PRZEWODNIKGUIDEBOOK TURYSTYCZNY GUIDEBOOK

Invitation to Suwałki 4 Table General Information 6 About the city 7 of content Location 7 How to get to Suwałki 8 History and traditions 12 History of the city at the Czarna Hańcza 13

Project Coordinator: Dorota Bucka (Amistad sp. z o.o.), Suwałki architecture 17 Magdalena Sierocka (UM Suwałki) Arts and customs 25 Translation: Maciej J. Jabłoński Famous sons and daughters of Suwałki 31 Editor: Aurelia Hołubowska Technical proofreading: Barbara Gąsiorowska Sightseeing and cultural events 36 Graphic design, typesetting: Michał Tincel Maps: Sylwia Żmuda, arch. UM Suwałki Suwałki Cultural Paths 37 Cover photo: arch. UM w Suwałkach Cultural institutions 67 Print: Comernet Cultural events 75 Attractions for children 77 Publisher: Stay Active in Suwałki 79 Sports and recreational facilities 84 The city of Suwałki Bike paths and trails 94 ul. Mickiewicza 1, 16-400 Suwałki Phone no. 87 562 80 00, [email protected],www.um.suwalki.pl Around Suwałki 96 In cooperation with the District Museum in Suwałki and with the Wigry National Park 97 assistance of the State Archive in Suwałki Suwałki Landscape Park 101 Other attractions of the Suwałki Region 107 Practical information 114 Public transport 115

Publishing: Parking lots 115 Amistad sp. z o.o. Accommodation 115 pl. Na Groblach 8/2, 31-101 Kraków Food 116 Phone no. / fax: 12 422 99 22 e-mail: [email protected], www.amistad.pl Useful addresses and phone numbers 118 Shopping and souvenirs 120 First edition, Suwałki 2020 Events calendar 120 ISBN 978-83-61494-54-6 Index 125

Invitation Dear Reader, thank you for choosing our guide. We hope that this concise but very informative publication will help you discover one of the most charming and beautiful regions of Poland. Through this guide, we want to encourage you to take a closer look at Suwałki, its attractions and tourist of- fering. We would like to show you around our town and the region, and take you to both well- and little-known places. We want this guide to be a pleasant and practical compan- ion both for tourists visiting our region, and for locals taking a stroll through their town - a go-to source of information on all things related to Suwałki. The fi rst chapter describes Suwałki’s unusual location and provides useful tips on convenient ways to get there. On sub- sequent pages, you will read about the history and architec- ture of Suwałki, the local traditions and famous people who to Suwałki were born in the city. The chapter on local attractions and cultural offering includes suggested walking routes, descrip- tion of tourist trails, buildings and facilities, and the most im- portant cultural events. For people preferring to spend their free time exercising, the chapter Stay Active in Suwałki pro- vides comprehensive information on the local sports and rec- reation facilities, as well as a number of interesting places around the city, and the attractions of Wigry National Park and Suwałki Landscape Park. The fi nal chapter of the guide provides practical information, such as the addresses and phone numbers of accomodation facilities, restaurants and bars, and the schedule of events, in order to make your Su- wałki experience as convenient and memorable, as possible. We hope that the information in this guide will make your stay in our scenic region a pleasant and memorable one, and perhaps help you fall in love with it...

4 5 UśMich the Bear, photo: K. Mierzejewski About the city 01

The city is committed to transborder co- About the city operation with the neighbouring countries, and maintains close contacts with a number Suwałki is the largest city and informal capital of sister cities: Grande-Synthe in France, of the Suwałki Region, and the second largest Alytus and Marijampolė in Lithuania, Waren city – after Białystok – of Podlasie Province. in Germany, Võru in Estonia, Chernyak- It is also the seat of the district authorities. hovsk in the Russian Kaliningrad Oblast, General The population of Suwałki is around 70 thou- and Notodden in Norway. Furthemore, Su- sand, with Poles living next door to Lithuani- wałki partners with the Latvian Amata Mu- ans, Roma and Russian Old Ritualists. nicipality, the Belarussian cities of Grodno Information Even if you are just passing through this and Vawkavysk, Poti in Georgia, and Ter- part of Poland, it is worth making a stop in nopil in the Ukraine. Suwałki and see the old town, taking one of the Suwałki Cultural Paths (see p. 37) Location following the town’s Classicist architecture, or the many cultures and religions of the Suwałki are situated in the Augustów Plain region. Suwałki also has a number of art at ca. 170-190 m above mean sea level. galleries and museums with fascinating ex- The city’s area is 65.5 square kilometres, hibitions for visitors of all ages. of which 70% is occupied by greenery, in- Suwałki has a large grid of bike paths cluding two forest complexes: the Szwaj- and is also located along the Green Velo caria forest (459 hectares) and the Suwałki East of Poland Cycling Trail. Plenty of Forest (323 hectares). The Czarna Hańcza sports and recreational facilities will keep river runs through Suwałki along a 13-km exercise enthusiasts happily occupied. section. Every year, the city holds a number of cul- Due to its location near the border of tural events, the most prominent being the three countries – Belarus, Lithuania and Suwałki Blues Festival. the Russian Kaliningrad Oblast – Suwałki The city’s location makes it the perfect are located at junction of key transport base for trips around our region. Plenty of routes connecting Western and Southern accommodation options, as well as broad Europe with the Baltic states and Scandi- cultural and recreational offering, make Su- navia. The city has been dubbed the gate- 01 wałki an important place on the tourist map way to the East and especially in recent of Poland. years, Suwałki has certainly become one.

6 7 How to get to Suwałki 01

– Zambrów – Łomża – Grajewo – Au- ◗ in order to enter the Russian Kalinin- In order to travel to other parts of Belarus, How to get gustów – Suwałki, grad Oblast, you will need valid pass- you will need a valid passport and a visa. to Suwałki ◗ route no. 2 (road no. 61): Warsaw – Le- port and visa. The visa application may gionowo – Pułtusk – Ostrołęka – Łomża be submitted to the nearest Russia Visa Bus Car – Grajewo – Augustów – Suwałki, Application Centre (Olsztyn, Gdansk), Bus connections to Suwałki from the ma- There are two major international transport ◗ route no. 3 (roads no. S8, E67 and S61): the Consulate General of Russia in Po- jor cities in Poland are serviced mainly by routes: Warsaw – Wyszków – Ostrów Mazowiec- land, or via a tourist agency; PKS Nova (phone no.: +48 875662763, ◗ from Berlin through Warsaw to Sankt ka – Zambrów – Białystok – Suchowola ◗ if you are driving from Suwałki to Bela- +48 703302505, www.pksnova.pl). Bus Petersburg, – Augustów. rus, the most convenient border crossing station in Suwałki is located in the city ◗ from Warsaw to Helsinki. is the Raigardas – Privalka Checkpoint centre at Utrata 1B street. The ticket of- The route to Helsinki, known as Via Bal- BORDER CHECKPOINTS near Druskininkai, Lithuania. Travellers fi ce sells tickets for domestic connections. tica, will eventually connect the Baltic states Suwałki are located near the border of three must have a valid visa. DIRECT BUS CONNECTIONS with Western Europe. Suwałki will be located states: Lithuania, the Russian Kaliningrad Detailed information and visa forms are on the route of Via Carpatia, the planned Eu- Oblast and Belarus. available at: http://poland.mfa.gov.by/pl. Route Travel time ropean north-south road connecting Klaipė- Białystok – Suwałki 2.5 hours BORDER CHECKPOINTS NEAR da, Lithuania, with Thessaloniki, Greece. GRODNO REGION WITHOUT A VISA Częstochowa – Suwałki 9.5 hours SUWAŁKI Suwałki is also a junction of major nation- As of October 26th, 2016, tourists may vis- Ełk – Suwałki 1.5 hours al and provincial roads: Border checkpoint Distance from Suwałki it Grodno and its vicinity (on the territo- Gdansk – Suwałki 7 hours ◗ national road no. 8 (part of the interna- With the Russian Kaliningrad Oblast: ry of the “Augustów Canal” Tourist and Katowice – Suwałki 10.5 hours tional E67 route), which connects the city Gołdap 68 km Recreational Park) without a visa for up Krakow – Suwałki 11 hours with Augustów, Białystok and Warsaw to to 5 days. In order to enter Belarus, trav- Lublin – Suwałki 6.5 hours the south, and Szypliszki, Budzisko and With Lithuania: ellers must have: Łódź – Suwałki 8.5 hours Kaunas to the north east; Budzisko 28 km ◗ a valid passport or another document Olsztyn – Suwałki 4 hours ◗ provincial road no. 655 connecting Su- Ogrodniki 43 km authorising the holder to cross the state Poznan – Suwałki 10.5 hours wałki with Raczki to the south west, and Trakiszki (rail border crossing) 33 km border, Torun – Suwałki 7.5 hours Rutka-Tartak and the Suwałki Landscape ◗ a document authorising the holder to Warsaw – Suwałki 5.5 hours Park to the north; With Belarus: visit the “Augustów Canal” Park issued Wroclaw – Suwałki 12 hours ◗ provincial road no. 652 to Gołdap and Kuźnica Białostocka 125 km by a Belarussian travel agency provid- the Russian Kaliningrad Oblast; Rudawka (border crossing on water, ing tourist services on the territory of Bus connections from Suwałki to Lithuania ◗ provincial road no. 653 to Wigry Na- Kurzyniec Lock) 56 km the Park, (to Marijampolė, Kaunas, Klaipėda, Palan- tional Park, Sejny, Ogrodniki, Alytus, ◗ valid medical insurance policy, ga and Vilnius), Latvia, Estonia and Rus- Druskininkai and Vilnius to the east, and Tips for travellers ◗ suffi cient amount of local currency. sia are serviced by international bus lines: Olecko, Ełk and Olsztyn to the west. ◗ If you are going to Lithuania, you need Belarus may be entered from Po- Ecolines (phone no.: +48 226103366, www. From Warsaw, you can reach Suwałki via to have a personal identifi cation docu- land without a visa only through the bor- ecolines.net) and LuxExpress (phone no.: the following routes: ment. Minors may cross the border us- der checkpoints Rudawka – Lesnaya and +48 222095059, www.luxexpress.eu). The ◗ route no. 1 (roads no. E67 and S61): War- ing a valid passport or a personal identity Kuźnica Białostocka – Bruzgi. More infor- coaches of both lines leave from the bus stop saw – Wyszków – Ostrów Mazowiecka card; mation available at www.grodnovisafree.by. Utrata/Dworzec PKS (01) at Utrata 1 street. 8 9 How to get to Suwałki 01

International bus tickets can be pur- In the future, Suwałki will be one of the Local operators: PKS Nova (see page 9) and I–VI i IX–XII Mon–Fri 8.00 AM – 4.00 PM, chased online using the browsers provid- stops of the international Rail Baltica rail- Żak Express (phone no.: +48 726103103, VII–VIII Mon–Fri 8.00 AM–6.00 PM, Sat, ed on operators’ websites, or in the offi ce way providing fast connection with the Bal- +48 887103104, www.zakexpress.com.pl) Sun and holidays 9.00 AM–3.00 PM) you of Polskie Biuro Podróży (Teofi la Noniew- tic states. offer direct transfer from the airport to Su- can learn about the local places of interests, icza 48 street, phone no.: +48 875665916, wałki and back. recommended restaurants and available ac- DIRECT RAIL CONNECTIONS e-mail: [email protected], suwalki- Warsaw Modlin Airport (WMI), Gener- commodation, and leisure options – both in- [email protected], www.pbpsu- Route Travel time ała Thomme 1a, 05-102 Nowy Dwór Ma- door and outdoor. The TIC staff will also give walki.wakacyjnyswiat.pl). Białystok – Suwałki 2 hours zowiecki, phone no.: +48 223151880, www. you the best options for trips around the re- Other operators offering bus connections Kaunas (LT) – Suwałki 3 hours modlinairport.pl. Local operator Żak Ex- gion and to Lithuania. They will also advise to and from Suwałki: Krakow – Suwałki 7.5 hours press (see above) provides direct transfer you on where to spend a lovely night with ◗ SuperPKS (phone no.: +48 703402800, Warsaw – Suwałki 5 hours from the airport to Suwałki and back. the music you like, and will tell you the dates www.superpks.pl; Suwałki – Warsaw); Olsztyn-Mazury Airport (SZY), Szy- and venues of the most interesting events, ◗ ŻakExpress (phone no.: +48 703202022, Details: www.rozklad-pkp.pl. many 150, 12-100 Szczytno, phone no.: music concerts, performances, festivals and www.zakexpress.pl; Suwałki – Warsaw); +48 895443434, www.mazuryairport.pl. other cultural attractions in Suwałki and in ◗ Voyager Trans (phone no.: +48 857445445, Airplane WizzAir and Ryanair provide regular con- the region. They will tell you which cycling +48 513445445, www.voyagertrans.pl; Within 300 km from Suwałki, there are fi ve nection with London. Passengers travelling or hiking trail to choose, advise you on the Białystok – Suwałki). international airports: in Kaunas (135 km), from Suwałki can get to the airport by car best kayaking routes in the area and also Tickets are also available at Vilnius (196 km), Warsaw (290 km), Mod- (taking provincial roads no. 655 and 661, tell you where to rent a kayak. The Tourist www.e-podroznik.pl. lin (282 km) and Szymany (190 km). Su- then national road no. 16 to Ełk, national Information Centre offers a broad selection wałki has a local airfi eld with a paved road no. 63 to Pisz, national road no. 58 of maps, guides and tourist publications, as Railway 1,320 m long runway, servicing private air- to Szczytno and national road no. 57 to well as local souvenirs, postcards and folk Train station in Suwałki is located in Kole- craft. The airfi eld is managed by the Suwałki Szymany). handicrafts. The Centre also provides free- jowa street, near the city centre. As the tick- Flying School, phone no. +48 602640355, of-charge Internet access. et offi ce is currently closed; tickets can be +48 602273255, e-mail: lotnisko.suwalki@ Tourist Information The Centre also organises meetings purchased online or from the train crew. gmail.com. Flight tickets can be purchased In the Tourist Information Centre in Suwałki in Traveller’s Club with local adventur- Railway access to Suwałki is pro- in Polskie Biuro Podróży in Suwałki (see (Księdza Kazimierza Hamerszmita 16 street, ers who will share their ways of getting to vided by: Polregio trains (phone no.: page 10). phone no.: +48 87 7351059, e-mail: cit@po- know the region, but also other countries +48 703202020, www.polregio.pl) and TLK Kaunas Airport (KUN), Oro uosto g. 4, godnesuwalki.pl, www.pogodnesuwalki.pl; and cultures. trains serviced by PKP Intercity (phone no.: Karmėlava 54460 (Lithuania), phone no.: +48 703200200, www.intercity.pl). Tick- +370 612 44442, www.kaunas-airport.lt. ets for Polregio trains can be purchased Serviced by WizzAir and Ryanair. at https://bilety.polregio.pl and via KOLEO Vilnius Airport (VNO), Rodūnios kl. 1-A, platform (https://koleo.pl); tickets for TLK Vilnus 02189 (Lithuania), phone no.: +370 trains can be purchased at www.intercity.pl. 612 44442, www.vilnius-airport.lt. Suwałki has a direct rail connection with Chopin Airport (WAW), Żwirki i Wig- Białystok, Warsaw and Krakow, and also ury 1, 00-001 Warsaw, phone no.: with Kaunas in Lithuania (weekends only). +48 226504220, www.lotnisko-chopina.pl. 10 11 History of the city at the Czarna Hańcza 02

History of the city at the Czarna Hańcza

Centuries ago, the Suwałki region was the land of the Baltic tribe of Yotvingians, also known as Sudovians. When the Teutonic Knights near- History ly exterminated the Yotvingians at the end of the 13th century, the land would change hands a number of times. After 1422 the area where and Suwałki would be eventually founded was in- corporated into the Grand Duchy of Lithua- nia. The ancient, dense forests of these lands traditions were the favourite hunting ground for kings and aristocracy. In 1667, King John II Casimir of Poland bestowed this land on Camaldolese monks who quickly set to work establishing new settlements across their new domain. Suwałki was founded before 1690; by 1710, Greater Suwałki and Lesser Suwałki had been already established. The town charter, granted to Suwałki in 1715 by the prior of the Monastery in Wigry, was con- fi rmed King Augustus II the Stron in 1720. Following the third partition of Poland in 1795, Suwałki was incorporated into Prus- sia. Under the Treaties of Tilsit of 1807, the town found itself in the Duchy of Warsaw, and after the Congress of Vienna in 1815 – in the Kingdom of Poland. Between 1815 and 1915 the town was fi rst made the cap- 02 ital of a province (voivodeship) and then governorate, and became one of the larg- est cities in the Russian Partition. The pop- The Suwałki foundation charter of 2 March 1720, photo: Central Archives of Historical ulation of Suwałki grew steadily; by 1872, Records in Warsaw. the town was the fourth largest city in the Kingdom of Poland. A large portion of the 12 13 History of the city at the Czarna Hańcza 02

The people of Suwałki actively partici- pated in every attempt to restore Poland’s independence, including in the Novem- ber Uprising of 1830–31, the Martial Law of 1861, the January Uprising of 1863–64, and the Russian Revolution of 1905. Dur- ing World War I, after Russia’s defeat, the city was seized by German troops in 1915. It was not until 24 August 1919 that the Pol- ish troops entered Suwałki and returned the city to the Republic of Poland. In the so-called interwar period, Su- city’s population were Jews; other nation- wałki was incorporated into Białystok Prov- alities included Russians, Germans, Lith- ince. In 1921, the city had a population of uanians and Tatars. The 19th century was a period of growth and expansion for Su- Suwałki seen from the road from Warsaw, lithograph by A. Misierowicz, 1855, photo: wałki, with blooming crafts, trade, services Central Archives of Historical Records in Warsaw. and workshops, and also budding industry. The Suwałki brewery in 1960s, Elementary schools and high schools were photographed by T. Smagacz, photo: Central Archives of Historical Records in Warsaw. established, between printing shops, public Suwałki city plan from 1863, photo: State reading rooms, bookshops and amateur mu- Archives in Suwałki. sical and theatre groups, cultural and artistic Offi cers of the 2nd Grochow Uhlan Regiment in the barracks in Kawaleryjska street life was booming. In 1909, the fi rst museum (currently gen. K. Pułaskiego street) around and the fi rst cinema were opened. 1930, photo: Archives of the District Museum in Suwałki. 14 15 Suwałki architecture 02

16,780 people, and in SYMBOLS OF SUWAŁKI 1931 – 21,826. Suwałki was one of the larg- Coat of arms of Suwałki est garrisons in Poland, is a red shield with the with around 6 thousand fi gures of Saint Roch troops stationing in and and Saint Romuald in around the city, includ- silver gowns on a yellow ing the 2nd Grochow Uh- base, with three green lan Regiment of General mountains between them. Jozef Dwernicki, the 3rd On the top of the highest mountain is a golden cross, Chevau-légers Regiment and at its base, a golden crown. Saint Roch (on the of Colonel Jan Kozietul- left panel) supports himself on a black staff and has ski, and the 41st Suwałki a black dog at his feet. Infantry Regiment of Flag of Suwałki is a rectan- Marshal Józef Piłsudski. gle with a 5:8 width to length From 1939 to 1944, ratio. The fi eld of the fl ag is Suwałki was under the divided into two bands colour- German occupation. On ed green and red, with an 8:5 proportion ratio. The 23 October 1944, Soviet coat of arms of Suwałki is placed centrally on the fi eld. troops entered the city. The colours of the fl ag are derived from the colours of With the administra- the city’s coat of arms (i.e. the three mountains and the tive reform of 1975, Su- shield). The fl ag is two-sided. be “diverse”. The most valuable elements of wałki was given a second The offi cial bugle call of Suwałki is Fanfary suwalskie the historic urban landscape originate from massive growth boost by (Fanfares of Suwałki), composed by Paweł Łukowiec, the fi rst half of the 19th century, which was becoming the capital of who graduated from and now works in the Karol essentially the Golden Age in Suwałki’s his- the newly created Su- Lipiński Academy of Music in Wroclaw. The anthem is tory. The city’s urban development was de- wałki Province, the sec- a ca. 35-second long composition for trumpets. termined for the next hundred years by the ond largest in Poland. In The anthem of the city is the song Suwałki, moje comprehensive regulation plan adopted at the period of 24 years, miasto (Suwałki, my city). The lyrics were written by the beginning of the century. The responsibil- Suwałki transformed into Leszek Aleksander Moczulski and the music was ity for carrying out the plan fell to acclaimed a medium-sized city and its population dou- economic condition of Suwałki gradually im- composed and arranged by Jacek Zieliński. architects whose accomplishments includ- bled. However, another administrative reform proved, turning the city into a bustling hub of ed representative buildings in Warsaw and of 1999 dissolved the Suwałki Province and economic, tourist and scientifi c activities. elsewhere: Antonio Corazzi, Chrystian Piotr the city was incorporated as a district into the Suwałki architecture Aigner, Enrico Marconi and Karol Majerski. Podlasie Province. Following the hardships Mounting the door sign of the Voivodeship The historic downtown of Suwałki, Offi ce in Suwałki in 1975, photo: State of the economic transformation period and Archives in Suwałki. If the architecture of Suwałki was to be sum- with its largely unchanged 19th-century spa- the loss of the provincial capital status, the City anthem and bugle. marised with a single word, that word would tial arrangement, the Classicist Tadeusza 16 17 Suwałki architecture 02

Kościuszki street as its main thoroughfare, One of them is the building located at RENOWNED ARCHITECTS IN SUWAŁKI and the nearby Constitution of 3 May park, of St Alexander at Trzech Krzyży square in Warsaw the intersection of Tadeusza Kościuszki 84 is one of the few preserved in Poland to Antonio Corazzi (born in 1792 w Livorno, died in and the church of St Alexander in Suwałki. and Chłodna 2 streets, the former offi ce of this day. Among the hundred-odd buildings 1877 in Florence). Corazzi was the preeminent creator Enrico Marconi (born in 1792 in Rome, died in the Provincial Commission and Tribunal, with Classicist architectural elements, there of Classicist architecture in the post-Congress of Vien- 1863 in Warsaw). Although born in Rome, Marconi which was probably built in early 19th cen- are several dozen of which are true mas- na Kingdom of Poland. He was brought to Warsaw by considered Poland to be his second homeland. tury. Equally interesting architecture can be terpieces. (More information on the histor- Stanisław Staszic in 1818 in order to improve Poland’s Brought from Tuscany by Count Ludwik Michał Pac, found in the town hall complex. Located in ic objects mentioned below, see Classicist architecture to European standards. Over the next 27 owner of the Dowspuda estate in the Suwałki Region, the south-eastern corner of the town square, route, p. 38). years, Corazzi designed iconic buildings not only in it took Marconi 20 years to become the most popular the town hall originally had two buildings: Warsaw, but in other Polish cities as well. His works and sought-after architects in the Kingdom of Poland. a one-storey guardhouse (1834–35) with include, among others: the Staszic Palace in Warsaw, Warsaw owes Marconi such iconic buildings as the a 4-column porch supporting a triangular the Grand Theatre in Warsaw, the Palace of the Min- Pac Palace in Miodowa street, church of St Charles tympanum decorated with a cast-iron eagle istry of Revenues and Treasury in Warsaw, as well as Borromeo, the Warsaw-Vienna Railway Station, and sculpture, and the town hall proper (1842; the town hall and the male grammar school in Suwałki. Europejski Hotel; in Suwałki, Marconi designed the Antonio Corazzi was one of the designers) Chrystian Piotr Aigner (born in 1756 in Puławy, died church of the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus. with nine façade axes and a gateway, and in 1841 in Florence). Polish architect and architectural a steeple built above the gateway along the theorist, friend and collaborator of Stanisław Kostka Male grammar school in Suwałki; postcard axis of symmetry of the buildings. from the years 1910-14, photo: Archives of Potocki, professor at the University of Warsaw, Aign- the District Museum in Suwałki. In the city centre, you cannot miss the er’s works include the hothouse in the Łańcut Castle, Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus, building of the former grammar school for the palace and the Temple of the Sibyl in Puławy, the photo: Archives of the Municipal Offi ce of boys (currently a high school) from the 1840s, Suwałki. Radziwiłl Palace in Warsaw (which is currently the of- designed by the incomparable Antonio Coraz- Intersection of Kościuszki, 3 Maja (currently fi cial residence of the President of Poland), the church Chłodna) and Piłsudskiego streets; postcard zi. Between the 1820s and the 1850s, several from the interwar period, photo: Archives of 18 the District Museum in Suwałki. 19 Suwałki architecture 02

dozen sumptuous houses were built along in the backyard from the 1820s. Right next to Suwałki’s main street, several of which are the Old Post Offi ce you can see the house defi nitely worth a closer look. The fi rst one, at number 47 with a long façade with eleven a one-storey building at Tadeusza Kościusz- axes and rich Classicist decor. ki 31 street, is currently the seat of the Maria Another interesting building is the large ed- Konopnicka Museum. Its architecture is very ifi ce at Tadeusza Kościuszki 89 street, known simple, characteristic for the period of 1820s. as the Banking House, with a three-storey We can safely assume that the majority of façade and a massive tympanum. The own- buildings from that period were in similar style. er of this and two neighbouring houses (at The Museum building’s value is mainly as no. 87 and 91), Antoni Sudnik, built them a historical object, rather than an architectur- probably in 1838. The house at Tadeusza al achievement. For architectural value, take Kościuszki 87 street has retained its Clas- a look at the building of the Old Post Offi ce sicist character, while the house at number (Tadeusza Kościuszki 45 street) with annexes 91 was remodelled in eclectic style at the turn of the 19th and 20th century. In the vicin- ity, take a look at the two nearby buildings which are stylistically different – the church of the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus (former Orthodox temple) and the seat of the District Museum, which was originally a modernist civic club built in the years 1911 to 1914. Another group of valuable historic ob- jects in Suwałki are the temples. In the years 1820–25, the Classicist church of St Alex- ander was built, designed by Chrystian Pi- otr Aigner, which later underwent a number of reconstructions, among others after 1845 according to the design prepared by Enrico Marconi. In the late 1840s, the Cassicist Prot- estant church of the Holy Trinity was built (designed by W. Ritschel and K. Majerski). Town Hall in Suwałki; postcard from the Other characteristic historical objects in Su- interwar period, photo: Archives of the District Museum in Suwałki. wałki include the four barracks complexes Church of St Alexander; postcard from the built in the last quarter of the 19th century in interwar period, photo: Archives of the cemeteries District Museum in Suwałki. Russian-Byzantine style, and the : Protestant church of the Holy Trinity. the Roman Catholic cemetery with a Goth- Photo: Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in ic Revival chapel (1853–54, designed by Suwałki. 20 21 Suwałki architecture 02

Eastern Orthodox cemetery, photo: K. Majerski Map of the Roman Catholic cemetery from September 1902, photo: State Archives in Suwałki. View of Targowa and Moskiewska (currently Maria Konopnicka square) streets; postcard 22 from ca. 1912, photo: Archives of the District 23 Museum in Suwałki. Arts and customs 02

K. Majerski), an old tree stand and numerous based on fresh local products and acclaimed historic headstones; the Orthodox cemetery for its amazing taste. What’s important, the with valuable architectural elements from the local restaurants, butcher’s shops and bak- second half of the 19th century and the adjoin- eries are preparing their meals and prod- ing Old Ritualist cemetery; the Jewish cem- ucts using traditional recipes and methods. etery with several ruined matzevahs; and the Kartacze (cepelinai), potato babka and Pol- Protestant and Tatar cemeteries. ish potato sausage, kalduny, Lithuanian blini Suwałki also has plenty of contempo- and lentil buns are served as part of every- rary architecture from more recent years, day diet, and the recipes are family heirlooms including the seat of the Suwałki Municipal to be passed over from generation to gen- Culture Centre, the aquapark, Suwałki Arena, eration. Other local specialties include the the buildings of the Science and Technology sękacz (spit pie), the ant hill cake or bread Park, “Plaza” Shopping Mall, and Loft 1898 baked on dried calamus leaves. Local cuisine Hotel. An interesting example of the changing also makes good use of the fi sh living in the appearance and function of a public space lakes of the region, with smoked vendace and over the centuries is the current Marii Kono- whitefi sh considered to be the most delicious. pnickiej square. Locals also make excellent cow and goat milk cottage cheeses and maturing cheeses.

Arts and customs Music For almost 70 years, Suwałki is the home Suwałki and the Suwałki Region are well- of one of Poland’s oldest folklore music known for their rich variety of customs and groups, the “Suwalszczyzna” Song and traditions, and diverse arts born from the Dance Ensemble, popularising the local intermingling of borderland cultures. All na- folk culture through performances on con- tions living in the area have contributed to certs, festivals and tours in Poland and this unique cultural melting pot. abroad, including in Lithuania, Belarus, the Ukraine, Latvia, Estonia, France, Germa- Culinary traditions ny, Russia, Belgium, Georgia and Turkey. The culinary tradition is an important ele- The musical landscape of the city is com- ment of the local heritage. Traditional cuisine plemented by the Municipal Concert Band served in the restaurants, bars and tourist and the Suwałki Chamber Orchestra. The establishments of the Suwałki Region is members of Municipal Concert Band, established in 1997, are the students and

Suwałki Municipal Culture Centre. graduated of the local State Music School Photo: K. Mierzejewski in Suwałki, as well as musicians from the The aquapark, photo: K. Mierzejewski city and the region. The concert band aims 24 25 Arts and customs 02

to kindle patriotism of the local youth, rein- The Suwałki Chamber Orchestra was force the local identity and popularise the created in July 2007 at the initiative of the knowledge of history of the city and the re- Mayor of Suwałki, Józef Gajewski, and the gion. The band is often invited as the guest local composer and conductor, Grzegorz of honour to various events organised by Bogdan. The orchestra performs at classi- Suwałki’s partner cities, and provides the cal music concerts as part of the Suwałki musical background for various local oc- Philharmonic cycle, which showcases se- casions, such as national holidays and lected music genres, periods or creators, ceremonies held by the local schools and while proving that classical music does not institutions. The concert band also opens always have to be dead serious. The Su- the national and international sports events wałki Chamber Orchestra accompanies organised by the city of Suwałki. the fi nest Polish and international soloists, and works, among others, with the Białystok Kartacze, a local culinary specialty, photo: City Choir and the acclaimed Cantilena fe- Archives of the Municipal Offi ce of Suwałki. male choir from Suwałki. „Neighbours at the table” International Culinary Festival, photo: K. Mierzejewski 26 Suwalszczyzna Song and Dance Ensemble, 27 photo: Archives of the Suwałki Municipal Culture Centre Arts and customs 02

you can manufacture and buy pretty much Handcraft and folk art everything you need, the handcraft in the The handcraft tradition in the Suwałki Re- region is not going anywhere. The most gion dates back to the times before the popular crafts are basket weaving using dawn of mass production, when the major- a variety of materials, such as wicker, roots, ity of everyday items and appliances had to straw or slats, and fabric weaving on looms be made on one’s own. Even though today creating decorative cloths, bedspreads and carpets. Pottery and barrel-making are far- Handcraft, photo: K. Mierzejewski ing somewhat worse, as the tradition of dec- Suwałki Chamber Orchestra, photo: P. Kopciał orating wooden pots and window shutters The blacksmith’s workshop “Szwajcaria” has all but disappeared. Fortunately, the Yotvingian Archaeological Festival. 28 Photo: J. Siemaszko 29 Famous sons and daughters of Suwałki 02

tradition of egg-painting for the Easter is author of the lyrics of the Polish patriotic still alive and strong. song Rota (“The Oath”), starting with the If you want to learn the customs and folk famous declaration “We shall not forsake art of the Suwałki Region, head to the lo- the land whence we came from…”, wide- cal museums and regional chambers. The ly considered to be the second Polish na- District Museum in Suwałki (Tadeusza tional anthem. Konopnicka was best known Kościuszki 81 street) has a vast collection, for her works in children’s literature which including the ethnographic section which brought her recognition and fame. Maria contains a large variety of folk textiles and Konopnicka Museum in Suwałki, opened cloths, and other traditional hand-crafted in 1973, is located in the building she was products, as well as ritual items and folk art. born in (Tadeusza Kościuszki 31 street). The museum organises various events to She is also the patron of the High School popularise the customs and history of the No. 1, Suwałki Public Library and one of the Suwałki Region, such as the “Szwajcaria” squares in the city. Yotvingian Archaeological Festival. (More information on the Museum – see p. 67). Famous sons and daughters of Suwałki

Suwałki has been the hometown for many prominent fi gures known both in Poland and abroad. Maria Konopnicka née Wasiłowska (1842–1910). A great poet and novelist, Konopnicka was one of the most impor- tant voices in the history of the Polish liter- ature. Born in Suwałki, her family moved to Kalisz when she was seven. She was the

District Museum, The Oldest Times exhibition, photo: Archives of the District Museum in Suwałki “Szwajcaria” Yotvingian Archaeological Festival, photo: W. Arasimowicz Maria Konopnicka statue, photo: K. Mierzejewski 30 31 Famous sons and daughters of Suwałki 02

Andrzej Wajda (1926–2016), an accom- KONOPNICKA’S CHILDHOOD MEMORY plished fi lm director, co-creator of the Pol- […] The fi rst ever cemetery that I came to know was ish Film School, recipient of an Honorary the so-called “Little Graves” in Suwałki. When the bells Oscar and numerous international fi lm would toll in town, not those bright and joyful, calling awards, was born in Suwałki and spent his the people to Mass, but those groaning and moaning: fi rst years here. He returned to the Suwałki „O!… O!… O!…” – we would run as fast as we could Region in late 1990s to shoot some scenes through the garden, all the way down to the Hańcza, for Pan Tadeusz; in 2000, he was awarded and we would keep looking until lights would appear Honorary Citizenship of Suwałki. Some of on the other bank, moving regularly, one by one, as if Wajda’s greatest accomplishments are ad- somebody strung the stars and was praying the Rosa- aptations of Polish literature. ry with them. If there was wind, you could even hear the singing. But not ordinary singing of the variety you ANDRZEJ WAJDA’S CHILDHOOD could hear at the piano, but other, dark and mournful, IMAGES which would be saying: […] My fi rst childhood memories are related to the “Oh, how woeful is the grave!… Oh, how woeful is the garrison in Suwałki… It was a large garrison, combining casket!… multiple regiments, including several cavalry regiments. And other voices would respond: No wonder, then, that my childhood included military “Lord! Lord! Lord! Have mercy on our souls! parades, the cavalry marching band, a mounted gun Sometimes, your heart would squeeze listening to squad in full gallop… I am one of the few people who those woes. have seen with their own eyes the cavalry training, In the spring and in autumn, when the Hańcza would with sabres and lances, vaulting, the whole regiment rise, lights would swarm in the water and fl ow down skiing back to barracks, funerals with the casket on Czesław Miłosz (1911–2004) was born in Prize in Literature for 1980, he visited the the river, and disappear in the reed. Then we would go the gun-carriage – those images were ingrained in me Lithuania, but his youth ties with the Suwałki Suwałki Region in 1989 and then returned home, in secred or openly […] and it would be impossible for them not to percolate Region were close and signifi cant. Between several times. On spring evenings, white mists would rise from the my fi lms. But I think I haven’t yet made full use of those 1926 and 1937, the parents of the future RETURN river and fi ll the air like white wisps. Marynka the experiences; maybe, one day, I’ll be able to make a fi lm winner of the Nobel Prize in Literature lived maid used to say that the wisps were “little souls”. about a remote, backwood garrison […]. in Suwałki. Miłosz often spent his summer In my old age, I decided to return to the places Sometimes, they would fi ll the entire garden. Nothing Those weren’t the cavalry units you see in London holidays in Krasnogruda with his aunts from where my early youth roamed. special, someone might say. Just a little mist, that’s all. at the changing of the guards; they were true the Kunat family; he refl ected those expe- I recognised the scents, the lines of the glacial But if you peered closely, especially if the Moon was cavalrymen, trained to fi ght and destroy their enemy riences in his works and returned to them hills, the oval bowls of the lakes. shining, you could clearly see the shadows moving in combat. They were real people, people I saw, liked in many interviews. After winning the Nobel I ploughed through the thicket where the park among the trees, lurching, fading away and appearing and knew, not some re-enactment group. So how once used to be, but I found no trace of the alley. again, like tall white fi gures shuffl ing their feet. could I not have accepted them? Andrzej Wajda, photo: Archives of the I stood by the water and just like before, the Maria Konopnicka, Z cmentarzy (“From the Cem- I regret I wasn’t able to do them justice in Lotna. Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki waves would fl ake on the water; inconceivable Czesław Miłosz’s signature, kept in the State eteries”) [in:] idem, Trzy nowele (“Three Novellas”), Wajda mówi o sobie: wywiady i teksty (“Wajda on him- Archives in Suwałki, photo: State Archives identity, inconceivable separation. Suwałki 1992, pp. 71–75. self: interviews and texts”), Kraków 1991, pp. 19, 48. in Suwałki And yet I shall not disown you, wretched young- 32 33 Famous sons and daughters of Suwałki 02

ling, and shall not call the reasons of your torment of the Academy of Fine Arts and Institute of composed by Jan Kanty Pawluśkie wicz is Suwałki also had a number of distinguished foolish. […] Communication in Sankt Petersburg, Russia. a beautiful and moving oratory. Jewish citizens. In the 19th century, a well- Just for you – I nod and look at the lake – just for Another student of the Suwałki gymna- One of the most infl uential fi gures in Po- stocked bookshop and printing works was es- you, for millennia now, so the beauty of the earth sium, an engineer and friend of the poet land in the fi rst half of the 20th century was tablished in Suwałki by Leon Hollaenderski be praised […]. Cyprian Kamil Norwid Mieczysław Geni- the Suwałki-born Aleksandra Piłsudska née (Leib Ben Dawid; 1808–78), a friend of Polish Czesław Miłosz, Dalsze okolice (“Remote plac- usz (1853–1920) was one of the builders of Szczerbińska (1882–1963), the second wife independence activist, Joachim Lelewel. An- es”), Kraków 1991, pp. 54–55. the Suez Canal. Kazimierz Białaszewicz of Marshal Józef Piłsudski. The legendary other bookshop and a reading room in the city (1882–1943), son of a Suwałki barrister, was No. 303 Squadron RAF during the Battle of was created by Samuel Orgelbrand (1810– Born in Suwałki, Alfred Wierusz-Kow- one of the preeminent Polish experts in com- Britain in 1940 was commanded by Gener- 68), a bookseller and printer from Warsaw, alski (1849–1915) became one of the most parative biochemistry and physiology. al Witold Urbanowicz (1908–96), one of who published the famous 28-volume Encyklo- sought-after Polish artists in Europe and an The “golden book” of the most distin- the greatest aces in aviation history and also pedia powszechna (“General Encyclopaedia”). honorary professor at the Munich Academy guished graduates of the Suwałki gym- a student of the Suwałki gymnasium. The Moris Rosenfeld (1862–1923), who left of Fine Arts, who set the trends in Europe- nasium includes the name of Karol commanding offi cer of No. 317 Polish Fight- Suwałki in 1886 for the United States, was an painting. You can still see the house he Brzozowski (1821–1904), Polish inde- er Squadron, which also fought in the Battle one of the forefathers of the Yiddish language was born in (Tadeusza Kościuszki 16 street), pendence activist, scientist, poet and fa- of Britain, was another distinguished avia- and the author of the lyrics to the song My lit- and the District Museum has a number of his ther of the two notable poets of the Young tor from Suwałki, Mayor Józef Brzeziński tle son, popular among the English, German paintings on display. Poland movement, Stanisław and Wincent (1909–42). and Jewish proletariat in the U.S. Honorary Citizenship of Suwałki was also Korab-Brzozowski. Another graduate of the Suwałki gymnasi- The last rabbi of Suwałki, Dawid Lipszyc awarded to Professor Edward Franciszek Another graduate of the Suwałki gymnasi- um, Colonel Adam Koc (1891–1969), fought (1907 or 1906–1993), after World War II be- Szczepanik (1915–2005), born in Suwałki um, Kazimierz Kulwieć (1871–1943), was for Poland’s independence and in the Pol- came one of the head rabbis in New York City and a graduate of the Suwałki gymnasi- a scientist, teacher co-founder of the Polish ish-Soviet War, and later went on to become and the headmaster of the most renowned um, who went on to become the last Prime Sightseeing Society. The family of the great a Sejm deputy, a minister in the Polish govern- New York yeshiwa (Jewish educational in- Minister of the Polish government in exile Polish actor Jan Ciecierski (1899–1987) ment in exile, and after World War II, co-found- stitution). Suwałki was the home town of the in London (he is buried in the cemetery in also lived in the city at the Czarna Hańcza, ed and headed Józef Piłsudski Institute of parents of Maurice (Moshe) Bokanowski Bakałarzewska street) and Andrzej Stru- in Tadeusza Kościuszki street (where num- America. Divisional General Henryk Mink- (1879–1928), a deputy to the French Parlia- miłło (1927–2020), artist, poet and commen- ber 82 is currently located). iewicz-Odrowąż (1880–1940), born in Su- ment and the minister in the French govern- tator known in Poland and abroad. Lechosław Marszałek (1922–91), author, wałki, in 1924 was appointed the commanding ment. Aaron Szejnman (1886–1937) was Suwałki was the home of the parents of screenwriter and director of cartoons, includ- offi cer of the Polish Border Protection Corps. born in Suwałki in a wealthy banker’s family, an acclaimed Polish musician, famous com- ing the legendary Polish series Reksio, was Lieutenant Colonel Zygmunt Rylski (1898– and went on to become the director of Gos- poser and conductor Emil Młynarski (1870– born in Suwałki. 1945), who was born in Suwałki and served bank (the central bank of the Soviet Union). 1935), who was born in Kybartai, Lithuania. Leszek Aleksander Moczulski (1938– as the commanding offi cer of the machine gun The Minc house at the corner of Tade- Jerzy Lalewicz (1875–1951), professor 2017), an acclaimed poet, playwright and company of the 41st Infantry Regiment in Su- usza Kościuszki street and Jatkowa (cur- of the Vienna Consevatoire (since 1912) lyrics author, was born in Suwałki and gradu- wałki, went on to become the commander of rently Ludwika Waryńskiego 2 street) was and recipient of multiple awards in interna- ated from the local high school. He published the Sub-district of Praga of the District of War- the home of Mordecai (Mordechel) and Ha- tional piano competitions, was a graduate of a number of books of poems and his Księga saw of the Home Army (Armia Krajowa). He dasa-Leja Stern, parents of Abraham Stern the Suwałki gymnasium. His brother Mari- psalmów dla dzieci małych i dużych (“Book of was murdered in the German concentration (1907–42), a poet who fought and died for an Lalewicz (1876–1944) was a professor Psalms for children big and small”) with music camp Stutthof. the establishment of the State of Israel. 34 35 Suwałki Cultural Paths 03

Suwałki has plenty of interesting sights and go two or three centuries back in time, go to attractions to offer to a broad audience, the Constitution of May 3 Park, which was from architecture lovers and visitors inter- once a bustling market square, and follow ested in the history of the borderland, to the history of the people and their cultures, people looking for a good time outdoors and buildings and institutions… in the local cultural establishments. Suwałki The Suwałki Cultural Paths will take you is also a great destination for a family holi- back in time to the 19th-century city. There is Sightseeing day combined with going on quests to solve no need to hurry. Time seems to have fl owed various puzzles, or… treasure hunting. back then instead of fl ying anyway… Travel- lers on the road from Warsaw to Sankt Pe- and cultural Suwałki Cultural tersburg changed horses in their carriages in Suwałki and spent the night in one of the Paths city’s hotels, went shopping in Jewish shops events and stalls, and shared the news of the world A long street lined with low tenement hous- with the locals over a pint in one of the 40 es, the magistrate building, the park, the alehouses. In the 19th-century Suwałki, there church… Whether you are walking around was always time for a walk on the banks of Suwałki for the fi rst time, or you already the Czarna Hańcza, to admire the works of know the city like the back of your hand, the greatest architects of the day, and to en- take a moment and use your imagination to joy fragrant tea from a samovar. 03

36 Tadeusza Kościuszki street, photo: Archives 37 of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki. Suwałki Cultural Paths 03

The routes suggested in this chapter togeth- Alfred Wierusz-Kowalski, Edward NEOCLASSICAL PATH STROLLING PATH er spin an extraordinary tale of the city. They will Szczepanik, Lechosław Marszałek, 1 Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus Seven faiths cemetery complex 1 Roman Catholic cemetery help you follow the footsteps of distinguished as well as Czesław Miłosz’s family. 2 Former male gymnasium Evangelical cemeteries 3 City hall and former guardhouse fi gures from Suwałki whose importance to the Orthodox cemetery CLASSICISM 4 Former Tax Chamber Old Believers’ cemetery Polish culture cannot be overstated, take you 15 5 Former post oce Jewish cemetery back to the Classicist period in the city’s archi- Classicism was a style in art and architecture 6 Maria Konopnicka’s house Muslim cemetery tecture, and perhaps even allow you to experi- based on and emulating the culture of ancient 7 Lechosław Marszałek’s house 16 Arkadia Lake 2 ence the echo of the multicultural melting pot Greece and Rome, which became popular in some 8 Holy Trinity Evangelical Church of Augsburg Confession Bridge over the Czarna Hańcza 3 The Czarna Hańcza River that was Suwałki in the past. European countries in the 18th and 19th century. 9 Alfred Wierusz-Kowalski’s house 4 10 Prof. Edward F. Szczepanik’s house 17 Former New Market Square 5 T Classicist architecture was inspired by ancient a On historic buildings and around places d House under columns Chłodna (Cool) Street 6 11 e

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of interest, look for information plaques in Greek and Roman buildings, such as the temple of s 12 Former bookshop z Park of the Constitution of May 3 7

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15 Former hospital k en object, or listen to an audio recording of Classicism was born during the Enlightenment i 16 Bank building 14 the information. and was closely associated with the concept of 18 Former citzens’ clubhouse 6 rationalism which strived for harmony, symmetry National Archives 19 ńska 17 Sejne Chłodna Classicist route and rhythm. Classicist architecture was character- 19 Saint Alexander’s Church 5 13 1

20 The Miłosz family’s house M ised by sparse expression, balanced composition 20 7 a

Adama Mickiewicza street – Tadeusza 12 j 21 Karol Majerski’s house a and tranquillity, as opposed to the extravagance Kościuszki street – Marszałka Józefa 11 W of Baroque. The followers of the Classicist art aw 21 Piłsudskiego square – Księdza Kazimierza rzy ńc believed it to be an embodiment of perfection. a G aja skiego Hamerszmita street ał wika Waryń Ad 1 Lud The key characteristics of Classicist architec- am a Mickiewicza

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street – the key thoroughfare of the Ionic, Corinthian and Tuscan, i C c za z rn 6 a Suwałki old town. The route has 21 – the abundance of columns, pillars and pilasters, a

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the town hall and the quaint houses pediments, 8 from the 19th and early 20th centu- – dominance of straight-lined façades without nia ierp ry, designed by the most renowned bends and fl ourishes, as opposed to Baroque. 24 S

architects of the day, each with its Typical Classicist objects were usually public utility 3 4 own, unique history. The Classicist buildings, such as schools and theatres, as well path will also take you to places as big city tenement houses. Another characteris- 2 0 100 200 300 metrów related to famous denizens of Su- tic feature of this style are urban arrangements with Z alew Ar kadia 0 500 1000 feet wałki, such as Maria Konopnicka, large squares and wide thoroughfares.

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1. CHURCH OF THE MOST SACRED HEART OF JESUS

Adama Mickiewicza street

The church was built in the years 1838 to 1840 according to the design prepared by Enrico Marconi and the guidelines provided by Konstantin Thon (who designed the Cathe- dral of Christ the Saviour in Moscow). Origi- nally, the temple was the Orthodox church of the Dormition of the Mother of God (Uspensky sobor) built on a Greek cross plan, with the main dome located above the intersection of the naves. Due to the growing numbers of pa- rishioners, the church underwent expansion in 1873, losing its original body with four small domes crowning low steeples. The current southern section was added and the domes were replaced with tall steeples. Taken over The 51-m long front façade is a textbook lead to the former chapel, now used as the by Roman Catholics in 1915, the church un- The history of the school dates back to 1835. example of Classicist principles, with vis- assembly hall. derwent another reconstruction in 1923. Its graduates included such prominent fi g- ible symmetry and harmony of the build- The temple has retained its outstand- ures as Karol Brzozowski, Andrzej Miłosz, ing’s plan, and great attention to details. The 3. TOWN HALL ing acoustics, typical for Eastern Orthodox Edward Szczepanik, Kazimierz Kulwieć and main axis of the building is emphasised by AND THE OLD GUARDHOUSE churches where multi-voice chanting is the Mieczysław Geniusz. a two-storey, wide avant-corps with a trian- Adama Mickiewicza 1 street “multiplication of prayer”. For many years, gular pediment. The fi rst storey has three tall, the church provided pastoral care to local arch windows. The façade is fl anked on both The 19th century was a period of rapid gymnasium students. sides by smaller avant-corps, also with ped- growth for Suwałki, both economic and ar- iments. The main entrance leads to a large, chitectural, symbolised by the new, Clas- 2. FORMER GRAMMAR SCHOOL polygonal hall which has retained its histor- sicist town hall. The town hall (built in the FOR BOYS ical character. Adjacent to the main build- years 1843 to 1844 in Tadeusza Kościusz- ing are two one-storey wings, which in turn ki street) and the guardhouse (1834–35 in Adama Mickiewicza 3 street Adama Mickiewicza street) were probably Built in the years 1843–46, the gymnasium Town Hall, photo: K. Mierzejewski designed by Antonio Corazzi and expanded was designed by Antonio Corazzi, one of the Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus, in the years 1855 to 1857 by Karol Majerski. leading Classicist architects. Initially a gram- photo: Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in Typically for all state buildings of that peri- Suwałki mar school for boys, today it is the seat of Maria Konopnicka High School in Suwałki, od, the façade of the town hall was bright Maria Konopnicka High School No. 1. photo: Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in yellow with white cornices. Suwałki 40 41 Suwałki Cultural Paths 03

The architectural style of the façade is distrupting the symmetry of this otherwise mansions and the burgher houses from the clearly Classicist, with dominant straight 5. OLD POST OFFICE impressive buildings. early 19th century. lines and details repeated in regular inter- Tadeusza Kościuszki 45 street vals, almost like a rhythm. A characteris- 6. MARIA KONOPNICKA’S HOUSE tic feature of the building is the 4-column In the 19th century, the local Post Offi ce was Tadeusza Kościuszki 31 street entrance portico. an important stop on the road between War- saw and Sankt Petersburg. The apartments On May 23rd, 1842, Maria Stanisława Konop- 4. FORMER TAX CHAMBER on the fi rst fl oor were used by tzars and oth- nicka, née Wasiłowska, was born in this house. er travelling dignitaries. One of Poland’s greatest poets and writers, au- Tadeusza Kościuszki 47 street Built around 1830 and remodelled around thor of The Dwarves and Little Orphan Mary, Built in the 1830s, before World War I this 1900, the building is an example of the har- lived here with her family until 1848. Today, building housed the local Tax Chamber mony and symmetry of Classicist architec- the house is a museum of Maria Konopnicka. and Suwałki’s very fi rst weather station. ture. The half columns go up two storeys The architecture of the building, with the The building has retained the main char- and are crowned with a large tympanum. entrance located on the axis and fl anked by acteristics of Classicist style, with a long, In order to emphasise the scale of the columns, drew inspiration from Polish nobility symmetrical façade with 11 axes and care- building, the façade is fl anked by two fully made details. The centrally located portes-cochères leading to the courtyard Maria Konopnicka’s house, photo: Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki porte-cochère is emphasised with Ionic where carriage horses were changed. One Former Tax Chamber, photo: Archives of the pilasters. of the portes-cochères has been walled-up, Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki 42 Bench at Maria Konopnicka Museum, photo: 43 Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki Suwałki Cultural Paths 03

avant-corps enlivens the façade and provides 7. LECHOSŁAW MARSZAŁEK’S additional room space. HOUSE Rustication (bossage) – decorative fi nishing of the façade wall made by profi ling the edges of the Tadeusza Kościuszki 27a street stone slabs lining the walls, creating horizontal or The house in the backyard was the family vertical indentures emphasising the arrangement home of Lechosław Marszałek (1922–91), of the slabs. It is often applied to plaster, as it the creator of Bolek and Lolek, and Reksio lends gravity and loftiness to the façade. the dog, the most beloved characters of Polish cartoons. Born in Suwałki, Marszałek 8. PROTESTANT CHURCH OF THE was a director, animator and screenwriter, HOLY TRINITY and one of the leading fi gures of the Ani- Tadeusza Kościuszki 12 street mated Film Studio in Bielsko-Biała. The architecture of the brick annex is Designed by Wacław Ritschel, the church similar to that of the late 19th-century Rus- was built in the years 1838 to 1841. The sian barracks in Suwałki. interior has retained element characteristic for Protestant churches: a pulpit-altar and a timber frame supporting the galleries. GLOSSARY OF ARCHITECTURE At the turn of the 18th and 19th century, TERMS the Suwałki Region saw a rapid growth of Pediment, triangular gable – an eye-catching Protestant settlements. Today, the church

fi nial of the colonnade. in Suwałki is the only still functioning histor- tympanum pediment Tympanum – the external part of the pediment, ical Protestant temple in Podlasie Province. either smooth or decorated with a relief sculpture. Pilaster – a fl at element used to give the appear- 9. ALFRED WIERUSZ-KOWALSKI’S ance of a supporting column and to articulate an HOUSE extent of wall. A pilaster may have all the elements cornice avant-corps Tadeusza Kościuszki 16 street of a typical column, i.e. the plinth (base), the shaft pilaster and the capital. Here, the pilaster is designed in Ionic This house is the childhood home of Alfred order, with the so-called volutes or “ram’s horns”. Wierusz-Kowalski (1849-1915), an artist, Cornice – a horizontal moulding on wall with one of the most prominent representatives of profi led edges. Aside from its practical function the so-called Munich school, and recipient of (protecting the walls from dripping rainwater), multiple awards and medals in Vienna, Berlin rustication it is also an important ornament, among others separating the storeys of the building. Mural of Reksio the Dog, photo: Archives of Avant-corps – an element of the building jutting the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki The Banking House with architectural out from the façade (here with six columns). The elements, photo: Archives of the Municipal 44 Offi ce in Suwałki 45 Suwałki Cultural Paths 03

and Paris. In his works, he would always re- The house is a Classicist structure with turn to the landscapes of the Suwałki Region two storeys and seven façade axes. where he spent the fi rst 16 years of his life. The building is a typical Suwałki Classi- 11. HOUSE UNDER THE COLUMNS cist house – a symmetrical structure with Tadeusza Kościuszki 62 street seven façade axes and a porte-cochère. Built by Lewin Białostocki in the 1830s, this 10. PROFESSOR Classicist house has a characteristic reced- EDWARD F. SZCZEPANIK’S HOME ed portico with six Tuscan columns on the second fl oor. Tadeusza Kościuszki 46 street In the 1830s, Leon Hollaenderski (Leib The childhood home of Edward Franciszek ben Dawid), a famous bookseller, lithogra- Szczepanik (1915-2005), soldier, economist pher and printer from the northern Suwałki and politician, who during World War II served Region, opened his shop in the building. In in General Władysław Anders’ army. Szcze- mid-19th century, the backyard annex of the panik was the last Prime Minister of Poland house served as a theatre where travelling in exile (1986–90); On December 22nd 1990 troupes performed. in Warsaw,, he and the President of Poland in exile Ryszard Kaczorowski handed over the in- Alfred Wierusz-Kowalski’s house, photo: Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki signia of power to the newly elected President Professor Edward F. Szczepanik’s home, rd of the 3 Republic of Poland, Lech Wałęsa. photo: Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki 46 47 House Under the Columns, photo: Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki Suwałki Cultural Paths 03

13. OLD PROVINCIAL COMMISSION Szwejkowski. Inside, you can still see the orig- AND TRIBUNAL BUILDING inal furniture and equipment, as well as photo- graphs from the early 20th century. During the Tadeusza Kościuszki 74 street interwar period, the sisters Stefania and Jad- One of the fi rst masonry buildings in the wiga Zielonkówna opened their well-known 19th-century Suwałki, it served as the seat reading room and bookshop in the building. of Provincial and Governorate authorities The building itself is a Classicist structure (1817–1915), but had been built before Su- with nine façade axes and a centrally locat- wałki was made the capital of the Augustów ed porte-cochère. Province in 1816. The 49-m long façade has retained per- 15. OLD HOSPITAL fect Classicists proportions. Tadeusza Kościuszki 101 street

14. PHARMACY Since mid-19th century, this building complex served as two hospitals: the Roman Catholic Tadeusza Kościuszki 78 street 12. OLD BOOKSHOP General Encyclopaedia (1858–68), opened and the Jewish one. One of the doctors work- a bookshop and book rental there. The fi rst pharmacy was opened here in the ing here was Teofi l Noniewicz (1851–1928), Tadeusza Kościuszki 72 street The building is a typical Classicist structure, 1840s when the building was purchased In 1841, Samuel Orgelbrand (1810–68), one characterised by symmetry, evenly spaced by a young pharmacist, Mikołaj Zawadz- Former bookshop in T. Kościuszki street, photo: Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in of the most popular publishers in the Kingdom windows, a gable with a tympanum, and the ki. The pharmacy was then inherited by his Suwałki of Poland and the father of the 28-volume porte-cochère located on the building axis. son Jan, and later by Bolesław and Romuald Pharmacy in T. Kościuszki street, photo: Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki 48 49 Former hospital in T. Kościuszki street, photo: Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki Suwałki Cultural Paths 03

1955, it was taken over by State Archives which use it to this day. This two-storey building, with a promi- nent avant-corps crowned with a tympa- num, fi ts the Classicist frontage of the street perfectly.

19. CHURCH OF ST ALEXANDER

Marszałka Józefa Piłsudskiego square

Designed by Chrystian Piotr Aigner and built in the years 1820 to 1829, the church is a typical Classicist structure, symmetri- cal, with a portico and sparsely ornamented. The temple underwent multiple reconstruc- tions and suffered signifi cant damage dur- ing World War II. In 1992, Pope John Paul II raised the church to the position of a co-ca- thedral in the newly established Ełk diocese.

a local activist who in 1918 was appointed troops in Suwałki – it was the second larg- of “Suwalski Weekly”, printing works, a res- the fi rst chairman of Suwałki City Council in est garrison in the Kingdom of Poland, af- taurant and a civic club, after which it took the 2nd Republic of Poland. One of the city’s ter Warsaw. Before 1839, the building was its customary name. In 1919, the civic club main streets is named after him. used by the branch of the Bank of Poland. hosted the Chief of State, Józef Piłsudski. The left section of the Classicist building One of the more sumptuous Classicist In terms of architecture, the building is was designed by Józef Górecki, and the right buildings in Suwałki, the Banking House has a combination of Renaissance Revival, Ba- probably by Karol Majerski. Today, the build- an ornamental façade with a wide, six-col- roque Revival and Classicist Revival ele- ing is used by the restaurant Karczma Pols- umn portico crowned with a tympanum. ments. Today, it is the seat of the District ka, which serves excellent regional cuisine. Museum. 17. OLD CIVIC CLUB 16. THE BANKING HOUSE 18. STATE ARCHIVES Tadeusza Kościuszki 81 street Tadeusza Kościuszki 89 street Tadeusza Kościuszki 69 street Funded by a community fundraiser, this This house, built in late 1830s, was original- building was erected in the years 1912 to This elegant building was erected in the District Museum (former Civic Club), photo: ly used as a fi eld hospital by the Russian 1913 for the local Savings and Credit Union. years 1853 to 1855 (front), and 1876 to Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki army. By the beginning of the 20th century, It also served as the seat of multiple clubs 1877 (annexes and pavilion). Before 1939, State Archives in Suwałki, photo: Archives the Russians amassed around 10 thousand and associations, a reading room, the offi ces the building was used as a courthouse. In of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki Church of St Alexander, photo: Archives 50 of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki 51 Suwałki Cultural Paths 03

This modest, one-storey building, has the the bridge over the Czarna Hańcza, typical features of Classicist architecture: Chłodna street and Constitution of symmetry and regular spacing of windows. May 3 park. This path will allow you to see Suwałki as the multicultural Walking path frontier city it is, located in a beau- tiful landscape, at the scenic Czarna Zarzecze street – Arkadia pond – bridge Hańcza river and the Arkadia pond. over the Czarna Hańcza – the path at the Czarna Hańcza – Noniewicza street – Maria 1. CEMETERIES OF SEVEN Konopnicka square – Chłodna street – DENOMINATIONS Kościuszki street – Konstytucji 3 Maja park Roman Catholic cemetery. Established at – Wawrzyńca Gałaja street the turn of the 18th and 19th century, it re- The 3-km long walking path will take mains the largest cemetery in Suwałki. In you through the multitude of cultures, 1853, the Gothic Revival chapel of Trans- religions and natural beauty of Su- fi guration of Jesus, designed by Karol Ma- wałki. The path has seven stops, jerski, was built in the middle of the oldest including, the “cemetery of seven part of the cemetery. The cemetery has his- years 1838 to 1865, he served as the Chief denominations”, the Arkadia pond, torical headstones from the 19th century, as 20. MIŁOSZ FAMILY HOME Builder of the Augustów Governorate. In Suwałki Cultural Paths Suwałki, he was responsible for preparing Classicist route ks. K. Hamerszmita 10 street Walking path designs for the construction or reconstruc- Between 1926 and 1935, the fi rst fl oor of this tion of over 150 buildings, including church- house was the home of the Miłosz family: Al- es, city houses and public buildings. eksander and Weronika, and their son An- drzej, younger brother of Czesław Miłosz, the later Nobel Prize in Literature winner, who visited the Suwałki Region a number of times in the 1990s. This interesting building has nine façade axes, and a three-storey central avant-corps.

21. KAROL MAJERSKI’S HOUSE

Księdza Kazimierza Hamerszmita 5 street

This building was the home of Karol Ma- The Miłosz family house, photo: Archives of jerski (1800–70), an architect who de- the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki fi ned the Classicist style of Suwałki. In the Karol Majerski’s house, photo: Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki 52 53 Suwałki Cultural Paths 03

cross plan (i.e. with all arms of equal length). It is currently the seat of the Eastern Ortho- dox parish. The Eastern Orthodox parish was established in mid-19th century, when Russian offi cials and their families, and the troops of the local Imperial garrison arrived in Suwałki. Old Ritualist cemetery. The south-west- ern section of the Eastern Orthodox church is occupied by Old Ritualist tombs. The Old Ritualists were a religious minority in Rus- sia which rejected the liturgical reform intro- duced in the Eastern Orthodox church in the years 1652 to 1856. Persecuted, they fl ed Russia and settled in the Republic of Poland and East Prussia; they arrived in the Suwałki Region in the 18th century. Built in the years 1910 to 1912, the molennaya (house of prayer) of the Suwałki Old Ritualists is lo- cated in Sejneńska street. Jewish cemetery. The Jewish cemetery well as military monuments and tombs, in- the Augsburg Confession (known as Lu- can be found in Tadeusza Kościuszki street. (kirkut) in Suwałki was established in early cluding the monument of the members of the therans) and the Evangelical and Reformed Today, it is attended by parishioners from both 19th century. During World War II, the Ger- Polish Military Organisation who fell in 1919 Church (called the Calvinist). The Calvinist Suwałki Region and Masuria. mans devastated the cemetery, using the fi ghting for Poland’s independence. tombs take up a small, north-western sec- Eastern Orthodox cemetery. The wood- matzevahs (headstones) for construction Protestant cemeteries. The cemetery tion of the cemetery, en Eastern Orthodox church of All Saints material. In the 1970s, the cemetery was was used jointly by the members of two Prot- The Evangelicals arrived in the Suwałki Re- in the cemetery was built in the years 1891 to cleaned up and the surviving matzevahs estant churches: the Evangelical Church of gion in the 18th century from the neighbouring 1892 in Russian-Byzantine style, on a Greek were placed on the so-called wailing wall. Masuria region. The Evangelical Church of Until 1939, Jews made up a signifi cant the Augsburg Confession of the Holy Trinity portion of the Suwałki population. Their Classicist synagogue was located in Teofi - Chapel of Transfi guration of Jesus, photo: la Noniewicza street. After World War II, the Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki synagogue fell into ruin and was eventually Eastern Orthodox Church of All Saints, photo: Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki dismantled in 1956. Protestant cemetery, photo: Archives of the Muslim cemetery. The small Muslim Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki cemetery was established in early 20th cen- A matzevah (headstone) in the Jewish tury for the Muslim troops serving in the cemetery, photo: Archives of the Municipal 54 Offi ce in Suwałki 55 Old Ritualists’ cemetery, photo: Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki Suwałki Cultural Paths 03

between Warsaw and Sankt Petersburg. statue of Maria Konopnicka sculpted by 2. ARKADIA POND Along the compositional axis visible from Jan Bohdan Chmielewski was erected. The This man-made water reservoir was cre- the bridge, an urban complex with a num- current bronze statue (by the same author) ated in the marshy bend of the Czarna ber of Classicist buildings was developed. was uncovered in 2010 to commemorate Hańcza river in early 18th century to serve Created by the most renowned architects the great poet’s 100th birthday. In 2014, fol- the Camaldolese mill. In the 19th century, of the post-Congress of Vienna Kingdom of lowing a reconstruction, the former New the pond lost its original function and be- Poland, it is one of the best preserved com- Market Square was opened to the public came a place of leisure and recreation. In plexes from that period in Poland. as Maria Konopnicka square. 1911, the Arkadia Theatre was built nearby, and in 1927, a sports complex was opened. 4. FORMER NEW MARKET SQUARE 5. CHŁODNA STREET During World War II, the pond was back- Staked out in early 1820s, the square was Suwałki are often dubbed Poland’s Pole of fi lled by the Germans, but later restored by referred to as the New Market Square, as Cold. Even though the summers are often Russian Imperial army. Between mid-19th Polish military engineers. it took over the function of the old mar- hot (with temperatures rising to 35°C), the century and the outbreak of World War I, ket square in Tadeusza Kościuszki street, winter holds the city in its cold grip from late Suwałki had a large Russian garrison which 3. BRIDGE OVER THE CZARNA where a municipal park was created. In November to early April. Chłodna (Cold) has a small group of Muslim offi cers (main- HAŃCZA RIVER the 1960s, it was turned into a green area street owes its name not only to the air tem- ly of Tatar descent). At the beginning of the Originally, the bridge over the Czarna with trees, where in 1963, the sandstone perature – because it is shaded and locat- 20th century, they were granted permission Hańcza welcomed travellers arriving in ed along an air corridor, with winds blowing to bury their dead in Suwałki and thus the Suwałki from Warsaw. When Suwałki was Arkadia Pond, photo: Archives of the usually from the West, it is often simply… Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki cemetery was created. However, no head- made province capital in 1816, the city be- cold there. The promenade street is lined by The Czarna Hańcza river, photo: Archives stones have survived there. came an important stop on the railroad of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki atmospheric, historical houses, particularly 56 Maria Konopnicka square, formerly New 57 Market Square, photo: K. Mierzejewski Suwałki Cultural Paths 03

One of the most interesting features of the park is the Freedom Oak, planted in 1923 to commemorate the 132th anniversa- ry of the Constitution of May 3. Other places of interest in the park include: the sundi- al made in Karol Brzostowski’s foundry in the nearby Sztabin, and the fi gurine of St Hedwig from 1862.

THE TEMPLES OF SUWAŁKI

Suwałki has temples of a number of denomina- tions. If you are interested in sacred architecture and religious diversity, you can take the 4.5-km long theme route around with fi ve stops around the city. In the Eastern Orthodox cemetery (Zarzecze 6 street), you can fi nd the wooden Eastern the building at number 16 with its Classicist Orthodox church of All Saints (1891–92) façade. Chłodna also doubles as the Blues built in Russian-Byzantine style. (See p. 55). Walk of Fame with benches dedicated to At Tadeusza Kościuszki 19 street, you will see the the biggest names of the genre. Protestant church (1839–41) designed by Wacław Ritschel. (See p. 44). 6. CONSTITUTION OF MAY 3 PARK Another interesting historic wooden place of wor- Originally, the park was the town square of ship is the molennaya (house of prayer) Suwałki, with the city’s fi rst wooden Roman (1910–12), the largest Old Ritualist temple in Catholic church of the Feast of the Cross and Poland located in Sejneńska street. a cemetery. Established in the 1820s, the Do not miss the two Roman Catholic churches in park is a typical example of early 19th-cen- the city centre. The fi rst one is the church of tury European municipal park project. It was the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus (1838– opened to the public all year: in the summer, 40) at Adama Mickiewicza 3 street, originally built it served as a musical concert venue, and in according to the designs of Enrico Marconi as the winter, the alleys were turned into slides. the Eastern Orthodox church of Dormition of the Virgin Mary. (See p. 40). The second one is the Freedom Oak in the Constitution of May co-cathedral of St Alexander (1820–29) 3 Park, photo: Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki in Marszałka Józefa Piłsudskiego square, a Clas- Chłodna street, photo: Archives of sicist temple designed by Chrystian Piotr Aigner. the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki (See p. 51). Sundial in the Constitution of May 3 Park, 58 photo: Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in 59 Suwałki Suwałki Cultural Paths 03

now Teofi la Noniewicza street was built at The Jewish route that time. Regrettably, it was demolished in 1956. The Jewish cemetery was established Zarzecze street – Adama Mickiewicza street in the 1920s. Houses of prayer and religious – Tadeusza Kościuszki street – Wigierska schools were located in the current Teofi la street – Teofi la Noniewicza street – Gen. Noniewicza street. Józefa Dwernickiego street – Tadeusza The Jewish citizens of Suwałki worked Kościuszki street mainly in trade and commerce. They found- This route will take you to the places ed the fi rst small factories in the city, such as important in the history of the Jew- Ejzyk Lichtensztejn’s hat factory, Abram Gold- ish citizens of Suwałki. Unfortunately, broch’s vinegar factory, or Leopold Kronen- not much of the Jewish heritage has berg’s tobacco and snuff factories. The Jews survived the turbulent 20th century – in Suwałki ran breweries, tanneries, the mill the only remains include the histor- and many shops. ical cemetery in Zarzecze street and Their cultural activities were equally im- a number of houses. Elsewhere on pressive – publishing houses, bookshops and the route, you will have to rely on your reading rooms, as well as photographic studi- imagination. Along the route, there is os and the fi rst cinemas in Suwałki: Edisson a number of information boards. and Momus. The Jewish community had its own schools, a hospital, a senior home, and The history of the Suwałki Jews is inextrica- two athletic clubs – Maccabi and Haszachar. bly connected to the history of the city itself. According to various sources, the Jews The fi rst Jewish community was founded made up around one third of Suwałki’s pop- in 1821. The Great Synagogue in what is ulation. In 1827, 32% of the citizens were Jewish Route MAP LEGEND MAP Tourist information point Tourist Archives State Museum Art galleries, culture centres Statues and monuments Hotels and guest houses Restaurants, bars, cafes Cinema Parking lot ce Post Offi Fuel station Hospital Fire brigade Church Seal of the Board of the Jewish Religious

Community in Suwałki of 20 June 1925, streets Waryńskiego Kościuszki and F. T. old brewery – Wigierska street Noniewicza street (former Jero- T. Midrash – zolimska street) streets L. Waryńskiego ki 72 street street

photo: State Archives in Suwałki, photo: 1. Jewish cemetery – Zarzecze street 2. family house – corner of Abraham Stern’s 3. Kościuszki 47 street T. Jewish middle school – Noniewicza street and the 4. T. mill – Adelson’s 5. Houses of prayer: Beit Jakow and Chewra 6. Noniewicza and T. Synagogue – corner of Noniewicza street 7. T. Stone of Memory – Noniewicza 42 street 8. T. Jewish senior home – Kościuszki 101 street 9. T. Old Jewish hospital – Kościusz- T. house – Samuel Orgelbrand’s 10. Kościuszki 62 T. Hollaender family house – 11. State Archives in Suwałki 60 61 Suwałki Cultural Paths 03

survived World War II. In 1941, the ceme- tery was destroyed by the Germans who used the stone matzevahs (headstones) as construction material for fi refi ghting water tanks and road kerbs. Around 20 matzevahs still exist, with the oldest dated 1856. In the 1970s, the surviving matze- vahs were used to build a lapidarium – the so-called wailing wall commemorating the Jews of Suwałki. The Jewish cemetery has a separate en- trance gate with the Star of David. The large area of the cemetery (3.8 hectares) is a tes- tament to the size of the Jewish population Jewish; in 1934, it was around 31% of the in Suwałki. The cemetery is currently under of Israel. He died in 1942 in Tel Aviv, killed by Ludwika Waryńskiego street), you can see overall population. However, after the de- the care of the Foundation for the Preserva- the British Police. Dawid Stern, Abraham’s a plaque dedicated to Abraham Stern. portations conducted by the Germans in late tion of Jewish Heritage in Poland. brother, was a civil engineer, a government 1939, the Jewish community in Suwałki virtu- offi cial and the chairman of the Engineers 3. JEWISH GYMNASIUM ally ceased to exist. 2. ABRAHAM STERN’S FAMILY HOME Association. On the wall of the house in Tadeusza Kościuszki 47 street Tadeusza Kościuszki street (on the side of corner of Tadeusza Kościuszki and 1. JEWISH CEMETERY Built in the years 1836 to 1839 according to Ludwika Waryńskiego street the design prepared by Karol Majerski, in Zarzecze street Mordechaj and Hadasa Leja Stern lived in the interwar period this building was used The Jewish cemetery was established in the city house owned by the Minc family. In by the local Jewish gymnasium. One of the early 1820s as a part of a complex of cem- December 1907, they had their son Abra- co-founders of the school was Samuel Mohyl- eteries of various denominations. How- ham who would go on to become a poet, lin- ewer, the rabbi of Suwałki, and the teaching ever, only a handful of headstones have guist and a fi ghter for the independent State staff included Szmul Aaron Liberman – pub- lished of “Ho-Emes” (“The Truth”) magazine. Ketubah – a marriage contract between the fi ances Mowsza Arie, son of Izrael, and 4. ADELSON’S MILL AND THE OLD Miss Ita Rejza, daughter of Abraham Izaak, Suwałki, December 1932, photo: State BREWERY Archives in Suwałki Jewish cemetery, photo: Archives of the Teofi la Noniewicza street and Wigierska street Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki Plans of the water mill on the Czarna Other remains of the Jewish community Hańcza river in Suwałki from 1869, photo: in Suwałki include the old brewery, once State Archives in Suwałki known as Mr Kunc’s brewery, and the water Excerpt from the share register of Suwalski Browar Udziałowy (Suwałki Equity mill owned by the Adelson family. Brewery) of 14 April 1939, photo: State 62 Archives in Suwałki 63 Suwałki Cultural Paths 03

known as Małe Raczki. The synagogue, which was devastated by the Germans.” built on a rectangular 30 x 16 m plan, had The Stone of Memory was offi cially uncov- some very interesting architectural solu- ered on 21 January 2016. The monument tions and was one of the most valuable was designed by a local architect, Barto- historic objects in Suwałki. After the out- sz Żyliński. break of World War II, the Nazis deported the Jews of Suwałki to Lithuania and dev- 8. JEWISH SENIOR HOME 5. HOUSES OF PRAYER: BEIT JAKOW astated the synagogue. After the war, the Teofi la Noniewicza 42 street AND CHEWRA MIDRASH 6. SYNAGOGUE temple fell into ruin and was eventually de- molished in 1956. The senior home was funded in the second Teofi la Noniewicza street corner of Teofi la Noniewicza and Ludwika half of the 19th century by the Suwałki Jew Waryńskiego streets The houses of prayer were located near the 7. STONE OF MEMORY and philanthropist, Joszua Burak. synagogue in Jerozolimska street (currently The Classicist Main Synagogue was built in Teofi la Noniewicza street Teofi la Noniewicza street). 1821 in the heart of the old Jewish quarter 9. OLD JEWISH HOSPITAL The site of the old synagogue is marked by Tadeusza Kościuszki 101 street a stone commemorating the Jewish com- munity of Suwałki. On the stone, there is The building was the fi rst public hospital in a plaque in Polish, English and Hebrew say- Suwałki, opened in 1842. In 1860, it was ing: “In the memory of around 5,5 thousand handed over to the local Jewish community. Jewish citizens of Suwałki who were mur- dered during World War II by the German 10. SAMUEL ORGELBRAND’S HOUSE occupants. This is the site of the synagogue Tadeusza Kościuszki 72 street

Main Synagogue in Suwałki, postcard fom In 1841, Samuel Orgelbrand, a well-known World War II period, photo: Archives of the District Museum in Suwałki Suwałki bookseller and publisher, opened Doctors and staff of the Suwałki hospital, a bookshop and library on the ground fl oor 1930s, photo: State Archives in Suwałki of his house. Orgelbrand was a Polish Jew Seal of the Jewish hospital in Suwałki of 24 and a proponent of cultural assimilation of July 1925 with the signature of the Head Physician, photo: State Archives in Suwałki the Jewish population with Poles. He pub- lished books in Polish and Hebrew. In 1858, 64 65 Cultural institutions 03

he commenced what would become a 10- “Dwarves are out there” – Where to look for the dwarves: District Museum in Suwałki year long work on publishing Poland’s fi rst Maria Konopnicka memorial 1. Firebrand, the consummate herbalist – The museum building dates back to early General Encyclopaedia. As a publisher, he tourist trail in front of the administrative building on 20th century and was originally a civic club. was able to skilfully navigate the reefs of the the football stadium. Until the outbreak of World War II, the club Imperial censorship. To meet ten characters from Maria 2. Paco and Maco, the guardians – in front was the hub of Suwałki’s social and cultur- Konopnicka’s seminal fairy tale On of the entrance to the Maria Konopnic- al life. Between September 12th and 13th, it 11. HOLLAENDER FAMILY HOUSE Dwarves and the Little Orphan Mary ka Museum. hosted the Chief of State, Józef Piłsudski. in Suwałki, take the “Dwarves are out 3. Larkey, a bird lover – around the foun- Since 1975, the building has been the Tadeusza Kościuszki 62 street there” tourist trail. tain in the Constitution of May 3 park. seat of the District Museum. In front of the In the 1830s, in the building known as the 4. Underberry, who above all loves eat- museum, you can see the obelisk com- House Under the Columns, Leon Hollae- The dwarves’ fi gures were based on the ing – on the street light post in Chłod- memorating the great scholar and lover of nderski (Leib ben Dawid), a bookseller, ethereal illustrations made by Jan Marcin na street. the Suwałki Region, the Swedish Slavist lithographer and printer from the north- Szancer and made by Piotr 5. King Blink and Cat’s Eye – at the Ma- Knut-Olof Falk (1906–90) and the Swedish I I ern Suwałki Region, opened his shop. Makała’s sculpture studio ła ria Konopnicka statue, in the heart of Jatvingian Expedition. w a P Hollaenderski won acclaim as a philos- in Wroclaw. Taking the a the Maria Konopnicka square. The museum’s collection is divided be- n

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a opher, historian and translator. In 1842, fairy tale trail is also ż 6. Knoot Wood, the chronicler – tween the following departments: Archaeol- ie p a forbidden publications were found in his a great opportunity P Grande-Synthe passage, opposite the ogy, Ethnography, History, Documentation bookshop and he was arrested. He mirac- to see the most in- “Arkadia’” Department Store. of Contemporary History, Geology, Art His- ulously escaped from prison and in 1843 teresting places 7. Ceruly, who loves music and fl owers – tory, and Literary Culture. fl ed to France, where he became an ac- and objects in near the fountain in front of the Suwałki The Archaeology Department, which con- o ieg U ck J t i . r rn a tive member of the Polish patriotic circles. Suwałki. e K Municipal Culture Centre, at the inter- ducts broad studies of the prehistory of the n. J. Dw t ge o a

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k In 1846, he published the history of Polish i Pawła II 7 street). Middle Ages. The Ethnography Department Plac Marszałka Jews over the centuries, titled O Żydach J. Piłsudskiego Chłodna 9. Puckey with an ebook reader – in front collects and studies folk culture artefacts from Plac polskich (“On Polish Jews”). Park Marii of the entrance to the Maria Konopnic- the Suwałki–Augustów Lake District. The Konstytucji Konopnickiej 3 Maja go ka Public Library. most interesting items in the department’s . Waryńskie A. kiewicza L Mic collection include folk textiles and art pieces, ritual items and traditional folk craft. The col- lection of the Geology Department, much of Z Cultural institutions a r z a e iersk c Wig which has been donated to the museum, in- z e nia ierp For a complete Suwałki experience, visit cludes glacial erratics and fossils from across 24 S the local museums and art galleries, or go the Suwałki Region. The History Department 0 200 400 metrów to one of the events organised by the Su- gathers items documenting the history of Zalew Arkadia 0 500 feet wałki Municipal Culture Centre. the region, focusing in particular on the 19th 66 67 Cultural institutions 03

century and the interwar period. The postwar Aside from managing the exhibitions, the you through the growth of the rich and unique District Museum in Suwałki, Tadeusza Kościuszki 81 history of the city and the region is the domain Promotion and Popularisation Department or- culture of Western Balts, and the early Middle street, 16-400 Suwałki; phone no.: +48 875665750; of the Department of Documentation of Con- ganises museum lessons in archaeology, eth- Ages when the Yotvingians were conquered www.muzeum.suwalki.pl; IX–VI Tue–Fri 8.00 AM – temporary History. nography, art and history of the region which by the Order of Teutonic Knights. 4.00 PM (fi rst entrance at 8.15 AM, last entrance at The collection of the Art Department in- always fi nd a receptive audience among the The exhibition Following the paths of his- 3.15 PM), Sat–Sun 9.00 AM – 5.00 PM (fi rst entran- cludes paintings, sculptures and functional local children and youth. The museum also tory presents the history of Suwałki from the ce at 9.15 AM, last entrance at 4.15 PM), VII–VIII th th art from the 18 to 20 century. The museum publishes various scientifi c papers and vol- Camaldolese period to modern day, show- Tue–Sun 9.00 AM – 5.00 PM (fi rst entrance at 9.15 in Suwałki has one of Poland’s largest collec- umes, and hosts scientifi c seminars. ing various aspects of the region and city, AM, last entrance at 4.15 PM). tions of Alfred Wierusz-Kowalski’s paintings Apart from various temporary exhibitions, including its multicultural population, the cit- and sketches, as well as works by Jacek the District Museum in Suwałki also has izens’ social, economic, cultural and educa- Maria Konopnicka Museum Malczewski, Julian Fałat, Christian Breslau- permanent exhibitions: The Oldest Times tional activities, everyday life, the struggle The house in which the museum is locat- er, Teodor Axentowicz, Leon Wyczółkowski, and Following the paths of history, and Al- to restore Poland’s independence, and the ed, was the family home of Maria Konpnicka Stanisław Ignacy Witkiewicz, and a collec- fred Wierusz-Kowalski 1849–1915. role of the military in the city’s history. née Wasiłowska, a well-known Polish poet, tion of the Meissen porcelain and Art Nou- The exhibition The Oldest Times. The Su- The exhibition Alfred Wierusz-Kowalski novelist and commentator, and one of the veau glasswork by Émile Gallé. The tasks wałki Region and Eastern Masuria from 1849–1915 presents the life and works of greatest authors of children’s literature. In the of the Department of Literary Culture of the the end of the ice age to the downfall of this great artist in three museum rooms. 1970s, her childhood home was turned into Suwałki Region is to preserve the heritage Sudovia is a journey through the thousands her museum. The permanent exhibition Ma- and memorabilia related to literature, writers of years which passed since our region turned Józef Piłsudski’s visit in Suwałki, photo: ria Konopnicka 1842–1910. Behind closed Archives of the District Museum in Suwałki and the broadly defi ned literary life of the re- from icy desert into tundra where animals and doors presents the life of Maria Konopnicka Exhibition: Alfred Wierusz-Kowalski gion and north-eastern Poland in general. humans could live. The exhibition will take 1849-1915, photo: Archives of the District and the most important themes of her works. Museum in Suwałki 68 69 Cultural institutions 03

The museum also organises Q and A ses- Military Club of the 14th Anti-Tank Regiment, to the elderly and visitors with disabilities – sions with writers, lectures, museum lessons Wojska Polskiego 40 street, 16-400 Suwałki; there is a wheelchair ramp and a lift. and workshops for children and youth. In the phone no.: +48 261347382, +48 261347380; ht- In 2015, a new branch of the library was garden at the museum, you can fi nd the fairy- tps://14pppanc.wp.mil.pl; visits must be arranged opened, called Midicentrum – Creative tale Dwarves’ Corner (see p. 77). by phone beforehand. Centre for Science and Technology. Midi- Maria Konopnicka Museum, branch of the District centrum is an educational facility using state- Museum in Suwałki, Tadeusza Kościuszki 31 stre- Maria Konopnicka Public of-the-art IT technology to organise various et, 16-400 Suwałki; phone no.: +48 875664133; Library workshops and courses for schools, kin- www.mk.muzeum.suwalki.pl; Tue–Fri 8.00 AM – The Maria Konopnicka Public Library in Su- dergartens, children’s clubs and individual 4.00 OM, Sat–Sun 9.00 AM – 5.00 PM, during su- wałki gathers, catalogues, stores and makes guests. These include language courses, and arts, and animation. From Monday to mmer holidays Tue–Sun 9.00 AM – 5.00 PM. available its collection, focusing in particular computer graphics courses and various Friday, Midicentrum is used by organised on publications related to Suwałki and the re- workshops, including on robotics and auto- groups; individual visitors can come on af- Military Club gion. The library has around 200 thousand mation, technology, natural sciences, music ternoons and weekends. The museum gathers memorabilia of the volumes and over 12 thousand registered Maria Konopnicka Public Library in Suwałki, Emi- army units stationed in Suwałki, mainly of the readers, and also conducts various activi- Long Night of Museums - Maria lii Plater 33a street, 16-400 Suwałki; phone no.: troops of the Suwałki Cavalry Brigade which ties promoting the knowledge of the region, Konopnicka Museum, photo: Archives of the District Museum in Suwałki +48 875656246; http://bpsuwalki.pl. fought in the Invasion of Poland in Septem- the culture of the written word and the his- Maria Konopnicka Public Library, photo: Library Branch no. 1, Szpitalna 60 street, phone ber 1939. The collection includes fi rearms tory of books, and cultural education of the Archives of the Maria Konopnicka Public Library in Suwałk no.: +48 875629474. and melee weapons, uniforms and banners. local community. The library provides free- Midicentrum – a meeting in the library, Library Branch no. 2, Klonowa 41 street; phone Outside, you can see artillery guns and tanks. of-charge Wi-Fi connection. It is accessible photo: Archives of Midicentrum in Suwałki no.: +48 875671109. 70 71 Cultural institutions 03

”Chłodna 20” Modern Art Gallery, Suwałki Munici- pal Culture Centre, Teofi la Noniewicza 71 street, 16-400 Suwałki; phone no: +48 875664211; www. soksuwalki.eu/galerie. Stara Łaźnia Art Gallery The Stara Łaźnia Art Gallery of The Su- wałki Municipal Culture Centre is located right next to the promenade at the Czar- na Hańcza river, in a renovated building of the former town bath house. The art gal- lery is a multifunctional space for culture, sports and leisure, organising workshops

Library Branch no. 3, Północna 26 street; phone cutting-edge sound and lighting systems, and classes on arts, culture, environment no.: +48 875674815. and multimedia devices. protection and sports, and also serves as Midicentrum, Wincentego Witosa 4a street; phone Suwałki Municipal Culture Centre, Papieża a streetworking hub and a venue for meet- no.: +48 875656247; www.midicentrum.pl. Jana Pawła II 5 street, 16-400 Suwałki; phone: ings, debates, performances and concerts. +48 875638510; www.soksuwalki.eu. There is a leisure equipment rental and Suwałki Municipal Culture a cafe in the buildings. Centre ”Chłodna 20” Modern Art Stara Łaźnia Art Gallery, Suwałki Municipal Culture The Suwałki Municipal Culture Centre was Gallery Centre, ul. A. Wajdy 3, phone no.: +48 8756511 30, created in November 2012 by combining “Chłodna 20” is an established address on e-mail: [email protected] the Youth Culture Centre and the Regional the cultural map of Poland. Founded in 1990, Centre for Culture and Arts. It is currently the art gallery has been the venue of numer- The One Painting Gallery the largest cultural institution in the Suwałki ous excellent exhibitions of acclaimed Pol- The One Painting Gallery (Galeria Jedne- Region and a hub of cultural life of Suwałki. ish and foreign artists, as well as debuts of go Obrazu) can be found in a small build- building underwent renovation and now The culture centre has three fl oors of the new generation. The gallery mainly dis- ing on the corner of Tadeusza Kościuszki serves as an art gallery showing the workrooms and workshops for cultural and plays paintings, but also welcomes sculp- street and Józef Piłsudski square. Origi- works of artists from the region, Poland artistic education, including classes in mu- ture, graphics, sketches, photography and nally, the building was a city toll-gate, but and abroad.

sic, dance, amateur theatre and visual arts, new media. After the Art Exhibitions Bureau changed its function a number of times The One Painting Gallery, Suwałki Municipal Cul- the Andrzej Wajda Hall with a two-storey in Suwałki was dissolved, “Chłodna 20” took over the years. In 2008, the decrepit ture Centre, Józefa. Piłsudskiego square at the audience with around 650 seats and a large over and has been the city’s modern art ven- Constitution of May 3 park, 16-400 Suwałki; www. foyer, as well as the Chamber Hall for small- ue ever since. The gallery organises indi- Suwałki Municipal Culture Centre, photo: Archives of the District Museum in soksuwalki.eu/galerie. er-scale musical and theatre performances, vidual and collective exhibitions, open air Suwałki Patio Gallery, Suwałki Municipal Culture Cen- fi lm screenings and meetings, with a modu- exhibitions, Q and A sessions with artists, The One Painting Gallery, photo: Archives tre (foyer), Papieża Jana Pawła II 5 street, 16-400 of the District Museum in Suwałki lar stage and a mobile audience with around performances and workshops, always en- Suwałki; phone no.: +48 875638500; www.soksu- 100 seats. Both halls are equipped with suring outstanding artistic level. Stara Łaźnia Art Gallery, photo: Archives of the District Museum in Suwałki walki.eu/galerie. 72 73 Cultural events 03

Cultural events Sunny Suwałki Station (Stacja Pogodne Suwałki) The calendar of cultural events held in Su- Held in January, this festival promotes wałki is quite rich and diverse, especially in Suwałki as Poland’s “Pole of Cold”. The the spring and in the summer, ensuring that programme includes winter runs, nordic everyone will fi nd something to their taste. The walking, polar bear plunges, dog sled races, most popular recurring events include: Suwałki as well as fun and games with UśMich the Blues Festival, the Camaldolese Fair, the Cav- Bear. The festival also includes meetings alry Picnic and Sunny Suwałki Station. (For with famous adventurers and polar explor- a detailed calendar of events, see p. 120). ers, screenings of fi lms on polar explora- tion, music concerts, and culinary shows

The Cavalry Picnic, photo: K. Mierzejewski and tasting of the local winter cuisine. One Sunny Suwałki Station (Stacja Pogodne of the main attractions of the Sunny Suwałki Suwałki), photo: Archives of the Municipal Station is the dog sled village. Offi ce in Suwałki Suwałki Blues Festival, photo: ″Dwutygodnik Suwalski″ 74 75 Attractions for children 03 Attractions readers that dwarves are indeed out there. But where to fi nd them? In Suwałki, young for children explorers should head to the Dwarves’ Cor- ner at Maria Konopnicka’s home where she Suwałki was the childhood home of Lechosław was born and spent her early childhood. In Marszałek – the co-creator of the legendary the scenic garden in the backyard of the Polish cartoons about Reksio the dog and Bol- Maria Konpnicka Museum, the hosts of the ek and Lolek. The city was also the birthplace Dwarves’ Corner, King Blink with his entou- of Maria Konopnicka, whose books became rage and Annie the Nanny will take their an inspiration to create the Suwałki Dwarves’ guests for an unforgettable adventure in the Corner and the tourist route named ”Dwarves fairy-tale world created by Konopnicka. are out there” intended for (but not limited to) The magical guides have prepared special younger visitors, offering a great opportunity quests for young adventurers. You will need for some quality family time. to help Little Orphan Mary fi nd her lost geese The city has plenty of other attractions for which scattered around the garden. The ex- a number of smaller stages in the city centre, children, from various events and festivals plorers will also try their hand at hunting for the The Cavalry Picnic blues breakfasts, acoustic performances, and through city quests to places such as the treasure of the seven dwarves – King Blink’s (Piknik Kawaleryjski) late night club concerts and jam sessions – aquapark. key, crown and jewels. Next to the magic well, Held in June, the Cavalry Picnic is an open-air a dream come true for any blues music fan. Annie the Nanny and King Blink will tell the event promoting the cavalry traditions of Su- The festival welcomes international blues Dwarves’ Corner young adventurers the legend of the origins wałki. The programme includes a parade of stars and newcomers alike, creating an unfor- In the book The Dwarves and the Little Or- of Suwałki, and then take part in a game on cavalry units through the city streets, cavalry gettable atmosphere enjoyed by thousands of phan Mary, Maria Konopnicka assures the a most unusual board with huge pawns! contests and performances, as well as re-en- guests from around the world. For more infor- actments, horsemanship competition and the mation, go to www.suwalkiblues.com. open competition in light carriage driving for the museum director prize. The picnic is ac- Camaldolese Fair companied by the presentation of the military The market is organised every August as part equipment of the 14th Anti-Tank Regiment, of the celebration of the city festival. Mouth-wa- a collectors’ exchange and horseback riding. tering breads, sausages and cold meats, fra- It is the largest cavalry festival east of the grant honeys, as well as folk handcraft, such Vistula river. as lace or sculptures – all that and more is wait- ing for you at the Camaldolese Fair. Suwałki Blues Festival One of the largest and most important blues Camaldolese Fair, Suwałki Gospel Choir, photo: Archives of the Suwałki Municipal festivals in Poland and Europe, held always Culture Centre in the fi rst half of July. Four days of live con- Children’s Day in the Suwałki Municipal certs, three professional open-air stages plus Culture Centre, photo: Archives of the Suwałki Municipal Culture Centre 76 77 Attractionsfor children 03

DWARVES ARE OUT THERE

Be it fairy-tale or be it real What you think, I do not care. But tell you this I will Dwarves are out there! Maria Konopnicka, On Dwarves and the Little Orphan Mary

Other attractions for children Other attractions for families with children visiting Suwałki include: ◗ cultural events, such as: “Wigraszek” In- ternational Festival of Children and Youths Theatres, or “Muszelki Wigier” Internatio- But that is not all! In the Corner, the nal Song and Dance Festival, as well as children will also fi nd a small theatre, the Sunday morning children’s theatre. chairs and tables of both dwarves and ◗ museum lessons and exhibitions, inclu- giants, magical mirrors and a merry-go- ding the archaeological exhibition The Ol- round taken straight from the times of Ma- dest Times in the District Museum and the ria Konopnicka. The sounds of the barrel historical exhibition Following the paths of organ will help them go back in time. Fi- history, as well as the open-air exhibition nally, the young adventurers will have the of military equipment at the Military Club; opportunity to have their photo taken… on ◗ workshops and classes in Midicentrum, a royal throne. an interactive educational facility which The Dwarves’ Corner is the fi rst stop on helps children develop skills in using new the Suwałki Region Fairy-tale Trail (if you technologies for studying and pursuing want to know more, go to www.basniowysz- their interests; lak.pl). ◗ the aquapark and the children’s playground; ◗ Dwarves’ Corner, garden at the Maria Konopnicka the skatepark, the children’s playground, Museum, Tadeusza Kościuszki 31 street, 16-400 the parkour park and the tennis court at Suwałki; phone: +48 875664133; Tue–Fri 8.30 AM the Arkadia Pond; ◗ city quests – a great way to bring more „Wigraszek” International Children and – 3.30 PM (last entrance at 2.30 PM), Sat–Sun Youth Theatre Festival, photo: Archives of 9.30 AM – 4.30 PM (last entrance at 3.30 PM), fun to family walks which combines sight- the Suwałki Municipal Culture Centre during the summer holidays Tue–Sun 9.00 AM – seeing with solving puzzles and uncove- Larkey the Dwarf at the fountain in the ring mysteries. And in Suwałki, there are Constitution of May 3 park, photo: Archives 5.00 PM (fi rst entrance to the garden at 9.30 AM, of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki last entrance at 3.30 PM). mysteries aplenty… 78 Classes in Midicentrum, photo: Archives 79 of the Maria Konopnicka Public Library in Suwałki Stay

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4 4 Plac Plac 8 Marii 8Konopnickiej Marii Konopnickiej7 7 SZYPLISZKI SZYPLISZKI 4 4 STADION STADION BUDZISKO BUDZISKO Łąkowa Łąkowa 5 6 5 6 LEKKOATLETYCZNYLEKKOATLETYCZNY 5 5

9 9 9 8 9 8 2 10 2 10 12 12 14 10 13 11 14 10 13 11 15 15 3 3 5 6 7 5 6 7 3 4 2 3 4 2 3 3 6 Park 6 Park Konstytucji Konstytucji 16 1 1611 18 19 1 20 11 18 19 20 17 17 3 Maja z 1820 r. 2 3 Maja z 1820 r. 2 RACZKOWSKA RACZKOWSKA 1 1 Bulwary nad Bulwary nad MAP LEGEND apersk apersk Tourist Information Centre Town Hall 21 22 21 Czarną22 Hańczą Czarną Hańczą S a S a Church Accommodation Concathedral of St Alexander Bulwarowa Bulwarowa Hospital Public Library 1 District Museum in Suwałki K K Cinema Fire brigade a a 2 Maria Konopnicka Museum (OSiR) (OSiR) w w Cemetery (of 7 denominations) a a Fuel station Police station ler ler Zespół obiektów Zespół obiektów y y Municipal beach Eurocamping js js College ka ka Hiking and cycling route Post Office Municipal Office sportowo-rekreacyjnych sportowo-rekreacyjnych 2 2 Restaurant Suwałki ARENA District Office Pharmacy “Dwarves are out there” route “Stara Łaźnia” Art Gallery Hotel Jewish route Foot bridge Bike trail Bike station with electric charger Pedestrian and cycle bridge Hiking trail Bike station Slipway 1 1 Classicist route Biker Service Area Pier 80 1 1 Parking lot Suwałki Culture Centre STADION STADION PIŁKARSKI PIŁKARSKI

FILIPOWSKA FILIPOWSKA Attractionsfor children 04

In Suwałki, you can stay active regardless SUWAŁKI’S ATHLETES of the time of year. The Czarna Hańcza riv- er cuts through the city and in its bend, you Suwałki has always been a home of sports and can fi nd the man-made Arkadia pond com- accomplished athletes have brought recognition plete with sports and recreation infrastruc- to the city already in the fi rst decades of the ture. In the northern part of the city, you previous century. Before World War II, Suwałki can enjoy one of Poland’s largest aqua- was known for outstanding results achieved by Active parks, and on the outskirts of Suwałki, just its equestrians and ice skaters. In the recent 3 km north-east of the city centre, winter decades, badminton has become the local sports lovers can enjoy themselves on the specialty. Michał Logosz and Robert Mateusiak, in Suwałki Dąbrówka ski lift, which also has skiing and world-class badminton players representing snowboarding equipment rental. If you are the local Litpol-Malow Suwałki Badminton Club looking for more serious skiing or riding, were ranked in the top 16 at the 2000 Olympic head to the winter sports resort in Szelment, Games in Sydney, and at the 2004 Olympic around 15 km north of Suwałki (see p. 108). Games in Athens, and also won medals in Eu- Cyclists will defi nitely enjoy the city’s large ropean Championships. The best-known active network of bike paths and the cycling trails female athlete from Suwałki is Maria Andrejczyk, outside Suwałki, leading to the Augustów representing LUKS Hańcza Suwałki athletic club, Landscape Park, the Wigry National Park, who was ranked fourth in javelin throw at the the Augustów Forest and to the town of 2016 Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro. Marek Sejny, located around 30 km from Suwałki Krejpcio won two Polish Championships titles in (more about the areas around Suwałki in kyokushin karate, and the Suwałki Kyokushin chapter 5 Around Suwałki, p. 96). Karate Club is widely known for honing 04

A bike trip, photo: K. Mierzejewski

83 Sportsand recreational facilities 04

Poland. The complex includes a recrea- a hairdressing salon, and a sports equip- tional area, a professional swimming pool, ment shop. The water park is a part of the baths, saunas and a salt therapy grotto. leisure and entertainment centre in Su- The water park has a number of pools for wałki, which also includes the nearby Su- swimming, splashing and wading, water wałki Municipal Culture Centre and Loft jets, cascades, geysers, spray mushrooms, 1898 Hotel.

massage jets and three whirlpools. If you Aquapark Suwałki, Papieża Jana are looking for some quiet relaxation, try the Pawła II 7 street, 16-400 Suwałki; phone no.: underwater massage decks. If it’s adren- +48 875626222; e-mail: [email protected], aline you’re after, head to the 56-m long www.aquapark.suwalki.pl. open water slide and two enclosed slides which are over 100-m long and have plenty Eurocamping of twists and turns. Eurocamping no. 133, which belongs to Aside from the slides and pools, the park the Auto Camper Service International also has a number of bars, a conference (ACSI) network, is one of the top camp- room, a rehabilitation clinic, a fi tness club, ervan sites in the Podlasie Province. The new talents in this discipline. The sailors from Sports Suwałki have achieved considerable success in and recreational Cadet class, including winning World Champions titles. Suwałki are also the home of Tomasz facilities Warakomski, a chess Grandmaster. Swimming is another discipline in which Suwałki athletes Suwałki has ranked third among district excel – Joanna Mendak, a local talent, won cities in the “Leader in supporting mass multiple Paralympic medals and world titles. sports activities” contest. The distinction Among the active athletic and sports clubs in was awarded in recognition of Suwałki’s Suwałki, by far the most successful is the men’s efforts to support various sports activities, volleyball club Ślepsk Malow Suwałki which but also to develop convenient and acces- plays in Poland’s top division (PlusLiga), the Lit- sible sports and recreational infrastructure pol-Malow Suwałki Badminton Club, and the for locals and tourists alike. Wigry Suwałki football club competing in Polish second division league. Wojciech Kowalewski, Suwałki Aquapark Wigry’s former goalkeeper, went on to play in the The Aquapark is one of the largest sports fi rst division for Legia Warsaw and a host of fore- investment projects in Suwałki in recent ign clubs; he was also the starting goalkeeper for years. It is also one of the largest and most Poland at the Euro 2008 tournament in Austria advanced water parks in north-eastern and Switzerland. The aquapark, photo: K. Mierzejewski 84 Eurocamping camp site, photo: Archives 85 of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki Sportsand recreational facilities 04

them is the climbing wall built with rock-im- itating panels which has climbing routes with different diffi culty levels. The wall is quite large, 18 × 9 metres and with the surface area of 165 square metres, which means that it can accommodate up to 20 persons at a time (climbers and belayers). camping site is fenced off, with grass Instructors are available on site for begin- and gravel surface, offering 42 conven- Municipal stadium Wigry Hostel ners to provide all the necessary informa- ient parking places with access to water An all-year football stadium with under-soil Located near the football stadium, at the tion and show safe belaying techniques. and electricity for campervans and mo- heating and all the necessary utilities and Arkadia Pond, Wigry Hostel is a popular Basic training is free of charge and man- tor homes, as well as tent places. The fol- facilities, including changing rooms for destination among individual visitors, as datory for beginner climbers. lowing facilities are made available to the players and referees, medical rooms and well as sports teams and summer camps. In the adjacent building, you will fi nd guests: washroom, showers and toilets rooms for team personnel, pitch manage- The hostel has 24 rooms (singles, doubles a short course (25 × 12.5 m) swimming (accessible to persons with disabilities), ment staff, VIPs and the media, a confer- and triples, and 4- and 5-person rooms) pool with six lanes, the minimum depth of chemical toilet, washing machine, dryer, ence room, sanitary facilities, and training offering a total ot 54 comfortable beds. 1.20 m and the maximum depth of 3.80 m. meal preparation and dish washing site, facilities (gym, athletic recovery). The sta- Guests can also book one of the three There is also an audience stand which landline phone, Wi-Fi connection, safety dium has commentator booths and elec- professional football pitches for practice, can accommodate up to 250 people. The deposit box and a large car park. Catering tronic scoreboard. Next to the pitch, there football matches or children’s events. The swimming pool is sometimes used for div- is also available. Credit cards are accept- is a parking lot for production trucks. There hostel has a large, guarded parking lot. ing practice. It is also the training pool for

ed. The camping site also has facilities for are also two practice pitches. Wigry Hostel, Zarzecze 26 street, 16-400 Suwałki; the swimmers of Olimpijczyk Suwałki stu- emptying chemical toilets and grey water Municipal stadium, Zarzecze 26 street. phone no.: +48 875667220; e-mail: hostelwigry@ dent athletic club, and is also used for PE tanks, and refi lling potable water tanks. osir.suwalki.pl, https://hostelwigry.pl. lessons for school children from Suwałki Animals are also welcome. and the region. Wigry Suwałki stadium, photo: K. Eurocamping 133, Zarzecze 26 street, 16-400 Su- Mierzejewski Climbing wall, swimming The gym in the swimming pool building wałki; phone no.: +48 875673307; e-mail: hostelwi- Municipal Sports and Recreation Centre pool and gym has two rooms. The fi rst room has the car- (OSiR) arena, photo: Archives of OSiR [email protected], www.osir.suwalki.pl. The Suwałki Sports and Recreation Centre dio equipment: treadmills, rowing machine, Wigry Hostel, photo: Archives of OSiR offers a number of sports activities. One of elliptical, steppers and bikes. You will also 86 87 Sportsand recreational facilities 04

fi nd equipment for back, legs, chest and including Polish Junior Athletics Champi- abdominal exercises, as well as medicine onships and Polish Championships in com- balls, mattresses, jump ropes and tapes bined events and relays. The stadium has for stretching. The second room has equip- the following facilities: ment for weight, bodybuilding and reha- ◗ an 8-lane 400-m long circular run- bilitation exercises, including machines ning track with Mondotrack surface, for exercising chest, back muscles, pec- an 8-lane straight running track for toral girdle, thighs, calves, and triceps and 100 m and 110 m events, hurdling and biceps muscles. The room has barbells steeplechase. (12 to 35 kgs), dumbbells (1 to 10 kgs), ◗ a 4-lane long jump and triple jump runway, weight plates up to 300 kgs, and workout ◗ a high jump pad, benches. ◗ a pole vault pit, ◗ Climbing wall, swimming pool and gym, Wojska two shot put circles, ◗ Polskiego 2 street, 16-400 Suwałki; phone no.: a cage for discus and hammer throw, ◗ +48 875650236; www.osir.suwalki.pl. a javelin throw runway, ◗ a professional warm-up area, Track & fi eld stadium ◗ roofed stands for 1,040 spectators and The Suwałki track& fi eld stadium has been electronic time measurement (photo fi - the venue of a number of athletics events, nish) facilities. The stadium also has accommodation experience, with top-quality bars, rails, walls with 30 beds, changing rooms and show- and other obstacles to work out and improve ers, parking lots with designated spaces your parkour skills. The street workout and for persons with disabilities and coaches, parkour park is an excellent spot for outdoor as well as tennis courts and a practice foot- exercise and getting into shape.

ball pitch. The complex is a perfect venue Street workout and parkour park, Zastawie 35 stre- for a sports camp. et, 16-400 Suwałki; www.osir.suwalki.pl. Track & fi eld stadium, Wojska Polskiego 17 stre- et, 16-400 Suwałki; phone no.: + 48 875664187, Suwałki Beach Arena 501805285; www.osir.suwalki.pl. Suwałki Beach Arena is a beach sports fa- cility with a full-sized beach soccer pitch and Street workout three full-sized beach volleyball courts, and and parkour park an audience stand with over 300 seats. Im- The park is designed to ensure the safe- mensely popular from the moment it was ty of all users regardless of their level and opened, the Beach Arena hosts the annu- al Pogodne Suwałki Cup tournament which Track & fi eld stadium, photo: Archives brings top beach volleyballers to the city, as of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki well as a number of other beach volley and Street Workout & Parkour Park, photo: Archives of 1Move Street Workout & beach soccer competitions. Parkout 88 89 Sportsand recreational facilities 04

Clay tennis courts, Wojska Polskiego 17 street, 16-400 Suwałki; phone no.: +87 5664187; www.osir.suwalki.pl. Suwałki Arena Suwałki Arena, located next to the municipal stadium in Zarzecze street, is the largest and most advanced sports and entertainment are- na in the Podlasie Province, with the usable area of over 6 thousand square metres. The sports hall is 12.80 m high and has volley- ball courts, basketball and handball courts, as well as audience stands for 2,121 spec- tators. There is also an 8-m high training hall. The arena is used by schools, individuals and businesses for sports practice and events. It also doubles as a concert hall.

Suwałki Arena, Zarzecze 26 street, 16-400 Suwał- ki; www.osir.suwalki.pl. Shopping Mall with six bowling lanes and has the capacity of around 900 people per MK Bowling Entertainment pool tables, and a restaurant serving piz- hour. There is a skiing and snowboarding Centre za from a wood-fi red oven. school, ski and snowboard rental, a bar, Suwałki Beach Arena at the Arkadia pond, Wojska Pol- MK Bowling is an entertainment centre lo- MK Bowling Entertainment Centre, Generała Józe- a sauna and free parking. skiego 2 street, 16-400 Suwałki; www.osir.suwalki.pl. cated on the second fl oor of Suwałki Plaza fa Dwernickiego 15 street, 16-400 Suwałki; phone Dąbrówka ski lift, Dąbrówka 10, 16-400 Suwał- no.: +48 876182200; www.mkbowling.pl. ki; phone no.: +48 875630978, +48 722310688, Lawn tennis courts +48 509690925, +48 501269888; www.dabrowka. The recently renovated tennis courts with Dąbrówka ski lift suwalki.pl. synthetic turf are located at the Arkadia The winter ski lift located around 3 km from Pond. Courts are booked for 50-minute pe- the city centre, in the vicinity of the Wigry Stary Folwark Marina riods; the price depends on the day and time. National Park, with a 300-m long slope with The marina is located at the scenic Lake

Lawn tennis courts, Zastawie street, 16-400 Suwał- snow machines and lighting. The button lift Wigry, around 12 km from Suwałki city cen- ki; phone no: +48 875650236; www.osir.suwalki.pl. tre. The vicinity of the Wigry National Park Suwałki Beach Arena, photo: Archives creates a unique atmosphere and the facili- of OSiR Clay tennis courts ty offers excellent options for relaxation and Lawn tennis courts, photo: Archives Clay tennis courts are located in Wojska Pol- of OSiR active leisure. Stary Folwark Marina has 20 skiego street, next to the track & fi eld stadium. Suwałki Arena, photo: Archives beds and a conference room for 30 persons. The courts are booked for 50-minute periods; of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki Guests can use a large terrace with a view the price depends on the day and time. of Lake Wigry, water equipment and bicycle 90 91 Sportsand recreational facilities 04

rental, a bonfi re site, a barbecue shed, as geological, historic and ethnographic val- In the summer, the municipal beach has well as a sauna which is very popular on au- ue, among others the Suwałki Landscape Arkadia Pond with lifeguards on duty. The beach has des- tumn and winter evenings. There is a host of Park, Lake Hańcza and Lake Wigry, the municipal beach ignated zones for children (up to 30 cm sights and places of interest nearby, espe- Wigry National Park, and the Augustów The Arkadia pond is a picturesque man- in depth), non-swimmers (up to 1.20 m in cially the old Camaldolese monastery. Forest. At the village of Rygol, the Czar- made reservoir fed by the Czarna Hańcza depth), and for those who can swim (up to th Stary Folwark Marina, Stary Folwark 55d, 16-412 na Hańcza joins the Augustów Canal and river. It was created in the early 18 cen- 2.50 m in depth). Suwałki, phone no.: +48 602230106, e-mail: przy- fl ows towards the Belarusian border, and tury as a pond at the water mill. It has You can also rent various water equip- [email protected], www.przystanstaryfolwark.pl. drains into the Neman river on the Lith- a charming little island in the middle. The ment, such as rowing boats, kayaks and uanian-Belarusian border. The river has clean waters of the pond are home to var- water bikes. In the vicinity of the beach, The Czarna Hańcza river a very diverse character, changing from ious aquatic and amphibious species, you will fi nd a cafe and a children’s play- The Czarna Hańcza is the longest riv- a small stream into almost a white-water among them mallards, gulls, coots and ground, as well as tennis courts, a skate er of the Suwałki Region, winding along river. On the section from Lake Wigry to swans. The area of the pond is 11 hec- park, an outdoor gym, and the street work- 141.70 km, of which 107.80 runs on the Augustów Canal, the Czarna Hańcza be- tares, the maximum depth is 5 metres; it is out and parkour park. Polish side of the border; the section of comes one of Poland’s most beautiful kay- around 700 m long and 400 m wide. the river in the city of Suwałki is 13 km aking trails. In 2016, the Czarna Hańcza Suwałki riverside long. The river originates in the moraine was awarded the title of the River of the Stary Folwark marina, promenade hills of the northern Suwałki Region and Year, with the Bydgoszcz section of the photo: K. Mierzejewski The promenade at the Czarna Hańcza riv- The promenade at the Czarna Hańcza river fl ows through areas of unique landscape, Vistula and the Bzura as runners-up. - Stara Łaźnia Art Gallery, photo: Archives er, located between 24 Sierpnia and Adama 92 of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki 93 Bike paths and trails 04

trips, as well as information and assistance in fi nding and booking accommodation in biker-friendly hotels and guest houses. Other Biker Friendly Places around Su- wałki can be found at the Municipal Sports and Recreation Centre, the District Muse- um, Maria Konopnicka Museum, on the Ma- ria Konopnicka square, in the water park, on Eurocamping 133, in Loft 1898 Hotel and Tatarak restaurant, in Logos Hotel, on Orlen fuel station, in the Hańcza Hotel and Restaurant, and at the Dąbrówka ski lift.

Mickiewicza streets, is a unique place with and the second along Sejneńska, Filipows- foot and bike paths, parking lots, lawns ka, Ignacego Krasickiego and 1 Maja streets. and fl ower meadows, and recreational in- Next to the bus station in Utrata street you frastructure. On the promenade, there is will fi nd a Biker Service Area. a renovated historic bath house, which is Suwałki is located on the Green Velo now used by Stara Łaźnia Art Gallery, and East of Poland Cycling Trail which runs also has a leisure equipment rental point across Eastern Poland. To learn more about and a cafe. Green Velo, head to the Tourist Informa- tion Centre in Suwałki (Księdza Kazimier- Bike paths and trails za Hamerszmita 16 street). The Centre is recognised as a Biker Friendly Place on Cyclists in Suwałki can use a large network the Green Velo trail, providing bikers with of bike paths, most of which are shared use safe, free-of-charge place for parking their paths. The most interesting path runs along bicycles and resting, as well as information Tadeusza Kościuszki street and the Czarna on bicycle rental, the nearby bicycle shops Hańcza river, and around the Arkadia Pond. and repair services, and the available bike You can also try the two longest bike paths in the city: one leads along Generała Kazimi- Arkadia Pond, photo: Archives of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki erza Pułaskiego and Mikołaja Reja streets, Car Free Day, photo: Archives 94 of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki 95 Wigry National Park 05

Suwałki is a great starting point for a trip the largest and second deepest lake in the to the Wigry National Park and the Su- Suwałki Region. The northern part of the wałki Landscape Park. Both parks are lo- Park, which overlaps with the Eastern cated close to the city and have plenty of Augustów Lake District, is hilly, while the attractions, offering excellent infrastructure southern part, located on the Augustów for active leisure: hiking, biking, kayaking, Plain, is more fl at. The forests, which are horseback riding, sailing, angling or diving, part of the Augustów Forest, cover 60% of Around as well as tourist trails and discovery paths the Park’s area, which also includes open where you can learn more about the unique fi elds, meadows and villages. character of our region. The main roads in the Park are open for traffi c, but we strongly recommend using Suwałki Wigry a bike (there is a bike trail from Suwałki to the Park), your own feet or a kayak, and National Park cross-country skis in the winter. The Park has plenty of tourist trails and paths with the Located just east of Suwałki, the Wigry necessary infrastructure. The total length of National Park (WNP) has 42 natural wa- marked land trails for hiking and biking, as ter reservoirs which take 19% of the Park’s well as discovery paths in the Wigry Nation- overall area. In the heart of the Park, you al Park is around 300 km. Where the trails will fi nd the beautiful Lake Wigry (aver- lead through valuable and sensitive eco- age depth 15 m, maximum depth 74.20 m), systems, wooden walkways, bridges and 05

Wigry National Park, Lake Suchar, photo: P. Pajer-Giełażys 96 97 WigryNational Park 05

DISCOVERY PATHS One of the most peculiar elements of the Park are small, dystrophic lakes found in the middle of the forest. You can reach them by taking the “Suchary” discovery path, which runs through the forest and peat bogs with plenty of characteristic fl ora and fau- na. On the Forest (Las) discovery path you will see different types of forests. The Park has a number of discovery paths which will allow you to uncover the secrets gangways have been built which make it of this unique place: “Amphibians” (Płazy), easier to move through those areas, but “Lakes” (Jeziora), “The Woods” (Puszcza), also serve as a tourist attraction. In the “The Forest Resources” (Eksploatacja dóbr Park, you will also fi nd observational tow- puszczańskich) and “The Gifts of Nature” ers and lookout platforms offering excel- (Dary Natury). lent vistas, as well as sheds with tables and posters, the exhbition also has a number of Today, it is the seat of Wigry Pro Foun- benches where you can rest. EXHIBITIONS interesting items, such as a dug-out boat, dation and Pope John Paul II Museum, There is a number of exhibitions in the a timber boat, a fi sh cutter, an ice crusher, which has the memorabilia of Pope John Park attractions Wigry National Park. In Krzywe, where a model of the roe incubation system, and Paul II’s visit when he stopped here during Aside from the wild nature and beauti- the Tourist Information Centre and Park the equipment used for fi shing and gather- his 1999 pilgrimage to Poland. Visitors can ful scenery, the Wigry National Park also Headquarters are located, you can see ing crayfi sh. You can also see a number of see the crypts and monastery gardens, has plenty of cultural heritage sites, with the nature exhibition At Lake Wigry (Nad taxidermy animals and watch educational there is also a number of exhibitions. its crown jewel, the former Camaldolese Wigrami) and the ethnographic exhibition fi lms on fi shing. Former Camaldolese monastery in Wigry – Wigry monastery. Saving from oblivion (Ocalić od zapom- WNP Tourist Information Centre, Krzywe 82, Pro Foundation, Wigry 11, 16-402 Suwałki; phone nienia). The latter exhibition, which in- 16-400 Suwałki; phone no.: +48 875632562, +87 no.: +48 875662499; www.wigry.pro. WILDLIFE cludes 800 items, has been put on display 5632540, +48 510992672; www.wigry.org.pl. The Park has been a safe refuge for a num- in the forest lodge, in an adapted storage LAKE CRUISE ber of endangered species which were building from the 1920s. FORMER CAMALDOLESE Near the monastery in Wigry, you will fi nd saved through the appropriate protection In Czerwony Folwark, you will fi nd anoth- MONASTERY IN WIGRY a small harbour offering cruises on Lake programmes. The most notable example er exhibition, The History and Traditions Built on a peninsula, the monastery com- Wigry, often touted as Poland’s most beau- is the European beaver which has since of Fishing at Lake Wigry (Dzieje i tradyc- plex is the most prominent landmark around tiful lake. The cruise covers several dozen become the symbol of the Park. Other in- je rybołówstwa nad Wigrami). Aside from Lake Wigry. It was founded by King John II kilometres, crossing the fl ow of the Czar- teresting wildlife species in the Park in- Casimir in 1667, but after the downfall of the na Hańcza river which runs through the clude white-tailed eagles, wolves, lynxes Sleigh ride in the Wigry National Park, Republic of Poland and the partitions, the lake and offering magnifi cent views of the photo: B. Perkowska and mountain hares. The lakes are abun- Camaldolese monks were forced to aban- astonishingly diverse landscape around Former Camaldolese monastery in Wigry, dant with vendace and schelly. photo: K. Mierzejewski don the monastery. Lake Wigry. 98 99 Suwałki Landscape Park 05

GREEN VELO TRAIL the Landscape Park is one of the most The Wigry National Park is located along picturesque corners of Poland. Although the Green Velo East of Poland Cycling it is relatively small, taking only 6,284 Trail with designated Biker Service Are- hectares, the Suwałki Landscape Park as and Biker Friendly Places. To enter the is surprisingly rich in unique and diverse Park, you will need an entrance ticket. post-glacial formations, boasting some of the most beautiful moraines, kames Suwałki and eskars in the country. Only in the Su- wałki Lanscape Park will you able to see Landscape Park the hanging valley and massive boulder deposits. The Suwałki Landscape Park (SLP) was SLP is a land of tall hills and deep val- established in 1976 as the fi rst landscape leys which are often fi lled with lakes. Such park in Poland. With its unique terrain height differences and steep slopes, which relief and unique natural environment, seem more suitable to a submontane

WIGRY MUSEUM IN STARY FOLWARK In Stary Folwark in the Wigry National Park, you can visit the Wigry Museum, which dis- plays the natural and cultural values of this protected area. The museum is located in an old hydrobiological station which in the years 1927 to 1939 was the workplace of the pio- neer of the science of limnology in Poland, Alfred Lityński. In the museum, you can learn offers a glimpse into the underwater world a lot about Lake Wigry, from the depths and of Lake Wigry.

the organisms living deep beneath the sur- Alfred Lityński Wigry Museum, Stary Folwark 50, face to the nature on the banks. The museum 16-402 Stary Folwark; phone no.: +48 875630152; shows educational fi lms and presentations, www.wigry.org.pl/mw. and also serves as an educational facility, or- ganising classes for children and youth. Lake Wigry seen from the village of In the summer, you can go on a trip on Bryzgiel, photo: P. Pajer-Giełażys a glass-bottom boat named “Leptodora The Wigry Museum, photo: Archives of the II”. The boat takes nine passengers and Wigry National Park Góra Cisowa (Yew Hill) in the Suwałki 100 Landscape Park, photo: Archives of the 101 Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki Suwałki Landscape Park 05

region, are seldom found on lowlands. BOULDER DEPOSITS AND DEAD-ICE Nearly 65% of the Landscape Park are One of the greatest attractions of the Land- farming areas, mainly fi elds and mead- scape Park are the boulder deposits. There ows, making the unusual terrain relief is no other place in Poland which would have clearly visible. as many boulders on such a small area. The central part of the SLP is a deep ba- Park attractions sin with steep slopes on all sides, named In order to experience the unique atmos- the Szeszupa Deep after the river fl owing phere of the SLP, take one of the discov- on its bottom. Head there to see the most ery paths or hiking or biking trails which beautiful dead-ice formations in Poland. will take you through the natural and cul- tural treasures of the area. (For detailed LAKES information on the routes of the paths and Fed by underground springs and free of any trails, go to the Suwałki Landscape Park surface pollution, the lakes in the Suwałki website at www.spk.org.pl and the “Tury- Landscape Park are among the cleanest styka” [Tourism] tab). in Poland. In the western part of the park, there is a deep tunnel valley and on its bot- YEW HILL tom, Poland’s deepest lake – Lake Hańcza The most characteristic elevation in the Su- (108.50 m in depth). wałki Lanscape Park, known as the Yew Hill Kleszczowieckie Lakes (near the village (Góra Cisowa), can be spotted from nearly of Smolniki) are often considered the most every part of the Park. This 256-m high con- beautiful lowland lakes group in Poland. ical hill is sometimes dubbed the Fuji of Su- The most stunning is Lake Jaczno, sur- wałki. It is also known under the names of rounded by hills rising around 120 m above Gulbienie Hill (Góra Gulbieńska) or Poured the water table. Equally beautiful are the Hill (Góra Sypana). The local legend asso- Szurpilskie Lakes with Lake Szurpiły ciates the latter name with the small lake and the Castle Hill (Góra Zamkowa) rising at its foot known as the Dug Lake (Jezioro between them (see p. 104). Kopane). SMOLNIKI MAGNETIC ANOMALY Smolniki is a large holiday village in the The Suwałki Landscape Park is known not Suwałki Landscape Park, named after the only for its stunning scenery, but also by the pitch burners (Polish smolarze) who in the polymetallic ore deposits located at 800– 2,000 m below ground, which create a lo- Lake Kleszczowieckie, photo: Archives of the Suwałki Landscape Park cal magnetic anomaly, causing the needle Suwałki Landscape Park. to deviate from the north. Photo: H. Stojanowski 102 103 Suwałki Landscape Park 05

16th century established the fi rst pitch-burn- ing hamlets, known as budy, in the region. In Smolniki, you will fi nd a lookout point on the most beautiful landscapes of the Su- wałki Region. Near the village, Andrzej Waj- da shot some scenes for his 1999 fi lm Pan Tadeusz, including the Napoleon’s army march on Moscow.

MOLENNAYA IN WODZIŁKI The Suwałki Landscape Park is also a trove of material culture treasure. One of the most notable sacred objects in the Park is the wooden Old Ritualist molen- naya (house of prayer) in the village of Wodziłk, built in 1921. river in the east, and from the Szeszupa YOTVINGIAN REMAINS river basin in the north to the Biebrza river One of the most interesting archaeologi- in the south. cal monuments in the SLP is the Yotvin- Near the Castle Hill, in the village of gian fortifi ed settlement located among SZURPIŁY, there is a Yotvingian Memo- the Szurpilskie Lakes. On the three nearby rial Chamber, where you can see a di- hills: the Castle Hill (Góra Zamkowa), the orama of the Castle Hill and the nearby Church Hill (Góra Kościelna) and the Cem- lakes, showing a Ruthenian attack on the etery Hill (Góra Cmentarna), you can fi nd Yotvingian fortifi ed settlement. Other items the remains of fortifi cations built in the 8th include copies of artefacts uncovered by to 13th century by the Baltic tribe of Yotvin- archaeologists around the Castle Hill, in- gians. From the fl at top of the highest one, cluding Yotvingian jewellery, weapons and the Castle Hill (228.10 m), you can enjoy everyday items from the 12th to 13th centu- a magnifi cent vista of the lakes at the foot ry, found in the “Mosiężysko” excavation tourist trail to the Castle Hill (the trail Chamber. The trail complements the Cas- of the hill: Lake Szurpiły, Lake Kluczysko site in Szurpiły. starts on the parking lot in Szurpiły, tle Hill (Na Górę Zamkową) discovery and Lake Jeglówek. It was one of the hubs From Szurpiły, you can take the 3.2- 350 m from the Yotvingian Memorial path (6 km) and the Castle Hill (Na Górę of the Yotvingians, who in the early Middle km Tracking Sziurpa (Tropem Sziurpy) Chamber). Along the trail, there are eight Zamkową) bike trail (Malesowizna – Ages lived in Sudovia, which included the information boards, each describing a dif- Wodziłki; 15.10 km), contemporary Suwałki Region and the ar- ferent aspect of Yotvingian history. The Yotvingian Memorial Chamber in Szurpiły, Yotvingian Memorial Chamber, Szurpiły 32, 16-404 eas spreading all the way from the Great photo: Archives of the Suwałki Landscape fi rst board can be found on the parking lot Jeleniewo; phone no.: +48 504775660; www.spk.org.pl. Park Masurian Lakes in the west to the Neman at the entrance to the Yotvingian Memorial 104 105 Other attractions of the Suwałki Region 05

RUINED MANSION IN STARA HAŃCZA was the property of Duke Tomasz Bogumił In the hamlet of Stara Hańcza in the SLP, Światopełk-Mirski, a Polish patriot, senator you can see a ruined mansion from the turn of the post-Congress of Vienna Kingdom of the 18th and 19th century. The mansion of Poland, November insurgent and entre- preneur who fell from grace in later life due to accusations of treason and fraud. In the 19th century, the mansion changed hands frequently, but managed to survive in good condition until the end of World War II. It was destroyed after 1945.

SUWAŁKI LANDSCAPE PARK HEADQUARTERS In the SLP headquarters in the hamlet of Turtul near the village of Malesowizna, you

can get tourist information, buy maps and Other attractions guides, and visit the Regional Chamber with an exhibition on the rural areas of the of the Suwałki Suwałki Region. The exhibition displays Region historical everyday objects, such as loom, spinning wheel, wooden trays for making pastry (kopańka), churn or cheese press, Yotvingian Cemetery as well as other household items. There is Nature Reserve also an interesting discovery path named Around 5 km to the north-east of Suwałki Turtul’s Tales (Opowieści Turtula). city centre, there is a forest nature reserve Suwałki Landscape Park, Malesowizna 24, 16-404 named the Yotvingian Cemetery (Cmen- Jeleniewo; phone no.: +48 875691801; https:// tarzysko Jaćwingów). It is located in the www.spk.org.pl. Szwajcaria district (which used to be a sep- arate village) within the administrative bor- ders of Suwałki. The nature reserve was

Suwałki Landscape Park, photo: Archives established in 1959 to protect the local fresh of the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki pine forest and the old Yotvingian cemetery The Szeszupa river basin, photo: Archives discovered in the area. The cemetery was of the Suwałki Landscape Park examined in the years 1955 to 1956 by the Yotvingian Cemetery Nature Reserve, 106 photo: District Museum in Suwałki 107 Other attractions of the Suwałki Region 05

a snow park and ski rental. In the summer, Szelment offers a 1,000-m wakeboard lift and bicycle rental. You can also try your hand on the rope course (three routes with different diffi culty levels), an outstanding paintball fi eld, and an 18-hole mini golf course. There is also a restaurant, and the Sports and Recreation Centre offers accommodation. In the interwar period, the Ash Hill was used as the launching point for gliders. In the recent years, gliding has returned to Szelment.

WOSiR Szelment Sp. z o.o., Szelment 2, 16-404 Jeleniewo; phone no.: +48 875683007; https:// wosir-szelment.pl. “Dąbrówka” Ski Resort Sudovian Expedition. In the forest, you can Located just 3 km from the city centre of Su- see the kurgans – round stone mounds with wałki, “Dąbrówka” is a great spot for all win- 6 to 21 m in diameter. There are also cre- tersports enthusiasts. In the winter, there mation tombs and inhumation tombs. In the is a 300 m groomed ski slope with snow- inhumation tombs, the archaeologists dis- making guns and lights, and a t-bar lift with covered numerous trinkets, jewellery, tools, the capacity of 900 persons/hour. The ski pots and weapons, depending on the de- resort has skiing and snowboarding equip- ceased’s social status. ment rental, a bar, a suna and free parking. There is also a ski & snowboard school. Szelment Sports The resort is open all year round. In the and Recreation Centre summer, visitors can rent a kayak, a water Wiżajny where the church and the bell tower are In the northern part of the Suwałki Region, bike or a rowing boat. You can also use a North of Suwałki, near the state border, located was probably the site of a Yotvin- at the beautiful Lake Szelment Wielki, you sauna or organise a bonfi re or a family or there is a village of Wiżajny with the church gian fortifi ed settlement. can fi nd the 252-m Ash Hill (Góra Jesiono- business event. Accommodation is availa- of St Teresa of Ávila from 1825 and the Wiżajny is considered to be Poland’s wa), where the Szelment Sports and Rec- ble all year. wooden bell tower from 1862. The hill Pole of Cold, since it has the lowest aver- reation Centre is located – one of the most “Dąbrówka” Ski Resort, ul. Dąbrówka 10, 16-400 age monthly temperatures in January (be- popular year-round centres in the region. Suwałki, phone no.: +48 87 5630978; www.da- Szelment Sports & Recreation Centre in low -4°C) and the lowest annual average In the winter, there are seven drag lifts and winter, photo: Archives of Szelment Sports temperatures (below 6°C, with the aver- browka.suwalki.pl & Recreation Centre a magic carpet, cross-country skiing trails, age for Poland above 7°C). The snow cover Szelment Sports & Recreation centre - water- 108 ski lift and rope course, photo: Archives of 109 Szelment Sports & Recreation Centre Other attractions of the Suwałki Region 05

Wigry National Park and the Augustów Forest. Dowspuda – nature and history” (Park The stops – Binduga, Bartny Dół, Krusznik and w Dowspudzie – natura i historia). Powały – are located in places with the most Kordegarda Tourist Service Point in Dowspu- spectacular views. At the starting station of the da, Dowspuda 9a, 16-420 Raczki; phone no.: historical railway, there is a museum display- +48 875671219, +48 887318000; www.kordegarda. ing items related to narrow-gauge railways. dowspuda.pl. You can listen to the history of the “Forest Nar- row-Gauge Railway” here. Augustów Canal Wigry Narrow-Gauge Railway, Płociczno-Tartak The Augustów Canal is an outstanding th 40, 16-402 Suwałki; phone no: +48 875639263, achievement of 19 -century engineering, +48 697075906, +48 603165390; http://augustow- connecting the Vistula and the Neman riv- ska.pl. ers through the postglacial valleys of the Augustów Lake District and the river val- here lasts very long (in 1928, winter in the Sudawskie Hills and the Rowelska Valley. Ruined palace in Dowspuda leys of the Biebrza, the Netta, the Czar- area lasted until… June), making Wiżajny There is a wind farm on the hill. In Dowspuda, located in the Rospuda river na Hańcza and the Neman. Natural water a good place for winter sports. ”Macierzanka” Association, Suwalska 17A street, valley, you can see the ruins of Count Ludwik reservoirs and water courses, connected The village is also known for its excel- 16-407 Wiżajny; phone no.: +48 516107004; http:// Michał Pac’s palace, built in the years 1820 with man-made canals and hydraulic struc- lent cheeses. Wiżajny has a very long serywizajny.org.pl. to 1827 and surrounded by a park. The pal- tures, including 18 locks, form a 103.60 km cheese-making tradition, upheld by “Ma- ace is an important element of the landscape water way. Built over 170 years ago, the cierzanka” Association. Some households Tripoint in Bolcie and history of the Suwałki Region. It was the Augustów Canal was of tremendous im- still have cheese molds originating from the The village of Bolcie is located at the con- only true aristocratic residence in the region. portance for the local economy and the 19th century. Before World War II, a large junction of the state borders of Poland, Lith- In 1830, the palace was confi scated by the environment. Under the Regulation of the cheese dairy in the Sudawskie estate, uania and the Russian Kaliningrad Oblast. Russian Imperial authorities as punishment President of Poland of 2007, it has been owned by the Rekosz family, supplied its It is one of the six such conjunctions in Po- for Count Pac’s participation in the Novem- granted the status of a historic monument. products to Gdańsk and Poznań. In 2005, land (there are two tripoints in the Suwałki ber Uprising, and a systematic devastation In a reconstructed building known as the Wiżajny cheese was entered into the Region, with the other located on the junction began. The only remains of this once grand Prądziński’s mansion, you will fi nd the Au- List of Traditional Products as aged ren- of the Polish, Belarusian and Lithuanian bor- building are the arched façade portico, a cor- gustów Canal Museum. Near the building, net cheese. ders. The tripoint in Bolcie is easily acces- ner steeple known as the Stork Tower, and you can see the water authorities building, From Wiżajny, you can head to Su- sible, located around 100 m from the road. two storeys of cellars under the former west the lock and the harbour.

dawskie Hills – a beautiful moraine up- wing of the palace. The only building that Augustów Canal Museum, 29 Listopada 5a street, land at the Lithuanian border, and to the Wigry Narrow-Gauge survived intact was the guardhouse, which 16-300 Augustów; tel.: +48 876432360. hump-shaped Rowelska Hill (299 m) Railway now serves as a tourist service point and which is the highest point in the Suwałki The Wigry Narrow-Gauge Railway in Pło- also offers accommodation. In the guard- Dominican monastery in Sejny Region. From the top of the hill, you can ciczno is one of the greatest tourist attractions house, you can also see an exhibition on One of the most valuable pieces of histor- see Wiżajny, Lake Wistuć valley, as well as of the region. The railway runs through the General Ludwik Michał Pac. ic architecture in the Suwałki Region is the the nearby meadows and lakes. On a clear In the park, you will fi nd a 1.6-km, former Dominican monastery in Sejny. The day, you can see the Romnicka Forest, the ″Dąbrówka″ Ski Resort, photo: Archives of well-marked path named “The park in church, built in early 17th century in Late the Municipal Offi ce in Suwałki 110 111 Other attractions of the Suwałki Region 05

Renaissance style, underwent reconstruc- Puńsk tion in the second half of the 18th century Puńsk, located around 30 km from Suwałki, which gave it Late Baroque style. The adja- is often called the capital of Lithuanians liv- cent monumental monastery with cylindrical ing in Poland. Entering the town, you may corner towers, resembles a castle. Original- think that you’ve actually crossed the bor- ly a Renaissance building, the monastery der to Lithuania, because you can hear Lith- has Baroque elements in the form of the uanian being spoken all around, and the corner tower tents. road and streets signs are also written in

Former Dominican monastery in Sejny, Świętej Agaty this language. 6 square, 16-500 Sejny; phone no.: +48 875621755. Places of interest in Puńsk include the historic church, the Regional Musem with Eysmont mansion an exhibition of folk handcraft and attire, in Krasnogruda and the open-air museum. The Eysmont mansion in Krasnogruda was ”Old Vicarage” (Stara Plebania) Regional Museum, an important place in the life of the poet and Mickiewicza 57 street, 16-515 Puńsk; phone no.: Nobel Prize in Literature winner, Czesław +48 875161324, +48 5161505, +48 5161406. Miłosz. From the entire estate, a wooden Ethnographic Museum, Szkolna 67 street, building known as the mansion has survived, 16-515 Puńsk; to arrange a visit, please call surrounded by a landscape park. As a high the Lithuanian Culture Centre (phone no.: school and later university student, Czesław +48 875161032). Miłosz spent his summer holidays in Kras- nogruda. The village is also mentioned in his Yotvingian-Old Prussian memoirs and works, for instance in the novel settlement in Oszkinie The Issa Valley. The will of the Miłosz fami- If you fi nd yourself in Puńsk, head to the ly, the last heirs of Krasnogruda, has been to Yotvingian-Old Prussian settlement in Osz- create the Small Homelands of Central and kinie. It is an old ritual site of the peoples Eastern Europe Centre under the patronage who once lived here, the Yotvingians and of the “Borderland of Arts, Cultures and Na- the Old Prussians. The stone and wood tions” Centre and the Borderland Foundation. complex modelled after an old Yotvingian

International Centre for Dialogue in Krasnogru- fortifi ed settlement will take you back in time da, Krasnogruda 14, 16-500 Sejny; phone no.: and let you experience the life as it was over +48 875650369; www.pogranicze.sejny.pl. a thousand years ago.

Białobrzegi lock, photo: J. Koniecko Przewięź lock, photo: 3dpanorama.pl

112 113 Public transport 06

For more information, visit the Munici- Public transport pal Transport Customer Service Centre in Suwałki (in the market administration The Suwałki public transport network con- building at Sejneńska 6 street). nects the districts of the city and the subur- ban areas, providing an excellent solution Parking lots to visitors without cars. From the bus stop Practical in Maria Konopnicka square, you can reach The city centre is a pay parking zone some of the major attractions in the region: which covers the following streets: the headquarters of the Wigry National ◗ Tadeusza Kościuszki street – from the information Park in Krzywe (bus line no. 2) and the intersection with Wigierska street to the narrow-gauge railway station in Płociczno intersection with Generała Józefa Dwer- (bus line no. 4). nickiego street; You can fi nd the bus timetable on the ◗ Adama Mickiewicza street – from the in- bus stops and at www.pgk.suwalki.pl. Alter- tersection with Tadeusza Kościuszki stre- nately, you can use the myBus online app, et to the intersection with ks. Kazimierza which will allow you to locate the nearest Hamerszmita street; bus stop and also provides the timetable. ◗ Marszałka Józefa Piłsudskiego square. Tickets for public transport are available The pay parking zone is in effect from in vending kiosks, shops located around the Monday to Friday between 8.00 AM and bus stops, and in the ticket machine (at the 4.00 PM, with the exception of statutory hol- bus stop in Maria Konopnicka square). You idays. Parking tickets can be purchased can purchase the ticket using one of the from parking meters located around the pay following mobile apps: GoPay (https://go- parking zone, and via the moBiLET app. pay24.pl), mPay (www.mpay.pl), SkyCash For more information, please contact the (www.skycash.com) and moBiLET (www. Pay Parking Zone Offi ce in Suwałki (Ta- mobilet.pl). You can also purchase the ticket deusza Kościuszki street 78b/15, phone from the driver when the bus is stopped (the no.: +48 505464457; Mon–Fri 8.00 AM – drivers sell “packages” of four reduced-fare 4.00 PM). single-route tickets). Luggage larger than 20 x 40 x 60 cm and Accommodation 06 dogs require a reduced-fare ticket. Trans- porting bicycles on city buses is not possi- Apartamenty Europejska, Wojska Pol- ble. If you want to travel outside the Suwałki skiego 102 st., phone no.: +48 875642626, borders, you will need to purchase a zone +48 515213993 A or zone B ticket – the price list is availa- Dom Studenta (Dormitory), Szkolna 2 st., ble at www.pgk.suwalki.pl. phone no.: +48 875663129, +48 875172500 114 115 Food 06

Fresco Hostel & Food, Ks. J. Zawadzkiego Galeria ze Smakiem, T. Kościuszki 82 st., PIZZA RESTAURANTS +48 795529181, www.grycan.pl/lodziarnie/ 7 st., phone no.: 501370899, www.fresco- phone no.: +48 509094183 Al Capone Pizza Suwałki, T. Kościusz- suwalki hostel.pl Karczma Polska, T. Kościuszki 101a st., ki 76 st. (entrance from Chłodna st.), pho- Sugar, T. Kościuszki 76 st., phone no.: Wigry Hostel, Zarzecze 26 st., phone no.: phone no.: +48 875664860, www.karcz- ne no.: +48 875640209, +48 539447744, +48 875682707, www.sugar.com.pl +48 875667220, www.hostelwigry.pl masuwalki.pl www.alcaponepizza.pl Akvilon *** Hotel, T. Kościuszki 4 st., phone Kuchnia Tatarska u Alika, T. Kościuszki Amaro Pizza & Bistro, Papieża Jana CREPES AND PIEROGIES no.: +48 875635940, www.akvilon.pl 98 st., phone no.: +48 885385723, Pawła II 7 st. (water park building), phone Naleśnikarnia Lemon, T. Noniewicza Velvet *** Hotel, T. Kościuszki 128 st., pho- www.kuchniaualika.pl no.: +48 875655776 37/1 st., phone no.: +48 515388172, ne no.: +87 5635252, www.hotelvelvet.pl Laguna, Zastawie 6 st., phone no.: Chilli Pizza, M. Reja 2 st. (Circle K fuel sta- www.lemon.suwalki.pl Loft 1898 *** Hotel, gen. K. Pułaskiego 24k +48 509155154, https://laguna-restaura- tion), phone no.: +48 875671515, www.chil- Naleśnikarnia Pod Chmurką, T. Kościuszki st., phone no.: +48 877395900, www.ho- cja-wesela-hotel.business.site lipizza.pl 86 st., phone no.: +48 690464285, www.na- telloft.pl Ludowa, Sportowa 8 st., phone no.: Da Grasso, gen. K. Pułaskiego 30 st., pho- lesnikarniapodchmurka.eatbu.com Logos ** Hotel, T. Kościuszki 120, phone +48 503079087, www.restauracjaludowa. ne no.: +48 875678223, +48 877331785, Pierogarnia Rita, T. Noniewicza 85b st., pho- no.: +48 875666900, www.logos-hotel.pl com.pl +48 504907918, +48 664041848, www.da- ne no.: +48 664561136, http://ritapierogarnia.pl Szyszko *** Hotel, Innowacyjna 3 st., phone Nova Restaurant, T. Kościuszki 128 st., grasso.pl no.: +48 875654646, +48 504467467, phone no.: +48 875635225 Fantazja, L. Waryńskiego 21 st., phone BISTROS www.hotel-szyszko.pl Piwiarnia Warki Suwałki, Chłodna 2 st., no.: +48 875653749, www.fantazja.su- Bar mleczny Pod Śliwą, ks. K. Hamerszmi- Villa Eden *** Hotel, Noniewicza 37 st., phone phone no.: +48 666468842 walki.pl ta 8 st., phone no.: +48 519847556, www. no.: +48 877377796, www.hotelvillaeden.pl Rozmarino, T. Kościuszki 75 st., phone Gruby Benek, T. Kościuszki 78 st., phone podsliwa.suwalki.pl PKS Nova – Guest Rooms, Woj- no.: +48 875632400, www.rozmarino.pl no.: +48 875662896, www.grubybenek.pl Bar Ratuszowy in the City Coun- ska Polskiego 100 st., phone no.: Tatarak, gen. K. Pułaskiego 24k st., pho- Pinokio, A. Wierusza-Kowalskie- cil, A. Mickiewicza 1 st., phone no.: +48 875665241, +48 503675099, https:// ne no.: +48 877395900, www.hotelloft.pl/ go 17 st., phone no.: +48 877319842, +48 875628040 www.pksnova.pl/pl/uslugi-dodatkowe/hotel/ restauracja_suwalki +48 515596982, www.kawiarniapinokio.pl Bar Suwalski, A. Mickiewicza 5 st., pho- suwalki-pokoje-noclegowe Planeta Pizzy, P. Suzina 12 st., phone ne no.: +48 514632830 Private Inn, Polna 9 st., phone no.: ASIAN CUISINE no.: +48 888810610, www.planetapizzy.pl Fabryka Smaku, R. Minkiewicza 1 st., +48 875665362, +48 875632335, www. Azumi Sushi By Izumi, Chłodna 3a st., phone no.: +48 500808086, www.fabryka- private.fi rmy.suwalki.pl phone no.: +48 511600277, www.azumi- CAFES AND CAKE SHOPS -smaku.com.pl sushi.pl Cukiernia Jana, Sejneńska 7 st., T. Ko- Na Chłodnej, Chłodna 16 st., phone no.: Food Kamai Sushi & Thai, M. Konopnickiej 6 st., ściuszki 52 st., phone no.: +48 875650056, +48 875650054 phone no.: +48 534364000, www.kama- www.cukierniajana.com.pl Na Rogu, Krótka 10 st., phone no.: RESTAURANTS isushi.pl Delissa, Chłodna 18 st., phone no.: +48 875640118 Browar Północny, T. Noniewicza 42/1 st., Sajgon, Utrata 4a st., phone no.: +48 608707791, www.delissa.pl Obiadkowo, Krótka 6a st., Sejneń- phone no.: +48 502699399, www.browarpo- +48 518373473, EMMI Suwalska Manufaktura Lodów ska 7b st., phone no.: +48 500333737, lnocny.pl Sayuri Sushi, T. Noniewicza 35 st., phone i Czekolady, T. Kościuszki 82 st., phone +48 572614053 Fantazja Nad Zalewem, Zastawie 42 st., no.: +48 798842599, www.sayurisushi.pl no.: +48 601492818 phone no.: +48 512601588, www.fantazja. Grycan, Suwałki Plaza Shopping Mall, suwalki.pl/fantazja-nad-zalewem.html gen. J. Dwernickiego 15 st., phone no.: 116 117 Useful addresses and phone numbers 06

CLUBS AND PUBS Specialist Psychiatric Hospital, Szpi- Pharmacy, A. Patli 6 st. Black Pub Komin, E. Plater 1 st., phone Useful addresses talna 62 st., phone no.: +48 875626400, Wigierska pharmacy, Wojska Polskiego no.: +48 508995364 and phone 875626401, www.spspzoz.pl 23abc/u4a st. Klub Brama, L. Waryńskiego 7 st., phone Rehabilitation Centre, L. Waryńskie- Z Różą pharmacy, Klonowa 40 st. no.: +48 875631039, www.pubbrama.pl numbers go 22 st., phone no.: +48 875662233, Perkowscy Sp. j. pharmacy, E. Plater Metro Shot Bar, Konopnickiej 4 st., pho- www.spzozor.pl 20b st. ne no.: +48 698860364 PKS Nova Bus Station in Suwałki, Utra- Retro Pub, Chłodna 2 st., phone no.: ta 1b st., phone no.: +48 875662763, Pharmacies Post Offi ces +48 539447744 +48 703302505, www.pksnova.pl Pharmacy in the Doctor Ludwik Rydygier gen. J. Dwernickiego 15/206 st., phone Wesoła Wiśnia, Krótka 4/2 st., phone Railway station in Suwałki, Kolejowa st. Provincial Hospital in Suwałki, Szpitalna no.: +48 507164551 no.: +48 728493551 Suwałki City Council, A. Mickiewicza 60 street. Klonowa 41A st., phone no.: 1 st., phone no.: +48 875628000, www. Pharmacy, E. Plater 45 st. +48 875673435 FAST FOOD AND KEBAB um.suwalki.pl CEF@RM 36,6, E. Młynarskiego 9 st. L. Waryńskiego 24 st., phone no.: Gigant Kebab, Suwałki Plaza Shopping Suwałki City Police Headquarters , CEF@RM 36,6, M. Konopnickiej 2 st. +48 875653581 Mall, gen. J. Dwernickiego 15 st., phone Pułaskiego 26 st., phone no.: +48 CEF@RM 36,6, T. Noniewicza 48 st. Północna 27a st., phone no.: no.: +48 514206178, www.gigants.pl 875641503, www.suwalki.policja.gov.pl Dbam o Zdrowie (homeopathic), W. Wi- +48 875673400 Kebab Super King, L. Waryńskiego 12 Suwałki City Guard, T. Noniewicza 71a tosa 13 st. gen. K. Pułaskiego 52 st., phone no.: st., phone no.: +48 875687750 st., phone no.: +48 875635620 Dbam o Zdrowie im. św. Kingi, Nowo- +48 875650670 KFC, Suwałki Plaza Shopping Mall, Regional Ambulance Station, A. Mickie- miejska 4 st. Sejneńska 13 st., phone no.: gen. J. Dwernickiego 15 st., phone no.: wicza 11 st., phone no.: +48 875662268 Dbam o Zdrowie, A. Wierusza-Kowal- +48 875651772 +48 713861924, www.kfc.pl/restauracje/ skiego 2 st. T. Kościuszki 25 st., phone no.: EMERGENCY PHONE NUMBERS suwalki/kfc-suwalki-plaza Dbam o Zdrowie, T. Noniewicza 85d st. +48 875656613 King Kebab, L. Waryńskiego 14 st., pho- Emergency phone number – 112 DR.MAX, T. Kościuszki 103 st. T. Noniewicza 10 st., phone no.: ne no.: +48 515036180 Police – 997 Gemini, 1 Maja 6 st. +48 875651773 McDonald’s, gen. J. Dwernickiego 10 st., Fire Brigade – 998 Gemini, Noniewicza 93a st. phone no.: +48 694495991, www.mcdo- Emergency ambulance service – 999 Św. Kosmy i Damiana, W. Gałaja 4 st. Taxi service nalds.pl City Guard – 986 Nowa Farmacja – pharmacy in Krótka EuroTaxi, phone no.: 19662, +48 800219662 Sano Sicilian Street Food, T. Noniewi- street, Arkadia II, Krótka 4 st. iTaxi Taxi, phone no.: +48 660429134 cza 26 st., phone no.: +48 882272418 Hospitals Nowa Farmacja – pharmacy in Noniewi- Radio Taxi Suwałki Express, phone no.: Szama Kebab, T. Noniewicza 26 st., pho- Doctor Ludwik Rydygier Provincial Ho- cza street, Arkadia, T. Noniewicza 42 st. +48 87 5679000, 19626, 19623 ne no.: +48 791022650 spital in Suwałki, Szpitalna 60 st., phone Nowa Farmacja – pharmacy in Waryń- Radio-Taxi, phone no.: 19622, Wół i Buła, T. Noniewicza 33 st., phone no.: +48 875629421, www.szpital.suwal- skiego street, 1 Maja 21 st. +48 800202020 no.: +48 733947331, www.wolibula.pl ki.pl General pharmacy, Kościuszki 78 st. Taxi Club Suwałki – JartaxTrans, phone Zapieksy, T. Noniewicza 28 st., phone Medica-Vision Suwałki, Nowomiej- General pharmacy, Szpitalna 71/5 st. no.: +48 570604570 no.: +48 512850056 ska 15 st., phone no.: +48 875647444, Pod Złotym Lwem pharmacy, L. Waryń- Taxi Euro Hańcza Suwałki, phone no.: T. Noniewicza 93 st., phone no.: skiego 19 st. +48 800219664 +48 875632060, www.medicavision.pl Pharmacy, A. Lityńskiego 10 st. 118 119 Events calendar 06

Taxi Okey Suwałki, phone no.: Souvenirs March run around the Arkadia pond. There is also +48 875652277 Tourist Information Centre, a 100-m high-heels run. During the festival, Taxi Suwałki, phone no.: +48 662079745 ks. K. Hamerszmita 16 st., phone no.: THE SUWAŁKI CHURCH FAIR (KAZIUK the Fashion Run Miss and the Photogenic Tele-Taxi, phone no.: 19624, +48 875662079 SUWALSKI) Miss are crowned. +48 800400400 Kaziuk Suwalski is a church fair originating Organiser: Sports and Recreation Centre Events calendar from the common Polish and Lithuanian tra- (www.osir.suwalki.pl) Currency exchange dition, held in the vicinity of the church of Saint Location: Arkadia pond Boss, T. Noniewicza 44a st. January Casimir Jagiellon in Suwałki. On the stalls Exchange, T. Kościuszki 60 st. with the handcraft and folk art from the Su- STATE HIGHER SCHOOL OF VOCATIONAL Non Stop, K. Pułaskiego 40 st. SUNNY SUWAŁKI STATION (STACJA wałki Region and the neighbouring Lithuania, EDUCATION STUDENT FESTIVAL Non Stop, T. Kościuszki 71 st. POGODNE SUWAŁKI) you can buy traditional Easter eggs, Easter As per the tradition, for the duration of the stu- Panama, E. Plater 9a/3 st. This winter festival aimed at showing Su- palms from the Vilnius region, traditional folk dent festival (juwenalia), the city is taken over Zenit, Sejneńska 6 st. wałki as a great winter sports and events toys, pottery and much more. The fair also in- by the students. The fi rst day of juwenalia is Currency exchange, A. Wierusza-Kowal- destination, has become a fi xture in the city cludes old folk crafts shows and performanc- marked by open-air concerts, while on the skiego 2 st. (Kaufl and) events calendar. See p. 75 es by folk artists and bands presenting the second day, the festivities move to the clubs. Currency exchange, gen. J. Dwernickie- Organizers: Suwałki Municipal Culture Cen- traditional musical culture of the region. Organiser: State Higher School of Vocational go 15 st. (Suwałki Plaza Shopping Mall) tre (www.soksuwalki.eu), Suwałki Sports & Organiser: Suwałki Municipal Culture Cen- Education in Suwałki (www.pwsz.suwalki.pl) Currency exchange, T. Kościuszki 78 st. Recreation Centre (www.osir.suwalki.pl), the tre, (www.soksuwalki.eu) Location: Constitution of May 3 park Currency exchange, gen. K. Pułaskie- City of Suwałki (www.um.suwalki.pl) Location: Patli street, Witosa street, go 107 st. St Casimir Jagiellon church “SZWAJCARIA” YOTVINGIAN Currency exchange, Wojska Polskie- February ARCHAEOLOGICAL FESTIVAL go 77 st. SBF WARM-UP Since 1999, the District Museum in Suwałki THE “YOTVINGIAN SPEAR” PRESIDENT The warm-up before the Suwałki Blues Fes- holds a two-day archaeological festival in the Shopping OF SUWAŁKI AWARD CEREMONY tival has become a local tradition. Every middle of the year. The festival takes place in year, blues musicians from Poland and the former village of Szwajcaria (now a dis- and souvenirs The annual President of Suwałki award for dis- abroad serve a venerable musical feast. trict of Suwałki), in the vicinity of the famous tinguished service for the city in all aspects of Organiser: Suwałki Municipal Culture Cen- kurgan graveyard dating back to Ancient Shopping malls and public life is given to individuals and entities. tre, (www.soksuwalki.eu) Rome and the pre-modern mass migrations, supermarkets Several years ago, a separate award was cre- Location: Suwałki Municipal Culture Centre studied in the 1950s and the 1960s by the Suwałki Plaza Shopping Mall, gen. ated for entrepreneurs conducting their busi- Sudovian Expedition. The festival is held on J. Dwernickiego 15 st., www.suwalkipla- nesses in Suwałki for outstanding products or May the site of the former camp of the Expedition. za.com.pl services acclaimed by the consumers. The Organiser: District Museum in Suwałki Kaufl and, A. Wierusza-Kowalskiego 2 st., ceremony is accompanied by a carnival ball. SUWAŁKI MISS RUN (www.muzeum.suwalki.pl) phone no.: +48 875627300, www.kaufl and.pl Organizers: City of Suwałki, Suwałki Mu- Suwałki Miss Run is a fi xture in the running Location: former village of Szwajcaria, cur- Multishop Suwałki, Armii Krajowej 33 nicipal Culture Centre (www.soksuwalki.eu) festivals calendar. The all-female run was rently on the northern outskirts of Suwałki; st., phone no.: +48 222439962, www.mul- Location: The Sports & Recreation Cen- initially organised on Women’s Day. Studzieniczne street at the national road tishopsuwalki.pl tre Arena The main event of the festival is a 5-km no. 8 to Budzisko. 120 121 Events calendar 06

June Organiser: Sports and Recreation Centre August Organizers: Suwałki Municipal Culture (www.osir.suwalki.pl) Centre (www.soksuwalki.eu) THE CAVALRY PICNIC IN SUWAŁKI Location: Arkadia pond MAJSTER FESTIWAL SIŁY Location: The promenade at the Czarna One of the main events of this annual pic- A strongman festival which every Augusts Hańcza river nic is the Cavalry Dexterity Competition, SUWAŁKI BLUES FESTIVAL brings the strongest men from around Po- which involves cross-country riding, sabre Held since 2008 on the second weekend of land to Suwałki to participate in a number of September and lance competition, historical re-enact- July, each edition of the Suwałki Blues Fes- events, including the farmer’s walk, log lift, ments, marches, a cavalry evening and tival brings hundreds of blues fans to the deadlift or keg toss, which, aside from the “NEIGHBOURS AT THE TABLE” show jumping. See p. 76 city. The festival has since become an im- physical strength, also require technique INTERNATIONAL CULINARY FESTIVAL Organiser: District Museum in Suwałki portant fi xture on the European blues scene and general agility. AND PICNIC (www.muzeum.suwalki.pl) and features performances of blues musi- Organiser: Sports and Recreation Centre Each year, chefs from Suwałki’s partner cities Location: Arkadia pond, the square be- cians from all around the world. See p. 76 (www.osir.suwalki.pl) arrive to face a different culinary challenge. tween Świerkowa and Nowomiejska streets Organiser: Suwałki Municipal Culture Centre Location: Track & fi eld stadium, Wojska The festival includes culinary shows, tastings (www.soksuwalki.eu) Polskiego 17 st. and competitions, as well as musical perfor- WELCOMING SUMMER Location: Tadeusza Kościuszki street, mances. The festival also marks the end of An annual event organised on the last day Constitution of May 3 park, Chłodna street, CAMALDOLESE FAIR the season for Suwałki allotment gardeners of the school year with the participation of various clubs around the city The fair offers not only the regional culinary who present their produce on their stalls. the Suwałki youth who take a survey vote to Website: www.suwalkiblues.com specialties, amazing handcraft and local Organiser: City of Suwałki select the musicians and bands performing crafts, but also performances by local art- (www.um.suwalki.pl) at the event. SUWAŁKI FOLK FAIR ists and concerts of the biggest names of Location: Constitution of May 3 park Organizers: City of Suwałki (www. A major annual folk event promoting the the Polish pop scene. See p. 76 um.suwalki.pl), Suwałki Municipal Culture folk traditions of the multicultural Suwałki Organizers: City of Suwałki (www. WORLD CAR FREE DAY Centre (www.soksuwalki.eu) Region and the Polish-Lithuanian border- um.suwalki.pl), Sports & Recreation Cen- Every year on September 22nd motorists Location: Constitution of May 3 park lands. The main goal of the fair is to protect tre (www.osir.suwalki.pl), Suwałki Municipal are encouraged to leave their cars at home and promote the folklore and handcraft of Culture Centre (www.soksuwalki.eu) for the day. The people of Suwałki actively July the communities living in the region. Dur- Location: The promenade at the Czarna participate in activities and initiatives aimed ing the fair, auditions are held for a num- Hańcza river, Constitution of May 3 park, at promoting environmentalism and reduc- RESO SUWAŁKI HALF MARATHON ber of national folk festivals, including the Tadeusza Kościuszki street, former Camal- ing the exhaust emissions from cars driving The night half-marathon in Suwałki is one Folk Bands and Singers Festival in Kazimi- dolese monastery in Wigry, Suwałki Munic- around the city. of the major running events in north-eastern erz Dolny. ipal Culture Centre Organiser: City of Suwałki Poland. Its unique and consistently upheld Organiser: Suwałki Municipal Culture Centre (www.um.suwalki.pl) formula has attracted over 4,500 runners (www.soksuwalki.eu) THE FOLK AND SHANTY MARATHON Location: parking lot in front of the Kau- from 11 countries to Suwałki since the Location: Constitution of May 3 park The Shanty Marathon is a festival of shan- fl and supermarket, Constitution of May event started in 2016. The second day of ties and folk music, each year attracting 3 park the event is the Island Run, which promotes a devoted audience and featuring the best amateur running and ends with a breakfast Polish shanty and folk music performers. on the charming island on the Arkadia pond. 122 123 Index

November CHRISTMAS FAIR AND CITY CHRISTMAS EVE Index SUWAŁKI FOR INDEPENDENT The Christmas fair is held each year in the A Former grammar school for boys 19, 40 POLAND holiday season, giving the people of Su- Abraham Stern’s family home 62 Former New Market Square 57 The people of Suwałki have their own way wałki the opportunity to buy unique Christ- Adelson’s mill 63 Former Tax Chamber 42 of celebrating the National Independence mas presents and delicacies, enjoy live Alfred Wierusz-Kowalski’s home 44 Freedom Oak 59 Day on November 11th, including the 1-km music and participate in gingerbread deco- Arkadia pond with municipal beach 56, 93 H Little Patriots’ Run for children, and the ration workshops, as well as sing Christmas Augustów Canal 111 Hollaender family house 66 5-km Patriots’ Run for youth and adults. carols together and meet Father Christmas. B House at number 91 21 City of Suwałki (www.um.su- Suwałki Municipal Culture Centre Organiser: Organiser: Banking House 21, 50 House under the Columns 46 walki.pl) (www.soksuwalki.eu) Barracks complexes 21 Houses of Prayer: Beit Jakow and Chewra Location: Suwałki Location: Marii Konopnickiej square Bridge over the Czarna Hańcza river 56 Midrash 64 Bus station 9 J December CITY NEW YEAR’S EVE CELEBRATION C Jewish cemetery 55, 62 Each year, the people of Suwałki crowd the Cemeteries 21 Jewish gymnasium 63 THE CITY CHRISTMAS TREE city’s main square to welcome the New Year Chapel of Transfi guration of Jesus 53 Jewish hospital 49, 65 LIGHTING and listen to the biggest names of the Pol- ”Chłodna 20” Modern Art Gallery 72 Jewish senior home 65 The annual Christmas tree lighting marks ish musical scene. Chłodna street 57 K the beginning of the holiday season in Su- Organiser: City of Suwałki Church (co-cathedral) of St Alexander 21, 51, 59 Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus 21, Karol Majerski’s house 52 wałki. The event is accompanied by musi- Location: Marii Konopnickiej square 40, 59 Kleszczowieckie Lakes 102 cal performances and children traditionally Climbing wall 87 receive small gifts. Constitution of May 3 park 59 L Organizers: City of Suwałki, Suwałki Mu- Czarna Hańcza river 92 Lake Hańcza 102 nicipal Culture Centre (www.soksuwalki.eu), Lake Szurpiły 102 Lake Wigry 97 the Roads and Greenery Authority in Suwałki D Dąbrówka ski resort 91, 108 Lechosław Marszałek’s house 44 Location: Marii Konopnickiej square District Museum in Suwałki 21, 50, 67 Dominican monastery in Sejny 111 M Dwarves’ Corner 77 Maria Konopnicka High School 40 Maria Konopnicka Museum 21, 69 E Maria Konopnicka Public Library 70 Eastern Orthodox cemetery 55 Maria Konopnicka’s house 43 Eastern Orthodox church of All Saints 55, 59 Military Club 70 Eurocamping 85 Miłosz family home 52 Eysmont mansion in Krasnogruda 113 MK Bowling Entertainment Centre 90 Molennaya (house of prayer) in Suwałki 55, 59 Molennaya (house of prayer) in Wodziłki 104 F Municipal stadium 86 Figurine of St Hedwig 59 Muslim cemetery 55 Former Camaldolese monastery in Wigry 99

124 125 O Sudawskie Hills 110 Old bookshop 48 Sundial 59 Old brewery 63 Suwałki Aquapark 84 Old civic club 50 Suwałki Arena 90 Old guardhouse 41 Suwałki Beach Arena 89 Old hospital 49 Suwałki Landscape Park 101 Old Post Offi ce 42 Suwałki Municipal Culture Centre 72 Old Provincial Commission and Tribunal Suwałki riverside promenade 93 building 19, 49 Swimming pool and gym 87 Old Ritualist cemetery 55 Synagogue 64 One Painting Gallery 73 Szelment Sports and Recreation Centre 108 Szurpilskie Lakes 102 P Patio Gallery 73 T Pharmacy 49 Tennis courts (clay) 90 Professor Edward F. Szczepanik’s home 46 Tennis courts (lawn) 90 Protestant cemeteries 54 Tourist Information Centre 11 Protestant church of the Holy Trinity 21, 44, 59 Town hall 19, 41 Puńsk 113 Track & fi eld stadium 88 Train station 10 R Tripoint in Bolcie 110 Regional Chamber 107 Roman Catholic cemetery 53 W Rowelska Hill 110 Wigry Hostel 87 Ruined mansion in Stara Hańcza 106 Wigry Museum in Stary Folwark 100 Ruined palace in Dowspuda 111 Wigry Narrow-Gauge Railway 110 Wigry National Park 97 S Wiżajny 109 Samuel Orgelbrand’s house 65 Smolniki 102 Y Stara Łaźnia Art Gallery 73 Yew Hill 102 Stary Folwark Marina 91 Yotvingian Cemetery Nature Reserve 107 State Archives 51 Yotvingian fortifi ed settlement 104 Statue of Maria Konopnicka 57 Yotvingian Memorial Chamber 104 Stone of Memory 65 Yotvingian-Old Prussian settlement in Oszkinie 113 Street workout and parkour park 89

126 127 128 Suwałki GUIDEBOOK

Dear Reader, thank you for choosing our guide. We hope that this concise but very informative publication will help you discover one of the most charming and beautiful regions of Poland. Through this guide, we want to encourage you to take a closer look at Suwałki, its attractions and tourist offering.

In cooperation with the District Museum in Suwałki

ISBN 978-83-61494-54-6