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a bay with curves Thankfully, as I walked deeper into the marsh, the crowds began to thin out. The sound of the wind in the reeds got louder. The muddy ocean bay’s salty smell grew thicker. Crabs scrambled around in the gray mud below the wooden footbridge. By the time I climbed up to Yongsan Observatory, I began to realize why people, especially photographers, come here from all over the country. Once on high ground, you can see lily pad-shaped clumps of green marsh and colorful red and orange plants growing on the tidal flats, all surrounded by layers of mountains. Best of all was the view of the river snaking through the marsh into the tidal flats. Like the coveted female body type that Koreans call the “S-line” (think Pamela Anderson: curvy from top to bottom), the river forms a perfect “S” shape.

autumn migration It’s views like the one from Yongsan Observatory that draw over 2.8 million visitors per year. In 2006, Suncheon Bay became the first Korean coastal wetlands to become registered on the list of Ramsar Wetlands. The designation guarantees the wetlands conservation and sustainable utilization into the future. Today, the protected area is made up of 21.6 km of mudflats and 5.4 km of reed beds. It’s IN SEARCH Of MOTHER home to many species of migratory birds such as the hooded crane, as well as other rare aquatic birds such as the crested ibis, white heron, and NATURE’S S-LINE black-faced spoonbill. In the fall, many migratory birds call the bay Suncheon Bay boasts some of Korea’s best wetlands and stunning nature home. One such bird is the Eurasian curlew, Written and photographed by Peter DeMarco which rests in the bay for about two weeks during its almost 5,000 km journey from Australia to Siberia. hen I first got to Suncheon Bay and a two-story globe encased in glass, a tour bus- As for me, my day was coming to an end. Like started to make my way down the packed parking lot, and, of course, the a migrating bird, it was time for me to move on. boardwalk through the reeds ubiquitous souvenir shops. The sun had gone down, and the observation W deck was nearly empty. A crescent moon hung amongst what seemed like a million other All that was missing were park employees tourists, all I could think was, “Is this it?” walking around in mascot-like costumes of cute over the pinkish-blue sky. A fisherman motored The entrance to the wetlands had the look and endangered birds. Even the park visitors were his boat up the river to its dock. Waves of wind feel of a theme park: a trolley bus complete with dressed more like they had just come from crashed against the sea of reeds below. It was as an oversized kitschy flying bird hood ornament, church—high heels, skirts, suits, and parasols— if I was standing in the middle of some idyllic people queuing up for a boat tour of the bay as than as if they were going hiking into one of postcard photo. All I could think was, “This is it.” if it were a roller coaster ride, an eco center with Korea’s most attractive wetlands.

42 SEOUL November 2010 travel & culture SEOUL 43 travel

Reed boardwalk: the touristy bit

PlaceS To eaT in Suncheon T. (061) 741-2200 WebSiTeS and nuMberS of inTereST Suncheon has a number of cheaper lodging options Suncheon City: www.suncheon.go.kr Blank that are mainly “love motels.” Walk out of the train Suncheon Station Tourist Information: (061) 749- (061) 727-0160 station and turn right. Head down the street about two 3107 Jorye-dong minutes and you will see the sign for this motel. Rooms Suncheon Bay Information: (061) 749-3006, www. Serving up some of Suncheon’s best Western-style are 30,000—60,000 won per night. suncheonbay.go.kr food, this hip, sleek-looking restaurant and café is a favorite with the local foreign community. Try the Ivy Motel Jorye-dong honey chicken or grilled mushroom sandwich (11,000 oTher PoinTS of inTereST won), then wash it down with a berry mix or mango T. (061) 724-7878 Chances are that if you make a weekend of your trip smoothie (5,300 won). Still hungry? Order up a piece This is another standard love motel, but in the newer to Suncheon, you will have more time to visit other of homemade tiramisu to top it off (5,000 won). part of the city. Room rates run from 40,000 to 60,000 Won. sites. Fortunately, the city offers many things to do Palma Orirang and see. Here are just a few: (061) 721-5271 Naganeupsong folk Village Jorye-dong T. (061) 749-3347 (English spoken) Naganeupseong folk Village T. (061) 749-3347 If duck is your dish, then you have to try the “duck Take bus No. 63 or 68 from the main bus terminal. www.nagan.or.kr bulgogi” (30,000 won) at this Korean favorite. Be sure Take a step back in time and sleep in a traditional During the Joseon Dynasty in 1397, General Kim to bring a few friends because it will be hard to finish Korean house for a night. This folk village boasts 29 Bin-kil ordered his troops to build walls around this off this rather large meal if there are just two of you. traditional houses with a total of 79 rooms. A room for village to protect the residents from the Japanese one costs 30,000 won, and a double is 50,000 won. San Antonio Latin Bistro invasion. Today, you can see thatched-roof houses (061) 724-2234 Call in advance to make a reservation. similar to those from that era, along with fortress Jorye-dong walls. For a little slice of Mexico and Spain in a friendly GeTTinG There atmosphere, look no further than San Antonio. Owner Songgwangsa Temple T. (061) 755-0107 José Rosal was born and raised in Spain before By bus: There are 21 buses a day from Seoul’s Express www.songgwangsa.org immigrating to Canada. He met his Korean wife while Bus Terminal (Gangnam) to Suncheon. The travel time This is one of the three most important temples in in college in Hawaii and has been living in Korea for is about 5 hours. Korea. A must-see for any Buddhism buff. Another 10 years now. The menu has many Mexican favorites By train: Four Saemaeul-class and 11 Mugunghwa- popular but lesser-known temple in the area is like burritos and quesadillas (8,000—10,000 won). class trains leave Seoul’s Yongsan Station each day Seonamsa. However, if you are lucky enough to be there on a for Suncheon. Direct journeys take a little under five Friday, then José will cook up a real Spanish paella hours. Suncheon City Tour (minimum of four people, order in advance). Be sure By plane: There are 8 daily flights to Yeosu Airport (a www.suncheon.go.kr to try the sangria too. Delicioso! 40 minute drive to Suncheon)—travel time 50 minutes. New Samwoo Travel Agency: (061) 742-5200 To Suncheon Bay: take bus No. 67 from the train or Price: 9,000 won bus station directly to the bay—about 25 minutes. This bus tour runs from Monday to Friday and goes Where To STay A taxi from the bus station to the bay will cost about to all the major sites. There is also a more expensive 10,000 won. “Eco Tour” that operates on the weekend. See Bali Motel website for more info. Jogok-dong Tel 02 722 5622 fax 02 722 5623 Opening hours 11:30 a.m.~11:30 p.m.(Closed on Sunday) N°85 Susong-dong Jongno-Gu Seoul Korea 44 SEOUL November 2010 Somerset Palace 1F, Exit 1 or travel 6 from & culture Anguk Station,SEOUL 45Line 3