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Contents

List of Maps vi

What’s New in 1

1 The Best of Rome 4 1 Frommer’s Favorite Rome 2 Best Hotel Bets ...... 9 Experiences ...... 5 3 Best Dining Bets ...... 12

2 A Traveler’s Guide to & Architecture 16 By Reid Bramblett

1 Art 101 ...... 16 2 Italian Architecture at a Glance ...... 20

3 Planning Your Trip to Rome 27

1 Visitor Information ...... 27 6 Health & Safety ...... 35 2 Entry Requirements & 7 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .36 Customs Regulations ...... 27 8 Planning Your Trip Online ...... 38 3 Money ...... 29 9 Getting There ...... 40 Foreign Currencies vs. 10 Packages for the Independent the U.S. Dollar ...... 30 Traveler ...... 46 4 When to Go ...... 32 11 Escorted General-Interest Rome Calendar of Events ...... 33 Tours ...... 46 5 Travel Insurance ...... 34 12 Recommended Books ...... 47

4 Getting to Know Rome 49

1 Essentials ...... 49 2 Getting Around ...... 57 The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .54 Fast Facts: Rome ...... 60 5 COPYRIGHTEDWhere to Stay in Rome MATERIAL 66 1 Near Stazione Termini ...... 67 6 Near & 2 Near Via & the ...... 83 Piazza Barberini ...... 73 7 Near the Vatican ...... 89 3 Near Ancient Rome ...... 77 8 In Trastevere ...... 93 4 Near Campo de’ Fiori ...... 79 9 In Parioli ...... 93 5 Near & 10 At the Airport ...... 94 the Pantheon ...... 80 02_572709 ftoc.qxd 11/18/04 2:59 PM Page iv

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6 Where to Dine in Rome 95 1 Restaurants by Cuisine ...... 98 7 Near Piazza Navona & 2 Near Stazione Termini ...... 101 the Pantheon ...... 111 Take a Gelato Break ...... 102 8 Near Piazza del Popolo & the Spanish Steps ...... 117 3 In San Lorenzo ...... 103 9 Near the Vatican ...... 122 4 Near Via Veneto & Piazza Barberini ...... 104 10 In Trastevere ...... 123 5 Near Ancient Rome ...... 105 11 In Testaccio ...... 126 Quick Bites ...... 107 12 In Parioli ...... 126 6 Near Campo de’ Fiori & 13 In Monte Mario ...... 127 the Jewish Ghetto ...... 108

7 Exploring Rome 128 Suggested Itineraries ...... 128 4 The Spanish Steps, the 1 St. Peter’s & the Vatican ...... 132 & Attractions Nearby ...... 159 Papal Audiences ...... 138 5 In the Villa Borghese ...... 163 2 The , the & Highlights of 6 The & Ancient Rome ...... 140 the Catacombs ...... 165 Hollywood on the Tiber ...... 146 Beneath It All: Touring Roma Sotteranea . . . . .166 Did You Know? ...... 152 7 More Attractions ...... 168 3 The Pantheon & Attractions Near Piazza Navona & 8 The Gardens of Rome ...... 174 Campo de’ Fiori ...... 153 9 Organized Tours ...... 174 913 Churches, 1 Synagogue: Jews in the Capital of Christendom ...... 156

8 Strolling Through Rome 176 Walking Tour 1: Rome of the Walking Tour 3: Renaissance Caesars ...... 176 Rome ...... 191 Walking Tour 2: The Heart of Walking Tour 4: Trastevere . . .198 Rome ...... 186

9 Shopping 203 1 The Shopping Scene ...... 203 One-of-a-Kind Shops ...... 214 2 Shopping A to Z ...... 206 02_572709 ftoc.qxd 11/18/04 2:59 PM Page v

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10 Rome After Dark 218 1 The Performing Arts ...... 218 2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . .219 Opera at the Baths of 3 The Cafe & Bar Scene ...... 223 Caracalla ...... 219

11 Side Trips from Rome 229 1 Tivoli & the Villas ...... 229 5 Fregene ...... 237 2 Palestrina ...... 232 6 Etruscan Historical Sights . . . . .238 3 The Castelli Romani ...... 233 7 Viterbo ...... 239 4 Ostia ...... 236

Appendix A: Rome in Depth 242 1 Rome Past & Present ...... 242 Dateline ...... 242

Appendix B: Molto Italiano 254 1 Basic Vocabulary ...... 254 3 Italian Menu Terms ...... 256 2 A Glossary of Architectural Terms ...... 255

Appendix C: Useful Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 260

Index 263

General Index ...... 263 Restaurant Index ...... 273 Accommodations Index ...... 272 Cafe Index ...... 273 03_572709 flast.qxd 11/18/04 2:59 PM Page vi

List of Maps

Rome Orientation 52 The Vatican 133 Rome Metropolitana 59 The Vatican Museums 135 Accommodations Near Stazione The Colosseum, the Forum & Termini, Via Veneto & Ancient Rome Attractions 141 Piazza Barberini 69 The Pantheon & Accommodations Near Campo de’ Nearby Attractions 155 Fiori & Piazza Navona 81 Attractions Near the Spanish Accommodations Near Piazza del Steps & Piazza del Popolo 161 Popolo & the Spanish Steps 85 Attractions Near Stazione Accommodations & Dining Near the Termini, Via Veneto & Vatican 91 Piazza Barberini 169 Dining Near Stazione Termini, Attractions in Trastevere 173 Via Veneto & Piazza Walking Tour: Rome of the Barberini 103 Caesars 177 Dining Near Campo de’ Fiori, Walking Tour: the Jewish Ghetto & The Heart of Rome 189 Piazza Navona 109 Walking Tour: Dining Near the Spanish Steps & Renaissance Rome 193 Ancient Rome 119 Walking Tour: Trastevere 201 Dining in Trastevere 125 Rome Shopping 205 Rome Attractions 130 Side Trips from Rome 231