a including a black-and-white show, and a tailored blue suit in she said backstage postshow. Bibhu Mohapatra: It seemed Thomas Wylde Maison: Rock ’n’ roll memorable for her was a great — ANTONIA SARDONE peachy pink, smoky teal and belted cashmere overcoat with lambskin and python patchwork metallic blue and gold jacquard “She’s all of us — especially abundantly clear from the chic is what Paula Thomas does Carmen Marc Valvo: Carmen Marc military green and shearling deep raspberry with burnished a removable coyote collar was moto jacket paired with an alpaca added a little rock ’n’ roll to the as New York women, we’re moment Bibhu Mohapatra began best. She’s built a successful Valvo has not only gone sportier maxi coat worn with army pants Lela Rose: Lela Rose had quite a gold detailing throughout, paired with a gray hoodie and wrap skirt and a black wool sexy, feminine lineup. — K.G. on the street a lot — and I’m his show that he knows how to brand doing so, and for fall she with his day looks, but he also and a henley. And for him: a fi x on fringes and feathers. They Lepore kept her silhouettes Japanese tricot sweatpants. jacquard suit with stripe details. trying to fi gure out how to be make his ladies look great with moved forward by dividing her seems to have gotten the hang rugged, fur-hooded black parka showed up, one way or another, sleek and simple — tailored The Ovadias also offered a An amethyst and gray color- Rachel Zoe: “I’m always comfortable, be fi erce, be a sleek, no-fuss dresses, luxurious collection: What was her core of making evening clothes that paired with loungy long john- on almost all of her silhouettes. suiting with military-inspired completely unconstructed blocked mink coat paved the influenced by the Sixties and little bit sexy and get the things outerwear, strong color mixes line will now be called Thomas have a tailored ease and a lot style pants and cashmere arm Long or sheared fringes gold buttons, printed silk sheath lounge suit in a black-and-white way for the textural feast that Seventies — it’s kind of like, my done that we need to get done.” and plenty of polish. Midnight Wylde Los Angeles, while her of attitude. The result is a new warmers. — M.A. REESE, WYLDE AND THEALLET PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; ROSE, LEPORE AND AZROUËL BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MILLY BY STEVE EICHNER; BY STEVE EICHNER; BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MILLY GEORGE CHINSEE; ROSE, LEPORE AND AZROUËL BY REESE, WYLDE AND THEALLET PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MILLY GEORGE CHINSEE; ROSE, LEPORE AND AZROUËL BY REESE, WYLDE AND THEALLET PHOTOS BY SCOTT RUDD BY SCOTT RUDD BY VALVO JOHN RODINAQUINO; BANICA; MARC LAUREN BY BY VALVO JOHN RODINAQUINO; BANICA; MARC LAUREN BY BY GREG KESSLER; MOHAPATRA MITRA; ZOE BY ROBERT GREG KESSLER; & SONS BY OVADIA MOHAPATRA MITRA; ZOE BY ROBERT & SONS BY OVADIA 10 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015 WWD.COM Houghton: Katharine Hepburn is an eternal muse for Katharine Polk, who always looks to the late Houghton Jenny Pamella Roland actress’ tomboy-chic style for inspiration. But for Packham fall, Polk also explored military references with her palette of army green, burnt orange, navy and black peppered with gold hardware and strong shoulder pad details. The lineup, heavier on casual separates than in seasons past, was full of drapy robe coats and maxidresses in lightweight wool jersey, shearling and leather bomber jackets, tailored wool suiting in a windowpane pattern and Mongolian fur accents, which added texture throughout. She also introduced knitwear for fall — her mélange yarn, a cashmere and wool blend made in New York, created a subtle camoufl age effect — and collaborated with Doc Martens and Swarovski on tough biker boots with crystallized cap toes. — KRISTI GARCED

Jenny Packham: Known for her beautifully ornate red- carpet gowns, Jenny Packham took inspiration for fall from “a quick visit to the Prado Museum in Madrid.” Captivated by the work of Raimundo de Madrazo y Garreta — known for painting society ladies who were beautiful, confi dent and fl irty — she used color and texture to translate the artist’s aesthetic without it looking too costumey. Packham worked her signature embroidered gowns in silhouettes ranging from sexy-slinky to full-skirted with coquettish slits. She also mixed things up a bit style-wise, adding cropped palazzo pants, jumpsuits and rompers as well as several show-stopping sequined coats that gave a 3-D dimension to the collection. — ANTONIA SARDONE

Pamella Roland: It was all about toned-down dressing at Pamella Roland for fall — at least as toned down as eveningwear can get. Inspired by Paris in the Seventies, as well as Alicia Drake’s book “The FALL 2015 Beautiful Fall,” Roland opened her show with a tribute to Yves Saint Laurent’s Le Smoking tuxedo suit. Then out came an assortment NEW YORK of coats, all with beautiful details such as shearling COLLECTIONS insets and delicate beading. Other key pieces included an embellished sweater, a fur cape and suede skirts. But Roland fans need not fret: She showed plenty of pretty dresses, from an ombré fl oral jacquard sheath to velvet-fl ocked gowns. — A.S.

Libertine: Surrealism, futurism, exuberance and Rosetta Getty India — all these things influenced creative Libertine Veronica director Johnson Hartig as he presented a festive Beard and lively Libertine collection. “It’s about powerful women having fun,” he said backstage. And fun it was. The majority of the lineup focused on beautiful outerwear, because, according to Hartig, “our coats are what sell.” Standout styles came embellished, printed and even patched in quirky motifs. Other whimsical items included a “Hello Lovely” telephone-motif intarsia sweater, a graphic fur cape and delicately embroidered dresses that were inspired by India. Yes, some prints were a bit cartoonish, but that is part of Libertine’s charm. Hartig also showed a few men’s looks, following the same motif as the woman’s collection, but with a punk fl air. — A.S.

Rosetta Getty: Working from a traditional luxury premise, Rosetta Getty used subtle, idiosyncratic cuts — long culottes, circular shirts, a gown with rounded sleeves and wrap piqué shirtdresses — to push the boundaries of classic with interesting elegance. Getty was smart about her details, such as buttons that looked like gold cuff links, an apron vest with golden fox fur down the front, and a gorgeous braided wrap belt, that elevated and personalized outfi ts. Rich bronzed camel, black and deep green cast a tony attitude enlivened by fl ashes of gold on whisper-thin lamé layering pieces that transformed understated looks with practical glamour. — JESSICA IREDALE

Veronica Beard: One of the hardest things for a young fashion brand or designer to do is establish an identity, and yet in less than five years sisters-in-law Veronica Miele Beard and Veronica Swanson Beard have done just that — and managed to keep things fresh. This time the duo favored elevated sportswear “for the woman who is trying to do it all.” Their fall lineup, which they said was inspired by the great camps of the Adirondacks, FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE proved they have a keen eye for cool outerwear and layered looks. Among the most eye-catching WWD.com/ were a blue plaid mohair coat with a shearling runway. collar and a wool camoufl age jacket assertively paired with a burgundy sweater, plaid shirt and navy-and-burgundy striped pants. “It’s all about a refi ned, rustic elegance,” said Veronica Miele Beard.

— MAYTE ALLENDE OF CHARLIE ENGMAN GEORGE CHINSEE; GETTY AND ROLAND BY COURTESY RODIN BANICA; PACKHAM PHOTOS BY HOUGHTON AND LIBERTINE February 19, 2015 Subhead

BETTING ON VEGAS FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ Activewear, Tailoring menswear-news. Drive Trade Shows Optimism reigned as the XXXX XXXX XXXXX activewear trend continued XXXXX XXXXX XXXX to dominate, while tailoring XXXX XXX XXXXX XXX X and casualwear also starred. XXX XXXX XXX XXX XX” Feeling by JEAN E. PALMIERI — XXXXX XXXXXX LAS VEGAS — Relaxed and formal. Those were the two key themes for fall at the men’s shows here this week as the ath-leisure trend continued to dominate while one of the Gray most-promising opportunities is the continued blending of tailoring and casualwear, spurred on by the proliferation of performance fabrics and Although ath-leisure technology across all categories. Above all, the ex- hibitions proved male consumers, especially the younger ones, are now fi rmly into fashion. continues to dominate “The male consumer is more self-confi dent in purchasing for himself,” said Patty Leto, senior vice the men’s market, president of merchandising for the Doneger Group. Tim Bess, the company’s men’s fashion trend analyst, there’s an emerging said: “It’s all about ath-leisure.” This translated into textured knit tops, updated sweaters, layering pieces, joggers, knit blazers, dressed-up denim and perfor- trend of more mance outerwear for fall. “It’s everything from true active to street active,” he said. traditional men’s Retailers agreed. “Ath-leisure and activewear are going to keep pushing the market for fall,” said Jack Matzer, senior vice president and general wear staples. merchandise manager of Stage Stores. Jan Clevenger, executive vice president and Leading the way general merchandise manager of men’s for Belk, said the company had “an amazing year in sports- are head-turning wear” in 2014, driven in large part by activewear brands such as Under Armour and other labels that embraced the ath-leisure trend. “We sold every topcoats in classic piece of fl eece we had on the fl oor,” she said. At the shows, the Belk team was looking for men’s fabrics and more joggers to bolster the assortment on the fl oor already, as well as updated looks in underwear, socks and sportswear. elongated silhouettes. Doug Ewert, chief executive offi cer of The Men’s Wearhouse, was similarly optimistic. “We For more trends from like what we’re hearing from our customers,” he said. “They’re responding to newness: Joseph Abboud, made-in-America and better-quality the Las Vegas shows, goods.” He said the stores are experiencing “a nice increase in traffi c,” and average unit transac- see pages MW4 tions are up. “There are a lot of exciting trends in the business,” he said. “We’re upbeat about 2015 and MW5. — we’ve got momentum.” On the vendor side, Ronny Wurtzburger, presi- dent of Peerless Clothing, said the mood among his customers was good, and he was especially hopeful about the rise in interest in seasonal fab- rics such as fl annel for suits and lamb’s wool or corduroy for sport coats. “It forces a man to buy twice a year,” he said. “We need to get back to sea- sonal clothing.” Other key fall trends include olive as a must-have color, he said, as well as true over- coats with updated details such as faux leather trim, and navy tuxedos. “Sport coats are also on fi re,” he said. “Men are dressing up more than ever before.” Representing the more-casual end of the spec- trum, Tommy Bahama reported strong holiday business and a solid start to spring. “We’re really happy with sales of men’s and women’s sportswear and swimwear,” said Doug Wood, president and chief operating offi cer. For spring, the brand is offering a “decidedly more upscale push,” added Rob Goldberg, senior vice president of marketing. “The economy is healthier and people are look- ing more for a point of view, not price,” Wood said. Among the new offerings from the brand are men’s Bespoken’s coat and pima cotton shirts, an updated footwear collection Slate & Stone’s sweater and a revamped women’s sportswear collection. and pants, all in wool. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS

PHOTO BY BRYAN HARAWAY; MODEL: SONNY ALEX HENTY/WILHELMINA;BADIA STYLED BY HARAWAY; BRYAN PHOTO BY FROM ARIA HUGHES MW2 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015 Men’s Week

Subhead Paul & Joe BRAND: Paul & Joe DESIGNER: Sophie Mechaly Max ’n AESTHETIC: Mechaly looked to Chester Mongolia, Marrakech and South America to create a look the brand is calling “urban, ethnic chic.” Incorporating luxe fabrics such as wool, cashmere and VEGAS lambskin into Paul & Joe staples was another important theme. KEY STYLES: Knit ponchos, reversible lambskin coats, wool sweaters, and the brand’s popular FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE button-up shirts with clever prints. VANGUARDS PRICES: Shirts are $180, suits are WWD.com/ $600, lambskin coats are $1,900, menswear-news. New and noteworthy brands filled the floors at the and knit ponchos are $364. Las Vegas men’s shows this week. Here are a few highlights XXXX XXXX XXXXX from Project, Liberty Fairs, Capsule, Agenda and MRket. Jose Real XXXXX XXXXX XXXX — Alex Badia, Luis Campuzano, XXXX XXX XXXXX XXX X Aria Hughes and Jean Palmieri XXX XXXX XXX XXX XX” — XXXXX XXXXXX PROJECT William Canada BRAND: 2(x)ist by Will Goose BRAND: Jose Real AESTHETIC: The underwear expert Leather DESIGNER: Jose Real Goods has branched out beyond its core AESTHETIC: Designed in Spain competency and is now offering and manufactured in Italy, Jose swimwear and an ath-leisure Real’s footwear specializes in collection as it moves toward BRAND: Canada Goose offering unique colors made Headline Goes becoming a full lifestyle brand. DESIGN INSPIRATION/AESTHETIC: from crust leathers, a skin that President and chief executive Canada Goose drew from its has been tanned but not finished. officer Tom Speight said both heritage for fall, but refreshed For fall, the three-year-old brand Dek goes here for this dek goes here for this product categories are targeted its classic pieces to target the introduced a sporty line of dress to the man seeking more fashion- “urban outdoorsman.” The sneakers along with a lower- dek goes here for this. forward merchandise that brand introduced its first print, priced contemporary collection. continues to be functional. a graphic camouflage, and slate, KEY STYLES: The best-selling KEY STYLES: The swimwear offers a new color that’s a brighter take pointed-toe oxford from the graphic stripes in wovens and on military green. Nordve collection, two-tone knits in a variety of cuts, ranging KEY STYLES: This outerwear brand oxfords from the Amsterdam from a volley short to a retro showcased two new styles: the collection and a monk-strap jogger. The ath-leisure collection Carson coat, an update on its best- brogue from the Berlina line. includes a harem pant, cropped selling Chateau parka, and the PRICES: $298 to $395. cargo and fashionable tops. McMillan coat, a street-influenced PRICES: Bottoms in the ath-leisure piece with a cleaner silhouette AG collection are $58 to $88 while and furless hood. swimwear averages $55 but can go PRICES: Outerwear retails from up to $155. $650 to $800 and lighter-weight jackets are $350 to $550.

BRAND: William by Kent and Will Leather Goods Curwen DESIGNER: William Adler AESTHETIC: The Eugene, Ore.-based leather goods brand is branching out into the hat business for fall. The line for men and women is being manufactured in the company’s 2(x)ist new workshop in Eugene from a combination of beaver and European hair pelts with leather detailing. Adler partnered with California-based hatmaker Gregory Westbrook on the collection, all of which is custom made-to-order. PRICES: From $395 to $895.

BRAND: Kent and Curwen DESIGNER: Simon Spurr AESTHETIC: Since Spurr signed on as creative director to revamp the British heritage brand, BRAND: AG its look has changed DESIGNER INSPIRATION/AESTHETIC:

dramatically. Instead AG continues to expand its Y A W

of tweeds and plaids, assortment to present a lifestyle A R Spurr is offering up a offering. The brand offers easy- A H

more contemporary to-wear pieces in comfortable AN RY B

and minimal collection fabrics such as the Vanguard

centered around jogger trousers with cargo pockets, BY IER

technical fabrics and a French terry pullovers and L E

more-active aesthetic. lambskin leather moto jackets. For AT E But he retained the fall, AG’s denim story is clean with O history of the label, which a skinny silhouette. CK SHO

was founded in 1926 as KEY STYLES: AG previewed the D

a cricket brand, by using Bowery, a new denim style with AN

Kent & Curwen’s signature a skinnier leg; 360 denim, jeans UEY hexagon logo in everything with four-way performance

from sweater patterns to a stretch, and the Dylan style in a B L NSF, quilted leather bomber. new stretch leather. PT PRICES: Wovens are $175 to PRICES: Denim retails from $200 $225, a quilted puffer is $795, to $250, leather pieces are $700 to blazers are $995 and up and $800, joggers are $198, and wool

topcoats are $1,695 to $2,995. knits are $298. ALL PHOTOS EXCE MW2 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015 Men’s Week Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015 MW3

Subhead Paul & Joe BRAND: Paul & Joe BRAND: Bluey BRAND: Alder New York DESIGNER: Sophie Mechaly Max ’n DESIGNER: Hiroki Yahagi Shockoe Atelier AESTHETIC: The three-year-old AESTHETIC: Mechaly looked to Chester AESTHETIC: The Tokyo-based Yahagi Brooklyn-based label founded by Mongolia, Marrakech and South is a surfer who’s always searching David Krause and Nina Zilka offers America to create a look the for the perfect wave. He’s brought a casual luxury collection targeted brand is calling “urban, ethnic that same intense purpose to his to the Millennial seeking traditional chic.” Incorporating luxe fabrics apparel brand, which centers men’s wear pieces with an updated such as wool, cashmere and mainly around shirts but also point of view. The brand was just VEGAS lambskin into Paul & Joe staples includes some pants and a few key nominated for an FGI Rising Star was another important theme. outerwear pieces. award for men’s wear. KEY STYLES: Knit ponchos, KEY STYLES: A serious parka is KEY STYLES: A traditional blue- reversible lambskin coats, wool made from Cordura Ballistic and-white striped dress shirt sweaters, and the brand’s popular material so it won’t rip or tear. has been tweaked with wool FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE button-up shirts with clever prints. There are also short-sleeve sleeves; wool nylon windowpane VANGUARDS PRICES: Shirts are $180, suits are shirts that look like traditional pants “feel like loungewear but WWD.com/ $600, lambskin coats are $1,900, Japanese kimonos, but they’re are completely sartorial,” Zilka menswear-news. New and noteworthy brands filled the floors at the and knit ponchos are $364. fi lled with down; a lightweight, said. There are also elongated long-sleeve quilted shirt in a sweaters and shirts for layering Las Vegas men’s shows this week. Here are a few highlights hooded loop-wheeled fabric, and and a long wool overcoat with matching sweatpants. a men’s shirting fabric used for XXXX XXXX XXXXX from Project, Liberty Fairs, Capsule, Agenda and MRket. PRICES: T-shirts are $50, the lining. Jose Real outerwear is $500 and the PRICES: Shirts retail at $198, XXXXX XXXXX XXXX — Alex Badia, Luis Campuzano, Ballistic parka is $700. trousers for around $370 and the coat is $845. XXXX XXX XXXXX XXX X Aria Hughes and Jean Palmieri Alder XXX XXXX XXX XXX XX” Bluey New York — XXXXX XXXXXX PROJECT William Canada BRAND: 2(x)ist by Will Goose BRAND: Jose Real AESTHETIC: The underwear expert Leather DESIGNER: Jose Real Goods has branched out beyond its core AESTHETIC: Designed in Spain competency and is now offering and manufactured in Italy, Jose swimwear and an ath-leisure Real’s footwear specializes in collection as it moves toward BRAND: Canada Goose offering unique colors made Headline Goes becoming a full lifestyle brand. DESIGN INSPIRATION/AESTHETIC: from crust leathers, a skin that President and chief executive Canada Goose drew from its has been tanned but not finished. officer Tom Speight said both heritage for fall, but refreshed For fall, the three-year-old brand Dek goes here for this dek goes here for this product categories are targeted its classic pieces to target the introduced a sporty line of dress to the man seeking more fashion- “urban outdoorsman.” The sneakers along with a lower- LIBERTY dek goes here for this. forward merchandise that brand introduced its first print, priced contemporary collection. BRAND: Max ’n Chester continues to be functional. a graphic camouflage, and slate, KEY STYLES: The best-selling DESIGNER: Peter Trainor Knickerbocker KEY STYLES: The swimwear offers a new color that’s a brighter take pointed-toe oxford from the AESTHETIC: Trainor’s family has a BRAND: Shockoe Atelier Mfg. Co. graphic stripes in wovens and on military green. Nordve collection, two-tone long history in the apparel industry: DESIGNER: Anthony Lupesco knits in a variety of cuts, ranging KEY STYLES: This outerwear brand oxfords from the Amsterdam His grandfather was a tailor and his AESTHETIC: Designer Anthony from a volley short to a retro showcased two new styles: the collection and a monk-strap mother was a designer in England. Lupesco, who aims to pair jogger. The ath-leisure collection Carson coat, an update on its best- brogue from the Berlina line. The three-year-old Max ’n Chester tailored pieces with denim, is includes a harem pant, cropped selling Chateau parka, and the PRICES: $298 to $395. label is centered around comfort inspired by American heritage cargo and fashionable tops. McMillan coat, a street-influenced and luxe fabrications, but with a and Italian luxury. PRICES: Bottoms in the ath-leisure piece with a cleaner silhouette AG central focus on tailoring. KEY STYLES: Founded by father-son collection are $58 to $88 while and furless hood. KEY STYLES: A wool sport coat team Pierre and Anthony Lupesco, swimwear averages $55 but can go PRICES: Outerwear retails from has 5 percent Tencel to add Shockoe Atelier, which started up to $155. $650 to $800 and lighter-weight softness; matching pants have a three years ago, produces all of its jackets are $350 to $550. fully tailored waist with a peak denim in Richmond, Va. The brand on the back of the waistband is moving into tailored pieces for BRAND: William by Kent and and a tapered fi t. There are also fall, which include soft-shoulder Will Leather Goods Curwen basic T-shirts updated with an jackets, alpaca car coats and shirts. DESIGNER: William Adler asymmetrical seam, a baseball PRICES: Shirts are $250; jackets BRAND: Naadam AESTHETIC: The Eugene, Ore.-based jacket and sweatshirts. are $1,200 to $1,500, and denim is DESIGNER: Hadas Saar leather goods brand is branching PRICES: T-shirts start at $80, $275 to $450. AESTHETIC: This New York-based out into the hat business for fall. The sweatshirts are $125 to $150 and knitwear brand, which launched line for men and women is being the wool suit jacket is $500. BRAND: Knickerbocker Mfg. Co. in 2013, ethically sources fabrics manufactured in the company’s DESIGNER: Andrew Livingston and materials from Mongolia, 2(x)ist new workshop in Eugene from Krammer AESTHETIC: Livingston Kenya and India by investing in a combination of beaver and & Stoudt manufactured private-label these countries’ manufacturing European hair pelts with leather pieces out of his Brooklyn factory facilities. Cofounder Matthew detailing. Adler partnered with before creating his own line. Scanlan said the brand is California-based hatmaker His collection of tried-and-true targeted to the “urban nomad.” Gregory Westbrook on the men’s wear basics has a modern For fall, Naadam introduced collection, all of which is sensibility with vintage infl uences. shirts made from denim sourced custom made-to-order. KEY STYLES: Short-sleeve Henley in Varanasi, India. PRICES: From $395 to $895. shirts, wool straight-leg trousers, KEY STYLES: Knit camoufl age BRAND: Krammer & Stoudt melton wool sport coats and ponchos, cashmere jackets with BRAND: Kent and Curwen DESIGNER: Mike Rubin waxed canvas jackets with rubberized buttons, sweater coats DESIGNER: Simon Spurr AESTHETIC: Rubin was born and blanket-striped linings. with toggles and denim button-ups. AESTHETIC: Since Spurr raised in Huntington Beach, PRICES: Shirts retail from $195 to PRICES: $395 to $1,600. signed on as creative Calif., and although he and $250; basic knits are $45 to $75; {Continued on page MW4} director to revamp the his wife Courtenay Nearburg, vests are $250 to $350, and jackets British heritage brand, BRAND: AG managing director, have relocated are $300 to $495. SeaGreen Naadam its look has changed DESIGNER INSPIRATION/AESTHETIC: to New York to be closer to the

dramatically. Instead AG continues to expand its Y heart of the men’s contemporary A

W CAPSULE of tweeds and plaids, assortment to present a lifestyle A market, the brand’s aesthetic R Spurr is offering up a offering. The brand offers easy- A remains the same: “West Coast BRAND: SeaGreen H

more contemporary to-wear pieces in comfortable AN cool meets New York precision.” DESIGNER: Masanaka Sakao RY B and minimal collection fabrics such as the Vanguard KEY STYLES: Rubin’s surf, skate AESTHETIC: The three-year- centered around jogger trousers with cargo pockets, BY and punk rock infl uences are old brand has an image that IER technical fabrics and a French terry pullovers and L being applied to a collection that centers around the culture on E more-active aesthetic. lambskin leather moto jackets. For AT is targeted to an older guy who the coast in Los Angeles with its E But he retained the fall, AG’s denim story is clean with O still wants to dress cool, but age- cozy collection of knitwear and history of the label, which a skinny silhouette. CK appropriate. Key pieces include outerwear that’s produced in SHO was founded in 1926 as KEY STYLES: AG previewed the D a boiled Japanese wool needle Japan from Japanese fabrics. a cricket brand, by using Bowery, a new denim style with AN punch coat with a shearling KEY STYLES: Hoodies in waffl e knits

Kent & Curwen’s signature a skinnier leg; 360 denim, jeans UEY collar and toggle closure and and cotton jersey and sweaters with hexagon logo in everything with four-way performance a “luxe sweat suit” of brushed Native American prints. The brand from sweater patterns to a stretch, and the Dylan style in a B L NSF, double-face cotton joggers with a also branched out into coats this quilted leather bomber. new stretch leather. PT matching jacket. season, offering up a herringbone PRICES: Wovens are $175 to PRICES: Denim retails from $200 Prices: The luxe sweat suit jacket jacquard as one option. $225, a quilted puffer is $795, to $250, leather pieces are $700 to is $425 and the pants are $300; PRICES: Knitwear sells for $300 to blazers are $995 and up and $800, joggers are $198, and wool overcoats are $820 to $850, and a $400, hoodies are $120 to $200 and

topcoats are $1,695 to $2,995. knits are $298. HARAWAY BRYAN BY ATELIER AND SHOCKOE BLUEY ALL PHOTOS EXCE NSF, ALL PHOTOS EXCEPT leather bomber is $1,350. outerwear is $500 to $700. 2x5 (left) 2x5 (right)

MW4 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015 Men’s Week

Bliss and BRAND: PVH Corp. Mischief DESIGNER: Licensed x NSF dress shirts and neckwear from a bevy of brands and TREND SETTERS designers including Calvin Klein, Van Heusen and others allow Lacoste the corporation to offer a variety of fi ts, styles and price points. PVH Corp. Shearlings KEY STYLES: The color indigo is a key push for all brands for development, which is a Matiere fall in dress shirts, which are also signature, Shandalove elevated being infused with performance Strand pieces with interesting attributes such as stretch. David washes and details. Sirkin, president of dress shirts, KEY STYLES: Loose knit sweaters {Continued from page MW3} said the message will be called with tie-dye details, cotton twill BRAND: Bliss and Mischief x NSF out on every brand, which will joggers, mixed fabric T-shirts and DESIGNER: Jamie Haller include a small, removable tag on quilted denim jackets. AESTHETIC: For the second time, the front with the word “indigo” PRICES: Sweaters are $100; joggers NSF has collaborated with Bliss on it. Neckwear is being designed range from $90 to $120, and and Mischief, a Los Angeles- to complement the blue-hued jackets are $160. based brand known for updating shirts, with many in solid colors. vintage pieces with chain-stitch PRICES: Chaps starts at $45 while BRAND: Swear London embroidery. The collection, Calvin Klein dress shirts DESIGNER: Taka Iizuka which is being sold exclusively at retail for $89.50. AESTHETIC: The London- Barneys New York for spring, is based footwear inspired by the California desert brand has built and offers classic Western details. AGENDA a reputation KEY STYLES: The capsule collection BRAND: Strand for creating features NSF’s chambray shirts, DESIGNER: Scot chunky denim jackets and military Shandalove platform parkas decorated with Bliss AESTHETIC: Swear London shoes, but and Mischief ’s Southwestern- Shandalove, founder has streamlined its infl uenced embroidery. of men’s wear brand Matiere, aesthetic over the past few years Prices: Shirts are $595; denim wanted to launch a lower-priced and is now targeting the U.S. Color-blocked ranges from $695 to $795, and line and did so under the Strand market. Current U.S. customers Underwear parkas are $995. label. The debut collection include Intermix, Barneys and includes more-accessible American Rag. reinterpretations of pieces that KEY STYLES: Leather oxfords with MRKET did well for Matiere. Instead of contrasting insoles and outsoles, BRAND: I.C. Richard Choi I.C. investing in expensive fabric high-top sneakers with Neoprene DESIGNER: Richard Choi Richard details, micro-suede high tops Choi AESTHETIC: The brand’s with zipper closures and oxfords sport coats are centered with camoufl age printed soles. Belsta around knits. “They PRICES: $150 to $285. have the structure of a sweater,” Choi said. “There’s too much of the investigative pieces in its pages, same out there, so we do where does the magazine fi t in? a lot of knits.” “There’s a difference between a KEY STYLES: Sport coats in newspaper feature and a magazine printed jerseys, indigo- MEMO PAD story. There’s a certain way of dyed denim and fl annel, structuring narrative,” Silverstein as well as jacquard knit ANOTHER DAY, ANOTHER and Merrill Lynch. said, while conceding that in order coats and hand-burnished REDESIGN: The New York Times “The overlap is very minimal. to differentiate his title, his “vision” leather jackets. Sunday Magazine has yet another I would defi ne them both as is to make the magazine a “more PRICES: Sport coat prices Strand new look and direction under luxury magazines,” said senior literary” read à la The New Yorker. begin at $395 and go up to editor in chief Jake Silverstein, vice president and advertising “The way that we kind of look at $1,500 for a leather bomber. who took the helm in May. The publisher Andy Wright, explaining it is The New Yorker on one side, redesigned magazine makes its that T isn’t a competitor, as it and Vanity Fair on the other,” the debut today, along with a publisher said. “The New podcast called The Ethicists, Yorker is obviously known which is produced in for great literary writing, partnership with Slate. Vanity Fair for beautiful Pursuant to Bankruptcy Court Order, Prior to Silverstein’s photography, not so much for appointment, editor Hugo literary writing. We’re sort of all assets of C. Wonder, LLC Lindgren, who was dismissed in the middle of that, bringing seven months earlier, was in great literary writing, under fi re for the editorial photography and design.” must be sold!! direction of the title, which In order to accomplish had been losing advertising the literary bit, Silverstein th dollars to sister glossy, T: has added a poetry section, Bid deadline March 9 !! The New York Times Style which will be edited by Magazine. Silverstein, who poet Natasha Trethewey. It arrived at the Times from will accompany a rotating Texas Monthly, told WWD column on one of the four that he has set out to create subjects: photography a more “luxurious” reading penned by Teju Cole, money experience, without focusing by Adam Davidson, clothing on stories about luxury, i.e. written by Slate’s Troy T’s bread and butter. The Patterson and nature by editor explained that this Helen MacDonald. Other means putting more of an sections include the “Lives” emphasis on photography, The redesigned Sunday magazine will be unveiled. section, which will feature paper stock and high-end an “as told to” page that content, which will include showcases eclectic stories by more literary features and poetry. publishes 15 times a year to the non-writers told to the magazine’s The magazine’s logo also is Sunday magazine’s 52 times. reporters, as well as a “First slightly updated and moved back Silverstein emphasized that Words” page on commonly used to the center of the cover. The point: “It’s not about them [T] eating words or phrases. For more informati on, contact: fi rst issue is certainly heavier our lunch. We’re actually eating When asked if the literary push, compared with many of the the same lunch. They are getting a plus the serious features, deters Stephen Marott a at (212) 818-1118 orsmarott [email protected]; anemic issues of recent months, bunch of ad pages. That’s actually more high-end advertisers, Wright B. Lee Fletcher at (212) 818-1555 or blfl [email protected]; with 220 pages, 121 of which are helpful to us.” He didn’t say how. said that 15 of the 52 issues are ads. In the initial redesigned Beyond any rivalry between themed to lighter subjects such as Or issue, very few of the ads are the two in-house titles, a more “food” or “great performances.” ones that would appear in T. They pertinent question is the place of “A great story is a great story,” Brian Ryniker at (212) 790-5899 or [email protected] include First Republic, Patron, the Sunday magazine itself. As the Silverstein said. Cadillac, Diesel, Bank of America Times features more longer form, — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD PHOTO BY JOHNS PKI/SPLASH NEWS/CORBIS PHOTO BY 2x5 (left) 2x5 (right)

MW4 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015 Men’s Week Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2015 MW5

Bliss and BRAND: PVH Corp. CWST Drumohr Boulezar Mischief DESIGNER: Licensed Modern x NSF dress shirts and neckwear from a bevy of brands and TREND SETTERS designers including Calvin Klein, Van Heusen and others allow Lacoste the corporation to offer Statement a variety of fi ts, styles and price points. PVH Corp. Shearlings Beanies KEY STYLES: The color indigo is a key push for all brands for development, which is a Matiere fall in dress shirts, which are also signature, Shandalove elevated being infused with performance Strand pieces with interesting Turtlenecks attributes such as stretch. David washes and details. Sirkin, president of dress shirts, KEY STYLES: Loose knit sweaters {Continued from page MW3} said the message will be called with tie-dye details, cotton twill BRAND: Bliss and Mischief x NSF out on every brand, which will joggers, mixed fabric T-shirts and DESIGNER: Jamie Haller include a small, removable tag on quilted denim jackets. Skeve AESTHETIC: For the second time, the front with the word “indigo” PRICES: Sweaters are $100; joggers NSF has collaborated with Bliss on it. Neckwear is being designed range from $90 to $120, and Hudson and Mischief, a Los Angeles- to complement the blue-hued jackets are $160. Jeans based brand known for updating shirts, with many in solid colors. Textured vintage pieces with chain-stitch PRICES: Chaps starts at $45 while BRAND: Swear London embroidery. The collection, Calvin Klein dress shirts DESIGNER: Taka Iizuka Topcoats which is being sold exclusively at retail for $89.50. AESTHETIC: The London- Barneys New York for spring, is based footwear inspired by the California desert brand has built and offers classic Western details. AGENDA a reputation KEY STYLES: The capsule collection BRAND: Strand for creating features NSF’s chambray shirts, DESIGNER: Scot chunky J. Lindeberg denim jackets and military Shandalove platform parkas decorated with Bliss AESTHETIC: Swear London shoes, but and Mischief ’s Southwestern- Shandalove, founder has streamlined its infl uenced embroidery. of men’s wear brand Matiere, aesthetic over the past few years Graphic Color-blocked Destroyed Prices: Shirts are $595; denim wanted to launch a lower-priced and is now targeting the U.S. Prints Moto ranges from $695 to $795, and line and did so under the Strand market. Current U.S. customers Underwear parkas are $995. label. The debut collection include Intermix, Barneys and includes more-accessible American Rag. reinterpretations of pieces that KEY STYLES: Leather oxfords with MRKET did well for Matiere. Instead of contrasting insoles and outsoles, BRAND: I.C. Richard Choi I.C. investing in expensive fabric high-top sneakers with Neoprene DESIGNER: Richard Choi Richard details, micro-suede high tops Native American- Choi AESTHETIC: The brand’s with zipper closures and oxfords Inspired Jewelry Chamula sport coats are centered with camoufl age printed soles. Belsta around knits. “They PRICES: $150 to $285. have the structure of a sweater,” Choi said. Faribault Woolen Mill Co. “There’s too much of the investigative pieces in its pages, Man of Blankets same out there, so we do where does the magazine fi t in? a lot of knits.” “There’s a difference between a THE WEEK JIMMY FALLON: B+ KEY STYLES: Sport coats in newspaper feature and a magazine printed jerseys, indigo- MEMO PAD story. There’s a certain way of dyed denim and fl annel, structuring narrative,” Silverstein He has good volume as well as jacquard knit ANOTHER DAY, ANOTHER and Merrill Lynch. said, while conceding that in order and the appropriate amount of hair Shades coats and hand-burnished REDESIGN: The New York Times “The overlap is very minimal. to differentiate his title, his “vision” He has an impeccable product to keep it leather jackets. Sunday Magazine has yet another I would defi ne them both as is to make the magazine a “more moisturizing and facial Of Green Strand textured and shiny. PRICES: Sport coat prices new look and direction under luxury magazines,” said senior literary” read à la The New Yorker. regime with hardly any begin at $395 and go up to editor in chief Jake Silverstein, vice president and advertising “The way that we kind of look at wrinkles for a man in his $1,500 for a leather bomber. who took the helm in May. The publisher Andy Wright, explaining it is The New Yorker on one side, 40s — and his youthful Watch out for redesigned magazine makes its that T isn’t a competitor, as it and Vanity Fair on the other,” the spirit shines through. overplucking. debut today, along with a publisher said. “The New podcast called The Ethicists, Yorker is obviously known The matching which is produced in for great literary writing, The contrast satin peak black satin partnership with Slate. Vanity Fair for beautiful lapel is the right width, hand-tied bow Pursuant to Bankruptcy Court Order, Prior to Silverstein’s photography, not so much for allowing for a bit of tie works well appointment, editor Hugo literary writing. We’re sort of drama, but without with the tux. all assets of C. Wonder, LLC Lindgren, who was dismissed in the middle of that, bringing being costumey. seven months earlier, was in great literary writing, The shirt is a under fi re for the editorial photography and design.” A hint of a James Bond bit too casual. For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. must be sold!! direction of the title, which In order to accomplish pocket square would have A hidden had been losing advertising the literary bit, Silverstein added a touch of sexiness. placket would th dollars to sister glossy, T: has added a poetry section, Bid deadline March 9 !! elevate the The New York Times Style which will be edited by outfi t. Check out Magazine. Silverstein, who poet Natasha Trethewey. It arrived at the Times from will accompany a rotating He’s probably the new DIGITAL Texas Monthly, told WWD column on one of the four “The Tonight Show” sample size, but that he has set out to create subjects: photography this tuxedo has version of a more “luxurious” reading penned by Teju Cole, money host gained fame on PATTERNS, SAMPLES, been altered to PRODUCTIONS experience, without focusing by Adam Davidson, clothing his body. This Full service shop to the trade. “Saturday Night Live,” Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 on stories about luxury, i.e. written by Slate’s Troy would have The T’s bread and butter. The Patterson and nature by which celebrated its been a perfect premier editor explained that this Helen MacDonald. Other moment to wear means putting more of an sections include the “Lives” 40th anniversary this a French cu‹ destination emphasis on photography, section, which will feature The redesigned Sunday magazine will be unveiled. week. Fallon revisited and an elegant for the fashion paper stock and high-end an “as told to” page that set of cu‹ links. content, which will include showcases eclectic stories by his famous duet with industry’s Real Estate, more literary features and poetry. publishes 15 times a year to the non-writers told to the magazine’s He could The magazine’s logo also is Sunday magazine’s 52 times. reporters, as well as a “First See U Soon www.see-u-soon.fr Business Opportunities, Justin Timberlake have gone French fashion feminine garment slightly updated and moved back Silverstein emphasized that Words” page on commonly used Expanding in U.S. market with a patent and Help Wanted listings. to the center of the cover. The point: “It’s not about them [T] eating words or phrases. on the show and Seeking experienced Sales Rep with leather shoe. lady’s fashion apparel experience For more informati on, contact: fi rst issue is certainly heavier our lunch. We’re actually eating When asked if the literary push, he also seemed to and valuable customer relationships POST YOUR LISTINGS ONLINE NOW! compared with many of the the same lunch. They are getting a plus the serious features, deters The skinny Contact Michelle Han 626-582-1618; 626-644-3660 FASHIONCAREERS.MARKET.ADICIO.COM Stephen Marott a at (212) 818-1118 orsmarott [email protected]; anemic issues of recent months, bunch of ad pages. That’s actually more high-end advertisers, Wright have absorbed some straight pants B. Lee Fletcher at (212) 818-1555 or blfl [email protected]; with 220 pages, 121 of which are helpful to us.” He didn’t say how. said that 15 of the 52 issues are are the right ads. In the initial redesigned Beyond any rivalry between themed to lighter subjects such as fashion tips from width to keep Or issue, very few of the ads are the two in-house titles, a more “food” or “great performances.” the entertainer. him looking ones that would appear in T. They pertinent question is the place of “A great story is a great story,” slender. Brian Ryniker at (212) 790-5899 or [email protected] include First Republic, Patron, the Sunday magazine itself. As the Silverstein said. Cadillac, Diesel, Bank of America Times features more longer form, — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD PHOTO BY JOHNS PKI/SPLASH NEWS/CORBIS PHOTO BY JOHNS PKI/SPLASH NEWS/CORBIS PHOTO BY