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October 2005 501 Elizabeth St.reet Room 3, Charleston, WV 25311 • 304-345-7663 • www.saveblackwater.org • [email protected] Draft Mon Forest Plan Threatens Blackwater! Writers Honored at Comment by 11/14/05 management plan preferred by the National Blackwater Conference Forest, commercial logging — currently Do you approve of five times more logging in The second annual Friends of prohibited in much of this part of the Mon — Monongahela National Forest, with clearcuts Blackwater Membership can begin next year. And the Forest Service doubling in size? Unless concerned citizens Reception and Awards Banquet proposes to cut five times as many trees and to speak out NOW, increased logging in the was held at Timberline Four Seasons Resort on double the size of clearcuts in this plan. Blackwater Canyon will be part of the Forest September 24. Awards were given to writers Service’s new “Plan” for continued next page who celebrated the Blackwater area. the Monongahela A warning from the past Charlie Baer was born in Columbus Ohio. National Forest. “The State of West is mightily proud People who love the He completed his masters degree in botany at of its glorious natural Blackwater Canyon Ohio State and PhD in plant physiology at the scenery, but the State also must speak out, and say a University of . He taught the first shows to us what happens resounding NO to this ecology courses at University when man flies in the face Forest Service proposal! and started the state chapter of the Nature of nature. Today, I have Comments are due Conservancy in 1963. Charlie worked with seen many square miles of by Nov. 14. Here are the the to evaluate potential splendid mountains facts: Three-quarters of National Natural Landmarks. Blackwater which have been denuded the Blackwater Canyon Canyon was in that report, as well as, of timber. I have seen area is in public Cranesville Swamp, Greenland Gap, Cathe- yellow streams carrying ownership, most of it dral State Forest and Big Run Bog. Now in eroded silt and soil from managed by the his 86th year, Charlie works to preserve West the steep slopes.” President Franklin D. Roosevelt Monongahela National Mountain State Forest Festival Virginia’s natural beauty and unique ecology. Forest. Under the draft October 1, 1936 Margaret Calwell is a strong supporter and source of encouragement to Friends of Blackwater Trail Update By Judy Rodd There is an imminent, deadly arrow water are going to be in a fight that will of destruction poised and aimed at the test every fiber of our being. heart of the Blackwater Canyon. We must be prepared and willing to The arrow of destruction is Allegheny defend — as never before — West Wood Product’s public land-grab: their Virginia’s scenic “Crown Jewel,” her plan to turn the beautiful, intimate “Natural Treasure,” as Senator Robert C. Blackwater Canyon Trail into a commer- Byrd put it. cial logging road. To defeat the forces of greed and In just a few weeks, we expect the privatization, and to protect the Canyon release of a Draft Environmental Impact Trail from bulldozers and mega-ma- Statement (EIS) by the Forest Service on chines, will take every bit of public AWP’s catastrophic proposal. opinion, media outcry, and scientific and Make no mistake about it; when that legal expertise that we can muster. Judy Rodd (l) presents Margaret Calwell Draft EIS is released, we who love Black- Writer’s Award with her son, Stuart Calwell, continued next page by her side. Story continued on page 8 Inside: Director’s Update ...... 2 A Tribute to Arnout Hyde Jr...... 4 Writers Honored Continued ...... 8 Welcome Lena’s Bakery ...... 11 Stuff Your Bag Sweepstakes ...... 2 Calendar of Events ...... 5 Trail Expansion Project Underway .... 9 Blackwater Roots Distributed ...... 11 Timberline’s Fred Herz ...... 3 Signs of Fall in Spruce Country ...... 5 North Fork Watershed News ...... 9 Charlie Black a.k.a. Baloney Man ..... 11 Field Volunteers Foreman & Null ...... 3 In memory of Drew Forrester ...... 5 Biking Blackwater ...... 10 Get Away to Fiddler’s Roost ...... 12 In memory ...... 4 The ...... 6,7 Welcome Canyon Rim ...... 10 Cabin For Sale ...... 12 Director’s Update Monongahela Forest Forest into a 6.2 protected area! Keep from page 1 the log trucks, skidders and roads out!! The Blackwater Canyon region Send a comment to the Forest Service includes Table Rock and the Red Run from SaveBlackwater.ORG. Valley, Olson Fire Tower, Big Run Bog, Canaan Loop Road, Canyon Blackwater Trail Rim Trail, the Blackwater Canyon from page 1 Trail, Engine Run, Plantation Trail, And to carry on that fight, as Railroad Trail, and Mountainside always, costs money — for Trail. mailings, for ads, for our staff, This beloved area needs more and for lawyers’ and scientists’ protection, not less. Tell the Forest expenses. We usually save our Service to make all of the Blackwater quarterly fundraising pitches for a Canyon Region of the Monongahela separate letter, and devote the Blackwater Newsletter to news and issues, but the frightening fact Judy Rodd after a picnic at Big Run; Photo by Joe Collins Babe is with us! of this looming arrow of destruc- From the land of the great lumber- tion demands that we lay the Dear Friends, jack Paul Bunyan’s birthplace, I financial aspect of this fight on Blackwater Canyon glows with fall colors. Head up compose this message. The voice of the line here. to Tucker County and enjoy it!! Go out to Lindy Point this mythical man can still be If you want Friends of Black- and see the view. Drive just two miles heard in the depths of the water to be ready and able to beyond the Park Lodge and hike in on the forest...Paul Bunyan urges work with you to defend our new trail one-half mile. You can check out Mountaineers to cherish their beloved Canyon against this lodging and restaurant options on our Crown Jewel. Fight to save the vicious attack — please make the website. Take a bike ride from Thomas Blackwater Canyon from a best financial contribution that down the railtrail. Downhill from wealthy timber company you can today. MountainMade at Coketon, cross the and rich land developers We would not ask you if it bridge and turn left on the wide gravel or you’ll have Paul were not so important. Canyon Trail. You will pass the coke ovens Bunyan to deal with. before entering the heart of the Canyon. Two Thank you so much for your support. Together, we can and we hours later you’ll be in Hendricks. Call Highland Scene Jim Mahrer will protect this magnificent Tours at 877-223-5388 to reserve a shuttle back. 700 Woodland Ave NW landscape for all of our children Have a great Autumn!! Bemidji, MN and grandchildren! 56601 Stuff your Santa Bag Sweepstakes Begin or renew your annual membership with Friends of Blackwater before December 1 and you will be eligible for the Friends of Blackwater Sweepstakes Gift Box: Five books, two t-shirts, one toy flying squirrel, a tote bag, and three posters. Just write the word “sweepstakes” on your remittance envelope. And until December 1, you can help expand our network of supporters by enrolling two friends for the price of one. Complete the following form and include an additional $35 to enroll a friend or relative as a member of Friends of Blackwater. A gift membership card will be sent to them.

Name ______Phone ______Expand Our Address ______City ______State _____ Zip ______Network: Email______Two For One Membership Name ______Phone ______Until Dec.1st Address ______City ______State _____ Zip ______

Email______2 Judy Rodd, President Special Friend and Volunteer: Paul Hill, Vice President Jeannie Dalporto, Secretary Timberline Renaissance Man, Fred Herz Linda Cooper, Treasurer Sandy Fisher For a guy from Bucks County, Pennsyl-

Board of Directors Sheila McEntee vania who knew by the time he was ten that he wanted to study the biology of oceans and travel the globe, it would seem that Annie Dillard West Virginia got in the way of Fred Herz’s Larry Groce dreams. But now—as this year marks Jason Halbert Timberline’s 20th Anniversary—he will tell David Hammer, Esq. you that he is doing exactly what he wants, Alan Karlin, Esq. where he wants. Patrick McGinley, Esq. Fred first ventured into the Allegheny Deborah McHenry, Esq. Highlands while studying biology and chemistry at Columbia Union College J. Lawrence Smith outside Washington, D.C. He and his Advisory Board Rafe Pomerance friends took trips into Smoke Hole Can- Joe Rieffenberger yon, the , and (l to r) West Virginia Inventor and Entrepeneur Steve White, Esq. experienced winter camping on Spruce Fred Herz and Governor Joe Manchin Christopher Wood Knob. Upon graduation in 1985, his family purchased the 450-acre Timberline Four Mountain salamanders that required the Judy Rodd, Director Seasons Ski Resort—perhaps the last ski precaution of an environmental impact study resort of its size and significance east of the before construction could begin. Salamander John Brown Mississippi that remains family owned. Run is within 50 feet of the Dolly Sods Janel Farron Staff The Herz Family invested both money Wilderness and is the longest slope in the Sandra Gardner and sweat in constructing a ski lodge and south. Valerie Little 20-plus trails after their first year of owner- As additional investments were made in Emily Samargo ship. One of the first ski trails built was snow making equipment, chair lifts, and new two-mile-long Salamander Run, named for trails, the resort’s success did not escape the the populations of endangered Cheat attention of real estate investors in the resort business. Field Volunteers Jenny Foreman and Matt Null “When ski conglomerates approach us to buy Timberline, we turn them down,” said Jenny Forman is a senior marketing Matthew Null is a senior at Washing- Fred. major at Virginia Tech. She has ton and Lee University in Lexington, Timberline’s unique rustic charm and worked for River & Trail Outfitters for Virginia. He is an English major whose family-friendly style arises from a personal the past concentration is in poverty studies. In interest in a client’s individual needs. It has 35 three years as Spring 2005, Matt’s short story, “Local ski trails that provide about 14 miles of a raft guide. Earth” was published in Shenandoah, a downshill skiing and many more miles of Jenny’s national literary review. Matt was raised cross-country skiing, two triple-chair lifts, a parents have in Nicholas and Wetzel Counties. Even beginner double-chair lift, and state-of-the-art a cabin in though Matt does not get back home as snow-making equipment. This year, Canaan often as he would like, he follows West $700,000 has been invested in the construc- Valley, and it Virginia’s environmental issues very tion of a new trail. is one of Jenny’s absolute favorite closely. Because generations of his family “We would like to name our newest trail vacation spots. Because Jenny would have enjoyed fishing, in honor of Senator Byrd, pending his hate to see any of the area destroyed, camping, canoeing and acceptance of the gesture. He has done so she sent an email to Friends of Black- hiking the Mongahela much to bring honor and attention to the water asking for newsletters and National Forest, and State of West Virginia, and he has never had a bumper stickers to distribute around especially the Blackwater ski slope named in his honor,” says Fred. the Blacksburg, Virginia area. Jenny is River, Matt distributes Timberline is an exemplary case of the very glad to help and will continue to our newsletters around economic boost tourism brings to Tucker spread the news about the importance Lexington and hopes to someday work County. Timberline employs 340 local of preserving the Blackwater Canyon. on our North Fork Watershed Project. continued on page 11 3 In Memory of Arnout Hyde Jr. In memory By Sheila McEntee In memory of Anna Steele Fernster by Mary M. Morgan - Anna was my older sister who after retiring from Marshall College in Huntington moved to . As long as she was able, she was a great hiker. Anna was also a prize-winning weaver and artist who drew from the Blackwater Canyon her constant source of inspiration to her artistic expression.

In memory of Isabella Burchfield by Samuel Burchfield - Isabella was my wife for 48 years. She loved the Blackwater Canyon, where we vacationed for many years.

In memory of Timothy C. Gavin by Sally Jackson - Tim was my brother who would have been 45 on August 18. While kayaking the Blackwater, Tim drowned in March 1998 doing what he loved at his favorite place. He would The Friends of Blackwater commu- them loyal, native West Virginians— want this special place saved. nity was saddened by the death of Sonny helped raise awareness about Arnout “Sonny” Hyde Jr. on August 9, the plight of the Blackwater Canyon In memory of Paul Clark by 2005. Perhaps the state’s most re- well beyond state borders. He was also Shawn Hartje - Paul was a San nowned photographer, Sonny captured quick to donate his photographs to Francisco attorney and member on film the natural beauty of the state help raise money to sustain the work of the West Coast paddling he loved so well and, in the process, of Friends of Blackwater. community who died last April stirred the hearts of generations of West West Virginia and Friends of in a road cycling accident. He Virginians. As editor of Wonderful West Blackwater have lost a true friend, was my whitewater partner when Virginia magazine, which he helped artist, and advocate in Arnout Hyde. we both lived in Morgantown found in the 1960s, Sonny instilled In addition to his wife, Teresa, and his and Elkins. Paul worked for the pride in many state residents by pub- daughter, Lucia Hyde Robinson, he Natural Research Defense lishing articles and photographs that leaves the gift of his extraordinary Council, where he was instru- showcased the history, wild nature, and work, which forever evidences the mental in drafting many of the exceptional character of West Virginia grandeur and uniqueness of his state’s fishing regulations. and its people. beloved West Virginia. And although Sonny loved the Blackwater Canyon his long battle with prostate cancer In memory of G. R. Mayfield and he was a strong supporter of the has ended, his indomitable spirit by Cleo Mayfield work of Friends of Blackwater. Over the continues to inspire his nephew, Rob years, he found many opportunities to Taylor, who will compete this Novem- In memory of Paul Teter by publish articles and photographs that ber in an Ironman Triathlon in Hazel Oliff both highlighted the canyon’s magnifi- Florida to raise money for the Prostate cence and advocated for its protection. Cancer Foundation. To learn more In memory of Harol and Because Wonderful West Virginia’s about Rob’s effort, or to pledge a gift Ruth Miles by Carol Sue Miles subscriber base includes a large percent- in Arnout Hyde’s honor, visit age of out-of-state readers—many of sonny’sfight.com.

4 Blackwater Area Signs of Fall in the Spruce Country Calendar of Events By: J. Lawrence Smith

NOVEMBER Fall is the season that cannot be Allegheny Front. The broad-winged overlooked due to a patchwork of color hawk reaches peak numbers in mid- 5-6 Basic Hand Weaving with Kate spread across the landscape created by the September when hundreds, even thou- McComas: Mountain Made Studios, variety of colors on the trees. The proper , have been observed in a day at Thomas, WV. Learn to thread a loom and name for the season is autumn, but “fall” Bear Rocks. design and weave fabric for a simple project: has become familiar from hardwoods Large numbers of songbirds make purse, placemat, pillow top or rag rug. shedding their leaves at this time. their way along the mountain with Looms available for student use only. $20. This is the season when it could be proper wind and weather conditions 463-3376 said that Nature turns down the flame of where they are netted and banded. the year. When the season is ended, the Among the more numerous species are 5-6 Papermaking Using Local Plants with Rob land and bare trees await the breath of the ruby-crowned kinglet, Swainson’s Richards: Mountain Made Studios, Thomas, winter. thrush, black-throated green warbler and WV. Process locally harvested plants into The rolling expanses of Dolly Sods blackpoll warbler. fiber abd then into pulp and finally into seem a carpet of Christmas color in Late in the fall is a time to look for paper. $10. 463-3376. October, where the bright red of huckle- birds from the spruce country of Canada berry bushes contrasts sharply with the such as white-winged crossbills, evening 5-6 Introduction to Glass Bead Making with green of spruce. Elsewhere, the red of grosbeaks and, rarely, pine grosbeaks. A Tamra Tafford: Mountain Made Studios, red maple and red oak along with the day becomes memorable when these Thomas, WV. Learn how to use hot glass to pumpkin orange of sugar maple bring birds are seen amid snow-encrusted produce lampworked beads. $40. 463-3376. rainbow hues to mountain slopes. spruce trees. The fluffy heads of cottongrass can Fall is ended and winter comes early 12 Taste of WV Holidays: Elkins; Sample hardly be overlooked in many of the bogs to the high mountains of Tucker Couny WV’s best holiday cuisine at the Chamber of in Canaan Valley, Blackwater Falls State when the season still seems very much Commerce Taste of WV Holidays. The Park and along Dolly Sods. This is a with us at lower elevations. A rare treat Elkins High School Cafeteria is being characteristic plant of the Far North that is to see the high country fit for a transformed into a festive holiday taste event came here during times of widespread Christmas card when the spruce is laden with the area’s best restaurants and caterers glaciers and cooler climate long ago. with snow beneath a crystal blue sky as on site. Tickets are just $10 each and may be Birds of prey—hawks, eagles, ospreys, another becomes a memory. purchased at the Chamber of Commerce falcons—migrate southward along Office. 636-2717.

12-13 Winter Stained Glass Suncatchers with Lynn Gundry: Mountain Made Studios, Thomas, WV. Make a suncatcher with a In memory of winter theme for yourself and one for a Drew Forrester friend. $15. 463-3376. by Tom Rodd G. Drew Forrester, born September 12-13 Red Dogwood Basketry with Connie 5, 1952, in Pittsburgh, PA, died Mon- & Tom McColley: Mountain Made Studios, day, June 21, 2004 at his home in Thomas, WV. Create baskets, wreaths or Martinsburg. He was a strong supporter outdoors structures. FREE of Friends of Blackwater. Drew was a social worker and held two master’s 23-27 Canaan Thanksgiving Celebration: degrees. I first met Drew in Greenbrier Canaan Valley Resort; Crafts, games, County as a “hippie homesteader;” I last contests, hayrides, and winter walks. saw Drew when we hiked the Blackwa- Thanksgiving dinner will be served in the ter Canyon together with Zeke Hickory Room Thursday Eve. 866-4121. Applegate. Drew will be missed by many; and we will keep fighting for the Visit and Shop West Virginia Anytime! human and environmental justice that Drew fought for all his life. Drew hiking the Blackwater Trail 5 West Virginia is divided into two physiographic provinces by an escarpment known as the Allegheny Front. East of the Front is the Appalachian Valley and Ridge Treasures of Province, 4,000 square miles in extent. The streams are in a trellis pattern characteristic of strongly A Place in Time in the folded mountains. Parallel ridges and valleys have been formed with Wilds of the Allegheny a general northeast, southwest direction. Most of the Valley and By Hazel (Smith) Oliff Ridge Province is drained by the . West of the Front, covering an area of 20,000 square miles, is the Allegheny Plateau. The rivers here are dendritic (treelike). These waters eventually reach the A Memory of the Front Ohio River. Famous areas along the Front include Dolly Sods, Roaring Plains, , Spruce Knob, North Fork Mountain and Stack and Bear Rocks. The Allegheny Front is famous for red spruce, huckleberries, rattle snakes, hawk migration and bird banding.

Allegheny Front Threatened by Industrial Land Use The Helmick Run/Laurel Run area of the Allegheny Front is threatened by both The Smith Sisters: Mary, Victoria and Hazel with Huckleberry Harvest strip mining and industrial wind tur- bines. Buffalo Coal and Nedpower Mt Storm are proposing major land distur- Several years ago, my sisters and I steeper and more difficult, forcing us to bances in this scenic area. The mining revisited “The Plains” on the high follow a narrow trail through rock ledges project will cause the degradation of an plateau atop the Allegheny Front where, winding its way to the top. Carrying our important wetland area at Helmick Run as children, we went with our mother to buckets, a sandwich and water jug, we and Lunice Creek. Nedpower’s wind pick huckleberries. walked through stands of stunted red project with 200 mega-wind turbines will Up at daybreak, excited and anxious spruce and beech trees, arriving at the impact human health and reduce prop- for adventure, we milked the cows and crest of the Allegheny with the rising sun. erty values and could kill many of the rushed through our chores before We would stop to admire the magnifi- 300,000 birds and bats a year that beginning the mountain hike from our cent unveiling of mountain after moun- migrate through the project site. Tell the farm in the Allegheny Fore Knobs. Near tain all the way to Virginia. Weather Governor to Stop the destruction of the the top, we took the trail of an aban- permitting, we picked berries until the majestic Allegheny Front, a natural doned railroad grade South toward Bear buckets were filled, many times not resource of great value. Call the Governor Rocks. Along the way, we filled our leaving until evening. Through these at 888-438-2731 and send a comment on water jugs from the headwaters of experiences, I learned to appreciate the Nedpower to DEP, Andy Weaks, 2031 Welton Run with cold spring water land, the rugged unyielding terrain, and Pleasant Valley Rd, Fairmont 26554, flowing down the side of the mountain. the unsurpassed beauty of the Allegheny [email protected] or visit our website. From there, the path became much Front. 6 of the Allegheny Front Ralph Bell West Virginia’s Premier Bird Bander By Cindy Ellis Half an hour before sunrise, the night Since 1958, bird banders have worked stars still shine as volunteers leave warm here, each year in August through bedding and hear their steps crunch October, on the high mountains above along a path to a rocky outcrop near Red Canaan Valley. They hope their efforts Creek campground in the Dolly Sods will add to what is known about popula- Wilderness. Flashlights glow as they raise tions and migrations of northeastern finely knitted panels of mesh netting on birds. Among the founders of the AFMO slender poles. Pink and gold streaks of is Ralph Bell, who deprecatingly terms himself a sheep farmer from Pennsyl- vania. This graduate of Penn State University has been studying birds since childhood, has been a licensed bird bander since 1954, has long attended West Virginia’s annual Following is a letter Ralph Bell wrote to Wildflower Pilgrimage, and was WV Governor Joe Manchin expressing awarded an American Bluebird concern about industrial wind projects on Society award for contributions to the Allegheny Front: bluebird conservation in 1983. His familiarity with and apprecia- tion for the mountains of West No More Windmills Ralph Bell bands the 200,000th bird, Virginia have been gained by more Dear W. Va. Gov. Joe Manchin, a Black-throated Blue Warbler than 50 years of visits and work here. He’s seen nearly 90 species of birds on I do not live in W. Va., but it is my light edge across the horizon and the the Allegheny Front, sometimes 8,000 or favorite state because I often get there questioning notes of thrushes are heard. more per season, as they have been and see the beauty of your state. I am a So begins another day at the Allegheny carefully detained at a small study hut on member of the Brooks Bird Club of Front Migration Observatory, (AFMO). a canyon rim. And, at age 90, he has a Wheeling and get to their outings and perspective not shared by many of us, also I have assisted with the Wildflowr Allegheny Front regarding changes in the mountains and Pilgrimage since 1966. Migration valleys. I have seen the wind turbines near Observatory At the hut, overlooking the nets, Thomas and am worried about the held each year volunteers both veteran and new, watch effect on people who live nearby. There for flashes of color and hurry to gently BrooksBirdClub.ORG at Dolly Sods is evidence that many bats and birds transport Black-throated Blue Warblers, will be killed and we need them to help Juncos, and other species so they may be West Virginia’s Brooks Bird Club control all insects, especially the weighed, measured, and counted. Ralph mosquitoes that carry WEST NILE. recently completed its 48th year of bird Bell has been there hundreds of morn- banding. Be sure to visit the banding Wouldn’t it be better to install genera- ings, and seen many spectacular sunrises tors at water dams and let the water station next year. Banding takes place at Dolly Sods. He is outstandingly in the Dolly Sods Wilderness across furnish electricity instead of causing qualified to request that our state’s problems for people, bats and birds by fromRed Creek Campground. Visit the officials try to help keep this area pre- Brooks Bird Club website for informa- permitting future wind turbine con- served and protected for the birds, and struction? tion on this past bird-banding season for those who are enriched by seeing and next year’s schedule. Sincerely, them there. Ralph Bell 7 Writers Honored at Blackwater Dinner continued from page 1

Charlie Margaret Roy John George Cindy Baer Calwell Clarkson Cuthbert Hall Phillips

Blackwater. Her love for Tucker County and extensively on the history and cultural heritage from Fairmont State College and a certificate the Canyon is fueled by her vivid memories of of West Virginia. John is curator of thirty in Cultural Resource Management from West growing up in Davis. Calwell’s amazing history and fine arts exhibits, including David Virginia University. In her spare time, and as a childhood comes to life in her first book, Speak Hunter Strother, One of the Best Draughtsmen labor of love, she created a charming, pictoral to the Past: A Memoir Fat With Words. Her the County Possesses, and he co-authored a book history of Tucker County, published in August stories tell of Davis’ rich cultural and industrial by the same name on Strother’s art published of this year. In Images of America: Tucker history. Calwell describes clambering over by WVU Press in 1997. This show of West County, miners and railroaders, teamsters and huge boulders to take “the old way” to the foot Virginia art toured five states from 1997 to woodhicks stare out at us from Blackwater’s of Blackwater Falls to swim. Calwell lives in 2002, highlighting the work of Porte Crayon industrial past. Cindy became interested in the Charleston and attributes her inspiration for (Strother’s pen name) who drew and wrote faces of Tucker County history while taking writing to her Aunt Pearle Digman Mott, who about Blackwater Canyon when it was still a part in an oral history project when she was an was the vital statistics clerk of Davis and the wilderness in the mid-Nineteenth Century. Americorps volunteer. She also lends support author of History of Davis and Canaan Valley. Strother’s stories and engravings about to the Tucker County Historical Society, New Blackwater, published in Harper’s Monthly in Historic Thomas, and Thomas Education Roy B. Clarkson was born in Cass, West the 1850s and 1870s, made the area famous Center. Cindy donates a portion of her book Virginia on October 25, 1926 as the youngest across the country. John worked with sales to Tucker County Connections, a school of eleven children. His childhood memories Strother’s descendents to have his original program that encourages fifth-graders to learn are filled with the whistle of Shay engines, the drawings donated to WVU. about the area’s resources, history and heritage. whine of saws at the mills, the smell of newly sawn lumber, and the exciting stories about George A. Hall was a 13-year-old boy scout people and events of this colorful town. He when he made his first observations on birds started working at the Cass sawmill at during a short hike. George’s interest in birds seventeen while still attending Green Bank grew with him, and in 1950 when he made High School. Roy was appointed to the faculty West Virginia his permanent home, he began of the Department of Biology at West Virginia conducting intensive and systematic studies University in 1956. He retired from there as on the birds of West Virginia. In 1983, Professor Emeritus of Biology in 1992. He has George authored West Virginia Birds—the first published over 30 papers in scientific journals published catalog of the birds of West Virginia in the fields of plant taxonomy and plant since 1944. Later, he and Albert Buckelew, Jr. distribution. His other research interest, the wrote The West Virginia Breeding Bird Atlas. history of lumbering in West Virginia, has The Atlas was a special project of the Brooks resulted in a popular book, Tumult on the Bird Club in cooperaton with the West Mountains-Lumbering in West Virginia, 1770- Virginia Division of Natural Resources and 1920. In 1990, Roy’s sequel, On Beyond National Fish and Wildlife Foundation. Leather Bark was published. These books George is a professor emeritus of West document the colorful history and the Virginia University, where he earned his destruction caused by timbering in the bachelor’s degree in chemistry and taught for Blackwater and other areas. forty years. George is a long-time member of the Brooks Bird Club and is a frequent John Cuthbert is Curator and Director of contributor to its publication, The Redstart. See our website for a the West Virginia and Regional History complete list of these Collection and Special Collections at the West Cynthia Phillips grew up in Newburg, authors’ books: Virginia University Libraries. John has written Preston County. She has a biology degree SaveBlackwater.ORG

8 Watershed Update

Friends of Blackwater welcomes Sandra Gardner as coordinator for their North Fork Watershed Project.

Thanks to local businesses that showed their support with generous donations toward the 3rd Annual Watershed Celebration Day: Lena’s Bakery, the Purple Fiddle, Canyon Rim Bikes, H & H Hardware, Wilderness Sports, LaFontaine Bakery, Backbone Farm, Kingsford Charcoal, and Shop‘N Save. Also a special thanks to Cindy Phillips who signed her new book, Images of America: Tucker County.

State Park trail expansion project underway with a lot of help from Friends The North Fork Watershed tour led by Marshall Blackwater Falls State Park project is getting closer to its next Leo from the DEP took Celebration Day Superintendent Rob Gilligan hosted a phase: organizing volunteers. participants past coke ovens built in the late 1800s meeting with Friends of Blackwater Join our trail volunteers network. and Tucker County Trails on Sunday, Call the North Fork Watershed office September 25 to discuss next years’s at 463-4068 to work on the trail expansion project inside the park. expansion and upcoming tree Scheduled for completion before planting events later this year. Autumn 2006, the new 1.5-mile trail will begin across the road from the Gentle Trail, cross the Tank Run tributary to the Blackwater River, and continue to the town of Davis. We are happy to report that the Making rainmakers was highlight of the children’s project is supported by the activities scheduled for Watershed Celebration Conservation Fund and the West Day hosted by North Fork Volunteers Seth Pitt, Virginia Trails Coalition. Both groups Jenny Beckstead and Cade Archuleta. made a donation of $1,000 each. Other sources of suport, include Tucker County Trails, Blackwater Falls State Park, NiSource, Norcrosse, and Aeolian Enterprises. The Blackwater River Trail will guide hikers and bikers through the 500-acre parcel of land added to the Park in 2001. Remember, it is because of Friends of Blackwater and its strong membership, that this land was purchased.We are currently in the Left: Friends of Blackwater members (l) research and engineering stage of the Christine Christianson and (c) Nathan project. Once the bridge and trail Anderson and Blackwater Falls State work is completed on the new Park assistant superintendent (r) Blackwater River Trail, a boardwalk in Melissa Brown take in the beauty of the trail as they survey area where the new a wetland area rarely seen by tourists bridge will be built. Map of Coketon/Kempton Mine will begin. But for now, the bridge Pool with Flooded Tunnels 9 Biking Blackwater Firsthand Biking Report on the Blackwater Bikes, P.O. Box 190, Davis Blackwater Canyon Rim Trail 304-259-5286 blackwaterbikes.com By John Sherwood, DCSki Columnist May 13, 2002 — A roaring noise Blackwater Falls State Park, Davis stopped me in my tracks right after I (that’s what 800-CALL-WVA blackwaterfalls.com started pedaling up the Canyon Rim Sue Haywood Road. I turned around and peered down rides too!) and Blackwater Outdoor Adventures into the Blackwater Canyon. Among the had no Route 1, Box 239, St. George trees, I spotted a powerful cascade of problems 304-478-3775 blackwateroutdoors.com water. This was not my first time on this going over trail, but I had no idea there was a big baseball size Canaan Valley Resort State Park waterfall just outside of Douglas, WV! rocks and 800-622-4121, canaanresort.com Amazed by this discovery, I resolved to small streams. check out this hidden wonder and take We stopped Canyon Rim Outfitters NEW some photos on my return trip. The for lunch at Thomas 304-463-3366 waterfall is just one of the many treats the promontory near mile 7 and watched At the intersection of Routes 32 and 219 offered by the 9 mile long Canyon Rim falcons circling above the canyon. I in Thomas, Canyon Rim Outdoors is the trail. This trail, also known as the Olson brought my handy MSR stove along so fusion of the old Buffalo Creek Bike Tower trail, is we had a hot meal—freeze dried chicken Shop in Elkins and a new friendship rated intermedi- with rice! After eating, we endured the between Ben Quarles and Tom Samples ate because it toughest climb of the trip: the final one when they moved to Thomas with a requires a mile slog up to Olson tower. The one mutual interest in mind: a biking rental reasonable redeeming aspect of this leg is that it is and repair center at the head of the amount of on a graded Forest Service road rather Blackwater Trail. Besides biking climbing, and than the mottled Canyon Rim road. The services, Canyon Rim has an ice cream fording of several reward for the climb is an unforgettable parlor and restaurant. Give them a visit! streams. Much of the trail follows an panoramic view of the region from the abandoned road, full of large rocks, ruts, top of the fire tower. Highland Scene Tours, Canaan Valley potholes, gullies, and other obstacles. and Blackwater Falls State Park The major climbs fall at the beginning About the Author 877-223-5388 highlandscenetours.com and end of the journey. The ride back to John Sherwood is a columnist for Douglas is all downhill. What I liked DCSki. When he’s not hiking, biking, or Timberline Four Seasons Resort, Canaan about the Canyon Rim Trail, besides the skiing, he works as a historian at the Naval 800-SNOWING timberlineresort.com great views, is its difficulty level. The trail Historical Center. His newest book, falls somewhere between rail grade and Afterburner: Naval Aviators and the Timberline Mountain Biking Center single track in the mountain biking Vietnam War, was recently published by the Canaan Valley 800-SNOWING continuum. In short, it is a good way to New York University Press. timberlineresort.com/summer/biking.asp get your feet wet (literally and figura- tively) without worrying about extreme DIRECTIONS: challenges of many single track trails in the West Virginia highlands. My wife Mike Caplinger, a West Virginia histo- To locate the eastern end of the loves this trail, and she is no Sue rian specializing in the railroad industry Canyon Rim (Olson Tower) Trail, Haywood (a national champion moun- and Henry Gassaway Davis, has given us take Douglas Road (CR 27) from tain biker from nearby Davis). During valuable help with our Blackwater Thomas, WV through villages of last year’s exceptionally dry summer, I history projects. Mike was seriously Coketon and Douglas. Where even did the uphill portion of the trail on injured and hospitalized last month and paved Douglas Road ends, dirt FR a cyclocross bike. I have to admit - it was is now home recovering. We wish him 18 starts its ascend – this is the a struggle. I ended up taking US 219 well in his return to health and hope he Canyon Rim Road. When park- back, fearing that my rims (and my will soon be up at Blackwater. ing, make sure that you don’t behind) would get bashed up in the block any gates or private path- Send get well wishes to descent. Based on that experience, I ways. Don’t confuse this trail with 243 Fields Park Road would advise people to stick to mountain the Blackwater River Trail located Morgantown WV 26508 bikes for this trail. This time, we tackled at the bottom of the Canyon. the trail on Trek Fuel 90 mountain bikes 10 Herz (continued from page 3) Open for business in Thomas, West Virginia: residents during peak ski season. Off-peak seasons bring tourists who enjoy Lena’s Bakery Timberline’s quiet mountain retreat. From On Front Street in Thomas, there’s an old-world style bakery with cushioned nature walks in the Canaan window seating and quaint, historic charm named after anyone whose name is Lena. Valley National Wildlife When owners Cynthia Bentley and Mike and Betty Leigh opened the bakery this past Refuge to restaurants and May, they thought they were honoring Cynthia’s Great Nanna. She was the wife of horseback riding to a Cynthia’s Great Grandfather who was a pastry chef in Jersey City. Only problem: network of mountain biking trails that Nanna’s name was Anna, not Lena. Rather than change the name, Lena’s owners interconnect with the cross-country slopes/ decided that the bakery could belong to all the Lenas of the world. trails of White Grass Touring Center and Lena’s Bakery is best known to locals and tourists for its quiche dishes and over- Dolly Sods, Timberline is truly a four sized cinnamon rolls that come with a choice of caramel or vanilla icing, and season destination resort with a pristine sprinkled with pecans. outdoor charm. For lunch, Lena’s features four sandwiches on freshly-baked bread: the Asparagus Fred is a special volunteer, because he Melt, Veggie Melt, Cold Veggie and Griled Chicken. On Wednesdays and Thursdays, likes connecting with people like Friends of Calzones with fresh marinara sauce are served.YUM! Blackwater Director Judy Rodd, Mother of Dolly Sods Helen McGinnis, and High- lands Conservancy Administrator Dave Saville ,to help strategize on ways to promote preservation of West Virginia’s most scenic natural areas. “Preservation of the most wild and scenic areas in Tucker and surrounding counties is critical to continuing the natural legacy of the state.” he explains. “The arrival of Corridor H into the Allegheny Highlands will present new challenges and opportunities for sustainable recreation and ecotourism related industries Friends of Blackwater and the North Fork Water- like alpine and cross country skiing. We shed Project proudly present their new history need this to balance out the state’s depen- publication, Blackwater Roots, featuring the dency on notoriously eco-unfriendly Nineteenth Century writings and drawings of industries. It behooves authorities, environ- David Hunter Strother and a Family Stories mentalists and developers to work together column that highlights the lives of Tucker County in a deliberate coordinated fashion to come natives. To subscribe or submit a story send your up with a cooperative plan which respects request to [email protected]. and leverages both sides’ perspectives, Friends of Blackwater also just published a tri-fold, wisdom and expertise.” glossy brochure featuring the beauty of the Can- “Rationally speaking, preservation of yon and the message, “West Virginia’s Crown wild, scenic and ecologically significant Jewel: Yours to Enjoy, Yours to Protect.” Spread areas has always drawn visitors to Timber- the word and build our network. Request a packet line and keeps us all in business. Timberline of the brochures to distribute among your friends. has pioneered this idea of high quality “eco- development” which resonate with the natural surroundings.” Charlie Black, a.k.a. High He believes these coordinated efforts fit Baloney Man, into a long-term sustainable vision for respresenting Friends Allegheny future growth in our region and that it is a of Blackwater as he win-win strategy for everyone. National and his wife, Janice “Cooperation will provide sustainable Park... growth to the economy while preserving Black, serve peach West Virginia’s treasured legacy, its wild and cobbler at the Charles- scenic places, its wildlife and its traditional ton Multifest. Yes! Appalachian culture,” he added. 11 Friends of Blackwater NON-PROFIT www.saveblackwater.org ORG 501 Elizabeth Street, Rm 3 US POSTAGE Charleston, WV 25311 PAID PERMIT NO. 1409 Address Service Requested CHAS., WV 25301

Cabin for Sale! by Michael Burton [email protected]

Leadmine Road, Tucker County wv.craigslist.org/rfs/96957064.html Get away to the Fiddler’s Roost

The Fiddler’s Roost Bed and Breakfast Nearby, guests can visit quaint shops, you will be able to catch a Mountain is located in a turn-of-the-century coal hear live traditional music, and discover Music Weekend performance and company duplex that has been tastefully the growing arts community in Thomas. understand what makes the Purple renovated for comfort. The building, With the Allegheny Highland trailhead Fiddle and the Fiddlers Roost all so which is right next door to the Purple directly across from the Fiddler’s Roost, magic. Fiddle and facing the river Guests may also hike, bike Guestrooms: Eliza Jane-overlooks the in downtown Thomas, West or ski the rail trail, where valley with two double beds and pet Virginia features eight historic coke ovens, stone allowance; Lark In the Morning and private rooms, each with its culverts, and spectacular Shady Grove-one double bed and pet own unique personality of waterfalls can be seen. allowances; Morning Dew-overlooks the style and nostalgia. Enjoy The Fidler’s Roost is valley with one queen bed, one single patchwork quilts, eclectic owned by John and Kate bed and pet allowance; Blackberry antiques, and handmade Bright who also own a Blossom-one queen bed and no-pet rule; guest soaps. There are five pretty famous establishment June Apple-one double bed, one twin bathrooms—none private— next door: The Purple bed and no-pet rule; Soldier’s Joy-two a living and dining space, Fiddle Coffeehouse. The double beds and no-pet rule; and Fire on and a community kitchen. Purple Fiddle offers whole- the Mountain-four bunks, wooden floor Telephone service is avail- some food and beverages and no-pet rule. able and every room is provided with a that rejuvenate a weary tourist. After all, VCR and television for watching a wide The Purple Fiddle was voted “Best Post- The Fiddler’s Roost selection of complimentary movies from Trail Hangout 2003” by Blue Ridge Post Office Box 87 the living room library. Outdoors magazine and as you might Thomas, WV 26292 A stay at The Fiddler’s Roost starts at $49 have heard, they boast the best beer (304) 463-4040 on weekdays and $69 on the weekends. selection imaginable. If you are lucky, Kate and John Bright, Innkeepers 12