Greece - the Pelicans of Lake Kerkini

Greece - The Pelicans of Lake Kerkini

Naturetrek Tour Report 18 - 25 May 2008

Dalmatian Pelican Lake Kerkini

Rose-coloured Starlings

Report compiled by Philip Thompson and David Morris. Images by David Morris

Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Greece - The Pelicans of Lake Kerkini

Tour Leaders: Philip Thompson David Morris

Participants: Trevor Best Sarah Best David Mees Margaret Mees Trevor Macklin Judith Macklin Derek Harwood Shirley Harwood Deryn Hutchins Sue Jackson Sue Bradshaw

Day 1 Sunday 18th May

After all the group had been gathered together at Thessaloniki airport we set off for the short hour and a half transfer to the Hotel Erodios in Lithotopus which was to be our base for the duration of the trip. On arrival in Lithotopuswe had our first glimpse of the lake and were immediately presented with close views of both Dalmatian and White Pelicans, and both night and Squacco Herons. Numerous Little Egrets lined the lake shore and large numbers of Great Cormorants and Great Crested Grebes were on the lake. We drove up to the hotel, which sits in a commanding position with wonderful views across to the lake and the surrounding mountains. Then we were assigned to our rooms and had time to freshen up before dinner.

Day 2 Monday 19th May

For our first day we set off round the earth embankment from the dam wall and onto the eastern shores. It was immediately apparent how common the Olivaceous Warblers were, as they could be heard singing from all around with one or two showing well from the tops of bushes. We had our first Spanish Sparrows from bushes close to the track. It was, however, the lake birds that drew our immediate attention on this initial excursion. The Cormorants and Great Crested Grebes were ever present in large numbers on the open lake alongside the Night and Squacco Herons on the water’s edge.

The landward side of the embankment had numerous Bee-eaters perching and hawking for insects alongside several large flocks of passage Rose-coloured Starlings, some of which dropped into the trees and bushes by the lake edge. As we proceeded round the lake the open water gave way to floating lily beds. Here we found a large breeding colony of Whiskered Terns which were very busy and active; also a small flotilla of five handsome Black-necked Grebes and a few dabchicks. Among the gulls, which are mainly Yellow-legged, was a flock of 20 juvenile Mediterranean and small numbers of Black-headed.

We stopped for our first picnic lunch at a shady site, where Tree Sparrows, Black-headed Wagtail and Hoopoe were seen by the group as lunch was prepared.

Greece - The Pelicans of Lake Kerkini Tour Report

Leaving the lake we drove on to the northern side of the Strimonas River and took a short walk to some disused carp ponds. Here we had good views of Great Reed Warblers and Spoonbill. Our main target here was the Little Bitterns and Purple Herons that breed here, and they provided short views as they flew over the reeds.

Next was a short excursion up Ruppell’s Gorge which acts as a corridor for birds moving north in spring during passage periods. Due to the lateness of the season, and less than ideal weather, little was seen on the move. A distant Short-toed Eagle drifted over the surrounding hills as well as a couple of Ravens. Of botanical interest were the huge flowering Dragon Arums (Dracunculus vulgaris) giving off their delightful ‘dead animal’ aroma, which was proving irresistible to the local flies.

Our final stop for the day was to a disused quarry in the Kerkini hills where we found several Black-eared Wheatear, Blue Rock Thrush and best of all the breeding Rock Nuthatch seen near its mud nest which was plastered under an overhanging rock. Below the quarry were Cirl Buntings, Red-backed Shrike and our first tortoise of the trip, which was identified as a Spur-thighed.

Day 3 Tuesday 20th May

A pre-breakfast trip was taken up a dirt track, which led into the hills on the western side of the lake, during which we saw our first Masked Shrike of the holiday along with Red-backed and Woodchat Shrikes. Several singing Black-headed Buntings were also evident.

After breakfast and a slightly earlier start we headed east in the direction of Sidirockastro. In the hills nearby we stopped and scanned across to a rock face where Long-legged Buzzards were known to breed. Sure enough, despite the false alarm of a couple of local Common Buzzards, we didn’t have long to wait before one bird drifted over towards the nest area and then away, followed a little later on by another bird landing on the rock face that we watched through our various scopes. As an added bonus at this spot there was a large flock of Rose- coloured Starlings gathered in the trees below us, plus another Masked Shrike.

We then continued eastwards into rolling hilly country seeing a Little Owl on the way. We stopped and took a walk in an area of scrubby woodland in a shallow gorge in the hope of seeing some warblers and woodpeckers, but birdlife was pretty quiet. We did, however, find our first Hermann’s Tortoise and Pink Butterfly Orchid (Orchis papillonaceae). While returning to the vehicles we spotted a Golden Eagle passing over us. It was mobbed by a couple of buzzards, which were dwarfed by the eagle!

Picnic was taken during the heat of the day at another pleasant shady spot which had fresh spring water.

Next we headed up Ruppell’s Gorge on the main road towards the Bulgarian border to a wood near Promochonas. Here we sought out a Syrian Woodpecker and found a nesting site of Middle-spotted Woodpecker as well as Wood Warbler, Spotted Flycatcher, Collared Flycatcher and, on the edge of the wood, another Masked Shrike. On our return to the hotel we had a Steppe Buzzard overhead showing the diagnostic rusty tail.

2 © Naturetrek September 08

Greece - The Pelicans of Lake Kerkini Tour Report

Day 4 Wednesday 21st May

Today we returned to the lake to explore the western shore, which is markedly different to the eastern one, as here the lake is flanked by the Mavrouni hills. At our first stop we had noticed several Golden Oriole in the poplar plantations and these were seen by the whole group. Drifting over the hills were several Black Kites, Booted Eagle, our first Lesser Spotted Eagle and another Golden Eagle. Not to be outdone, a male Levant Sparrowhawk swooped out of the surrounding woods giving good, if brief, close views.

Around the lake itself we had good numbers of both species of pelicans and 40+ Pygmy Cormorants, as well as good numbers of herons and egrets. In a sheltered bay there was a pair of Garganey along with several loafing pelicans. In the scrubby hills behind, several Cirl Buntings were heard and seen and one elusive Ortolan Bunting sang and put in a brief appearance. Our first Black Stork drifted overhead.

We continued round the lake before heading into the northern hills to the village of Ano Porroia for a picnic lunch in the shade then some of the group followed this with a coffee at the nearby taverna. Most of the group then took a walk up into the wooded hills where we came across an abundance of grazing Hermann’s Tortoises and Europe’s largest moth, the large Peacock Moth. Climbing higher we found a Semi-collared Flycatcher among the canopy.

To end the day, as planned, we were then to travel east to Mandraki and its taverna under the 600-year-old Plane tree, but not before encountering the mystery of the vanishing road out of Ano Porroia. For some unaccountable reason we couldn’t find the road out of the village that we had used to arrive there, despite repeated searching – it’s only a little village after all! So, by a different route, we made our way back to the main road and on to Mandraki. Again our plans were foiled, by the weather this time – soon after our arrival the heavens opened letting out torrential rain and hail and our hoped for relaxing coffee overlooking the lake had to be curtailed.

Day 5 Thursday 22nd May

Our customary pre-breakfast walk was taken by the river below the dam wall. It proved to be a rather quiet morning with little of note seen.

After breakfast we set out on our longest excursion of the trip to Mount Vrondous and the Lailias ski resort. After safely negotiating our way through Serres we then started the slow steady ascent towards the mountain top at around 1,900 metres. A Red Squirrel was seen as it crossed the road ahead by those in the lead vehicle. At our first stop at the ski centre we had a couple of Crossbills, Crested and Coal Tits and Black Redstart. We then made our way downhill in the vehicles, before stopping for another foray around some open rocky ground. Here we had excellent views of a pair of Rock Thrush, Northern Wheatear and Red-backed Shrike as well as numerous Scotch Argus butterflies.

We then took our picnic in the peace and solitude of the wonderful scenery there. A further walk in the pine woods lower down was rather quiet but was enlivened by the sighting of a local pack of feral dogs pursuing a Roe Deer through the forest!

Greece - The Pelicans of Lake Kerkini Tour Report

Day 6 Friday 23rd May

For our pre-breakfast trip we returned to the eastern shore to check the marshy ditches behind the lake embankment. Here we managed to connect with several Penduline Tits which showed well in the reeds and overhanging trees for the whole party.

For this morning’s trip we visited some pools alongside a small tributary of the Strimonas River. We found a singing Olive Tree Warbler there, which remained hidden within cover before flying out, giving a brief and unsatisfactory view. We then parked at a quarry further down the track where we took a walk. Within the quarry was a couple of Black-eared Wheatear. On the river itself we finally found our first wader species in the form of a Little Ringed Plover. The surrounding woodland contained another Masked Shrike and a Subalpine Warbler.

We then took our picnic by the river before travelling north again to explore the dirt road on the western lake side. There were abundant butterflies including numerous Nettle-tree Butterflies coming to the wet mud by the track side at one point, with many more further up the track. The hoped for soaring raptors over the hills failed to materialise so we chose to return to Mandraki taverna, as by now it was very hot. We were then able to enjoy the lake view while supping a frappe coffee to see out the remainder of the day. We also spotted another Levant Sparrowhawk from the taverna terrace.

Day 7 Saturday 24th May

We returned to the Strimonas tributary for another crack at the Olive-tree Warbler before breakfast. This did not show up, but we did see a small group of six Little Ringed Plover on the river and a Little Owl fast asleep in the sun on the far bank. Continuing on to the quarry we saw four Golden Orioles in one bush. We then picked up on a growing group of Hooded Crows and a Raven, which was showing a great deal of interest and mobbing something on the cliff face opposite the quarry. Unfortunately we were unable to see what, although we had a good idea what it might be!

After breakfast and before leaving the hotel we were fortunate enough to witness large numbers of both pelicans taking off from the lake and catching the rising air, hitting the dam wall and then soaring and drifting right overhead in a fabulous display fully living up to their top billing on the tour. We then retraced our steps along the western shores stopping occasionally before arriving at Kerkini village – we visited the information centre there, which had been opened for our benefit! From there we went on to a local taverna for a traditional Greek lunch before embarking on our boat trip to the drowned forest and cormorant breeding colony.

As we set out across the lake we came upon a huge flock of Great Crested Grebes numbering several hundred which were unseen from the lake shore. Among them a single Black-necked Grebe was picked out. As we approached the drowned forest it became apparent in what huge numbers the Cormorants breed here. We then drifted among the colony noticing numerous Grey Heron, Spoonbill and Night Heron among them. We also encountered a large flock of White Pelican which we managed to approach closely. A nice bonus bird seen now was an Eleonora’s Falcon pursuing a Night Heron across the lake! The weather was once again to play its part when a squall of rain came over, forcing us to take shelter by the shore until it passed.

Greece - The Pelicans of Lake Kerkini Tour Report

We then had to return to Kerkini a little prematurely due to the weather and engine problems; this prevented us from approaching the pelican breeding platforms which could be seen in the distance. This boat trip still remains a fitting climax to the trip to Lake Kerkini and its wildlife.

Day 8 Sunday 25th May

Because we had a later flight than usual for this trip, on our final day we decided to take a last pre-breakfast trip to the quarry south of Lithotopus to see if our hunch about the mobbing crows and raven was correct. We climbed up above the quarry to obtain a better view and then spotted an Eagle Owl flying from one side to land in the woods opposite. On returning to the quarry floor two members of the group had managed to find where the owl had landed and we got great views through the scopes. Such was the interest from other members when told at breakfast that a second run was made to see the bird – it was still in the same tree. A fantastic bird to end on before our departure for the airport!

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Greece - The Pelicans of Lake Kerkini Tour Report

Species Lists

Birds (A=abundant; C=common; H=heard) May Common name Scientific name 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 1 Red-throated Diver Gavia stellata 1 1 1 2 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 2 2 1 6 3 Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus A A A A A A A A 4 Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis 7 1 5 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo A A A A A A A A 6 Pygmy Cormorant Phalacrocorax pygmaus 12 40 A 6 20 7 Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus philippensis 20 30 30 50 A 150 200 12 8 White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus 12 30 30 50 A 150 300 10 9 Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus 4 1 10 Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax C C C C C C C C 11 Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides C C C C C 12 Little Egret Egretta garzetta C C C C C C C 13 Grey heron Ardea cinerea C C C C C C C C 14 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea 4 15 Black Stork Ciconia nigra 2 1 3 16 White Stork Ciconia ciconia A A A A A A A A 17 Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia 20 10 2 8 30 18 Mute Swan Cygnus olor 1 19 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos 4 6 20 8 20 Pintail Anas acuta 2 21 Garganey Anas querquedula 2 1 22 Black Kite Milvus migrans 4 6 20 8 23 Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus 1 1 2 24 Sparrowhawk Accipter nisus 1 1 25 Levant Sparrowhawk Accipter brevipes 1 3 26 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo 8 12 2 6 2 3 27 Steppe Buzzard B. buteo ssp. vulpinus 1 28 Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus 2 29 Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina 1 1 30 Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos 1 1 31 Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus 2 2 5 3 32 Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 4 1 1 33 Eleanora's Falcon Falco eleonorae 1 34 Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 3 6 2 2 4 35 Coot Fulica atra 12 20 C 2 C 36 Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius 2 6 37 Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus 20 C C 6 38 Mediterranean Gull Larus melanocephalus 20 39 Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans 40 20 C C C 10 40 Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica 1 41 Common Tern Sterna hirundo 6 2 4 C C 100 42 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus 50 43 Feral Pigeon Columba livia C C C C C C C C 44 Woodpigeon Columba palumbus 4 4 1 2 2 45 Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto C C C C C C C C 46 Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur 12 C 3 20 50

Greece - The Pelicans of Lake Kerkini Tour Report

May Common name Scientific name 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 47 Cuckoo Cuculus canorus 2 1 6 3 6 3 48 Scops Owl Otus scops 1 49 Little Owl Athene noctua 2 2 2 1 50 Eagle Owl Bubo bubo 1 51 Common Swift Apus apus 6 2 2 3 52 Alpine Swift Apus melba 2 2 53 Kingfisher Alcedo atthis 1 2 1 54 Bee-eater Merops apiaster 40 4 12 6 20 30 55 Roller Coracias garrulus 1 1 56 Hoopoe Upupa epops 6 4 1 H 2 6 57 Middle Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos medius 3 58 Syrian Woodpecker Dendrocopos syriacus 1 1 1 1 59 Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major 2 2 1 60 Green Woodpecker Picus viridis 1 61 Crested lark Galerida cristata 10 C C C C C 62 Woodlark Lullula arborea H 2 63 Sand Martin Riparia riparia 10 2 12 64 Swallow Hirundo rustica C C C C C C C C 65 Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica 6 6 6 12 10 20 66 House Martin Delichon urbica C C C C C C C C 67 Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis 2 68 Black-headed Wagtail Motacilla flava feldegg 6 1 2 69 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea H 4 1 4 4 70 White Wagtail Motacilla alba 2 2 4 2 1 71 Robin Erithacus rubecula 2 1 72 Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos 1+ 1+ 2 H 2+ 2+ 73 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros 1 74 Stonechat Saxicola torquata 1 75 Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe 2 76 Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica 3 2 2 2 3 77 Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis 2 78 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius 2 1 79 Blackbird Turdus merula 2 C C 1 2 2 80 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus 3 81 Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti H H H H 82 Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus 2 2 83 Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus 6 H 6 H 6 H 84 Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida 12 C C C C 85 Olive-tree Warbler Hippolais olivetorum 1 86 Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans 1 87 Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala 2 88 Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca 1 89 Whitethroat Sylvia communis 1 1 90 Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla 1+ 2 1+ 91 Bonelli's Warbler Phylloscopus bonelli 1 1 92 Wood Warbler Phylloscopus sibilatrix 1 93 Firecrest Regulus ignicapillus H 94 Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita H 95 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata 1 2 96 Collared Flycatcher Ficedula albicollis 2 97 Semi-collared Flycatcher Ficedula semitorquata 1

Greece - The Pelicans of Lake Kerkini Tour Report

May Common name Scientific name 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 98 Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus 1 6 4 99 Blue Tit Parus caeruleus C C C 100 Great Tit Parus major 2 C C C C C 101 Crested Tit Parus cristatus 2 102 Marsh Tit Parus palustris H 103 Coal Tit Parus ater 6 104 Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus 5 3 105 Nuthatch Sitta europaea 6 2 1 106 Rock Nuthatch Sitta neumayer 2 107 Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla 1 H 108 Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus H 2+ 8 H 1+ 10 109 Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio 2 6 4 6 2+ 5 110 Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor 2 3 1 111 Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator 4 1 1 2 112 Masked Shrike Lanius nubicus 4 1 1 113 Jay Garrulus glandarius 1 C C C C C 114 Magpie Pica pica C C C C C C C C 115 Jackdaw Corvus monedula C C C C C C C C 116 Hooded Crow Corvus corone cornix C C C C C C C C 117 Raven Corvus corax 1 2 4 1 2 118 Starling Sturnus vulgaris C C C C C C C C 119 Rose-coloured Starling Sturnus roseus 150 150 10 30 50 60 24 120 House Sparrow Passer domesticus C C C C C C C C 121 Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis 4 6 C C 122 Tree Sparrow Passer montanus 6 1 2 3 1 123 Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs H 4 6 C 1 H 124 Serin Serinus serinus H 6 125 Greenfinch Carduelis chloris 2 1 126 Linnet Carduelis cannabina 12 2 2 127 Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes 1 1 1 6 128 Crossbill Loxia curvirostra 2 129 Rock Bunting Emberiza cia 3 130 Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus 3 6 4 6 6 4 131 Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana 1+ H 2 132 Black-headed Bunting Emberiza melanocephala 6 10 6 2 6 2 133 Corn Bunting Miliaria calandra 2 3 6 2 6 4

Reptiles & amphibians 1 Common Toad Bufo bufo 5 European Pond Terrapin Emys orbicularis 2 Greek Marsh Frog Rana balcanica 6 Turkish Gecko Hemidactylus turcicus 3 Hermann's Tortoise Testudo hermanni 7 Balkan Green Lizard Lacerta trilineata 4 Spur-thighed Tortoise Testudo graeca

Greece - The Pelicans of Lake Kerkini Tour Report

Butterflies 1 Scarce Swallowtail Iphiclides podalirius 15 Peacock Butterfly Inachis io 2 Eastern Festoon Zerynthia cerisy 16 Red Admiral Vanessa atlanta 3 Black-veined White Aporia crataegi 17 Small Tortoiseshell Aglais urticae 4 Large White Pieris brassicae 18 Southern Comma Polygonum egea 5 Orange Tip Anthocharis cardamines 19 Comma Butterfly Polygonum c-album 6 Clouded Yellow Colias crocea 20 Cardinal Argynnis pandora 7 Ilex Hairstreak Satyrium ilicis 21 Queen of Spain Fritillary Issoria lathonia 8 Small Copper Lycaena phlaeas 22 Knapweed Fritillary Melitaea phoebe 9 Brown Argus Aricia agestis 23 Spotted Fritillary Militaea didyma 10 Iolas Blue Iolana iolas 24 Lesser Spotted Fritillary Melitaea trivia 11 Nettle-tree Butterfly Libythea celtis 25 Scotch Argus Erebia aethiops 12 Southern White Admiral Limenitis reducta 26 Meadow Brown Maniola jurtina 13 Camberwell Beauty Nymphalis antiopa 27 Small Heath Coenonympha pamphilus 14 Large Tortoiseshell Nymphalis polychloros 28 Speckled Wood Pararge aegeria