issue 57 $12.95 (inc.gst) a room YACHT SHOW GUIDE TOTHEMONACO A COMPREHENSIVE GL PP:255003/07458 GLAMO ’S KIMBERLEY awe andwonderOF WI NORT DESIGN ANDFEADSHIPQUALITY COMO, ATRIUMPHOFDUBOIS I LD TZ AND view E 9 771832 521100 H WES RN U R ESS OF WHISKEY WONDERFUL WORLD OC E T AN LIF wi E t h MINDS JOINFORCES THREE GREAT YACHTING OC E AN DESI GN – ABEACONOF QUALITY NO PLACELIKE HOME AUSTRALIAN MAD E SYSTEMS AT SEA HIGH-TECH SECURITY STAYING SAFE Reviews mondango 3 majesty 135 blush como 128 destination

t’s no coincidence that Tourism Christian Flet Christian Australia chose ’s Ivast Kimberley region to showcase the grandeur and spectacle of our magnificent landscapes in the 2008 blockbuster Australia. Unlike the Central c her Australian pair, Uluru and Kata Tjuta, where tourism has been active for over half a century, visitors to the Kimberley have only been arriving in appreciable numbers for barely half that period. Perhaps as a result of near-impossible isolation, harsh climates and the almost complete lack of infrastructure, Australia’s North West remained off the tourism radar until adventure cruisers and remote fishing charter operators changed that. The gobsmacking panoramas of Mitchell Falls, Raft Point and mystical Montgomery Reef could not have been better suited to the big-budget cinematography of Baz Luhrmann’s movie. Love it or not, the golden-hued ancient landscapes of the Kimberley were presented spectacularly on screen. More recently, however, it’s been the furore over oil and gas exploration highlighting the region, with local tourism businesses fearful that unfettered development will tarnish the unspoilt quality of the iconic Kimberley. One of the most experienced adventure cruise operators in the region is North Star Cruises (NSC), launched by local fisherman and pearler, Craig Howson, back in 1987 with a few ad hoc fishing and diving charters for mates. Nowadays Howson operates the vessel many refer to as the benchmark for Kimberley adventure cruising. With just 18 luxury cabins and staterooms, the $12 million boutique vessel, True North, was built by the Fremantle yard, Austal, in 2004. Boutique cruise vessels like the 50-metre True North are perfect for exploring these uncharted waters where local knowledge means everything. Of course, exquisite cuisine, sumptuous cabins, doting crew and expert guides complete the picture. Skipper Brad Benbow even knows a secluded beach The Great where you can go for a swim while the crew keep a watch for any threatening reptilian interlopers. North Star Cruises’ premium offering is their stalwart 13-night Kimberley Ultimate cruise that plies the waters between Broome and Wyndham. “This remains our strongest product,” says Howson. “This is NAsk anyort Australian abouth The Kimberley W and esthey will gett where we gained our reputation and it is a wistful look in their eye as they are transported by the SCREEN WORTHY still number one with many.” The majestic Now, with multiple national and state dream of visiting one of the nation’s most astonishing natural Kimberley region tourism awards under its belt, NSC has wonders. Roderick Eime offers a full guide to experiencing the was chosen as expanded as far afield as Papua New the landscape for landscapes, wildlife and luxury of this pristine region, and Baz Luhrmann’s Guinea, Sydney’s Hawkesbury and South blockbuster film Australia’s Gulf St Vincent. proves there is plenty more than just the Kimberley coast. Australia in 2008. But NSC is not alone in the Kimberley. No fewer than a dozen small vessels

oceanmagazine.com.au 130 destination Mar we’ve enjoyed the relaxing atmosphere of the k

st town itself.

o “I also love Cable Beach – the colours of the thard / Christian Flet Christian / thard water and coastline are just glorious. We also took a trip to the Mowanjum Art Centre where I bought some beautiful Aboriginal paintings, and I am most excited about our cruise through the Kimberley Coast, onboard True North.” Others include Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes, Miranda Kerr and Orlando Bloom, Missy c

her Higgins, James Packer, Barry Humphries, Alex Lloyd, Kylie Minogue, and Rove McManus and Tasma Walton, who married in Broome. Following 12,000 nominations judged by a panel of 20 travel experts, cruising the Kimberley was named as number one in Australia’s 100 A Cruise is just the beginning oldest and fascinating territory imaginable. Greatest Holidays Of All Time. in Australia’s North West Kununurra and its man-made mini- With treacherous ten-metre tides and shallow It’s the world’s worst kept secret. ocean, Lake Argyle, is full of its own deltas, the gigantic liners from P&O and Royal Australia’s Kimberley and North West was outback adventure and those keen to Caribbean will never operate here. Local recently voted as the top adventure cruise follow cinematic themes can experience skippers and guides with a lifetime’s knowledge destination for Australians, and is ranking Hugh Jackman and Nicole Kidman’s WESTERN WONDERS high on the global chart for ‘must do’ Australia or venture to that place of Above: The Bungle are the key, leading excursion boats through Bungles, otherwise narrow gorges, secluded waterways or even, as expedition cruising. nightmares, Wolfe Creek Crater. known as Purnululu with True North, via Bell Jetranger helicopter to But now you’ve done your cruise, There are tours you can join, or the National Park; Left: pulled out a thrashing barramundi from more independent-minded can set off on Fishing for the giant your own private, spring-fed freshwater pool for barramundi is a staple a cool dip. the Hunter River, gazed in awe at the their own self-drive adventure checking Kimberley activity. Right: Besides pulling in the monstrous barramundi, dizzying precipices of the Mitchell Falls into any of the several homestead ‘resorts’ Model Jerry Hall enjoys and shot the wild waters of the horizontal or international-standard luxury retreats a spot of refreshment in highlights include the always-thrilling tender the Kimberley. Opposite boat ride through the horizontal falls of Talbot waterfalls, what next? like El Questro. Ocean readers might page top: True North at Bay where the tide runs so strong and the water The mesmerising ancient landscapes of consider flying their own Pilatus into King Cascades. Below: gushes out like the famous climactic scene from the Kimberley extend way past the coast, one of the blissfully secluded resorts like The sublime Cable Beach is famous for its The Dambusters. inland to the eye-boggling Bungle Bungles Berkeley River Lodge. camel rides. With marketers frothing at the mouth about (now more correctly known as the Take your pick from any of these ‘transformational and experiential’ travel, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Purnululu destinations and ideas, then extend your mesmerising and humbling Kimberley Coast is National Park) along the infamous Gibb adventure in one of Australia’s newest no longer Australia’s secret. River Road through some of the wildest, remote destinations.

operate among the primordial sandstone “Back in the late 1990s when my wife cliffs, watched over by mute wandjina Terri and I were operating a regular travel (Aboriginal ) sentinels as their agency in Broome, we started getting aluminium spawn head upstream along more and more enquiries about cruising,” the Roe, Hunter and Prince Regent Rivers recalls Bruce Connell of the Kimberley in search of giant barramundi or mangrove Cruise Centre. “There were only about jack. Smaller craft like Kimberley Quest three or four decent boats operating at the (18-person) and Great Escape (14-person) time. Now 15 years later, we have hand- are joined by larger ships such as picked the best dozen operators – ranging Oceanic Discoverer (72-person), National from 10 to 120 berths – which we sell all Geographic Orion (106-person) and year round, including internationally.” Silversea’s Silver Discoverer (120-person), Supermodel Jerry Hall is just one although the rule of thumb is always international visitor to rave about cruising smaller is better. Prices, however, are the Kimberley Coast. anything but small and rates around “I adore Broome,” Ms Hall said. “We’ve $1000 per person per day are common for had a lovely stay at McAlpine House – a this premium destination. beautifully restored pearler’s home – and

BROOMe Did you know? Kununurra Derby You could easily call Broome the de facto capital of the North West. Once a ramshackle outpost for The volume of water in Lake Situated in the East Kimberley, the outback town of Kununurra is the logical Pronounced DERR-bee, this town is actually the first European pearlers and itinerant fishermen, wealth from pearls, mining and tourism has elevated the town beyond Argyle exceeds 10 million cubic end of the near the Northern Territory border and the ideal settlement in the area and was the site of a jetty built in 1885 to its rough beginnings. Broome is also the major port for adventure and expedition cruisers heading out to metres – nine times that of location to start or finish a Gibb River Road drive. It’s also the location of the service the growing pastoral industry. The streets are lined with the Kimberley coast, so almost all passengers will spend some time in this remote community. Apart from Sydney Harbour. Warragamba, famous Homestead Museum, site of the original pioneering massive boab trees and history buffs will enjoy following the Derby pearls and the mandatory Cable Beach camel rides, there are some excellent Aboriginal art galleries and by comparison, holds less than Durack family property, most of which is now submerged by the equally Pastoral Trail, which leads to the wharf and takes in the Wharfinger the hovercraft rides out onto Roebuck Bay are one of the last commercial hovercraft rides available in the half the water of Lake Argyle famous man-made Lake Argyle. If you haven’t fully satisfied your cruising House Museum, Pioneer Cemetery and the Old Derby Gaol. The visitor world. Getting around is easy and cheap on a hired scooter. when full. urge, day cruises are available on the lake. centre is at 30 Loch Street.

northstarcruises.com.au 136 destination 136 destination 136 destination Mar K let that sink in before you return your simple lodge, the tiny bar and games Mar K

let that sink in before you return your simple lodge, the tiny bar andgaze games to the deep orange hues of the ultra- room still bears the evidence with dozens st O Mar K

gaze to the deep orange hues of the ultra- room still bears the evidencehard with sandstone dozens cliffs along st O Chamberlain of autographs scrawled on the wall above

let that sink in before you return your simple lodge, the tiny bar and games thard / Christian Flet C hard sandstone cliffs along Chamberlain of autographs scrawled onGorge. the wall the above namesake river, replete with the flatscreen tV. st O gaze to the deep orangethard / Christian Flet C hues of the ultra- room still bears the evidence with dozens Gorge. the namesake river, replete with the flatscreen tV. hardfresh, sandstone crystal-clear cliffs water, along is Chamberlainhome to of autographs“We had some scrawled pretty onwild the nights wall abovehere,” thard / Christian Flet C fresh, crystal-clear water, is home to “We had some pretty wildGorge.a seemingly nights the here,” namesake endless supply river, repleteof mighty with theconfesses flatscreen alida tV. Woodland, who runs the a seemingly endless supply of mighty confesses alida Woodland,fresh,barramundi, who crystal-clearruns the guarded water, by ais permanent home to property“We had with some husband pretty rwildoderick. nights “We here,” put barramundi, guarded by a permanent property with husband roderick.asquad seemingly of“We freshwater endlessput crocodiles.supply of mighty confessesalmost 100 a lidatents Woodland, out the back who and runs built the squad of freshwater crocodiles. almost 100 tents out the backbarramundi,Just and over built 100 guarded years by ago, a permanent white propertythat new withablution husband block. r oderick.it looked “We like anput Just over 100 years ago, white that new ablution block. itsquad elookeduropeans of like freshwater broughtan cattlecrocodiles. to the Kimberley almostarmy camp 100 tentshere outfor aboutthe back two andmonths!” built europeans brought cattle to the Kimberley army camp here for aboutfrom twoJust months!”the over east 100 in searchyears ago, of new white pastures, a thatFollow new ablutionthe track block. a few ikilometrest looked like down an her from the east in search of new pastures, a Follow the track a few kilometreseheritageuropeans recalled down brought in cattleBazher l uhrmann’sto the Kimberley film armythe Karunjie camp here road for and about you’ll two see months!” the heritage recalled in Baz luhrmann’s film the Karunjie road and you’ll see the wide mudflats used to film some of the fromAustralia the .east Pioneering in search drover, of new the pastures, irish-born a Follow the track a few kilometres down her Australia. Pioneering drover, the irish-born wide mudflats used to filmheritagePatrick some d recalledofurack, the established in Baz luhrmann’s argyle s tationfilm thestock Karunjie mustering road scenes. and you’ll With see the the ample Patrick durack, established argyle station stock mustering scenes. WithAustraliain 1886 the ample.after Pioneering bringing drover, 7000 headthe irish-born from widePentecost mudflats river used to the to westfilm andsome the of vastthe in 1886 after bringing 7000 head from to the westPatrickQueensland and the durack, vast and established arriving with a rgyleabout s tationhalf of stockCockburn mustering ranges scenes. to the Witheast, thethis ample scene Queensland and arriving with about half of Cockburn ranges to the east,inthem 1886 this left. afterscene if ever bringing a harsh 7000 and head unforgiving from Pentecostepitomises r theiver harsh to the territory west and and the stark vast them left. if ever a harsh and unforgiving epitomises the harsh territoryQueenslandland and epitomised stark and thearriving bush with spirit about of early half of Cockburnbeauty of theranges Kimberley. to the east, this scene land epitomised the bush spirit of early beauty of the Kimberley. themeuropean left. isettlement,f ever a harsh it is and the unforgivingKimberley. epitomisesContinue the along harsh the territory rough track and stark european settlement, it is the Kimberley. Continue along the roughlandBlessed track epitomised with clean, the permanentbush spirit ofwater, early but beautyto home of Valleythe Kimberley. station, another site Blessed with clean, permanent water, but to home Valley station, anotherecurseduropean site with settlement, oppressive it isheat the and Kimberley. humidity, frequentedContinue byalong the thecast rough and crewtrack both on cursed with oppressive heat and humidity, frequented by the cast andBlessedthe crew Kimberley both with on clean, tolerates permanent man’s presence, water, but toand h omeoff duty. Valley station, another site the Kimberley tolerates man’s presence, and off duty. cursedbut offers with no oppressive comfort. heat and humidity, frequented“Baz just by loved the thecast view and acrosscrew both the on but offers no comfort. “Baz just loved the viewthe acrosst Kimberleyhe vast the 400,000-hectare tolerates man’s e presence,l Questro and[Pentecost] off duty. river toward the Cockburn the vast 400,000-hectare el Questro [Pentecost] river toward thebutWilderness Cockburn offers no Park comfort. is still a working ranges,”“Baz just says loved nicolle the view Fenech across who the Wilderness Park is still a working ranges,” says nicolle Fenechcattlethe who stationvast 400,000-hectare and provides a rangeel Questro of [Pentecost]manages the river station toward with the husband Cockburn Chris, cattle station and provides a range of manages the station with husbandaccommodation Chris, options for intrepid “so he spent a lot of time filming the vistas THE WANDjiNA ARE WATCHiNg Wilderness Park is still a working ranges,” says nicolle Fenech who accommodation options for intrepid “so he spent a lot of time filmingvisitors. theFrom vistas humble, riverside camping and sunset panoramas in the movie.” THE WANDjiNA ARE WATCHiNg the Wandjina are the spirit gods of the Kimberley who cattle station and provides a range of manages the station with husband Chris, visitors. From humble, riverside camping and sunset panoramas in accommodationplotsthe movie.” to the ultra-exclusive options for e intrepidl Questro “soh heome spent Valley a lot station of time is afilming recently the vistas the Wandjina are the spirit gods of the Kimberley who TcontrolHE WAND the weather,jiNA ARE and WATCH their imagesiNg abound throughout plots to the ultra-exclusive el Questro home Valley station is avisitors.h recentlyomestead, From visitors humble, can riverside indulge camping their andrefurbished sunset panoramas destination inproperty the movie.” offering control the weather, and their images abound throughout tthehe cavesWandjina and arecraggy the spiritoverhangs gods of theaustralia’s Kimberley rugged who homestead, visitors can indulge their refurbished destination propertyplotsoutback to offering the passion ultra-exclusive no matter e theirl Questro budget. visitorshome quality Valley accommodation,station is a recently food and the caves and craggy overhangs of australia’s rugged controlnorth West. the weather, and their images abound throughout outback passion no matter their budget. visitors quality accommodation,homestead,For foodseveral and visitors months can in indulgemid-2007, their the refurbishedeven conference destination facilities. property Owned offering by the north West. theFor caves countless and craggy thousands overhangs of years of a theustralia’s aboriginal rugged For several months in mid-2007, the even conference facilities.outback areaOwned was bypassion swarming the no withmatter cast their and budget. crew visitorsindigenous quality land accommodation, Council (ilC) on food behalf and For countless thousands of years the aboriginal npeopleorth West. of the Kimberley, with such evocative names as area was swarming with cast and crew indigenous land Council (filmingilC)For on several behalfkey scenes months for in luhrmann’s mid-2007, epic,the evenof the conference Balanggarra facilities. people Ownedof the e byast the people of the Kimberley, with such evocative names as theFor n garinyin,countless Umida, thousands Wunambul of years and the Unggarangi, aboriginal kept filming key scenes for luhrmann’s epic, of the Balanggarra peoplearea andof the cinemawas east swarming buffs can with visit cast many and ofcrew the iKimberley,ndigenous hlandome Council Valley is ( ilanC) accredited on behalf the , Umida, Wunambul and Unggarangi, kept peoplewatch overof the the Kimberley, Wandjina with figures, such just evocative as their names spirits as and cinema buffs can visit many of the Kimberley, home Valley isfilming locationsan accredited key and scenes share for a yarn luhrmann’s with the epic, locals ofta theFe trainingBalanggarra college people where of localsthe east learn watch over the Wandjina figures, just as their spirits thekept n watchgarinyin, over Umida, them. Wunambultoday, privileged and Unggarangi, visitors can keptstill locations and share a yarn with the locals taFe training college whereandwho locals cinematook learn part. buffs can visit many of the Kimberley,about the art home of hospitality Valley is anas accreditedwell as kept watch over them. today, privileged visitors can still watchsee these over images the Wandjina in all their figures, mysterious just as glory their gazingspirits who took part. about the art of hospitalitylocations asa well few as kilometresand share southa yarn of with Wyndham the locals tapastoralFe training skills. college where locals learn see these images in all their mysterious glory gazing keptimperiously watch over down them. from t theiroday, cave privileged ceiling visitors frescos. can still a few kilometres south of Wyndham pastoral skills. whoalong took the part.King river is the unassuming aboutMeanwhile, the art of the hospitality Wandjina as cast well theiras imperiously down from their cave ceiling frescos. seed theseistinct images from their in all distant their mysteriouscave relatives, glory the gazing along the King river is the unassuming Meanwhile, the Wandjinadiggers acast few their rkilometresest, a knockabout south of Wyndhamhomestead pastoralhollow eyes skills. down impassively on those distinct from their distant cave relatives, the imperiouslymysterious Gwiondown fromGwion their (or caveBradshaws), ceiling frescos. the Wandjina diggers rest, a knockabout homestead hollow eyes down impassivelyalongthat onwas the those homeKing rtoiver 90 iscrew the duringunassuming two below,Meanwhile, their task the long Wandjina pre-defined cast their in the mysterious Gwion Gwion (or Bradshaws), the Wandjina havedistinct a more from modern their distant connection cave withrelatives, the indigenous the that was home to 90 crew during two below, their task long pre-defineddmonthsiggers r ofinest, filming.the a knockabout Back to itshomestead regular hollowdreamtime, eyes downtheir destinyimpassively beyond on thoseour have a more modern connection with the indigenous mysteriousMowanjum Gwionpeople Gwion of the (orregion. Bradshaws), typically themouthless Wandjina and months of filming. Back to its regular dreamtime, their destiny beyondthatpersona was our homeof quaint to 90 fishing crew duringcamp andtwo below,reach andtheir comprehension. task long pre-defined in the Mowanjum people of the region. typically mouthless and havefull length, a more the modern Wandjina connection spirits are with believed the indigenous to possess persona of quaint fishing camp and reach and comprehension.months of filming. Back to its regular dreamtime, their destiny beyond our full length, the Wandjina spirits are believed to possess Mowanjumgreat power people over the of naturalthe region. elements typically all aroundmouthless them, and persona of quaint fishing camp and reach and comprehension. great power over the natural elements all around them, fulland length, are held the in Wandjina the highest spirits respect. are believed to possess and are held in the highest respect. greatthe power landscape over the of thenatural Kimberley elements is among all around the oldestthem, the landscape of the Kimberley is among the oldest andformations are held in in the the world, highest dating respect. back some 1.8 billion formations in the world, dating back some 1.8 billion years.the Forlandscape those used of the to Kimberley wandering is the among bleak the landscapes oldest years. For those used to wandering the bleak landscapes formationsfurther south in thealong world, the ndatingullarbor, back you’ll some notice 1.8 billionthe further south along the nullarbor, you’ll notice the years.complete For lackthose of used fossils. to wandering the bleak landscapes complete lack of fossils. further“there south are alongno fossils,” the n ullarbor,comes the you’ll matter-of-fact notice the “there are no fossils,” comes the matter-of-fact completestatement lack from of Carly, fossils. a naturalist guide at the el Questro statement from Carly, a naturalist guide at the el Questro Wilderness“there are Park, no fossils,” “these rockscomes were the formedmatter-of-fact before there Wilderness Park, “these rocks were formed before there statementwas any life from to fossilise.” Carly, a naturalist guide at the el Questro was any life to fossilise.” Wilderness Park, “these rocks were formed before there was any life to fossilise.”

TRAveL CONTACTs CRuise OpeRATORs pLANNiNG YOuR TRip NATuRAl ORDER CRuise OpeRATORs pLANNiNG YOuR TRip NATuRAl ORDER For comprehensive tour and travel planning Above: The Kimberley TRAveL CONTACTs KIMBERLEY CRUISE landscape is among the Check roadFor conditions: comprehensive 138 tour138 and travel planning Above: The Kimberley information, visit the official tourism sites: KIMBERLEY CRUISE TRAveL CONTACTs Cwww.kimberleycruises.comRuise OpelandscapeRATOR is samong the pLANNiNG YOuR TRip NAToldestuRA formationsl ORDER in Check road conditions: 138 138 www.kimberleycruises.com Roadside information,Assistance: 131visit 111the official tourism sites: oldest formations in Forwww.australiasnorthwest.com comprehensive tour and travel planning Above:the world, The dating Kimberley back KNIMBERLEYORTH STAR C CRUISERUISES landscapesome 1.8 billionis among years. the Roadside Assistance: 131 111 Check roadwww.australiasnorthwest.com conditions: 138 138 the world, dating back information,www.broomevisitorcentre.com.au visit the official tourism sites: NORTH STAR CRUISES emergency Fire/police/Ambulance www.kimberleycruises.comwww.northstarcruises.com.ausome 1.8 billion years. oldest formations in www.broomevisitorcentre.com.au www.australiasnorthwest.comwww.visitkununurra.com the world, dating back emergency Fire/police/Ambulance www.northstarcruises.com.auRoadsidefrom mobile Assistance: phone: 112 131 111 NTORTHHE GREAT STAR E CSCAPERUISES www.visitkununurra.com www.broomevisitorcentre.com.auwww.derbytourism.com.au some 1.8 billion years. from mobile phone: 112 THE GREAT ESCAPE emergency Fire/police/Ambulance www.northstarcruises.com.auwww.greatescape.net.au www.derbytourism.com.au www.visitkununurra.comwww.hallscreektourism.com.au www.greatescape.net.au from mobile phone: 112 www.hallscreektourism.com.au THE GREAT ESCAPE www.derbytourism.com.au www.greatescape.net.au www.hallscreektourism.com.au

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