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Hedonistic Budapest Classic by Day, Cool by Night, the Hungarian Capital Is an All-Time Thrill

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Hedonistic Budapest Classic by Day, Cool by Night, the Hungarian Capital Is an All-Time Thrill INSTANTESCAPES hedonistic BudaPeSt Classic by day, cool by night, the Hungarian capital is an all-time thrill. Dive in! argain haute cuisine, sprawling outdoor WHAT TO SEE & DO l While lolling in the steamy waters of Buda’s l At the Great Market Hall (Vámház Körút 1-3; Heat haze: from left, let off steam in the Széchenyi l Kick off in the heart of things – on baths is a great way to sweat off a hangover, piaconline.hu; 12 ), citizens bargain for meats, baths; breakfast like a king in the glitzy interior of the city’s grand main boulevard, Andrássy Ut, earning one there is even more enjoyable. spices and veg at ground level, while the first New York Café; the impressive Hungarian Parliament bars and pneumatic nightclubs – it’s easy Building; statue of King Béla IV, in Heroes’ Square which runs from downtown Pest through to On Saturday nights, Széchenyi or Lukács 7 floor hawks tourist tat and local grub. Grab to over-indulge in Budapest. Luckily, the the tranquil expanses of City Park ( 1 on map). host raucous ‘sparties’, attracting local a crispy lángos (deep-fried flatbread) from Expect to encounter an army of joggers B You’ll pass the imposing Neo-Renaissance twentysomethings and tourists (take flip- the eponymous stall and settle down at the trudging the isle’s periphery; skilled ‘ultimate Hungarian capital’s peerless thermal baths can Opera House 2 , innumerable stunning flops and a towel; tickets £18; see lukacsbaths. Panoráma Bár to observe the throng. Frisbee’ matches; and scores of infants facades and finally reach Heroes’ Square 3 , com or szechenyispabaths.com/sparties). mowing down their parents on pedal buggies. erase the most grievous sybaritic sins. Cleansed where the archangel Gabriel lords it over Expect cocktails, laser lighting, DJs and dancing. l Frittering away a few hours in one of the the seven founders of Hungary. city’s palatial cafes is mandatory. Gerbeaud l Three offbeat transport methods provide of your excesses, there are Baroque architectural l You’ll see head-clearing splendour if you ride (Vörösmarty Tér 7-8; gerbeaud.hu; 13 ) has been the best way to explore Buda’s rolling hills. Ride masterpieces, verdant hills and grandiose cafes l Time to wallow. There are around a dozen the funicular (£5 return; 8 ) up Buda’s Castle serving transcendent cakes amid a sea of dark the BKV cog train (bkv.hu; £2.50; 17 ) 3.5km up thermal-bath complexes in this city. For a trad Hill for a circuit around the walls of the Royal wood and chandeliers since 1858. For the best to Széchenyi-hegy (hill) and wander through to explore. Time to join the party… Turkish experience, complete with coloured- Palace (Szent György Tér 2; 9 ). Today, King brekkie – and glitz galore – visit New York Café the park to the Children’s Railway, staffed by glass cupola, visit Rudas (Döbrentei Tér 9; rudas Bela IV’s 13th-century masterpiece houses the (Erzsébet Körút 9-11; newyorkcafe.hu; 14 ); or for kids aged 10-14 (their attempts at military By Ed Vanstone furdo.hu; entry £8.50; 4 ). To feel as if you’re National Library (free); the Hungarian National a more sedate experience, try Centrál Kávéház salutes are adorable; gyermekvasut.hu; bathing in a cathedral, go to Gellért (Kelenhegyi Gallery (£4); and the Budapest History Museum (Károlyi Mihály Utca 9; centralkavehaz.hu; 15 ). £1.50; 18 ). Alight at 527m János-hegy and Ut 4; gellertbath.hu; £13.50; 5 ). Our favourite? (£4). Afterwards, head over to Fisherman’s ascend to Elizabeth (Erzsébet) look-out for Neo-Baroque Széchenyi (Allatkerti Körút 9-11; Bastion 10 , a beautiful seven-towered terrace, l When locals want to escape the city hubbub, incredible views over Budapest and its szechenyibath.hu; £13; 6 ) – it has 18 pools, and for show-off snaps of the Parliament Building they head to Margaret Island 16 , a chubby satellite towns, before taking the chairlift a 10pm closing time for moonlight paddling. 11 on the banks of the Danube in Pest. stretch of parkland that bisects the Danube. (Zugligeti Ut 97; £1.50; 19 ) down the hill. > 144 Sunday Times Travel February 2014 February 2014 Sunday Times Travel 145 INSTANTESCAPES hedonistic BudaPeSt ask the local Regina Papp is now a key part of the city’s allure. The oldest the editor-in-chief and largest is Szimpla Kert (see 31 ), but of Welovebuda nearby Fogasház (Akácfa Ut 51; fogashaz.hu; pest.com, which 36 ) and Instant (Nagymező Utca 38; instant. provides personalised co.hu; 37 ) also warrant exploration (the latter tips to the city’s is on Nagymező Street, the Shaftesbury residents and visitors Avenue of Pest). Mitigate your hangover the morning after with coffee at Csendes (Ferenczy ‘Budapest’s ruin-pub István Utca 5; 38 ), a trendy cafe/bar full of phenomenon began some 10 years ago when vintage movie knick-knacks and contemporary a downtown apartment building destined art. Then sample caramelised hazelnuts to be demolished was spiced up with a beer coated in chocolate and sprinkled with ginger tap, a couple of decrepit couches and old- at Rózsavölgyi chocolatier (Királyi Pál Ut 6; school telephones serving as door handles. rozsavolgyi.com; 39 ), before hunting for antiques The concept blossomed, and ruin pubs are at Ecseri flea market (Nagykőrösi Ut 156; 40 ).’ CL Night on the tiles: The Four Seasons Gresham WHERE TO STAY Boscolo Budapest Autograph Collection ROMaSSICNtIC Chess Restaurant (Dob Utca 63; 00 Palace’s mosaic-lined lobby; goose-liver pâté Casati Budapest Hotel (Paulay Ede Utca (Erzsébet Körút 9-11; 00 36 1886 6145, boscolo 36 1882 3080, chessrestaurant.hu; is a traditional Hungarian delicacy; the grungy- 31; 00 36 1343 1198, casatibudapesthotel. hotels.com; 14 ). The ritzy New York Café (see 27 ). Pristine black-and-white tiles and a piano glam ruin pub Szimpla Kert com; 20 ). This central chi-chi boutique hotel previous page) doubles as this five-star’s bar soundtrack complement the cuisine at this has four stylish room options – classic, cool, and restaurant. Opulent rooms come with Italian-French-Hungarian bistro. The sea bass (garden/ruin bars renowned for their quirky natural and heaven – all with minimalist designer period fittings; ask for one with a balcony looking with black gnocchi and mango cream is great. rustic decor), Szimpla is a phantasmagoria of furniture and a soporific neutral colour out over the city. Doubles from £105, room only. A fantastic date-night spot. Mains around £10. derelict cars, bathtubs, belly dancers and live scheme. The adjoining modern-art gallery is bands spread over a labyrinth of rooms. worth a peruse. Doubles from £61, B&B. Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Múzeum (Múzeum Körút 12; 00 36 1267 0375, (Széchenyi István Tér 5-6; 00 36 1268 6000, muzeumkavehaz.hu; 28 ). The epitome of Doblo (Dob Utca 20; budapestwine.com; 32 ). HIPPe 24 dIGSSt Brody House (Bródy Sándor Utca fourseasons.com; ). Routinely found on 19th-century elegance, Múzeum flaunts an This classy wine bar is perfect for romantic 10; 00 36 1266 1211, brodyhouse. best-hotels-in-the-world lists, this Art Nouveau original Venetian mirror and walls daubed by evenings – all exposed brickwork and candlelight. com; 21 ). Once the residence of the Hungarian paragon was restored to full fin de siècle glory in the revered Hungarian ceramicist Zslonay. prime minister, Brody is now a hip members’ 2004. The mosaic lobby under a glass cupola is Specialities amid the trad Hungarian fare include Boutiq Bar (Paulay Ede Ut 5; boutiqbar.hu; 33 ). club/gallery/boutique hotel. The huge common dazzling, the service impeccable and the fifth- goose-liver pâté and an array of pálinka, the The best cocktails in Pest are found at this area – where breakfast is served, art exhibited floor spa – with portholes affording views of the nation’s fruity favourite spirit. Mains around £11. sharp-lined bar. Also try the Unicum – a and emerging bands debated – is a great place Chain Bridge – divine. Doubles from £288, B&B. Hungarian favourite made from more than to sit, chat and gawp at Budapest’s boho ’n’ Taverna Dionysos (Belgrád Rakpart 16; 00 36 40 herbs and aged in oak casks. beautiful clique. Doubles from £71, B&B. WHERE TO EAT 1318 1222, dionysos.hu; 29 ). Ignore the slightly Tom George Italiano (Október 6 Utca 8; naff faux-Grecian decor at this popular taverna, Cinetrip (cinetrip.hu; £18). Bathing, dancing Buda Castle Fashion Hotel (Uri Utca 39; 00 36 00 36 1266 3525, tomgeorge.hu; 25 ). Book and dine outside on the terrace, with its and acrobatics in a fug of steam and neon in 1224 7900, budacastlehotelbudapest.com; 22 ). ahead to secure a table at this cool Italian, panorama of Gellért Hill. Savour seafood or opt MAIDENHEAD CARTOGRAPHIC unique locations – it doesn’t get much more Get me there Fisherman’s Bastion may be two minutes’ populated by a young and boisterous crowd. for meltingly soft souvlaki. Mains around £11. MAP: hedonistic than Cinetrip’s weekly parties. amble from this stylish four-star, but the hotel The pasta dishes are excellent and the GO INDEPENDENT Manchester and Bristol, nights at The Four Seasons is still wonderfully tranquil. Spacious rooms, cocktails almost tasty enough to tempt you Onyx (Vörösmarty Tér 7-8; 00 36 3050 80622, WHERE TO SHOP The Hungarian low-cost from £22 one way. Gresham Palace from vast beds and a bountiful breakfast make it one away from Hungarian reds. Mains around £7. onyxrestaurant.hu; 30 ). Celebrated for its six- Eventuell gallery (Nyáry Pál Utca 7; airline Wizz Air (0907 292 £520pp, room only, including of Buda’s best sleeps.
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