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Michael Edwards Is Constant Byredo Een Groot Lifestyle - Wordt Dat Gecompenseerd De Manier Waarop Er Over Onderweg

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Michael Edwards Is Constant Byredo Een Groot Lifestyle - Wordt Dat Gecompenseerd De Manier Waarop Er Over Onderweg Michael Edwards is auteur van Fragrances of the World , de vuistdikke bijbel van de parfumwereld. Als geen ander weet ’s werelds beroemdste parfumexpert welke trends eraan zitten te komen. We vroegen hem naar de tien belangrijkste. ‘We kunnen straks geuren afspelen op onze computer.’ tekst Sofie Albrecht y t u a e B 10 X PARFUMTRENDS De nabije toekomst geurt zo Laudergroep Le Labo en lijks worden er 1.400 à 1.500 Frederic Malle, dit jaar kwa - nieuwe parfums uitgebracht. 1 men L’Artisan Parfumeur en Onder druk van de retailers 5 DE INVLOED Penhaligon’s bij de Spaanse die kampen met plaatstekort NIEUWE VAN NIEUWE Puig-groep. Investerings - worden minder presterende COMMUNICATIE & MARKTEN groep Manzanita Capital producten uit de markt INFORMATIE kondigde in juni aan van gehaald. Maar tegelijkertijd Michael Edwards is constant Byredo een groot lifestyle - wordt dat gecompenseerd De manier waarop er over onderweg. Hij heeft een huis merk te maken, te beginnen door collecties: sommige parfum wordt gesproken, is in Australië, zit zes maanden met een lederwarenlijn. merken lanceren reeksen van achterhaald, vindt Michael per jaar in Parijs, drie maan - Edwards knikt: “Niche is verschillende parfums tege - Edwards. “Het brengt men - den in New York en reist de de toekomst. Het is de kweek - lijk in plaats van een enkele sen meer in de war dan dat rest van de tijd de wereld vijver waaruit het talent referentie. Om hun kans op het ze wijzer maakt. Merken rond om nieuwe parfums te wordt opgevist.” succes te vergroten. hebben het over exotische ontdekken, hun classificatie “Bijvoorbeeld: Prada heeft bloemen die niemand kent en te bespreken en de ‘nieuwe naast de gewone geuren twee voeren banale reclamecam - markten’ te bezoeken. collecties – Les Infusions en pagnes vol clichés en verge - “Voor het Midden-Oosten, Exclusive Scents – die samen zochte fantasieën. Waarom Azië en Zuid-Amerika ont - 3 twintig geuren tellen. Chloé vertellen ze niet over wat er wikkelen de grote merken lanceerde drie geuren – Eau echt gebeurt achter de scher - vaak aangepaste versies van VINTAGE de Fleurs – in één keer. In men? Met humor? Zoals de internationale parfums”, zegt combinatie met de spectacu - hilarische filmpjes van Old hij. “Frisse geuren doen het Nu niche populair wordt, laire toename van nichemer - Spice, die gingen viraal op goed in Zuid-Amerika én in gaan connaisseurs en snobs ken die als paddenstoelen uit YouTube én de verkoop Azië, oosterse parfums veel op zoek naar een ander soort de grond schieten, zal het niet deden ontploffen. minder. Dus zal men een fris - exclusiviteit. En dat vinden ze lang meer duren voor we “Maar de merken zijn niet sere versie lanceren in Azië, in vintage parfums in de oor - 2.000 parfums per jaar zullen klaar voor een nieuwe omdat dat daar beter ver - spronkelijke formule. Op noteren.” manier van communiceren. koopt. veilingsites halen vergeten Ze proberen krampachtig het “Maar daar moeten we klassiekers astronomische nieuws te ‘managen’, en dat B e veel verder in gaan. We kijken bedragen. Edwards begrijpt werkt niet. Zeker niet in een a u t nog te veel door een westerse die nostalgie niet goed: “Als digitale wereld. Het vacuüm y bril. We moeten onderzoeken gevolg van de striktere wetge - wordt opgevuld door blogs, wat frisheid betekent voor ving zijn de meeste formules maar die zijn vaak meer bezig Aziaten, ons meer verdiepen inderdaad aangepast. Maar met als eerste het laatste in de smaakvoorkeuren van dat hoeft niet altijd een kwali - MICHAEL nieuws te brengen dan met die consumenten. Ik denk dat teitsverlies te betekenen. Kijk EDWARDS de correctheid van de er een enorm potentieel is in maar naar hoe Guerlain informatie”, zucht Edwards. die markten, maar niet nood - parfumeur Thierry Wasser Als marketingmanager voor een Ameri - “Terwijl de consument steeds zakelijk met het aanbod dat Mitsouko heeft ‘gerenoveerd’ kaans cosmeticamerk verdiepte de nu meer behoefte krijgt aan er nu bestaat.” en wat Mathilde Laurent met 72-jarige Brit zich in parfums en ging informatie en kennis. Must bij Cartier heeft gedaan. ruiken en vergelijken. Toen hij een ma - Internetfora waar mensen Parfumeurs hebben altijd al nier zocht om verkopers te helpen om discussiëren over parfums en alternatieven voor bepaalde ook parfums voor te stellen die niet kennis uitwisselen floreren.” ingrediënten moeten hun persoonlijke smaak waren, ge - Dat is een trend waar ook zoeken.” bruikte hij een technisch handboek van Ici Paris XL op anticipeert. De 2 een geurproducent als basis. Dat be - Dat hoeft geen probleem te parfumerieketen bestelde bij NICHE IS zijn als er de nodige tijd en werkte hij tot een gids waar 323 par - Edwards een zoekmachine DE TOEKOMST budget aan wordt besteed, fums per geurfamilie waren opgelijst. op maat waarmee het meent Edwards. Zo konden verkopers gemakkelijk een verkooppersoneel snel en “Vorig jaar noteerden we 400 parfum opzoeken en gelijkaardige al - gericht parfums kan voorstel - nicheparfums op 1.400 lance - ternatieven voorstellen. De Ameri - len op basis van wat de klant ringen. Van die 200 niche - kaanse department store Nordstrom graag ruikt. “Als je iemand merken zijn er een tiental vroeg hem om de gids uit te breiden naar zijn drie favoriete par - met interessante ideeën. Die met Amerikaanse parfums, vervolgens fums vraagt, komen er door - 4 met mannengeuren en uiteindelijk met zullen opgekocht worden gaans twee uit dezelfde geur - door grote groepen om er MEER VAN nichemerken. Vandaag – 32 jaar later – familie. Per familie wordt er globale merken van te MINDER bevat Fragrances of the World 8.000 dan nog verder onderver - maken, zoals Estée Lauder parfums. De gids wordt jaarlijks deeld in akkoorden en deed met Tom Ford en Jo Edwards: “Het lancerings - geüpdatet, bestaat ook als online data - gewicht – van fris naar Malone”, voorspelt Edwards. tempo is de laatste drie jaar base en is de referentie voor professio - zwaarder. Zo kun je in een Vorig jaar verwierf de redelijk stabiel gebleven: jaar - nals in de parfumindustrie. oogopslag het verschil tussen DMmagazine 5 december 2015 92 — 93 De nabije toekomst geurt zo bepaalde parfums zien, zon - populairder worden, meent der dat je ze hebt geroken.” hij. “Hout- en chyprenoten Je kunt ook zoeken op 7 zijn voor echte parfumlief - basis van ingrediënten, een NIEUWE hebbers. Die parfums bepaalde lifestyle of gelegen - STIJLEN worden gedragen door heid. “Mensen zijn niet echt vrouwen, niet door meisjes.” geïnteresseerd in classifica - “Nichemerken hebben de ties”, weet Michael Edwards. wereld geopend. Naast de “Ze willen zo snel mogelijk traditionele Franse en een parfum vinden dat ze Amerikaanse parfumeriestijl graag ruiken. Maar dat is niet zie je nu ook andere genres 10 gemakkelijk. Ze proberen er opkomen die geïnspireerd drie en zijn het dan beu. Met zijn op verschillende cultu - DE GEUR VAN de fragrance finder app kun - ren.” DE TOEKOMST nen verkoopsters veel gerich - Artisanale parfums uit het ter te werk gaan, wat de kans Midden-Oosten worden bij - Edwards verwacht vooral op succes verhoogt.” voorbeeld populair. De par - vernieuwing uit de digitale fums van de Indisch-Franse wereld. “Het is nog embryo - Neela Vermeire zijn een boei - naal, maar het zit er zeker ende mix van oosterse geu - aan te komen: parfum ver - ren en een Franse stijl. Ze werkt in een disc zodat je 6 werkt samen met de Franse geuren kunt ‘afspelen’ in de parfumeur Bertrand computer, microcapsules in CELEBRITY Duchafour, die aan de slag parfum om het langer te doen PARFUMS ZIJN gaat met Neela’s jeugdherin - houden op de huid, geur ver - NIET DOOD neringen en typisch Indische werken in kleding …” ingrediënten en er heden - Het type geuren dat in de Volgens Bart Becht, ceo van daagse westerse parfums van toekomst ontwikkeld zal wor - Coty, zijn de hoogdagen van maakt. Het Zweedse Agonist 9 den, wordt ook bepaald celebrityparfums geteld. Maar en Deense Zarkoperfume HOUTNOTEN door… de wetgeving. “De laat - y t IN DE LIFT u Edwards ziet het succes van vertalen de minimalistische ste 25 jaar is ons parfumge - a e B supersterrenluchtjes nog niet esthetiek van Scandinavisch bruik exponentieel toegeno - meteen tanen. “In 2013 noteer - design treffend in geuren die “Bloemenparfums zullen men. Dat veroorzaakt den we 59 nieuwe celebrity - net een tikje anders zijn. Een altijd populair blijven”, weet allergieën, maar ook milieu - parfums, in 2014 waren dat er trend die zich verder zal ont - Edwards. “Ze zijn goed voor problemen. Detergenten, 70. Als er iets is wat in deze wikkelen, volgens Edwards. de helft van de markt. De luchtverfrissers, vloerreini - digitale tijden floreert, is het zwoelere floriëntals – tussen gers, home sprays, enzovoort, wel de celebritycultuur. Die bloemig en oosters – ruimen belanden uiteindelijk immers fascinatie is typisch voor de stilaan baan voor houtachtige in de riool, wat problemen jonge generatie, die voor bling orientals.” geeft indien het niet bio- en celebrityparfums kiest. Ik 8 Maar het zijn de houtgeu - afbreekbaar of recycleerbaar denk niet dat het hen om een ren en chypres die hem inte - is. Daarom is de wetgeving specifieke geur te doen is. Het ANDROGYNITEIT resseren. “Die zijn wat moei - erg strikt geworden, wat dan is de naam en de marketing lijker. Het vraagt tijd voor een weer een grote impact heeft die voor hen telt, wat ze ermee Persoonlijk vindt Edwards chypre om zich te ontplooien. op het gebruik van bepaalde kunnen zeggen.” het niet relevant of een par - In de jaren 90 waagde men ingrediënten en bijgevolg het Beyoncé blijft volgens vak - fum voor mannen of voor zich wel aan Paloma Picasso, type geuren dat ontwikkeld blad WWD de hitlijsten in de vrouwen is ontwikkeld. Hij is maar zo’n groene chypre is zal worden.” parfumerie aanvoeren, net ervan overtuigd dat mensen niet voor iedereen. Het zeer zoals in de muziek. Ook de steeds meer hun neus zullen bloemige Romance van luchtjes van Jennifer Lopez volgen: “Van de 400 niche - Ralph Lauren was de eerste en Rihanna blijven geld parfums die vorig jaar uit - chypre die op grote schaal opbrengen.
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