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Nov - Dec 2020 Issue 97

Welsh Connections Discover Welsh Towns & Villages Pennal here’s a road from , which winds its way the . But it goes deeper than that and through the Dyfi Valley overseen by the Plynlimon further back than the years of slate in 1859, the quarries of Tand the Tarren Hills somewhat parallel, sometimes 1868 - 1906 and the 1920's railway for the timber. It goes not - to the Aberdyfi River. The road jogs its way a little back to 1406 when Owain Glyndŵr - Glyn Dŵr - wrote through a quiet cluster of nondescript buildings, a church, 'The Pennal Letter' at a synod of the Welsh Church. This a school, an inn, a few houses and then just after the second synod was in Pennal. blink of the eyes, you’re cruising south towards , Owain Glyndŵr - Owain ab Glyndyfrdwy, a natural leader just four miles away. In plain sight now, the river with its and statesman, held a strong lineage from the princes of water wide, deep and seemingly calm pulsing towards and in mid and Deheubarth in southwest Wales. under the and just like the river, deeper than He lived from circa 1349 to 1416. He revived the vision it seems, so are the cluster of houses just past, for that was of Llywelyn ap Gruffudd who died in 1282. In September Pennal. 1400 he drew Wales together and led the rebellion to throw Pennal. A village that goes deeper, deems more than the off English rule. He is quoted as “the father of democracy casual description of a few buildings on the A493 between in Wales”. Indeed, the Welsh champion of an autonomous Aberdyfi and Machynlleth, through which runs the Afon Wales. Pennal, a tributary of the Afon Dyfi. This historic letter, dated March 31st 1406, was address Is it that this tiny village in south encases the to King Charles VI of France. In it, Glyndŵr - crowned site of the Roman fort, Cefn Caer? That the ferry crossing Prince of Wales in 1404 at Parliament in Machynlleth, the off the Roman Road was on its list of duties? Is then capital of Wales, was asking for assistance in this cause it the pack-horse industry transporting slate from and to take Wales from under English rule. The French king ? Or is it the Cwm Ebol Quarry and Cwm Dwr was seeking support from his allies in regard to the Papacy timber works? Recent years tell of ’s writing dilemma occurring at the same time. Owain saw this as of the classic - Stairway to Heaven - right the opportunity. In return for supporting French Benedict here. Indeed Pennal is a part of heaven in this valley amidst XIII of Avignon as the Pope rather than Pope Innocent VII,

Dyfi Forest above Pennal Isaf © Ian Medcalf (cc-by-sa/2.0) welsh connections

St Peter ad Vincula Church © John Lucas (cc-by-sa/2.0) Owain Glyndŵr Llywelyn2000 (CC BY-SA 3.0) whom the English backed, there would be military support Since then, with the dedicated effort of the Owain for Owain in his quest for Welsh independence from Henry Glyndŵr Society, six replicas on seemingly authentic of Lancaster - King Henry IV. The letter outlined secular parchment paper with Glyndŵr’s seal arrived in Wales to and religious policies for Wales’ future. It was written in stay. In 2009, six identical copies of this rare Welsh artefact Latin. Some of the key elements laid forth were: the vision came home. of an independent church with the Archbishop’s seat in St They can be seen at Glyndŵr University in Wrexham, David’s instead of under the authority of the Archbishop the National Museum, the National Assembly in , of Canterbury; two universities: one in and the the National Library in Aberyswyth, the Owain Glyndŵr other in the south; a call for clergy with proficiency in the Centre in Machynlleth and St Peter ad Vincula Church here ; monies collected in Welsh churches to be in Pennal. kept in Wales. Not achieved then, but six hundred plus years In 2004, to commemorate the sixth hundredth anniversary later, much of what Owain sought is reflected today in the of Owain’s parliament and the princes of Gwynedd, a Welsh Parliament seated in Cardiff. Heritage Garden was created in this 6th century churchyard. The Pennal Letter - the original - is in the National The Garden holds a curved oak bench amidst native flowers, Archives in Paris - Archives Nationales de Paris. In 2000, shrubs and trees, memorial plaques, re-set gravestones and it returned to Wales for six months for the Owain Glyndŵr a statue of Owain Glyndŵr. A quiet place to sit and think Exhibition and was displayed at the National Library of about Pennal’s role in history. Wales in . Within the church sanctuary is the painting by Aneurin Jones titled “The Welsh Assembly of 1406”. The stained glass windows of St Peter are inspiring and beautiful. Under one of these sits a bust of Owain, draped with his standard sits. So there, it is – on the northern side of , with its own River Pennal in the county of (Sir Feirionnydd) in the boundaries National Park. And there is more: the new school, two chapels, walking trails. Many of the buildings are listed: the tithe barn cottages, Pont Pennal bridging the river, the Riverside Hotel, the Methodist Church and the Telephone Call Box standing against the St Peter ad Vincula. But at first sight - A church, a school and an inn as the road rolls on through quiet modesty. Just a cluster of buildings – not at all.

Words: Gillian Thomas The village of Pennal © John Lucas (cc-by-sa/2.0) Next issue: Gillian visits

Getting There By bus: Machynlleth has a train station located on Heol y Doll. From Machynlleth the X29 Bus goes through to Aberdyfi and Twywn and back with a stop in Pennal. By car: Minutes from Machynlleth on the A493. THIS PAGE IS INTENTIONALLY BLANK