Index

A university district, student perception, 28 Aeppel, Timothy, 128 Beijing Foreign Studies University, Alcohol-based fragrance formulas, Xu interview, 21 experimentation, 112 Beijing University, ideas/progress, Alibaba, founding, 62 28–29 Allbirds, design leadership Biden, Joe, 131–132 (usage), 146–147 Bleeding (wax), 67 Alzheimer’s disease (AD), treatment Bloomingdale’s, 109 (objective), 12, 116–118 cross-merchandising, impact, 69 Ambers, compounding, 101 deal, 68–69 Ambiente trade show, 48, 59, 95, 96 orders, problems, 89 candles, (reevaluation), 49–50 pitch, 75 America Dream, 42, 54, 142 Xu visit, 42–43 Americans with Disabilities Act Body language, reading, 46–47 (ADA), 128 Boston Consulting Group, 131 Antidumping tariffs, impact, 120 Box stores, vendor entry Anti-merchant prejudices, 62–64 (difficulty), 70 Aphrodite, fragrant offering, 102 Brand Aroma Bay Candle (Vietnam identity, change, 59–60 factory), 121 sensory branding, 106 Aromatherapy, powers, 115, 139 transformation, 110 B COPYRIGHTEDvisual MATERIAL brand, generation, 141 Briefcase guy, 44 Bed Bath & Beyond Buildings deal, 70–73, 77, 121, 123 building-based fragrance stories, orders, problems, 89 awareness, 106 pitch, 75 fragrance stories, 105 replenishment vendor status, 72 Burn Beeswax, usage, 133–134 behavior, 66 Beijing non-draft burn tests, performing, 66 college, Xu arrival, 22 times, inconsistency, 67

Xu695929_bindex.indd 157 02-02-2021 17:02:27 158 Index

C product design, improvement, 48–49 Calligraphy styles, 60 quality, ensuring, 64–65, 90, 123 “Candle Maker Feels Burned” (The regional quality, variation, 65–66 Wall Street Journal), 128–129 reorders, speed, 47 Candles stand-alone pillars, usage, 110 Ambiente trade show, 49–50, 59 Vybar, usage (absence), 53 analyses (Heymann), 94–95 vanilla candle, creation, 66 assembly line (Vietnam) YInMn , patent, 87 (photo), 122 Canton, haute cuisine capital, 10–11 bottom, wick (insertion), 66–67 Chanel No5, 100, 111 brand identity, change, 59–60 Chargeback, receiving (potential), 79 burn behavior, influences, 66 Chesapeake Bay (company) candle-making antidumping tariffs, impact, 120 elements, creative possibilities, 95 anti-merchant prejudices, 62–63 maturation, 73 Bed Bath & Beyond deal, 70–71 Chicago Gift Show success, 47–48 Bloomingdale’s deal, 68–69 classic collection, 97–98 box candles, Target launch, 124 /fragrances, 52 brand, transformation, 110 palette/vision, alignment, 52–53 buyers, advance 12-month cycle, 71 consistency, requirement, 61 candles, air-shipping, 85–86 cross-merchandising, 69 capital, search, 63–64 design-based innovation, 53–54 Chinese candle manufacturer, importance, 50 partnership, 61 finishes, 96 classic collection, 97–98 frosted appearance, 96 collaborators, 63–64 glass vessels, usage, 110 /olfactory mixture, 66–67 glow candles company, creation, 59 business, 63 competition, 86, 125 popularity, 45–46 Moon (fragrance), 109 jar candles, popularity, 125–126 design Kirkland’s orders, 47 focus, 91 life/longevity, answers, 46 process, travel (impact/ linen finish, production, 96 increase), 96–97 magic glow candles, studios, opening, 95 manufacture, 63 team, research, 97 New York International Gift Fair design-focused company, sales, reevaluation, 48–49 transformation, 95 non-draft burn tests, 66 design-forward brand, Chinese nonflammable home-fragrance counterparts (divergence), 60 products, pursuit, 110–111 failure, learning, 67 nonuniformity/uniqueness, Friday blue sky trend meetings, 98 problems, 70 Full Moon (fragrance), 109 oxygen-based (ozonic) candles, 134 Glen Burnie warehouse (Maryland), popularity, 45–46 manufacturing move, 127–131

Xu695929_bindex.indd 158 02-02-2021 17:02:27 Index 159

goodwill, leveraging, 125 sales, projections, 86 Great Recession, impact, 124–125 sell-throughs (complications), growth, 70 promotions (impact), 71–72 high-interest lending, usage, 64 shipment delay, 81–82, 87 “Home Scents” collection, 123, 125 small-batch orders, 133 humidifier, creation, 113 “Sonoma” jar-candle line, 123 inspiration library, 97 Spa line, 139 “Jasmine Water” (scent), 103 spring, retail season labor costs, increase, 124–125 (importance), 71 lead cap allotment (Target), 77–78 standard operating procedures, Lemongrass Eucalyptus (fragrance), updating, 67 103 tchotchke reputation, avoidance, 60 magic glow candles, Temple (fragrance offering), 102 manufacture, 63 travel, usage, 96–97 manufacturing locations, vendor size, transformation, 84 alternatives, 120–121 warehouse rental, 81–82 marketing, 67–68 wellness industry entry, 138–139 Mediterranean Citrus (fragrance), Chesapeake Bay (location) 103–104 olfactory identity, 108 Nordstrom deal, 70 peace, 58 Oak Moss (fragrance), Chesapeake Bay/Target 103–104 collaboration, importance, 90 operational complexity, fears, 61 deal, 77–80 osmanthus, creation, 104 dissimulation, problems, 88 overseas production, increase, 80 first order, 81–84 personal savings, usage, 64 partnership pillar candles (photo), 54 salvaging, 85–86 Portu Sunberg, partnership, 84–85 survival/lessons, 86–87 process management/workflow, pitch, 75–77 assistance, 135–136 research/contact, 72–75 product sales, projection, 86 consistency, difficulty, 64–65 shipment delay, 87–88 cross-merchandising, 69 Chicago Gift Show, candles (sales nonuniformity/uniqueness, success), 47–48 problems, 70 China quality, ensuring, 64–65, 90, 123 bureaucracy, Xu navigation, 34–36 production control, consolidation, 7 establishment, 64 isolationism/internationalism, increase, 84 change, 16 profitability, increase, 84 Japan invasion (1937), 6 redistribution window, marketplace success, 62 reduction, 82 Open Door policy, 16 regional quality, variation, 65–66 self-expression, ideological replenishment vendor status, 72, 89 opposition, 60 revenue projections, problems, 85–86 Chu, Judy, 129

Xu695929_bindex.indd 159 02-02-2021 17:02:27 160 Index

Cleopatra, fragrances (usage), 101 China consolidation, 7 Clinique, Happy (debut), 108 Enlai, Zhou (grandparent figure), 6–7 Cold throw, 134–136 Entrepreneurship, American Cold War, 7, 121 perception, 145–146 Color therapy, 139 Environmental factors, , popularity, 140 impact, 115–116 Communist Party, food Everlane, sustainability/ (rationing), 10 hypertransparency, 146–147 Consumer response, supply-chain management system response F (Target), 79 Falliday season, 47, 71–72 Copper Moon (fragrance), 109 discussion, 82 COVID-19 pandemic, impact, 120 fragrance stories, 103 Cross-merchandising, 69 stress, 74 Cultural Revolution (China), 2, 6, 28, Fancy Food Show, visit, 94 39, 51, 132–133 Fashion, global cultural Customer expression, 43 behavior projections, Fashion Week, 105 understanding, 79 Fields, Mark, 132 complaints, imagining, 83 First Five-Year Plan (Zedong), 62 demand, increase, 84 Food, indulgence (safety), 14 Fragrance D alcohol-based fragrance formulas, Dalian, 29–30, 34–36, 40–41 experimentation, 112 Dapoly, 51 cocktail-inspired fragrances, Democratization of design conception, 98 philosophy, 73–74 delivery, 109–114 Desenne, Carmen, 99–101 innovation, challenge, 111–113 Design leadership, usage, 146–147 effects, 114–115 Design/manufacturing combination, failures, 107–108 impact, 143–144 fragrance-based emotions, control/ Diffusers expression, 140–141 delivery, 112 graph, usage, 114–115 reed diffusers, 111–113 home fragrance, Chesapeake Bay exit, 138 E houses, contact (increase/ Emotions importance), 101 emotional response system, industry, start, 52 fragrances (impact), 114 infusions, usage (Chinese fragrance-based emotions, control/ doubts), 61 expression, 140–141 instructor, hiring, 52–53 End-of-season markdowns, 80 journey, 99–101 English Corners, emergence, 27 layering, 111 Enlai, Zhou legacy, 114–117

Xu695929_bindex.indd 160 02-02-2021 17:02:27 Index 161

natural fragrance-delivery systems, urban development, vestiges, 3–4 creation, 113 visit (1996), 61 notes, aspiration, 108–109 West Lake district, 58, 104 science, 108–109 Xu, birth, 3 signature scents, manufacture/ Hangzhou manufacturing facility diffusion, 105 failure, learning, 67 story failures, 106–107 photo, 65 storytelling, 101–109 securing, 64 “Fragrance first” vision, 135 standard operating procedures, Fragrance Foundation, updating, 67 invitation, 99–101 Happy (Clinique debut), 108 French Color & Fragrance Co., 52 Heilongjiang (reeducation camp), 8 French, Peter, 52, 61, 114 “Heritage” collection, 141 Friday blue sky trend meetings, 98 Heymann, Corina, 94, 98 Full Moon (fragrance), 109 candle analyses, 94–95 Hirsch, Alan R., 116 G Holiday season orders, discussion, 82 Gaokao (National College Entrance Home interiors Examination), 20–21 revolution, 43 Glen Burnie warehouse (Maryland) Xu/David research, 44 bureaucracy, navigation, 128–129 Home Scent collection manufacturing move, 127–131 (“Made in the USA”), 136 quality, 136–137 “Home Scents” collection, workforce, assembly, 130–131 123, 125, 141 Glow candles. See Candles Hong Kong, market Gorbachev, Mikhail, 29 experimentation, 28 Grasse (“Rome of scents”), 100, 135 Hot throw, 134 Grasses, preparation, 112 House of Chanel, source/ Graves, Michael, 73–74 compounds, 100 Gray goods, circulation, 13 Human emotions, coloring/ Great Depression, 42 perfuming, 139 Great Proletarian Cultural Human wellness (promotion), Revolution, focus, 11 fragrances (impact), 114 Great Recession, 120 Humidifier, creation, 113 impact, 124–125 I H Innovation, maximization Hangzhou (goal), 146 entrepreneurial mecca, growth, 62 Inspiration library, 97 harmony, 9–15 Intellectuals, perspective, 10 iron/steel mill, 9 International Flavors & Fragrances middle school, entry exam, 15–22 (IFF), Xu journey, 114 scenic appeal, 4 Inventory databases, retailer three flowers, 22, 27 tracking, 71

Xu695929_bindex.indd 161 02-02-2021 17:02:27 162 Index

J Manufacturing, American perception, 145–146 Jardin, Christelle, 134–135 Market opportunity, entrepreneur Jars identification, 146 jar candles, popularity, 125–126 Market socialism, China usage, 110 (approach), 16 vessels, experimentation, 122–123 Meditation, 138 “Jasmine Water” (scent), 103 Mediterranean Citrus Jo Malone (fragrance), 103–104 handmade candles/boxes, Mei-isms, 89–90 sourcing, 123–124 Mei, meaning, 14 visit/research, 123 Mei’s Pod, 113–114 Just-because bouquets, oil yields, 101 Meldener, Ophélia, 135, 138–139 K Middle school, Xu attendance, 15–22 Mills, Shirley E., 129 Kai Shu (Chinese standard script), 60 “Mind & body” Kalbermatten, John/Nelly collection, success, 142–143 (Xu visit), 37–39 story, communication, 141 Kirkland’s, candles orders, 47 Mindfulness, 138 Kohl’s, “Sonoma” jar-candle line, 123 Monique, Queen, 2 Kors, Michael, 80 Mood boards, creation, 95 Moods, fragrances (impact), 139 L Musk, compounding, 101 Labor costs, increase, 124–126 Langer, Ellen, 115–116 N Laurel (Maryland), office space Nagel, Christine, 109 rental, 44–45 National College Entrance Lead cap, allotment (Target), Examination. See Gaokao 77–78 New Oriental Education & Lean product-supply model Technology Group Inc., service (Target), 79 (initiation), 28 Le Labo, Santal 26 creation, 105 New York City, Xu (arrival), 39 Lemongrass Eucalyptus New York International Gift Fair, (fragrance), 103 candle sales (reevaluation), 48–49 Li, meaning, 14 New York Times, The (Xu reading), 39 “Linger-longer factor,” 106 Niche markets, Xu/David Lingyin Temple, scent search, 43–44 (association), 102 Nixon, Richard (PRC visit), 16 Non-draft burn tests performing, 66 M Nordstrom Magic glow candles. See Candles deal, 70 Maison & Objet trade show pitch, 75 (Paris), 97, 106 Noses, 100 Ma, Jack, 62 interactions, 108

Xu695929_bindex.indd 162 02-02-2021 17:02:27 Index 163

O creation, 78 walkthrough, problems, 85 Oak Moss Amber Pol Pot (Khmer Rouge (fragrance), 103–104 dictatorship), 2 Obama, Barack, 9, 11, 102, 131–133, Portu Sunberg, Chesapeake Bay 142–143, 148, 150 partnership, 84–86 Xu/Obama photo, 132 Prices, minimization (problems), 146 Obama, Michelle (Mei designed Product candle), 107 innovation, focus, 95 Ocular overload, 116 manufacturing locations, Oils alternatives, 120–121 oozing, 67 nonflammable home-fragrance rose oil production, products, pursuit, 110–111 difficulty, 100–101 quality, ensuring, 64–65, 90 wax/colors, blending, 53 Pumpkin spice, fragrance stories, wax/dyes, interaction, 66 102–103, 133 yields, 101 Olfactory experiments, objective, 117 Q Olfactory identity, 108 One World Trade Center, signature Quality, ensuring, 64–65, 90, 123 scent (creation), 106 Open Door policy (China), 16 R Osmanthus, creation, 104 Reed diffusers, 111–112, 123 Overcommunication, importance, 88 introduction, 112–113, 141 Oxygen-based (ozonic) candles, 134 Reichenback, Carl, 65 Replenishment vendors, P offerings, 72 Pacific Trade International Replenishment vendor status formation, 44 Bed Bath & Beyond, 72 growth, 50 Target, 89 products (photo), 45 Retailers reorders, speed, 47 inventory databases, retailer representatives, hiring, 50–51 tracking, 71 social/business setting, David post-holiday retail slump, (success), 46–47 ending, 71 People’s Republic of China (PRC) Revolution, peril/promise, 6–9 creation, 6 Rice, Tom, 129 Nixon visit, 16 Rose oil production, Perfume houses, interaction, 108 difficulty, 100–101 Perfume: The Story of a Murderer Ryan, Denis, 138–139 (Süskind), 98 Petroleum was (paraffin wax), usage, S 64–65, 109, 112, 133–134 Sales, improvement method, 94 Planogram, 83 Santal 26, fragrance (usage), 105

Xu695929_bindex.indd 163 02-02-2021 17:02:27 164 Index

Schock, Jennifer, 74 merchandise, unloading, 83 delivery request, 77 “mind & body” collection, photo, 80 success, 142 trouble (message), 83–84 operational challenges, 78 Xu meeting, 75–77 overcommunication, importance, 88 Self-expression, ideological partnership opposition (China), 60 salvaging, 85–86 Sell-throughs, 71 survival/lessons, 86–87 complications, promotions pitch, 75–77 (impact), 71–72 planogram, creation, 78 reports, 80 profitability, increase, 84 Sensory branding, 106 racetrack layout, 72–73 Shot glasses collection, creation, 98 research/contact, 72–75 Signature scents, manufacture/ sell-through reports, 80 diffusion, 105 shipment delay, 87–88 Sihanouk, Norodom, 2 stock, depletion, 83–84 Soy, usage, 133–134 vendor Spa (Chesapeake Bay line), 139 size, transformation, 84 Spring, retail season (importance), 71 trainings, 79 Stand-alone pillars, usage, 110 visual merchandizers, Sunberg, David, 85, 105 interaction, 78 photo, 90, 105 Temple (fragrance offering), 102 Supply-chain disruptions, 79 Texture-forward glass vessels, 110 Süskind, Patrick, 98–99 Trends, examination, 96–97 Trump, Donald (rhetoric), 143 T Typhoon Babs, impact, 87 Target box candles, launch, 124 U buyers, team (photo), 80 Undesirables, reeducation collaboration, importance, 90 program, 8 customer demand, increase, 84 United Nations Development deal, 77–80 Programme (UNDP), Xu design/quality differentiation, (association), 23–25 focus, 78 United States, Xu arrival, 34 dissimulation, problems, 88 University of Maryland (College first order, 81–84 Park), Xu admission, 36–37 Graves, impact, 73–74 US-China Industrial Exchange (New “Heritage” collection, 141 York), Xu (job dissatisfaction/ Home Scent collection exit), 39–41, 44 (“Made in the USA”), 136 “Home Scents” collection, V 123, 125, 141 Vendor trainings (Target), 79 lead cap allotment, 77–78 Venture space, anti-merchant lean product-supply model, 79 prejudices, 63–64

Xu695929_bindex.indd 164 02-02-2021 17:02:28 Index 165

Vietnam X antidumping costs, zero level, 126 candles, assembly line (photo), 122 Xiaomin, Shang, 19 fashion-driven jar-candle business, Xiaoping, Deng, 2 popularity, 123 control, 16 manufacturing location, 121 economic liberalization agenda, 62 Vybar, usage (absence), 53 Xu family (photo), 5 Xu, Li, 14 W business partnership, 62 candle batch shipment, 68 Wall Street Journal, The manufacturing facility, updating, 63 (Xu reading), 39 photos, 5, 80, 104 Walsh, Sharon, 51 talent/studies, 14–15 Wang, David (photo), 80 Xu, Mei Washington Post, The (Xu reading), 39 Beijing, collegiate language Washington (DC), Xu arrival, 37 training, 22 Water-based diffuser, 106 Beijing Foreign Studies University Wax interview, 21 bleeding, 67 Bloomingdale’s visit, 42–43 cold throw, 134, 136 boarding school years, 13–20 consistency, achievement, cultural horizons, expansion, 19–20 134–135 cultural reflex, 88 cooling, interruption, 96 culture shock, 37–38 hot throw, 134 David/Mei (photo), 26 innovation, continuation, David, support, 41 110–111 designer in chief, role/impact, 96 oils/colors, blending, 53 design team (photo), 68 oils/dyes, interaction, 66 divorce, 137 receptacles, usage, 53 father, job (demand), 12 stones, melting, 66–67 Glen Burnie photo, 129 Well-being (promotion), fragrances growth mindset, 89 (impact), 114 hunger, 17–18 Wellness husband, meeting, 25–27 candles, production, 141–142 hyper-transparency, approach, 90 consumer search, 138 IFF visit, 114 industry, Chesapeake Bay journalism degree, graduation entry, 138–139 (1992), 39 White vanilla candle, creation, 66 language, learning, 17 Wholesale-focused trade shows, management meetings, 131 calendar (understanding), 44 margin assessment/financial Williams, Dale, 128 projections, delivery, 89 photo, 129 middle school entry, 15–22 World Bank mother, military training/educator China, debt, 25 (role/impact), 10–12 Xu, work, 23–25, 27, 29

Xu695929_bindex.indd 165 02-02-2021 17:02:28 166 Index

Xu, Mei (Continued) US-China Industrial Exchange move (Dalian), 29–30 (New York), job (quitting), 44 needs/self/wellness, US-China Industrial Exchange (New reconnection, 138 York), job dissatisfaction, 39–41 overcommunication, importance, 88 Washington (DC) parents, roles (demand), 10 arrival, 37 passport visit (Kalbermatten family), 37–39 granting, loophole/ World Bank, work, 23–25, 27, 29 bureaucracy, 34–36 Xu/Obama photo, 132 obtaining, tuition repayment (requirement), 30–31 Y photos, 3, 5, 80, 104, 105 Yaobang, Hu (death), 29 poise/confidence, increase, 90–91 YInMn Blue, patent, 87 products, debut (photo), 45 retirement, 104 Z Schock meeting, 75–77 social contact, importance, 42 Zedong, Mao, 60 transparency/honesty, shift, death, 16 88–89 First Five-Year Plan, 62 United Nations Development reeducation program, 8 Programme, association/ victory, 6 mission, 23–25 Zhu, Richard, 51–52, 89–90, 126 United States, arrival, 34 management meetings, 131 University of Maryland (College photo, 51 Park) admission, 36–37 Zodax, competition, 111–112

Xu695929_bindex.indd 166 02-02-2021 17:02:28