FL Â NEUR GUIDE Deal is one of those places that time seems to have left behind. A key NORTH DEAL (ND) LOWER DEAL F merchantile port that grew into a garrison town and later into a minor N 273 Modernist house with a pronoun- resort, Deal with has singularily avoided the brutal effects of Sandown Road North End (NE) ced sculptural quality; originally not Royal Cinque College Road LC Mediterranean Modernist garden court, mid C20 commercialism that has disfigured many a sea-side area. unlike a Donald Judd piece. By Leslie SS Ports Golf Club, Hight’s CH Old flour store with nicely tapering chimney, –1810? The oldest part, lying a short distance north of (the castle’s 1892 Kemp & Tasker, 1935. Sadly disfigured Brewery 271 Immaculate ’30s house built by 1 Quirky overhanging roof to rear extension commander insisted on a clear angle of fire for his gunners) remains a Sandown George Denne, with a glazed pantiled 4 Handsome, double-fronted brick house on a shallow Restoration gem despite the intentions of misguided councillors and Castle, 3C roof that reflects the moon and nice site; formerly the home of a pilot, c1725 rapacious developers. Lower Walmer to the south, set between sea and (demolished replacement windows, 1936 An old town shop Most charming Yon Sea, Ivy clad Seagirt, 15 Unspoilt cottage with many original features, 1710 railway, is less old, mainly Regency and Victorian, and boasts smart 1863) Line of old 171 Jolly residence with tent-like leaded NE:18a NE:124 NE:SG 12 One of Deal’s many bulging edifaces, its curved gable, , handsome stuccoed villas and Henrician castle (which I cover sea wall 273 canopies and terracotta swags, 1896 CH uniquely for the old town, fronting the street, 1690 47a In 1928, JB Priestley wrote Good Ark Lane later along with that of Deal). A mile or so towards , up Drum Hill, 271 North St 191 Former boarding house, 1800. Lodgers: an owner of Companions whilst staying in this the ancient village of Walmer dates from the Norman times and has a Princes Street 4 SG a Cape goldmine, a lady who ran a funfair in Margate fine old church and remains of a fortified manor house. wonderfully preserved, seaside home 1 < Deal to Sandwich 39-41 Grandly scaled, early Victorian Peter Street Alfred Square Dolphin St Seagirt RE Seafront hotel, like many former commercial buildings

A G U I D E T O & P L A C E S Immediately westward of the old town of Deal (or should I say the New Road c.1535 terrace with curved end section and 1782– Prince 15 12 in Deal shorn of its painted lettering, c1800? Site of Beach Street Town as it was once called) lie a network of streets built to accommo- Albert 191 windmill balcony; Cutty Sark owner John ‘White LC SG Last house removed seaward of Beach Street, ivy date a burgeoning population at the time of the ; and Hat’ Willis had a home here. c1840 Middle St clad with wonderfully idiosyncratic bargeboards, –C19 Godwyn Road AC Old lifeboat station sans belfry but BUILDINGS IN across the railway is suburban Middle Deal, mostly turn of the century; RE 18a Regency shopfront to what was once Goldfinch & retaining its interesting terracotta Curved gable, ‘between the wars’ south of Church Path. 171 Exchange St Sons’ bakery shop, early C19. Four buns please missus roundels, the right one dated 1883 NE:12 Big Chief 182 12.5 cm to 1 km/7.8 inches mile If you go westwards down Queen Street, and then via Church Path if you 19 cm to .5 km/12 inches mile MR Conjoined houses with a ’30s interior, walk-in safe George St I-Spy’s home and Merchants Room with painted mural, C17? are walking, or continue along London Road if you are not, you will reach Harold Road the old village of Addelam (Upper Deal) and its interesting Norman 151-153 Sh, 45 Pair of smart ‘London’ houses, in yellow brick Houses, with red rubbers; both with central doorways, early C19 church with white cupola and pleasant Georgian houses. If you do decide c1900 Water Street 133 Wonderfully bold refronting to early gabled house to walk, which I recommend, you will pass by Court Lodge, an old Tudor The Marina Griffin St Manse, probably the first house built between village and coast. 18a reflecting the vogue for the Italianate, –c1850 Flint base 19 Unrendered brick house with rubble and flint footings And to complete this overview I must mention Mill Hill, a sprawling estate NORTH DEAL 180 Portobello Ct MR to Sandown Late-Georgian, and an extremely tall doorcase, C17 between the two villages, built for miners and their families in 1929; and Farm barn ND class II, 1785 45 Silver St 127 One of the town’s first cottages. The vertical brick North Deal with its charming Edwardian houses facing the sea. Sandown Road Shiny ’30s house The Ivy Place infills on the upper part of its facade indicate the ND:271 Ship Fishermen’s huts, chapels and windmills dotted Deal’s beach as far back Sh Pilot position of net-drying hooks; lamps in its small windows

THE SLADE Beach Street House as the 1500s but it wasn’t until around the time of the Commonwealth The Gosse: NORTH END acted as beacons for fishermen, pre. 1660 Old name for DEAL that a settlement began to form. The shape of the town proves its close old name for Golden St 133 SS ‘Lillypad’ shelters, design possibly influenced by the area between 47a Nelson Street the area between North Promenade connection to the sea. Three longitudinal roads were threaded between Robert St New St A N D W A L M E R MAP Sandown Castle Arc Lane and Frank Lloyd Wright’s Dentiform columns of 1936-9 existing buildings – and the first of many cross lanes and alleys added and Alfred Square St Georges Road, 98 Old store with a deep roof envelope and over-

ISBN: 978-0-9565509-1-0 (E2D1) Britannia Rd College Road developed 1780s– that were to make up the town’s sinuous grid. It makes for a fascinating developed 1782– Inn sign 19 hanging window used as a lookout by smugglers, –1780 39-41 118 dense texture, a 17th-century town with a strong Flemish flavour and of 127 Middle St 6, 5, 8-9 Row cottages, all originally one-room deep, with Coastguard SS a remarkable homogeneity. building, 1890 Farrier St boxed-in kite-winder staircases and huge fireplaces c1690

Old rope walk, 1877 > Charles 17 Old fisherman’s cottage tilting at odd angles, c1670– Georgianization and buildings from later periods have altered its Coastguard Jolly frontage, Down Golden St, Hawtrey’s Early C19 houses/stables Duke St home 117 13 Barrel-chested front to cottage with a tall doorcase, morphology. But what has been lost is more than offset by the delights ND:CC NE:133 terrace Parking

Beach Street Beach its colouring a touch ‘spitalfieldsey’ in character, 1680– that accrue from the juxtaposition of buildings of different periods and Horsa Rd Hoxton Market Canning Store 142 Sea wall 124 Most charmingly composed front to merchant’s styles. To this day the town retains the old street pattern and building 6 factory,1890 98 Smuggling 1982 house probably built at the old street level, –1769 plots. The grid was never modified nor areas completely ruined. Slums passage

Middle St 122 Stiffly handled, English Renaissance house with were torn down, new buildings erected but none were too grand nor too Abel’s Coppin St 13 tiered bays and wooden cornices, for William Hulke, 1760 C C LUMGAIR big to alter the essential character of the place. With altitude, Congregational boatyard 17 Dibden Rd High Street NE:1 82 Grandiose Italianate courtyard to early house So what of the rest of the Deal? 124 AC 1882, by 120A Former Baptist chapel and Central Hall nestling at Well – the pier is certainly challenging, a splayed-legged concrete < Union Road Joseph 122 C19 terrace 82 Adelaide the original, much lower, street level, 1692–mid C19 structure with militaristic-looking shelters, but its new café shows that, SS Gardner Old Central Baths Suggestive of the Orient Rooms with a view NO VACANCES, Old music TH Unshowey town hall in yellow brick with columnated > Hall 1 hall FL Â NEUR G U I D E BUILDINGS IN DEAL AND WALMER with a bit of imagination, difficult structures can be given a new lease ND:39-41 NE:175-7 Beach Street NE:RE Nat Gubbins undercroft and simplified Serlian window, 1803. (114) 120A Brewerhome St 109 Old bond warehouse with cushioned fascia, –1802 MIDDLE DEAL (MD) JJB Modernist junction box, by James 83 Insurance North Wall Rd 1 Elaborate Regency doorcase with altitude, also –1802 Robb Scott’s team at Southern Region, Ark Lane 114 firemark, 1797 SG Queen Anne period church with octagonal cupola, 132 Court Lodge, a fine old Tudor 1938; the style influenced by Charles 1 Parking manse linked to St. Augustines Abbey, Holden’s work for London Transport Town Hall John Rennie’s 1716. By Samuel Simmons, assisted in the later stages Oak St featuring a wonderfully elaborate, SM Appropriate train-shed reference to Mostly C19 TH 112 Dunlin FountainBeach Street pier, 1838 by John James, one of the surveyors to the Church buildings Relic, stepped window moulding and a porch supermarket entrance canopy, 1998; Some late C18– & Diver Hotel Commissioners, the other being Hawksmoor. The set- C17, mostly with curved gable, –C16; C18 front designed by Lifschutz Davidson SE:CH vicarage C18 buildings Benoit LOWER DEAL backs in its pediment, though subtle, are pure Baroque 17 Elegant wooden porch to half- WT Stuccoed terrace with rusticated Maritime Some late Wine 102 Royal RH Georgian hotel with waterside pavilion, late C18– timbered semi-detached house, c1900 base and plain first-storeys framed by Museum C18 and St Georges Psg Chapel St Hotel 17-19 Builder-designed houses; Corinthian pilasters, c1840 Modernist cabin C19 buildings ‘Lillypad’ shelter, Smuggler’s window, St George St George’s Road RH Nelson rested South End (SE) semi-detached, with fine brickwork and MD:JB NE:SS NE:98 SG CH here in 1801 Rose fluted pilasters, 1892. Probably the first PIER, LOWER DEAL (LD) SS The Black CH Chimney, a reminiscence of the old beach settlement Hotel, Douglas 83 houses in a suburb that’s peppered with Duke Street Turner painted 68-80 Terrace for the town’s bourgeois-workers, c1840 Methodist, Farrier Street 1804 High Street Western Road Chapel Field Sorting 9 Deal’s shoreline Old English and Queen Anne motifs PIER 1026 foot long, concrete clad, St Andrew, 1966, by SO Historicist Postal Sorting Office building that would West Street Office SO in 1825 131 Rosway, a substantial Queen Anne steel pier with splayed legs, odd 1850, D Garbutt 10 Remnant, not look at all out of place in Bruges, by a colleague of by Ambrose Walton 68-80 75 1623 brick manor house with original oak militaristic-looking shelters and a landing Captain Market St Customs’ both Butterfield and Street, CB Hutchinson, 1904 Poynter Theatre 77-81 Amusement staircase and panelled reception room, stage for pleasure steamers, 1957; its Parker’s Fish market Watch Some late grave Parking George Alley arcade 71 House 77-81 Substantial red brick Queen Anne houses on part of 1699–1710. The legendary batsman café with charmingly tiled ‘conveniences’ Hall cobbles C18 and early 3-23 Jetted WC the grounds where the old Pelican Inn stood (pre-1636), WG Grace once played cricket on its lawn have been replaced by a structure by C19 buildings Some late terrace, –1919 GH King St Odd Fellows Alley 1700. Others demolished when Stanhope Road was built. 85 Cottage with three hipped roofs Niall McLaughlin, 2008. On the site of a Level C17, mostly Stanhope Road, 1902 Hall OFH Boatmans GH Historic guildhall-cum-courthouse-cum-jailhouse picturesquely appended to larger house Victorian pier, 1864; damaged 1940 Metaphoric pier café, JB crossing C18 buildings Picturesque survivor, 65 Rooms (no 87), both 1720, south front 1820 LD:PIER NE:17 standing on glass, 1700s. In need of restoration Four Step Alley 79-81 Surprisingly dowdy-looking RH Site of Deal’s Zigzag 61 9;10 House with an exposed moulded beam, possibly St George’s Rd canopy Regency villas set down a lane, c1830 Deal to first jetty and Custom House Lane AW Wave wall, originally wood framed (C16?–); another that’s 3 Cottage with ornate brickwork and Rennie’s Pier 2012 Ramsgate West Street 60 flint-fronted (C17–), a rarity in the town Arts and Crafts touches to its interior, 1895 Park St South Promenade 1832 railway line, King Street Coach Yard Cockle Swamp Parking OFH Deco cinema in former Odd Fellows Hall, late C19– GC Footings to G Chitty’s Lower Deal 1847 Jasin’s Alley Short Street 60 Sinuous glazing and tiling to former tailors’ shop, 1890 windmill, closed 1870 (no access) Restaurant

LOWER DEAL Beach Street 102 A most elegant Regency house with AW Suspense, anticipation, surprise: all triggered when

PIER Pedestrianized a charming latticed porch, railings from 85 walking through these narrow alleys onto the front LD Parking SOUTH END a Belgian chateau and a sunken, walled 13 Dignified brick elevation to commercial premises, 87 SM Supermarkets Custom garden, c1790 Corinthian order, INCONVENIENCES, Oldest area Dignified commerce, Pier, with arcuated entranceway and Serlian window, 1825 Baroque house, House 1957 MD:WT LD:PIER of the new town SE:13 Deal of Lower SE:13 1 Former ‘Boots’ the chemist, with oriel windows set on Sutherland Rd Station Deal, c1535 Queen Street Site of two sides, a favourite motif of Norman Shaw, 1923 131 Café The Old Nrth Blck Hrse Ally Albert RoadFire 1A Where Deal’s old hangman hung out, c1700 Middle Deal Road Old toll Play House Primrose Alley The OldGrove station path Station house High Street 13 Lovely Dutch Baroque house, four-square with curved Some early 1-9 C19 buildings Supermarkets gable-end a flip image of the gable beside it. Its narrow 36-44 London Road Terrace, South Street Horse Black Library Terrace, central window is a nice rythmic touch. The break in the c.1860 Admiralty Broad St 132 Church Path 1851 stringcourse suggests that its doorcase might have been MIDDLE DEAL Police House 1 Wellington Road taller and thus more typical of the period, –c1710 17-19 Cowper Rd WT Mostly C18 <13 MD Allotments Gateway buildings Mostly C19 Harp Alley 16 Imposing Georgian facade to earlier dwellings,

Regency elegance, Shavian windows, SE:1 Pedestrianized

Mainly buildings 13 16 –1780. The warren of houses that lie to its south have Jews c1900 Victoria Road Queen Street 1A King’s MD:102 17 < Grange Road Blenheim Road Pop-up happily maintained their tight layout, C17 and C18. No 2, Café Middle St Head Mostly C19, overflying the alleyway, is particularily characterful C20 buildings Perkin Warbeck’s 16 Beach 79-81 men landed Warren Hotel WCH Robust ornamentation to Victorian coaching inn Claremont Rd hereabouts (1897) that faces onto a wide thoroughfare; such a Mill Road 154, in 1495 2 Port street is a rarity in Britain, if it’s not a marketplace Farmhouse, 3 Arms EC Home of Deal blue-stocking Elizabeth Carter, 1762– c1800 < South Street EC Bowling Green Lane London Road (A258) GC DealDeal 14-8, 4-2 GC GilfordGilford RoadRoad BusesBuses One of a series of guides aimed at increasing awareness of the contribution Castle,Castle, PH TaxisTaxis 1930s 102 VICTORIA TOWN AND NEARBY (VT) 3C Isaura’s TheThe RegentRegent well-designed buildings and places make to the quality of people’s lives Allotments 3C Isaura’s ParkingParking Allotments 4 café TR TR Art Deco cinema frontage to Winter Gardens Elaborate stepped window moulding, MD:132 Blenheim InRd Bruges? SE:SO 4 café WCH TR Blenheim Ro pavilion erected just five years earlier on the site of the Park Avenue Coach- Masonic Mostly C19 town’s skating rink. By Percy Levett, 1933 Hospital VL houses Hall TT buildings Wellington Road 1811– 5 Sondes Road 2 Finely ornamented, Queen Anne Revival house, 1901 > > FL Â NEUR GUIDE 234-238 VL Italianate dispensary with deep bracketed eaves, 1863 2 Terraces FT 5 Charming Regency house evolved from boat builders’ 11 Villa, Rd Victoria late C19

188 < Site of the Naval Yard, a Marine Road 1790s– premises; brick with some timber cladding, 1783–1816 285-293 Leas Road34- Clanwilliam 18th-century terrace, St Thomas of used from 1703 to 1864 b i TT Timeball Tower, four-storey building topped by a Cottages, Church Path Old rope walk House CH VT:13-15 Canterbury c.1820 Boundary wall to 22- movable sphere controlled from Greenwich, 1821 13-17 Stanley Road Graveyard Manor House 9- LR Site of Infirmary c/d 31 Westward Ho!, former guest house that boasts a 288 Barracks, e ST Manor Avenue East Barracks 31 Thomas Hughes Baptist originally a f g decorative gable featuring a moustachioed man, 1897 Art Deco cinema, lived here 19 1881, by 99 96-94 UPPER DEAL brickfield EB ST Church by late Pugin follower FA Walters, 1885 Holly Barn, h VT:TR J Wills VICTORIA TOWN Site of Gladstone Road SSH 22 St Leonard Mid C19 OUTGROUNDS 21 13-17 Terrace of three houses, with tall doorcases and tollgate 80 Farmhouse, UD SL Old name for the 1777 smaller doorways leading to their rear gardens, c1780 RT Neo-Georgian Old area between 107- house, 2012 WC Queen Street and Clanwilliam Road 21 Town house of 1805, featuring an impressive Italianate Addelam Rd Site of shopfronts Military a Gladstone Road, porch (a 20th-century addition) and a music room built for Manor SP 31 Prince of Wales Terrace Rectory Rd 58 graveyard developed 1782– 1-2 House, Manor Rd b Chemist the Head of the School of Music, 1855 –1680 Posing at The Oaks, White cube Fountain turned kiln c Bathing machines for hire, Edwardian 32-38 houses 31 Pub with extant partitioned snug bar ‘but not a tarred, St Leonard’s Road UD:TO UD:LR UD:FT d LW:CH Beaconsfield Road 41-43 and trowsered, and blue and buff crew in sight’, 1750? Mostly UPPER DEAL AND NEARBY (UD) T-shaped Regency villa with an oriental 45 Original 1860s 32-38 Fancifully ornamented Gothic houses, 1870s The old inland village of Addelam garden elevation featuring a curved The Strand Ranelagh Road > Site of blocks cottages 45- Charming little dwellings redolent of the sea, 1805

< veranda, balcony and tiny Thermal Globe York Road Walmer Victoria Rd

Blemheim Road SEH Site of the South Eastern Hotel, by High Victorian 288 Jenkin’s Well, a Commonwealth- window. Built for retired Admiral Sir Theatre Site of North Green 45 church architect James Brooks, 1892; unsurprisingly period house with double gable-end and John Harvey, 1819?; copy 1997 Barracks NB Allotments SEH lovely 17th-century brickwork, –1639; CE Spread across Mill Hill, a colliery Canada Road Bandstand fire damaged in advance of being listed, 1981. Built in 234-238 A wonderfully deep-roofed estate of 950 identically designed Barracks 23 Lifeboat a Dutch Renaissance style, in brick with banded stone L-shaped building made up of three red-roofed semi-detached houses, 1929 chapel (ruin) Station < Deal Castle Road and with tall gables and roofs. Its set forward centre 1865 Commonwealth -period cottages, one LR 9-34 Built by George Denne around > St Saviour, was matched by projecting angled sections flanked by originally a barn, 1659 the time of the 1934 Ideal Home St Michael to barracks, Greenwich time signaller, 1849, by RS narrow octagonal towers topped with ogee domes 188 Five-bay, porticoed house that had Exhibition, these Art Deco houses over and All Angels, LW:NB Hope Road VT:TT 20 John Johnson an uninterrupted view of the sea, c1820 time have sadly been much altered 1870s Conservation areas 107- A pair of delightful box-framed, RT A five-bay, dun-coloured brick house Cavalry Stag Inn Gilford Road clap-boarded cottages, c1780? with Serlian doorcase, c1768. A re- Barracks CB Front, Royal works Old drill field 1715– 99 A rustic barn with corrugated iron modelling of an earlier Jacobean rectory Bollards by The Strand Church/chapel/hall roof girded by traffic signs, early C19 SL Fascinating parish church with a b LW Christian, The 96-94 The Old House Tormore, with Late Norman aisled nave (c1180), red c1840 Captain’s LOWER WALMER Municipal building bits of vermiculated rendering, 1774 brick tower with battlements (1684), Young Norman Garden a Wisdom’s home Deal Castle 58 Manor House Cottage with nesting and a doorway loosely based on the South Liverpool Road Commercial premises 11 Caesar’s 3C (See below) ledges for doves, late C17; a gem west door of Wren’s St Mary-le-Bow of Barracks 13 likely Place of learning/library 1-2 Reproduction of The Oaks, a 1673 Norman church with rusticated coved doorway SB landing Original barrack blocks, Country meets town, UD:SL place, LW:NB Place of entertainment VT:PH 16 Cambridge Rd 55 BC Detached house

The Beach Semi-detached house CE Road Mill Hill Attached house Gladstone Rd JH 24 Terraced house 29 Work of engineering Archery Square 30-42 Baptist, Notable resident/visitor Nave of flint, Mathematical tiles, Late Victorian Gothic, Gothic loggia, A haven of peace, Half-timbering, Dover Road Private ’50s accommodation, An old Edwardian, VT:41-43 Neo-Norman, VT:ST Castellated lunettes, 3C Muscular railway hotel, VT:SEH 1904, gardens UW:OSM UW:FH UW:SH UW:275 LW:20 LW:22 by J Wills Clarence Rd LW:NB Turnpike road, 1790s

UPPER WALMER (UW) Joseph LOWER WALMER (LW) South and Cavalry Barracks < of life. The Timeball Tower, one of only three left in and the < yellow-brown brickwork, arcuated doorways and soldier (cambered) 32 Lister The old hilltop village of Walmer lived here, SB South Barracks by James Johnson of sole remnant of Deal’s old naval yard, is as plain as anything but ripe for a arches all appear, by the town hall, in Duke Street and elsewhere. The Water tower The Strand and nearby the government’s Barracks Department, Alex. Rd 1908–12 refit and a renewed sense of purpose. (Its sole party piece, which it does hall shows an extended vocabulary in its use of the Serlian motif and the WC Walmer Court, 1720, once the home standing 33 m CH Former bathing establishment where 1795–6. An early example of its type, it of George Leith, Lord of the Manor above sea level bathing machines could be hired to take comprises a central Officers’ Mess, an very well when floodlit, is to rise and then gently fall at the start of each Doric order; while 45 Middle Street (NE:45) has the refined look of a GC WCL Brick and flint lodge with Leith crest, you in private to the water’s edge, 1878 astylar pedimented building with a clock new year). superior London house of the period. Architect-designed houses for c.1840. Tithe cottages west of railway SSH Substantial semi-detached houses for tower similar to the one at Chatham, and Pedestrian, in more ways than one, is the High Street that could be retired naval officers and the like were to exhibit the full flowering of FMH An enchanting ruin of a moated WP the barrack’s senior staff, in yellow brick, two flanking buildings, each housing an St Richard’s Road A touch of Nash, Dutch styling, On the Beach, 1850 Officers’ Mess, anywhere, lacking any local character and making little effort to Romantic Classicism. In particular Leelands, in Upper Walmer, suggests Norman semi-fortified house in Caen modillion corniced and mansarded, c1812 infantry battalion. Ancillary buildings UW:LL LW:30-42 LW:29 WPP LW:SB acknowledge that it’s in a conservation area. The carpark to its east is no the influence of Nash. The Picturesque man of taste created the odd stone; for Hugh d’ Auberville, early C12 22 A creditable Old English effort by local include a coach house (a) and a OSM Old St Mary with a nave of flint and Marke Wood man George Denne, 1902 gymnasium or cookhouse (b) better. Its layout could have followed the pattern of alleys that criss- cottage orné; Gothic House (UW:275) being a good example. recreational At the end of the Napoleonic Wars Deal’s economy slumped and was a richly embellished Norman chancel arch; ground, 1927 SP The Rolling Stones played in the Strand CB Cavalry Barracks by J Johnson and crossed the area in earlier times and the jagged rears of surrounding for Hugh d’ Auberville, 1120. John Soane Old coach road Palais, now a retail store, on 5 Sept 1963 J Sanders, 1791or4. One of only four still buildings reworked and beautified. Pierhead, carpark and town would then worsened further by the new steamships that were able to go around the prepared designs to enlarge the church Une fontaine Petrol 45 Delicately-handled shopfront, c1900? remaining from the first army barrack- coast of whatever the wind direction. Luckily, from the opening of Kingsdown Road be integrated and a feeling of history restored. Instead a state of for Lord Liverpool, 1811. Unexecuted. Wallace, repr 23 Old Boatmans’ Reading Rooms, 1873 building campaign, it comprises a stable disconnection exists. The treatment of South Street is equally unimagina- the railway in 1847, tourists flocked to Deal. A pier was built and parades FH Timber house with a mathematically RS Former ‘Rocket Station’ where heavily- block for one hundred cavalrymen and tiled front (with its tell-tale corner strips) Salisbury Rd laden carts of life-saving rockets were kept their mounts tive. A rare instance in Britain of a wide street that isn’t a marketplace, it laid out, and on the site of the old Naval Yard a new residential district and curiously flattened bow windows, C18 20 ‘Rus in urbe’, bargeboard dated 1850 cries out for sensitive development as a quarter that celebrates its role featured a grand railway-owned hotel. In its vigour and boldness, the

275 Gothic House, a Picturesque Liverpool Road East Barracks as entry and departure point to the town. Recent road and pavement hotel was almost High Victorian in feel. By the second half of the Movement cottage with an arcaded loggia , with Devey’s domed polygonal Italianate pile, Modernist flats, Dover Road to The Beach EB Barrack block, by Navy Board architect turret breaking the skyline, 3C Decorative 183 LW:WP LW:GC alterations have sadly done little to improve the character of this ‘square’. nineteenth century the hegemony of Romantic Classicism in England was

featuring three pointed barrel vaults set Copyright Christopher Lumgair 2015 6-8 Tile-hung Arts and Crafts cottages, Edward Holl, with an astylar elevation 365 gable end The crass apartment block overlooking Deal Castle, on land that was long over. Buildings in the outlying areas of the town now referenced between projecting wings. Possibly formerly coach houses/stables, 1884–5 feet long. It was built in stages (1812–15) remodelled from earlier house, 1760; 13 Home of John Lewis Roget, gentleman on the foundations of a hospital built once part of the Naval Yard, marks the site of a ballsy, High Victorian many styles, including Arts and Crafts in its various modes, Queen Anne, 1824, since enlarged Sedate Old English, UW draughtsman. House, c1840 twenty-two years earlier by George Leith. hotel by James Brooks (better known for the many churches he designed Neo-Gothic and Italianate. Many of Deal’s idiosyncratic bargeboards date Sydney Road Lawn Rd Granville Road 277 The Rattling Cat, an old inn fabled for Parking 16 Charming late Regency villa, one of At its rear, from north to south, is a coach in London). A much loved amenity, its destruction irrevocably altered the from this period, carved one imagines by local boat builders. Deal to Dover Drum Hill its secret passage to the sea where a cat 228 Old Lawn Estate many that front the sea here, some with and cookhouse, both c1815 (a and b); a railway line, 9, Old Leelands spirit of the town. The twentieth century saw much expansion and infilling including with a tin can tied to its tail was heard to Site of private gardens on the green sward dispensory and stables, c1900 (c and d); 1881 Walmer Site of On a more positive note. Crown Court, a lovely warren of close-knit 17th- construction of balconied villas along the Marina and elsewhere. scamper, 1700 WCL The Shubbery The Lawn 30-42 Queen Anne Row, an elegant two halls occupied by bootmakers, tailors Court where George III’s 228 Holly Cottage, once the home of FMH Church Street Walmer Castle Road 70 terrace featuring a massive curved gable and such like, 1860s (e and g) a morgue, and 18th-century houses, is a exemplar of intelligent high-density housing. Architects worked in a range of Historicist modes; the Postal Sorting WC daughter lived 26-28 Admiral William ‘Buffalo’ Boys, C19 Court Road end; built for genteel ladies, 1928 c1815 (f) and houses, 1800s (h). The old The barrack complexes in their scale and layout are also impressive. The Office is appropriately Flemish and Walmer Place Italianate, whilst Line Castle Meadows Bridge over , 9 Captain Lee’s house. Soane designed Walmer Old St Mary 32 Villa built for one of Wellington’s operating room still features its radiating neoclassical North (infantry) Barracks and its ’60s additions are long Generals Meadow is Arts and Crafts manorial. The latter, like so many of moat 275 LW:3C an extension to a Walmer Cottage for Lee Station OSM Old Shrubbery Estate commanders with some nice balconies, 1835 stone slabs (i) gone. All that’s left are a few of the original officers’ houses and a large residences in Deal and Walmer was used during First as in 1811, since altered (not 215 Dover Rd) JH John Hassall, ‘The Poster King’, was FH gatehouse. It’s as if the barracks never existed. It was only by luck that I a hospital. Between the wars the Dutch influence persisted in houses built 26-28 Wellesley House, home of the 277 UPPER WALMER Pillbox, 1940 born hereabouts in 1868 THE THREE CASTLES GM Generals Meadow, Lutyensian, stumbled upon a photograph showing how the Regency buildings looked; in Archery Square for widows of servicemen killed in action. Social Duke of Wellington prior to 1808, and UW St Clare Estate GC 1-9 Guilford Court, Modernist flats by 3C Low-profile moated Tudor device-forts birthplace of novelist Dornford Yates, 1885 16th-century vernacular. A largish St Mary’s Road AN James Miller & Partners, c1966 of similar design, 1539–40, by Stefan von three plain squat blocks linked by an arcade. housing is exemplified by a self-sufficient colliery estate on Mill Hill. Parking 70 Liverpool Cottage, a cottage orné with house with an irregular front elevation Sacred Site of Roselands St Mary 59 WP Site of Walmer Place, a substantial 15- Haschenperg. A central cylindrical The two Norman churches, Old St Mary in Upper Walmer and St Leonard Modernism arrived in the form of a villa in North Deal (ND:273) and a Gothick windows, a remodelling of an old and near symmetrical garden front, the Heart where Poet Robert SM Neo-Tudor bedroom Italianate pile with campanile, three-storey tower- is surrounded by a in Upper Deal are lovely and thankfully unspoilt. It would have been junction box by Deal station. Nor must one overlook the two shelters on farmhouse, –1844. Much altered latter with slightly projecting wings. An Bridges lived houses, C20 built for Dutchman Albert Ochs, 1901–2. series of semi-circular lunettes which Station Rd SH interesting to see what Old St Mary would have been like had John Beach Street, built in the 1950s but to a pleasing pre-war design. offset porch leads to a hallway that Convent wall provide platforms for guns. The tower’s SH Sacred Heart, a convent chapel with Old Roselands Estate Surviving pavilion and terrace (WPP) delicate window tracery, some patterned runs north-south to give access to Gram’s Lane Walmer ground floor accommodated the magazine Soane’s design for its enlargement been implemented. Deal suffered its share of damage in World War II; but the greatest GM Liverpool Rd Cottage conversion, polychromy and a tower that straddles the reception rooms overlooking The Glen. Thomson’s View of Castle, 3C North Barracks and storehouse; its upper floors accom- As for the two surviving castles: Deal Castle is a magnificent piece of threat to the survival of the old town was to come not from the Germans, Bell anchorage Old grounds of UW:59 pavement; by Peter Paul Pugin with For Sir Charles Sergeant by Sir Herbert Generals Meadow NB Site of North Barracks by James modated the garrison. Walmer’s domestic military design, more gun platform than castle, geometric in form and but from local councillors in league with developers. In 1947 the Deal Belmont St Clare’s Rd GH Cuthbert Pugin, design 1881 Baker (according to the owner), 1913 Terrace, C19 Improvements Johnson, 1795–1956 (when new quarters date from c.1730; its picturesque spare in its detailing, and a most potent expression of Tudor identity and Protection Society thwarted a plan to develop part of its lower section; LL Leelands (St Clare), stuccoed mansion, 59 Liverpool House, embodying Pitt’s accomodation blocks were added); a range composition is due to architect George LL to Walmer Castle resolve. Walmer Castle, a mile or so to the south, is just a few feet and a new society formed in 1964 succeeded in preventing the old set side on to the road, with an elaborate Cottage, –1830; a cottage conversion 364, Farmhouse, 1801 of three, equally-sized three-storey blocks Devey, who added the low tower with Former premises The Glen grounds, 1805 Published in 2015 by garden front that has a touch of Nash where guests of William Pitt and later linked by an arcade. In its plainness and turret, Dutch gable and other features to smaller in diameter than Deal’s but appears much bulkier on account of town's wholesale destruction, and its replacement with an incongruous of W & T Denne, Flâneur Guides, Deal, Kent about it, 1797?–; built for Norwegian Lord’s Warden stayed 1860s? Site of lack of heirarchy, it has a touch of the earlier castellated brick residence, its domestic quarters. If any building could be the jewel in for collection of buildings including, believe it or not, a skyscraper. An imprint of merchant Andrew Gram GH Glenhill, a Picturesque Movement Hawksdown Thompson’s Romantic Classicism about it. Originally 1863. Walmer Castle was for many years greater Deal, it must be this one, with its delightful Stuart apartments, Modern Deal has been ill served by developers, architects and builders Brewery Campbell Lumgair SM St Mary, worthy but dull Early English lodge built for Rev Francis Wollaston, built as a hospital, surviving ancillary the home of the Lord’s Warden of the picturesque tower and embellishments by proto-Arts and Crafts architect alike. Since the 1930s little has been built of merit or character. Deal’s exercise by Sir Arthur Blomfield, 1887–8 1830; ‘hunting lodge’-style west wing (A258) www.flaneurguides.com buildings include: officers’ stables and Cinque Ports including Lord North, William George Devey and gardens by , William Pitt’s pier café was recently replaced by an outstandingly imaginative structure. AN Elaborate Queen Anne Revival brick added in 1910 < Hawkshill Second edition – revised quarters (a and b); post room/gatehouse Pitt, Lord Liverpool and Wellington 393-397, resourceful niece. CCL One looks forward to other inspiring buildings of this quality.

Set in News Gothic Survey mapping, updated using original material. out-of-copyright Ordnance Plans derived from ornament on wing of house, 1900s c.1820 Domestic ‘survival’, UW:GM Picturesque lodge, UW:GH Down (c); prison (d); all c1820