A Super Yacht

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RB LEIPZIG BESPOKE CHOCOLATES ISSUE Inside Red Bull’s football project The luxury chocolate on the rise THE LONDON TAILOR THE NEW PHILANTHROPY 139 150 years of sartorial style The donors behind the arts

THE A-Z OF BUYING (AND RUNNING) A SUPER YACHT

The models, the essentials (including the hidden costs), plus beautiful routes for your new toy

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The business of life & living

Exclusive to Emirates First Class and Business Class

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF OBAID HUMAID AL TAYER MANAGING PARTNER & GROUP EDITOR IAN FAIRSERVICE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR GINA JOHNSON GROUP EDITOR MARK EVANS [email protected] SENIOR ART DIRECTOR SARA RAFFAGHELLO [email protected] DESIGNER RALPH MANCAO [email protected] SUB-EDITOR SALIL KUMAR [email protected] EDITORIAL ASSISTANT LONDRESA FLORES [email protected]

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Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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CONTENTS UPFRONT 18 FACEBOOK Can the tech giant’s stock keep rising? LIVING 74 22 HOTEL LA STYLE A haven on Sri Lanka’s An iconic Hollywood southern coast mansion with a modern twist 80 WHAT TO PACK 24 From Munich to HONG KONG Beijing, we’ve got PROPERTY you covered Why the territory’s property market is reaching boiling point 84 FOOD & DRINK An interview with the 34 inventor of the cronut, TOOLS OF TITANS Dominique Ansel Tim Ferriss’ interviews with the world’s top performers 88 EXHIBITION Larry Fink’s Milan exhibition 90 COLUMN Why everything you know about success is wrong

37,415 copies July - December 2016

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CONTENTS

FEATURES 36 SUPER YACHTS An inside look at the world of the super yachts: the brands, the destinations and the ups and downs of life on the water 44 RB LEIPZIG’S RISE AND RISE Red Bull’s football experiment has paid off, but not without them making a few enemies along the way 50 THE NEW PHILANTHROPY How technology and a new breed of philanthropists have changed modern philanthropy 58 LUXURY CHOCOLATES How the humble cocoa bean has transformed itself into one of the most sought after delicacies in the world 66 FLOWER POWER The flower industry is worth billions of dollars a year – we chart the past, present and future of this mammoth business

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HIVER IMPÉRIAL High Jewelry collection

High Jewelry Collection presented in Paris, French Riviera and London during Summer

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Bespoke wings Fancy taking the world’s fastest animal out for a spin in the priciest production SUV ever made?

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Bentley will even create an image of your prized bird on your dashboard if you so desire

entley surprised trout-catching fans too). You can even have your prized everyone when they Bentley is standing firmly by saker or peregrine ride upfront moved away from its love for the handmade amid with you thanks to the magnetic tradition and released the ever-rising tide of automation, perch that fits perfectly on the Bthe Bentayga just under two and they will even create an car’s central armrest (shotgun years ago: it’s the only car from image of your prized bird on your is well deserved considering top the British brand able to tame a dashboard if you so desire. The 400 falcons are traded for hundreds of desert dune, and it just happens finicky marquetry artwork takes individual thousands of dollars). to be the priciest production at least nine days to craft, and an pieces of Prices vary depending on SUV in the world (the 2018 average likeness uses more than wood are customisation, but you’ll pay from model will set you back just over 400 individual pieces of wood used to craft $70,000 for the kit, or $100,000 $280,000 in the UAE). from seven varieties. Lacewood, for the falcon with the falconry equipment Now desert heritage has instance, is the perfect mimic of a artwork and dashboard marquetry image tied up with British motoring rippled, wind-swept sand dune. on the (which is, quite frankly, the 16 PB thanks to the falconer’s kit that The falconry kits include a dashboard coolest bit). Pricey, yes, but let’s can be custom-made by artisans veneered drawer to store GPS all agree that a falconry-ready at Mulliner for the Bentayga: tracking kits, a refreshment case for Bentayga leaves the average Patrol the customisable set features your coffee (it’s a morning sport), as or Land Cruiser well and truly in everything you need for a falconry well as a cork fabric boot protector the dust. session (there’s a fly fishing kit for to help keep the car clean. Bentleymotors.com

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Non-EU residentsshopNon-EUcan Tax Freein store. Find more information at premiertaxfree.com City White Westfield Street Victoria 78 Square Sloane 35-38 BOSS Stores HUGO BOSS UK LTD. Phone +44 (0)20 7554 5700 hugoboss.com 55 Brompton Road 122 New Bond Street 178-180 Regent Street Street 178-180 Regent Street Bond 122 New Road Brompton 55 01.06.17 14:06 UPFRONT

Facebook futures Despite a rocky start, Facebook’s stock price has risen fast. Emma Woolacott examines where the price is likely to go

little over five years coming months and years? “When ago, Facebook held its they did the IPO, I said I think initial public offering that’s an extremely high price. – the biggest IPO in When you look at a tech share, techA history, and one of the most it’s important to say whether controversial. In the weeks leading there’s any substance behind the up to the event, analysts expressed company,” says John Strand of deep concerns about the company’s Strand Consult. “But if you look valuation and business model. And at what happened to Facebook when trading began, it was chaotic, after the IPO and how it evolved delayed by half an hour because and you compare to other tech of technical problems within the companies and how they’ve Nasdaq exchange. evolved over the same period, The perception remained that there’s no doubt Facebook has the company had been overvalued, been able to grow.” and the day after the IPO, its stock Facebook had 900 million closed below its offering price, at users at the time of the IPO; $34.03. The following day, the stock it now has nearly two billion, closed at $31, and it was more than and recently reported revenue a year until it traded above the growth of 51 per cent year- first day’s closing price of $38.37. on-year to $8.81 billion. Key It seemed the doom-mongers to the company’s success now were right. However, despite these and over the next few years is initially unpromising figures, it was mobile advertising – something 18 19 those early investors who had the of a weakness at the time of the last laugh. Today, Facebook shares IPO. These days, according to are trading at around $146 a share, PriceWaterhouseCoopers and an incredible 280 per cent rise. the Interactive Advertising But can the company keep Bureau, mobile ads account for this steady progress up over the more than half of total digital

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Sheryl Sandberg, billionaire and chief operating officer of Facebook, has taken a lot of the credit for the company’s performance

ad revenue, making it crucial to “Material slowdown in growth Facebook’s business. is what they’ve said and I don’t And the company is most think this has been fully accounted definitely hoovering up its share. for,” he says. He sees the company During the first quarter of this year, treading water to a degree while mobile ads accounted for 85 per new products and services such as cent of the company’s advertising gaming, media consumption and revenue, up from 82 per cent a search come online alongside the year ago to around $6.68 billion. original social network service. “More businesses around the Some extra services are world are shifting to marketing on already appearing, and are being mobile,” said chief operating officer monetised only gradually. The Sheryl Sandberg at the company’s Messenger messaging service was earnings call in May. spun off in 2014, but it’s only “More than 70 million recently that the company has businesses are now using Facebook started testing ads on it, along with Pages around the world on a bot functions allowing businesses monthly basis, and more and more to target consumers. It currently of them are becoming advertisers. has 1.2 million users. Meanwhile, We also recently announced that WhatsApp, which Facebook over five million businesses are bought in 2014, still isn’t turning actively advertising on Facebook, a profit. And while Instagram is including more than one million in growing fast – up from 600 million emerging markets,” she added. users in June 2016 to 700 million However, after the earnings now – it is so far believed to be call, the chief financial officer, doing little more than breaking David Wehner, warned that even. And other projects such as the company won’t be able to the company’s Oculus VR virtual maintain this rate of ad revenue reality system are even further growth through the second half of from making a profit. the year. This is partly a conscious “I don’t think they’re in a decision, with Facebook limiting situation yet to start generating the amount of advertising shown meaningful revenues. I think in news feeds with the aim of without these extra services the improving their quantity, rather targets for this year are too high,” than their quality. says Windsor. “I would be looking However, Facebook shares fell for these services to start maturing 18 19 4.2 per cent at the warning. And in 2018, with monetisation picking analyst Richard Windsor of research up later in 2018. Then another firm Radio Free Mobile says he three years of steady growth.” And, believes that limiting the number Strand says there’s some doubt as of ads will hit revenues harder to whether VR will ever contribute than the company is predicting. much to the bottom line. “No

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Nasdaq on May 17, 2012, the day before Facebook’s IPO, which opened at $38 per share

doubt it is an interesting path, but that’s not to say you can make money,” he says. “How much will be new revenue streams and how much cannibalising existing revenue streams?” Part of Facebook’s problem is that when it comes to its core social network business, there’s only so much opportunity for more growth. “If you look at companies where revenue is based on advertising – print media, online media, platforms like Twitter, Facebook and Google – then it’s important One area that could hamper future growth to ask are these key platforms, are these companies capable of is regulation: fake news and violent getting more customers onto their incidents streamed on Facebook Live have customer base?” says Strand. “Will Facebook be able to made governments nervous keep on growing their customer base, keep on adding new several high-profile political impossible without shutting the products and keep on monetising? campaigns, from the UK’s Brexit site down altogether, or blocking it They’re growing now in emerging vote to the US presidential election, at a national level – something that markets, but how much profit so-called fake news has proliferated no western nation is likely to be are they making on these across Facebook, while hate speech willing to do. Regulation is more groups?” Not nearly as much, is has also been on the rise. of a thorn in Facebook’s side than the answer. While the company And concern about undesirable $4.14 a practical threat to its business currently makes $16.56 in average content has been ramped up even The average model. “If the EU switched off advertising revenue per user, per further in recent months following amount of Facebook, I think the electorate year, in the US and Canada, it’s the streaming on Facebook Live of advertising would get pretty annoyed,” only making $4.14 in average several shocking events, including revenue Windsor says. Compromises, in advertising revenue worldwide. suicide and even the murder of a Facebook other words, look likely. New social network users are less baby. There are, frequently, calls makes And while the company lucrative than the old; and the from governments for proactive per user may be set for stormy waters as US and Canadian markets may censorship – but on a scale that each year regulatory issues are negotiated already be saturated, with two- would simply be impossible, and new services come online, thirds of the population active involving tens of thousands of most observers still see a bright users already. moderators. As Windsor says, future for Facebook. “I think 20 PB And there’s another big shadow “Bodies are not the answer – and it’s setting up nicely for another hovering over Facebook, in terms bodies don’t scale. Your wage bill period of growth,” says Windsor. of regulation. Governments are is going to go through the roof.” “I don’t care about Mark becoming increasingly concerned Fundamentally, eliminating Zuckerberg – I care about the about the lack of control over undesirable content from cash machine, Sheryl Sandberg. content posted on the site. During Facebook is more or less I’m a fan of Sheryl’s.”

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Single family home

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os Angeles is a city with a history, from the silver screens of yesteryear to the various moguls and tycoons that once called it home. And if ever a residence evoked memories of Lthe golden years of Hollywood, Maison Du Soleil it is. Situated on three acres in the Holmby Hills area of the city, this was designed in the 1930s by the United States renowned architect Paul Williams. With 60 rooms, the house mixes classic architecture with contemporary touches. At more than 30,000 feet, it’s the perfect PRICE $88 million place to entertain – and with 17 bedrooms and 22 bathrooms, it has enough room for even the biggest of parties. Movie buffs can watch the classics in the 22 23 6,000-square-foot movie theatre, while a pool and christiesreal- bathhouse allows you to soak up the Californian sun. estate.com Despite its size, this is a home – with enough personal touches and quirks to ensure a warm and inviting living space. Intimate yet grand, this is one of the finest homes on sale in California right now.

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Hong Kong’s property problem Kate Farr and Rachel Read explore Hong Kong’s property market, one of the world’s most expensive

olding the dubious Hong Kong. “These residential a similar view. “With retail distinction of being developments will attract upper- sales expected to be hitting the one of the world’s middle class consumers, and bottom, institutional investors most expensive cities therefore affordable luxury brands, have been actively pursuing retail Hin which to live and own property, to the area.” properties in urban fringe and entering the Hong Kong market Although much has been decentralised areas with potential is challenging for even the most made of Hong Kong’s recent value-add opportunities,” he says. experienced of buyers. But slump in retail sales, Gaffney “Investment sentiment for office although the city’s property bubble explains that, far from dragging properties stayed robust, especially has long since been forecast to the market down, it has created in core-CBD areas, following a burst, the market continues to go new opportunities within the recent record sales price for the from strength to strength, despite commercial sector. “Increased Murray Road Car Park site,” adds concerns about affordability, vacancy on prime streets has Reeves Yan, Colliers’ executive coupled with recent government- pulled prime retail rents down by director of capital markets and led cooling measures. 30 per cent. More prudent tourist $3bn investment services. While the Central business spending has caused a double-digit This unassuming-sounding plot Amount district has traditionally been drop in sales at major shopping paid for a is now the most expensive piece the beating heart of commerce malls since 2014. On the one 460,000sqft of land ever sold in Hong Kong. in Asia’s World City, there is hand, luxury retailers have been car park in Bought by developer Henderson an increasing trend amongst suffering from weaker tourist the centre of Land, who outbid eight other businesses faced with the consumer buying power, but on Hong Kong developers to seal the deal for city’s notoriously punishing the other hand, this has created $3 billion, this 460,000 square commercial rents to diversify opportunities for international foot site sits in the heart of the from these locations to keep costs brands and mid-range retailers to Central CBD and is slated to competitive. “Causeway Bay, expand in Hong Kong.” In fact, become a landmark mixed-use Central and Tsim Sha Tsui remain according to CBRE Research, retail and office building by 2022. the focus for luxury retail brands, Hong Kong had the world’s most Early forecasts suggest that, once but there are many small-to- new market entrants in 2015 and complete, Henderson will sell units medium scale retail podiums and 2016, supporting the suggestion at approximately 7,700 per square 24 $ 25 shopping malls being developed that, far from being in decline, foot – far surpassing the current alongside new residential projects Hong Kong’s retail market record of $5,100 at the existing 9 in decentralised areas such as Yuen remains extremely buoyant. Queen’s Road Central site. Long, North Point and Tseung Nigel Smith, managing director Meanwhile, on the residential Kwan O,” says Tom Gaffney, of commercial real estate firm side of the market, Hong Kong’s managing director of CBRE Colliers International, holds traditional upscale locations

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“Prices are 16 times the average household median income, one of the worst ratios in the world”

remain popular with homeowners, while once again, investors look further afield for improved returns. “Prestigious locations like The Peak and South Side are dominated by wealthy family end users, where investors mainly focus on new hotspots like South Horizons or Kennedy Town – districts recently covered by MTR lines,” says Clara Chu, senior director of residential services at Colliers International. “We rarely see investors buying prestigious locations for leasing, as the yields are lower than the smaller units in those hotspot areas, which can be easily rented out.” And what of Hong Kong’s most visible external investors, once renowned for big-ticket property purchases? “Even gigantic PRC [mainland Chinese] investors who own residential properties in those prestigious areas treat them as a Despite prices that remain Panorama view address this issue and cool the holiday house or leave them empty unaffordable for the majority, of Kennedy Town, overheated property market. rather than leasing them out,” appetite for property continues to Hong Kong. The Applicable taxes now include a background is says Chu. “This is why the capital remain high across all residential Kowloon West stamp duty of between 1.5 and 8.5 value and rent remain popular and market sectors. “Property prices per cent for permanent residents stable in these prestigious locations have reached record high levels. and 15 per cent for non-permanent among the wealthy end user.” From an affordability perspective, residents, along with a further 15 “The luxury market in general prices are already at 16 times the per cent buyer’s stamp duty for commands very low yields, as low average household median income non-PRs; investors looking to flip 26 27 as 1.5 per cent, as the investment level – one of the worst ratios in homes for a quick profit are also play is mostly from a capital the world,” adds Abraham. subject to a 10 to 20 per cent duty appreciation perspective,” agrees A number of government if they have owned a property for Stella Abraham, head of residential demand-side management less than 24 months. leasing and relocation services at measures have been rolled out Yet despite the implementation Jones Lang LaSalle. in recent years in an attempt to of these additional fees, Hong

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be the answer. “While properties in prime urban locations are constantly sought-after, there is a segment of buyers who look for unique properties found in non- traditional locations,” he says. Although located in a rural coastal location that is considered far-flung by most Hong Kongers’ standards, Swire Properties’ new Whitesands development taps into this demand for higher-end properties in unusual settings. “Located in South Lantau, the buyers of these properties are willing to make a lifestyle investment,” To says. The low-density development of 28 detached houses launched in 2016, and with six homes already sold, is spearheading the trend for wealthy buyers frustrated by low supply in more established locations. And what of those who are looking to purchase property strictly as an investment? Are there quick gains to be made for strategic purchasers? Ryan Jenkins, associate partner at wealth management advisory firm St James’ Place, advises a cautious approach. “We generally take a long-term view on investments and would not want to speculate on short-term price movements,” he says. “We suggest that any purchase decision should be considered on an individual basis, taking into account an investor’s financial position and objectives. “Investors who are already highly exposed to local properties Kong’s ever-keen buyers remain stagnant salaries. “The overall as a percentage of their asset base undeterred. “Since the demand market’s residential property prices and who may employ substantial side measures were implemented have risen 7.1 per cent through the leverage, for example, mortgages, in 2009, prices have already close first four months of 2017. Given may be best advised to consider to doubled, suggesting that the the still-upbeat sentiment, we deleveraging and diversifying across measures had limited impact on expect prices to rise between 10 other asset classes and geographic the upward price trend,” says and 15 per cent for the full year.” exposures to reduce risk.” Abraham. “There are still many So with prices remaining With the Hong Kong property buyers willing to enter the market buoyant, what are the options scene looking unlikely to 26 27 at this price point – once again, for would-be homeowners and experience any dramatic changes in suggesting there is still a demand- investors looking to get the best the near future, informed research, supply imbalance in the market.” value and choice at the upper end diversification and a long-term The statistics back up this of the market? Adrian To, Swire view seem like the way forward for supposition, as she forecasts Properties’ director of residential, anyone looking to dabble in this

another record year, despite overall suggests that diversification could most dizzying of markets. SHENZHEN PROPERTY Hong Kong, has also seen a dramatic rise in from the border Shenzhen, the Chinese city of nearly 12 million across as a reinvention than 70 per cent in the past two years, partly due to city’s more years. Prices rose prices in recent population non-locals, many of them with high-paying With than 90 per cent of the city’s more Chinese ‘Silicon Valley’. market saw huge rises. jobs, the property

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The sartorialists David G Taylor visits Hunstman, Saville Row tailors with a storied past

ou’re probably more skills while training as a tailor on familiar with the British Savile Row and now helps cash- bespoke tailoring brand rich, time-poor clients attain the Huntsman than you’re edge that presenting well can bring evenY aware. Its plush Savile Row in business, as in life. “Huntsman store was the backdrop for 2014’s offers a story and a style of their British spy comedy Kingsman: The very own, born of their traditional Secret Service, it popped up again material, cut and design,” he says. in the video for Take That’s single “If my clients request British Get Ready For It, and its work has heritage and exquisite tailoring,” long been seen on an impressive says Johnson, “I’d recommend array of A-list actors from Freddie Huntsman immediately.” Fox, David Oyelowo and Brad Originally known as H Pitt, back to Hollywood greats Huntsman, the tailoring house such as Clark Gable, Lawrence made its name as a manufacturer Olivier and Marlene Dietrich. of riding gaiters and breeches Despite being labelled the in 1849. The Prince of Wales “most expensive establishment (later Edward VII) bestowed The Huntsman open-plan pattern-cutting studio. on the Row” by The New York the company with its first Royal store on Savile As Huntsman legend goes, the Times, it’s a brand that seems Warrant and soon it was the Row has been taxidermy was left behind in the used in films and inescapable. Gregory Peck was destination for riding and country music videos 1920s when a customer having a a such fan of Huntsman that he attire. Customers entering fitting popped out for lunch and wore the brand in his private Huntsman’s 11 Savile Row got so drunk he never returned. life and on screen, even battling store today could be forgiven for A scarlet hunting jacket is one of malevolent forces in a memorable thinking not much has changed several vintage items displayed tweed Huntsman overcoat for the since the company relocated around the store, alongside framed 30 31 1976 horror film, The Omen. there in 1919. With its lounge photos of famous patrons such “Not every tailor’s shop can area and a pair of mounted stag as actor Nicole Kidman, King boast a clientele or a story like heads, the shop has the ambience George VI and Chinese model and Huntsman,” says style consultant of an English gentleman’s club, superstar, Hu Bing. Daniel Johnson. He should know. betrayed only by the hushed Leading off the main room is Johnson honed his own sartorial diligence of those working in an the small fitting room famously

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series, bought Huntsman in 2013. Vaughn himself has been a devotee of the brand since his mother treated him to his first bespoke suit, aged 18. For a company that shuns paid advertising, the film series is a clever PR coup. “Our mission at Huntsman is to make young people and today’s gentleman aware that bespoke is current, modern and young,” Lagrange tells Portfolio. “Kingsman did just that,” he says. “It really highlighted to people you don’t have to be old to access bespoke suits.” Under Lagrange, Huntsman has found a number of clever ways to catch the attention of potential customers of late, from its online video miniseries, Treasures from Chatsworth, produced by Sotheby’s, to becoming Huntsman’s prestigious appointment as new tailor-in- residence at the nearby five-star Brown’s Hotel. “There is something about the fit of a garment that has been made just for you that is exceptional: a second skin,” says Lagrange, who admits it was “the style of Huntsman, the legacy, the elegance of what the tailors were doing”, that convinced him to buy the company. “As a client of luxury, I don’t like to buy for the season, I buy things I can use again and again. Huntsman is about style that lasts forever. Garments you want to “There’s something about the fit of a garment wear today, tomorrow and in 50 years’ time,” he adds. that’s been made just for you that’s exceptional” In today’s competitive marketplace, how does the replicated for the Kingsman door to Samuel L Jackson. “It brand attract new business film. The blockbuster – starring was an unforgettable couple without alienating its long- Colin Firth and shot by Kick- of days on set at Warner Bros. standing customers? “We don’t Ass director Matthew Vaughn studio in Watford,” Carey says. compromise,” Lagrange insists. – proved such a hit that a sequel “The entire Huntsman shop was “Our young clientele come 30 31 is being released this September recreated, piece by piece, in a to Huntsman to have similar called Kingsman: The Golden Circle giant warehouse.” garments made [to those] that and, reportedly, a third film is The Kingsman connection runs our older clientele loves us for. in the pipeline. Creative director deeper than you might expect. What is new is the lighter and Campbell Carey even had cameo Belgian financier Pierre Lagrange, more adaptable fabrics, the role, opening the fitting room the executive producer of the accessories and the lining

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personalisation.” Huntsman’s “Our young clientele have similar garments special commission jacket and coat linings now further blur made to those our older clientele love us for” the line between art and fashion with bold images by the likes of Caracciolo for this year’s Venice and head cutter, alongside René Magritte and Francis Bacon Biennale, replicating her semi- co-head cutter Dario Carnera, printed on silk. abstract work Pine Needles on the has definitely breathed new life “Its the ultimate luxury to be linings of 11 limited-edition jackets into the brand. Forward thinking able to personalise your garment to raise money for charity. The has seen the reintroduction of a with something cherished by you,” project follows a collaboration with men’s ready-to-wear collection says Lagrange. “Whether this is a American Ed Ruscha. A jacket lined $26k – boasting tailoring, shirting and piece of art or a speech someone with the artist’s 1987 painting Boy Amount paid accessories, plus an exclusive very dear to you has made. Our Meets Girl benefitted America’s for a special new range of tweeds inspired by clients value us for the fact that Alzheimer’s Association to the tune Huntsman those worn by Gregory Peck in you can decipher our Huntsman of $26,000. Only six such jackets jacket at an the 1950s and ’60s. One of them, silhouette but it’s not branded. The even exist; one of them given to a reworking of 1952 Huntsman 32 auction 33 same goes for wearing your own American Gigolo actress Lauren hound’s-tooth cloth, is the art inside your jacket. It’s all about Hutton who owns the original first cashmere tweed produced having a discreet, private luxury.” Ruscha painting, as well as several in-house in 50 years. Huntsman is working with Huntsman jackets and tuxedos. A more concerted effort to get contemporary artists too. It The recent appointment of the products seen by Huntsman’s collaborated with Italian Beatrice Campbell Carey, creative director truly international clientele has

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SAVILE ROW The home of British tailoring for centuries, Savile Row is synonymous for its suits. Tailors were initially attracted to the street due to the well-off residents that lived nearby: perfect customers for their menswear. Although none of the original tailors are still around, Henry Poole & Co, who moved onto the street in 1846, still have a presence. Henry Poole is credited with inventing the dinner jacket, when he made a smoking jacket for Edward VII in 1860. These days the street is home to many different tailors, some more traditional than others. Ozwald Boateng is one designer who has helped modernise Savile Row’s offering. As much a piece of sartorial history as a place to buy clothes, Savile Row is a must for any style-conscious man who happens to find himself in the English capital.

seen the expansion of its ‘trunk The interiors (probably our longest standing uncompromising Britishness, says shows’ that now include regular and exterior of clientele) that we could be doing Carnera. “From the silhouette of visits to nine of Asia’s major Huntsman evoke a a much better job by offering our coats, to the cloths from which bygone glamour cities, the East and West Coasts of them the service of a pied-a-terre they are cut, all of our exclusive the United States, Europe and the in New York. house cloths are produced in Middle East, allowing overseas “Our chairman is a real Britain,” he says. clients access to the Huntsman visionary. However, he recognises “Our suiting fabrics are woven bespoke team at least three to that the bespoke ethos at the heart in Huddersfield in the north of four times a year. of the business must be protected England, our flannels are from Last year, Huntsman also and nurtured. Having a team all the west of England and our became the first Savile Row store pulling in one direction is very tweeds are all from Islay in the to take up permanent residence exciting. I’m sure prospective western isles of Scotland. We will 32 33 in New York. Situated on West clients get a feel for that mojo, of course make a suit from, say, 57th Street, it’s so exclusive, it’s when stopping by the ever- an Italian cloth if requested. But accessible only by appointment. bustling Huntsman these days.” I think a British suit of clothes, “When I bought the business,” Loved by Cecil Beaton, David made from British cloth, takes Lagrange says, “I was surprised Bowie and Alexander McQueen, some beating.” to see with our American clients key to Huntsman’s appeal is its huntsmansavilerow.com

PF_72017.P30-33_Upfront_TheBusiness.indd 33 6/19/17 6:04 PM JULY JULY ISSUE 139 UPFRONT / CLASSIC READ UPFRONT / CLASSIC READ ISSUE 139 Tools Of Titans By Tim Ferriss

The morning routines of the rich and famous consist of exercise, meditation and lots of green tea

Kevin Rose to Chase Jarvis to Seth Godin. There’s also bonus chapters on how to create a real- world MBA, how to get 1,000 true fans and how to say ‘no’ when it matters the most. The third and final section focuses on wisdom, which looks at the mental and spiritual tools you can use to build success. We hear from the likes of Jamie Foxx, Sam Harris, Alain de Botton and General Stanley McChrystal, who talk about fear, the mental side of success and meditation. Ferriss writes that “being busy is a form of laziness – lazy im Ferriss is something the result is an actionable set of thinking and indiscriminate of a hero to a generation tools that anyone can use. For action”. For Ferriss, and the of entrepreneurs and example, he talks in depth about subjects featured in the book, tech executives. His morning routines and why they action without a plan (and without T2007 book, The 4-Hour Week, put look like for the best of the best. measurement) leads nowhere. him on the map, showcasing a Answer? Lots of meditation, lots This book could have easily way of life that involved ‘mini- of workouts and lots of green tea. been a ‘best of’ compilation retirements’, remote working and The book is broken up into from Ferriss’ podcast, but it’s passive income. His follow up, three sections: Healthy, Wealthy much more than that, largely The 4-Hour Body, was equally and Wise. Healthy features some of 60 thanks to Ferriss’ curation and popular, revealing a series of the world’s best athletes (everyone the bonus content. While many Number ‘hacks’ to improve everything from strength trainers to champion of downloads books in the self-help genre are from strength to sleep. Now, surfers) talking about their habits (in millions) wishy-washy, Tools Of Titans is there’s this, Tools Of Titans, a and mindset. of the Tim direct, clear and actionable, and series of takeaways from his From nootropics to ultra- Ferriss Show filled with insight from some of ultra-successful podcast, The marathons, the health section is the world’s top performers. Tim Ferriss Show. On that, he applicable to the couch potatoes At 650 pages long, this is a deep dives into topics with his and the reasonably active alike, book to dip in and out of rather 34 PB guests – all of whom are A-List: and its position at the start of the than devour in one session, everyone from tech billionaire book underlines its importance and there is enough here to Peter Thiel to Tony Robbins to – in Ferriss’ mind at least – to satisfy the most curious of self- Arnold Schwarzenegger. This lasting success. help aficionados, or even those book is the best bits from the 200 The Wealthy section features looking to take the next step up interviews he has conducted and a litany of tech icons, from the career ladder.

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ALL AT SEA David Whelan investigates the world of super yachts

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1. THE SHOW

It’s like a city at sea – a constellation of leisurely living spaces, entertainment zones that obfuscate the difference between the indoor and outdoors, and private rooms that extend as far as the eye can see. The city has about one hundred and twenty-five addresses with a tent village around its outskirts. Beyond that is Monaco proper – but for once the principality is not the star of the show. September, you see, is for the Monaco Yacht Festival. Other festivals have more yachts – Cannes, for instance, hosted 600 yachts at its 2016 festival – but Monaco can lay claim to the largest of yachts. It’s a festival of super yachts, the varietal of private boats exceeding 30 metres in length. There are also mega yachts, which clock in at a minimum of 100 metres. The super yachts are packed into the harbour of Port Hercules but cannot all be fitted there; yet more are anchored out at sea, in their natural environment. The festival, like the super yachts themselves, has been stead- ily growing. These are elegant ships, but at a certain point sub- tlety becomes a challenge. You can’t hide these boats; you can only accommodate them. In 2015, for instance, the festival added 12 berths for yachts that exceeded 80 metres in length. The average yacht in 2016 clocked in at 45.77 metres, which the organisers helpfully point out was a 26 per cent increase from the previous year. Size matters here. Placed end to end, these yachts would stretch for 5.7 kilometres, a distance that would earn a bridge its place in a list of the world’s hundred longest such spans. A bridge, however, is an eminently practical way of 38 thinking about such distances. India’s Mahatma Gandhi Setu bridge covers the same distance as this line of super yachts but accommodates 85,000 vehicles and 12,000 pedestrians daily. A super yacht at capacity will accommodate a couple dozen people. It is not a vehicle for getting you from point A to B – though it can surely do that – but for rethinking that journey.

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The average yacht size at the 2016 Monaco Yacht Festival was nearly 46 metres. Size matters here

The sheer scale of Monaco’s production is such that the scene cannot readily be captured. When it is not out at sea, a small structure in a vast body of water, a super yacht is all you can see. To take in more than a hundred at once, then, is a challenge. The yachts in Monaco extend into the horizon, where, for all you know, there might be more. The scene is therefore often filmed by roving drones. In video compilations, this footage is set to resounding orchestral music. That, one imagines, is what life actually sounds like when you join the yachting classes: all swoon- ing strings and blaring brass sections; your every move provoking swelling crescendos that would make Gustav Holst blush; your every step dictating the beat of the timpani. To the extent that the whole festival is a city at sea, each yacht is also its own city-state. It comes replete with systems to support a small community and with appropriate quarters for staff that will keep your village at sea running smoothly. You didn’t 2. really think you’d lubricate the engine or work in the kitchen of THE BOATS your super yacht, did you? The super yacht is a vehicle for spe- cialists as opposed to hobbyists; you don’t pilot it around the bay for an afternoon and call yourself a sailor. Specialise in something The Serene is about 134 metres long, which leaves ample room else, like choosing which outdoor dining space to use. There is for just about any activity to live up to its name. The super yacht a certain frisson of excitement that comes with owning a craft – call it a personal cruise ship if you prefer; nobody will put that appears to have been drawn from the opening scene of The up a fight – is reported to include a climbing wall, movie thea- Bourne Identity or where a mutiny is a numerical possibility. To tre, nightclub, two hot tubs and a swimming pool. There’s more be clear, there is no record of such events occurring. The super to the Serene, naturally. Space in this article, unlike on a super yacht, however, inhabits a world in which all sorts of possibilities yacht, is finite, so suffice it to say that the Serene has a helipad, that most people would never dream of can be considered. because helicopters are convenient and you can’t just pull your To consider buying a super yacht, then, is to engage with yacht into any dock and move on. Anyhow, it’s allegedly one of questions about luxury, leisure and mobility. That’s part of the the 20 largest super yachts at sea, a ranking that is shrouded in excitement. You do many things on a regular, near-daily basis, secrecy because discretion is part of what you pay for when you but buying a super yacht is not one of them. You are in unchart- buy a super yacht. ed waters, still searching for the ship and crew that can navigate Here’s what we do know: the Serene was built in Italy by these currents. Let’s do something about that. Fincantieri, which has a sister branch for building cruise ships, based on an exterior design by Espen Oeino and interior plans by Reymond Langton Design. This arrangement is instructive and typical when building a super yacht. It’s a process somewhere between building a house and a private jet. It relates to the lat- 40 ter aspect insofar as you’re building a vehicle with propulsion and whatnot. Private planes, however, exist within prescribed shells. Since a wider range of shapes will float than fly, exterior architecture is also a function of super yacht design. The placement of windows and the curvature of surfaces can be adjusted to achieve the perfect balance of elegance and aggression.

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Shipyards and designers can accommodate your requests. tical yacht. Super yachts are sufficiently rare that such a prob- That, in a sense, is what they’re there for. Each company or lem is not commonplace. Rather, certain yachts share a lineage; craftsperson, mind you, has a signature style. Much as con- they’re part of the same family tree, if you will. As with thor- sumers go to Bugatti, Bentley or Burberry to fulfil specific oughbreds, it’s the sort of kinship that, instead of devaluing each visions of luxury, they do the same in the super yacht space. ship, only adds to their rich bloodline. Perini Navi, for instance, specialises in yachts that combine Whether or not one starts from scratch, though, there are modern cabins with the majesty of sails. Fincantieri, which still plenty of choices to be made in the super yacht space. This, built Serene, traffics in sensuous curves that might fuel your in large part, is because there’s so much space for one to pro- dreams of cruising along the Riviera. Arcadia Yachts, mean- ject these choices: room configurations, lifestyle preferences and while, has a boxier house style with vertical bows that trans- materials. The super yacht M/Y Ability, for instance, makes copi- mit a certain blunt aggression; these are yachts for the aspir- ous use of animal prints in its interior spaces. This may not be to ing Bond villain – not that there’s anything wrong with that. your taste – in fact it probably isn’t – but that’s sort of the point. Other builders, such as Benetti, Feadship, or Blohm+Voss A super yacht is a freeing space to express such personal tastes. exist somewhere on this continuum. The real question here is not whether you’d go with animal prints House style is a particular concern – again, you probably wouldn’t – but what because some yacht builders, like Benetti, your equivalent choice is. There are wilder have existing super yacht models you can Each yacht designer choices to be made on super yachts, mind customise to expedite the design and deliv- you. Some of the largest come with eleva- has their own 41 ery process. There’s still plenty of room tors. The 162.5-metre-long Eclipse includes for customisation – where exactly would personal style, the lasers to detect and block paparazzi camer- you like that hot tub, sir? – but the basic same way Bugatti as. Rising Sun, another super yacht, includes outlines of the ship and its mechanics are or Burberry have a basketball court and wine cellar, because already sketched in. You needn’t worry why not? There is basically nothing you can- about running into someone with an iden- not do at sea.

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How many times in your life will you acquire a super yacht? Once, they are indeed, but brokers can also be involved in the con- most likely. The prospect can be daunting, even if you have pur- struction of new super yachts. The brokerage firm Edmiston, chased one before. It’s too easy to become lost in a metaphori- for instance, offers to assemble a dream team, manage bids cal sea of choices before your yacht even meets the water. So, it’s and budgets, and oversee the production of a super yacht for probably best to find some experts. Super yachts are, by their very prospective owners. They possess existing relationships with nature, too big for you to go it alone. shipyards that can be leveraged to turn a vision for a yacht – a The shipyard is the obvious place to start. They’ve done this few curves and staterooms on paper – into a reality. before. If you’re building from the ground [or is that dry dock?] Brokerages, beyond project management in new construc- up, that’s where many of the decisions will get made. Thousands tion, serve a remarkably versatile purpose. Most obviously, of components and sub-components go into a super yacht. You they negotiate an active secondary market for the sale and will feel strongly about some of them – Jacuzzi, anyone? Other rental of existing yachts and super yachts. The aforementioned components just have to work quietly in the background; so super yacht Serene was built for vodka magnate Yuri Shefler, long as the power works and the ship goes in its intended direc- leased to Bill Gates for a summer, and later sold to Prince tion, do the finer mechanical points really Mohammed Bin Salman of Saudi Arabia matter to the owner or their passengers? For in its first four years. Eager investors will everything to work, mind you, someone has Many brokers also happily note that its value appreciated in to care about these invisible details. That’s a that time. Brokerages represent the various 42 operate as a sort of job for the experts. concierge, ensuring sides in these transactions, spotting oppor- Other, less obvious, forms of expertise tunities for refitting yachts to new owners’ may also come into play. Yacht brokers have your yacht is ready specifications. As with any other transac- a versatile role in this system. One normal- wherever you are tion, you could proceed without a broker, ly thinks of brokers as being involved in the but in so doing you’d forego both expertise sale and purchase of finished yachts, which and built-in networks.

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4. AT SEA

In a sense, the point of a super yacht is to go nowhere fast. If your only interest is getting from one place to the next, maritime travel ceased to be of interest in the mid-to-late 20th century. Some locations, however, hold a certain appeal for the super yachting classes. Greece, Croatia, the French Riviera, Cuba and Helicopter pads and luxury interiors are standard in the world of the super yachts the Seychelles all constitute popular destinations. All offer com- binations of islands, inlets and beaches to explore. Correlation is not causation, but the waters really do seem more vibrantly blue wherever super yachts congregate. An added consideration: there are only so many places where you can dock a super yacht. This is not a huge problem inso- The role of a super yacht broker, mind you, is not directly anal- far as tender ships – or in the largest cases, heliports – allow for ogous to that of a real estate broker. Though a super yacht will like- land access. That said, super yacht-friendly ports tend to symbol- ly make you wish you spent more time at sea, you are unlikely to ise alternate destinations. Port de Gustavia in St Barths and Yas spend every minute of your life aboard the craft. It will, however, Marina in Abu Dhabi stand out in this regard. The latter accom- require attention in your absence. Many yacht brokerages offer to modates yachts as long as 150 metres. For good measure, there’s oversee this process, making sure that your super yacht is ready a Ferrari theme park nearby. whenever you are. The yacht brokerage Burgess, for instance, offers Travel to these destinations is the real point, however. Sea vis- to oversee maintenance and compliance with maritime law and tas and rock formations gently pass in the distance as you relax local regulations. on an upper deck – but which one? Suddenly it makes sense that Other staff will surely be required. You didn’t really plan on every other yacht is named after a synonym for serene: unper- navigating, maintaining the engine and enjoying the hot tub all turbed, centred, tranquil. The only test of a good yacht name is at once, did you? The most important of these hires is a captain, if it’s improved with a velvety intonation, as if you were about to who, in turn, helps to select much of the crew. The logic here is close your eyes and feel the breeze from the owner’s suite. Come straightforward: the captain knows what matters in a first mate or to think of it, maybe that’s just what you need right now. It’s just engineer, so his or her expertise is to be relied upon. But broker- you, hundreds of tonnes of ships, and the water. Where to next? ages and yacht management firms also play a part in this process. Companies such as Luxury Yacht Group or Super Yacht Sales and 43 Charter offer to assemble crews for the owners they represent. In a meaningful sense, a super yacht is incomplete without a crew; it is a largely theoretical concept without those who make it function at sea. A considerable human workforce goes into helping you be alone with the waves, and firms in this space can ensure those staff- ers are up to the task.

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ENERGY FLASH

Richard Buxton explores the controversial rise of RB Leipzig and examines how Red Bull has used sport to build its brand

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t all started with Franz Beckenbauer. The German football legend and Bayern Munich icon is unwittingly responsible for the rise of RB Leipzig, after he suggested to Red Bull’s co-founder, Dietrich Mateschitz, that he should set up the firm’s latest Isporting tie-up in the German city of Leipzig. Mateschitz followed Beckenbauer’s advice, and RB Leipzig’s sporting director, Ralf Rangnick, who has the team – founded in 2009 – has risen up the helped turn the club into a footballing force ranks faster than anyone predicted, and caused a heap of controversy along the way. It wasn’t the first time the Austrian energy drink giant had looked to the city. Germany’s Football Association (DFB) had vetoed a pro- posed takeover of FC Sachsen Leipzig in 2006. Mateschitz’s attempts to take his operations into the country’s footballing heartland also back- fired as 1860 Munich, Fortuna Dusseldorf and FC St Pauli vehemently opposed Red Bull’s over- tures. Focus shifted back to Leipzig and two of the city’s established clubs, but with Sachsen fac- ing eventual liquidation and Lokomotive Leipzig’s RB Leipzig’s main coup, however, was the appoint- dubious reputation with supporter disorder, the ment of Ralf Rangnick. Under his direction, both lesser-known SSV Markranstadt emerged as the as sporting director and interim manager for the forerunner. Situated 13km west of Leipzig, the 2015/16 campaign, the club has adopted a youth club’s playing licence was reportedly bought for policy that targets players under 24. It explains why less than $400,000 by Red Bull; a small price to 24 is the current squad’s average age – the young- pay for Red Bull’s gateway into German football. est in the Bundesliga. It is a policy with a few draw- There were issues from the start. Attempts to backs, as the 58-year-old discovered in passing up incorporate the company’s branding into Leipzig’s the chance to sign a Jamie Vardy in 2012 due to the name were stopped by DFB legislation, which striker, who went on to feature in Leicester City’s ensured there would be no repeat of Red Bull’s remarkable Premier League title triumph, being marketing strategy in New York (the New York Red one year outside of their age restrictions. The idea Bulls), Salsburg (FC Red Bull Salzburg) and Brazil behind the rule is a simple one: players that offer (Red Bull Brasil). Red Bull got around this by incor- a greater level of physical intensity through their porating its branding into the club crest and its nick- youth and hunger are preferable to those offering name (The Red Bulls). Mateschitz’s initial goal seniority alone. Experience, the club believes, is was to reach the Bundesliga’s top tier within a dec- better served from within its ranks rather than sim- ade. While it would be easy to compare their strat- ply being parachuted in. egy to those of European nouveau riche clubs such as So far, the strategy is working. Witness the likes Manchester City and Paris St Germain, the strate- of Joshua Kimmich, now a staple of Bayern’s mid- gy has been based on one taken from Major League field, or Leipzig’s star player, Timo Werner. Not Baseball. The ‘Moneyball’ philosophy is a statistics- only did the striker become Europe’s highest-scor- based model first used by the Oakland A’s base- ing player aged 21 and under since arriving from 45 ball team in the early 2000s, one that eschewed big Stuttgart for $11.2 million – a club record – last spending and looked to statistics instead. summer, but he also became one of only five play- Leipzig’s approach has also been reflected in ers in Bundesliga history to score 19 goals or high- a continued search for the best development tal- er in a league season. Another standout player ent, assisted by the likes of Gerard Houllier, who has been Emil Forsberg: his 19 assists the highest helped cultivate France’s 1998 World Cup team. across Europe’s top five leagues.

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Leipzig’s Marcel Sabitzer scores a goal against Eintracht Frankfurt

Naby Keita is proof of the benefits of Red Bull’s an average figure of 41,454 for their maiden global network as one of nine first-team players to Bundesliga season – an increase of over 12,000 arrive directly from Salzburg, the club’s unofficial on the previous 12 months. Red Bull have also feeder club, in a move not too dissimilar to the rela- rebranded the stadium in their name as part of a tionship between Watford, Udinese and Granada – sponsorship deal until 2040, which could surpass all clubs owned by the Pozzo family. its club’s tenancy due to expansion plans that “If you see what the club have been doing over reflect their bold ambitions. A measured degree TIMELINE the past few years, in the way that it came from the of realism has belatedly been factored into their lower divisions to the first division, it was a sign that grandiose plans, with initial talk of building a big things could happen,” says RBL’s Brazilian mid- purpose-built 80,000-seat stadium – the second May fielder, Bernardo. “That it was a club who could at highest in the country – shelved as quickly as it 2009 some point challenge the big teams and [challenge was declared. Plans to increase the capacity to for the top],” he says. “But to do that in the first 57,000 have also been scaled back, despite receiv- RB Leipzig Bundesliga season was a big surprise to everyone. ing clearance from the local authority, to 50,000. officially founded Maybe [after] two or three seasons, people would Even that incremental leap from the current fig- expect that because the team has been doing well ure of 42,959 carries uncertainties with the club’s for years. It’s a young team but it went up five divi- expectancy of a return on their investment with- July sions in seven years. It’s a successful story.” in two years leaving zero room for compromise. Strategic long-term thinking has also been Changes, albeit smaller-scale ones, are still set to 2010 key to RBL’s success, with their parent compa- be made to the stadium with its VIP section due ny’s commitment to youth further reflected by an to be increased by a further 500 seats this sum- Relocated to Zentralstadion investment of $73 million in a new training facil- mer to satisfy demands for its Champions League ity, which also houses the club’s youth academy. foray next season. Off the field, turnout for home games barely rose Red Bull’s overall commitment to sport remains beyond the 7,500 mark during their first four sea- unquestionable. Salzburg, one of Leipzig’s sis- 46 May sons but did little to deter a 10-year lease being ter clubs, have won the Austrian Bundesliga eight 2011 agreed for the Zentralstadion, East Germany’s times in 12 seasons since their takeover, in contrast only host venue at the 2006 World Cup. to three in 72 years in its original, non-branded Promoted from Rental rates were fixed to reflect the club’s on- guise. Salsburg’s ice hockey team has experienced NOFV-Oberliga Sud field progress and since the 2013/14 campaign, a similar level of success through the company’s attendances have risen sharply year on year with involvement since the turn of the new millennium,

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RB Leipzig’s rise has been mired in controversy, with many German football fans seeing the club as upstarts

lifting six championships as well as being crowned Continental Cup winners in 2010. This summer, just 90 miles across from the Austrian border, Red Bull’s Munich team is celebrating successive German ice hockey titles. Further emphasis of the company’s youth strategy saw Sebastian Vettel recruited to help the company’s Formula 1 team win four successive Constructors’ Championships between 2010 and 2013. Red Bull’s success with Leipzig has set the rules permitting only one Red Bull-affiliated com- standard for a sustainable football business model, pany to compete in the Champions League. By although other firms attempting to copy Red Bull sheer virtue of their respective league finishes, have met with varying degrees of success. Evian’s Salzburg would be afforded the place in spite of stewardship of Thornon Gaillard, a French ama- the company’s notable shift in favouritism towards teur club, began in the same summer that Leipzig its German counterparts. This is unlikely, howev- was founded. They won promotion to Ligue 1 for er, and RBL’s aim is to get out of the Champion’s the 2011/12 season where they secured a credible League group stages. ninth-place finish, just ahead of Marseille. The fol- RBL’s rise has, on one hand, been a revolution July lowing campaign saw them reach the Coupe de fashioned on diligence, but it has also been mired France final, losing 3-2 to Bordeaux after a last- in controversy. In a country where a supporter- 2011 minute goal. But parent company Danone’s with- based ‘50+1’ ownership model remains king, crit- Enter DFB-Pokal drawal of backing just 12 months later, following ics claim their operation and structure, with voting (German Cup) a boardroom power struggle, saw the beginning of memberships restricted to 17 members – many of for the first time the end for the club, which subsequently suffered them linked to Red Bull in one way or another – is back-to-back relegations and was placed in receiv- an affront to that tradition. ership before folding in late 2016. But separating football’s church and state Red Bull’s attempts to further its sporting has become an increasingly difficult challenge June reach have been defeated. West Ham United alleg- for purists, with corporation-based hierarchies 2012 edly turned down a bid worth $837.5 million from becoming increasingly popular. Bayer Leverkusen Appoint Ralf Rangnick Red Bull in 2015 – a claim the company has stren- are run by the pharmaceutical company of the as sporting director uously denied. Earlier this year it was revealed same name. Wolfsburg, which only held onto their the company were looking at taking over a team place in next season’s Bundesliga through a rele- in the Dutch first division, a proposal that would gation play-off, are owned by car manufacturing fall afoul of legislation from the KNVB, the Dutch giant Volkswagen. Hoffenheim, Rangnick’s for- June 47 football association, due to its current involvement mer club, were elevated from a village team into 2013 with two fellow UEFA member clubs. a Bundesliga tour de force thanks to the invest- That potential conflict of interest also threat- ment from Dietmar Hopp, the billionaire founder Win promotion ens to cast a shadow over Leipzig’s record-break- of multinational software company SAP. Many, from Regionalliga ing points tally as a newly promoted Bundesliga including, Hannover 96’s majority sharehold- Nordost club, with European football’s governing body’s er Martin Kind, would like to see an end

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to the ‘50+1’ setup altogether. Yet most German Dortmund that we can attack,” just 22 days after football fans believe the 50+1 system keeps the he had described them as “a dangerous opponent.” country’s football leagues from spiralling into the Days before his side won a nine-goal thriller at the May profit-dominated circus the Premier League has Red Bull Arena, he claimed that the club’s high- become, where wages – and ticket prices – have intensity approach would not see them pose a genu- 2014 spiralled out of control. ine threat to the Bavarians, who finished 10 points Promoted to It’s due in part to that culture that RBL’s rep- clear of them in this season’s title race. Karl-Heinz 2. Bundesliga utation is as bad as any club in the Bundesliga. Rummenigge, Bayern’s chairman, initially said that Fans of rival clubs regularly stage protests – some RBL’s emergence was “good for the Bundesliga” more innovative than others – when- but derided their planned title assault, September ever they face them. Many fans tend Leipzig’s insisting he would never see it happen 2015 to boycott the matches or stand in in his lifetime. total silence, but pockets of ugliness owner Bayern’s head coach Carlo Support refugees regularly surface. Distasteful ban- wants them Ancelotti was more diplomatic, hail- during German ners, severed bull’s heads and even ing Leipzig as “a fantastic rival” as migrant crisis acts of violence towards players and to win the his side strode to their 27th domes- fans alike have greeted them during German tic triumph. The Italian clearly saw their ascent through the country’s ingredients in his closest challeng- May league by football pyramid. the summer ers which had been lacking during 2016 Criticisms from their contempo- his own spells at Chelsea and PSG. raries have been particularly telling, of 2024 Money, he said, was not the sole driv- Promoted to the not least from the country’s former ing force in Leipzig’s rise and that this Bundesliga just seven footballing duopoly. Dortmund’s dis- was “just the start of a great era for years after forming like for the club that usurped them in them.” Beckenbauer, Bayern’s honor- the Bundesliga after just one season has been regu- ary president, forecast in 2015 that Leipzig were 35 larly articulated by its CEO Hans-Joachim Watzke, years away from posing a genuine threat to Bayern’s May who dismissed Leipzig as existing purely “to push mantle, while also hailing their – and Wolfsburg’s – 2017 up the revenues for Red Bull and nothing else.” business ethos as “models with a future.” Bayern have been far more vociferous, if at times Mateschitz is far more impatient than that, Qualify for Champions contradictory. Watzke’s counterpart Uli Hoeness declaring that he wants to see RBL celebrating their League as Bundesliga paid the greatest possible compliment to RBL at maiden Bundesliga title before his 80th birthday. runner-up his club’s AGM last November, while they were With the Austrian billionaire turning 73 in May, coasting to a 4-1 win at Freiburg, telling his own that has set a countdown clock for summer 2024 shareholders that there was “a new enemy besides for the club to realise his bold ambition.

Schalke fans protest against RB Leipzig during their match

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GENERATION GIVE

GENERATION GIVE Lauren Razavi explores the changing world of philanthropy

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ast year brought tremendous change for the country of Myanmar. The people came together to cast their first meaningful political votes in more than 50 years. The subsequent election of Htin Kyaw in March of 2016 Lheralded the arrival of the first democratically cho- sen government after decades of brutal military junta rule. Yet amongst that profound change in identity, there was also stability. For the third year in succession, Myanmar was crowned by the CAF World Giving Index as the most generous country in the world. For thousands of years innovators, artists and the downtrodden have relied on the patronage of supportive benefactors. From Ancient Rome to modern day New York, the tradition of philanthropy has endured. But just as the forums of the Eternal City gave way to the glitz of Times Square, the world of humanitarianism has transformed and continues to evolve today. Throughout the ages mankind has always mar- velled at displays of wealth. True to type, it’s usually bank-breaking mega-donations that make the head- lines. Like Australian iron magnate Andrew Forrest and his wife Nicola, who hit the news when they wrote a $400 million cheque to combat cancer and an array of social challenges. Or Nike founder Phil Knight and the waves he caused with his decision to give $500 million to the University of Oregon to help fund a new scientific research centre. Similarly, plenty of publicity is duly afforded to the incredible work of serial philanthropists such as George Soros. The Hungarian hedge fund mogul’s accumulated support totals over $12 billion and spans back 38 years. He has championed diverse causes ranging from scholarships for black South Africans during the darkest days of apartheid rule to backing the US’ medical marijuana movement. But the pockets of the super-wealthy aren’t deep enough to solve all the world’s problems. The global face of philanthropy is influenced by much smaller acts of kindness too. Individually, they normally fly well below the radar but cumulatively, the impacts can be enormous. Across the UK, for example, the aggregated proceeds generated from bake sales were reported to have contributed some 52 Australian iron magnate $238 million to charitable causes in 2015. Andrew Forrest (above) At a broader level, philanthropy doesn’t exist donated $400 million in a vacuum. Government policy holds substan- towards cancer research and tial sway over the trends of giving, and the tremors other social issues. Myanmar (right) is the most generous are particularly noticeable when power shifts. In country in the world when it the US, the election of Donald Trump prompted a comes to donating

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From Ancient Rome to modern day New York, the act of philanthropy has endured, albeit in different ways

dramatic increase in support for non-profit causes that were perceived to be threatened by his presi- dency. The American Civil Liberties Union alone claims to have received over $7 million in the first five days following the vote. It would be naive, of course, to expect a banker from Bolivia and a scientist from Singapore to have identical priorities. There can be stark differences in what philanthropy looks like from one country to the next. It’s true that all forms of generosity are aligned by a unifying theme of kindness, but the manner in which this kindness comes out is sensi- tive to societal heritages and cultural expectations. A recent report compiled by Harvard’s Ash Center revealed that the 100 most influential philanthropists in China overwhelmingly consider state education to be the most important cause to donate to. By contrast the mounting environmental disaster besieging China’s metropolises was largely passed over, as environmental projects garnered only $4.7 million of the cumulative $3.8 billion that was given. Meanwhile, the Middle East’s philanthropic profile has historically been characterised by religious giving, following the tenets of Islam. Zakat, one of the five fundamental pillars of the religion, obligates Muslims whose wealth exceeds a value during the course of one lunar year – the specific figure causes some debate amongst scholars – to surrender 2.5 per cent to community welfare 53 initiatives. But as with countless other cultural dis- tinctions, globalisation has begun to permeate the field of philanthropy, shifting attitudes and dis- placing conventions. Credit: Justin Vidamo “[Traditionally] philanthropists in the US are comfortable being open about their philan-

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“Writing a cheque doesn’t give you any pleasure, but a long-term relationship absolutely does”

thropy, while philanthropists in other regions, especially the Middle East and Asia, are more private about their giving.” explains Ava Lala, director of international philanthropic consultan- cy Geneva Global. “However, we’re starting to see that change. In 2015, HRH Al Waleed Bin Talal of Saudi Arabia announced he was giving $32 billion of his personal fortune to charity. It was a signal that philanthropy in the Middle East is becoming more public and more strategic.” As far as Europe goes, the United Kingdom sits atop the generosity rankings, with a notable lean- ing towards supporting the labours of its creatives. Besides higher education and international aid, the arts and culture sector consistently receives the lion’s share of philanthropic support in the United Kingdom. Last year alone, 37 individual gifts of in debt, and that is what makes me improve each over one million pounds were made to the field. day to return that favour to the audiences.” However, many of these mammoth monetary jolts Jabares-Pita initially arrived in London to are cases of estates being posthumously bequeathed embark on her studies at The Royal Central School to large institutions. In reality, awarding mid-sized of Speech and Drama, finding a leaflet for the prize prizes to brilliant young talents is the traditional outside the studio on her first day. What followed beating heart of cultural patronage in Britain. was two years of demanding work to assemble her Ana Inés Jabares-Pita was the winner of one application and prepare it for submission. such award in 2013, when her vision earned her From hundreds of prospective candidates, the $10,300 jackpot of the biennial Linbury Prize Jabares-Pita was selected as the winner after a for Stage-Design. There’s no doubt at all that the gauntlet of interviews and pitches. Her profile in windfall was a powerful catalyst to kickstart Jabares- the stage-design community has been boosted Pita’s young career. Even so, the funds were only a considerably due to the combination of accolades, modest part of the overall award for her. networking opportunities and media exposure “While that money lasts you can feel relaxed afforded to her by winning the Linbury Prize. 54 and free to create, to design,” she says. “Although Jabares-Pita’s story is compelling evidence for the in the long term, what has been most important potential of philanthropy to add to far more than from the experience is that I have been able to just bank balances. learn from some of the best people in the industry. The role of a philanthropist can be even more The honour and prestige of winning the Linbury personal, depending on how close one wants to Prize has opened a lot of doors to me. Now I feel be to the core of their beneficiary’s project. The

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HRH Al Waleed Bin Talal of Saudi Arabia, who announced in 2015 that he was giving $32 billion of willing to blindly throw their cash out to the breeze. his wealth away As the value of gifts increases, there is greater pressure on deciding exactly what is worth supporting. Time is a premium commodity to most these days as the distinction between work and life continues to be eroded. That’s where professional philanthropy matchmakers come in. “In some senses we are like treasure hunt- ers, seeking out those really special projects that you wouldn’t find by simply looking online,” says Sita Schutt, founder of Prospero World, a UK reg- istered charity that identifies social causes and connects them with donors keen to make a difference. “A good philanthropist is careful and cares more seriously about the world than just writing cheques. How the money is invested should be part of the philanthropic journey, otherwise the philanthropy is stripped of its worth.” It’s a model of browsing not too dissimilar to online dating. There are billions of people that you’ll never meet in life. Equally there are thousands of causes that would remain forever invisible without a service to make the introductions. Of course, very little in this world is ever totally altruistic. Sure, it’s better to give than to receive, but why settle for one if you can have both? Whether the main motivating factor or not, there are an assortment of appealing perks that come as a byproduct of flexing your philanthropic muscles. Financially, there are a myriad of meth- ods for philanthropists themselves to gain from their activities. Many countries, particularly in human connection intrinsic to giving is paramount Europe and North America, offer tax relief on for sponsors who forge strong relationships with charitable giving for certain income brackets. their donees. There are some sectors which foster Donor-advised funds (DAFs) are philanthropic greater bonds than others and the passion of the vehicles that allow donors to easily obtain such arts exemplifies this tendency in its purest form. breaks and account for three per cent of all chari- The prospective reward of cultivating and main- table proceeds in the US, where the system was taining a strong link with patrons is difficult to conceived in the 1930s. overstate for artists. Philanthropists enjoy success Sometimes known as charity savings accounts, and the chance to see the project they have nur- DAFs accept non-returnable deposits that imme- tured flourish first hand holds its own sort of value. diately qualify the contributor for any relevant “I think relationships are everything. That’s tax offsets, where the reward for cash-based phi- what’s satisfying as a donor,” explains Michael lanthropy can entitle you to a deduction of up to Oglesby, founder of the Bruntwood Prize, Europe’s 50 per cent of adjusted gross income. Much like largest playwriting competition which has enabled a bank, that money is held in trust until you are the production of eight plays since its inception. approached with a cause that takes your fancy. 55 “Writing a cheque doesn’t give you any pleasure, Once the right one comes along, you can pull the but a long-term relationship absolutely does.” trigger and authorise a donation. For many, the time to grow such a relationship Philanthropic giving is a near surefire way to simply doesn’t exist. Almost invariably those with boost public profile and, by extension, that of any the wealth to spread around suffer from time pov- businesses and projects you’re associated with. erty, but that doesn’t necessarily mean they are The Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation has

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raised $44.3 billion over 14 years. It’s an astound- ing number that obviously casts the couple in a resoundingly favourable light. Even so, the impact of the financials pales in comparison to the buzz prompted in 2015 when Bill Gates visited one of the causes that the foundation funds and personally tested a machine that turns sewage slurry into pure drinking water. With potentially big implications for water scarcity in the developing world, the news spread quickly online and the Gates’ saw their public approval signifi- cantly boosted by their philanthropic engagement. Philanthropists are accustomed to eliciting strong reactions from masses when they exert their influence to such effect. But increasingly the masses are finding ways to cause ripples of their own. Crowdfunding sites raised a global total of $804 million last year, with the average individual pledge amounting to 94. This trend towards raising money $ Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg has said he relies on securing a high volume of low value gifts in will donate 99 per cent of his Facebook shares to order to meet objectives. In the UK, crowdsourcing charity over the course of his lifetime in 2015 represented just 0.5 per cent of giving, but that figure is quickly climbing. Crowdfunding pre- sents a potentially rich vein of untapped resources for seekers of philanthropic backing. As the generations march relentlessly on, so to “My view is that any new vehicles that encour- do their ambitions and inspirations. More than age philanthropy, on a small or large scale, are ever, people are getting into philanthropy much beneficial,” says Melanie Cassoff, managing direc- earlier in their lives. What was once primarily the tor of the UK-based Freelands Foundation who domain of the monied retiree has been disrupted by provide capital and support for the arts. “Just as upstarts such as Facebook’s Mark Zuckerberg who philanthropy in Victorian times was very different in 2015 announced he will donate 99 per cent of from today, it is natural that the model will evolve, his Facebook shares over the course of his lifetime. and crowdfunding will help to keep philanthropy “There is a new crop of millennial and tech relevant and accessible to many in the digital age.” wealth that is shifting how philanthropy is done,” As you might expect, an undercurrent of tension observes Lala. “They are much more hands-on, does flavour the rise of online crowdfunding. As an “It’s natural metrics-driven, and globally-aware than their entity it’s still relatively new, and has only been sub- older counterparts.” stantially popularised over the last ten years with the that the For a group that has grown up alongside recy- arrival of websites like Kickstarter and IndieGoGo. philanthropy cling and fair trade, philanthropy has been stitched Subsequently, these platforms have had to deal with model will into the very identity of a generation; the first their fair share of fraudulent accounts. be able to transcend borders at a thumb-swipe. Despite an increasing level of sophistication in evolve in this Charity has always been a collective trait that the the policing of crowdfunding, charity ‘scampaigns’ digital age” human race can be proud of. Now, it’s veering continue to slip through the cracks. Predominantly from universal to uniform. these are in the guise of appeals to cover medi- Philanthropy defies definition. The word itself cal bills, often appropriating the pictures and comes from the ancient Greek words simply plights of genuine patients. Whether crowdfunding for an act of ‘loving mankind,’ and despite all of matures into a truly viable option for philanthrop- the numerous varieties of giving that exist in the ic funding in the future hinges on the introduction world, they are all rooted in this core concept. of effective regulation. That same study that pinpointed Myanmar as 56 Regardless, it’s unlikely that crowdfunding will humanity’s leading light for generosity also com- ever fully replace more orthodox brands of giv- mends Iraq and Libya for being the two places ing because, once again, it’s not all about the cash. where a stranger is most likely to offer a hand in Unless an option is available that integrates both times of crisis. The face of philanthropy continues personalities and purse strings, E-philanthropy to change and so do we. The unshakeable human will remain limited. desire to help? That never really does.

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THE SWEETEST THING David Whelan explores the world 58 of luxury chocolate and discovers an industry that’s booming

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hocolate is the great equalis- Rumours spread of the new food – with the er – you can pick up a tasty, silky wildest suggesting it was an aphrodisiac or a hang- chocolate bar for under a dol- over cure. Others claimed it cured disease and lar wherever you are in the world, prolonged life. Hot chocolate fast became the and often even cheaper. And symbol of elite living. White’s, for example, still yet, sometimes a Mars Bar or a exists. Perhaps you are a member. But chocolate’s CHershey’s just won’t do. However, every so often history runs a little deeper than just through the – be it a special occasion, a business event or just guts and veins of the historical aristocrat. Back in to treat yourself – the quotidian over-the-counter the cocoa bean’s natural habitat – Mesoamerica sweet just cannot, or will not, cut it. Enter the lux- – chocolate, as a drink or ingredient, served as a ury chocolate: the sort of cocoa that goes for multi- special item in Mayan and Aztec rituals. Cocoa ple hundreds of dollars for a single bar, or into the beans were presented by priests as offerings to the thousands for a tray of truffles. These chocolates gods, while hot chocolate was served as a bever- are no laughing matter, but the centre of an entire age during holy ceremonies – the only drink that historiography all to themselves – beginning in the could bring a human closer to the supernatural. decadence of 18th century Europe and living on, Each area subsequently conquered by the Aztecs today, through some of the most exclusive food art- were handed cocoa to grow – but then ordered to ists alive. Here, for your delectation, we cover a few return their produce as a tribute. of our favourites. Nowadays, the cocoa bean is primarily grown Imagine the scene: you are standing outside in western Africa – with the Cote d’Ivoire being St James’s Palace in London and a man, intoxi- the efficient piston of productivity. “The large cated and deliriously joyous, drops dead. Rushing manufacturers suppress the price but don’t share over to help him, you discover that his mouth is it out. Chocolate labour is hugely intensive. covered in what appears to be melted chocolate Harvesting cocoa is similar to vanilla or saffron,” – looking up, and casting your eyes across the gar- explains Jennifer Earle, a chocolate specialist. dens, you spot White’s Chocolate House. Now “Often, the prices don’t reflect that. The small- you understand. The man is not dead, but, rather, er the maker, the more certain you can be that has collapsed from ecstasy – the year is 1740 and they will be paying their workers fairly.” These chocolate is the newest, and very best, drug. This cocoa beans are grown to different qualities, with is unsurprising. Since the moment cocoa beans the cocoa beans you find in a standard Cadbury were shipped to Europe in 1585 from the New bar being one that has been harvested, ferment- World, chocolate became the height of luxury, the ed, dried and sorted all on farm. The beans we’re shiniest badge of decadence. Traditionally served interested in, however – the ones that, through in liquid form – the still beloved hot chocolate – immense culinary wizardry, become the life-force historians believe it was popularised throughout of our favourite chocolates – are often processed the country by a Frenchman who squirrelled away by the chocolatiers themselves, at much small- a small chocolatier in Bishopsgate Street, right in er quantities in order to ensure the quality would 60 the hub of the business district. be fit for a king or queen, while ensuring that

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the farmers get a much higher cut of the profits. “There are a lot more people making chocolate from the bean,” says Earle. “While the equipment used to be very expensive, now it’s far more affordable and smaller. People who grow cocoa can now make chocolate. This is unprecedented and suggests the rise of luxury, artisanal chocolate.” This is why it’s worth the money – even if they get to eye-watering levels. No other chocolate in the world will taste quite like these – these really melt in your mouth. “There’s been an explosion of beans,” says Earle. “Chocolate is far more com- plex flavour than wine or coffee.”

The crème brûlée truffle – Kee’s Chocolates Set up by Wall Street escapee Kee Ling Tong in 2002, the small chocolate shop in Midtown now has three branches across Manhattan. Specialising in truffles and macarons, Kee keeps to the strict guidelines that any chocolate bought must be consumed within a week. A true mark of quality, according to Earle. “The shorter the time the maker allows you to wait, the better the chocolate will be.”

“We don’t advertise. Everything is by recommendation. We get a lot of repeat customers”

“Everything is handmade,” Kee informs us. “It is truly artisanal. We literally have no machines. I’m in my shop in Midtown, seven days a week, fles must be consumed almost immediately. making chocolate.” With more than 48 flavours on “Chocolate is so absorbent,” explains Earle, “and constant rotation, from yuzu to balsamic vinegar, porous – it takes on new flavours and releases its Kee’s store has become a word of mouth sensa- own. This is especially true of truffles.” So, if Kee’s tion. “We don’t advertise,” says Kee. “Everything vast array of delights sounds appealing, make sure is by recommendation. And we get a lot of repeat you don’t hold on to them for too long. “Made customers. I tend to know what they want before fresh to be eaten fresh,” says Kee – and, despite they even speak.” the hard work that goes into each single truffle, Kee’s most popular item is the crème brûlée they are priced supremely competitively, roughly truffle, which has got most regulars “super excit- only $3 per truffle. Sometimes luxury doesn’t need ed”. “We are the only place in the city that makes to be a synonym for expense. them with fresh custard,” Kee says, “and we layer Kee’s Chocolates have three branches in New it within beautiful, rich chocolate.” But, Kee is York: in Soho, Midtown and Midtown West. Kee 61 sure to point out, due to its freshness the truf- works in the Midtown West shop seven days a week.

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The Wispa Gold – Cadbury’s over a big wood pot,” says Toth, sounding deliri- There is every chance your eyebrows rose at this ously happy just imagining it. “The care that one, considering that Cadbury’s Wispa Gold goes into the beans, the extravagance of the pack- can be bought for a mere 55p in the United aging… we try to bring in the forest as much as Kingdom. But the one we’re interested in is the possible.” Each chocolate bar comes in a Spanish special £961.48 kind – that thankfully went back Elmwood box – the same box they were made in into production in 2009 after a sustained online – and contains a single roasted cocoa bean in the campaign by fans. Cadbury, ever the genius mar- middle. “Like burgundy to the wine world,” Toth keter, made only one. Priced at the bar’s exact says. “That’s what our chocolate is. What this weight in gold and covered in edible gold leaf, place is to the cocoa bean.” it is, according to Ross Farquhar, Wispa’s brand This year, Ko’ak has released two new flag- manager, “the most expensive bar of chocolate to ship bars – the Vintage 2014, which retails from go on sale ever”. While originally made in 1995, $315 to $365 for a single bar. “These are the the original Wispa disappeared from shelves world’s first ever bars to be aged for this dura- for a few years, until it was resurrected in sup- tion,” Toth explains. “Drawing from the science port of the UK Lowe Syndrome Trust, alongside behind ageing both wine and whisky, we’ve this one-of-a-kind bar – intended to be sold at applied these principles to ageing chocolate. Selfridges. It was, however, never bought. Dark chocolate (like wine) is rich with tan- Nowadays – 2017 – the bar sits in a special case nins and other polyphenols. These compounds, in Cadbury World, Cadbury’s own museum to its also called flavonoids, largely determine what chocolate, awaiting the highest bidder for the most we taste in a dark chocolate and how it feels exclusive bar in the world. in our mouth. Over time, these compounds are chemically altered through processes such as 2014 Vintage Edition, The Three oxidation. Ageing dark chocolate can decrease Year Aged Bars – To’ak Chocolate astringency, which produces a more rounded “I’m standing in the Ecuadorian forest, right flavour profile and reveals subtle flavour notes now,” says To’Ak Chocolate co-founder Jerry that had previously been overshadowed.” Toth. “We started a forest preserve here 11 years “Ageing our chocolate in different types of ago, and we happened to find abandoned groves wood vessels also plays an interesting role. Just of cocoa in the forest. I didn’t even know what the as oak barrels account for 70 per cent of the fla- trees were. But, over time, it’s become all I can vour of whisky, the extractable compounds in the think about.” To’ak Chocolate – based out of a wood/barrels we use also influence the flavour house with no electricity on the western coast of profile of our chocolate – often in very unique, Ecuador – was set up a decade ago by Toth, Carl pleasing ways. We’ve just released two of our Schweizer and local Ecuadorian cocoa grower finest creations – one has been aged in Andean Servio Pachard. Strictly adhering to the tradition- Alder wood, and the other edition was aged in al Ecuadorian method of chocolate making, these a 50-year-old French oak cognac cask.” To the bars are produced, packaged and eaten in ways intrepid traveller, Ko’ak also offers the opportu- that goes, according to Toth, “far and beyond what nity to make chocolate. “Anyone who comes and anyone else has experienced”. works with us has to make chocolate – it’s a right They grow their own beans. Produce and fer- of passage,” says Toth. “It’s religious experience.” ment them. Package them. All by hand, with no Ko’ak Chocolate is available online from their 62 electricity. “We roast the beans over an open fire store and in select boutique shops around the world.

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THE SWEETEST THING

Fruition Chocolate – 3091 Route 28, Shokan, New York Akesson – 15B Blenheim Crescent, London Marou – 167-169 Calmette, Ho Chi Minh La Madeline au Truffle – Chocolat Madagascar – Lot I V G 203, Antananarivo Knipschildt Chocolatiers If a single bar is not exactly setting your taste buds ablaze, then we recommend trying these truffles. Coming in at only 1.5oz a truffle, these ganache and French Perigord infused dark chocolate delights sell at $250 a piece. Part of an exclusive Valentine’s Day partnership with the sporty NYY Steak, these truffles are delivered by body-guard and locked within a safe deep beneath the restaurant. According to master chocolatier Fritz Knipschildt, these truffles are made “with a decadent 70 per cent Valrhona dark chocolate, heavy sugar, truffle oil and vanilla” before he drapes the gooey chocolate over the French Perigord, a rare mushroom found deep in the forest of the Perigord region. Usually, these subterranean in Paris. He has since gone on to train a huge ros- diamonds go, alone, for $70 an oz. Combining the ter of the most famous chocolatiers in the world, most kingly of all foods – the Earth’s truffle and the including Gilles Marchal and Geoffrey d’Anglejan. chocolatier’s truffle – these small, velvety treats take The star of the show is simply the Coro Hatbox you on a journey through the rarest of tastes – both – a full-sized hatbox filled with 4.60lbs of rich, intoxicatingly sweet and subtly bitter. Due to the impossibly delicious chocolates. The Coro is not initial success of the original run, these lovebird truf- limited to one type, either, but buyers can take fles are made once a year, and can be pre-ordered their pick from such delights as the boîte maisons, by anyone at any point in the year directly from tamanacos, alcohol truffles, a Craquant Gift Box, Knipschild. Due to the nature of the process, they a Twigs Collection Gift Box and a Covered Fruits must be ordered at least two weeks in advance and Gift Box. The price of the whole package is $620, consumed within seven days – which seems perfect which, for the quality, variety and sheer amount, is for that special occasion. a bargain for any discerning chocoholic. Fritz Knipschild, who moved to the United The Coro Hatbox is available online from La States from Denmark in 1996, founded his Maison du Chocolat. eponymous Chocolatier in 1999, which has since expanded to include the Chocopologie Best of the Rest café in Norwalk, Connecticut. Other chocolates “Some of my favourite – from tree to bar makers – from Knipschildt can be ordered all year round, come from Madagascar, Nicaragua and Vietnam,” and do not dip in their quality – but none com- says Earle. “There’s a real growing appreciation that mand the lustre and show-stopping appeal of La ‘chocolate’ doesn’t have to taste ‘like chocolate’. Madeline au Truffle. There are so many flavours out there.” Earle is keen La Madeline au Truffle can be ordered online to suggest her favourites: Fruition, in upstate New from Knipschildt Chocolatiers. York, for their “interesting experiments”; Akesson, who has made plain chocolate “the most amazing Coro Hatbox – La Maison du Chocolat experience” from his chocolatier in Notting Hill, La Maison du Chocolat is considered to be the London; Marou, in Vietnam, who are the epito- prime maker and seller of luxury chocolate in me of the sustainable, social-conscious maker; and, America, and throughout the world. Founded on Chocolat Madagascar, which is, according to Earle, principles of taste and decadence, coupled with a “always extraordinary”. desire to make fantastic chocolate more accessible, But, there’s no reason to stop here – “everything the brand comes with a seal of quality. The found- is up to personal taste,” says Earle. “For me, I like a er – Robert Linxe – was born in France in 1929, fruitier bean. But there are more amazing, luxurious and trained at the prestigious C.O.B.A. school in chocolates out there than ever before – I recommend 64 Switzerland, before founding the original branch trying everything.”

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CMY

K FLOWER POWER Jamie Fullerton explores the global flower industry, worth more than $100 billion a year, and showing no signs of slowing down

his month, in the elegantly imposing surround- ings of Hampton Court Palace on the outskirts of London, a heaven for flower lovers and a hell for hay-fever sufferers will be declared open. The Hampton Court Palace Flower Show, run by the Royal Horticultural Society, is the biggest flower Tshow in the world and will see the palace grounds taken over by show gardens as the eye of the global floral industry falls on them. For six days starting on July 4th, the show will be the focus of a global industry that quietly continues to turn heads like daffo- dils tipping towards the sun. Due to the wide variety of product styles that come under the ‘floral’ bracket – from garden plants to cut flowers to shrubs and foliage – and the globe-crossing trade networks built around them, reliable industry statistics are hard to come by. However, analysts are generally in agreement that it is an industry on the up.

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Rabobank, a Dutch multinational banking and financial services company, says the industry is currently “flourishing” and estimates it to be worth $100 billion. The emergence of new exporters to the industry and mainstream adoption of floral products in supermarkets has helped share fields of the Netherlands is a likely one to pop up this view. And while it is a notoriously difficult (although in reality commercial-level greenhouses industry to make predictions about, the general are more likely to be involved). Indeed, the coun- feeling among industry figures is that the long his- try is the biggest exporter of cut flowers, exporting tory of all things floral is in a sunny period. $3.5 billion-worth of cut flowers in 2016. Long before the age of online ordering and According to Rabobank’s World Floriculture same day home flower delivery, the seeds of the Map 2016, it provided 43 per cent of the world’s floral industry were planted by the great ancient civ- imported supply. But it’s nearer the equator where ilisations. The Egyptians are believed to have been things are gaining heat fastest, with regards to experimenting with flower arrangements for table increasing export share. decoration and rituals as early as 2,500 BCE, as were Colombia, Ecuador and Kenya are the next the ancient Greeks and Romans. four biggest cut flower exporters, exporting $1.3 Much later, in the 17th Century, flower arrang- billion, $803 million and $675 million-worth of ing was popularised in Europe largely due to cut flowers in 2016. In 2015 Colombia and Kenya French influence, with this European influence in had a 15 and 11 per cent share of the export mar- turn filtering through to America in the latter half ket respectively, with Ecuador on nine per cent. of the century. Purple, magenta and blue flowers Ethiopia too has been rising fast in the sector, were on trend Stateside, while for periods of the exporting $225 million-worth last year. Georgian era in the UK, smell came to be con- These market percentages were up when com- sidered more important than beauty, and the rose pared to the 2005 data, with the African countries became the big hitter it still is today. showing the fastest growth over the 10-year period. The flounce and pomp of the British upper Ethiopia has emerged as a completely new exporter crust in the Victorian age, during which the British in the last decade, while Kenya has more than dou- Empire straddled much of the globe, led to lav- bled its cut flower output. The emergence of these ish floral trends and flower arranging developing nations as powerful exporters was identified by as a skill. According to Caroline Marshall-Foster, Rabobank as the industry’s most striking trend. owner editor of UK industry magazine The Florist Low staff costs and favourable growing condi- and creator of The Good Florist Guide book, tions have helped the African countries carve their Britain’s first florist shop opened 110 years ago. names into the exporter list. “They can grow at Then, after the Second World War, things high altitudes, which improves the flowers,” says started to move into what would become the com- Cindy van Rijswick, author of Rabobank’s flow- mercial floral industry today, as sellers looked er industry report. “Cheap production in Africa beyond their literal back gardens for products. – usually helmed by foreign firms setting up busi- “There was great excitement in 1953 when we nesses within the countries – has also stimulated [The Florist magazine] published a list of overseas consumption, especially in the big supermarkets. supplies people could buy,” says Marshall-Foster. It made them able to supply affordable flowers – “Most of it was from the south of France; up until that’s a change that’s been going on over the last then it was all just bog standard stuff that could be couple of decades.” grown in the UK.” There does tend to be a com- The number of standalone flo- promise on quality, though, when rists in the UK rose to a peak of importing African cut flowers around 8,000, with the industry ahead of those from, say, Colombia enjoying what Marshall-Foster calls “China has or the Netherlands. “Kenya will a “halcyon period” in the 1980s. ten times the never be as good as the Dutch – or Now, the global floral industry is Colombian,” says Marshall-Foster. 68 worth around $100 billion, bolstered population “Yes, Kenyan flowers are growing by emerging exporters such as of Japan. high up [with regard to altitude, Kenya and Ethiopia, and emerging The potential which is good for flower-grow- markets such as India and China. ing], but a rose grown in Holland Think of flowers, and the image to grow will be number one, then probably of tulips gently swaying on the flat is huge” Ecuador, then Colombia.

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Five most popular flowers in the world

1. Rose

2. Carnation

3. Tulip

4. Daisy

5. Sunflower

Tulip fields blossom near Magdeburg 69

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Left: a tulip auction in The Netherlands in the 1970s and above, a worker picks flowers at a Colombian plantation

“Holland doesn’t have altitude, but it does sumers for all kinds of products, many floral sales have state of the art greenhouses. Kenya is start- points in the US and UK have been making a ing to grow up in the hills, but actually, they can point of offering flowers grown locally, with no air never get the same altitudes that Colombia and miles. “Consumers are now willing to pay higher Ecuador have.” prices for flowers when they’re produced in a sus- Van Rijswick says that although the African tainable, often local way,” says van Rijswick. exporters’ rise has been impressive, she doesn’t Marshall-Foster says that the trend has lim- expect their growth to continue to the point where its, though, and won’t impinge on import figures they’re toppling Colombia or the Netherlands at much long-term. “This ‘British flower move- the sharp end of the exporting league. “It’s been ment’ or, as they call it in the States, ‘slow growing for many years but I do think that it’ll grow’, is important – but the reality is that there slow down a bit soon,” she says. “The grower mar- will never be enough locally produced product 70 ket is quite mature. There has also been a sort of to sustain the industry,” she says. “The quality is ‘counter-trend’ going on, with people looking at often not as good as those that are commercial- new ways to grow locally.” ly grown. The production techniques used in big This ‘grow local’ trend is small but increas- commercial greenhouses cannot, will not, and ingly significant. With sustainability and probably should not be replicated in a ‘home eco-friendliness an ever-growing priority for con- grown’ environment.”

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That was one of the factors that led to the founding two years ago of Prime Flowers, a Colombian flower exporting firm owned by Colombia’s Unique Collection and Perfect Quality The US, Japan and Western Europe are current- Roses flower producing firms. “The China import ly the biggest markets for floral consumption, but figures are still pretty small in terms of market cracking new markets has become a top priority for data,” says the company’s general manager David some of the world’s biggest flower producers. Perez, talking in the trendy central Beijing office Van Rijswick says that India and Mexico have co-sharing space he runs his company from. “In both seen rises in flower consumption recent- Japan they import around $400 million-worth of ly (demand for Indian flowers has risen too, with fresh cut flowers per year, but here in China last the country exporting around $71 million-worth year it was around $45 million. of floral products in 2013-14). But it is the pos- “However, China has ten times the population sibility of unlocking the flower-buying potential of Japan. The potential to grow is huge, and I do of China’s 1.35 billion population that really think companies such as FloraHolland are right to gets the boardrooms pumping. In October 2015, focus on here. China could one day be the biggest in a report on developing market trends for the flower consumer in the world.” German IPM Essen floral industry show, Dr They key is effective online sales. China does Marianne Altmann focussed on the possibilities of not have a strong history of standalone florist shops exploiting the Chinese market. and there is little infrastructure for She wrote that due to China’s supermarket floral sales. Instead, the increasing economic clout millions ubiquitous Chinese app WeChat, of Chinese are set to “move from which is used by practically every poverty to the middle class and person in the country with a smart- approach the West in their consum- “People are phone for anything from messaging ing behaviour. So China could – as willing to to buying products, is the focus. the largest producer and exporter pay higher Perez points to the success of in Asia, especially for the Japanese Flower Plus, a company that he says market – predominantly import prices for sells around two million flower bou- flowers, which represent exclusiv- flowers that quets in China per month, mainly ity and luxury. Imported goods are have been through subscriptions on WeChat. a status symbol for the Chinese. Online services are also instrumen- The demand from weddings, hotels grown in a tal in pushing new sales periods and restaurants could develop as a sustainable – a tactic that could arguably also lucrative niche.” way” be described as simply making up It’s a niche that many compa- shopping holidays. nies are already making inroads into. Recently flower sellers have The Dutch flower producing and exporting compa- attempted to bill May 20th as a day to give floral ny FloraHolland, the biggest floral company in the gifts to a loved one – the mandarin pronunciation world, has identified China as a top priority for its of the date, “Wu er ling”, sounds a little bit like “Wo strategy for 2020. Around 4.8 per cent of European ai ni”, which means “I love you” – if you say it fast, flower exports already go to China – Kenyan at least. Clever stuff. There’s also a Valentine’s Day exporters make use of a direct flight between in China in August that offers similar opportunities. Nairobi and Shanghai. “The ‘Wu er ling’ tie-in with flowers only started According to a Colombian study China’s total a few years ago,” says Perez. “We weren’t expecting cut flower imports grew 61 per cent from 2010 to many orders, but people bought a lot of roses.” 2014 – although with China having plentiful land As well as amping up exports to emerging space to grow its own, imports are thought to markets such as China, Mexico and Southeast account for only around five per cent of sales there. Asian countries such as Indonesia (which Perez 71 Colombia’s exporters in particular are working marked out as having a increasingly affluent mid- to increase that figure. India, another high-pop- dle class that may offer big opportunities), there ulation country identified as an emerging floral is big opportunity for growth in online floral sales consumer, taxes Colombian imports hugely, like- in many regions. ly for protectionism purposes, but in contrast Currently in most flower-buying nations online Chinese import taxes are relatively low. purchases account for roughly between five

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and 20 per cent of overall sales – a significant cut, but not the digital takeover that has been seen in many retail sectors in the past decade. Companies such as Britain’s Interflora running slick, effective online sales platforms and pure online firms such as Freddie’s Flowers have increased this market share, but it seems that many customers still like to pick up and smell their flowers and other plants before buying them. With new generations of customers flexing their credit cards, though, online sales are only set to increase – a move that is likely to have an effect on trends regarding floral styles. “Right now big, loose and blousey is hot and happening in the UK,” says Marshall-Foster. “But we have two emerging patterns: the big, lush look ‘straight from the garden’ and the single variety – buying just “I don’t think it’s a case of supermarkets getting The Victoria Park New one flower in quantity. A lot of the latter trend has bigger and pushing florists out, though,” says Means. Year Flower Market in been led by the ‘digital disruptors’ [online flower “It’s just that more customers are finding conveni- Hong Kong. China’s 1.35 billion population sellers] because it’s economical for them to flog a ence there. We certainly expect that to grow.” is key for the growth of single bunch or boxful of one variety, rather than Van Rijswick is similarly optimistic about the the flower industry to pick a collection and make a bouquet.” health of the industry, with a caveat: there is always Few analysts believe that supermarkets’ cut going to be a sense of unpredictability to an indus- of the market share will get eaten into too much try when it is so reliant on smooth import and by pure online sellers, though. According to the export routes. She sighs when she mentions Brexit American Florists’ Association (AFA) supermar- and US President Donald Trump’s increased kets currently enjoy a 36.7 per cent share of the focus on US industry protectionism. “It is a bit cut flower sales market in the US, with florists uncertain whether you can export your flowers having 35.6 per cent. to the market you want,” she says. She adds that “My prediction is that by 2020 the Russia’s relations with Europe are distribution will be retail florists with a good example of such uncertain- 25 per cent, supermarkets with 35 ty affecting the industry. Russia is per cent and e-commerce with 35 per a big importer of flowers, but some cent,” says Peter Moran, vice presi- European firms have started to tar- dent of the AFA. “The same customer “By 2020, get emerging markets such as China who picks up a bunch of flowers for flower dis- as potential replacements as export- themselves at the supermarket while tribution will ing to Russia has become so shaky. doing their grocery shopping will “We’ve seen this with Dutch flow- most likely still go to the florist when be florists ers,” says van Rijswick. “Russia was they need a special gift. Florists pro- 25 per cent, a big import market, but if there are vide the personal attention and and the rest political issues going on sometimes expertise that is hard to find today in flowers get stopped at the border. this mass-produced world.” shared be- They [customs officials] say they Kathy Means, vice president tween e- found some kind of insect in the of industry relations at Produce commerce flowers… they use these arguments Marketing Association, which in but it’s really just politics. This can 2016 released their Trends in Mass- and super- really harm the flower sector.” Market Floral industry report, adds markets” All the analysts and industry fig- that supermarkets are, if anything, ures I spoke for agreed that, border likely to get a bigger market share. rows with unfriendly Russian cus- 72 With African exporters offering them low-cost flo- toms officials notwithstanding, the global floral ral offerings and flower stalls having the added industry is still on the up. Evidence of this will be bonus of making a supermarket look and smell more on spectacular show at the Hampton Court Palace charming than a toilet cleaner aisle, many western Flower Show. If you’re heading along there, ask the supermarkets now offer sophisticated flower sales flower sellers where each of their plants come from points with staff trained in the industry. – you may get a few long, but intriguing, answers.

PF_72017.P66-72_Feature_Flowers.indd 72 6/19/17 6:12 PM Stallion Resized for Prtfolio.pdf 1 6/15/17 12:36 PM Barefoot luxury

The Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle resort takes pride of place on Sri Lanka’s delightful southern coast

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WHERE TO STAY

n recent years, Sri Lanka’s star has For a glimpse into local life, an intrepid been on the rise. Often described option is to jump on a tuk-tuk – the as the Pearl of the Indian Ocean – a ubiquitous form of transport sometimes

ANANTARA PEACE ANANTARA TANGALLE HAVEN, hidden gem abundant in natural cheekily referred to as the Sri Lankan Iriches – the teardrop-shaped island “Cultural Ferrari – and discover Tangalle’s vibrant country is finally starting to be lapped encounters street markets, where vendors sell by the waves of luxury. are easily everything from bunches of bananas to Leading the sea change is the hand-crafted hunting knives. Sri Lanka available Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort, Anantara’s ‘experience gurus’ also which opened its doors in December to those offer guided excursions to nearby 2015. Set on a 21-acre former coconut who seek attractions, like the ancient Mulkirigala PRICE plantation on the island’s southern coast, rock temple, the Udawalawe elephant From $406 them out” per night the sprawling property of 152 rooms and sanctuary, or the Handunugoda tea villas boasts unbeatable views over the estate, renowned for producing the Indian Ocean. Unfortunately, the rough elusive virgin white tea, untouched by

waters at the secluded beach directly human hands. below the resort render it unsuitable for tangalle.anantara.com swimming, but guests are able to walk along to the next bay. This is a resort with all of the  trimmings – spacious, well-equipped CMB rooms with supersized bathrooms, a 25-metre infinity pool, an inviting spa offering Ayurvedic treatments, and a choice of six stylish restaurants and 76 77 bars. The Italian fine-dining spot, Il Mare, has the best real estate, perched on a clifftop overlooking the dramatic swells below. Cultural encounters are easily available to those who seek them out.

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FROM THE CONCIERGE

Wild elephants Udawalawe National Park is home to around 500 Asian elephants, and is considered one of the best places in the world to catch a glimpse of the SEE gentle giants. Open- top safari jeeps take visitors through the 31,000-hectare nature reserve, which is also home to water buffalo, crocodiles, and even Sri Lanka’s national bird, the junglefowl.

Curry Sri Lankan curries are rich, fragrant and a staple of the local diet. Learn how to recreate the dish at EAT one of Anantara’s Spice Spoons cooking classes, which includes a guided tour of the colourful fresh food markets in the area.

Catch a wave Sri Lanka’s unspoilt From Tangalle, the charismatic of a tourist town, with a number of southern coast is colonial town of Galle on the island’s boutique guesthouses, art galleries, gift an ideal spot for beginner surfers. southwestern tip is well worth the day shops and cafes within its historic walls. DO Novices can take trip. The settlement was founded in While it may be tempting to overlook lessons with luxury 1505 by the Portuguese, who started Sri Lanka in favour of its famous Indian surfing operator building a fortress to protect the Ocean neighbour, the Maldives, this Tropicsurf, which is stationed at trading port. When the Dutch came compact island nation contains all the 76 the resort. 77 along a century later, they took on the right ingredients for a luxury getaway. job, making it bigger and stronger, Pristine shores make for an idyllic flop until the arrival of the British in the and drop holiday, while national parks, late 18th century. bustling beach towns and eight Unesco The fort remains today, and Galle is World Heritage sites provide added spice perhaps Sri Lanka’s closest semblance for more adventurous travellers.

PF_72017.P74-77_Living_Opener&Hotel.indd 77 6/19/17 6:13 PM KHALIFA PORT FREE TRADE ZONE

THE FUTURE OF TRADE IS HERE

A new Free Trade Zone is emerging. The Khalifa Port Free Trade Zone in KIZAD spans 100 square kilometres of prime industrial real estate. Representing 25% of the total land mass of KIZAD, the new Free Zone is in the heart of our integrated offering of industrial clusters at the doorstep of the technologically advanced Khalifa Port. It is the most sought after industrial address in the UAE due to its highly competitive leasing rates, dedicated customer support and world-class multi-modal transport infrastructure that provides outstanding access to local, regional and international markets through its existing sea, air, road and future rail infrastructure. Join the portfolio of investment sectors doing business in the largest industrial zone in the region, and now with access to Free Zone land, this is indeed the Future of Trade.

This is the Khalifa Port Free Trade Zone.

Part of JULY LIVING / INVESTMENT ISSUE 139 The Kelly bag A chance photograph of Grace Kelly turned what was once a saddle holder into the most iconic handbag in the world.

3 It takes 25 hours for one artisan to make a Kelly handbag

1 The padlock and keys are made of white or yellow gold

2 Four studs, made of three layers of leather, 4 are affixed to In the mid- the base of the 1990s, a Kelly bag, allowing it bag cost to stand upright $3,500. Today they can command up to $12,000

classic of its type, the Hermès Kelly bag is named after the time Grace Kelly held the bag up to shield herself from the paparazzi’s flashbulbs. The bag, first introduced in the late 1800s, was used to carry a saddle. In the 1930s, it was PB 79 redesigned as a travel bag, called sac à dépêches. The design, somewhat stiff and boxy, was in contrast to the purses of the time, which almost looked like envelopes. The bag became iconic only in the 1950s, when Alfred Hitchcock allowedA his costume designer on the film To Catch A Thief to purchase Hermès accessories. The star of the film, Grace Kelly, loved the bag so much she carried it all the time. Two years later, the pregnant star, then married to Monaco’s Prince Rainier III, was photographed by the paparazzi in that now iconic shot. The bag was renamed the Kelly bag in 1977, and despite Hermès producing 32 styles of handbags, the Kelly remains its top seller.

PF_72017.P79_Living_Investmentpiece.indd 79 6/19/17 6:14 PM LIVING / STYLE What to pack ...for summer weather in Beijing and beyond

Average temp 26°c

Chance of rain: 50%

JULY BEIJING

C C C C 27 ° 27 ° 28 ° 28 ° ALSO WEAR IN... Bali Malta Phuket Orlando

WHAT TO SEE

FORBIDDEN CITY years, which makes the entrance – One of China’s great sights, this across a 52-metre-wide moat – all spectacular palace was home to the the more intriguing. There are plenty Ming and Qing dynasties from 1420 of guides near the entrance, and we to 1912. Comprising more than 980 recommend using one; the place can 80 81 buildings and set across 180 acres, be ‘forbiddingly’ big. While modern it’s a sprawling testament to the China may be open to the world, power and history of the Chinese. this harks back to a time when the It was off limits for more than 500 kingdom was very much closed.

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Borsalino grosgrain- trimmed straw hat $345

Gucci aviator-style sunglasses $325

Valentino Backpack $1,064 3

Mulberry leather billfold wallet $252 80 81

1. Paul Smith polo shirt $318, matchesfashion.com 2. Citizens Of Humanity Davis light sage tapered cotton chinos $364, harveynichols.com 3. Massimo Alba shorts $230, mrporter.com 4. Y-3 Qasa tubular multi-strap sandal, black/white $320, neimanmarcus.com

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Average temp 21°c

Chance of rain: 10%

JULY MUNICH

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WHAT TO SEE

PINAKOTHEK DER MODERNE likes of Picasso and Warhol as well The largest modern art museum in as Da Vinci and Cezanne. One of Germany is home to four separate the highlights is the New Collection, collections: 20th century art, a which showcases everyday objects graphics collection, design and an from years gone by including Apple 82 83 architecture museum. The building Macs, Eames chairs and VW Beetles. itself is spectacular, four storeys A place to lose yourself among centred on a large, light-filled some of the art and design greats of atrium. Expect to see work from the the past century.

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Let them eat cake James Brennan meets the man behind the cronut, and explores the world of the pastry chef

ecessity, so they say, is the mother of invention. Pneumatic tyres, X-ray, plastic – they all fulfil specific Nneeds. Prior to 2013, though, there was no pressing requirement for a deep-fried confection of croissant dough shaped like a doughnut, filled with cream, rolled in sugar and finished off with a glazed topping. But then French-born pastry chef Dominique Ansel invented the cronut and all that changed. Within three days of its creation, , USA more than a hundred people queued up outside Dominique Ansel’s New York Dominique Ansel bakery to buy the cronut. The $5 pastries began selling on the black market for up to $100. Then Time magazine heralded “I actually started off in the kitchen the cronut as one of the best inventions at the age of 16 training as a savoury of 2013. And all because of one pastry chef, before moving over to the pastry chef’s desire to create something new. side of things,” explains Ansel. “I like all Something people didn’t know they types of cuisines, not just desserts, and I didn’t need, but wanted anyway. love cooking savoury food so we’re really The impact of the cronut has spread looking forward to LA. far and wide. Ansel opened bakeries in “What’s interesting is that with a

Tokyo and, most recently, in London. NEW YORK bakery the interaction you have with But now the pioneering James Beard guests is quite quick as many guests take Award-winning chef is about to change their items to go or stop in for a short the game again. His first full-service  period of time, as opposed to a restaurant restaurant ‘189 by Dominique Ansel’ will where guests are seated for an hour or JFK open in Los Angeles this autumn. The two. So with a restaurant, it’ll be a way for launch is hotly anticipated, not least by us to not only get really creative on the 84 85 those curious to know if a pastry chef whole menu, the design, the feel of the can cut it in the sometimes-unsavoury place, but also a way to control more of world of savoury restaurants. Indeed, the customer experience.” why is one of the world’s most successful In recent years the Bake Off pastry chefs putting his reputation on the phenomenon has popularised the sweet line by going full service? science of the patissier. It is one

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“A great pastry chef understands that their work is both a science and an art, where precision is as important as creativity”

of the most skilled, precise and creative pastry chefs? Is there a special kind of roles in any kitchen. High practitioners desire and aspiration, perhaps, which of the art such as Jordi Roca of El drives them on? Are pastry chefs a breed Cellar De Can Roca in Spain, or apart, cut from a different cookie-dough Salvatore Martone at Joel Robuchon, to other chefs? are known for their wild inventions. But “I don’t like to pigeonhole a pastry still, surprisingly few pastry chefs are chef’s personality or character, because household names. every chef, regardless of if they’re a Ansel’s Tokyo bakery Ansel has been compared to the savoury or a pastry chef, is different in legendary French chef Antonin Carême, their approach,” Ansel asserts. “In my who in the early 19th country wowed opinion, a great pastry chef understands Paris with his extravagantly decorative the combination and the balance of pièces montées, or confectionary their work, that it’s both a science and centrepieces. Carême cooked for an art, where being exact and being Napoleon, King George IV and the precise in measurements is just as Rothschild banking family, and became important as being creative and telling a one of the world’s first celebrity chefs. story through dessert.” It was Carême’s ambition to move As Ansel prepares to start a new beyond the patisserie that is said to chapter in his career, I ask him if there have revolutionised French cooking. is a frustrated head chef in every pastry He codified what he considered to be chef? “No,” he says, pointedly. Then why the four foundation sauces of French is it so important for a pastry chef like cuisine (béchamel, espagnole, velouté Ansel to extend his creative boundaries? and allemande), and is now widely “For us, it’s important to move forward, to regarded as one of the godfathers of push yourself and to continue to create,” haute cuisine. But Carême’s genius was he explains. “Creativity is something that only realised through his ambition to you should enjoy and be inspired by – you become a head chef. can’t force someone who isn’t creative to I wonder if there is something enjoy it. We have a saying here: ‘Don’t let inherently inventive and innovative about the creation kill the creativity,’ meaning don’t let creation stop you from continuing to create and innovate.” Could it be a desire for appreciation that sparks such creativity and invention? After all, pastry chefs don’t always enjoy the limelight that savoury chefs seem to hog. Ansel won’t be drawn on the idea: 86 87 “Not all chefs work for recognition. People do certainly appreciate the creations of pastry chefs these days though. But it’s not a competition, and a The cronut chef shouldn’t strive to do what they do just for the sake of recognition. It’s about

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pushing forward and creating good food Poilâne in Paris to share with people.” Ansel’s bakeries are full of the kind of creations that have won him plaudits in New York, such as the DKA (Dominique’s Kougin Ammann) pastry and the cookie shot. But each location offers something unique. In London, Ansel takes advantage of fine local dairy produce and a diverse and open-minded clientele, and lets his imagination run wild. As well as Banofee Paella (an upside- down banoffee pie in a paella dish), there’s the Welsh Rarebit Croissant. “It’s a lot of fun, with flaky butter layers and a centre filled with Guinness Worcestershire cheddar béchamel, whole grain mustard, and melted fontina on FIVE BAKERIES top. When it’s toasted up and warm, it’s absolutely delicious.” 1. Poilâne (Paris) So what can diners look forward to Set up in 1932, this family-run bakery is renowned for at Ansel’s first full-service place in Los its off-white crumb sourdough loaves. Other favourites Angeles? The restaurant’s name echoes include the apple turnovers (which often sell out) and the address of both its LA location (189 slices of toast topped with melted goats’ cheese. The Grove Drive) and the New York 8 rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris, poilane.com bakery’s address at 189 Spring Street. “It was meant to be,” says Ansel, before adding: “It reminds us of our home.” 2. Demel 3. La Mallorquina “There are a lot of firsts for us, as Konditorei (Vienna) (Madrid) it’s the first time we’ll be creating a full Vienna is famous for its One of Madrid’s oldest restaurant with table service, a full bar pastries and nowhere cafes, the huge window and cocktail programme, and brunch does it better than display is packed with service, so it’s definitely exciting for us. Demel. Renowned for local favourites including It’ll also be our largest project in the its beautiful window naplotanas, palmeras and world, spanning across two floors with displays, the cream cakes, torrijas (Spanish-French the restaurant upstairs and our bakery scones and strudels are toast). Grab a pastry component on the ground floor, with impossible to resist. and a coffee to go or sit indoor and outdoor terrace seating, and Kohlmarkt 14, 1010 Wien, outside and watch the beautiful open kitchens.” demel.at world go by. But when it comes to the food, Ansel Calle Mayor 2, 28103, is careful not to give too much away: “It Madrid will be rooted in French technique but won’t just be limited to French flavours throughout,” he says. “The dishes will 4. Dar Bistro (Beirut) 5. Café Frischhut be really market driven, especially now An oasis of calm in the (Munich) that we have access to so much more centre of Hamra, Dar Try the schmalznudel, fresh produce year-round, so I’m really Bistro offers a plethora of a Munich take on the looking forward to developing the menu mouthwatering treats. Go funnel cake, and you with that in mind.” for the chocolate walnut won’t be disappointed. Whether Ansel’s talents will transfer brownie and sit in the The clientele are a mix 86 87 from the bakery to the restaurant leafy courtyard. There’s a of regulars and in-the- remains to be seen. But don’t be bookshop too if you need know tourists and with surprised if you suddenly feel an some literature to go with an espresso costing just overwhelming desire to eat a savoury your calories. €2, it’s a great place for a Dominique Ansel dish you never knew Roma Street, Wardieh mid-morning pit-stop. you needed all along. Hamra, Beirut Prälat-Zistl-Str. 8, Munich

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The Beats and The Vanities A photo exhibition featuring two very different strands of American life

n exhibition featuring work In The Beats, he reveals the world of the the Vanity Fair Oscar parties. Fink’s from renowned photographer poets, dropouts and dreamers who made photographs are at once revealing Larry Fink’s books The Beats up the Beat generation. Taken during a and honest, showing the world’s most 88 89 and The Vanities, this is one of four-month-long trip through the US famous actors in a post-Oscar buzz. theA most compelling portraits of a side of and Mexico, it’s as intimate a portrayal of Fink’s skill is understanding those America mere mortals don’t usually get beatnik culture as you will see. he photographs and combining that to see. Comprising 125 original black and The Vanities is a glimpse at a world understanding with an artistic flair that white photographs, Fink’s work manages most of us will never see – Hollywood few photographers possess. to showcase two very different tribes. royalty letting their hair down at Armani/Silos until July 31, armanisilos.com

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Clockwise from opposite: Turk LeClair, a beatnik poet in Monterry, 1958; Cuba Gooding Jr and Raf Simmons at the 2002 Vanity Fair Oscars party; Naomi Watts and Lucy Liu at the 2000 party; Justin Portman and Natalia Vodianova at the 2007 party; beatniks in Ohio in 1958

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Barking Up The Wrong Tree By Eric Barker

t didn’t make any sense to him. Why would the human champ couldn’t win, but he might the computer do that? He eyed the clock. be able to get a draw. Yet Kasparov extended He didn’t want to waste too much time on his hand to Deep Blue’s human representative. a single move, but this was really bothering He gave up. In the remaining games Kasparov Ihim. It was 1997 and Gary Kasparov, the became defensive. Games three four, and five greatest chess master in the world, was playing would all end in draws. And in game six, he against Deep Blue, an IBM supercomputer. made a rookie error. He should have known It wasn’t merely a friendly game of chess; this better. But Kasparov was intimidated. He lost match had been blown up into an epic debate – the sixth game, and with it, the match. Machine which is smarter, man or machine? had finally beaten man. But was it really a Deep Blue was no slouch. Despite losing genius computer? Nope. In fact, the exact the overall match to Kasparov the previous opposite was true. The inexplicable move in year, it had won the first of the six games. And the first game was due to a software bug. IBM IBM’s team of engineers had spent the past had programmed in a fail-safe for just this type year honing Deep Blue’s software. of event. To prevent the machine from wasting At that moment, the machine had given too much time during a ‘hiccup’ it would make Kasparov pause. It was the 44th move of the a totally random move. So that’s what it did. first game and Deep Blue had Of course, Kasparov didn’t know shifted its rook from D5 to D1. this. He saw the move and figured Kasparov could not figure out Studies show Deep Blue knew what it was why it would want to do that. overconfidence doing – and that he didn’t. He Could it have made an error? increases read the computer’s random move That question was dangerous. as genius. Normally Kasparov For Kasparov to assume his productivity could look into the eyes of his opponent screwed up every time and causes you opponent and try to read him. he didn’t understand a move But Deep Blue never flinched. was lazy. It would be too easy to choose more Deep Blue wasn’t even capable to underestimate the machine challenging of flinching. It shook Kasparov’s because he had beaten it already. tasks, which confidence. Sometimes the mere He was the greatest chess appearance of confidence can be master alive. If he couldn’t figure make you the difference between winning out what the computer was doing, shine in the and losing. Successful people nobody could. While Deep Blue are confident. And the more had access to all of Kasparov’s workplace successful people become, the previous matches, Kasparov had more confident they are. very little knowledge of what the machine could Studies show overconfidence increases do. What if it was smarter than he thought? productivity and causes you to choose more What if instead of being able to think five or challenging tasks, which make you shine in 10 moves ahead, it was capable of thinking 20 the workplace. Overconfident people are more moves ahead? That 44th move didn’t end up likely to be promoted than those who have affecting the game. Kasparov won anyway – but accomplished more. 90 PB he was still visibly shaken. In the second game, Kasparov didn’t understand why Deep From Barking Up The Deep Blue made another inexplicable move. It Blue would move its rook, but he thought Wrong Tree by Eric Barker should have advanced its queen, but instead it the machine must have had a good reason, © 2017. Reprinted courtesy moved a pawn. This was good for Kasparov, but and that made him feel he wasn’t in control. of Harper, an imprint of again it didn’t make any sense. After only a few Without that control, he lost his confidence HarperCollins Publishers more moves, it was visible to all watching that and ultimately the match.

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