CONTENTS

TABLE OF WALKS vi

LIST OF REGIONAL MAPS x

1 THE BEST OF WALKING IN 1

1 The Best Family Walks ...... 1 7 The Walks with the 2 The Best Walks for Seeing Wildlife . .2 Best Attractions ...... 6 3 The Best Mountain Walks...... 3 8 The Best Restaurants for Dinner . . . .7 4 The Best Hill Walks ...... 4 9 The Best Places for Lunch ...... 8 5 The Most Scenic Walks ...... 5 10 The Best Hotels ...... 8 6 The Best Coastal Walks ...... 6 11 The Best Budget Accommodations...... 9

2 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO SCOTLAND 10

1 Before You Go...... 10 It’s Easy Being Green ...... 20 2 When to Go...... 12 5 Walking Safety ...... 21 What to Bring: The Walker’s 6 Guided Walking Tours ...... 23 Checklist ...... 13 Frommers.com: The Complete 3 Getting There & Getting Around . .13 Travel Resource ...... 23 4 Choosing a Walk ...... 17

3 SUGGESTED ITINERARIES 25

1 ScenicCOPYRIGHTED Perthshire Getaway ...... 25 3 Deeside MATERIAL & Strathspey in 1 Week . . .28 2 The Historic South in 1 Week...... 26 4 Loch Ness & the North in 1 Week ...... 30

002_159897-ftoc.indd2_159897-ftoc.indd iiiiii 33/5/09/5/09 11:10:5011:10:50 PPMM iv 4 EDINBURGH & WALKS 33 by Colin Hutchison Essentials ...... 34 Kelvin Walkway ...... 53 Yellowcraigs Beach to Mugdock Country Park North Berwick ...... 37 to Carbeth ...... 56 Scald Law—The Pentland Hills . . . .40 Dumgoyne Hill by Killearn ...... 59 Arthur’s Seat & Holyrood Park . . . . .43 Queen’s View & the Whangie ...... 63 Falkirk Wheel...... 47 Conic Hill ...... 66 Falls of Clyde...... 50 Sleeping & Eating ...... 69

5 SOUTHERN SCOTLAND WALKS 72 by Colin Hutchison Essentials ...... 72 The ...... 90

OMMER’S BEST WALKING TRIPS IN SCOTLAND IN TRIPS WALKING BEST OMMER’S Dundonald Glen & Peebles ...... 93 the Smugglers Trail ...... 75 Selkirk to Abbotsford House...... 96 Alloway, Ayrshire ...... 78 Melrose to Harestanes ...... 100 Portpatrick to Killantringan Coldingham—St. Abb’s Head— Lighthouse ...... 81 Eyemouth ...... 104 Wood of Cree ...... 84 Sleeping & Eating ...... 107 Loch Trool ...... 87 CONTENTS FR 6 TAYSIDE & FIFE WALKS 109 by Felicity Martin Essentials ...... 110 ...... 128 Perth & Kinnoull Hill...... 112 Glen Tilt...... 131 Heritage Trail ...... 115 Seaton Cliffs...... 135 Fife Coastal Path ...... 118 & Driesh...... 138 Knock of Crieff ...... 121 Rannoch to Corrour ...... 141 The Hermitage...... 124 Sleeping & Eating ...... 144

7 ARGYLL & THE WEST HIGHLANDS WALKS 147 by Felicity Martin Essentials ...... 148 Cruachan ...... 162 Callander Crags & Tobermory...... 165 Bracklinn Falls...... 150 Kilmartin Glen...... 168 ...... 153 Carradale ...... 170 Arrochar Alps ...... 156 Kinlochleven ...... 173 Glen Nant...... 159 Sleeping & Eating ...... 177

002_159897-ftoc.indd2_159897-ftoc.indd iivv 33/5/09/5/09 11:10:5011:10:50 PPMM 8 THE NORTHEAST HIGHLANDS WALKS 180 v

by Felicity Martin FROMMER’S BEST WALKING TRIPS IN SCOTLAND Essentials ...... 182 ...... 197 Loch an Eilein ...... 183 Morrone ...... 201 Meall a’ Bhuachaille ...... 186 Dufftown to Craigellachie ...... 204 Cairn Gorm & ...... 189 Spey Bay ...... 208 Bennachie ...... 192 ...... 211 The Vat & ...... 194 Sleeping & Eating ...... 214 Getting to Little Ord ...... 195

9 THE NORTHERN HIGHLANDS WALKS 217 by Patrick Thorne Essentials ...... 218 The Start of the Great The Duke of Sutherland Glen Way ...... 233 Monument ...... 221 Sandwood Bay...... 237 ...... 224 Lael Forest ...... 240 Dog Falls, ...... 227 The Tourist Path ...... 243 CONTENTS Fyrish Monument ...... 230 Sleeping & Eating ...... 246

APPENDIX A: FAST FACTS, TOLLFREE NUMBERS & WEBSITES 249

1 Fast Facts: Scotland ...... 249 2 Toll-Free Numbers & Websites. . . 256

APPENDIX B: LANGUAGE & PLACE NAMES 261

INDEX 263

General Index ...... 263 Restaurant Index ...... 271 Accommodations Index...... 270

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Walk Distance

Edinburgh & Glasgow 1 Yellowcraigs Beach to North Berwick 9.6km (6 miles) round-trip 2 Scald Law—The Pentland Hills 14km (8.7 miles) round-trip

3 Arthur’s Seat & Holyrood Park 5.6km (3.5 miles) round-trip 4 Falkirk Wheel 5.6km (3.5 miles) round-trip 5 Falls of Clyde 4.6km (2.9 miles) round-trip 6 Kelvin Walkway 8.4km (5.2 miles) round-trip 7 Mugdock Country Park to Carbeth 8.2km (5 miles) round-trip 8 Dumgoyne Hill by Killearn 4.2km (2.6 miles) round-trip

9 Queen’s View & the Whangie 4.8km (3 miles) round-trip 0 Conic Hill 4km (2.5 miles) round-trip Southern Scotland

1 Dundonald Glen & the Smugglers Trail 6.2km (3.9 miles) round-trip

2 Alloway, Ayrshire 7.2km (4.5 miles) round-trip

3 Portpatrick to Killantringan Lighthouse 7.2km (4.5 miles) round-trip

4 Wood of Cree 1.7km (1 mile) round-trip

5 Loch Trool 14km (8.5 miles) round-trip 23km (14 miles) round-trip from visitor 6 The Merrick center; 13km (8 miles) round-trip from Bruce’s Stone car park. 7 Peebles 5.3km (3.3 miles) round-trip 8 Selkirk to Abbotsford House 11km (7 miles) one-way 9 Melrose to Harestanes 33km (20 miles) one-way 0 Coldingham—St. Abb’s Head—Eyemouth 16km (10 miles) round-trip

Tayside & Fife 1 Perth & Kinnoull Hill 11km (6.9 miles) round-trip 8km (5 miles) one-way (round-trip 2 Loch Leven Heritage Trail by bus) 3 Fife Coastal Path 14km (8.7 miles) one-way 4 Knock of Crieff 7.5km (4.7 miles) round-trip 5 The Hermitage 6.8km (4.25 miles) round-trip 6 Ben Lawers 11km (7 miles) round-trip 7 Glen Tilt 9.7 or 14.7km (6 or 9.2 miles) round-trip 8 Seaton Cliffs 5.6km (3.5 miles) round-trip

002_159897-ftoc.indd2_159897-ftoc.indd vvii 33/5/09/5/09 11:10:5011:10:50 PPMM Star Page Difficulty Best Time to Go rating number

Moderate Jun.–Sept. 37 Moderate to Late summer, when the hills are a sea of purple heather. 40 Strenuous Early morning to escape the crowds; the summit is also a Easy 43 fantastic spot to enjoy the sunset. Easy Jun.–Sept. 47 Easy Sept.–Nov. 50 Easy Mid-summer to relax with a picnic. 53 Easy Spring for the wildflowers and reduced crowds. 56 Summer evenings for spectacular sunsets over the Arrochar Strenuous 59 Alps. Summer evenings for spectacular sunsets over the Arrochar Moderate 63 Alps. Moderate Great on any clear day, but crowded in the summer. 66

Easy to In August the old village of Dundonald holds its fair. 75 Moderate Spring or autumn to avoid peak season and enjoy the Easy 78 colors. Easy to Best in the summer, but start early to have the trail to 81 Moderate yourself. In the spring, bluebells carpet the forest floor and bird- Easy 84 watchers may spot rare migratory visitors. Easy to Jun.–Sept. 87 Moderate Any clear day; in winter, be equipped for snow Strenuous 90 conditions. Easy Especially rewarding during the autumn colors. 93 Easy to Spring and autumn to avoid the busiest period. 96 Moderate Strenuous Colors are best in late spring and early autumn. 100 Moderate to Mid- to late summer for the wildflowers, bracing sea air, 103 Strenuous and surfing.

Moderate April to June for spring colors. 112 Easy At dawn to see the most wildlife. 115 May to July to enjoy tempting beaches and colorful Moderate 118 gardens. Moderate October to mid-November for autumn colors. 121 Easy January and February for snowdrops and waterfalls. 124 Strenuous June to August for mountain flowers. 128 October and November for autumn colors and to hear red Moderate 131 deer rutting. Easy May to July for nesting seabirds and wildflowers. 135 continues

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Walk Distance

Tayside & Fife (continued) 9 Mayar & Driesh 14km (8.5 miles) round-trip 19km (12 miles) one-way (round-trip 0 Rannoch to Corrour by train) Argyll & West Highlands 1 Callander Crags & Bracklinn Falls 9.3km (5.8 miles) round-trip 2 Ben Lomond 13km (8.1 miles) round-trip 3 Arrochar Alps 14.2km (8.9 miles) round-trip 4 Glen Nant 4km (2.5 miles) round-trip 5 Cruachan 16km (10 miles) round-trip 6 Tobermory 4km (2.5 miles) one-way (round-trip by bus) 7 Kilmartin Glen 6.4km (4 miles) round-trip 8 Carradale 12km (7.5 miles) round-trip 9 Kinlochleven 10km (6.5 miles) round-trip

The Northeast Highlands 5km (3.1 miles) + optional 1.6km (1 mile) 1 Loch an Eilein round-trip 2 Meall a’ Bhuachaille 8.4km (5.25 miles) round-trip 3 Cairn Gorm & Ben Macdui 24km (15 miles) round-trip 4 Bennachie 8.9km (5.5 miles) round-trip 1.1km (0.7 miles) and 2.9km (1.8 miles) 5 The Vat & Muir of Dinnet round-trip 6 Lochnagar 20km (12.5 miles) round-trip 7 Morrone 12km (7.5 miles) round-trip 8 Dufftown to Craigellachie 7.2km (4.5 miles) one-way (round-trip by bus) 9 Spey Bay 16km (10 miles) round-trip 0 Creag Meagaidh 21km (13 miles) round-trip The Northern Highlands

1 The Duke of Sutherland Monument 9.7km (6 miles) round-trip

2 An Tellach 18km (11 miles) round-trip

3 Dog Falls, Glen Affric 6km (3.8 miles) round-trip 4 Fryish Monument 5.6km (3.5 miles) round-trip 5 The Start of the Great Glen Way 6.4km (4 miles) round-trip 6 Sandwood Bay 13km (8 miles) round-trip

7 Lael Forest 2.9km (1.8 miles) round-trip

8 The Ben Nevis Tourist Path 16km (10 miles) round-trip

002_159897-ftoc.indd2_159897-ftoc.indd vviiiiii 33/5/09/5/09 11:10:5111:10:51 PPMM Star Page Difficulty Best Time to Go rating number

Strenuous July to September for heather blooming. 138 Strenuous June to August for moorland flowers. 141

Moderate October and November for autumn colors and waterfalls. 150 September, as the crowds dwindle and autumn colors start Strenuous 153 to appear. Strenuous Make an early start to get a space in the car park. 156 March and April for spring wildflowers; October for Easy 159 autumn colors. Strenuous May to July for long days. 162 Easy May and June, to avoid summer crowds. 165 Easy September and October, when the glen is quieter. 168 Moderate July and August for lingering on the beaches. 170 April and May for spring colors and views of snowy Moderate 173 mountains.

Easy Summer evenings for quiet sunset walk. 183 Moderate July and August for heather blooming. 186 Strenuous May to June for the longest hours of daylight. 189 Moderate July and August for heather blooming. 192 Easy Early morning to have the Vat to yourself. 194 Strenuous Arrive early to ensure a parking place. 197 Moderate September and October for autumn birch trees. 201 Easy April to June for fresh spring woodlands. 204 Moderate July and August for osprey and other wildlife. 208 Strenuous September and October for autumn colors. 211

The waterfall is most impressive in spring as the snow Moderate 221 melts. Between June and October, to enjoy the long daylight Strenuous 224 hours. The route is especially stunning in the autumn with fall Moderate 227 foliage. Moderate May to June, for the long, sunny spring days. 230 Moderate Late summer to pick raspberries and blackberries. 233 In late summer for the long days, reduced insect pests, Moderate 237 and the warm sea temperature. The woodland is full of autumn color during October Easy 240 and November. June to October to make the best of daylight hours and Strenuous 243 hopefully good weather.

002_159897-ftoc.indd2_159897-ftoc.indd iixx 33/5/09/5/09 11:10:5111:10:51 PPMM LIST OF REGIONAL MAPS

Scenic Perthshire Getaway ...... 26 Southern Scotland ...... 73 The Historic South in 1 Week ...... 28 Tayside & Fife ...... 111 Deeside & Strathspey Argyll & the West Highlands . . . . .149 in 1 Week ...... 29 The Northeast Highlands ...... 181 Loch Ness & the North The Northern Highlands ...... 219 in 1 Week ...... 31 Edinburgh & Glasgow ...... 35

Map Legend

Trail Mountain Peak Point of Interest Alternate Trail Overview Freeway Trailhead

Major Road Picnic Spot

Campground Minor Road Washroom Lake & River Parking

Park Information/Ranger Station

Land Drinking Water

Waterfall

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