02_572709 ftoc.qxd 11/18/04 2:59 PM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi What’s New in Rome 1 1 The Best of Rome 4 1 Frommer’s Favorite Rome 2 Best Hotel Bets . .9 Experiences . .5 3 Best Dining Bets . .12 2 A Traveler’s Guide to Roman Art & Architecture 16 By Reid Bramblett 1 Art 101 . .16 2 Italian Architecture at a Glance . .20 3 Planning Your Trip to Rome 27 1 Visitor Information . .27 6 Health & Safety . .35 2 Entry Requirements & 7 Specialized Travel Resources . .36 Customs Regulations . .27 8 Planning Your Trip Online . .38 3 Money . .29 9 Getting There . .40 Foreign Currencies vs. 10 Packages for the Independent the U.S. Dollar . .30 Traveler . .46 4 When to Go . .32 11 Escorted General-Interest Rome Calendar of Events . .33 Tours . .46 5 Travel Insurance . .34 12 Recommended Books . .47 4 Getting to Know Rome 49 1 Essentials . .49 2 Getting Around . .57 The Neighborhoods in Brief . .54 Fast Facts: Rome . .60 5 COPYRIGHTEDWhere to Stay in Rome MATERIAL 66 1 Near Stazione Termini . .67 6 Near Piazza del Popolo & 2 Near Via Veneto & the Spanish Steps . .83 Piazza Barberini . .73 7 Near the Vatican . .89 3 Near Ancient Rome . .77 8 In Trastevere . .93 4 Near Campo de’ Fiori . .79 9 In Parioli . .93 5 Near Piazza Navona & 10 At the Airport . .94 the Pantheon . .80 02_572709 ftoc.qxd 11/18/04 2:59 PM Page iv iv CONTENTS 6 Where to Dine in Rome 95 1 Restaurants by Cuisine . .98 7 Near Piazza Navona & 2 Near Stazione Termini . .101 the Pantheon . .111 Take a Gelato Break . .102 8 Near Piazza del Popolo & the Spanish Steps . .117 3 In San Lorenzo . .103 9 Near the Vatican . .122 4 Near Via Veneto & Piazza Barberini . .104 10 In Trastevere . .123 5 Near Ancient Rome . .105 11 In Testaccio . .126 Quick Bites . .107 12 In Parioli . .126 6 Near Campo de’ Fiori & 13 In Monte Mario . .127 the Jewish Ghetto . .108 7 Exploring Rome 128 Suggested Itineraries . .128 4 The Spanish Steps, the 1 St. Peter’s & the Vatican . .132 Trevi Fountain & Attractions Nearby . .159 Papal Audiences . .138 5 In the Villa Borghese . .163 2 The Colosseum, the Roman Forum & Highlights of 6 The Appian Way & Ancient Rome . .140 the Catacombs . .165 Hollywood on the Tiber . .146 Beneath It All: Touring Roma Sotteranea . .166 Did You Know? . .152 7 More Attractions . .168 3 The Pantheon & Attractions Near Piazza Navona & 8 The Gardens of Rome . .174 Campo de’ Fiori . .153 9 Organized Tours . .174 913 Churches, 1 Synagogue: Jews in the Capital of Christendom . .156 8 Strolling Through Rome 176 Walking Tour 1: Rome of the Walking Tour 3: Renaissance Caesars . .176 Rome . .191 Walking Tour 2: The Heart of Walking Tour 4: Trastevere . .198 Rome . .186 9 Shopping 203 1 The Shopping Scene . .203 One-of-a-Kind Shops . .214 2 Shopping A to Z . .206 02_572709 ftoc.qxd 11/18/04 2:59 PM Page v CONTENTS v 10 Rome After Dark 218 1 The Performing Arts . .218 2 The Club & Music Scene . .219 Opera at the Baths of 3 The Cafe & Bar Scene . .223 Caracalla . .219 11 Side Trips from Rome 229 1 Tivoli & the Villas . .229 5 Fregene . .237 2 Palestrina . .232 6 Etruscan Historical Sights . .238 3 The Castelli Romani . .233 7 Viterbo . .239 4 Ostia . .236 Appendix A: Rome in Depth 242 1 Rome Past & Present . .242 Dateline . .242 Appendix B: Molto Italiano 254 1 Basic Vocabulary . .254 3 Italian Menu Terms . .256 2 A Glossary of Architectural Terms . .255 Appendix C: Useful Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 260 Index 263 General Index . .263 Restaurant Index . .273 Accommodations Index . .272 Cafe Index . .273 03_572709 flast.qxd 11/18/04 2:59 PM Page vi List of Maps Rome Orientation 52 The Vatican 133 Rome Metropolitana 59 The Vatican Museums 135 Accommodations Near Stazione The Colosseum, the Forum & Termini, Via Veneto & Ancient Rome Attractions 141 Piazza Barberini 69 The Pantheon & Accommodations Near Campo de’ Nearby Attractions 155 Fiori & Piazza Navona 81 Attractions Near the Spanish Accommodations Near Piazza del Steps & Piazza del Popolo 161 Popolo & the Spanish Steps 85 Attractions Near Stazione Accommodations & Dining Near the Termini, Via Veneto & Vatican 91 Piazza Barberini 169 Dining Near Stazione Termini, Attractions in Trastevere 173 Via Veneto & Piazza Walking Tour: Rome of the Barberini 103 Caesars 177 Dining Near Campo de’ Fiori, Walking Tour: the Jewish Ghetto & The Heart of Rome 189 Piazza Navona 109 Walking Tour: Dining Near the Spanish Steps & Renaissance Rome 193 Ancient Rome 119 Walking Tour: Trastevere 201 Dining in Trastevere 125 Rome Shopping 205 Rome Attractions 130 Side Trips from Rome 231.