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TRAILBLAZER Dorset-2 Back Cover-Q9_- 6/12/17 11:15 am Page 1 Dorset-2 00colour-Q9_PrelimsTemplate6/12/1711:09amPage1 third part, the South Devon and Dorset section, of the 630-mile South-West 630-mile the of section, Dorset and Devon South the part, third the covers miles) (217¼ Poole to Plymouth from path coast the to guide This ihd rvl rtr h hs o wre o egt ribae gie, and guides, Trailblazer eight on worked now has who writer travel lished authored more than 30 Lonely Planet books to destinations as far flung as Tibet This updated by updated and Mongolia. He specialises in China, where he lived for more than a decade, u h i fo te K n rlse ay potnt h gt t epoe the explore to gets he opportunity any relishes and UK the from is he but a nw akd l, r at f no trails. national five than fewer of, part or all, walked now has who Yoyo, fossil-loving daughter seven-year-old his Jurassic by the section of Coast much for panied accom- trip, latest this for path coast hiked and camped his way along the whole Daniel countryside. British on ail n wte (@daniel mccrohan). Twitter on Daniel down at : ac u wt ter adventures their with up Catch second edition second ailcrhncm o track or danielmccrohan.com, D ANIEL M of C C Dorset & South Devon Coast Path Coast Devon South & Dorset ROHAN . Daniel is a hardened hiker and widely-pub- and hiker hardened a is Daniel . Henry’s dog, dog, Henry’s J by written and researched walked, was edition first The series. this in book final the is and (SWCP) Path Coast eerhd n woe h to other two the wrote and researched ok i ti SC sre, plus series, SWCP Trailblazerother guides. numerous this in books OEL H Job: 700883 Title: Dorset & South Devon Coast Path Coast Devon South & Title:700883 Dorset Job: N ENRY EWTON S TEDMAN (left) accompanied by accompanied (left) D AISY was rewalked and rewalked was Te also They . fr et and left) (far DTP: FF Page: 1 Page: FF DTP:

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Dorset & South Devon Coast Path (SWCP Part 3) First edition: 2013; this second edition 2018 Publisher Trailblazer Publications The Old Manse, Tower Rd, Hindhead, Surrey, GU26 6SU, UK [email protected], www.trailblazer-guides.com British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 978-1-905864-94-2 © Trailblazer 2013, 2018: Text and maps Series Editor: Anna Jacomb-Hood Editor & layout: Anna Jacomb-Hood Cartography: Nick Hill Proof-reading: Jane Thomas Index: Anna Jacomb-Hood Photographs (flora): © Bryn Thomas All other photographs: © Daniel McCrohan unless otherwise indicated All rights reserved. Other than brief extracts for the purposes of review no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written consent of the publisher and copyright owner. S The maps in this guide were prepared from out-of-Crown- copyright Ordnance Survey maps amended and updated by Trailblazer.

Acknowledgements From Daniel Hugs and kisses to my darling daughter Yoyo for joining me on yet another fabulous Trailblazer adventure, and for introducing me to the fascinating world of ammonites, belemnites and crinoids – I hope your dreams of becoming the next Mary Anning come true. Thanks, too, to my mum, to Sam and Heidi, and to Cat and Steve Allan for helping with everything back in Guildford, and to Taotao and Dudu in China for their love and patience at such a trying time. Thanks to fellow authors Henry Stedman and Joel Newton for their magnificent work on the previous edition and huge gratitude to the team at Trailblazer HQ, particularly Anna Jacomb-Hood, Nick Hill, Jane Thomas and, of course, Bryn Thomas. And thank you, too, to all the Trailblazer readers who wrote in with comments and suggestions, in particular, David Mallinson, Helen Older, David Schache, Roland Thorpe and Janine Watson – keep ‘em coming!

A request The author and publisher have tried to ensure that this guide is as accurate and up to date as possible. Nevertheless, things change. If you notice any changes or omissions that should be included in the next edition of this book, please write to Trailblazer (address above) or email us at : [email protected]. A free copy of the next edition will be sent to persons making a significant contribution.

Warning: coastal walking and long-distance walking can be dangerous Please read the notes on when to go (pp13-16) and on outdoor safety (pp78-81). Every effort has been made by the authors and publisher to ensure that the information contained herein is as accurate and up to date as possible. However, they are unable to accept responsibility for any inconvenience, loss or injury sustained by anyone as a result of the advice and information given in this guide. Updated information will be available on: : www.trailblazer-guides.com Photos – Front cover On the path between West Bay and Burton Freshwater. This page: Durdle Door. Previous page: The white cliffs at Old Harry Rocks. Overleaf: Resting up at Burton Freshwater. (Photos © Daniel McCrohan). % Printed in China; print production by D’Print ( +65-6581 3832), Singapore

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Dorset &

South Devon

COAST PATH

SW COAST PATH PART 3 – PLYMOUTH TO POOLE

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INTRODUCTION P

About the Dorset & South Devon Coast Path U History of the South-West Coast Path 7 P How difficult is the Coast Path? 11 How long do you need? 12 – When to go 13 P PART 1: PLANNING YOUR WALK

Practical information for the walker W Route finding 17 – Accommodation 18 – Food and drink 21

Money 25 – Other services 25 – Walking companies 26

Information for foreign visitors 26

Budgeting 30 B

Itineraries Which direction? 31 – Suggested itineraries 31

Village and town facilities 32 – The best day and weekend walks 34 S Side trips 37 – Taking dogs along the path 38

What to take Keep your luggage light 39 – How to carry it 39 Footwear 40 – Clothes 40 – Toiletries 41 – First-aid kit 41 S General items 42 – Camping gear 42 – Money 42 Documents 43 – Maps 43 – Recommended reading 44 Sources of further information 46 D

Getting to and from the path National transport 48 – Getting to Britain 48 – Local transport 50 B Public transport map 53 PART 2: THE ENVIRONMENT & NATURE T

Conserving the Dorset & South Devon Coast Path 55

57 Geology T Flora and fauna Trees 62 – Flowers 63 – Mammals 65 – Reptiles 68 – Birds 68 Butterflies and moths 72

PART 3: MINIMUM IMPACT WALKING & OUTDOOR SAFETY A A Minimum impact walking B Economic impact 73 – Environmental impact 74 – Access 75 C Countryside code 76 I Outdoor safety Avoidance of hazards 78 – Weather and weather forecasts 80 C o n t e s Blisters 80 – Hypothermia, hyperthermia and sunburn 81 O

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PART 4: ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS

Using this guide 82 Exmouth to Sidmouth 197 Budleigh Salterton 200 Plymouth 84 Sidmouth 206 Plymouth to Wembury 94 Sidmouth to Seaton 211 Wembury 100 – Tackling the Branscombe Mouth 214 Yealm 100 – Noss Mayo & Beer 214 – Seaton 218 Newton Ferrers 104 Seaton to Lyme Regis 221

Wembury to Bigbury-on- Lyme Regis 226

Sea 105 – Tackling the Lyme Regis to Seatown 233

Erme 108 – Challaborough & Charmouth 234 – Seatown 238

Bigbury-on-Sea 111 Chideock 240 Bigbury-on-Sea to Salcombe Seatown to Abbotsbury 240 114 – Tackling the Avon 114 Eype Mouth 241 – West Bay Outer Hope 116 242 – Burton Bradstock 246

Salcombe 120 West Bexington 248 4 Salcombe to Slapton Turn South Dorset Ridgeway (aka

124 – East Prawle 128 Inland Route) 251 Beesands 131 – Torcross 131 Abbotsbury 256 Slapton 133 Abbotsbury to Fortuneswell Slapton Turn to Dartmouth 259 – Fortuneswell 266 134 – Strete 136 – Stoke Fortuneswell to Weymouth Fleming 138 – Dartmouth 140 (via Isle of Portland Circuit) Dartmouth to Brixham 145 268 – Weymouth 274 Kingswear 146 Weymouth to Lulworth Brixham 152 Cove 279 –Osmington Mills

Brixham to Torquay 155 280 – Lulworth Cove & Paignton 156 – Torquay 165 West Lulworth 286 Torquay to Teignmouth 169 Lulworth Cove to St Marychurch 172 Kimmeridge Bay 289 Maidencombe 174 – Shaldon When ranges are closed 293 174 – Teignmouth 178 Kimmeridge 297 Teignmouth to Exmouth 181 Kimmeridge Bay to Swanage Dawlish 184 – Dawlish 298 – Worth Matravers 300 Warren 184 – Cockwood 190 Swanage 304 Starcross 190 – Tackling the Swanage to South Haven Exe 190 – Exmouth 194 Point 308

APPENDICES A: Poole and Bournemouth 313 B: South Dorset Ridgeway Prehistoric Sites 314

C: Taking a dog 315 D: GPS waypoints 318 Map key 320

INDEX 321

OVERVIEW MAPS & PROFILES C o n t e s 327

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ABOUT THIS BOOK This guidebook contains all the information you need. The hard work has been done for you so you can plan your trip from home without spending hours on the internet or perusing the usual pile of books, maps and guides. When you’re all packed and ready to go, there’s comprehensive public transport information to get you to and from the trail and 97 T detailed route maps and 30 town plans to help you find your way C along it. The guide includes: d l All standards of accommodation with reviews of campsites, hos- h tels, B&Bs, guesthouses and hotels e l Walking companies if you want an organised tour and baggage- e transfer services if you just want your luggage carried a l Itineraries for all levels of walkers i l Answers to all your questions: when to go, degree of difficulty, w what to pack, and how much the whole walking holiday will cost S l Walking times in both directions and GPS waypoints l Cafés, pubs, tearooms, takeaways, restaurants and shops for buy- o ing supplies t l Rail, bus and taxi information for all places along the path t l Street plans of the main towns both on and off the path t l Historical, cultural and geographical background information i t t ❏ MINIMUM IMPACT FOR MAXIMUM INSIGHT t Man has suffered in his separation from the soil and from other living n creatures ... and as yet he must still, for security, look long at some por- tion of the earth as it was before he tampered with it. Gavin Maxwell, Ring of Bright Water, 1960 Why is walking in wild and solitary places so satisfying? Partly it is the sheer physical pleasure: sometimes pitting one’s strength against the ele- ments and the lie of the land. The beauty and wonder of the natural world and the fresh air restore our sense of proportion and the stresses and strains of everyday life slip away. Whatever the character of the country- b o k side, walking in it benefits us mentally and physically, inducing a sense of well-being, an enrichment of life and an enhanced awareness of what lies around us. All this the countryside gives us and the least we can do is to safeguard it by supporting rural economies, local businesses, and low-impact meth- t h i s ods of farming and land-management, and by using environmentally sen- sitive forms of transport – walking being pre-eminent. In this book there is a detailed and illustrated chapter on the wildlife and conservation of the region and a chapter on minimum-impact walking, with ideas on how to tread lightly in this fragile environment; by following its principles we can help to preserve our natural heritage for future generations. T A b o u t b

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k t INTRODUCTION ,

e 7 This book covers the last 217¼ miles (350km) of the South-West y Coast Path (SWCP), Britain’s longest national trail. The walk described begins on the Devon–Cornwall border, at Plymouth and, - having navigated Devon’s ¼ entire southern coastline, This book covers the last 217 - enters the county of Dorset miles of the 630-mile at Lyme Regis, before fin- South-West Coast Path ishing at South Haven Point, overlooking Poole Harbour. Together , with the two other books in this series, the entire 630 miles of the SWCP is covered. There are few, if any, stretches of the British coastline that can - offer the walker such variety, such interest – and such beauty – as this third and final leg of the coast path. From sun-drenched promenades to wild, remote cliff-tops, through ancient ‘apple-pie’ villages, tiny thatched hamlets and smart, friendly Georgian resorts, this path has it all. Indeed it is difficult to think of another section of any national trail that so comprehensively lives up to that well-worn cliché of the travel industry: that there is something for everyone. For historians the trail begins – most appropriately, given the many famous jour- neys that have departed from the same spot – at the Mayflower Steps,

The South Devon stretch of the Coast Path is sprinkled with tempting little Introduction beaches, like this one by the Cary Arms at Babbacombe (Map 35).

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Introduction 9 ______g The wildlife of today is not d without its merits either, from the y lovely deer of Lulworth to otters , in Axmouth. And while man has g done more than his fair share of shaping and utilising the land you d pass through, he has also been y careful to protect it too, with s numerous Sites of Special y Scientific Interest, several nature

p reserves and no fewer than three INTRODUCTION - Areas of Outstanding Natural s Beauty – with each encompassing Set in stone – an ammonite in Lyme Regis. a mile after mile of epic panoramas, , jagged sea stacks, and bountiful, beckoning beaches. There are also such spec- - tacular delights as the curious Undercliffs, moulded by landslides and decorat- ed by the free hand of nature into a truly English jungle; the south coast’s high-

The origins of the path, however, are much older than its official designation. Originally, the paths were established – or at least adopted, as the paths themselves had been connecting coastal villages for centuries – by the local coastguards in the 19th century; they needed a path that hugged the shoreline closely to aid them in their attempts to spot and prevent smugglers from bringing contraband into the country. The coastguards were unpopular in the area as they prevented the locals from exploit- ing a lucrative if illegal activity, to the extent that it was considered too dangerous for them to stay in the villages; as a result, the authorities were obliged to build special cottages for the coastguards that stood (and, often, still stand) in splendid isolation near the path – but well away from the villages. The lifeboat patrols also used the path to look out for craft in distress (and on one famous occasion used the path to drag their boat to a safe launch to rescue a ship in distress). When the coastguards’ work ended in 1856, the Admiralty took over the task of protecting England’s shoreline and thus the paths continued to be used. The route – Minehead (Somerset) to Poole Harbour (Dorset) SWCP 1 Minehead London The SWCP officially begins at Minehead in Bude ExeterExeter Somerset (its exact starting point marked by a Plymouth Poole SWCP 0 100km sculpture that celebrates the trail), heads west 2 SWCP 3 0 50 miles right round the bottom south-west corner of Britain then shuffles back along the south coast to South Haven Point, on the tip of Shell Bay, overlooking Poole Harbour in Dorset. On its lengthy journey around Britain’s south-western corner the SWCP crosses national parks such as Exmoor as well as regions that have been designated Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (including North, South and East Devon AONB and the Cornwall and Dorset AONBs) or Sites of Special Scientific Interest (Braunton Burrows being just one example – an area that also enjoys a privileged status as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve), and even two UNESCO World Heritage sites: the Jurassic Coast of East Devon and Dorset, and the old mining landscape of Cornwall and West Devon. (cont’d overleaf)

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How difficult is the path? 11 ______you’ve conquered the path. But those of you who started in Minehead, the beginning of the SWCP, will know that, whatever the hardships faced, the treas- ures of this endlessly fascinating path, are always worth any effort expended.

How difficult is the path?

The South-West Coast Path is just a (very, very) long walk, so there’s no need

for crampons, ropes, ice axes, oxygen bottles or any other climbing parapher- nalia, because there’s no climbing involved. All you need to complete the walk INTRODUCTION is some suitable clothing, a bit of money, a rucksack full of determination and a half-decent pair of calf muscles. The part of the SWCP that is covered by this book is perhaps the one with the most variety. Topographically speaking, there are plenty of steep ups-and- downs as well as large flat areas of walking on seaside promenades. While the Riviera (see box p146) provides walkers with an unbroken swathe of civilisa- tion, this book is bookended by two remote sections where settlements are

scarce and amenities are few and far between. These two sections, from Mount Batten Point to Salcombe and from Lulworth Cove to Swanage, require a little

Signposting is good: look for the acorn symbol. This signpost points the way to Golden Cap (see p239) which, at 191m (627ft), is the highest point on the south coast of England. (Photo ©Yoyo McCrohan)

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12 How difficult is the path? ______advanced planning to ensure you have something to eat and somewhere to rest your head for the night. Still, with the path well signposted (look for the acorn symbol) all the way along and the sea keeping you company for the entire stretch, it’s difficult to get lost (though it’s always a good idea to take a com- pass or GPS unit, just in case). As with any walk, you can minimise the risks by preparing properly. Your greatest danger on the walk is likely to be from the weather, which can be so S unpredictable in this corner of the world, so it is vital that you dress for ‘ inclement conditions and always carry a set of dry clothes with you. Not push- B ing yourself too hard is important too, as over-exertion leads to exhaustion and c

INTRODUCTIONall its inherent dangers (see pp78-81), so plan an itinerary that matches your i abilities rather than your (over-) ambitions. In terms of orientation, the South- m West Coast Path is very well signposted, so you shouldn’t lose your way. s However, we think that the distances the signposts have written on them can be i of questionable accuracy so are not always to be trusted; indeed sometimes even the spelling on the signposts is wrong. But in terms of helping you find your s way, the signposts on the SWCP do a terrific job and the trail authorities are to o be congratulated both on this and on the maintenance of the trail in general. c

r y How long do you need? f S People take an average of around 18 days to complete the walk; count on three F weeks in total to give you time to travel there and back. Of course, if you’re fit y there’s no reason why you can’t go p People take an average of around a little faster, if that’s what you want 18 days to complete the walk to do, and finish the walk in 15 days a or even less, though you will end up having a different sort of trek from most t of the other people on the trail. For whilst theirs might be a fairly relaxing hol- t iday, yours will be more of a sport. What’s more, you won’t have much time to e laze in the sun on the beaches, scoff scones in tearooms, visit an attraction or i two, or sup local beers under the shade of a pub parasol. t There’s nothing wrong with the fast approach, of course, but do make sure you don’t push yourself too fast, or too far. That road leads only to exhaus- S S tion, injury or, at the absolute least, an unpleasant time. a When deciding how long to allow for the trek, those intending to camp and a carry their own luggage shouldn’t underestimate just how much a heavy pack w can slow them down. On p34 and p35 there are some suggested itineraries cov- s ering different walking speeds. If t See pp34-5 for some you have only a few days, don’t try o suggested itineraries covering to walk it all; concentrate instead on t different walking speeds one area such as the coast path t through Dorset, the Riviera (see box p146), or the less-demanding section from f Plymouth to Salcombe or Dartmouth.

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16 When to go ______

°C JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC °F prepared for this, clothes-wise. 20° 68° 15° 59° Besides, walking in the rain can be 10° 50° fun, at least for a while: the gentle 5° 41° 0° 32° drumming of rain on hood can be N

O Average max/min temperatures – Lyme Regis quite relaxing, the path is usually I

T quiet, and if it really does chuck it C down at least it provides an excuse U mm JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC inch

D 120 4.68 to linger in tearooms and have that O 100 3.90 extra scone. And as long as you R

T 80 2.05 dress accordingly and take note of N

I 60 1.54 the safety advice given on pp78- 40 1.03 81, walking in moderate rain is no 20 0.51 more dangerous than walking at Average rainfall – Lyme Regis any other time – though do be careful, particularly on exposed JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC sections, if the path becomes slip- 5am ★ ★ ★ 7am SUNRISE pery or the wind picks up. 9am 11am 1pm DAYLIGHT HOURS 3pm 5pm ★ ★ If walking in winter, autumn or 7pm ★ 9pm ★ even early spring, you must take SUNSET ★ 11pm account of how far you can walk in Hours of daylight – Lyme Regis the available light. It won’t be possible to cover as many miles as you would in summer. Conversely, in the summer months there is enough available light until at least 9pm. Remember, too, that you will get a further 30-45 minutes of usable light before sunrise and after sunset depending on the weather.

(Below): You may wish to avert your eyes as you hurry along the beach at Studland. (Photo © Henry Stedman)

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PLANNING YOUR WALK 1

Practical information for the walker

ROUTE FINDING For most of its length the coast path is well signposted. At confusing junctions the route is usually indicated by a finger-post sign with ‘coast path’ written on it. At other points, where there could be some confusion, there are wooden waymark posts with an acorn symbol and a yellow arrow to indicate in which direction you should head. The waymarking is the responsibility of the local authorities along the trail who have a duty to maintain the path. Generally they do a good job but occasionally you will come across sections of the trail where waymarking is ambiguous, or even non-existent, but with the detailed trail maps and directions in this book and the fact that you always have the sea to one side it would be hard to get really lost. Using GPS with this book Given the above, modern Wainwrights may scoff at those who use GPS technology, but more open-minded walkers will accept that it can be an inexpensive, well-established if non-essential, navigational aid. In no time at all a GPS receiver with a clear view of the sky will establish your position and altitude in a variety of formats, including the British OS grid system, to within a few metres. The maps in the route guide include numbered waypoints; these correlate to the list on pp318-20, which gives the latitude/longitude position in a decimal minute format as well as a description. Where the path is vague, or there are several options, you will find more waypoints. You can download the complete list of these waypoints for free as a GPS-readable file (that doesn’t include the text descrip- tions) from the Trailblazer website: : trailblazer-guides.com (click on GPS waypoints). It’s also possible to buy state-of-the-art digital mapping to import into your GPS unit, assuming that you have sufficient memory capacity, but it’s not the most reliable way of navigating and the small screen on your pocket-sized unit will invariably fail to put places into context or give you the ‘big picture’. Dorset-2 01-03_Prelims Template 05/12/2017 22:15 Page 5

Accommodation 21 ______Hotels usually do cost more than B&Bs, however, and some can be a little perturbed with a bunch of smelly trekkers turning up and treading mud into their carpet. Most on the South-West Coast Path, however, are used to seeing trekkers and welcome them warmly. Rates Rates in this guide are quoted on a per person (pp) basis, assuming two people are sharing a room. Solo walkers should note: single rooms are not easy to find and you will often end up in a double/twin room and are likely therefore to have to pay a single occupancy rate; this is often the room rate less about £10, or may even be the full room rate in peak season. B&B accommodation in this guide starts at around £30pp for the most basic B&Bs (from £20pp room only), rising to around £60pp for the most luxurious places; most charge around £35-45pp. Rates in guesthouses, pubs and inns are similar to B&Bs but hotel tariffs start at around £45pp and can go up to £200pp for a room with a sea view in the summer. Note that at some hotels the rate is room only. Most places have their own website and offer online/email booking but for many you will need to phone to book a room especially for a single-night stay. Most places ask for a deposit (about 50%) which is generally non-refundable if you cancel at short notice. Some places may charge 100% if the booking is for one night only and many require a stay of at least two nights for an advance booking. Always let the owner know as soon as possible if you have to cancel your booking so they can offer the bed to someone else. Hotels and guesthouses generally take credit or debit cards but most smaller B&Bs only accept cheques by post, or payment by bank transfer, for the deposit; the balance can be settled with cash or a cheque. Airbnb The rise and rise of Airbnb (: airbnb.co.uk) has seen private homes and apartments opened up to overnight travellers on an informal basis. While PLANNING YOUR WALK accommodation is primarily based in cities, the concept is spreading to tourist hotspots in more rural areas, but do check thoroughly what you are getting and the precise location. While the first couple of options listed may be in the area you’re after, others may be far too far afield for walkers. At its best, this is a great way to meet local people in a relatively unstructured environment, but do be aware that these places are not registered B&Bs, so standards may vary, yet prices may not necessarily be any lower than the norm.

FOOD AND DRINK Stay in a B&B and you’ll be filled to the gills with a cooked ‘full-English’ breakfast. This tends to follow a choice of cereals that will have been laid out for you to graze on while you wait for the main event, which usually consists of a plateful of eggs, bacon, sausages, mushrooms, tomatoes and possibly baked beans or black pudding, with toast and butter, and all washed down with coffee, tea and/or juice. Enormously satisfying the first time you try it, but by the fourth or fifth morning you and your arteries may start to prefer a lighter continental breakfast. (cont’d on p24) Dorset-2 01-03_Prelims Template 05/12/2017 22:15 Page 10

26 Practical information for the visitor ______WALKING COMPANIES It is, of course, possible to turn up with your boots and backpack at Plymouth and just start walking, with little planned save for your accommodation (see box on p18). The following companies, however, are in the business of making your holiday as stress-free and enjoyable as possible. Several companies offer what are known as self-guided holidays (see pp28-9), where your accommodation, transport at the start/end of the walk and baggage transfer along the trail are

o Information for foreign visitors l Currency The British pound (£) comes in notes of £100, £50, £20, £10 and £5, and coins of £2 and £1. The pound is divided into 100 pence (usually referred to as ‘p’, pronounced ‘pee’) which comes in silver coins of 50p, 20p, 10p and 5p, and copper coins of 2p and 1p. l Money Up-to-date rates of exchange can be found on : www.xe.com/currency converter, at some post offices, or at any bank or travel agent. l Business hours Most village shops are open Monday to Friday 9am-5pm and Saturday 9am-12.30pm, though some open as early as 7.30/8am; many also open on Sundays but not usually for the whole day. Occasionally you’ll come across a local shop that closes at lunchtime on one day during the week, usually a Wednesday or Thursday; this is a throwback to the days when all towns and villages had an ‘early closing day’. Supermarkets are open Monday to Saturday 8am-8pm (often longer) and on Sunday from about 9am to 5 or 6pm, though main branches of supermarkets generally open 10am-4pm or 11am-5pm. Main post offices generally open Monday to Friday 9am-5pm and Saturday 9am-12.30pm though where the branch is in a shop PO services are sometimes available whenever the shop is open; banks typically open at 9.30/10am Monday to Friday and close at 3.30/4pm, though in some places both post offices and banks may open only two or three days a week and/or in the morning, or limited hours, only.

PLANNINGATMs YOUR WALK(cash machines) located outside a bank, shop, post office or petrol station are open all the time, but any that are inside will be accessible only when that place is open. However, ones that charge, such as Link machines, may not accept foreign- issued cards. Pub hours are less predictable as each pub may have different opening hours. However, most pubs on the Path open daily 11am-11pm (some close at 10.30pm on Sunday) but some close in the afternoon especially in the winter months. The last entry time to most museums and galleries is usually half an hour, or an hour, before the official closing time. l National holidays Most businesses in the South-West are shut on 1st January, Good Friday and Easter Monday (March/April), first and last Monday in May, last Monday in August, 25th December and 26th December. l School holidays State-school holidays in England are generally as follows: a one- week break late October, two weeks over Christmas and the New Year, a week mid February, two weeks around Easter, one week at the end of May/early June (to coincide with the bank holiday at the end of May) and five to six weeks from late July to early September. Private-school holidays fall at the same time, but tend to be slightly longer. l Documents If you are a member of a National Trust organisation in your country bring your membership card as you should be entitled to free entry to National Trust properties and sites in the UK (see p57). Dorset-2 01-03_Prelims Template 05/12/2017 22:15 Page 15

Itineraries 31 ______of lunch and dinner and you should reckon on about £45-50pp minimum per day. Staying in a guesthouse or hotel would probably push the minimum up to £55-60pp.

Itineraries

Part 4 of this book has been written from west to east, though there is of course nothing to stop you from tackling it in the opposite direction, and there are advantages in doing so – see below. To help plan your walk see the colour maps and gradient profiles (at the end of the book) and the table of town and village facilities (pp32-3), which gives a run-down on the availability of services including accommodation. You could follow one of the suggested itineraries (see p34 & p35) which are based on preferred type of accommodation and walking speeds or, if tackling the entire walk seems a bit ambitious, you can tackle it a day or two at a time. To help you, we discuss the highlights of the Dorset & South Devon Coast Path on pp36-7 and you can use public transport to get to the start and end of the walk. The public transport map and service details are on pp51-4. Once you have an idea of your approach turn to Part 4 for detailed information on accommodation, places to eat and other services in each village and town on the route. Also in Part 4 you will find summaries of the route to accom- pany the detailed trail maps.

WHICH DIRECTION?

It’s more common for walkers attempting the entire SWCP to start from PLANNING YOUR WALK Minehead and finish at South Haven Point and this is the way the route is described in Part 4. Furthermore, the prevailing wind usually comes from the west so, by walking in this direction, you’ll find you have the weather behind you for the section described in this book, pushing you on rather than driving in your face. That said, if this is your first taste of the coast path – and you think you’re going to continue one day and complete the rest of the 630-mile trek – you may prefer to start at South Haven Point and finish at Plymouth. Those who prefer to swim against the tide of popular opinion and walk east to west should find it easy to use this book too.

SUGGESTED ITINERARIES The itineraries in the boxes on p34 and on p35 are based on different accommodation types (camping and B&B-style accommodation), with each divided into three alternatives depending on your walking speed. They are only suggestions so feel free to adapt them. Don’t forget to add your travelling time before and after the walk. Dorset-2 01-03_Prelims Template 05/12/2017 22:15 Page 18

34 Itineraries ______

CAMPING Relaxed Medium Fast Place Approx Place Approx Place Approx Distance Distance Distance Night miles km miles km miles km

0 Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth 1 Wembury* 10¾ 17.25 Wembury* 10¾ 17.25 Wembury* 10¾ 17.25 2 Bigbury 15¼ 24.5 Bigbury 15¼ 24.5 Bigbury 15¼ 24.5 3 Salcombe* 12½ 20 Salcombe* 12½ 20 East Prawle* 18½ 29.75 4 East Prawle* 7 11.25 East Prawle* 7 11.25 Stoke Flm’g 13¼ 21.25 5 Slapton* 8¾ 14 Stoke Fleming 13¼ 21.25 Brixham 15¼ 24.5 6 Stoke Fleming 4½ 7.25 Brixham 15¼ 24.5 Shaldon 16½ 26.5 7 Brixham 15¼ 24.5 Goodrington* 4½ 7.5 Budleigh Sn 13½ 21.75 8 Goodrington* 4½ 7.5 Shaldon* 12½ 20 Seaton* 17¼ 27.75 9 Shaldon* 12½ 20 Exmouth* 8 13 Seatown 14¼ 23 10 Exmouth* 8 13 Budleigh Sn* 5½ 9 East Fleet 19¼ 31 11 Budleigh Sn* 5½ 9 Beer 16 25.5 Fortuneswell*§ 16 25.75 12 Ladram Bay∆ 7 11.25 Charmouth 11½ 18.5 Durdle Door 16 25.75 13 Beer 9 14.5 West Bay 7 11.25 Kimmeridge§§ 7¼ 11.75 14 Charmouth 11½ 18.5 East Fleet 16½ 26 Worth Matrvs**7½ 12 15 West Bay 7 11.25 Fortuneswell* 6¼ 10 S Haven Pt† 13½ 21.5 16 West Fleet* 14 22.5 Osmington M§ 19½ 31.5 17 Fortuneswell* 8½ 13.5 Durdle Door 6¼ 10 18 Fortuneswell*§ 9¾ 15.75 Kimmeridge§§ 7¼ 11.75 19 Osmington M 9¾ 15.75 Worth Matrvs** 7½ 12 20 Durdle Door 6¼ 10 S Haven Point†13½ 21.5 21 Kimmeridge§§ 7¼ 11.75 22 Worth Matrvs** 7½ 12 ∆ Ladram Bay Holiday Park (see p204) 23 S Haven Point† 13½ 21.5 § After Isle of Portland circuit PLANNING* On YOUR this WALK chart we have not included in the mile counts the distance from the path to the campsite, which can be a mile or more. The campsites that are a significant distance off the path are marked with an asterisk. Consult the route guide for distances. Remember to factor these into your walk when calculating the distance you will walk for any one stage. ** Open mid summer only (see p300) §§ Distance via Lulworth Ranges † From S Haven Point cross to Sandbanks for buses to Poole or Bournemouth (p313)

THE BEST DAY AND WEEKEND WALKS We think that this leg of the South-West Coast Path is the most varied of the three and thus deserves to be walked in its entirety. But, if you don’t have the time for that, the following will allow you to savour at least some of the joys of this walk. The routes on pp36-7 are designed to link up with public transport (see pp50-4) at both their start and finish; the only places where there are no services are Bigbury-on-Sea, West Bexington and Kimmeridge. The lack of services to Kimmeridge is particularly annoying as it sits at the end of possibly the most spectacular stage, over the Lulworth Ranges. But if you have a weekend free you can take one path through the ranges on one day – then walk back to Lulworth Cove on the alternative (inland) trail the next. Dorset-2 01-03_Prelims Template 05/12/2017 22:15 Page 32

48 Getting to and from the Coast Path ______

Getting to and from the Coast Path

All the major towns along the coast path are reasonably well served by rail and/ or coach services from the rest of Britain. Travelling by train or coach is the most convenient way to get to the trail as you do not need to worry about where to leave your car, how safe it will be while you’re walking, or how to get back to it at the end of your holiday. Choosing to travel by public transport is also choosing to help the environment; a creative step in minimising your impact on the countryside. It can also be an enjoyable experience in itself. How many of us have fond memories of relaxing to the regular rattle of the train wheels while sleepily watching the scenery pass by?

NATIONAL TRANSPORT

By train ☎ The main Devon line (operated by Great Western Railways, 0345-700 0125, : gwr.com) runs from London Paddington through Exeter to Plymouth, with

o GETTING TO BRITAIN l By air The best international gateway to Britain for the Dorset & South Devon Coast Path is London; its most convenient airports are Heathrow (: heathrowair port.com) and Gatwick (: gatwickairport.com). Exeter Airport (: exeter-airport.co.uk), Southampton (: southamptonairport PLANNING.com) YOUR WALK and Bournemouth (: bournemouthairport.com) are closer to the walk and have international flights though mostly from Europe only. l From Europe by train Eurostar (: eurostar.com) operates a high-speed passen- ger service via the Channel Tunnel between Paris, Brussels and Lille and London. The Eurostar terminal in London is at St Pancras International with connections to the London Underground and to all other main railway stations in London. Trains to Dorset and Devon leave from Paddington station (Great Western Railway) and also from Waterloo (South Western Railway); see below for details. There are also various rail services from mainland Europe to Britain; for more information contact your national rail provider or Railteam (: railteam.eu). l From Europe by coach Eurolines (: eurolines.com) have a wide network of long-distance bus services connecting over 500 destinations in 25 European countries to London (Victoria Coach Station). l From Europe with a car There are ferry services that operate between: Santander/Roscoff and Plymouth; Cherbourg/St Malo/Caen and Poole/Portsmouth; Le Havre and Portsmouth; Calais and Dover; Dunkirk and Dover; Rotterdam/ Zeebrugge and Hull; Dublin and Liverpool. Look at : ferrysavers.com or : www .directferries.com for a full list of companies and services. Eurotunnel (: eurotunnel.com) operates ‘le shuttle’, a shuttle train service for vehicles via the Channel Tunnel between Calais and Folkestone (4/hr; 35 mins). Dorset-2 01-03_Prelims Template 05/12/2017 22:15 Page 36

52 Getting to and from the Coast Path ______

o PUBLIC TRANSPORT SERVICES Bus services (cont’d from p51) First in Wessex Dorset & South Somerset (cont’d) X55 (Jurassic Coaster) Weymouth to Wool railway station via Osmington, Durdle Door & Lulworth Cove, late May to early Sep daily 3/day 500 (Jurassic Coaster) Bowleaze Cove to Weymouth Pavilion (connects with the 501), May-Sep daily 1/hr 501 (Jurassic Coaster) Weymouth (Pavilion) to Portland Bill via Wyke Regis, Portland, Easton & Southwell, late May to early Sep daily 4-8/day, Apr & May weekends only 510 (SLOWcoaster) Bridport to Weymouth via West Bay, Freshwater, Burton Bradstock, Hive Beach, Abbotsbury, Ferrybridge & Portland, late May to early Sep, daily 3/day Stagecoach South West (: www.stagecoachbus.com) 2 Newton Abbot to Exeter Bus Station via Teignmouth, Dawlish, Dawlish Warren & Starcross, Mon-Sat 3/hr, Sun 1/hr 3 Plymouth to Dartmouth via Brixton, Yealmpton, Aveton Gifford, Kingsbridge, Torcross, Slapton, Slapton Turn, Strete, Blackpool & Stoke Fleming, Mon-Sat 11/day, summer Sun 2/day Kingsbridge to Dartmouth. 9 Exeter to Honiton via Sidmouth, Mon-Sat 1/hr 9A Exeter to Lyme Regis via Sidmouth, Sidford, Seaton & Axmouth, Mon-Sat 1/hr, Sun 4/day plus 1/day to Seaton and 2/day from Sidmouth hop12 Newton Abbot to Brixham via Torquay, & Paignton, Mon-Sat 6/hr, Sun 4/hr 18/18AKingswear to Brixham, Mon-Sat 2/hr, Sun 1/hr 20 Taunton to Seaton via Honiton, Mon-Sat 3/day hop22 Dawlish Warren to Paignton via Teignmouth, Shaldon, St Marychurch, Maidencombe & Torquay, Mon-Sat 1/hr plus 2/hr St Marychurch to Paignton, Sun 1/hr 46 Exeter Bus Station to Torquay, Mon-Sat 4/day PLANNING48 YOUR PlymouthWALK to Wembury via Plymstock, Mon-Sat 6/day 56 Exeter St David’s Station to Exmouth via Exeter Bus Station, Exeter Airport, & Lympstone, Mon-Sat 1/hr, Sun 1/hr to Exeter Airport, Sun 1/hr 56B Exeter St David’s Station to Sidmouth via Exeter Bus Station, Exeter Airport & Honiton, late May-mid Sep Sun 3/day 57 Exeter Bus Station to Brixington via Topsham, Lympstone & Exmouth, Mon-Sat 4/hr, Sun 2/hr (Stagecoach Gold) 58 Exeter to Budleigh Salterton via Exmouth, Mon-Fri 5/day X64 Exeter to Dartmouth via Newton Abbot & Totnes, Mon-Sat 6/day. Sun 2/day Stagecoach Gold (SG) Plymouth to Torquay via Totnes, Ivybridge & Paignton, Mon-Sat 2/hr, Sun 1/hr 120 Paignton Bus Station to Kingswear (for ferry to Dartmouth), Mon-Sat 1/hr 157 Exmouth to Sidmouth via Budleigh Salterton, Mon-Sat 1/hr, Sun summer 4/day 357 Exmouth to Budleigh Salterton, daily 1/hr 164 Totnes to Kingsbridge, Sun 2/day, 1/day continues to Salcombe; see also Tally Ho Rail River Link Bus (: www.dartmouthrailriver.co.uk/tours/no100-bus-service) 100 Totnes to Paignton, Apr to end Oct daily 9/day, late Oct to Apr Mon-Fri 5/day South West Coaches (: www.southwestcoaches.co.uk) 206A/B Weymouth circular route to Wyke Regis, Mon-Sat 2/hr (cont’d on p54) Dorset-2 01-03_Prelims Template 05/12/2017 22:15 Page 39

THE ENVIRONMENT 2 AND NATURE

Conserving the Dorset & South Devon Coast Path

Britain is an overcrowded island and England is the most densely pop- ulated part of it. As such, the English countryside has suffered a great deal of pressure from both over-population and the activities of an ever more industrialised world. Thankfully, there is some enlightened legislation to protect the surviving pockets of forest and heathland. Beyond these fragments, it is interesting to note just how much man has altered the land he lives on. Whilst the aesthetic costs of such intrusions are open to debate, what is certain is the loss of biodiversity that has resulted. The last wild boar was shot a few centuries ago; add to its demise the extinction of bear and wolf as well as, far more recently, a number of other species lost or severely depleted and you get an idea of just how much an influence man has over the land and how that influence is all too often used negatively. There is good news, however. In these enlightened times when environmental issues are quite rightly given more precedence, many endangered species, such as the otter, have increased in number thanks to the active work of voluntary conservation bodies. There are other reasons to be optimistic; the environment is no longer the least important issue in party politics and this reflects the opinions of everyday people who are concerned about issues such as conservation on both a local and global scale.

CONSERVATION SCHEMES – WHAT’S AN AONB? It is perhaps the chief joy of this walk that much of it is spent in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. But what exactly is this designation and what protection do designations such as this actually confer? Natural England (: gov.uk/government/organisations/natural- england) is the single body responsible for identifying, establishing and managing National Parks, AONBs, NNRs, SSSIs and Special Areas of Conservation (SACs), see p56. National parks The highest level of landscape protection is the designation of land as a national park (: nationalparks.gov.uk). There are 15 in Britain of which nine are in England. This designation recognises the national importance of an area in terms of landscape, biodiversity and as a Dorset-2 01-03_Prelims Template 05/12/2017 22:15 Page 43

Geology – Eons, eras and periods 59 ______

Triassic Cretaceous Jurassic Geology of the coastline

Salcombe Easterly dip in Sidmouth High Hill layers of rock Peak Branscombe Beer

Exmouth Budleigh Ladram Salterton Bay Beer Head Orcombe Otter Point Estuary

Golden West Charmouth Cap Seatown Burton Bay Bradstock Lyme Regis Axe Estuary Pinhay Bay Seaton

Axmouth–Lyme Regis Undercliffs

West Osmington Bexington Abbotsbury Mills

Ringstead The Fleet Bay White Nothe

Chesil Beach Weymouth Isle of Portland

South Haven Point Studland West Army Old Harry Lulworth Ranges Isle of Rocks Purbeck

Durdle Swanage Door Fossil Forest Worth Matravers Lulworth Cove/ Kimmeridge Durlston Stairhole Bay Head Dancing Purbeck THE ENVIRONMENT & NATURE St Aldhelms Beds Head Ledge Dorset-2 C1-3-Q9_Flowers 001-004_25219 6/12/17 1:59 pm Page 2

C2 Common flora ______

Common Dog Violet Common Centaury Honeysuckle Viola riviniana Centaurium erythraea Lonicera periclymemum

Ramsons (Wild Garlic) Germander Speedwell Herb-Robert Allium ursinum Veronica chamaedrys Geranium robertianum

Lousewort Self-heal Scarlet Pimpernel Pedicularis sylvatica Prunella vulgaris Anagallis arvensis

Sea Campion Bluebell Hogweed Silene maritima Hyacinthoides non-scripta Heracleum sphondylium

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Coast Path Job: 700883 Title: Dorset & South Devon Coast Path flower_4 DTP: FF Page: flower_5 Dorset-2 C4ff-layout-Q9_Prelims Template 11/12/17 10:11 am Page 8

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MINIMUM IMPACT & 3 OUTDOOR SAFETY

Minimum impact walking

By visiting this rural corner of England you are having a positive impact, not just on your own well-being but on local communities as well. Your presence brings money and jobs into the local economy and also pride in and awareness of the region’s environment and culture. However, the environment should not just be considered in terms of its value as a tourist asset. Its long-term survival and enjoyment by future generations will only be possible if both visitors and local communities protect it now. The following points are made to help you reduce your impact on the environment, encourage conservation and promote sustainable tourism in the area.

ECONOMIC IMPACT Rural businesses and communities in Britain have been hit hard in recent years by a seemingly endless series of crises. Most people are aware of the countryside code – not dropping litter and closing the gate behind you are still as pertinent as ever – but in light of the economic pressures that local countryside businesses are under, there is something else you can do: buy local. Look and ask for local produce (see box pp22-3) to buy and eat. Not only does this cut down on the amount of pollution and conges- tion that the transportation of food creates – so-called ‘food miles’ – but also ensures that you are supporting local farmers and producers, the very people who have moulded the countryside you have come to see and who are in the best position to protect it. If you can find local food which is also organic so much the better. Money spent at local level – perhaps in a market, or at the green- grocer, or in an independent pub – has a far greater impact for good in that community than the equivalent spent in a branch of a national chain store or restaurant. It would be going too far advocate that walkers boycott the larger supermarkets, which after all do provide local employment, but it’s worth remembering that smaller businesses in rural communities rely heavily on visitors for their very exis- tence. If we want to keep these local shops and post offices, we need to use them. Dorset-2 01-03_Prelims Template 05/12/2017 22:15 Page 62

78 Minimum impact trekking ______Right to roam For many years groups such as Ramblers (see box p46) and the British Mountaineering Council (: thebmc.co.uk) campaigned for new and wider access legislation. This finally bore fruit in the form of the Countryside and

Rights of Way Act of November 2000, collo- TEDMAN quially known as the CRoW Act, which grant- S ed access for ‘recreation on foot’ to mountain, ENRY moor, heath, down and registered common © H land in England and Wales. In essence it There may be a good reason why allows walkers the freedom to roam responsi- you shouldn’t take a short cut. bly away from footpaths, without being

MINIMUM accusedIMPACT & OUTDOOR SAFETY of trespass, on about four million acres of open, uncultivated land. On 28th August 2005 the South-West became the sixth region in England and Wales to be opened up under this act; however, restrictions may still be in place from time to time – check the situation on : www.gov.uk/right-of-way- open-access-land/use-your-right-to-roam.

Outdoor safety

AVOIDANCE OF HAZARDS Swimming If you are not an experienced swimmer or familiar with the sea, plan ahead and swim at beaches where there is a lifeguard service, such as Exmouth, Teignmouth and Dawlish Warren. On such beaches you should swim between the red and yellow flags as this is the patrolled area. Don’t swim between black and white chequered flags as these areas are only for surfboards. A red flag fly- ing indicates that it is dangerous to enter the water. If you are not sure about anything ask one of the lifeguards; after all they are there to help you. If you are going to swim at unsupervised beaches never do so alone and always take care; some beaches are prone to strong rips. Never swim off headlands or near river mouths as there may be strong currents. Always be aware of changing weather conditions and tidal movement (see box opposite). The South- West has a huge tidal range and it can be very easy to get cut off by the tide. If you see someone in difficulty do not attempt a rescue until you have con- tacted the coastguard (see box p80). Once you know help is on the way try to assist the person by throwing something to help them stay afloat. Many beaches have rescue equipment located in red boxes; these are marked on the trail maps. For a safer place to swim, look out for outdoor swimming pools, known as lidos. Plymouth’s Art-Deco, salt-water Tinside Lido (p86) is a striking example, but there’s also a small lido in Teignmouth (p178). There are also free-to-use Dorset-2 04a_Layout 1 05/12/2017 22:21 Page 2

4 ROUTE GUIDE & MAPS

Using this guide

While this guide has been divided into stages, each of which approx- imates a day’s walk, they are meant as a guide only. To plan an itinerary that better suits your pace, fitness and the time you have available, please see the ‘Suggested itineraries’ section on p31. The route summaries below describe the trail between significant places and are written as if walking the coast path from Plymouth to South Haven Point (Poole Harbour). To enable you to plan your own itinerary, practical information is presented clearly on the trail maps. This includes walking times, all places to stay, camp and eat, as well as shops where you can buy supplies. Further service details are given in the text under the entry for each place. For a condensed overview of this information see the town and village facilities table on pp32-3.

TRAIL MAPS Scale and walking times The trail maps are to a scale of 1:20,000 (1cm = 200m; 31/8 inches = one mile). Walking times are given along the side of each map and the arrow shows the direction to which the time refers. Black trian- gles indicate the points between which the times have been taken. See the note on walking times in the box opposite. The time-bars are a tool and are not there to judge your walking ability. There are so many variables that affect walking speed, from the weather conditions to how many beers you drank the previous evening. After the first hour or two of walking you will be able to see how your speed relates to the timings on the maps. Up or down? Other than when on a track or bridleway the trail is shown as a dot- ted line. An arrow across the trail indicates the slope; two arrows show that it is steep. Note that the arrow points towards the higher part of the trail. If, for example, you are walking from A (at 80m) to B (at 200m) and the trail between the two is short and steep it would be shown thus: A— — — >> — — – B. Reversed arrow heads indicate a downward gradient. GPS waypoints The numbered GPS waypoints refer to the list on pp318-20. Dorset-2 04a_Layout 1 05/12/2017 22:21 Page 3

Using this guide 83 ______

o Important note – walking times Unless otherwise specified, all times in this book refer only to the time spent walking. You will need to add 20-30% to allow for rests, photography, checking the map, drinking water etc. When planning the day’s hike count on 5-7 hours of actual walking.

Accommodation Apart from in large towns where some selection of places has been necessary, almost every place to stay that is within easy reach of the trail is marked. Details of each place are given in the accompanying text. The number of rooms of each type is indicated as follows: S = single bed, T = twin beds, D = double bed, Tr = triple room (for three people) and Qd = quad (for four). Note that most of the Tr/Qd rooms have a double bed and one/ two single beds or bunk beds; thus for a group of three or four, two people may have to share the double bed but the room can also be used as a double or twin. Rates quoted are per person (pp) based on two people sharing a room for a one-night stay; rates are almost always discounted for longer stays. Where a single room (sgl) is available the rate for that is quoted if different from the per person rate. The rate for single occupancy (sgl occ) of a double/twin is generally higher, and the rate for three or more sharing a room may be lower. Unless specified, rates are for B&B. At some places the only option is a room rate; this will be the same whether one or two people share. Many places do not accept advance bookings for a single-night stay at peak times; the minimum is often two, or even, three nights. However, if you turn up on the day, or even call a few nights before, they may accept a booking. Most B&Bs don’t accept credit/debit cards but hotels usually do.

The text also mentions whether the premises have wi-fi (WI-FI); if a bath is ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS available () in, or for, at least one room; and whether dogs () are welcome. Most places will not take more than one dog in a room and also accept them subject to prior arrangement. Some make an additional charge (usually per night but occasionally per stay) while others may require a deposit which is refundable if the dog doesn’t make a mess. See also pp315-17. Prices for camping vary from site to site. Some charge per pitch (and sometimes with an additional charge for a second person), some per person. Note that

o Food and drink planning Remember, to plan ahead: certain stretches of the walk are virtually devoid of eating places (Kingswear to Brixham, Seaton to Lyme Regis, Abbotsbury to Wyke Regis, Lulworth Cove to Kimmeridge Bay and from there to Swanage, as well as the South Dorset Ridgeway) so read ahead about the next day’s walk to make sure you never go hungry. See also box p22. The opening days and hours for pubs, restaurants and cafés mentioned are as accurate as possible but often if the weather is bad, or there is no demand, places will close early or not open at all so it is worth checking in advance, especially if there are few eating places in the area. Dorset-2 04a_Layout 1 05/12/2017 22:21 Page 4

84 Using this guide ______the larger holiday parks, whose priorities lie with longer-stay families and groups, do still often have special rates for hikers that are cheaper than the rates advertised on their websites, so if calling up to reserve a tent pitch, always make it clear that you are walking the coast path. However, you rarely need to book campsites in advance, especially if you’re walking alone, though calling ahead the morning before you arrive is good for peace of mind. Other features Features are marked on the map when pertinent to navigation. In order to avoid cluttering the maps and making them unusable not all features have been marked each time they occur.

The route guide

PLYMOUTH [map p91) ‘Plymouth is indeed a town of considera- Luftwaffe during the Plymouth Blitz – the tion, and of great importance to the public. town has continued to swell in size. The situation of it between two very large Much of this success is down to its sit- inlets of the sea, and in the bottom of a uation at the mouths of two rivers, a crucial large bay [...] is very remarkable for the location that the nascent Royal Navy in the advantage of navigation.’ 17th century was quick to recognise. Her Daniel Defoe, A Tour through the Majesty’s Naval Base (HMNB) Devonport Whole Island of Great Britain opened in 1690, with further docks being built in 1727, 1762 and 1795. Isambard Lying between the mouths of the rivers Kingdom Brunel then designed the Great Plym and Tamar, Plymouth is a modern city Western Docks (1844-50) and in 1854 the ROUTEwith GUIDE AND aMAPS rich and eventful past. The city’s Keynham Steam Yard, built for the con- growth and prosperity are forever indebted struction of steam ships, was also complet- to its proximity to – and relationship with – ed. It’s hardly surprising, then, that most of the sea. Not just as the famous departure the town’s defining moments are sea based, point of the Pilgrim Fathers (see box p88) from the defeat of the Spanish Armada but also as a hub for trade (the commercial (1588; see box opposite) to the sailing of dockyards are amongst the largest in the Mayflower (1620; see box p88) as well Europe) and, foremost, as a vital naval as the heroic resistance the city showed in base: with a tradition that dates back to the WWII when, despite 59 German bombing very inception of the Royal Navy, there is sorties, it still played a full part in the Battle much to see and do in this historic city. of the Atlantic and was a major embarka- The first record of habitation in the tion point on D-Day. area, Sudtone (Saxon for ‘South Farm’), Unfortunately, where the Luftwaffe situated on the site of the present-day flattened Plymouth some ugly buildings Barbican, can be found in the Domesday have sprouted and a large chunk of the Book (1086). Initially just a small fishing town is actually fairly nondescript and pret- village, its strategically important location ty much devoid of charm. Thankfully, the soon brought prosperity and – despite bouts seafront remains one of the more interest- of plague, cholera and smallpox trimming ing and beautiful parts; and the area around the ever-burgeoning population as well as a the Mayflower Steps, known as The concerted attempt at destruction by the Barbican, is one of Plymouth’s oldest, Dorset-2 04a_Layout 1 05/12/2017 22:21 Page 11

Plymouth – map 91 ______

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94 Plymouth to Wembury ______

: barbicansteakhouse.com; Mon-Thur noon-2pm & 6-11pm) is perched directly 4.30-10.30pm, Fri-Sat 4.30-11pm) does a below the coast path on Hoe Rd. % On Notte St, meanwhile, Yukisan ( mouthwatering 12oz rib-eye for £15.25. % : For Indian cuisine, try Eastern Eye ( 01752-250240, yukisan.co.uk; Mon- 01752-262948, : easterneyeplymouth.com; Thur 11.30am-2.30pm & 5-10pm, Fri-Sat Mon-Thur noon-2pm & 6pm-midnight, Fri 11.30am-10.30pm, Sun noon-9.30pm), & Sat 6pm-2am, Sun 6pm-midnight) on established in 2004, was the first Japanese restaurant in town and is still going strong. Notte St. For %Thai food, head to nearby Thai House ( 01752-661600, : thethai As well as two generic Oriental-style din- house.co.uk; Mon-Thur 6-10pm, Fri & Sat ing rooms, they have a traditional Japanese dining room, with low tables and floor 6-10.30pm),% and for Mexican, try Arribas ( 01752-603303, : arribasmex cushions for seats. Further afield, but worth the walk, ican.co.uk; daily noon-10pm), also on the % : same strip. Artillery Tower ( 01752-257610, artil lerytower.co.uk; Wed-Sat 7.15-9.30pm), is There are plenty% of Chinese options, including Hakka ( 01752-224777; daily one of the more discreet places in the city, noon-3pm & 6-9pm), at 13 Southside St, an and is set in a 15th-century defensive tower upmarket Cantonese joint with delicious (see box p86) on the sea wall, overlooking home-made dim sum. If that doesn’t take Plymouth Sound. Evening meals are set at your fancy, there are two other Chinese £38.50 for two courses, or £42.50 for restaurants in the same building. three, and include dishes such as loin of lamb, roasted field mushrooms, and dived For Chinese% cuisine with a sea view, The Wet Wok ( 01752-664456, : wet scallops. wokchineserestaurant.co.uk; open daily

PLYMOUTH TO WEMBURY [MAPS 1-6] For such a lovely trek, this initial 10¾-mile (17.25km; 4¼hrs) leg is a bit of an inauspicious start. True, there may be the occasional stroller who will swoon at this saunter through the city’s unsung suburbs and praise the opportunity it pro- ROUTEvides GUIDE AND MAPS to plod through Plymouth’s less picturesque parts. But for most people the start of their 217¼-mile odyssey is little more than a fairly mundane trudge through an unappealing industrial estate followed by an only-slightly-more- interesting hike through the suburban sprawl that precedes Mount Batten Point. You can, of course, opt to take the ferry (see box below) from The Barbican to Mount Batten Point, and if time is short this would be a good decision. It does, after all, completely cut out the dullest stretch of this stage (possibly, some may argue, of the entire SWCP), and leaves you with just its more appetising latter half along the eastern edge of Plymouth Sound and on past Heybrook Bay to Wembury.

o The ferry to Mount Batten Point% The ferry to Mount Batten Point (boat 07930-838614, : mountbattenferry.co.uk; £1.50,  free) is not actually part of the coast path – though many trekkers treat it as such to cut out the rather dull walking through Plymouth. Crossings depart every 30 minutes (summer Mon-Fri 7.30am-11pm, Sat 9am-11pm, Sun 9am-10.30pm; winter Mon-Thur 7.30am-6.15pm, Fri 7.30am-11pm, Sat 9am-11pm, Sun 9am-6.15pm), and take around 10 minutes. Dorset-2 04a_Layout 1 05/12/2017 22:21 Page 24

104 Tackling the Yealm ______TORES TORES S S ILLAGE ILLAGE V V RIXTON RIXTON B B MINS 100 MINS 100 & PO & PO TORES TORES S S NIGHTON NIGHTON K K ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS

NOSS MAYO & NEWTON FERRERS 10am-4.30pm, Sun to 4pm), a lovely café [Map 6a] that does cream teas (£6), breakfasts, soups Separated by a narrow tidal creek, these and sandwiches, but only accepts cash. tidy twin villages lie on the estuary of the The quieter, and ever-so charming Noss River Yealm. Newton Ferrers is the larger Mayo, which clings tightly to the edge of a of the two. Originally called Niwetone, the side creek, is nearer to the coast path, with village was given as a gift to the Norman the ferry across the Yealm calling in at the Ferrers family – hence the name. Here edge of the village, about 10 minutes’ walk you’ll find a Co-op supermarket (Mon-Sat from the centre. There’s some accommoda- 8am-8pm, Sun 9am-7pm) with a free ATM, tion here, as well as two fine pubs. % % : as well as Tearoom on the Green ( Sail Away B&B ( 01752-873556, 07902-256539;  on lead; Wed-Sat sailawaystays.webs.com; 2D; ; WI-FI; Dorset-2 04b_Layout 1 05/12/2017 22:26 Page 2

174 Torquay to Teignmouth ______MAIDENCOMBE [Map 36, p173] A quiet and remote cluster of houses, the Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm & 6-9pm, Sat noon- centre of focus here is the delightful 9pm, Sun noon-4pm; Jul-Sep Mon-Sat ☎ Thatched Tavern ( 01803-329155, : the noon-9pm, Sun noon-8pm), and also has a thatchedtaverndevon.co.uk), a pretty, delightful garden. thatched-roofed country pub that offers You need to walk up to Maidencombe B&B (2D; ; WI-FI; ; £60-65pp, sgl occ Cross to catch Stagecoach’s hop22 bus £100) as well as excellent food (Oct-Jun (Dawlish Warren to Paignton), see pp50-4.

A gravel path takes you away from Maidencombe; following the copper- coloured cliffs it careens its way past Blackaller’s and Mackerel coves, never seeming to find a straight (or horizontal) line until arriving at Labrador Bay Nature Reserve (: rspb.org.uk, click on Reserves and events). Purchased by the RSPB in 2008 the reserve’s aim is to help protect the cirl bunting (see also p71 and p133), a rare bird which is almost unique to South Devon. Other species regularly spotted include buzzards, peregrines and yellowhammers. The path continues to dip and rise steeply via several combes, rejoining the A379 briefly before heading back into the fields. As you climb over Bundle Head, Teignmouth comes into full view – as does Shaldon Golf Course below you. Exmouth can also be seen – just – in the distance. A flat amble by the golf course brings you to a pleasant walk through woods. A bench offers a tremen- dous view across Teignmouth Pier as well as the delights that await you over the next few days. Dropping down through the woods you arrive at a pub, The Ness (see p176 and p177), on the outskirts of the charming village of Shaldon.

SHALDON [map p177] ☎ : The quiet Georgian village of Shaldon (Map 37; 01626-872234, shaldon offers a peaceful alternative to staying over wildlifetrust.org.uk; daily Apr-Sep 10am- ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS the water in Teignmouth (not that it’s espe- 5pm, Oct-Mar 10am-4pm; £6.70) is set in cially boisterous there either!). one acre of woodland on Ness Drive and It’s a pity that most people hurry over plays host to several endangered animals the Teign as Shaldon is much more than including the smallest monkey in the world, just a commuter village. For a start, it has a the South American pygmy marmoset. few decent accommodation options, The village also has its own classical including campsites, as well as a couple of music festival (see p14) in June and a : very likeable boozers serving hearty food water carnival day ( www.shaldonwater in an amiable atmosphere. It also boasts a carnival.co.uk) in August. Furthermore, botanical garden (Homeyards; built by when visiting in summer do not be sur- the late widow of William Homeyard, the prised to see local people dressed in inventor of Liqufruta cough medicine; Georgian costume: Wednesdays between open all year, free) with its own ruined cas- early June and mid September are known as tle, a limekiln (Map 37; behind The Ness 1785 day with celebrations including a pub) and even a small zoo: Shaldon Zoo farmer’s market and craft fair (10am-4pm),

o Important note – walking times All times in this book refer only to the time spent walking. You will need to add 20-30% to allow for rests, photography, checking the map, drinking water etc. Dorset-2 04b_Layout 1 05/12/2017 22:26 Page 3

Map 37, Shaldon 175 ______

38 LOW TIDE ROUTE / 38 BY HIGH LOW TIDE ROUTE / 38) MINS FROM WHERE PATHS JOIN AP (M BY HIGH 35/20 MINS TO WHERE PATHS JOIN 38) AP 35/20 (M START START / / AFÉ AFÉ C C ASTCLIFF ASTCLIFF OF ALTERNATIVE ROUTE E OF ALTERNATIVE ROUTE E MINS MINS 15 15 ERRY ERRY F F EIGNMOUTH EIGNMOUTH T T ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS ERRY ERRY F F HALDON HALDON S S

36 Dorset-2 04b_Layout 1 05/12/2017 22:26 Page 4

176 Torquay to Teignmouth ______as well as maypole dancing and Punch ‘n’ have balconies, but not all have clear views Judy shows in the evenings. over the estuary. Rates are higher for sea- view rooms. Services Away from the shoreline and facing The tourist information centre (Map 37; onto the picturesque village green is the ☎ ☎ 07546-995623, : shaldon-village.co.uk; dog-friendly Potters Mooring ( 01626- late May to late Sep daily 10.30am- 873225, : pottersmooring.co.uk; 4D/1T/ 4.30pm) stands in its own building in the 1Tr plus two cottages – one with D & T, the car park opposite The Ness pub. other with 1T); ; WI-FI; ; £42.50-60pp, Everything else is down by the water sgl occ £65-95), at No 30. Unfortunately, in the village centre, including the well- they are unlikely to be able to accept stocked village store (Mon-Sat 8am-6pm, advance bookings for one-night stays at Sun 9am-4pm), an ATM, a post office weekends in July and August. (Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-5.30pm, Thur 9am- Maybe, instead, you’d like to rent a ☎ 1pm, Sat 9am-12.30pm) and a pharmacy beach hut! Shaldon Beach Huts ( (Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-1pm & 2-6pm, Thur 01803-213814, : shaldonbeachhuts.co.uk; & Sat 9am-1pm). WI-FI; £165-175 per hut per night for a single-night stay; rates reduced for longer Transport stays) have two self-catered beach huts; one [See also pp50-4] Stagecoach’s hop22 bus sleeps two, the other sleeps two to four. calls here en route between Dawlish Warren There is underfloor heating and they all and Paignton. have terraces which lead out on to the For a taxi try any of the Teignmouth beach, as well as showers and their own lit- taxi firms. See opposite for details about tle kitchens. the ferry to Teignmouth. Where to eat and drink The award-winning Shaldon Where to stay Cafés ☎ For camping, you need to walk about a Bakery ( 01626-872401; summer Mon- mile (1.2km) beyond the village to Long Sat 8am-4/4.30pm, low season to 3pm, ☎ Meadow Farm ( 01626-872732, : long winter to 2pm) sells breads and cakes as meadowfarm.co.uk; ; £10-13 for a hiker well as local preserves for souvenirs and ROUTE& GUIDE tent AND MAPS plus £2 for each extra person; Easter hot drinks to take away. Look out for their to end Sep), a very welcoming family-run speciality ‘uglibun’; an oversized, oddly- campsite with five flat grassy pitches, a shaped, but ever-so-tasty currant bun that’s large barn known as the ‘farm hub’ where so popular it has its own Twitter account. campers can read, eat their meals and With a prime location overlooking the ☎ charge mobile phones, and various farm estuary, Clipper Café ( 01626-873747, : animals (chickens, pigs, goats and ponies) theclippershaldon.co.uk; WI-FI;  ground to keep young campers amused. If you floor only; daily 8am-9pm) is a popular, don’t fancy the walk back into Shaldon, modern café with good coffee, a riverside you can eat at the large holiday park oppo- terrace out the back, and a separate evening site the farm entrance, which has a restau- menu (from 6pm; mains £10-15). Across ☎ rant and a pub with a riverside terrace. To the road, The Strand Café ( 01626- get to Long Meadow Farm, walk past the 872624, : thestrandcafebistro.co.uk; well- Shipwrights Arms on Ringmore Rd (which behaved ; school summer holidays daily becomes Coombe Rd) and you’ll see the 9.30am-4pm, rest of year Wed-Fri 10am- farm entrance on your left. 4pm, Sat-Sun 9.30am-4pm) is a café-bistro For B&B, it’s possible to stay at the that specialises in brunches (£7-10). ☎ super-smart pub The Ness (Map 37; Along Fore St, Coffee Rush is a café- 01626-873480, : theness.co.uk; 7D/2D or tearoom (cakes, pastries, cream tea), which T; ; WI-FI; ; £52.50-70pp, sgl occ room is housed inside The Clifford Arms pub (see rate), right on the coast path. All the rooms opposite). Dorset-2 04c_Layout 1 05/12/2017 22:35 Page 26

276 Weymouth ______Moving north to the almost unbroken £50-90), No 122 The Esplanade, requires a string of establishments on The Esplanade, minimum booking of two nights between three more places that accept one-night July and mid September (and over bank ☎ bookings can be found here with The holiday weekends) and Langham Hotel ( ☎ Roundhouse Hotel ( 01305-761010, : 01305-782530, : langham-hotel.com; 9D/ roundhouse-weymouth.com; 1T/5D; ; 3T; ; WI-FI; late Feb to early Nov; £35- WI-FI; £37.50-72.50pp, sgl occ £70-140) at 50pp, sgl occ £45-75), at No 130, requires a ☎ No 1 and, at No 2, Aaran House ( 01305- minimum stay of three nights between June 766669, : aaranhouse.co.uk; 4D/2T; ; and September. Some rooms can sleep chil- WI-FI; £32.50-40pp, sgl occ £60-75); and dren and the Langham provides evening their neighbour at No 3, Beach View Guest meals (three courses £15) if booked in ☎ House ( 01305-570046, : beachview advance. guesthouse.com; 5D/1Tr; ; WI-FI in guest In contrast and before leaving The lounge; from £35pp, sgl occ from £60). Esplanade altogether, right at its heart sits ☎ Still on The Esplanade, The Gloucester House ( 01305-785191, : ☎ Anchorage ( 01305-782542, : thean gloucesterhouseweymouth.co.uk; 3S/6D/ chorageweymouth.co.uk; 2S shared shower 2T/2Tr/2Qd; ; WI-FI; £36-45pp, sgl £47- facilities/3D/1T/1Tr/Qd; WI-FI; £42.50pp, 52, sgl occ rates on request) at No 96, sgl occ £48-55), at No 7, accepts a mini- where one-night bookings are generally mum advance booking of two/three nights allowed except for bank holiday weekends ☎ in the peak season. The Bedford ( 01305- and between the beginning of July and the 786995, : thebedfordweymouth.co.uk; end of August where a minimum of three 1S/7D; WI-FI; Mar-Oct; £41-44pp, sgl from nights is necessary. £50, sgl occ £36-82), at No 17, accepts one- The Esplanade isn’t the only street night bookings except over weekends and stuffed with accommodation; at the oppo- in the peak season. site end of town there is another string of Still good value are The Bourneville B&Bs on Brunswick Terrace. Most of them ☎ ( 01305-784784, : bournevillehotel.co are great value and some accept one-night .uk; 2S/3D or T/2T/6D/1Tr/1Qd, one room stops, at least outside the peak seasons of ☎ sleeping up to five; ; WI-FI; £30-50pp, July and August. Whitecliff ( 01305- sgl/sgl occ from £50) at No 31-32, which 785554, : whitecliffweymouth.co.uk; 1S/

ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS ☎ has a licensed bar, and Bay View Hotel ( 3D/1T/1Tr and one room sleeping up to 01305-782083, : bayview-weymouth.co five; ; WI-FI; ; £27.50-50pp, sgl £35- .uk; 7D/1Tr; WI-FI; £30-32.50pp, sgl occ 50, sgl occ from £45), at No 7, is a decent room rate), No 35, which provides fridges and well-run place and, with better rooms, in its rooms as they serve a continental- Sunnyside (contact details as for Horizon style breakfast and guests eat in their as operated by the same people, see below; rooms. Alas, neither of these is likely to 2D/1T share facilities, 2Tr/1Qd, all en take a one-night booking in July or August suite; ; WI-FI; ; £30-40pp, sgl occ £28- though both are worth a call on the day if 38) at No 15. you’re stuck. Also very good value are Lichfield ☎ ☎ The Edenhurst ( 01305-771255, : House ( 01305-784112, : lichfield edenhurstweymouth.com; 2S/4D/2T/3Tr; house.net; 4D/2T; ; WI-FI; £37.50-40pp, WI-FI; £39-62.50pp, sgl £40-51, sgl occ sgl occ from £60), at No 8, and Seaspray

o Where to stay: the details Unless specified, B&B-style accommodation is either en suite or has private facilities;  means at least one room has a bath;  signifies that dogs are welcome in at least one room but always by prior arrangement, an additional charge may also be payable (see also p83); WI-FI means wi-fi is available in the property, though not always reliably in every room. Dorset-2 04c_Layout 1 05/12/2017 22:35 Page 27

Weymouth 277 ______

Waterloo 53 2 St le Place A3A353 lpo W a e il 3 Where to stay W b liam S m t 8 4 Lennox St1 o l Water tap behind c PPl 1 Bunkhouse Plus l St e 5 beach huts 2 The Redcliff M 9 6 3 Horizon t 10 Brunswick Terrace S 7 4 Sunnyside rd fo t 11 s S 5 Lichfield House elm ToiletsToilets Ch a 12 ori 6 Whitecliff t Pier Bandstand c iictoria St 13 7 Seaspray V War memorial 8 Oliver’s Guest House (Anzac & GB) 9 The Bay 10 The Seaham 14 15 Esplanade 11 Hotel Mon Ami RRanelagh Rd an t St he n TThe Esplanade 12 Marina Court e e lag c 16 s h e 13 The Esplanade Hotel Rd r 14 Newlands Guest House CCrescent St Weymouth 15 Langham Hotel Bay 16 The Edenhurst Railway station 18 Gloucester House King St 20 Bay View Hotel Jubilee 0 200m

24 The Bourneville r e clock 17 t 25 The Cutter Hotel s s e c w 31 The Bedford u e 18 lo M 32 The Anchorage G 33 Beach View Guest War memorial Where to eat and drink House (US Forces) 17 Jade Garden

34 The Roundhouse Hotel e 19 Loose Moose Deli Co d a 21 Cactus Tea Rooms 35 Aaran House Launderette n a l 38 Old Harbour View G p 22 Brunches louc s t este r S E t S 23 Lazy Lunches e k h

ar T 26 Fish N Fritz P Bus stops 27 Weymouth Tandoori t ToiletsToilets S 28 Marlboro e g r 29 The Ship Inn o e G King George 30 Vaughan’s t a e III statue r Fossil 36 The Kings Arms G TheTh Esplanade 37 Bennetts Fish & Chips Beach e E Library & 39 Mallams internet sp t lan 40 Old Rooms Inn

s a ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS a 41 Time for Tea Brasserie d

19 e

o 42 Galley Bistro

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S 41 t 43 Hope Square Weymouth 42 Dorset-2 04c_Layout105/12/201722:35Page28

ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS l e sie 1/D hr facilities; share 1T/1D suite, en all 786712, B&Bs. of line another to home is Place Waterloo sea, the than rather road a with fronted so bookings of whole August. the and July late between one-night take to unlikely are also 16, No at £28-38), occ sgl £30-40pp, 1T share bathroom, 1D/1T/2Qd all en suite; u; 3S/5D/4Tr; .uk; 784916, ning place run by a highly amiable chap; it chap; amiable highly a by run place ning award-win- an 141, No at £75-90) occ sgl marinacourt.co.uk; 10D/4T; 10D/4T; marinacourt.co.uk; and 143-145, No £50), from occ sgl £30-45pp, (☎ on rates occ 6. No at request) sgl £42-50, sgl £30-40pp, 6D/1T/1Tr, two rooms sleep up to five; to 6D/1T/1Tr,up sleep rooms two 52.50pp, sgl occ rates on request), No 142, No request), on rates occ sgl 52.50pp, 3D/2D or T; or 3D/2D 01305-786289, July/August; in booking one-night a accept not may they though 12, No at request), on rates occ sgl £25-35pp, WI (☎ ______Weymouth 278 not at weekends; while weekends; at not but summer one- in week a the during stay for night bookings advance accept 19, 18- No at request), on rates occ sgl £48-51, 5D; 782010, and 10; No at 96) adc ad amn n hi breakfast their on menu. salmon and haddock kippers, has incidentally, last, This 3. No fes adc, ipr, orde ad a and veggie alternative for breakfast. Will accept porridge, kippers, haddock, offers 783129, 783129, and and os.ou; S3/D r T/1Tr; or 1S/3D/1D house.co.uk; (☎ Holidays; see p29). see Holidays; if (TrexxWalking tours walking season operate they peak the months winter the In time. the near booked in stops one-night 20T/20D; - FI 01305-784682, 01305-786943, 01305-786917, WI One block behind Brunswick Terrace,Brunswick behind block One Further down the street, the down Further Also in this area are area this in Also aia Court Marina ; Mar-end Oct; £45-60pp, sgl £50-70, sgl £45-60pp, Oct; Mar-end ; h Epaae Hotel Esplanade The - FI lvrs us House Guest Oliver’s : : ; £34-60pp, sgl occ from £55) at £55) from occ sgl £34-60pp, ; : :  oliversguesthouse.co.uk; 2S/3D oliversguesthouse.co.uk; oiogetos.ou; 1S/ horizonguesthouse.co.uk; WI ; hepaaeoe.ou; 1S/ theesplanadehotel.co.uk; theseahamweymouth.co.uk; WI - : FI WI - ; £32-48pp, sgl occ £42- occ sgl £32-48pp, ; FI thebayguesthouse.co.uk; The Seaham The : : - : FI (☎ n h br Apr-Nov; bar; the in ; redcliffweymouth.co www.seaspray-guest hotelmonami.co.uk; Horizon  01305-782146, Hotel Mon Ami Mon Hotel £55p, sgl £35-50pp, ; h Bay The The Redcliff The WI ( (☎ ☎ (☎ (☎ - FI 01305- 01305- 01305- 01305- £33- ; WI WI  - - ( FI FI : ☎ ; ; ; o cnt et oe qae wee three where Square, Hope beat can’t you Restaurants with St, Alban St £2.40. just for meals baguette on Sun 9am-4pm, 10.30am-3pm), Mon-Sat 01305-782187; bar sandwich reasonably priced very the or St, Thomas St off just St School on 9am-4pm), Sat 4.30pm, café, family-friendly the a lovely Dorset apple cake. It’s as similar fare at well as (£4-8) lunches and does brunches and years 20 almost for going been has bad) is weather the or quiet is close it when they 10.30am, from daily Mar-Nov rwnswyot.o; umr daily summer crowsnestweymouth.com; Bistro is Nest Crow’s terrace, tree-shaded its to thanks largely lot, the of best attention: your vie for eateries European-inspired charming Co Deli narrow the harbour.the behind lanes in hidden 9.30am-3pm), Sat Cactus TeaRooms Cactus delis & Cafés pavements. Mediterranean-like atmosphere with tables a spilling out onto the café- create lovely three restaurants where Square, Hope called plaza tree-shaded partly quiet, small, a in south, the to it, off just is eat to place pleasant most the but drink, a or meal a for bet best your is area harbour historic The drink and eat to Where xesv tps eu £-) s el as well as an (£4-6) has menu which tapas extensive 9am-9pm) Fri-Sat 9am- 4pm, Sun & Tue-Thur winter 9am-9pm, e diy .0m5m rs o ya Wed- year of rest 9.30am-5pm, daily Sep TeaBrasserie for while (£11-15), mains evening and tion of breakfasts as well as lunches (£5-10) selec- 10am- good a has 10am-4pm) Sun 6-10pm, Tue-Thur & 10am-2.30pm Fri-Sat 6-9pm, & 2.30pm 10am-2.30pm, Mon 01305-784059, (£6-10). lunches doing n, uh f t rnh te we hails such dishes owner in specialises and (the Paris), from French it of much ing, cook- home but nothing serves only) Mon For sandwich fillers, try fillers, sandwich For cos h square, the Across (☎ 10-791 o-r 7am- Mon-Fri 01305-774941; On a sunny summer’s day, summer’s sunny a On : ih o te Esplanade, the on Right (☎ (☎ thegalleybistro.co.uk; (☎ 01305-777500; June- 01305-777500; 01305-778933; ay Lunches Lazy 01305-786930, aly Bistro Galley Brunches Loose Moose Loose (Mon- Time The  ( (☎ : ☎ ; Dorset-2 04c_Layout 1 05/12/2017 22:35 Page 61

Map 87, Studland 311 ______

88 88) AP (M OINT P 88) AVEN AP H (M OUTH OINT S P AVEN H MINS FROM OUTH 45 S MINS TO 45 ENTRE C ISITOR VISITOR CENTRE & V & AFÉ AFÉ C C EACH EACH B B NOLL NOLL K K ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS 86) AP (M 86) ORELAND AP F (M HE T ORELAND F MINS TO HE 40

T 86 MINS FROM 40 Dorset-2 colour maps-Q9_Pemb-2 Colour map layout.qxp 6/12/17 2:07 pm Page 4

PLYMOUTHPLYMOUTH A38 1 KingsKingston MAP 2 A312A3121 MAP 1 A3A37979 BigbBigbury West MAP 6a Ermington Hooe Brixton MAP 9a ChaChallaborough YealmptonYealmpton Modbury BigburBigbury- MAP 3 on-Seon-Sea Holbeton 2 B339B3392 MAP WemburyWembury 6 Heybrook Newton B318B3186 Bay Ferrers Mothecombe Kingston MAP 4 MAP 5 MAP Bigbury Noss MAP 10 Mayo MAP 6 MAP 8 Stoke MAP 9 MAP 7 Point Challaborough Bigbury-on-Sea 01234 5km Bantham

0123 miles MAP 11 Thurlestone 200m Turn for Noss Mayo 200m LLeave Wembury ferry Outer Hope 150 Stoke 150 mamain path Mount Batten Heybrook Point River Erme Inner Hope 100 Point Bay crossing 100 Bigbury- 50 Plymouth 50 on-Sea

0 miles 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 0 milemiles

200m River Yealm diversion 200m River Erme diversion 200m

150 WemburyWembury Newton Ferrers 150 150 YealmptonYealmpton Rejoin Holbeton 100 100 100 Brixton main Rejoin 50 path Mothecombe main 50 Turn for Turn for path Mothecombe Wembury 0 miles 2 4 6 8 0 miles 2 4 6 8 0 milemiles

South Haven Point Maps 1-6 Plymouth Plymouth to Wembury Plymou 10¾ miles/17.25km – 4¼hrs Bigbury-on-Sea Bigbury Wembury Maps 6-11 Wembury to Bigbury-on-Sea 15¼ miles/24.5km – 5hrs 25mins NOTE: Add 20-30% to these times to allow for stops

Job: 700883 Title: Dorset & South Devon Coast Path DTP: FF Page: Map_4 Dorset-2 colour maps-Q9_Pemb-2 Colour map layout.qxp 6/12/17 2:07 pm Page 15

AA35 35 Holton Heath B3075 A351 BOURNEMOUTH Hamworthy Poole B33B3369

B3065 B3065 B3065 Sandford Stoborough

Brownsea MAP 88 Island A352 MAP 76b WarehamWareham Sandbanks B3351 Stoborough Ridge South Haven Point Stoborough Green MAP 87 Studland Furzebrook Kingstonngston Bay B3069B3069 A3A351 The 51 B3351 Studland Foreland Worthorth Corfe Matraversravers Castle MAP 86 Harman’s MAP 78 Cross MAP 85 Kimmeridge Kingston B3069 Swanage MAP 80 Langton Matravers Peveril Point Kimmeridge

Bay MAP 79 WorthWorth Matravers MAP 84 Anvil Point 0123km MAP 83 MAP 81 012 miles MAP 82 St Aldhelm’s Head

200m Kimmeridgemeridge 150 Bay St Adhelm’s 100 Head Swanage Studland

50 South Haven Point Kimmeridge 6 Bay 0 miles 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

South Haven Point

Swanage Plymouth Kimmeridge Bay 6-79 Maps 79-84 Bay Kimmeridge Bay to Swanage route 13½ miles/21.75km – 4hrs 50mins ative 1 Maps 84-88, Swanage to South Haven Point Ê ative 2 7½ miles/12km – 2hrs 40mins r stops NOTE: Add 20-30% to these times to allow for stops

Coast Path Job: 700883 Title: Dorset & South Devon Coast Path : Map_14 DTP: FF Page: Map_15 Dorset-2 colourmaps-Q9_Pemb-2Colourmaplayout.qxp6/12/172:07pmPage16 A35 Axminster A30 A37 A354 A386 Charmouth DORSET & S DEVON 54 Bridport A35 Bournemouth A30 29 55 56 Exeter COAST PATH Seaton 53 57 Burton Dorchester 30 Seatown 58 Bradstock A35 Poolee Okehampton 494 50 51 52 FINISH 474 484 LymeLyme WestWest 59 31 46 Bay 60 45 Beer Regis 60a 60b Osmington South Haven 88 Sidmouth Abbotsbury Point Exmouth WestWest 61 60c Mills 76a 87 44 Bexington 62 73 76b 43 72 74 Studland 86 DE VON 40a 63 7576 77 Kimmeridge 85 Starcross 40 42 Budleigh 64 71 78 41 79 Swanage Dawlish WarrenWarren Salterton 65 WestWest 80 39 66 WeymouthWeymouth Lulworth 8182 83 84 38 Dawlish 67 WorthW r h ChiswellCh w 686 Tavistockock NewtonNNewt w oonn 3737 TeignmouthTeTeig gnmounmouth h MatraversM r vev r AbboAbbotAbb IsleI le of f 699 3636 ShaldonShShaldon 707 A38 MaidencombeMMaidenco deden coo mmbebeb PortlandPortlr ndnd 353 MAP KEY A386 3434 Map 1 – p95 Plymouth TorquayTo rq quu y Map 2 – p96 Hooe Lake Map 60a, 60b & 60c – p252 & p253 3232 3333 PaigntonP ggn o n Map 3 – p98 West Hooe Map 31 – p158 Paignton South Dorset Ridgeway START 3131 Map 4 – p99 Heybrook Bay Map 32 – p162 Preston Sands Map 61 – p255 Chesil Beach PlymptonP ympton 3030 292 Map 5 – p101 Wembury Map 33 – p163 Torquay Map 62 – p257 Abbotsbury Plymouthh BrixhamBr xh m Map 6 – p103 Gapmouth Rock Map 34 – p170 Hope’s Nose Map 63 – p261 Langton Herring A38 2828 1 2 252 2727 Map 6a – pp104-5 Yealm diversion Map 35 – p171 St Marychurch Map 64 – p262 East Fleet DartmouthDrrtm ou h Map 7 – p106 Revelstoke Drive Map 36 – p173 Maidencombe Beach Map 65 – p263 Chickerell Range 3 9a 262 6a6 StokeSo k FlemingF e m n g 2424 Map 8 – p107 St Anchorite’s Rock Map 37 – p175 Shaldon Map 66 – p264 Ferrybridge 4 5 MothecombeMotht hecoom bbe StreteS r Map 9 – p109 Mothecombe Map 38 – p183 Dawlish Map 67 – p265 Portland Harbour Wemburyy 6 8 9 11a11 2323 7 101 SlaptonSSlap ptonon 2222 Map 9a – p110 Erme diversion Map 39 – p187 Dawlish Warren Map 68 – p267 Fortuneswell 1111 Job: 700883 Title: Dorset & South Devon Coast Path Coast Devon South & Title:700883 Dorset Job: Bigbury-B gbury Map 10 – p112 Challaborough Map 40 – p189 Cockwood Map 69 – p270 Penn’s Weare 2121 TorcrossTToTorc r c rrosso See ‘Cornwallll on-Seaonon-S Seea 1212 BeesandsBee and Map 11 – p113 Bigbury-on-Sea Map 40a – p191 River Exe diversion Map 70 – p271 Bill of Portland Innernner Hopep SalcombeSSa co om beb 202 Coast Path’ 133 HallsandsH nd Map 11a – p115 Avon diversion Map 41 – p199 Exmouth Map 71 – p273 Weymouth 151 16 191 144 1717 1818 Map 12 – p117 Outer Hope Map 42 – p200 Littleham Cove Map 72 – p281 Bowleaze Cove EastEa Map 13 – p118 Inner Hope Map 43 – p201 Budleigh Salterton Map 73 – p283 Osmington Mills PrawlePr w e Map 14 – p119 Steeple Cove Map 44 – p205 Brandy Head Map 74 – p284 Ringstead Bay Map 15 – p121 Salcombe Map 45 – p206 High Peak Map 75 – p285 Middle Bottom Map 16 – p125 East Portlemouth Map 46 – p207 Sidmouth Map 76 – p287 Lulworth Cove 10 20 30km 0 Map 17 – p126 Pig’s Nose Map 47 – p212 Maynard’s Cliff Map 77 – p291 Flowers Barrow 0 2 4 4 6 8 miles Map 18 – p127 East Prawle Map 48 – p213 Coxe’s Cliff Map 78 – p292 Worbarrow Map 19 – p129 Lannacombe Beach Map 49 – p215 Branscombe Mouth Map 76a & 76b – p295 & p296 Map 20 – p130 Hallsands Map 50 – p219 Seaton Lulworth Ranges diversion routes Map 21 – p132 Torcross Map 51 – p223 Downlands Cliff Map 79 – p297 Kimmeridge Bay Map 22 – p135 Slapton Map 52 – p224 Whitlands Cliff Map 80 – p299 Egmont Bight DTP: FF Page: Map_16 Page: FF DTP: Map 23 – p137 Strete Map 53 – p225 Lyme Regis Map 81 – p301 Chapman’s Pool Map 24 – p139 Stoke Fleming Map 54 – p235 Charmouth Map 82 – p302 Seacombe Cliff Dorset & S Devon Map 25 – p141 Warfleet Map 55 – p237 Broom Cliff Map 83 – p303 Dancing Ledge Map 26 – p147 Pudcombe Cove Map 56 – p239 Seatown Map 84 – p305 Swanage Map 27 – p149 Man Sands Map 57 – p243 West Bay Map 85 – p309 Studland Hill Coast Path Map 28 – p150 St Mary’s Bay Map 58 – p247 Burton Bradstock Map 86 – p310 The Foreland Map 29 – p151 Berry Head Map 59 – p249 Hive Beach Map 87 – p311 Studland PLYMOUTH – POOLE Map 30 – p157 Broad Sands Map 60 – p250 West Bexington Map 88 – p312 South Haven Point

Dorset-2Dorset-2 BackBack Cover-Q9_-Cover-Q9_- 6/12/176/12/17 11:1511:15 amam PagePage 11

DISTRIBUTEDDISTRIBUTED ININ UKUK && IRELANDIRELAND BYBY THETHETHE TRAVELTRAVELTRAVEL ALLIANCE ALLIANCEALLIANCE ¤¤ 012250122501225 406440406440406440 PricePrice inin UKUK UK£11.99UK£11.99

ISBNISBNISBN 978-1-905864-94-2978-1-905864-94-2978-1-905864-94-2 22ndnd

DTP:edition editionFF Page: cvr Job: 700883 Title: Dorset & South Devon Coast Path

1712039_cover_cc2018.indd 1 Job:Job:Job: 700883700883700883 Title:Title:Title: DorsetDorsetDorset &&& SouthSouthSouth DevonDevonDevon17/12/15 CoastCoastCoast PathPath Path 08:50

DTP:DTP:edition FFFF Page:Page: cvrcvr

ISBN 978-1-905864-94-2 7819059 864942

Price in USA US$19.95 EDN

1-800-462-6420 www.nbnbooks.com 2

DISTRIBUTED IN USA BY NBN

Price in UK UK£11.99

THE TRAVEL ALLIANCE 01225 406440

DISTRIBUTED IN UK & IRELAND BY

51995 >

www.trailblazer-guides.com

GPS waypoints

bunkhouses, hostels and campsites) INCLUDES DOWNLOADABLE

restaurants); where to stay (B&Bs, hotels,

Part 3: Dorset & South Devon

What to see; where to eat (cafés, pubs and

Part 2: Cornwall

Practical information for all budgets J

Part 1: Exmoor & North Devon

for all access points

SW COAST PATH SERIES

Detailed public transport information J

and Lyme Regis.

uch as Beer llages s seaside vi day walks short breaks lights on or

Cove, winding through idyllic hiking the entire route or sampling high-

impressive spit and Lulworth

Itineraries for all walkers – whether J

headlands, Chesil Bank’s

passes dramatic cliffs and edited maps drawn by walkers for walkers Coast Path

Site, the , and Jurassic Coast are not general-purpose maps but fully

only Natural World Heritage

stay, places to eat, points of interest. These

95 miles within England’s

times, directions, tricky junctions, places to

This beautiful route includes

Unique mapping features

– walking J

. West Coast Path & DANIEL McCROHAN

630-mile (1014km) South-

walking maps currently available in the shops.

Dorset & South Devon, of the

HENRY STEDMAN, JOEL NEWTON

these are bigger than even the most detailed

km) covers the third section,

under 1:20,000 (8cm or 3 inches to 1 mile)

/ 8

miles, 350 (217

Harbour

largest-scale maps available – At just

from Plymouth to Poole

PLANNING – PLACES TO STAY – PLACES TO EAT

Includes 97 detailed walking maps: the

J This guide to the coast path

97 large-scale maps & guides to 48 towns & villages

50 miles

COAST PATH (SWCP 3) Includes THE JURASSIC COAST

DORSET & S DEVON

100km 0

towns and villages guides to

SW COAST PATH Part 3 – PLYMOUTH TO POOLE HARBOUR

SW COAST PATH Part 3 – PLYMOUTH TO POOLE HARBOUR SWCP 2

Poole Harbour

Plymouth

and restaurants in detailed

Exeter Exeter Bude

includes accommodation, pubs Minehead Minehead

London COAST PATH

SWCP 1 COAST PATH

Cardiff Cardiff SW COAST PATH Part-3 – PLYMOUTH TO POOLE

THE SUNDAY TIMES

South Devon

They are particularly strong on mapping...’

shoulders, waist and ankles above the rest.

‘...the Trailblazer series stands head,

EDN Dorset & Dorset & 2

SOUTH-WEST COAST PATH Part 3 – PLYMOUTH TO POOLE HARBOUR Part 3 – PLYMOUTH SOUTH-WEST COAST PATH Dorset & South Devon

TRAILBLAZER Dorset-2 Back Cover-Q9_- 6/12/17 11:15 am Page 1