Greece - The Pelicans of Lake Kerkini Naturetrek Tour Report 18 - 25 May 2008 Dalmatian Pelican Lake Kerkini Rose-coloured Starlings Report compiled by Philip Thompson and David Morris. Images by David Morris Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Greece - The Pelicans of Lake Kerkini Tour Leaders: Philip Thompson David Morris Participants: Trevor Best Sarah Best David Mees Margaret Mees Trevor Macklin Judith Macklin Derek Harwood Shirley Harwood Deryn Hutchins Sue Jackson Sue Bradshaw Day 1 Sunday 18th May After all the group had been gathered together at Thessaloniki airport we set off for the short hour and a half transfer to the Hotel Erodios in Lithotopus which was to be our base for the duration of the trip. On arrival in Lithotopuswe had our first glimpse of the lake and were immediately presented with close views of both Dalmatian and White Pelicans, and both night and Squacco Herons. Numerous Little Egrets lined the lake shore and large numbers of Great Cormorants and Great Crested Grebes were on the lake. We drove up to the hotel, which sits in a commanding position with wonderful views across to the lake and the surrounding mountains. Then we were assigned to our rooms and had time to freshen up before dinner. Day 2 Monday 19th May For our first day we set off round the earth embankment from the dam wall and onto the eastern shores. It was immediately apparent how common the Olivaceous Warblers were, as they could be heard singing from all around with one or two showing well from the tops of bushes. We had our first Spanish Sparrows from bushes close to the track. It was, however, the lake birds that drew our immediate attention on this initial excursion. The Cormorants and Great Crested Grebes were ever present in large numbers on the open lake alongside the Night and Squacco Herons on the water’s edge. The landward side of the embankment had numerous Bee-eaters perching and hawking for insects alongside several large flocks of passage Rose-coloured Starlings, some of which dropped into the trees and bushes by the lake edge. As we proceeded round the lake the open water gave way to floating lily beds. Here we found a large breeding colony of Whiskered Terns which were very busy and active; also a small flotilla of five handsome Black-necked Grebes and a few dabchicks. Among the gulls, which are mainly Yellow-legged, was a flock of 20 juvenile Mediterranean and small numbers of Black-headed. We stopped for our first picnic lunch at a shady site, where Tree Sparrows, Black-headed Wagtail and Hoopoe were seen by the group as lunch was prepared. © Naturetrek September 08 1 Greece - The Pelicans of Lake Kerkini Tour Report Leaving the lake we drove on to the northern side of the Strimonas River and took a short walk to some disused carp ponds. Here we had good views of Great Reed Warblers and Spoonbill. Our main target here was the Little Bitterns and Purple Herons that breed here, and they provided short views as they flew over the reeds. Next was a short excursion up Ruppell’s Gorge which acts as a corridor for birds moving north in spring during passage periods. Due to the lateness of the season, and less than ideal weather, little was seen on the move. A distant Short-toed Eagle drifted over the surrounding hills as well as a couple of Ravens. Of botanical interest were the huge flowering Dragon Arums (Dracunculus vulgaris) giving off their delightful ‘dead animal’ aroma, which was proving irresistible to the local flies. Our final stop for the day was to a disused quarry in the Kerkini hills where we found several Black-eared Wheatear, Blue Rock Thrush and best of all the breeding Rock Nuthatch seen near its mud nest which was plastered under an overhanging rock. Below the quarry were Cirl Buntings, Red-backed Shrike and our first tortoise of the trip, which was identified as a Spur-thighed. Day 3 Tuesday 20th May A pre-breakfast trip was taken up a dirt track, which led into the hills on the western side of the lake, during which we saw our first Masked Shrike of the holiday along with Red-backed and Woodchat Shrikes. Several singing Black-headed Buntings were also evident. After breakfast and a slightly earlier start we headed east in the direction of Sidirockastro. In the hills nearby we stopped and scanned across to a rock face where Long-legged Buzzards were known to breed. Sure enough, despite the false alarm of a couple of local Common Buzzards, we didn’t have long to wait before one bird drifted over towards the nest area and then away, followed a little later on by another bird landing on the rock face that we watched through our various scopes. As an added bonus at this spot there was a large flock of Rose- coloured Starlings gathered in the trees below us, plus another Masked Shrike. We then continued eastwards into rolling hilly country seeing a Little Owl on the way. We stopped and took a walk in an area of scrubby woodland in a shallow gorge in the hope of seeing some warblers and woodpeckers, but birdlife was pretty quiet. We did, however, find our first Hermann’s Tortoise and Pink Butterfly Orchid (Orchis papillonaceae). While returning to the vehicles we spotted a Golden Eagle passing over us. It was mobbed by a couple of buzzards, which were dwarfed by the eagle! Picnic was taken during the heat of the day at another pleasant shady spot which had fresh spring water. Next we headed up Ruppell’s Gorge on the main road towards the Bulgarian border to a wood near Promochonas. Here we sought out a Syrian Woodpecker and found a nesting site of Middle-spotted Woodpecker as well as Wood Warbler, Spotted Flycatcher, Collared Flycatcher and, on the edge of the wood, another Masked Shrike. On our return to the hotel we had a Steppe Buzzard overhead showing the diagnostic rusty tail. 2 © Naturetrek September 08 Greece - The Pelicans of Lake Kerkini Tour Report Day 4 Wednesday 21st May Today we returned to the lake to explore the western shore, which is markedly different to the eastern one, as here the lake is flanked by the Mavrouni hills. At our first stop we had noticed several Golden Oriole in the poplar plantations and these were seen by the whole group. Drifting over the hills were several Black Kites, Booted Eagle, our first Lesser Spotted Eagle and another Golden Eagle. Not to be outdone, a male Levant Sparrowhawk swooped out of the surrounding woods giving good, if brief, close views. Around the lake itself we had good numbers of both species of pelicans and 40+ Pygmy Cormorants, as well as good numbers of herons and egrets. In a sheltered bay there was a pair of Garganey along with several loafing pelicans. In the scrubby hills behind, several Cirl Buntings were heard and seen and one elusive Ortolan Bunting sang and put in a brief appearance. Our first Black Stork drifted overhead. We continued round the lake before heading into the northern hills to the village of Ano Porroia for a picnic lunch in the shade then some of the group followed this with a coffee at the nearby taverna. Most of the group then took a walk up into the wooded hills where we came across an abundance of grazing Hermann’s Tortoises and Europe’s largest moth, the large Peacock Moth. Climbing higher we found a Semi-collared Flycatcher among the canopy. To end the day, as planned, we were then to travel east to Mandraki and its taverna under the 600-year-old Plane tree, but not before encountering the mystery of the vanishing road out of Ano Porroia. For some unaccountable reason we couldn’t find the road out of the village that we had used to arrive there, despite repeated searching – it’s only a little village after all! So, by a different route, we made our way back to the main road and on to Mandraki. Again our plans were foiled, by the weather this time – soon after our arrival the heavens opened letting out torrential rain and hail and our hoped for relaxing coffee overlooking the lake had to be curtailed. Day 5 Thursday 22nd May Our customary pre-breakfast walk was taken by the river below the dam wall. It proved to be a rather quiet morning with little of note seen. After breakfast we set out on our longest excursion of the trip to Mount Vrondous and the Lailias ski resort. After safely negotiating our way through Serres we then started the slow steady ascent towards the mountain top at around 1,900 metres. A Red Squirrel was seen as it crossed the road ahead by those in the lead vehicle. At our first stop at the ski centre we had a couple of Crossbills, Crested and Coal Tits and Black Redstart. We then made our way downhill in the vehicles, before stopping for another foray around some open rocky ground. Here we had excellent views of a pair of Rock Thrush, Northern Wheatear and Red-backed Shrike as well as numerous Scotch Argus butterflies. We then took our picnic in the peace and solitude of the wonderful scenery there. A further walk in the pine woods lower down was rather quiet but was enlivened by the sighting of a local pack of feral dogs pursuing a Roe Deer through the forest! © Naturetrek September 08 3 Greece - The Pelicans of Lake Kerkini Tour Report Day 6 Friday 23rd May For our pre-breakfast trip we returned to the eastern shore to check the marshy ditches behind the lake embankment.