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Ardnamurchan - Wild Scotland in Spring

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Ardnamurchan - Wild Scotland in Spring Ardnamurchan - Wild Scotland in Spring Naturetrek Tour Report 20 - 27 May 2018 Atlantic Puffin Juvenile Stonechat Report and images by Neil McMahon Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Ardnamurchan - Wild Scotland in Spring Tour participants: Neil McMahon (leader) with six Naturetrek clients Summary The second of our ‘Ardnamurchan - Wild Scotland in Spring’ tours began with rain on the first full day but thereafter the weather became increasingly very warm and sunny - up to 23°C, which is warm for this part of the world! The seemingly late spring for the UK paid off for us this year with a late emergence of the Scottish Midge, and apart from a couple of short periods, we were mostly unaware of these wee beasts! The mammals were in good form with multiple Otter sightings at three separate sites along the shores of Loch Sunart and almost daily sightings of foraging Pine Martens, including two coming to food put out especially for them at our Glenborrodale accommodation. We saw four species of deer, both Grey and Common Seals, and revelled in good views of Bottlenose Dolphins. The birds also put on an excellent show with plenty of eagles of both species (11 different individuals on one memorable day), a brief encounter with the Strontian American Black Duck, three species of diver, and woods full of singing Willow Warblers. Cuckoos were both audible and visual and we encountered plenty of Tree, Rock and Meadow Pipits, Northern Wheatear, Whinchat and Stonechat in their typical habitats. A day out on a boat visiting the Treshnish Isles and Staffa was a highlight for many, with excellent close views of breeding seabirds, including all four species of auk, terns, skuas, Manx Shearwaters, Shags and Kittiwakes. The first of the more localised butterflies were just emerging as we were leaving and we managed good views of Chequered Skipper and the first hatches of dragonflies and damselflies. Our excellent accommodation at the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse provided a superb location, both for finding wildlife close at hand and being central to many of the key wildlife areas on the peninsula. Comfortable and well- appointed rooms, home-cooked meals and beautiful countryside provided the perfect backdrop to explore this relatively wild and beautifully remote area of Scotland. Day 1 Sunday 20th May During the early afternoon everyone was accounted for and we drove to the Ardnamurchan for the second “Ardnamurchan – Wild Scotland in Spring” tour of the year. During our journey deep to the west we encountered wet and breezy weather conditions. Comfort stops were made at Loch Lomond and Tyndrum and we stopped briefly at Glenrigh to espy a single Red Squirrel coming to the feeders there. We pressed on, and following the Corran Ferry crossing, arrived at the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse at 7.15pm. Birds encountered along the way were few, but included Eider, Black Guillemot and Raven. The conditions appeared not to be conducive for a night drive, so we settled in for the evening after our welcome evening meal and were rewarded with great views of a Pine Marten wolfing down the jam sandwiches and peanuts just outside the sitting room window! © Naturetrek August 18 1 Ardnamurchan - Wild Scotland in Spring Tour Report Day 2 Monday 21st May After rain for most of the night, dawn saw no reprieve, and in fact, it rained all day until evening time! However, this was forecast so we had some contingencies for such conditions. Any suggestion of an early walk was quickly quashed, so after a splendid Scottish breakfast, we left our comfortable accommodation and drove west, immediately seeing a Roe Deer close at hand. The roadside views of the Loch were checked for Otter in the pouring rain with a negative result, but we managed to locate a menacing White-tailed Eagle sat atop a ridge, the low cloud swirling round it conspiring to enhance the immensity of its bulk and presence. We located plenty of Red Deer and drove into Kilchoan where we located Shag, Twite and all three hirundines hunting for insects around the trees. Two Cuckoos showed briefly on some wires. Despite the inclement conditions, we continued westwards to the Point of Ardnamurchan. Scanning a freshwater loch on the way provided views of an immature Whooper Swan but rather bedraggled Meadow Pipits, Skylarks and Wheatears were altogether closer and easier to appreciate. Moving up to the Point provided us with an opportunity to sample the most westerly coffee and cake on the British mainland! Some of us took in a tour of the lighthouse whilst the remainder watched passing seabirds which included a couple of Great Skuas, but Manx Shearwater, Fulmar, Kittiwake, Shag and auks made up the majority. A couple of Common Seals and a Red-throated Diver were sighted before we drove back inland. Our light lunch was taken in the van at Ormsaigbeg with inspiring views towards Sunart and Mull. With the rain still heavy, a strategic direction was to visit the Ardnamurchan Visitors Centre with its café, shop, natural history exhibition and mini-cinema playing the Heart of Scotland DVD! Here seed feeders attracted House Sparrows and a female Yellowhammer and birds in the well-grazed fields next to the Centre included a flock of seven very smart Golden Plovers. At 5pm we left the Centre and checked Glenmore Bay and found a fishing Otter a little way out. After some 10 minutes it disappeared from view around some rocks – the first Otter of the trip is always special and, happily, everyone managed decent views. We then dawdled home to our nearby accommodation and a well-deserved cuppa before our home-cooked evening meal. By the time we had completed our check lists, the weather had improved, and the sun was shining on Loch Sunart. A walk down the track proved successful with more Red Deer, a Treecreeper showing well, Curlew and Grey Wagtail and what was probably a Daubenton’s Bat flying around by the water. However, the star of the show was undoubtedly the Otter fishing in the shallows, very much “Ring of Bright Water” stuff as the lowering sun produced reflective gold and pink on the water surface as it dived repeatedly for Butter Fish. By the time we walked back up to the Bunkhouse, the Pine Marten from the night before was greedily eating the food put out for exactly that purpose. A little later a second, slightly larger animal appeared, and they cavorted together beautifully. Both animals provided outstanding views as they systematically ate their way through the banquet! After such an active evening a night drive seemed unlikely to deliver additional opportunities and so was put off to another evening. 2 © Naturetrek August 18 Ardnamurchan - Wild Scotland in Spring Tour Report Day 3 Tuesday 22nd May Our 6.30am walk took us to Aperitif Point overlooking Loch Sunart. Mammals were absent, but birds active around the Lock included Black Guillemot, Red-breasted Mergansers, Common Tern, Raven, Hooded Crow, Greenshank, Curlew and Common Sandpiper. Breeding Lesser Redpoll and Siskins song-flighted from on high and common warblers and Spotted Flycatchers remained mostly hidden, but a Treecreeper showed well again. After breakfast we drove the track higher up to see the upper reaches of Glenborrodale and managed telescope views of Red Deer, Fallow Deer and Père David’s Deer. We then drove east and just short of Salen we watched two Otters for quite some time feeding in a small bay there. On then to Loch Shiel but it was rather blowy on the pier there, so we navigated to nearby Kentra, where some scanning across the mini estuary provided views of Ringed Plover, Dunlin and Greenshank. A distant White-tailed Eagle flew north. Alternative viewing from the neck of the estuary was good for Red-breasted Mergansers and a smart pair of Red-throated Divers. On our drive back through Acharacle John saw a Red Squirrel run alongside the road and disappear into cover. A café in the village was the next agenda item, after which we drove the track down to the car park servicing Tioram Castle. A Wood Warbler showed rather well by the car park but the singing Spotted Flycatchers mostly remained hidden. Rock Doves were on the castle ramparts, more Red-breasted Mergansers patrolled the tidal wash and two adult White-tailed Eagles lumbered around the wooded slopes opposite. We ate our roll and lunchbox snacks and checked out a nearby area which was busy with insects including Four- spot Chaser dragonfly, Large Red Damselfly and Green-veined White butterfly. The next item on our itinerary was a visit to the Garbh Eilean Wildlife Hide where a good number of Common Seals were hauled up on the rocks. Birds were few and far between, but we managed close views of Hooded Crows and watched the antics of Grey Herons, Oystercatchers and Common Terns. Later that afternoon we returned to the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse and rested and rallied in anticipation of a busy following day. Day 4 Wednesday 23rd May Our early morning walk was again to our viewpoint overlooking Loch Sunart. Highlights included a fly-over White-tailed Eagle and two Otters feeding together, mostly around rocky islands at the head of the bay. Seven Crossbills flew over in a flock and later an eighth bird was showing reasonably well atop a tall Sitka Spruce. This was our boat excursion day, so after breakfast we drove to Kilchoan to pick up our vessel. En route to the pier we saw plenty of Red Deer and another White-tailed Eagle.
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