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Index A university district, student perception, 28 Aeppel, Timothy, 128 Beijing Foreign Studies University, Alcohol-based fragrance formulas, Xu interview, 21 experimentation, 112 Beijing University, ideas/progress, Alibaba, founding, 62 28–29 Allbirds, design leadership Biden, Joe, 131–132 (usage), 146–147 Bleeding (wax), 67 Alzheimer’s disease (AD), treatment Bloomingdale’s, 109 (objective), 12, 116–118 cross-merchandising, impact, 69 Ambers, compounding, 101 deal, 68–69 Ambiente trade show, 48, 59, 95, 96 orders, problems, 89 candles, (reevaluation), 49–50 pitch, 75 America Dream, 42, 54, 142 Xu visit, 42–43 Americans with Disabilities Act Body language, reading, 46–47 (ADA), 128 Boston Consulting Group, 131 Antidumping tariffs, impact, 120 Box stores, vendor entry Anti-merchant prejudices, 62–64 (difficulty), 70 Aphrodite, fragrant offering, 102 Brand Aroma Bay Candle (Vietnam identity, change, 59–60 factory), 121 sensory branding, 106 Aromatherapy, powers, 115, 139 transformation, 110 B COPYRIGHTEDvisual MATERIAL brand, generation, 141 Briefcase guy, 44 Bed Bath & Beyond Buildings deal, 70–73, 77, 121, 123 building-based fragrance stories, orders, problems, 89 awareness, 106 pitch, 75 fragrance stories, 105 replenishment vendor status, 72 Burn Beeswax, usage, 133–134 behavior, 66 Beijing non-draft burn tests, performing, 66 college, Xu arrival, 22 times, inconsistency, 67 Xu695929_bindex.indd 157 02-02-2021 17:02:27 158 Index C product design, improvement, 48–49 Calligraphy styles, 60 quality, ensuring, 64–65, 90, 123 “Candle Maker Feels Burned” (The regional quality, variation, 65–66 Wall Street Journal), 128–129 reorders, speed, 47 Candles stand-alone pillars, usage, 110 Ambiente trade show, 49–50, 59 Vybar, usage (absence), 53 analyses (Heymann), 94–95 white vanilla candle, creation, 66 assembly line (Vietnam) YInMn Blue, patent, 87 (photo), 122 Canton, haute cuisine capital, 10–11 bottom, wick (insertion), 66–67 Chanel No5, 100, 111 brand identity, change, 59–60 Chargeback, receiving (potential), 79 burn behavior, influences, 66 Chesapeake Bay (company) candle-making antidumping tariffs, impact, 120 elements, creative possibilities, 95 anti-merchant prejudices, 62–63 maturation, 73 Bed Bath & Beyond deal, 70–71 Chicago Gift Show success, 47–48 Bloomingdale’s deal, 68–69 classic collection, 97–98 box candles, Target launch, 124 colors/fragrances, 52 brand, transformation, 110 palette/vision, alignment, 52–53 buyers, advance 12-month cycle, 71 consistency, requirement, 61 candles, air-shipping, 85–86 cross-merchandising, 69 capital, search, 63–64 design-based innovation, 53–54 Chinese candle manufacturer, importance, 50 partnership, 61 finishes, 96 classic collection, 97–98 frosted appearance, 96 collaborators, 63–64 glass vessels, usage, 110 color/olfactory mixture, 66–67 glow candles company, creation, 59 business, 63 competition, 86, 125 popularity, 45–46 Copper Moon (fragrance), 109 jar candles, popularity, 125–126 design Kirkland’s orders, 47 focus, 91 life/longevity, answers, 46 process, travel (impact/ linen finish, production, 96 increase), 96–97 magic glow candles, studios, opening, 95 manufacture, 63 team, research, 97 New York International Gift Fair design-focused company, sales, reevaluation, 48–49 transformation, 95 non-draft burn tests, 66 design-forward brand, Chinese nonflammable home-fragrance counterparts (divergence), 60 products, pursuit, 110–111 failure, learning, 67 nonuniformity/uniqueness, Friday blue sky trend meetings, 98 problems, 70 Full Moon (fragrance), 109 oxygen-based (ozonic) candles, 134 Glen Burnie warehouse (Maryland), popularity, 45–46 manufacturing move, 127–131 Xu695929_bindex.indd 158 02-02-2021 17:02:27 Index 159 goodwill, leveraging, 125 sales, projections, 86 Great Recession, impact, 124–125 sell-throughs (complications), growth, 70 promotions (impact), 71–72 high-interest lending, usage, 64 shipment delay, 81–82, 87 “Home Scents” collection, 123, 125 small-batch orders, 133 humidifier, creation, 113 “Sonoma” jar-candle line, 123 inspiration library, 97 Spa line, 139 “Jasmine Water” (scent), 103 spring, retail season labor costs, increase, 124–125 (importance), 71 lead cap allotment (Target), 77–78 standard operating procedures, Lemongrass Eucalyptus (fragrance), updating, 67 103 tchotchke reputation, avoidance, 60 magic glow candles, Temple (fragrance offering), 102 manufacture, 63 travel, usage, 96–97 manufacturing locations, vendor size, transformation, 84 alternatives, 120–121 warehouse rental, 81–82 marketing, 67–68 wellness industry entry, 138–139 Mediterranean Citrus (fragrance), Chesapeake Bay (location) 103–104 olfactory identity, 108 Nordstrom deal, 70 peace, 58 Oak Moss Amber (fragrance), Chesapeake Bay/Target 103–104 collaboration, importance, 90 operational complexity, fears, 61 deal, 77–80 osmanthus, creation, 104 dissimulation, problems, 88 overseas production, increase, 80 first order, 81–84 personal savings, usage, 64 partnership pillar candles (photo), 54 salvaging, 85–86 Portu Sunberg, partnership, 84–85 survival/lessons, 86–87 process management/workflow, pitch, 75–77 assistance, 135–136 research/contact, 72–75 product sales, projection, 86 consistency, difficulty, 64–65 shipment delay, 87–88 cross-merchandising, 69 Chicago Gift Show, candles (sales nonuniformity/uniqueness, success), 47–48 problems, 70 China quality, ensuring, 64–65, 90, 123 bureaucracy, Xu navigation, 34–36 production control, consolidation, 7 establishment, 64 isolationism/internationalism, increase, 84 change, 16 profitability, increase, 84 Japan invasion (1937), 6 redistribution window, marketplace success, 62 reduction, 82 Open Door policy, 16 regional quality, variation, 65–66 self-expression, ideological replenishment vendor status, 72, 89 opposition, 60 revenue projections, problems, 85–86 Chu, Judy, 129 Xu695929_bindex.indd 159 02-02-2021 17:02:27 160 Index Cleopatra, fragrances (usage), 101 China consolidation, 7 Clinique, Happy (debut), 108 Enlai, Zhou (grandparent figure), 6–7 Cold throw, 134–136 Entrepreneurship, American Cold War, 7, 121 perception, 145–146 Color therapy, 139 Environmental factors, purple, popularity, 140 impact, 115–116 Communist Party, food Everlane, sustainability/ (rationing), 10 hypertransparency, 146–147 Consumer response, supply-chain management system response F (Target), 79 Falliday season, 47, 71–72 Copper Moon (fragrance), 109 discussion, 82 COVID-19 pandemic, impact, 120 fragrance stories, 103 Cross-merchandising, 69 stress, 74 Cultural Revolution (China), 2, 6, 28, Fancy Food Show, visit, 94 39, 51, 132–133 Fashion, global cultural Customer expression, 43 behavior projections, Fashion Week, 105 understanding, 79 Fields, Mark, 132 complaints, imagining, 83 First Five-Year Plan (Zedong), 62 demand, increase, 84 Food, indulgence (safety), 14 Fragrance D alcohol-based fragrance formulas, Dalian, 29–30, 34–36, 40–41 experimentation, 112 Dapoly, 51 cocktail-inspired fragrances, Democratization of design conception, 98 philosophy, 73–74 delivery, 109–114 Desenne, Carmen, 99–101 innovation, challenge, 111–113 Design leadership, usage, 146–147 effects, 114–115 Design/manufacturing combination, failures, 107–108 impact, 143–144 fragrance-based emotions, control/ Diffusers expression, 140–141 delivery, 112 graph, usage, 114–115 reed diffusers, 111–113 home fragrance, Chesapeake Bay exit, 138 E houses, contact (increase/ Emotions importance), 101 emotional response system, industry, start, 52 fragrances (impact), 114 infusions, usage (Chinese fragrance-based emotions, control/ doubts), 61 expression, 140–141 instructor, hiring, 52–53 End-of-season markdowns, 80 journey, 99–101 English Corners, emergence, 27 layering, 111 Enlai, Zhou legacy, 114–117 Xu695929_bindex.indd 160 02-02-2021 17:02:27 Index 161 natural fragrance-delivery systems, urban development, vestiges, 3–4 creation, 113 visit (1996), 61 notes, aspiration, 108–109 West Lake district, 58, 104 science, 108–109 Xu, birth, 3 signature scents, manufacture/ Hangzhou manufacturing facility diffusion, 105 failure, learning, 67 story failures, 106–107 photo, 65 storytelling, 101–109 securing, 64 “Fragrance first” vision, 135 standard operating procedures, Fragrance Foundation, updating, 67 invitation, 99–101 Happy (Clinique debut), 108 French Color & Fragrance Co., 52 Heilongjiang (reeducation camp), 8 French, Peter, 52, 61, 114 “Heritage” collection, 141 Friday blue sky trend meetings, 98 Heymann, Corina, 94, 98 Full Moon (fragrance), 109 candle analyses, 94–95 Hirsch, Alan R., 116 G Holiday season orders, discussion, 82 Gaokao (National College Entrance Home interiors Examination), 20–21 revolution, 43 Glen Burnie warehouse (Maryland) Xu/David research, 44 bureaucracy, navigation, 128–129 Home Scent collection manufacturing move, 127–131 (“Made in the USA”), 136 quality, 136–137 “Home Scents” collection, workforce, assembly, 130–131 123, 125, 141 Glow candles. See Candles Hong Kong, market Gorbachev, Mikhail, 29 experimentation, 28 Grasse (“Rome of scents”), 100, 135 Hot throw, 134 Grasses, preparation, 112 House of Chanel, rose source/ Graves, Michael, 73–74 compounds, 100 Gray goods, circulation, 13 Human emotions, coloring/ Great Depression, 42 perfuming, 139 Great Proletarian Cultural Human wellness (promotion), Revolution, focus, 11 fragrances (impact), 114 Great Recession, 120 Humidifier, creation, 113 impact, 124–125 I H Innovation, maximization Hangzhou (goal), 146 entrepreneurial mecca, growth, 62 Inspiration library, 97 harmony, 9–15 Intellectuals, perspective, 10 iron/steel mill,