WALKING THE WALKING THE MUNROS

VOLUME ONE: SOUTHERN, CENTRAL AND WESTERN HIGHLANDS by Steve Kew

JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS, OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL Meall Chuaich from the Allt Coire Chuaich (Route 17) www.cicerone.co.uk © Steve Kew 2021 Fourth Edition 2021 CONTENTS ISBN: 978 1 78631 105 4 Third Edition 2017 Second edition 2012 OVERVIEW MAPS First edition 2004 Symbols used on route maps ...... 10 Printed in Singapore by KHL Printing on responsibly sourced paper. Area Map 1 ...... 11 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Area Map 2 ...... 12 All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated. Area Map 3 ...... 15 Area Map 4 ...... 16 Route mapping by Lovell Johns www.lovelljohns.com Area Map 5 ...... 18 © Crown copyright 2021 OS PU100012932. NASA relief data courtesy of ESRI INTRODUCTION ...... 21 Nevis Updates to this Guide Route 1 , ...... 37 While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guide- The Aonachs books as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an Route 2 , ...... 41 edition. While we are not aware of any significant changes to routes or The facilities at the time of printing, it is likely that the current situation will give Route 3 Stob Ban, Stob Choire Claurigh, Stob Coire an Laoigh...... 44 rise to more changes than would usually be expected. Any updates that Route 4 Sgurr Choinnich Mor...... 49 we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone. co.uk/1105/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also Route 5 , Stob Ban, Sgurr a’ Mhaim...... 51 advise that you check information about such things as transport, accom- Route 6 , , Stob Coire a’ Chairn, modation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. ...... 55 The route maps in this guide are derived from publicly available data, Route 7 Sgurr Eilde Mor, Binnein Beag, Binnein Mor...... 59 databases and crowd-sourced data. As such they have not been through the detailed checking procedures that would generally be applied to a published Treig map from an official mapping agency. However, we have reviewed them Route 8 Stob a’ Choire Mheadhoin, ...... 62 closely in the light of local knowledge as part of the preparation of this guide. Route 9 Stob Coire Sgriodain, ...... 66 We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies Ardverikie between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to Route 10 Beinn a’ Chlachair, , Creag Pitridh...... 68 [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Loch Ossian Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL. Route 11 Beinn Eibhinn, Aonach Beag...... 72 Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers Route 12 ...... 75 and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk. Route 13 Carn Dearg, Sgor Gaibhre...... 76 Route 14 Ben Alder, ...... 78 Front cover: Gearr Aonach, Pass of – Stob Coire Sgreamhach (l) and Stob Route 15 Geal Charn, Carn Dearg...... 84 Coire nan Lochan (r) Route 32 Drumochter Etive Route 16 Sgairneach Mhor, , A’ Mharconaich, Route 38 , Beinn nan Aighenan, Glas Bheinn Mhor...... 153 Geal Charn...... 87 Route 39 Stob Coir’ an Albannaich, ...... 158 Route 17 Meall Chuaich ...... 90 Blackmount Route 18 A’ Bhuidheanach Bheag, Carn na Caim...... 92 Route 40 , Meall a’ Bhuiridh...... 160 Atholl Route 41 Stob a’ Choire Odhair, ...... 165 Route 19 ...... 94 Route 20 Carn a’ Chlamain ...... 97 Route 42 , Beinn a’ Chreachain...... 168 Beinn A’ Ghlo Route 43 ...... 172 Route 21 Carn Liath, Braigh Coire Chruinn-bhalgain, Carn nan Gabhar. . . 99 Route 44 , ...... 175 Glen Shee Cruachan Route 22 Glas Tulaichean, Carn an Righ...... 102 Route 45 , Stob Diamh...... 178 Route 23 Creag Leacach, , of Claise, Tom Buidhe, Route 46 Beinn a’ Chochuill, ...... 180 Tolmount, Carn an Tuirc ...... 105 Route 24 Carn a’ Gheoidh, The Cairnwell, Carn Aosda ...... 109 Route 47 , Beinn a’ Chleibh, , . . . . 182 Route 25 An Socach...... 112 The Hills Route 48 Meall Buidhe ...... 187 Route 26 Cac Carn Beag, Carn a’ Choire Bhaidheach, Route 49 ...... 189 Carn an t-Sagairt Mor, , ...... 113 Route 50 Carn Gorm, Meall Garbh, , Meall na Aighean Glen Clova (Creag Mhor)...... 190 Route 27 , ...... 118 Route 51 ...... 194 Glen Esk Route 28 ...... 121 Route 52 Creag Mhor, ...... 197 Mull Route 53 Ben Challum...... 200 Route 29 ()...... 124 Route 54 , ...... 204 Route 55 Meall Ghaordaidh...... 206 Route 30 Beinn a’ Bheithir – Sgorr Dhonuill, Sgorr Dhearg...... 128 Route 56 ...... 209 Route 57 , , An Stuc, Meall Garbh, Glen Coe Meall Greigh...... 212 Route 31 – Meall Dearg, Sgorr nam Fiannaidh...... 132 Route 58 , Meall a’ Choire Leith...... 217 Route 32 , Stob Coire Sgreamhach...... 135 Route 33 Buachaille Etive Mor – Stob Dearg, Stob na Broige ...... 139 Glen Lednock Route 34 – Stob Dubh, Stob Coire Raineach. . . . 144 Route 59 ...... 219 Appin Route 60 ...... 220 Route 35 ...... 145 Route 61 , Beinn a’ Chroin...... 223 Route 36 Sgor na h-Ulaidh...... 148 Route 62 , Beinn Tulaichean...... 226 Route 37 Beinn Fhionnlaidh...... 151 Route 63 Ben More, ...... 231 Loch Earn Route 64 Ben Vorlich (Callander), Stuc a’ Chroin...... 233 Arrochar Route 65 Beinn Bhuidhe ...... 237 Route 66 Ben Vorlich (Inveruglas)...... 239 Route 67 ...... 241 Route 68 , Beinn Ime...... 243 Lomond Route 69 ...... 247

Appendix A Bibliography...... 251 Appendix B Contact details...... 252 Appendix C Index of Munros (alphabetical)...... 254 Appendix D Index of Munros (by height)...... 262

Acknowledgements I am indebted to Beathag Mhoireasan from the Gaelic College in Sleat – Sabhal Mòr Ostaig – for invaluable help with the Gaelic names and pronunciations. Any mistakes or oddities in the handling of these names in the text, however, is entirely my own fault. Thanks also are due to Jean Etherington for helping to keep track of where I was on my travels, and also to the numerous youth hostel wardens and local police with whom I left details of routes. I am also grateful to Ronald Turnbull for his suggestions on the text. The short quote from The Songs of Duncan Ban Macintyre in the section on Beinn Dorain comes from a translation by Angus Macleod, published by Oliver and Boyd for the Texts Society 1952. It is worth getting hold of this book, if only for an extraordinary description it contains of the qualities of the water in a little burn on the east side of Beinn Dorain called the Allt na h-Annait. Above all this was for Tink, who was with me every step of the way.

8 The north ridge of Stob Coire Sgriodain from An Dubh Lochan Walking the Munros – Southern, Central and Western Highlands Area Map 1

Symbols used on route maps A9

A86 A889 cr route cp

Relief cs

alternative route 33 Carn Dearg 34 Sgor Gaibhre 35 Sgairneach Mhor 36 Beinn Udlamain Mharconaich 37 A’ 38 Geal Charn

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SF start/finish point 1000m 900m Ericht Loch direction of route 800m Loch bt bp 700m br summit 600m bs bo bq 25 Geal Charn 26 Geal Charn 27 Carn Dearg 28 Ben Alder 29 Beinn Bheoil Beinn na Lap 30 31 Beinn Eibhinn 32 Aonach Beag wing Munros c o Munro Top 500m bn Area Map 1 sh o

400m cm building 300m co cl 200m A86

Contour lines are drawn at cn 50m intervals and labelled 100m at 100m intervals. bm 0 kilometres 1 2 cu

SCALE: 1:100,000 - 0 miles 1 17 Na Gruagaichean 18 Binnein Mor 19 Binnein Beag Sgurr Eilde Mor 20 Stob Coire Sgriodain 21 22 Chno Dearg Beinn a’ Chlachair 23 24 Creag Pitridh 9 !

R Spean A82 8

Warning 7 6 bu Every walk has its dangers, and those described in this guidebook 5 ,

are no exception. All who walk or climb in the should recognise +

Kinlochleven Loch *

this and take responsibility for themselves and their companions along the 4 3 ) (

way. The author and publisher have made every effort to ensure that the & 2 9 Stob a’ Choire Mheadhoin Stob Coire Easain 10 nan Coirean Mullach 11 12 Stob Ban Sgurr a’ Mhaim 13 14 Am Bodach Stob Coire a’ Chairn 15 16 An Gearanach % information contained in this guide was correct when it went to press, but, 1 except for any liability that cannot be excluded by law, they cannot accept $

responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by any person #

using this book. Loch Leven Loch A82 10km To call out the Mountain Rescue, ring 999 (in the UK) or the interna- A830 Arkaig tional emergency number 112: this will connect you via any available net- 5 miles

work. Once connected to the emergency operator, ask for the police.. A861 Loch Fort William 1 Ben Nevis 2 Carn Mor Dearg 3 Mor Aonach 4 Beag Aonach 5 Mor Sgurr Choinnich 6 Stob Coire an Laoigh 7 Stob Choire Claurigh 8 Stob Ban

Loch Eil

Ballachulish 0 A828 0

10 11 Loch Walking the Munros – Southern, Central and Western Highlands Area Map 2

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0 0 10km10km BlairBlair Atholl Atholl 1 A’1 Bhuidheanach A’ Bhuidheanach Bheag Bheag 15 Creag15 Creag Leacach Leacach 2 Carn2 Carn na Caimna Caim 16 Glas16 Glas Maol Maol 3 Meall3 Meall Chuaich Chuaich 17 Cairn17 of Claise A924 A924 4 Beinn4 Beinn Dearg Dearg R TummelR Tummel 18 Tom18 Tom Buidhe Buidhe LochLoch 5 Carn5 Carn a’ Chlamain a’ Chlamain 19 Mayar19 Mayar PitlochryPitlochry 6 Carn6 Carn Liath Liath 20 Driesh20 Driesh 7 Braigh7 Braigh Coire Coire Chruinn-bhalgain Chruinn-bhalgain 21 Tolmount21 Tolmount RannochRannoch 8 Carn8 Carn nan nan Gabhar Gabhar 22 Carn22 Carn an Tuircan Tuirc 9 Carn9 Carn an Righan Righ 23 CarnKirriemuir23 CarnKirriemuir an t-Sagairtan t-Sagairt Mor Mor 10 Glas10 Glas Tulaichean Tulaichean 24 Cairn24 Cairn Bannoch Bannoch 11 An11 AnSocach Socach 25 Broad25 Broad Cairn Cairn R TayR Tay 12 Carn12 Carn Aosda Aosda A926A926 26 Carn26 Carn a’ Choire a’ Choire Bhaidheach BhaidheachForfarForfar A9 A9 13 Carn13 Carn a’ Gheoidh a’ Gheoidh 27 Cac27 Cac Carn Carn Beag Beag AberfeldyAberfeldy R LyonR Lyon 14 The14 The Cairnwell Cairnwell 28 Mount28 Mount Keen Keen A94A94 A826 A826 A827A827 BlairgowrieBlairgowrie A94A94 A A A92A3923 9 9 A90A90 2 2 12 8 8 13

Walking the Munros – Southern, Central and Western Highlands Area Map 3

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14 15 Walking the Munros – Southern, Central and Western Highlands

Beinn Narnain summit rocks from southeast approach (Route 68) NEVIS

ROUTE 1 Ben Nevis (1344m), Carn Mor Dearg (1220m)

Pronunciation: Ben Nevis; Karn More Jerrack Translation: Venomous Mountain; Big Red Cairn

Start Footpath from , which is stepped and engineered Distance 15km Ascent 1700m Time 7hr Difficulty Demanding route with exposed section (the Carn Mor Dearg arête) that in summer involves some simple (up to 1). Accurate navigation from summit of Ben Nevis is of the Highlands it is not possible to get Scottish hills. Avalanche warnings for essential in poor weather. a signal. Your best chance of getting a specific areas are available on the inter- Maps OS sheet 41; Explorer map 392; Harvey’s Superwalker map signal in many mountain areas may be net at www.sais.gov.uk. Ben Nevis; Area Map 1 high up on the summits, but even here In winter conditions many routes Parking Visitor centre car park or by YHA or at Ben Nevis Inn it may not be possible. may not be possible without strong all-round experience. Hostel YHA Glen Nevis; Independent Glen Nevis Navigation becomes more difficult, B&B/hotel Fort William WHEN TO GO simple scrambles can become techni- Camping Glen Nevis This guide has been written with the cal climbs, daylight is short and dete- Access No stalking in this area; tel 0131 554 0114 summer walker in mind. Summer con- riorating weather can quickly lead to ditions will usually prevail between Arctic conditions. While a covering of May and September, although deep- snow can greatly add to the beauty and lying snow can last into the summer in atmosphere of these mountains, remem- This tough, long route takes you on a spectacular circuit around the Nevis some high places, affecting the safety ber that paths, and other markers horseshoe to reach the highest point in Britain. It takes you through a of otherwise ‘easy’ routes. ‘Winter’ can quickly be obliterated; corniced wonderful variety of mountain terrain and includes some easy scrambling storms are not uncommon in May or ridges, snowdrifts and iced-up rock can on the exposed Carn Mor Dearg arête. It is not the easiest way up September – I have been caught out make simple summer routes slow and Ben Nevis, however, and in poor weather can become a serious and by snow in June! You should always fraught with danger. The Scottish hills demanding expedition. obtain an up-to-date weather forecast should never be underestimated. To paraphrase Dickens: it is the best of hills, it is the worst of hills. The from one of the many specialized fore- Enjoy them safely. Happy magnificent mountain architecture on the north side of Ben Nevis (or just cast services before venturing into the !

36 37 Walking the Munros – Southern, Central and Western Highlands ty Nevis – Route 1 ch Lo er Riv ‘the Ben’ as it is affectionately known) offers one of the most awesome and P 200 300 rails impressive vistas in Britain – a huge and complex cathedral of rock, born h's T Witc of volcanic forces and massive intrusions of granite, relentless weathering A82 B8 and the scouring action of glaciation. It is a place that inspires fear and 006

poetry and excitement. It is a magnet to everyone who loves mountains. But Inverlochy Castle 100

there is also the other Ben Nevis. 200 800 500 A climber’s first experience of reaching the summit on a clear summer’s Allt a' Mhuilinn300 Breac day is likely to come as a severe shock. There are often more people to 400 600 Lach be found here on a Saturday afternoon than in Sauchiehall Street, many Fort William 700 Càrn Beag Dearg of them totally ill-equipped and unprepared for a day on a mountain. The 287 Ben Nevis Inn Aonach Mor usual route from Glen Nevis is now like a motorway cut into the hill. The N 1000 orth 800 Loch Meall Fa plateau itself is frequently covered with litter. Following a major clear-up in ce an t-Suidhe P P CIC hut a P t Carn Mor Dearg 2009 a line of cairns was constructed as markers to and from the trig point SF Castle h on a dog-leg following the safest line across the summit plateau (see text Ridge 1220 visitor centre 1000 900 for bearings). 900 Youth Hostel 500 Ben Nevis 300 Despite all of this, the traverse described here is a wonderful route. Bidein Bad 1100 Tower 1344

na h-Iolaire 900 Winter is definitely the best time to do it, when the tourist hordes are 100 Ridge Càrn Mòr 528 300 200 snuggled up at home in front of their fires, though in winter conditions 1100 Dearg Arête 700 400 R iv Càrn it becomes a much more serious expedition which calls for all-round e 700 r N Dearg 800 e 600 ­mountaineering skills. 200 v i s 500 300 699 400 Ste all Fa Blarmachfoldach lls N P a Start from the visitor centre car park (12299 73088), 100 t 200 557 h from the YHA or from the Ben Nevis Inn (12591 72969). River Kiachnish Route 1 W ater of Nevis The paths from all three join not far up the hill. When the 400 path begins to level out above Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe 500 200 take a left fork. This eventually winds around to reach From the river crossing, climb straight up the heath- the CIC (Charles Inglis Clark) hut beneath the north ery hillside to Carn Beag Dearg. The slope soon becomes face, but after about 1km leave this path and drop quite bouldery. Stay on the crest of the ridge all the way to steeply down heather slopes to the Allt a’ Mhuilinn. This Carn Dearg Meadhonach (17602 72672). There is a can be crossed without difficulty at 15497 73792. lower path that traverses the west side of these hills to This point can also be reached by a path from emerge below Carn Mor Dearg, but the best views are Torlundy, which has the advantage of shortening your to be had higher up – not only of the magnificent north encounter with the tourists. (If you prefer to approach the face of Ben Nevis, but also of the dozens of gullies etched hill from this side, start from the North Face Car Park, into the flanks of Aonach Mor across the valley to the which is signposted from the A82 in Torlundy. Don’t try east. From the summit of Carn Dearg Meadhonach drop to access the Allt a’ Mhuilinn via the golf course, as your down over the pink/grey granite boulders and then climb presence will not be appreciated.) again to the summit of Carn Mor Dearg at 17753 72161 (4hr 20min from the YHA).

38 39 Walking the Munros – Southern, Central and Western Highlands From here you drop down to the south with quite THE AONACHS a substantial loss of height before the ridge eventually curves round to the southwest. Stay on or very close to the crest of the arête (which is little more than a line of ROUTE 2 piled-up blocks). It is narrow but not difficult or intimi- Aonach Mor (1221m), Aonach Beag (1234m) dating in summer weather. Soon the ascent begins, past an abseil post, which marks a possible line of descent into Coire Leis. Then comes a steep climb over large Pronunciation: Ernoch More; Ernoch Bake andesite boulders to the summit of Ben Nevis at 16687 Translation: Big Ridge; Little Ridge 71275. There is an intermittent path and a line of rusting posts which in very poor weather may be a useful guide Start Footpath from the east end of the car park through Nevis to the top (5hr 20min). gorge Follow the tourist trail back to the valley. It is essen- tial in poor visibility to find the right line of descent. There Distance 15km have been many fatalities where parties have either stum- Ascent 1240m bled over the northeast face or mistaken one of the Glen Time 7hr Nevis gullies for the way off. If in any doubt walk 150m Difficulty Accurate navigation is essential, and in poor visibility can be from the summit trig pillar on a grid bearing of 231°, then notoriously difficult on these hills follow a second grid bearing of 282° for just over 1km Maps OS sheet 41; Explorer map 392; Harvey’s Superwalker map to reach the top of the zigzags and safer ground. Don’t Ben Nevis; Area Map 1 forget to add the necessary adjustment for magnetic vari- Parking Car park at the end of Glen Nevis ation to these grid bearings. In 2006 the variation was Hostel YHA, Glen Nevis; Independent Glen Nevis Ben Nevis from Carn just under 3°W. Follow the Mountain Trail down through B&B/hotel Fort William Mor Dearg arête the zigzags to rejoin the outward route. Camping Glen Nevis Access Hillphones tel 01397 732362

These two grand old men of the Scottish hills have been somewhat humbled by the ski-lift developments on the northern flanks of Aonach Mor, but approached from Glen Nevis they have lost none of their rugged appeal. There is an air of seriousness about them. Like many grand old men they need to be approached with care. Aonach Mor is a granite mountain, being part of the Outer Granite of Ben Nevis. Aonach Beag is mostly composed of schists. There has been extensive geological folding hereabouts. Impressive crags on both the east and west sides of these hills, which have been eroded into a series of deep gullies and scree slopes, limit the lines of escape in bad weather. The huge bulk of the Ben Nevis horseshoe fills the western horizon.

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