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Ultimate Chile We saw many good shorebirds during this tour, including the stunning Rufous-chested Dotterel. (all photos by DLV) ULTIMATE CHILE 19 NOVEMBER– 3/8 DECEMBER 2018 LEADER: MARK PEARMAN and DANI LOPEZ-VELASCO 1 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Chile 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Once again, our Ultimate Chile tour produced all of the mainland Chilean endemics, all eight tapaculos, some the size of a puffin, including walk-away views of both Chestnut-throated and Black-throated Huet- Huets, and an astonishing wader spectacle of 33 species, including Diademed Sandpiper-Plover, Magellanic Plover, Peruvian Thick-knee, Tawny-throated and Rufous-chested Dotterels and Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe. Our two main pelagics, and various ferry crossings, delivered 17 species of tubenose with highlights of Southern Royal, Chatham and Buller´s Albatrosses, one of the first Shy (White-capped) Albatross records for Chile, and some Pincoya Storm Petrels. In all, we observed 280 species (of which 28 were only seen on the extension) plus some 16 species of mammal, among which, the rarely seen Huemul and delightful Commerson's Dolphin stood out. As we travelled almost the entire spine of Chile we sampled three major biomes including several vast wilderness areas, from the Atacama desert to the high Andes and through Patagonian forests to the Magellanic and Fuegian tundra steppe. Other unforgettable highlights, from north to south, included, the critically endangered Chilean Woodstar, Tamarugo Conebill, White-throated Earthcreeper, Andean and James's Flamingos, Magellanic Woodpecker, Burrowing Parrot, Spectacled Duck, White-throated Hawk, Rufous-legged Owl, Des Murs’ Wiretail and the recently split Patagonian Forest Earthcreeper. For many, the extension was the cherry topping, with a visit to South America's only King Penguin colony, Ruddy-headed Goose, Magellanic Plover, both dotterels, Magellanic Horned Owl, White- bridled and Yellow-bridled Finches, not to mention the impressive scenery of Torres del Paine. We enjoyed good weather almost throughout including the notorious extreme south. Accommodations were very comfortable, our logistics ran smoothly and we enjoyed tasty local cuisine and fine wines which lead to a hugely successful tour. This Black-throated Huet-Huet gave fantastic views at Puyehue. The birding started out of Iquique, making a stop along the coast to see our first Belcher´s and Grey Gulls, Chilean Skuas and a small group of Humboldt Penguins, amongst other things. After a short drive we reached the tamarugo woodlands surrounded by barren Atacama desert. Our prime target was the very localized Tamarugo Conebill which was singing in the nearest tree as soon as we stepped out of the bus. After enjoying many views of several birds, we went to a nearby restaurant for our first tasty lunch of the tour. We then shot back to the coast where there was plenty of action with Blackish and American Oystercatchers, vast numbers of mewing Grey Gulls, as well as Belcher's, Franklin's and a few Kelp Gulls, Black Skimmers and a single Great Grebe. Peruvian Boobies and Elegant and Inca Terns flew past as we scoped Whimbrels, 2 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Chile 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com with some Surfbirds mixed with Ruddy Turnstones and Willets. Some impressive scenery in Lauca NP. We went on a very enjoyable pelagic trip next morning. Colourful Inca Terns and Red-legged Cormorants adorned the port as we departed in calm seas which is typical at this latitude. Peruvian Diving Petrels were the first tubenoses to show and we managed to see some very, very well this morning. As we cruised to deeper waters, good numbers of Peruvian Boobies, Peruvian Pelicans, a couple of Pomarine Jaegers, Red- necked Phalaropes and Sooty Shearwaters all flew past the boat, and we soon added some Pink-footed Shearwaters, a few Elliot's Storm Petrels, as well as a couple Wilson's, with increasing numbers of White- chinned Petrels. Our chum pulled in 2 Salvin's Albatrosses and a Southern Giant Petrel, but in spite our best efforts, no Markham´s Storm Petrels could be found. South American Terns, Chilean Skuas, an immature Swallow-tailed Gull and a Guanay Cormorant provided the supporting cast on our return to port. Once back in the harbour, we found a very confiding Chilean Seaside Cinclodes. Heading north through the bleak, and astonishing, Atacama, a first stop produced Cinereous Conebill and a very smart, local Pied-crested Tit- Tyrant, as well as Croaking Ground Dove, Plain-mantled Tit Spinetail, White-crested Elaenia and Slender- billed FInch. A second oasis stop found us Oasis Hummingbird but no sign of the hoped-for Chilean Woodstar. We then settled in our hotel, and after dinner we went to a nearby stake out for Tschudi´s Nightjar, which eventually obliged, next to a Burrowing Owl. 3 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Chile 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com A colorful Inca Tern at Iquique harbour. Soon after dawn, we visited the Lluta river mouth, which was alive with birds. Thousands of Elegant Terns and Franklin´s Gulls sat on the beach, while Cinnamon Teal, Great Egret, Black-crowned Night Heron, Common Gallinule, Killdeer, Sanderling, Greater Yellowlegs, an unexpected Andean Gull and Peruvian Meadowlark were all new birds for the trip. The Azapa valley was our next port of call where we had fantastc views of male and female Peruvian Sheartails, but again we drew a blank on Chilean Woodstar –it seems they´ve vanished from this valley-. Other birds seen included Hooded Siskin, Vermilion Flycatcher, Blue- black Grassquit and Chestnut-throated Seedeater. A pair of Peruvian Thick-knees was spotted from the moving bus in a ploughed field, and we had excellent scope views of this sought-after species. Higher up, we spent considerable time looking for Greyish Miner, but none could be found. Raptors were in abundance, with Peregrine, American Kestrel, Harris´s Hawk, Variable Hawk and Black-chested Buzzard Eagle all seen on the journey. Reaching the Andean shrub zone, the birding became much more prolific with Bare-faced Ground Dove, Mourning and Ash-breasted Sierra Finches, Canyon and Dark-winged Canasteros, Straight- billed Eathcreeper, Streak-backed Tit-Spinetail, Yellow-billed Tit Tyrant and Greenish Yellow Finch. Then, in the town of Putre we quickly connected with Spot-winged Pigeons. 4 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Chile 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Critically endangered Chilean Woodstar At dawn, we birded a deep gulley which produced Aplomado Falcon, several Andean Hillstars, a flock of Mountain Parakeets, the uncommon White-throated Earthcreeper, Cream-winged Cinclodes, Chiguanco Thrush, Black-winged and Bare-faced Ground Doves as well as Black-throated Flowerpiercer, Blue-and- yellow Tanager, Black-hooded Sierra Finch, Band-tailed Seedeater and amazing Giant Hummingbirds; often mistaken for a bird not remotely related to hummingbirds e.g. a martin or even a falcon. 5 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Chile 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Diademed Sandpiper-Plover. One of the most amazing shorebirds in the world. Lauca National Park beckoned and our first visit almost turned into a full blown hoover job. We quickly located Ornate Tinamou, Andean Gull, Andean Goose, Crested Duck, Puna Ibis, Yellow-billed Teal on the first lakes, while cushion-plant bogs provided plump Rufous-bellied and Grey-breasted Seedsnipe, Andean Flicker, White-winged Cinclodes, Puna and White-fronted Ground Tyrants and White-winged Diuca Finches. A next lake stop provided us with good numbers of Andean and James's Flamingoes among a multitude of Chilean Flamingoes. Now, with a vast back drop of towering snow-capped volcanoes, we scoped some (very) distant Puna (Lesser) Rheas amongst the herds of Vicunas while two Mountain Caracaras cruised past. A short moon walk at 4500 metres produced abundant Giant Coots, Silvery and White-tufted Grebes, Andean Ducks, Puna Teal, Andean Lapwing and a single Andean Avocet. We cherry picked many other targets including Cordilleran Canastero, Puna Miner, Andean Negrito and Black Siskin. In the evening we enjoyed good views of a couple of Band-winged Nightjars near our accommodation. Next morning, things didn´t go as planned, but eventually we set out on a trek for the iconic Diademed Sandpiper-Plover. Half an hour later later, we were face to face with a stunning adult DSP together with a chick. The most-wanted bird of the trip for some of the participants, and thankfully we enjoyed terrific views amidst some very impressive scenery. Overhead, we also saw our first Andean Condor. Afterwards we decided to head back to the coast, in a last attempt to find the critically endangered Chilean Woodstar. This turned out to be a good decision, as, once at the spot, we had fantastic views of an adult male and a female woodstar at very close range. After an morning flight to Santiago, we were quickly on our way to the coast where Chimango Caracara, Austral Thrush, Common Diuca Finch and Long-tailed Meadowlark adorned the carpark, as Chilean Swallows foraged overhead. The beach and estuary held a throng of shorebirds, gulls and terns including Grey Plover, Hudsonian Godwit, South American Snipe, White-backed Stilt, Semipalmated Sandpiper, White-cheeked Pintail, Brown-hooded Gull amongs hundreds of Black Skimmers and Elegant and South American Terns. The reedbeds and surrounding shrubbery were teaming with birdlife including our target Ticking Doradito, and many views of stunning Many-coloured Rush Tyrant, Spectcled Tyrant, Wren-like Rushbird, Rufous-tailed Plantcutter, Fire-eyed Diucon, Yellow-winged Blackbird and Grassland Yellow Finch. 6 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Chile 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Our next lake stop was teaming with waterfowl including Black-necked and Coscoroba Swans, Red Shoveler, Yellow-billed Pintail, Lake Duck and the often elusive Black-headed Duck as well as Pied-billed, White-tufted, Great and Silvery Grebes, Red-gartered Coot and a smart Spot-flanked Gallinule.
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