Sri The Source of the Cosmos

The Journal of the Sri Rajarajeswari Peetam, Rush, NY

Blossom 19 Petal 1 March 2014 March Newsletter

Since the last to Kashi; and from there back Nemeli Bala. down to Chennai and ending in The group visited Devipuram issue... Rameshwaram. and Guruji. The concluded They had a one-day break in Chennai. and then started the India From India, Aiya spent a week Aiya was in Chicago over US Yatra from Dec. 20 to Jan. 4, in Germany to perform two Thanksgiving to perform a few visiting 35 temples in total. The weddings and a funeral. The private pujas, after which he tour began with a visit to Sri second week of January, he did returned to Rochester. In early Amma in Chennai. The group a bunch of house pujas in the December, he met with Professor then performed girivalam in Toronto area, and then finally got Michael M. Bowden from Roger Thiruvannamalai, then came back to go home to Rochester. Williams University, who came to to Chennai and covered the nine As of the end of February Aiya the temple. They spent some time Navagraha temples in the area. and temple volunteers have been discussing Guruji for Professor Christmas Day, they went preparing for Shivarathri. Bowden’s research. to Thiruchi Ranganathan & There’s a new guideline for Aiya and Amma left for India Akilandeshwari temples, after overnight stays for temple Dec. 8th. They started on a proper which they visited Madhurai, and volunteers. Volunteers are Kashi Yatra from Dec. 10-19, then Kumbakonam. requested to check with temple starting with Rameshwaram; Dec. 30th was Aiya’s 70th in admin for details. going up to Kashi, Chidambaram. After that, they and Gaya; coming back made it to the Kanchi temples and

Past Events For 10 days in early December, temple devo- tees celebrated Thiruvempavai, a festival is dedicated to Lord Nataraja and his consort, Sri Sivakami during Thiruvempavai, Dec. 9-18 the month of Margazhi, which is considered extremely by Abhi Somaskanda auspicious for the Devas. Temple devotees began at 5 a.m. every morning, circumambulating the temple while singing verses from the Thirupalliyellichi and Thiruvempavai. The former is meant to wake up God, and then wor- ship Him with Thiruvempavai songs from the Thiru- vachagam, composed by Saint Manikkavasakar. As each verse finished, devotees were allowed to perform pancha-upachara puja in small groups to Lord Nata- raja and Sri Sivakami. On the final day, Arudra Dharshanam, the divine couple were placed in front of the dvajastam- bam, and devotees performed abhishekam with , panchamrtam, vibhuthi, kumkumam, and other auspi- cious items as they sang the verses from the Thiru- vachagam. Afterward, both deities were dressed in beautiful clothing, and adorned with jewels, flowers, and bilva . Following the final aarati, devo- Nataraja receives puja from his namesake on Arudra tees enjoyed a bharatanatyam performance from the Dharshanam day. Puja began at 4:30 a.m. that morning temple’s own Purvaja Kamat.

2 Kids’ Matangi homam, Dec. 29 One of by Abhi Somaskanda the apple swans in Temple volunteers organized another successful the 4 cor- Matangi homam for the benefit of all the children partici- ners of the pating. Matangi, considered the Tantric form of , Matangi is is often worshipped for success in studies, music, and the on the arts. Groups of children sat around the homam and offered cover of ahuthis into the fire as the Raja Matangi was chanted. this issue. After every child had a chance to participate, devotees en- joyed maha prasadam, which included a beautiful Matangi yantra made of several different kinds of fruit.

Aiya’s Bheemaratha Shanthi, Dec. 30 puja, which was the kumara/kanya/dhampathi pu- by Tharuman Thavakumar jas. It was as if it was timed and gave everyone goose bumps. Aiya and Amma performed the dhaanam to Aiya’s beemaratha shanthi began at the young, middle-aged and elderly in a very lavish 6a.m. under the Eastern gopuram of the Chid- fashion. This was then followed by a kalasa sthapanam ambaram temple, Tamil Nadu, on the morning and homam with the use of Rudram. of Dec. 30, 2013. Both the India Yatra partici- During this time, Sri Amma/Sri Akka (Pujyas- pants and Aiya’s disciples who had travelled hri Mathioli Saraswathy) had also arrived and made for the event all gathered there at that time. We her way to the side, where she sat and observed the walked with Aiya while chanting the Ganapathi entire event. It was the first time a lot of us got to see Atharvaseersham into the courtyard around the Sri Amma in such a prominent Temple in India, garba graham, which houses Lord Nataraja. It and the excitement and energy of the group cannot be was here that Aiya performed goh puja to a cow described. and calf, and allowed everyone to feed a type of The trinity was in our presence, our Sri , spinach and bananas to the cow. Parama Guru and the . As this was happening Sri As that concluded, we made our way Amma went into the yajnashala and stood and ob- past the Nataraja sannidhi and to a courtyard served all the puja sequences and was actively over- on the far side, where preliminary sankalpams, looking every element of the puja. Guruji and Guruji Ganapathi pujas and such took place. As these Amma in their usual nature sat and watched, crack- components concluded, Aiya handed dakshina ing jokes and spreading love in ways that we were all to a certain number of deekshitars who would blessed to be a part of. be chanting. In groups, everyone got to go into see Nataraja The dikshitars then broke off into pairs, (right before the panchakshara padi) including Guruji resided at each of the entrances to the main and Sri Amma. As the time kept going, we were all be- courtyard area and began parayanam. During coming very hungry and tired, but the presence of those this time, Aiya and the group did darshanam of around kept the energy and the stamina of everyone the entire temple and walked around Chidam- up very high. Finally around noon, the main kalasham baram Nataraja and all the sannidhis. was taken and abhishekam was done to Nataraja and As Aiya returned and sat in the manta- that water was collected in a very large brass bucket. pam in front of Vishnu overlooking the The dikshitars sat Aiya down in the central kundam, Guruji had already made an entrance courtyard and with the direct of both Guruji and everyone reacted in joy and bliss. Guruji and Sri Amma, all the water was poured on Aiya and came and sat facing the group with Aiya sitting Amma. Aiya and Amma came in a hasty manner and on the ground below to the side of him and did namaskaram to Guruji and then Sri Amma—and Amma below and to the side of Guruji Amma. then went to get changed. Upon their return the final Guruji immediately went into and so aarthi took place and garlanding and maha prasadam did Aiya, a moment to cherish. took place at a kalyana mantapam about five minutes As Guruji opened his eyes he put his away from the main temple. hand on Aiya’s head—as soon as that happened, the dikshitars came and called Aiya for the next See pictures of this event on pages 5-6

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Thai Pongal, Jan. 14 by Abhi Somaskanda

Thai Pongal rounded out the last couple of months of festivals at the temple. This harvest festival was celebrated in routine fashion at the temple with a symbolic pongal (sweet rice). Everyone present offered a handful of rice into the pongal pot, which was adorned with mango leaves, vibhuthi, and kumkum. The pot was placed on top of a kolam for auspiciousness, and surrounded by standing deepa lamps. As the pongal pot overflowed, everyone chanted “Aro-hara!” in unison, and enjoyed the sweet pongal prasadam afterward.

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Temple Earth Nature aficionado Aparna Hasling would love your support with the First Annual SVTS Earth Day celebrations! Now that the Southside creek is cleared, we have approval to expand the riparian Day Project, zone! The goal is to plant species that support local wildlife – so this is really a wildlife naivedyam April 12-26 project! Fortunately, the Monroe County Office will support our restoration project by subsidizing native plants. Our task is to gather volunteers to dig holes, plant trees and bushes and keep them watered this summer. The plants arrive April 17th, but we need to prepare the ground in advance. Please check out Shakambaris Sanctuary Facebook page for details or email [email protected] if you want to participate.

Upcoming Events

Event Date/time Location Tamil New Year April 13 (night) Sri Rajarajeswari Peetam, indoors Chitra Poornima April 14 Sri Rajarajeswari Peetam, outdoors Maha Pratyangira homam April 20 Sri Rajarajeswari Peetam, yajnashala

In Three Months Our special thanks and gratitude to this issue’s volunteers: Aiya, Kathy Allen, Vilas Ankolekar, Sandeep Devi willing, the next issue of the Sri Chakra will be up on the temple’s website at the beginning of June (Sonia) Chadha, Colin Earl, 2014. Aparna Hasling, The Nandalala This magazine cannot keep publishing without Mission, Abhi Somaskanda, Vimalan contributions! Articles, poems, stories and photos about any spiritual topic are welcomed. Sothinathan, Michael Steinberg, The next deadline for article submission is June 10, Bhuvana Subramanian, and 2014. Please e-mail us with your contributions or Tharuman Thavakumar. feedback about this issue at sri_chakra_mag@srividya. org or talk to Kamya or Abhi at the temple. Sri Gurubhyo Namaha! ***Guruji’s story, Chidagni, will return

The Sri Rajarajeswari Peetam ~ 6980 East River Road ~ Rush, NY 14543 ~ Phone: (585) 533 - 1970 4 New beginnings & discoveries

Aiya’s Bheemaratha Shanthi (The Big 7-0) in Chidambaram December 30, 2013 Thanks to Colin Earl for taking all these photos, and Kathy Allen for sending them to the Sri Chakra.

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6 New beginnings & discoveries Sri Amma’s New Year’s Speech

At the Kanthimathi Kalyana Mantapam on the evening of Jan. 1, 2014, Pujyasri Mathioli Saraswathy (Sri Amma or Sri Akka) gave a speech on how she foresees this new year. This is the edited version of that speech. Thanks to the Nandalala Mission for its English transla- tion of the original speech given in Tamil, and to Bhuvana Subramanian for sending it to the Sri Chakra.

She began her speech by Live within your means. But this be cured painlessly. Probably that wishing all a Happy New Year and year it will not be so. Everyone will could have been the reason for the said, “When I think of what I should opt to take loans because they also title of my latest book, Vandha vali talk about and what I need not, it is will have the capacity to repay. But ponna vazhi. A new drug for cancer better that I talk about what is good utilize the funds judiciously. cure will be a major breakthrough for all of you! January 1st being this year and a boon to cancer a Wednesday, the year starts on an For Shoppers: patients. Researchers and scientists auspicious note. Year 2014 adds up A lot of new products will will progress and benefit in their to 7 which is Lord Kethu’s number. flood the market leaving one with a fields. This year we may not com- variety of goods to choose from. It mit mistakes but if we do, we have will lead to confusion. Vegetables: to face the consequence. Wednes- A variety of vegetables will day is considered auspicious to start Education: be available in the market. But the new ventures, make decisions and Students especially girls, prices will be steep. To keep the procure loans. Buddh Baghavan will be achievers. price down, place that particular will bless you with presence of vegetable which is high in price, in mind.” Discovery: a container filled with water. The January 1, 2014 also adds price will drop down. Loans: to 9. 1+1+2+1+4. Number 9 repre- There is an adage in sents Lord Sevvai/Mars. This year, Cure and use: Tamil—“Viralku etha veekam”— because of Mars all diseases will Since Vegetables have curative properties, Pavakkai/Bitter Gourd should be included on the food platter daily. Another variant of this vegetable called ‘Jimmiki Pavakkai’ is good for consumption. The root of Pavakkai/Bitter Gourd removes ill effects /dosham espe- cially for children. It is also worn as a talisman. It absorbs the mantra sounds. Pavakkai is also known by another name—Kaaravalli.

“What is the meaning of Dia-be- tes?” Sri Akka threw a question at the gathering. Not very happy with the response, She answered, “Dia can be related to digestion,

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diaphragm. Craving for food should murthy Nayanar received Thiruvadi holding a Lotus in their be in moderation OR it could test Deekshai. hands. Pray with faith, teach your (tease) or trigger Diabetes, a meta- Read about this episode to children, grandchildren the signifi- bolic disease.” understand the relationship between cance. the Lord and his devotee See the Vi- Fruit: manam of this temple and the look Daily Slokam to chant this year: The Jackfruit/Palaa pazham keenly at the sculptures. Kolaru Padhikam and is also known as the Mandira “Namo Narayana” (can chant or Pazham. It contains in it the Bhee- Avaloor Sringeeshwarar Temple, write in a book). jakshara shakthi capable of mak- Panruti ing one a tantrashali. (The mantra This temple is under Kolam: vibrations when chanted nearby it renovation now. Lord Nataraja was Kolam to be drawn for the are supposed to be absorbed by the supposed to have performed His month of Thai (Jan.15 – Feb. 15th). fruit). Lord Shiva’s Ganas placed Aanandha Nadanam (Ajaba Nada- This special kolam has 8 flags and this fruit on their heads when they nam, Cosmic Dance) here. Lord 8 bells. Seven represents Kethu. danced in a temple dedicated to Shiva narrates this incident to Nandi These bells and flags represent Lord Shiva. This temple is situ- also known as Sringi. . Look closely at the ated at Thiruvathigai Village which This dance form known as centre of the picture of the kolam— is about 2 kilometres east from the Ajaba Nadanam is still performed a shivalingam has been drawn. It town of Panruti. Veerattaaneswarar in Thy- is known as Arudra Ther (chariot) is the name of the presiding deity. ageshwar Also interestingly in the Temple in Indian epic , Vishvami- Thiruvarur tra the preceptor of and his at the time brother Lakshmana gave them the when the Mantropadesham under a Jackfruit Uthsavar tree on the banks of the Sarayu is brought River on the astras or celestial out during weaponry (bala and adhi bala). the Uthsa- vam. It is Thiruvadi Deekshai: believed Sundaramurthy Nayanar that Lord was another saint who was blessed Shiva as- to receive a touch of the Lord’s feet. sumes the While going to Chidambaram, he form of a had to pass the village of Thiru- Swan and vadigai. Sundaramurthy stayed in dances in a place outside the village. That the heart of night, an old man also stayed over, Lord Vishnu in this temple. This is kolam. but he did not allow Sundaramur- one such temple other than Chid- You can replace the centre thy Nayanar to sleep in peace. He ambaram where the Lord shows his by drawing Lord Murugan’s Vel, rested His feet on the Nayanar’s Feet. etc. then it becomes Azhagu head. Sringi is the Bull’s horn Ther kolam. With a Lotus or Sundarmurthy Nayanar which is used to perform abhishek- Svastika for it becomes moved away from the old man. But ams to Lord Shiva especially in the Sri Ther kolam. With a , every time he moved away, the old North. Karaikaal Ammaiyar lived Saraswati yantra, , etc., it man moved too, and would not give in this village for a brief period. becomes Saraswathi Ther kolam. up. The Nayanar then asked the This kolam can be drawn old man as to why he was being so Temple visits: using rice flour in the puja room. annoying. The old man responded, Visit cave temples like You can change the centre accord- “Sundara! Do you not recognize Thiruvannamalai Padhara , ing to your Ishta Devatha and seek Me?” and then disappeared. The Kalahasthi Pillaiyar, Gatte Subra- their by invoking them. Nayanar immediately realized that manya, Vaishno Devi, Kanchipuram Draw these kolams and have a year the old man was none other than Kailasanathar, Thirutani. This year filled with goodness for all. Jai Lord Siva Himself! Thus, Sundara- try to also visit temples that house Nandalala!

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9 New beginnings & discoveries A Testament of Faith by Aparna Hasling

We all know that ego veils The ancient extended from past lives and I was God-consciousness from the indi- teach that we are all a reflection of weary of the burden. Taking cour- vidual soul and that is the . In this quest for enlight- age, I let the light burn through veils key to reduce this self-centered ex- enment, some devotees practice of self-doubt which I had identified istence. However, without adequate and explore vichara as a as my own self. faith it is difficult to maintain and discipline of self-inquiry. “Neti neti” In a dramatic struggle, even deepen spiritual practice. A person is a contemplative practice which as the ego was revealed to be the with shraddha performs ritual puja may help identify inconsistencies architect, it continued to fight for and serves with a pure-heart; for between atman and ahamkara. By survival. It argued that it would be them, union with God is immanent. doing an inventory of thoughts and selfish to transfer this darkness to But what about the rest of us—how actions, it is possible to trace the my beloved Shiva, and with a whis- does one build faith? origin of creation. per it told me to hold on and con- The ego grows stronger However, the ego barely tinue my dance around the moun- with every drop of doubt, anger, gives space for the peace of cosmic tain. As I agonized through this jealousy and pride—it is a store- dark night of the house of stagnant energy. It is also soul, Aiya seemed a clever opponent, and constantly to emerge from a spews false messages of judgment mist and offered his through the mind—it even con- hand. He compas- gratulates the little self for doing sionately asked me sadhana when others have not! to release the pain, The ego thrives on preferences and and assured me aversions, and constantly compares that my burden of itself to the other. This is why even separation would devotees who have studied the At- not hurt him. What mabodha, Gita and other I perceived as a advaitic texts are challenged to find toxic, heavy load, the root of their own ego, let alone was only a drop of eradicate it. Like a chameleon, it silence, and distracts the sadhaka energy he could recycle into amrita. changes form when detected. from ever reflecting on pure Self. It It was a revelation, and as I burst Since we cannot see our produces waves of faith-crushing into tears, prana flooded my soul. own ego, we need a guru or faith- thoughts, and depending on person- Over a year has passed counsellor to shine light upon it. al vulnerabilities, the ego can make since this experience, but even now Only a skilled surgeon can suc- one person feel unworthy of God’s my faith grows as I remember and ceed at this task, since the ego is love, and guide another to believe in reflect on the power of the guru’s programmed to attack if threatened their own God-like powers! love. Since we are all struggling with too much light! The guru Although I have travelled together on this path, today I possesses powerful which the spiritual path for many years, humbly offer this story and ask can melt the chains of ego, and s/he last year I undertook a faith-journey that we be patient with each other’s disperses them like medicine. How- to assess my own false beliefs. impatience. Although the ego tries ever, the potency of the mantra is With the help of a faith-counselor, to keep us in the game by decreased by the poisonous : I identified an energy blockage that great rewards, there is really noth- jealousy, anger, greed and conceit. I had carried since childhood. An ing to gain in this world. Atman is So this lila of life continues, as even avalanche of unprocessed emotion Brahman, guru is God and the only those who yearn to melt at Devi’s had festered into a mountain of thing that really matters is love. Sri feet are bound by tenacious false darkness that seemed to eclipse the Gurubhyo Namaha! beliefs. light of God. The roots of the pain

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the system. If you drilled a hole in your mouth going up through the palette and inside the brain and looked inside, you Q & Aiya would see a thumb-sized area called the pineal stalk. The epithereal layers of the pineal stalk produce melatonin, seratonin, and the like. Only now has the West discov- We all love hanging body will then be diffused with oxy- ered these chemicals and put them into out with Aiya, drinking tea, hemoglobin through the pumping into the forms of tablets and recreational action of the heart. drugs. When nature produces them and sometimes getting some Inside the alvioli, there is through your emotional state or through guidance on how to travel CO2. With water vapour, you get japam or transcendental meditation, you down our own paths to the H2CO2 or H2CO3. This is carbonic cannot overdose on them. It’s dependent Devi. Here, he addresses the acid. These two acids are higly on your emotions, your metabolic rate at unstable--they will break down, giv- that time, and natural factors. Whatever physical effects of japam. ing you a hydrogen ion and carbon. is produced and not used by the body will The hydrogen ion’s concentration is be reabsorbed and have no side effects. called the PH value. Whatever is put artificially into Anyway, if you can main- your body while taking external narcot- Q: What do mantras do to the body? tain the same ambiance, the same ics will transform into toxins and become rhythm in your breathing by japam, poisonous to you. This is why the high Aiya: You’re breathing right now. Are the same amount and the same of meditation cannot be duplicated with you breathing to the maximum capac- plasma will entering your brain. the artificial high you would get by doing ity of your lungs? No, only a third of This is why a mantra is given to drugs. It is foolhardy to think you can your maximum capacity is in use. you and you keep chanting the same quickly get to a place that has taken true Now, if you chant a mantra out loud, the thing over and over again, until you aspirants years to get to, simply by smok- breathing is extended and you’re chal- can chant it in your sleep. The same ing something or taking a pill. lenging your lungs to hold more air and PH has entered your plasma and So repeated mantra japam with slowly expend air over a longer period of is now entering your brain. Inside the same rhythm and same format is time. your brain, the cerebro-spinal fluid extremely important. When that constant Your retention cycle and exhala- or CSF becomes infused with the influence is there, the body and the im- tion cycle become extended. In that time same PH value. pulses in the mind will begin to change. while you’re holding and expelling the When the PH is enter- And it is transmitted to the rest of the air, think of the changes that take place ing your brain at optimum levels, body through a system of cranial nerves, inside the lungs. Inside the lungs, an which is what the japam will ensure, which have branches going throughout exchange of gases is taking place. Your maximum production of melatonin, every conceivable system in the body. body is giving up its carbon dioxide and seratonin, and other hallucinogenic And all the cells in those systems will it is accepting oxygen. The rest of the components are released throughout begin to vibrate at the same rate--to the rhythm of that japam you are chanting. So what do mantras do? They re-program your entire body. They re- program the cells and the nuclei in the body to resonate with whatever mantras that you are doing. That is the effect of mantra sadhana. But you have to stay with it. You can’t do intense mantra sadhana for a month and then get over whatever you’re going through and forget about the japam for 2 or 3 years. Then when the next crisis hits, you go and sit down again? Sorry, it doesn’t work like that. It has to go slowly in stages.

11 New beginnings & discoveries Train to Kanchipuram

part 1 by Michael Steinberg

My hotel in Chennai had somewhere, but I didn’t feel like rived I felt my journey was off to a 24-hour checkout, and since my hunting up and down for one and good start. plane got in so early I had to check I wasn’t sure I would want to eat I got back to the station in out before six the next morning or there if I could find it. plenty of time. The sun was up and pay for an extra day. I barely made Across Gandhi-Irwin Road it was already in the mid-seventies, it. The alarm clock on my phone I saw a restaurant lit up and I decid- but for Tamil Nadu this qualified as didn’t work, but a terribly over-am- ed that there was where I would eat. “bone-chilling cold,” as the Hindu plified call to prayer from a nearby I passed through the usual gauntlet put it. Some people were wearing mosque woke me up a little after of auto-rickshaw drivers (“No thank sweaters and had protected their five, and I washed up in a hurry, you, I’m just crossing the street”), children with coats. Others had returned the key on schedule, and put my traffic-dodging skills to clipped on leopard-skin print ear tumbled out into good use in warmers. I was perfectly comfort- the pre-dawn making it to the able, of course, dressed in a dhoti darkness. other side, and tied in the North Indian style and a It was dropped into kurta from Fabindia. Nobody paid too early for the a silver metal me much mind. hotel breakfast seat at a brown When the train pulled up I but I figured I formica table in dashed into one car and dashed out would go to Eg- Vasanta Bha- at once; it didn’t look as if I’d be more Station, a van, a “Fam- able to find a window seat, and of short walk from ily Vegetarian course I wanted to see as much as the hotel, and Restaurant.” possible. I walked into the next one see what I could From what without looking. It was then that find there. There I gathered I was I saw that the car was basically an wasn’t much to still too early open boxcar with a metal floor. The find. Egmore for the kitchen only seats were along the sides. I is a large, red-brick building with to open, but somehow there materi- thought at first I should go to yet white trim that runs for a block alized two large vadai and filter cof- another car but the train was ready along Gandhi-Irwin Road, Victorian fee. Both were good, but the vadai to leave and I was afraid of being in its outlines but with scalloped were to die for. Hot, crisp, and left on the platform. Then I thought, oriental archways and towers that perfectly fresh, studded with onions, I like it well enough on the floor at end with white helmet-like cupolas: curry leaves, and the “Indo-Saracenic” style that the mustard seeds, British liked to use to acknowledge twice as large as that they were putting these build- any other I was ings in India and not in Liverpool or to have, they left Cardiff. It’s nowhere near as deep me in a splendid as it is long, though. mood. There is Inside the main archway no better place there was a room with ticket win- on earth to have dows to one side and people sleep- breakfast than ing on the floor, and past that were South India, and the platforms and the pedestrian by the time the bridges with their long staircases. kitchen opened I’m sure there was a food stand and my idli ar-

12 New beginnings & discoveries home. There was an open patch of urinate no matter what is on it. Oth- One of the women, whose floor close to one of the open doors ers stand outside their houses, brush- white hair is cropped short, says so I planted myself there, watched ing their teeth as the train goes by. something to me in Tamil. I gather the surroundings slip past, and real- Young men are hanging from her gestures that she thinks I ized with pleasure that I had found from the open doors, not because would be more comfortable on one the perfect way to see suburban there is no room in the car but of the benches that run along the Chennai from a train. because young men like to do things sides of the car. The old man seems There is not much to see like that. A boy who doesn’t look to to agree. I do my best to respond from the suburban line but by the be out of his teens sits in a doorway in sign language that I like the floor with his legs and the view and he appears to dangling. His accept my explanation with benevo- head nods for lent amusement. He says something a moment and else to me and then guesses the half a dozen answer. people in the “Kanchipuram?” he asks. car start yelling “Kanchipuram,” I answer, at him. He gets and he grins. up but, stand- “KanchiPURam!” he says ing, holds on to the others. to the outside Later on I take out a bag door handle of snacks, open it, eat a few, and and leans out offer it to the others. The woman into the breeze. with cropped hair takes the bag and The floor starts packing it away. I protest and gesture that I wanted to share same token there is a lot. instead of donate. She hands Scrub, of course, the bushes it back and spreads her sari and stunted trees that seem while the man unfolds a piece to surround every rail line. of newspaper. I pour out butter The backs of blocky water- murukku until they signal they stained concrete houses, have enough. The old man of- three or four stories tall, fers me a namaskaram. with balconies and laun- We pull into the important dry strung to dry. Now junction station of Chengal- and then a cluster of older pattu, past a large lake with houses, huts really, with some mountains behind it, and thatched roofs. Clusters then reverse direction to head of commercial buildings, towards Kanchipuram to the too, grade crossings with west. We are well out of the people waiting behind and city sprawl by now, proceeding in front of the barrier on along a high embankment. Be- their bicycles, motorscoot- yond and below it the ground is ers, motorcycles, autorick- ruled into perfect rectangles for shaws, and bullock carts. of the open car fills up with metal paddy. In one a man has tied up his Children in school uni- tubs of fish packed in ice that slowly sarong-like lunghi for the hard work forms waiting to get across the melts onto the floor and with bun- of planting. In the next, two bull- tracks to school. Walls along the dles of cheap brightly printed fabric ocks, yoked together, wait with their tracks covered with signs for silk tied up with yellow nylon rope. An proverbial patience. In the third stores like Pothys and the Chen- old man and two old women sit on a tractor is preparing the muddy nai Silks, political signs, portraits the floor on one end of the car. I soil. Soon we are in the holy city of of Jayalalitha, the former film star eventually head over there because Kanchipuram. and current Chief Minister of Tamil it’s the one open space by a door My aim on my first morn- Nadu, red flags, a picture of Che. where I can look out towards the ing in Kanchi is to visit the most Men stand in front of the wall to front of the train. famous of its temples, the Kamakshi

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Amman temple. This is tradition- delighted and surprised to see me. the cousin finally appeared I was ally where one starts a visit to It seemed, as they say here, highly ushered into a fenced-off space next Kanchipuram, and since Kamakshi auspicious, and a nice bit of proof to the space for Indians where I is a different form of Rajarajeshwari that I really was a Hindu, if proof could see nothing at all, and after a I’m especially eager to see her. I was actually needed. moment I was led around the back ask at the hotel for directions and I had no time to look where an official asked for a temple set off on foot. around the temple complex; the donation. I never go to a temple I don’t think I have been in priest ushered me into the sanctu- without making an offering, but the two temples in India that felt exactly ary through a side door. But I did hustle and haste left me feeling that the same, but there are temples ev- not end up in the lines for ordi- I had just been shaken down. I gave erywhere in Kanchipuram, and from nary worshipers. Instead, I found him a hundred rupees and left. I the outside I can’t tell which temple myself planted in a little enclosure never saw my priest again. is which. There seem to be dozens for Westerners cut off from other Things were not starting of streets lined with bazaars that devotees by metal rails. The priest out well. I was more than a little lead to giant gopurams, only none pointed someone out to me, his put out, but I had just started my of them are entrances to the temple I cousin, he said, who would “bring journey and kept my hopes up. I want. I kept walking up to temples me in.” I should wait. knew that from noon to four the for Murugan or Vishnu. The streets I waited, looking past temples are usually closed, but in twist and bend, I get totally lost, and several lines of devotees at the Kanchipuram there are two temples ultimately I give in and overpay an distant figure of Kamakshi. It was that date back to the seventh cen- autorickshaw driver to deliver me to good, if a little frustrating, to sit tury, and while these don’t open the main entrance to the Kamakshi in my Westerners’ ghetto trying to as living temples until four they’re Amman temple. get a clear view. Temples are good open all day as archaeological sites. I was a little nervous be- places to sit in no matter where you I decided to go Kailasanathar, a cause Kamakshi Amman has a rule are, and the distance between you temple to Shiva as lord of Mount against non- in the sanctuary and the god often seems to enhance Kailash, which my books told me was probably the best-preserved Pallava temple in existence. According to Google I could walk from the hotel to the temple in about 20 minutes. That’s what I did. Kanchi is decently walkable by Indian standards; no sidewalks and lots of garbage and encroachments, but only moderate traffic and noise. My discontent slipped away as I walked. As I was to find throughout the trip, the inimitably public aspects of Indian life and the constant buzz of activity in the streets served as a tonic. I like walking in cities anyway, and I like the kinds of discoveries I can make because I and it’s known for being strict about the feeling of power and presence. move at a slow pace and don’t have that rule. But I was not too nervous A temple band was playing, two to worry about parking. Along the because I had an introduction to one drums and two nadaswarams, but way I came across Kanchi Kudil, of the senior priests there. We had my expectations were getting in the a century-old bank manager’s been in touch by phone and I called way of my focus, along with the house which had been turned into a him once again when I got out of hope that when the cousin showed museum, all swelling teak columns, the auto. He was very friendly and up I would finally get to have the whitewashed walls, and tile roofs warm, and we had just entered the kind of darshan I would have had if around courtyards and pools. Its temple when we ran into two devo- I were an Indian devotee. sobriety and its careful attention tees from the temple in Rochester, It did not happen. When to the climate made an odd pairing

14 New beginnings & discoveries with the contemporary fantasies in exercise in restraint. was Kailasanathar, set off from the yellow, green, and fuchsia concrete In twenty minutes I passed rest of the town by a broad lawn that surrounded it. Next to their through a mostly residential neigh- and green Archaeological Survey arbitrary and almost comical angles borhood, a school, and a broad, of India fencing. There were only and lines Miami’s South Beach is an shallow pond fringed by facto- a handful of people around. It was ries. I was hard to figure out where I should already in leave my shoes and the ASI guide the suburbs. was not eager to do any guiding and The blare his English was not the best, either. of Kanchi’s I had the temple almost to myself. traffic faded, and beyond some mod- Watch for part 2 of Michael Stein- est houses, berg’s experiences in Kailasanathar across from in the next issue of the Sri Chakra. the inevi- table snack stands and a few stalls selling statues and trinkets,

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Letting Go by Sandeep (Sonia) Chadha

I sit down and breathe is that light of god that shines thru world is just as it is supposed to be. into my being and as I breathe out the shell. It is full of unconditional And I accept it and I pray gratitude I let everything go. I let go of all love, bliss and the most beautiful: to the fulfillment of life I have expe- the tensions, the expectations, the peace. rienced at this very moment. Let go desires, the attitudes and ego I have When I touch that peace I and let God. developed over the years. I let go know I have touched God that day and I think to myself let god in. and hold on to that peace through When I make this space God can each breath of my being that day. I come in. feel moved that Her creation is so My desires, wants and magnificent and I swim through thoughts are on the human level, God’s energy waves. I pray that when I let go and breathe out I lift every day I will be blessed with this myself out of my body into my freedom to know what divinity truly spirit and ask my spirit to be fully is. alive and ask my human self to be It feels like nothing but the shell it is meant to be. everything is contained in it, it is Don’t get me wrong—my the irony of the divine, it is. In the human shell is a creation of the depth of my being, God is, and so divine, it is beautiful, but it is only am I. We emanate together through- a shell that I have grown very close out the universe. I am full of the to in this life time. But my spirit divine energy and all of the outside

15 New beginnings & discoveries

Sri Gurubhyo Namaha

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