JMCS JMCS Winter Newsletter 2011

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Designed by Sarah Wright 2011 Secretary’s Introduction

Welcome to the 2011 edition of the JMCS Winter Newsletter, bursting with accounts of members’ recent mountain activities.

This is the second edition of the Newsletter to be published on the Internet rather than on paper. It is the first edition to feature the JMCS equivalent of a Pulitzer Prize. Members will be invited to vote for the article they liked best and a Tiso voucher will be presented to the author whose work attracts the highest number of votes. Further details of how to vote will be circulated by email.

The articles this year reflect the wide ranging nature of mountain activity which members get up to and the different places they go. Sun rock, Scottish ice climbing, hill walking and scrambling, Alpine mountaineering and ski touring are all represented, as is sailing to the island hills.

If there is a common theme it is that everyone has a good time and comes back safely; there are no major epics (although Big T and his Munroists maybe came close). Mountain literature wouldn’t be what it is if every tale had to be one of death or glory. I hope you enjoy by proxy, as it were, the enjoyment of the mountains that these articles reflect.

The Club is indebted to Sarah Wright for turning a disorderly pile of manuscripts into the quality production that you are now reading.

David Small

Contents Season of Smith’s and Melting In the last JMCS circular, our respected Secretary commented that nobody had Routefulness chosen to write about the glorious winter season of 2009/2010. Given that I enjoyed Ruth Love over 30 winter routes in that period, I thought that a few retrospective lines on the subject were due. And there definitely were some good lines. Don’t worry; I’m not going to take you through all 30+ of them! Just some highlights with everything from easy gullies to the steep stuff and with a cast of tens...

Comparisons were made to the exceptional winter of 1947 when, my father tells me, his uncle Jack who was a village “Carrier” died in the course of his work because his blood froze! How grateful we should be for our technical clothing that keeps us snug today.

But I was over dressed for the first route of the season. Good friend of long standing (and on winter belays he often is long standing) Graeme Tough (Underwater Hockey/Ferranti MC/SMC) and I had been on a state of alert to nip up to The Pentlands and find that grade I gully to climb. We both live near the venue and near to each other. Inspired on JMCS slide night by our member Charles Stupart’s photographs of his night time adventure in The Pentlands with Sue Marvell, I gave Graeme a phone. He was free that Saturday morning but needed to tie in with his family’s activities. So given a morning pass, we agreed to meet (Red) Ruth (his partner) and son Josh afterwards for some sledging up at Hill End! Donning full mountaineering kit, taking a rope and a shed load of gear we set off to find the gully Below Smith’s Gulley - second time around

Contents on what turned out to be a most beautiful time for The Bells! I just missed out on day. The Pentlands were snow covered The Grey Mare’s Tail but Stuart Bauchop and looking fabulous. We played around would I’m sure relate his tale of it! on some other gullies before discovering snow conditions were the main objective. I was due to climb Every time I climbed on Ben an Dothaidh “unusually continental in The Norries with a new partner the the sky was blue and the light fantastic. following day and wanted to practice Secretary Small, Admiral Weller and Dr and therefore avalanche a few “moves”. Of course we ended Love were a jolly JMCS trio on Taxus risk was high for quite a up soloing this delightful gully and the Direct (Ice fall finish) in early February Tough – Love team emerged on the ridge and were described by the only other period. Climbers took looking like Doug Scott having climbed climbing pair that we met that day as “A advantage of near to Everest. People walked past with their bunch of whippets”! We were particularly road ice and I was lucky dogs and children, not quite in T shirts fast and efficient and beat them to the but distinctly relaxed and wondered what route. A route with Heike Puchan on that enough to climb “Oui on earth we were up to! “Is it dangerous crag gave more stunning photographs Oui” down there?” they asked. But I did find an and another top day. But I think that Dave understanding kindred spirit back at the Amos and I were the luckiest there with a café after sledging. It was JMCS member route that everyone has been waiting for. Julian Hall waiting on his daughter’s It rarely comes into condition but Cirrus skiing lesson to finish. We JMCSers get IV 4** obliged on 21st February. Having “ everywhere! helped a lady with a stuck car (Ever gallant Dave) and encountered a whole Warm up completed, things became army, it seemed on a climbing holiday, we harder but there were one or two had to queue. But it was well worth the old favourite routes on the list as wait and with Dave wearing a red fleece circumstances dictated. As you will there were more superb photographs. probably remember, snow conditions were unusually continental and therefore Now both the above mentioned climbers avalanche risk was high for quite a are linked with the title of this article. period. Climbers took advantage of Season of Smiths it was indeed as I near to road ice and I was lucky enough enjoyed the eponymous (highlight) to climb “Oui Oui” (Creag Dubh) with route of the season twice within three Nina Tilston, The Steall Falls with David weeks! I climbed Smith’s Gully on Creag Small and Eas Anie (Ben a Chuirn) with Meagaidh first with Heike who is famed Lorraine McCall on New Year’s Eve. Just for her extreme alpine starts. I am as the last one on NYE that is! Walked out in keen as mustard but 3.00am is the a full moon and made it home to Simon earliest I have ever set my alarm in winter and a bottle of vintage chardonnay on from Edinburgh. Heike lives in Dunblane

Contents so a shorter drive from there but that would not have made any difference to her. An army like march in had us at the crag on time to slot in to the constant stream of Smith’s hopefuls. We waited for one pair to get going - not long but it gave us time to gear up. Heike had climbed the route before with her husband Brian and so I knew this could be my chance for a good shot at leading. More familiar with mixed leading at that grade, I felt that I could do with a few more steep ice leads under my belt (or harness I suppose!). Heike kindly encouraged me to go for it. So off I went up the first pitch which is arguably the hardest and got to work. And one did have to work the ice as it was very compact and had been chewed up a bit by the dozens of previous climbers. Narrow, twisted and overhanging towards the exit of the pitch The Admiral, the Dentist and the Secretary after Taxus Direct I perversely relished the excitement and was very pleased on reaching the belay. Thereafter we alternated and I got neighbours the night before leaving, I route recently but it was too good an another pitch of steep ice. It is a truly struggled at first. But these problems opportunity to miss. Conditions that day great and aesthetic route with its high soon melted away as fortunately the ice suggested that the Pinnacle Buttress side walls and feeling of being in the did not! Organ Pipes Wall and Peter Pan area would be safer and better. We heart of the mountain. Direct at Beinn Udlaidh saw us getting thought about Diadem etc but Alastair started. I was to return to this arena for Buchanan whom we had met, confirmed When I repeated the route with Dave more great ice climbing later on. Cirrus our initial thoughts about options. Amos, it was on the fourth day of what (already mentioned) was next before we Anything would have been a bonus after can only be described as a Sun Ice moved around to Creag Meagaidh. I had such a marvellous few days so that I Fest! The owners of the dental practice always wanted to climb The Pumpkin, really did not mind doing the route again. I work at granted me a Monday off at another Cold Climbs classic and so A deal was struck that I should lead the short notice which attached to my regular we did. Arrived the last day of the tour pitches not led already. Much better Tuesday off enabled me to join Dave and I had seen Dave looking longingly weather than the first time but the ice had for this mini break. Recovering from at Smith’s. A most considerate person, kinda shrunken a little. Still a stupendous illness and having been kept awake by Dave recognised that I had done the route and though my pitches were slightly

Contents easier, they were longer and I could “Pokey”. It was a bold lead and I am glad really relax and flow. We started the climb that he led it. this time after 8.00am but barely had to wait. Just the way it goes sometimes but Thereafter we were all at sixes and Smith’s was an extremely popular route sevens. East Face Route in Stob Coire I was only about a this particular season; people queuing Nan Lochan, Glen Coe, provided my “ from 3.00am some days! first attempt at seconding a technical metre above the 7. I thoroughly enjoyed it and decided Later in the season David Small and I it was “Engineery”. We had however to moving Gardyloo Gully climbed Smith’s little brother Ritchie’s abandon this route for another as it was and Dave and I could Gully just up from it. It is shorter and all falling apart. supposedly a grade easier than Smith’s not hear each other but deceptively steep on the first pitch – Cold Climbs classics featured highly for the roar Two people I met when with Heike took throughout the season. Too many to fright and ran away! (From Ritchie’s not mention but I finished the season with us!). The smart money was on Ritchie’s mad journeys to The Ben in late April, that day as blog reports proved. Mountain again with Dave. Two “Shots in the Dark” Guide Jonathon Preston and his wife you could say on the first trip which was “ were ahead of us on the route and I think on a Monday night after work. One was we were the only people to complete trying to find the CIC hut in the swirly anything on Meggy that day. snow and pitch black. The second being the eponymous route on Indicator Dave told me that he had not known We are not finished with the season of Wall area. Delicate stuff with amazing whether I would be on the end of the Smith’s so I will now transport to the Ben. exposure. Determined to be the last rope or not! I climbed Smith’s Route on Gardyloo people to leave The Ben; we travelled up Buttress as part of a series of “Coaching” to the CIC hut again the following Friday And so we finished in the sizzling sun days with Richard Bentley an MIC who night after work. I had planned to rise at and descended to Coire Leish with was also one of the assessors for my 3.00am to beat the predicted melt. But a chocolate box views and chocolate to Summer ML. Richard has given me a certain trio including hut custodian Robin eat! The others had climbed Psychedelic lot of help with technique for improving Clothier persuaded us to compromise Wall and had left the hut when we my leading grade and introduced me to and all five of us headed up Observatory returned to it. Robin had a rendezvous harder climbing in winter. I am fortunate Gully together at a later time, weaving somewhere. We did not leave the hut in that he lets me lead appropriate between the mini avalanches! On to for some time. Why? Was it cups of tea? pitches and thus it was with Smith’s. It safe ground and Dave led the first pitch Was it sunbathing? Was it falling asleep? was the second route of the day, the of Caledonia. I was only about a metre No. Dave had found a frozen scrunched first being the technically harder Kellet’s above the moving Gardyloo Gully and up T shirt near the summit cairn and was Route, left of Smith’s which Richard Dave and I could not hear each other for melting it by the fire! described in the CIC hut climbs book as the roar. On arriving at the first stance,

Contents An almost non-climbing year Euan Scott

Weather-wise the 10/11 winter was a raining at the car park. However within good cold one with plenty to go at. So half an hour the sun was peeking through lots of evening chats in the Starbank Inn the cloud and we were off. Heading into after suitably late starts at Alien Rock - the main corrie our planned route was potential partners keen to go, routes to the Fiacall couloir. Snow and ice were be done, families to be ignored. This in good condition and it felt good to have boundless wall of enthusiasm obviously the first route of the season ticked off resulted in lots of enjoyable trips. Err..... and with a new partner. Bruce seemed well one day trip resulting in two routes reassured that even though I had done with a club member I had not met straight shafted axes and used leashes before. I had a vague recollection of what I was supposed to do. So stood at the top of These routes then turned out to be the the route Bruce kept on pointing out an only two multi pitch routes I did all year. icefall down in the Corrie. These were combined with a sunny afternoon at Kingussie crag with the So a quick detour via Aladdin’s Direct family, one late evening trip to Hawkcraig, on the way back to the car was in order. one to Traprain and one horror story From a leisurely stroll to the bottom of at Auchinstarry. This would not seem the route it turned into a mad dash for to add up to a very good year from an the base of the route as two others also adventure point of view. However there were heading for it. Having got there first are three reasons why it was a good and being well out of breath it was very year. All easily summed up by future easy for me to make sure Bruce lead the promise. first pitch. Glad he did, as I did it with no style and was relieved that the rope was First there was a late winter trip with going up from my harness, not down. Bruce to the Norries. After a few Back at Bruce’s front door 15 hours after club members being unavailable, but picking him up all added to a fine day out. suggesting Bruce as a potential partner Unfortunately three weeks later the big I gave him a ring and a few false starts thaw set in and that was winter done. later we managed to arrange a day trip up North. The northern corries were the Second trip was an afternoon cragging obvious choice and true to form it was with the family at Kingussie crag. There

Bruce in the Couloir

Contents Neil and John heading back to Tobermory

“The Force 5 beat down the Sound of Mull on Sunday blew any cobwebs away! “

was some glorious early summer sun The last trip was something different The Force 5 beat down the Sound of whichcombined with fantastic views as the highest point reached was the Mull on Sunday blew any cobwebs away! across the Spey valley and some Mishnish Bar in Tobermory, all of 4 A great weekend with a real feeling of pleasant easy climbing. Our eldest, metres above sea level! It was an end “being out there”. With it being very late Alex (12), has been to Alien Rock and of year trip with Neil Boyd and a friend sailing season we were the only boat on Ratho a few times, but this was only John, to take John’s boat from Loch the west side of Mull and the day hada his second time outdoors. Both times Melfort to Loch Crerar (30 miles) where very similar feel to a long winter day he has enjoying it. Though he might it was to be left overwinter. On Friday on a remote hill where you see no one be labouring under the idea that rock evening on the way to the boat we else. On previous trips John has said climbing in Scotland is always sunny. stopped off at the Real Food Cafe and before that he doesn’t really understand Hopefullythe climbing bug has bitten. a bit of scheming by Neil and myself climbing and why we do it, but I think Only a few more years and he will be resulted in us going via the West side having two climbers wittering on about carrying the heavy sack and then only a of Mull as well (110 miles). Apart from the similarities sort of made him see what few more and he will be carrying his Dad! me feeding the fish at the South end we got from it. We were at Jock’s for a few days, so of the Sound of Iona it felt like a stolen he also managed to get some mountain trip - totally unexpected with a great So the future promises - another club biking at the Wolftrax centre just beyond sail passed the Treshnish Islands. Ben member who is prepared to climb with Lagan. Fiona and Alex also managed More stayed under cloud cover, but we me, a son with great Sherpa potential an afternoon skiing. Only part of the top had views of Rhum, Eigg, Muck and and a friend with a new boat and a spirit run was open, but again it was a sunny Coll. Saturday’s sail was finished off with of adventure. Maybe not much done this afternoon. I think he may be getting in all a sunny meander into the fleshpots of year, but so much promise! his good weather days in early on. More Tobermory. A few beers and a pub meal importantly he is enjoying the outdoors. and a whisky meant a contented crew.

Contents Better than Kirrie Hill? Climbing above the Aegean

Kalymnos Sport Climbing Bryan Rynne

This year, for our ‘traditional’ early season rave reviews. In fact, I thought it was so areas the routes end in a layer of tufa climbing trip abroad, Patrick and I decided good I went back again in October, with type material, which takes a bit of getting to give long, multi-pitch routes (and James Dalgarno. used to but is OK when you do. There associated thunderstorms) a miss and try are also a large number of steep juggy out Kalymnos - a Mecca for fans of single In terms of the number, quality and range routes if you operate at 7a and above, pitch sports routes. Over the last few of routes Kalymnos is now probably the and an enormous cave, the Grande years we have heard a string of people best sports climbing area in Europe. The Grotta, which is very steeply overhung, come back from trips to Kalymnos raving current guide has 64 sectors and about and whose roof is covered in tufas and about how good it is. Even die-hard, 1,700 routes, mostly easily accessible bizarre, large stalactites on which you can anti-bolt fundamentalists seem unable from the main centre of Masouri (20 climb, or even lie down on some of them to avoid admitting they have enjoyed minutes counts as a long walk in here). and have a rest! It is also worth noting that themselves there. In light of this, Patrick There is a lot of sharp slabby limestone, the bolting is almost invariably extremely and I went out there in April, and after the but also lots of pocketed routes and good, while the grading is slightly on the experience I would say it lives up to the bridging and hand jamming. In some soft side – you might even come home

Contents having achieved a personal best. 1 hour (assuming you go directly to the correct cave...), and the walk back to the The obvious competition, in terms of size, jetty is about 1.5 hours. We both felt that most days were spent is the Costa Blanca, but having been to Wings for Life was actually much more “on single pitch sports the Costa Blanca on a large number of fun than Wild Country, and I did Wings for occasions I preferred Kalymnos (however, Life again with James when I went there routes, but Patrick and the Costa Blanca has the long routes on in October. I did succumb to the the Puig Campana and is maybe more temptation to do both amenable in the depths of winter). The accompanying photos give some idea of what the place it like. Overall, I would of the long routes Patrick and I had 10 days there in late say - ‘go there, it is great’! April, and James and I had a week there in late October. In all that time the only Some practical details: rain I had was one drizzly morning, and I was able to climb the rest of the time in Travel be too hot to climb, so in April Patrick and “ sunshine, except when the crag was in I flew to Gatwick one evening and then the shade. The guide tells you which way The trickiest part of going to Kalymnos is to Kos next morning (both with Easyjet). crags face, and when they get the sun, simply getting there! We managed the return journey in one and this means that it is usually possible There are two main options: day. In October, Easyjet had stopped to find something suitable for either hot flights to Kos, but James and I got the days or cool windy days. (a) fly to Kos, then get a bus or taxi to final Thomson holiday flight of the year to Mastichari, then a ferry to Pothia on Kos from Newcastle. Both these options Of course, most days were spent on Kalymnos, then another bus or taxi to seemed to work relatively well (well, see single pitch sports routes, but Patrick Masouri. below for a caveat to that). and I did succumb to the temptation to do both of the long routes ‘Wings for Life’ (b) fly to Athens, then fly directly to NB due to striking air traffic controllers, 6a, 250m 11 pitches and ‘Wild Country’ Kalymnos. and bus and taxi drivers, our journey out 6a+, 265m, 9 pitches, up either side of the in October made the Odyssey seem like ‘Crystal Cave’ on the island of Telendos, in The main problem with (b), when I a Saga holiday. So, to slightly modify the bay just off Masouri. These were both looked into it, is that it seemed to be fairly my above advice - go there when the highly enjoyable days out. Overall, Wild expensive and the flights did not match Greeks have stopped wrecking their own Country is considerably harder than Wings up, so you needed to spend a night in economy, don’t even think about it before for Life, being much more sustained and Athens each way - however, this may not then. having harder cruxes. In fact, the first 6 still be the case. pitches of Wings for Life were overgraded Accommodation and took Patrick and me about an hour, I did alternative (a) on each trip. There even pitching them as normal. The walk are a lot of charter flights to Kos, but they There is a lot of cheap accommodation in to the cave from the small ferry is about do not start up until May, when it seems to available in Masouri and you don’t need

Contents Patrick on the crux pitch of Wild Country to hire a car - you can walk to many of the crags from Masouri, and there is a fairly good bus service that gets you to most of the others (the maximum distance you need to go is about 6 miles). Alternatively, there is a thriving trade in scooter hire.

The standard accommodation consists of 2 or 3 bed apartments with toilet and shower, a small sink and tea-making area, with a fridge, so you can do your own breakfast, and a balcony looking out over the bay to Telendos. The going rate seems to be about 15-25 Eu twin, and 25-35 Eu triple, per night.

Temperatures

In both April and October it was often quite hot during the day, but it could be fairly windy, and cold in the shade first thing in the morning. Also, you often find yourself sitting on balconies eating (breakfast in your apartment and dinner in a restaurant), and this can be fairly cold, so it is worth bringing both skimpy tops and a down jacket or buffalo shirt!

Contents Sales of Goretex were good that year

The Met Office had “issued a weather warning with strong winds and heavy rain forecast. It was just like 21 years earlier when I attempted a Scottish hill, Ben Vorlich above Loch Earn “ A wee gentle stroll with Big T Thomas Beutenmuller

I joined the JMCS in 1999. As I have have the people who have been climbing Sgurr a’Chaorachain I could see Kyle of always been employed in the care with me since I joined the JMCS. The next Lochalsh and even the islands of Eigg profession, and have to work a lot of consideration was a venue for the après and Rum. However, a fortnight later the weekends, I am not always able to come climbing, and suitable accommodation. weather could not have been any more along to weekend meets. Last October I Ruth Love suggested Ratagan Youth different: The Met Office had issued a had a good enough reason to organise my Hostel, which made the Kintail Lodge weather warning with strong winds and own meet: My last Munro party! Hotel the ideal choice for the celebratory heavy rain forecast. It was just like 21 meal! years earlier when I attempted a Scottish As my “Munro campaign” drew to a close hill, Ben Vorlich above Loch Earn, for it became apparent that “the last one” To make sure that there would be no the first time. New to Scotland, I was would be Sgurr Choinnich to the southeast nasty surprises on the “big day”, I went not convinced that there were “proper” of Achnashellach, in the BernaisOberland. for a “recce” a fortnight before the set mountains in this country: I saw a hill on I started to think about who I wanted to date. The weather was fantastic: sunny, a map which was quoted as 984 metres invite. Apart from my family, I wanted to warm and no wind. From the summit of high…come on, back home in the Black

Contents I set up base in Ratagan Youth Hostel. of soup and was keen that everyone The children spent the time drawing their got something warm in their stomachs. dad “Last Munro” cards and pictures. I As it turned out, we would need all the As we were mainly all suppose I have talked about this subject sustenance we could get…. “crazy peak baggers rather a lot recently. I asked myself what to some extent or on earth wouldI talk about in the future? Saturday, 30th October 2010 started with Would I just turn into a taxi driver for my a bang-literally. A loud clap of thunder at another nobody kids and the only thing I would climb in 4 am probably woke up everybody in the wanted to turn back, the future would be the stairs in Ikea? On county! I did not sleep much thereafter, because the tick is the other hand, I had been a bit obsessed and was a bit worried about the day over the last years. All those drives up ahead. The sensible thing would have everything! the A9 after work, camping in car parks, been to cancel the event, but as the walking or cycling up obscure tracks. wheels were very much set in motion this Going along a ridge and keep “ticking” was easier said than done….So, a few before facing the long tired drive back hours later we had a rushed breakfast and home again. Good job Stewart Bauchop set off to the forest commission car park Forest some of the car parks are higher“ had introduced me to bivvying! A few behind Gerry’s Hostel in Craig. We were than this! However, I was bewildered years ago we had walked the entire North greeted by Dave and Mary-Lucy More when I was battered by the strong gales Shiel ridge over a weekend and had and Brian Donaldson, who had travelled and had to crawl behind a boulder for bagged an astonishing nine Munros in the down from Ullapool. Seventeen of us set cover! Time to reassess! I returned a few course of the outing! This saved a lot of out across the railway line and into the weeks later and was fortunate to climb effort really, as we did not have to set out wilderness. Things did not look too bad to Ben Vorlich on a cold and crisp autumn from the valley each day. I also applied begin with, but the closer we came to the day, enjoying extensive views across this technique to the Grey Corries, the mountain we could see the clouds being the Southern Highlands from its summit. Fisherfield Forest and the Fannichs. As I blown along the summit ridge; the signs This experience ‘hooked’ me instantly, said, I was a bit obsessed in those days. were set for a storm. and I was keen to climb more Scottish Maybe it was not a bad thing that my three hills. It actually took me four or five years children and wife would see a bit more of The first major obstacle was to cross the after this first hill to realise what a Munro me again at the weekends. Perhaps they wire bridge at Pollan Buidhe. The path was! An article by Cameron McNeish in would even like to go for a wee walk up a continued and brought us to the Bealach a German travel magazine enlightened hill with me from time to time…… Bernais. Things took a turn for the worse me to this folly and by the time I moved from there on. The rain started in earnest, to Scotland permanently in 1995, I The people I had invited for the “last one” and it also became seriously windy. Every possessed my own copy of the SMC arrived in dribs and drabs on the Friday member of the party was battered by the guide to the Munros. evening. The YH wardens were very onslaught and blown over at least once. relaxed and allowed me to play host for I became more and more concerned. So it was that last October my family and the evening. I had prepared a big pot I had come to celebrate my big day,

Contents with the locals at the hotel’s Halloween party that night……At about 11:30pm the party moved from the hotel to the hostel. Fortunately “lights out at…” and “no alcohol allowed” are things of the past, so the sitting room became our late night venue. Some other guests also staying the night at the hostel remembered having met me in Shenavall bothy a few years ago and kept filling my glass with whisky. I got my guitar out, and things went along nicely. Somehow none of us had remembered to put my son Calum to bed, and everybody had a great time. At the stroke of 2 o’clock, as Ruth Love Objective hazards claim another victim was pole-dancing, still wearing her witch’s outfit, the door opened and my wife Esther enquired about the whereabouts of our not to re-enact the Cairngorm tragedy! the valley was called for. I had to wait for firstborn, and I suddenly found myself An outsider would have assessed the my friend Alastair to play a tune on the alone in the room…… What an end to a situation analytically: high winds, heavy pipes until we got back to the car park. great day. Not only had I ticked off my last rain showers, get the hell out of here! As I’m sure I’ve heard him play better, but Munro and potentially endangered the we were mainly all crazy peak baggers to his fingers were in the early stages of lives of a third of the active members of some extent or another nobody wanted to frostbite, so I did not complain…What a the JMCS Edinburgh, I also introduced my turn back, because the tick is everything! nice end to a wee gentle stroll…….Like son to late night partying! I am confident So we carried on, at one point taking the first Munroist AE Robertson all those that it won’t take long before “the ticking shelter in a shallow cave consulting the years ago I also kissed the cairn before bug” will pass on to Calum as well, and GPS, and praying to the weather god. the wife, because in my case she and God only knows what he and his pals will We were so close and everybody was in the children had stayed at the base in the get up to after his last Munro…… good spirits. So eventually we managed valley. to reach the summit of Sgurr Coinnich, Thanks to all the folk who came along and my last Munro.It was too windy to get Unfortunately the More’s were not able made my day such a memorable one. the champagne or the bagpipes out of to come back to the hotel with us, and Thanks as well to all of you who helped the rucksack, and even drinking some Brian Donaldson and Stewart Bauchop me exploring the Scottish Highlands over sips of whisky out of a hip flask had its also had to return home early. The rest the years. I would not have been to half challenges, as some of the liquid went of us had a very nice evening in the the places without the one or other helping straight into my eyes! After some photos Kintail Lodge Hotel. Some people made hands you all gave me over the years. were taken a hasty retreat back down to more of an effort than others to blend in

Contents A Solo Tour Stuart Buchanan

It’s just before Christmas, and the chairlift towards Glas Maol. Up and over crust with a ice axe that’s too short to forecast is good. While the blanket of the first rise, stripping skins off to make make indentations. I tiptoe up the slope snow of early December has receded, the most of the all too short descent, then wishing my boots were a bit more sturdy there’s still good snow in the hills. I’ve got a second climb to the wide col below and I could kick steps. a pass to go skiing, but no-one else can Glas Maol itself, a rounded mass not come out to play. Freedom awaits. quite conquered by the ski lifts. Soon enough the slope lessens, and I can get back on the skis for the final It’s early in the morning in Glenshee car I had hoped that previous walkers and rise to the summit cairn. There’s not a park. Well worn leather boots are old skiers would have left a trail of steps up cloud in the sky and the sun is bright but friends on my feet, skins put on skis the steep, always icy slope, but no such provides no warmth. It’s a baltic morning, skis the night before (an old trick from luck today. Skis strapped to the back, I and I’m alone. A quick bite to eat and the Davy), and I start up the ski slopes by the bend almost double to chip away at the skins are off. My aim today is Tom Buidhe

Contents and Tolmont, small munros on the rolling tops I could ski to with more daylight and plateau that extends east from Glas Maol a car in Glen Clova. Sadly I have to turn all the way to Lochnagar, Broad Cairn back towards Cairn of Claise. A couple of and Driesh. turns are followed by some free-running Having eked out as down the slope, trying to keep as much “much of the running The descent from Glas Maol is icy, and momentum as possible to get across the as possible, it’s time the wind chill excruciating. Three pin flat col once more. Skins back on then a bindings, leather boots and straight plod up to Cairn of Claise, forced to slow for some wax and a edged skis feel skittish under foot, but my pace as I realize my mind is writing balaclava to restore I still manage some turns on the way cheques my legs can no-longer cash. down the broad shoulder towards Cairn Lack of fitness has caught up with me. feeling to my ears of Claise. From Cairn of Claise it’s a gently descent Having eked out as much of the running towards Cairn an Tuirc. The snow as possible, it’s time for some wax and a remains perfect for nordic touring – a balaclava to restore feeling to my ears. couple of inches of sublimated powder “ Then a lazy langlauf round the side of on a firm base. I overhaul a group of Cairn of Claise. A fox jumps out of the alpine tourers just as I reach the summit snow and runs ahead of me, my only – the only people I’ve seen all day away company. The skiing is excellent (slightly from the ski slope. They take the steep downhill!) and before too long I reach the descent straight from the summit, while bottom of the final climb to Tom Buidhe, I descend more easily by dog-legging to joining some old clawprints from a man the North. The snow is fantastic, a foot on crampons and his dog. A short skin to of ethereal powder. Unfortunately I’m the summit, then a lovely ski back down not good enough to make the most of it, the slope towards Tolmont, carving long and descend with a mixture of tentative radius telemark turns on the easy angled telemark turns and snowploughs, with snow. only the occasional slip onto my side.

The skin to the summit of Tolmont is The slope shallows and I can descend again easy, though I leave the skis just with more style down the broad stream below the rocky summit and have a nice banks towards the road, carving turns lunch looking down Glen Callater. The with only the hiss of the snow and the air is still and silent, only broken by the running water for company. rustle of my clothing as I eat my piece. To the east I can see the undulating hill heading off into the distance – so many

Contents Golden Eagles, Midges and Hummingbirds Roy Harrison

Isle of Rum, 10-13 June 2011 as part of a traverse of the Rum Cuillin. who gave Terry a ticking off and some Roy Harrison, Terry Lansdown, and a Terry, attracted by the opportunity to visit very stern glares; it was possibly only large number of Grontmij employees Rum, came along with us; we planned to because of the absence of police on our extend the trip and do some rock climbing island destination that she didn’t threaten Arrival while we were there. to call the authorities. We decided against eating any of the sorry selection of deep- This trip was organised by the walking The weekend began with the long drive fried foodstuffs on offer (instead opting for club of Grontmij Ltd, the firm of consulting to Mallaig, to catch the ferry for the scenic a rather fine selection of antipasti, bread engineers where I work, as our annual sail past Eigg to arrive at the pier on Loch and fruit that we had brought with us – for fundraising charity walk for the Wateraid Scresort, about 1km from Kinloch Castle. some reason much to the amusement Corbett Challenge. The objective of the Terry, with an eagle eye, spotted the of our fellow party), although our ‘free’ challenge was to get a team onto the sachets of ketchup in the ferry cafe and, sachets were more than paid for by summit of every Corbett in the country expecting they would come in useful for deciding to have a delicious (?!) can of between 12pm and 2pm on the 11th June; our impending camping, decided to take Tennent’s each, which cost considerably our targets were Askival and Ainshval on a few. This was definitely not appreciated more than a pint of premium lager in an the Isle of Rum, which we would complete by the grumpy woman working in the cafe, expensive George Street bar.

Contents Upon arrival, a short 10 minute walk The Castle led Terry and I to our camping spot; a lovely grassy clearing by the sea, with The island was bought in 1888 by John a small wooden shelter perfect for rainy Bullough, a wealthy Lancashire man Today the island has cooking and late night whisky drinking. who made his fortune from innovations “ no police presence The rest of the party continued to the in the design of spinning and weaving hostel, which had also sent a car to meet machinery. Around the turn of the century and a definite sense of the ferry and collect everyone’s bags. his son George built Kinloch Castle, isolation; it feels like it’s Our decision to camp could have been predominantly as a grand hunting lodge, a mistake in horrible weather, but in using sandstone from Annan in Dumfries probably full of wanted the warm sunshine it turned out to be a and Galloway. The castle itself featured criminals, fleeing the fantastic choice. Whilst everyone queued various design innovations, such as for showers in the cramped and overfull air conditioning rising from the floor authorities after a spate former servant’s quarters (resplendent of the games room, which meant that of Post Office hold-ups with a large 50th birthday party group windows could be left shut, keeping out of heavy-drinking Aberdonians), Terry the dreaded midge. To undertake the in the 1960s and I had exclusive use of two brand construction work, men were brought up new toilets and two warm, gas-powered from Lancashire, and at Bullough’s whim showers. were instructed to wear kilts. Shocked by the horror of the Highland midge, the men After setting up camp we had a brief complained about having to wear skirts, “ discussion about whether to begin the so to placate them Bullough offered a weekend with a quick walk into the hills, pay supplement to anyone who smoked, but instead we opted to sit in the sun on a in a vain attempt to keep the midge rolls; it is one of only three in existence, pretty stone pier, drink a bottle of red wine numbers down. Bullough was by most and the only one that still works. Also and enjoy the views. Sometimes there is accounts an eccentric character, who for part of the tour is a strange little dental more to life than climbing! The weather example kept a heated conservatory full surgery, full of macabre-looking historical was absolutely incredible for most of the of hummingbirds. When they all died due dental equipment. Unfortunately time weekend, and it was nice to get updates to a heating failure he promptly had them is taking its toll on the property, with from people elsewhere: London, Leeds, all stuffed and put in glass cases, which water leaks damaging the interior and, and Edinburgh all reported horrible rainy remain in the castle to this day. more significantly, the steel frame of the weather. I hope I’m not the only one who building, and fundraising efforts continue. secretly enjoys good weather in Scotland On the final day before leaving, Terry more if I know that others are enduring and I took a tour around the castle; it was Today the island has no police presence miserable wind and rain. However, in fascinating and well worth the money. The and a definite sense of isolation; it feels typical Scottish style the good weather tour includes well preserved bedrooms, like it’s probably full of wanted criminals, was a double edged sword, and the lack dining rooms and games rooms. There is fleeing the authorities after a spate of Post of wind permitted our old friend Culicoides the chance to see fascinating things like Office hold-ups in the 1960s (or possibly impunctatus (the Highland midge) to the ‘orchestron’, an electric driven organ a spree of sauce sachet theft). With no emerge in full force. that plays music from perforated card proper asphalt roads there is not much

Contents use for a car, although people on the down on us. At over 20km distance and the same thing. After the best part of 10 island do have them. However, they’re 2000m of ascent, the traverse of the Rum hours walking we really weren’t relishing mostly in a very bad state of repair and Cuillin is a long day, though well worth the prospect of undertaking the 8km unlikely to pass an MOT test (I would the effort. At the end of the traverse we walk back to the other side of the island. guess that a rhododendron bush growing descended to the picturesque Dibidil Deciding that we would be no use to through the floor is probably an MOT bothy, where we faced the 8km walk anyone without a decent meal in us, we fail). back along the pretty coastal path, which sat down to eat. Mercifully, just before though occasionally boggy was nowhere we’d finished eating the missing person Walking near as bad as some reports. returned; he’d fallen behind the group he was with and walked off the final summit On Saturday morning we awoke to Without the need to wait for the shower in the wrong direction. I was (slightly perfect weather, and enjoyed really queues to die down, Terry and I had a selfishly) very relieved to see him. fantastic walking and scrambling around quick shower then headed to the Castle the ridge, with amazing views towards for our pre-booked dinner and, more After we finished dinner most of us the outer Hebrides, the Skye Cuillin importantly, a nice cold beer. However, retired to the small cosy pub, nestling in and over to Eigg. Unlike the rest of the just as we sat down for dinner word came a corner of the grand courtyard within the party, Terry and I generally opted for the round that the final member of the party castle. At one point in the evening there avoidable scrambling, which was very hadn’t returned, and nobody knew where was a sudden commotion, as everyone enjoyable on good solid rock. However, he was. My first, very depressing, thought rushed outside to see a Search and we struggled a little with route finding on was that as one of the more experienced Rescue helicopter landing in the gardens the ascent of Askival so decided to down- members of the group I would have to of the castle (the downdraft from which climb and skirt around, despite being go and help look for him; an anguished gave brief respite from the evil midge). taunted by a goat triumphantly peering look at Terry confirmed he was thinking One of the group of Aberdonians had

Contents tits and other falcon-fodder, with hills. We had our eye on a few multipitch numerous herons usually feeding in the VDiff and Severe routes, some of The birdlife is shallow sea of Loch Scresort. However, which sounded really quite pleasant. “ the island is perhaps best known for Unfortunately, armed only with an ancient especially good; its Manx Shearwater population (which guidebook with no pictures of any of even in the vicinity strangely has the scientific name Puffinus the routes, or even the crag, locating puffinus), burrow-nesting sea birds with ourselves was not easy. After much of Kinloch there are a raucous cackling call, which may have umming and ahhing, we finally decided led to rumours of trolls and given the hill that we must be at the base of the route dozens of songbirds, Trollaval its name. we wanted, although as it transpires we tits and other had fallen badly into the trap of fitting White Tailed Sea Eagles are sometimes the rock to the route description. After falcon-fodder seen on the island, although unfortunately scrambling up loose rock and chossy this year they hadn’t been successful in vegetation we concluded we were breeding. However, two pairs of golden probably not on route, and only when eagles had bred, and on Sunday on our Terry reached the top of the second pitch way up Barkeval Terry and I were lucky could he see where we should have enough to watch for ten minutes or so as been. I don’t think either of us has ever “ one circled high above us. And after our been so embarrassingly off route. We been out walking, had an argument long walk the previous day, this was also were the best part of 500m away from with her partner and then stormed off a great excuse to take a short break. where we should have been! Tired from without map, compass or any knowledge the previous day, we decided that we of where she was. A number of words Larger mammals on the island include couldn’t be bothered descending again to to describe her spring to mind, none of red deer, goats and otters. Most unique, complete our intended route, so instead which are suitable for publication in this however, are the famous Rum ponies, settled for a gentle walk to the summit of article. After the excitement had died a specific breed of stocky and powerful Barkeval, which nicely meant that we had down, we all had a couple more drinks, but docile working animal still used to seen the summit of all of the main hills of then Terry and I retired to the camping bring culled deer off the hill, which out of the Rum Cuillin. area for a fire (using the complementary season are allowed to roam free across wood), and a couple of drams before bed. the island. We ate dinner and spent the evening in the pub, then awoke the following The Beasts Climbing day and took the tour of the castle. On the way to the ferry we bumped into The wildlife is spectacular and the Unfortunately the weather wasn’t quite the island ranger and had a nice chat majority of the island is a Nature as nice on the Sunday, but regardless about the island wildlife, before paying Reserve, Site of Special Scientific Terry and I slowly got our stuff together him our modest but worthwhile camping Interest, Special Protection Area, and and headed for the southern slopes of fees. The journey back was long, but Special Area of Conservation. The birdlife Barkeval. After the long previous day, despite tiredness and a minor climbing is especially good; even in the vicinity of it wasn’t a bright and early start, and catastrophe, we were happy after a Kinloch there are dozens of songbirds, we certainly weren’t bounding into the fantastic weekend on a magical island.

Contents Iain at the helm, Rum Cuillin behind

A Rum Royal Weekend Richard Weller

Distinguished members of the JMCS in Oban at midday on the tide flooding up A beautiful overnight sail round these times of easy travel and (surely not the sound of Mull. Julie stayed behind Ardnamurchan, between Eigg and Canna true) an unpatriotic fear of rain and midges watching the wedding on TV with Oban and then two long beats up the east coast are frequently to be found disporting friends, as we ran up the sound. Later of Rum, standing in to Dibidil and admiring themselves in summer on Mediterranean that evening we rendezvoused in the Rum Cuillin unrolling before us. At sea cliffs, French crags or Alpine peaks. Tobermory, courtesy of Mr Caledonian 9am we dropped anchor in Loch Scresort Scotland’s real gem though is the MacBraynes wife delivery service. As in perfect sunshine, blue waters and blue combination of mountains and sea found we ate our dinner in the evening light and skies. The usual flurry of activity- dinghy together on the west coast. With the long waited for the tide to turn, we swithered launching, breakfast making, sandwiches, weekend to celebrate the royal wedding over Rum or Knoydart. The decision was walking kit, checking the anchor again, we had four days in the best time of year made for us by the amount of east in the and we puttered ashore. This was my for a tour of this magical country. wind and at 1am we slipped from the first visit to Rum in sunshine, and I was A gloriously sunny Friday morning saw pontoon and sailed through the night for desperate to get into those hills in such Jake, Iain and me setting sail from Rum. perfect conditions.

Contents On the descent from Askival “Looking back with binoculars to Loch Scresort I could check that the anchor was not dragging - although if it had been, I am not sure what I could have done!

Rum is one of the most magnificent of of Askival.The ascent from here is along and has an idyllic bay to anchor in, so we “ Hebridean islands, with mountain scenery a narrow and airy ridge. It steepens at weighed anchor and had a beautiful sail as dramatic as anywhere in Scotland, and the top, and Askival pinnacle is graded close in along the north coast of Rum. with the remoteness and lack of roads moderate, although we turned this to The evening peace was too beautiful to of Knoydart. We missed the path past the east. Looking back with binoculars disturb with an engine, so we dropped the castle onto the hill, and bushwacked to Loch Scresort I could check that the anchor under sail, the only boat to be through heather for a while before getting anchor was not dragging- although if it seen. Canna has an utterly different back on track. At the head of the burn had been, I am not sure what I could have feel to it from Rum. Sunday was spent coming down fromCoireDubhare the done! Finally the summit, and all of the strolling through beaches and bluebell remains of a small dam, part of Bullough’s western seaboard laid out before you. To filled woods, watching sea-eagles and attempts to improve the fishing on the the west, across the Minch the hills of painting. In the afternoon, we weighed, island. Sweating in the warm weather South Uist and Barra. Skye and its Cuillin and cruised down the west side of Rum, we climbed up over the BealachBairc- dominating to the north, and the long line and tracing out the previous days walk, mheall to be met by a view as fine as any of hills on the mainland from Knoydart, and planning trips to come to Trallval in Scotland,across to Bealach an Oirand through Moidart to Ardnamurchan. and Ainshval. Round Ardnamurchan at the whole of the Rum Cuillin ridge. We Nowhere is as beautiful. dusk, a brief wait for the tides to change scrambled round the boulders and scree in Tobermory bay, and at 11am we were on the western slopes of Halival and Lunch on the summit and then retracing back on our mooring in Oban. A perfect then paused for a 30 minute snooze at our steps to the boat. Canna, one of our Scottish weekend. the col below the northern summit ridge favourite islands, only 7 miles from Rum

Contents On top of the Pointe Cineastes

Travels with Roo and the Mona Lisa David Small Roo Finlayson and I met at Edinburgh It was the kind of early morning that carousel. At the car hire desk we met two Airport early one morning last August induces a focus on the negative; a misty, British guys who, like us, had just flown in; to get the Easy Jet flight to Geneva. If damp, dreary Turnhouse full of queues of unlike us, they were headed straight for all went well we would come back eight folk who had slept too little after too many the Italian Ridge. We wondered whether days later having climbed the Matterhorn drinks ending too few hours beforehand, we should not skip the acclimatization by the Italian Ridge. If some things went and we knew that the European forecast routine and go with them – the short term well we would come back having climbed for the coming week was unsettled. forecast was ok. But Roo had efficiently something else. If a few things went well booked accommodation for several nights we could come back. If nothing went well Geneva was different; sun and warmth ahead and, as a lawyer, I am inclined to ….. who could tell? creating an optimistic aura around even respect the sanctity of contract, be it with the passport queue and the baggage Italian hut guardians and hoteliers, or

Contents whomsoever. So we wished them, and young, but in a way that might cover ourselves, good luck and stuck to our plan virtually any age between 18 and 35. All to drive to Alagna, on the Italian side of that you could say was that here was Monte Rosa, in order to spend some time a presentable smiling person who was high up before going on to Cervinia and happy in Financial Analysis. She made Next morning we the Matterhorn. you want to be a Financial Analyst too. “ set out under a Somewhere on the drive from Geneva Over the many kilometers of road that clear starry sky to to Alagna I became aware of the Roo and I drove that holiday, we tried Mona Lisa. Roo had brought her with and failed to pin down her background tick some summits. him. She was on the cover of a study and circumstances in any more detail. manual he was reading in preparation Speculate as we might, the smile which Monte Rosa is for an exam towards qualifying as a enticed you to join her in the world of a 4000m peak- Chartered Financial Analyst. On the long Financial Analysis was the only certainty. motorway journeys, while I was driving, The journey from Geneva to Alagna is a bagger’s paradise he would look through a chapter or two long one; you have to go to the far end of this manual until he fell asleep, or we of the Aosta valley, where the mountains reached a pay station and he had to run out, then cross a tedious section of find his wallet in a hurry, or navigational hot flat country full of maize fields until input was required. When I refer to finally starting to wend your way into the this person as the Mona Lisa you must mountains again. We made things worse “ understand that she was not the da Vinci for ourselves by going round by the Great painting. In fact she was the opposite St Bernard tunnel rather than the Mont of that image in many ways. She was Blanc tunnel, which the road signs said mountaineering. We enjoyed the views blonde, contemporary, overtly smiling was busy. As we went, Roo read out to me and the sunshine, but an uneasy feeling and the background to her photographic some choice bits of information about the persisted that we were having the weather portrait was the interior of an office, functioning of the financial system, while now that we would want in a few days’ not a mysteriously disjointed medieval the Mona Lisa, face down on his lap, kept time on the Matterhorn. landscape. But her picture had the Mona her counsel. After many hours of driving Lisa’s qualities of being utterly enigmatic we finally got a dramatic view of Monte Next morning we set out under a clear and inscrutable. As portrayed on the front Rosa towering above the far end of the starry sky to tick some summits. Monte of Roo’s book, she gave away nothing Alagna valley, and shortly after that we Rosa is a 4000m peak-bagger’s paradise. about where she came from, what her were enjoying the first beer and pizza of There are lots of “peaks” which can be circumstances were, what stage in the holiday. done one after another in a single day her career she was at, where she was if you just keep plodding. I say “peaks” working, or indeed anything you might The next day we took the easy way up because the height drop and re-ascent want to know. She could have been boss to the hut; 90% telepherique and 10% between some of them is not very big. In or intern, Irish or Swedish, living in Madrid walking. The weather was perfect and the respect of the least significant summit the or London, married with a teeming family forecast remained good for that and the guidebook sternly remarks “4000 meters or single with a cat. She seemed quite next day, which would be our first day of it may be, but peak it is not”. But starting

Contents Roo on the Parrotspitze up the Pyramide Vincent we didn’t care; a scrambly ridge in the pre-dawn light leading to a summit tinted orange by the rising sun and the kind of view to the west, over innumerable hazy blue valleys and ridges, that for me typifies the Alps in the early morning. After the Pyramide the going was almost entirely on snow, with some beautifully sculpted arêtes of perfect neve. The views of neighbouring Lyskamm and the more distant giants around Zermatt were superb. We could clearly see the Matterhorn and it was obviously in good condition, having very little snow on it. We went on over the summits to the Parrotspitze where we decided we had done enough for our first day. Turning for home, we romped down the glacier before it got soft enough to be annoying underfoot in the heat of the day. A few miles short of the town there is “internet room” (a converted phone booth a spot, with a convenient lochan for – I stood while Roo sat at the keyboard) Down at the hut I asked the guardian dramatic reflections, that gives the first and searched all the weather websites about the weather forecast while Roo good view of the Matterhorn. The thing we could find. We could not make them consulted various internet sites. The was standing out boldly against a blue agree entirely but gradually a consensus guardian said it was going to stay fine and sky. We began to think we might do it. Roo emerged. This was the start of the so, although some of the internet sites phoned the hut at the foot of the Hornli unsettled weather that we’d been led to disagreed, we began to believe that the Ridge to book places for the night after expect back in Edinburgh. It was going unsettled spell which had originally been our successful traverse (up the Italian, to last, at least around Cervinia. The forecast to arrive in the middle of the week down the Hornli). Matterhorn was not on. might not materialize after all. It was hard to argue with the fine weather over Monte The end of this inflated optimism came We accepted the situation fairly quickly Rosa that afternoon, or with the clear quickly. Well before dinner time we and looked for alternatives. Eventually skies that greeted us the next morning as noticed that cloud was forming round we decided to go west to the Ecrins. I we drove down the Alagna valley headed the Matterhorn. For a while we chose knew the area so we wouldn’t waste time for Cervinia. Roo told me all about bond to believe it was just afternoon cloud, faffing, there was a 4000m peak and there yields as we sped through the maize fields signifying nothing in particular. Then the was bolted climbing in the valleys, and in the lowlands but, as we got nearer whole sky darkened and the rain began. although a long drive it was the nearest Cervinia, he dumped the Mona Lisa on Thunder and lightening opened up. The place where it was realistic to expect that the back seat and the talk turned to final downpour persisted. It was more than a the weather might be better. preparations for the Italian ridge. passing event. We occupied our hotel’s

Contents and to have a picnic lunch, we drove up to credit Roo abandoned his project of the road end above Ailefroide. demolishing the overhang piece by piece and found a safer passage away off to the there were a fair From there we walked up to the Glacier right. After that the rock got rather better “ Blanc hut. The path was steep and hot and we followed our noses, occasionally number of climbers and well populated. Roo’s big yellow coinciding with the single bolts, to the and guides in the Spantik boots attracted attention; until summit. Some abseils and scrambling qualified in Financial Analysis, he can’t took as back to the big yellow Spantiks hut; the presence afford to have one pair of boots suitable which Roo had left as a landmark below for the Himalayas and another for the the start of the route. of the latter led us Alps. Under examination prompted by to believe that the his footwear, he had to confess to having After a rest down at the hut we shouldered climbed Everest. When noticed, I was our packs again and tackled the way up forecast couldn’t asked if I was his father. On the whole, I to our next abode, the Ecrins Hut. The was glad to reach the cool shade of the day got greyer as we went and we were be too bad hut where boots are not worn and age just short of the hut when the rain began. difference is less likely to be remarked The temperature fell and the guardian upon. lit the wood burning stove in the salle a manger. Clouds hid the Barre des Ecrins, “ Next morning we headed up behind the our objective for the next day. But there hut to the foot of the Pointe Cineastes. were a fair number of climbers and guides This is a distinct ridge of rock peaks in the hut; the presence of the latter led us which, when you are on it, feels as to believe that the forecast couldn’t be too We left Cervinia the next morning. separate from its surroundings as the bad. Fortunately the weather was still bad. Cuillin of Skye but which, seen from It was obvious that we had to go. We below, is lost in the greater mass of The guardian gave a speech after dinner. cancelled our booking at the Hornli Hut. outcrops and peaklets leading up to the Neither Roo nor I has good French. Not far down the road, Roo succumbed high summits of Des Agneaux. It is called However we both thought he said the again to the Mona Lisa’s smile and Pointe Cineastes because it was used as forecast was good but that serac fall on resumed his study of the calculation the setting of a film many years ago. We the Barre was a serious problem and of yields. I enjoyed the drive down the set off up a Difficile route described in the that on absolutely no account should we Aosta Valley, then endured the flatlands guide as having one bolt per pitch. I failed climb below the band of seracs which he until, beyond Turin, the hills began again to spot the single bolt at the end of the first indicated on a primitive diagram. Quite to rise on either side. The sun was out pitch but made other arrangements for where he said we should go instead and it looked as if heading west had belaying below an overhang which offered escaped both of us. been the right thing to do. We crossed Roo a 5c or a 6a variant. My stance was the Col Genevre into France and Roo exposed to rockfall, a fact I realised too We both felt tired, ready for a good left the Mona Lisa to her own devices as late when Roo pulled a brick sized lump sleep, but there followed the worst night the peaks of the Ecrins came into view. out of the overhang and dropped it, and in a hut either of us has ever had. The Stopping briefly to buy some guidebooks almost himself, past my left ear. To his snoring and other bodily noises, not all

Contents associated with sleep, were awful. A the interminable zig zags in the path back sense of indignation at the conduct of to the car. Eternally smiling, unmoved by other mountaineers can keep one awake the highs and lows of real life, indifferent more effectively than any black coffee. to our success or failure, the Mona Lisa The 3 am reveille, when it came, was a awaited us. Even Roo could not face For the last day of blessed relief. We were the first away into picking her up until after we’d had a beer “ a cloudy and windy dark, working off our and a shower and a sleep in our gite. our trip we went to anger at being kept awake and leaving the a bolted limestone other trains of head torches far behind. For the last day of our trip we went to a Unfortunately we were forging mindlessly bolted limestone crag in the Vallon de crag in the Vallon ahead and only realised where we were Fournel, a lovely wooded valley near too late – exactly in the area of serac fall Argentiere. The weather was brilliant, the de Fournel, a lovely that the guardian had warned us about. scenery exquisite, the crag was quiet; wooded valley A spell of tired irritability gripped us as we it was a day to be relished. Most of the urged each other away from where we climbing on the three or four pitch routes near Argentiere. were but disputed where the safe path there is quite steep and strenuous, but lay. Meanwhile the parties progressing there are also some slabs where it is The weather was at steady guide’s pace caught us up and possible to adhere to the rock and be in brilliant, the scenery showed the way. The truth of the saying balance (provided you don’t then attempt “the first shall be last” hit home as we took to make a move upwards). Roo resolved exquisite, the crag our place in the rear. that in future he would spend less time in Spantiks and more in 5.10’s. was quiet; it was a Hundreds of meters higher up we more day to be relished or less repeated the lesson. The route up As we drove back to the gite we looked the Barre des Ecrins takes an exposed across the valley at the mountains basking rock ridge. In good weather it is a delight in the late afternoon sun. We were feeling but in mist and in the teeth of a big wind, the benefit of a week of mountain activity after a disturbed night, I had to bring and regretting that we were at the end myself to say that I did not fancy it. Roo of our holiday, not the beginning. The “ was inclined, I think, to go for it anyway sun shone again all the next day too as but acquiesced in my judgment after a we sped along the motorways back to period when we stood around vacillating Geneva. It was easy to suppose that the and getting cold. So we joined the tail end weather and the mountains had conspired of the guided parties who were plodding against us to turn bad just when we up the easy neighbouring dome of the came within reach of our main objectives. Dom des Ecrins. The carefree sunlit Rationally, of course, we all know the snows of Monte Rosa seemed a long way elements and the landscape don’t care in the past as we turned, oppressed by what we do; they are indifferent to us - like a feeling that all this mountain travel was the Mona Lisa’s photo. But when we think JMCS utterly futile, for the long toe bashing walk they are smiling at us, we are enticed down past one hut, then the other, then back.

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