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The Best of Panama

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The Best of Panama 04_048900 ch01.qxp 11/16/06 9:17 PM Page 1 1 The Best of Panama For such a thin squiggle of land, Panama offers travelers a surprisingly diverse selec- tion of landscapes, cultures, and experiences. In Panama City alone, modern skyscrap- ers contrast with 18th-century architecture, and a 10-minute cab ride from downtown puts you deep in rainforest teeming with wildlife. From the cool, fertile highlands in the Chiriquí region to the thick lowland jungle and white-sand beaches of Panama’s tropical islands, this tiny nation allows you to pack a lot of fun and adventure into a short period of time. Also, unlike Costa Rica, its more popular neighbor, Panama boasts a rich history and a melting pot of cultures, including seven indigenous groups, many of whom maintain their customs today. Best of all, the country is gloriously free of tourists—but get here soon because Panama is far too attractive to be kept a secret for long. The following is a list of the best that Panama has to offer, including hotels, natu- ral areas, adventures, restaurants, and more, but expect new places to appear soon as tourism explodes and more travelers discover this fascinating crossroads of the world. 1 The Best of Natural Panama • Metropolitan Park (Panama City): creating a hyper-diverse natural won- Panama City is the only metropolis derland. A series of nature trails here that boasts a tropical rainforest include the historic Camino de within its city limits. Travelers with Cruces, which links the two coasts, as ample time will want to visit national well as the famous Pipeline Road, a parks like Soberanía, but there’s no trail revered by bird-watchers for the denying the appeal of hopping in a more than 500 species of birds that cab and, within 10 minutes, exchang- live in the area. See p. 140. ing the city streets for a steamy jungle • Volcán Barú National Park (Chiriquí teeming with wildlife. See p. 121. Highlands): The rugged, 3,505m • Soberanía National Park (near (11,500-ft.) Barú Volcano, the highest Panama City): This national park is point in the country, is this national very accessible from Panama City— park’s centerpiece and a “bioclimatic just 40COPYRIGHTED minutes by car—yet it feels island.” MATERIAL It’s home to a wild, dense rain- worlds away. The undulating, pristine forest packed with bamboo gardens rainforest that defines Soberanía is and towering trees dripping with vines protected in part because it acts as a and sprouting bromeliads and orchids watershed that provides the water to from their trunks and branches. In keep the canal in operation. What’s higher reaches, an intermittent cloud unique about the park is that wildlife forest evokes an eerie, prehistoric species from North and South Amer- ambience. The park is very popular ica and migratory birds meet here, with bird-watchers, who come to 04_048900 ch01.qxp 11/16/06 9:17 PM Page 2 2 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PANAMA glimpse the famous resplendent quet- of colorful macaws, among other zal. One of the most enjoyable full-day showcase species, but you’ll need to hikes in Panama is here along the join a tour and grab a chartered flight Quetzal Trail, which links the towns of to the Cana Field Station. See p. 293. Guadalupe/Cerro Punta with Boquete, • Isla Coiba National Park (Chiriquí and the crystalline rivers that descend Gulf): Formerly the site of an infa- from the volcano provide thrilling mous penal colony for Panama’s white-water rafting. On a clear day, worst criminals, Isla Coiba is now an hikers can see both oceans from the untouched paradise for divers, summit of the volcano. See p. 230. snorkelers, and nature lovers. The • La Amistad International Park national park and UNESCO World (Chiriquí Highlands): Like Isla Heritage Site protects 38 pristine Coiba, UNESCO rated this park a islands and marine waters so rich in World Heritage Site because it is one diversity that the area is commonly of the most biodiverse regions in the referred to as the Galápagos Islands of Americas. The park is “international” Panama. Isla Coiba boasts the sec- because half of it is in Costa Rica, and ond-largest coral reef in the eastern it’s managed by both nations. Char- Pacific, and its waters teem with huge acterized by virgin forests, La Amis- schools of colorful fish, hammerhead tad’s rugged Talamanca Range is and nurse sharks, dolphins, manta home to more than 400 species of rays, tuna, turtles, whales, and other birds and 100 species of mammals, gigantic marine species—even salt- many of them endangered. The park water crocodiles. See p. 248. is mostly inaccessible, except near • The Kuna Yala Comarca: This trop- Cerro Punta, where there are several ical island paradise, with more than outstanding walking trails suitable for 350 idyllic islands and islets ringed in all ability levels, and enjoyable rain or white sand, coral gardens, and man- shine. See p. 222. grove swamps, is often populated • The Darién Wilderness (Darién with not much more than slender Province): This tremendous swath of coconut palms and a few thatch- forest and swampland is considered roofed huts of the Kuna indigenous to be one of the last untouched community. Given the lack of mod- wilderness regions in the Americas. ern development in the region, the Even the Darién National Park is views here are not marred by tower- largely inaccessible, and the sur- ing hotels and resorts, allowing the rounding wilderness is so thick that natural beauty of the Comarca to the “missing link” of the Pan-Ameri- shine through. Along the coast, some can Highway, known as the Darién of Panama’s wildest jungle can be Gap, is here. If you like your nature explored on hikes arranged by local ruggedly wild and remote, this is your tour guides, but most visitors come place. The Darién is rated as a world- just to soak in the warm breeze and class bird-watching site for its flocks cool turquoise waters. See p. 282. 2 The Best Beaches In spite of the hundreds of kilometers of rounding Panama City is mud flats; far- coastline on both the Caribbean Sea and ther west the sand is dark and the water Pacific Ocean, Panama’s beaches are less dirty-green until you reach the pretty than noteworthy. The coastal area sur- beaches at Santa Clara and Farallón. The 04_048900 ch01.qxp 11/16/06 9:17 PM Page 3 THE BEST BEACHES 3 Azuero Peninsula and parts of the Carib- • Santa Clara & Farallón, Pacific bean coast are, sadly, receptacles for trash Coast: These two are the most beau- carried by currents from South America tiful beaches, and the best for swim- and beyond. There are a few exceptions, ming, that lie within a 2-hour drive but to find glorious tropical beaches, you’ll of Panama City. The beaches’ water is need to visit Panama’s islands. There are bluer and the sand cleaner and whiter more than 1,000 on the Pacific Side and a that of its neighbors closer to the city. little more than half that number on the The Decameron Resort produces Caribbean, so you have a lot to choose throngs of beachgoers at Farallón, but from. A word of caution: Panama is for the most part this long stretch of renowned for its riptides. No matter how sand sees few crowds outside of week- refreshing the water looks, analyze condi- ends. Self-catering cabins, midrange tions, stay out of choppy water, or head to bungalows, and seafood restaurants a beach known for calm water. are abundant. See p. 181. • Comarca Kuna Yala: This is the pre- • Las Perlas Archipelago: Despite this mier beach destination in Panama, Pacific archipelago’s proximity to with 350 islands scattered off the Panama City, its top-notch snorkel- Caribbean coast that offer picture- ing, white-sand beaches, and calm- postcard beaches with powdery white water swimming conditions, the Pearl sand, coral reef, piercing turquoise Islands are a relatively unsung beach water, and clusters of swaying palm destination. Outside of holidays and trees. The colorful Kuna indigenous the hard-core summer, you won’t find population administers this province, crowds here, even during weekends. and their fascinating culture is part of It’s also drier here during the rainy the reason to visit the region, too. season. Isla Contadora offers lodg- The glitch is that scuba diving is pro- ing and day trips for fabulous snor- hibited, and lodging is mostly Robin- keling and visits to uninhabited son Crusoe rustic, but all you’ll want beaches, and there is a luxury lodge, to do here anyway is swim, sun, and Hacienda San José, on Isla San José. swing in a hammock. See p. 282. • Isla Coiba National Park: Beyond • Isla Bastimentos National Park, ranking as Panama’s number-one div- Bocas del Toro: Cayos Zapatillas, or ing site, Isla Coiba National Park the “Slippers Islands” (so-called boasts fine beaches backed by dense because they resemble footprints), jungle. Tiny islands such as Granito not only fulfill the beach lover’s fan- de Oro are so idyllic that midsize tasy with their soft sand backed by a cruise ships make a stop here (which tangle of jungle; they are also sur- could spoil your day if you’re here rounded by a rich display of coral independently). Even the beach that attracts hordes of fish, providing fronting the park station seems too good snorkeling. The park’s main perfect to be true. See p.
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