Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands

Naturetrek Tour Report 1 - 8 August 2016

Report and images by Marcus John

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands

Tour participants: Marcus John (leader) with 11 Naturetrek clients

Summary

We enjoyed a successful week in Ardnamurchan with sightings of several iconic species, often close to our comfortable base in the Glenborrodale Centre. Pine Martens came to visit us on six separate occasions and we had several close encounters with White-tailed Eagles. On an early morning drive, we saw three Otters together in a nearby bay, feeding close to shore. We spent a memorable day on board the “Laurenca” as we sailed across to Mull and the Cairns of Coll, before visiting the Isle of Muck. We appreciated the unspoilt beauty of the Isle of Carna, where wildlife can thrive in the absence of any permanent human inhabitants. Throughout the tour, we visited a variety of sites across the entire peninsular, often pausing to scan for wildlife and when the rain came down, stopping at some excellent cafes! One of the features of our time in Ardnamurchan were close encounters with family groups of Harbour Porpoise, a beautiful little cetacean that is resident in Loch Sunart,

Day 1 Monday 1st August

Glasgow - Glen Coe - Corran Ferry - Glenborrodale We met in Glasgow and set off on the long drive to Ardnamurchan. After enjoying views of Loch Lomond and refreshments at the Green Welly Boot in Tyndrum, we drove the length of Glen Coe, considered one of the most spectacular and beautiful places in Scotland. Soon after, we crossed Loch Linnhe at Corran Ferry (where Black Guillemots breed) and continued through Strontian, along Loch Sunart to Glenborrodale.

Several people stayed up late to watch for Pine Martens from the living room window and were rewarded when one adult came to feed on the peanuts for several minutes.

Day 2 Tuesday 2nd August

Ardnamurchan Point - Kilchoan - Ockle Most of us met before breakfast to walk down to Glenborrodale Bay in the warm sunshine. We saw several Grey Herons and were able to pick out the greyish juveniles from the smart adults. A solitary Greenshank was the only wader present, though several Common Terns were feeding in the deeper water. We continued down the track to Aperitif Point, where we enjoyed views across one of the most beautiful bays in Scotland.

After an excellent breakfast, we drove all the way out to Ardnamurchan Point, stopping to look for Otters at Port Na Croisg and Camas Fearna but to no avail. The mountainous bulk of Ben Hiant looked superb in the morning sunshine but only Common Buzzards and Ravens were on the wing.

We walked out past the Victorian lighthouse to spend half an hour looking out to sea. We found several groups of Common Guillemot sitting on the sea, lots of adult Gannets flew past, their plumage gleaming in the sunlight. We also saw our first Kittiwake and Arctic Tern. We enjoyed a coffee break at the lighthouse coffee shop before returning to Kilchoan to eat lunch.

In the afternoon, we drove out past the hay meadows around Swordle Farm to the little settlement of Ockle. Next to the road was a big herd of Red Deer, mostly females with lots of fawns, some small enough to retain the

Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands Tour Report

pale spotting on their flanks. We found a mixed finch flock and later saw a Twite perched on a roadside wire - a typical bird of the West Highlands. On the way back to the centre, we stopped to photograph some impressive Highland Cows, then visited the Ardnamurchan Visitor Centre, where a large flock of waders included Oystercatcher, Curlew and Golden Plover.

After a delicious three course dinner, everyone stayed up to wait for the Pine Martens. At precisely 10:30pm, an adult broke cover, grabbed a sandwich and ran straight off again. Thankfully, it soon reappeared and made a series of visits over the next thirty minutes, providing excellent views.

Day 3 Wednesday 3rd August

Ardtoe - Castle Tioram - Acharacle - Garbh Eilean It was a wet morning as we headed east towards the little villages Salen and Acharacle, towards our ultimate destination of Castle Tioram. We had not driven very far before we stopped to admire pair of Red-throated Divers swimming on Loch Sunart, still in their smart breeding plumage.

We drove through Acharacle and out across Kentra Moss, a large area of raised peat bog. It was still drizzling so we continued on to Ardtoe and walked out on the old stone jetty. Frank was in front and had a split second view of Otter as it ran off around a rock, too quick for anyone else to see! On way back across Kentra Moss, we stopped to scan the intertidal mud where Oystercatcher, Curlew and Greenshank were feeding, while a flock of Greylag Geese flew over.

When we arrived at Castle Tioram, the rain had stopped and we were able to walk across the tidal causeway to the castle itself. This was the ancestral home of the Clanranald and an important strategic base, which dominated coastal trade routes. We found four Common Seals feeding in the shallow water and three Goosander further out.

We returned to the Blue Teapot Cafe in Acharacle Cafe for excellent coffee and cakes, before checking for birds on Loch Shiel. The rain had returned so we decided to head back to Glenborrodale to eat our lunch. It was a welcome surprise to find that our cook, Jane, had prepared homemade tomato soup to warm us up!

In the afternoon we drove out to the wonderful hide at Garbh Eilean. Here we saw lots of Common Seals (and one large Grey Seal) loafing on the low rocks; they were very reluctant to move, even as the tide rose over them! We spent a memorable hour in the hide, quietly enjoying the comings and goings of the animals and birds.

After dinner, we walked down to Aperitif Point, where a Common Tern sat on close buoy and Gannets flew over as the sun finally broke through the clouds. After half an hour, an Otter briefly surfaced but only a few of us saw it before it disappeared - rather frustrating!

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Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands Tour Report

Day 4 Thursday 4th August

Sanna Bay - Achateny - Camas Nan Geall After an early morning walk and another cooked breakfast, our first stop of the day was the jetty at Glenmore Bay, where we learnt a little about the wave power project that is being developed in this area. We found several fresh Otter spraints on the jetty itself; Otters use prominent features as territory markers, including man-made structures,

Next we stopped to scan Port na Croisg and Camas Fearna; after several minutes, we were delighted to find an Otter feeding on the far side of the bay. Although somewhat distant, everyone had decent views as the Otter periodically surfaced for a few seconds before making prolonged dives, which showed it was probably feeding on smaller prey like Butterfish.

After a coffee break at Kilchoan community centre, we drove out to Sanna, across a strange landscape comprised of a volcanic ring formation of rocky ridges. Although hidden away in this remote corner of the highlands, the white sand beach at Sanna has often featured in lists of the best beaches in the UK. As we walked along the track to the dunes, two White-tailed Eagles flew out above the high ridge to our left, affording good views, though they soon flew behind the crags and out of sight. We ate our sandwiches on the beach, then enjoyed a lovely walk in brilliant sunshine. The turquoise sea lapped the white sand, contrasting with the smooth, black rocks. The pasture behind the sand dunes was covered with blue Harebells and white Grass of Parnassus.

In the afternoon we down the road to Achateny, where we saw more Red Deer hinds with fawns. We stopped to look for butterflies but the strong breeze meant just one each of Dark Green Fritillary and Scotch Argus; the latter is a real highland speciality. We were running rather late when we stopped to check for raptors at Camas Nan Geall. Our perseverance was rewarded when two White-tailed Eagles flew right overhead in bright sunshine. We had amazing views as they twisted in mid-air to fend off the local Ravens and Buzzards. Watching the eagles being mobbed gave us a true idea of their immense size; it was a dramatic end to a memorable day!

Day 5 Friday 5th August

Loch Sunart - Mull - Cairns of Coll - Isle of Muck We arrived at Laga Bay at 9am to meet our skipper, Andy Jackson, for a day out on his boat, the “Laurenca”. The weather was dry with just a light breeze as we set off along Loch Sunart. We soon had very close views of dozens of Common Seals as they lay out on the rocky skerries in the middle of the loch. A group of Porpoises approached quite close to the boat, the first of several encounters with this enigmatic little cetacean. As we entered the Sound of Mull, we began to see our first seabirds; small groups of Common Guillemot were sitting on the sea, while Gannets and Fulmars flew overhead.

We arrived in Bloody Bay, on the north coast of Mull, to look for the White-tailed Eagles that breed here. After some searching, we found this year’s youngster, now fully fledged and as big as an adult. However, it was partially hidden behind low rocks and impossible to see properly - until eventually it flew out past the boat! Elated, we headed out across the open sea to the Cairns of Coll.

Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands Tour Report

The Cairns are a group of rocky islets just off the north-east tip of Coll, where the sheltered waters attract both Common and Grey Seals, who were joined by hundreds of Shags. As we headed further east towards Muck, we came across a big raft of Manx Shearwaters, numbering at least 300. A truly pelagic species, they return to Britain to breed before undertaking a long, circular migration to spend the winter in the seas off Argentina and Brazil. They are highly adapted for life at sea and we felt lucky to have seen them at such close quarters. Several more flew past as we continued our voyage, skimming low over the water with a seemingly effortless flight.

We enjoyed our visit to the Isle of Muck, the smallest of the “Small Isles” with a population of just 37. After a pleasant break in the tea rooms, we went for a walk and had an entertaining conversation with the owner of the island, as he drove his ancient tractor along the main track. It is a place where time seems to have stood still and has a unique atmosphere.

As we sailed back across the Sea of the Hebrides, we passed close to Ardnamurchan Point and had wonderful views of the famous lighthouse, before retracing our passage along Loch Sunart and back to Laga Bay.

Day 6 Saturday 6th August

Camas Nan Geall - Isle of Carna - Achateny A few of us rose at dawn to look for Red Deer stags. August is the start of the stalking season, so they are very wary and return to the high hillsides soon after daybreak. On the way out to Kilchoan, we saw four younger males but on the way back, an impressive stag was standing close to the Achateny road, allowing some quick photographs before it headed into cover.

We were driving slowly back along the coast close to Glenborrodale, when we saw something moving in a small bay. We were delighted to find a big dog Otter feeding here; after a couple of minutes, it climbed out and disappeared from view. We just leaving when we heard a splash; looking over the roadside foliage, we saw two more Otters, only a few metres away! They dived twice for fish before they too left the water and disappeared into cover.

After our cooked breakfast, we spent all morning on a visit to the Isle of Carna. We motored slowly around the island, where we saw two more Harbour Porpoise and were able to approach very close to groups of Common Seals as they sat on low rocks. We slowly entered Loch Teacuis and paused to enjoy the tranquillity of this remote place. We greatly enjoyed learning more about the loch and its marine life from Andy, whose local knowledge and passion for the area make him a compelling companion.

The rain began to fall as we landed at the jetty. Most of us sheltered in the first cottage but Alison and Martin set off with Andy to walk up onto the ridge that overlooks a shallow channel where otters are often seen. After eating our sandwiches, the rest of us scanned the water from outside the cottage. Alas, no otters could be found as the rain worsened, so we returned to the shelter of the cottage and a hot drink!

Back at the Glenborrodale Bunkhouse, we had a couple of hours to dry off and fortify ourselves with hot drinks and Jane's excellent home baking. Despite the persistent rain, we went for a short drive down the road to Achateny, enjoying more good views of Red Deer.

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Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands Tour Report

At 10pm we set off on our night drive. Soon after departing, we had brief views of two Pine Martens and a Hedgehog (an increasingly rare sight in parts of Britain). Given a strengthening wind and heavy showers, it was no surprise that owls were not flying. However, we did see several really impressive stags, including two that stood within 20 metres of vehicle.

Day 7 Sunday 7th August

Ardnamurchan Point - Swordle Bay It was a surprise start to our last full day when a Pine Marten came to finish off the peanut butter at 7:45am, providing a rare daylight sighting and a great photo opportunity! The storm that had been much heralded by the forecasters duly arrived and the wind was gusting to 50mph as we set out for Ardnamurchan Point. When we arrived, we were amazed by the sight of huge waves crashing onto the rocks, the sea foaming white all along the shore. We walked around in front of the lighthouse to the lookout shelter. It was a dramatic to watch Gannets, Manx Shearwaters and Kittiwakes as they battled into the gale force winds. After braving the weather, we were glad to retreat to the cafe for coffee and cakes.

Next, we drove to the northern coast of the peninsula to visit sheltered Swordle Bay. We first walked across to the area above the beach where regular excavations have revealed significant Bronze age remains. Closer to the sea is the site of a Viking ship burial; the rocks used to support the small boat are all that remains of the historic find, though it is an evocative location. We had planned to eat lunch on the white sand beach but heavy rain forced us to retreat to the vehicle and return to Glenborrodale. Once again, we hung out our wet clothes and enjoyed lunch with a hot drink and yet more home-baked cakes!

In the late afternoon, we went for a last walk down to the bay during a short break in the torrential rain. We greatly enjoyed our last dinner and thanked Jane for the delicious meals that she had provided throughout our stay. As it was our last night, most of us stayed up for a last look at the Pine Martens, who had been the real stars of the whole tour!

Day 8 Monday 8th August

Corran Ferry - Glen Coe - Glasgow We set off immediately after breakfast for the long drive back to Glasgow. We were again lucky with the Corran Ferry, driving straight on just before it departed. We enjoyed views of Glen Coe and stopped again for a break in Tyndrum. We arrived back in Glasgow in plenty of time for everyone to catch their various trains and planes.

It had been a successful week despite the wet weather. The undoubted highlights were the close views of Pine Marten and the drama of White-tailed Eagles being mobbed over Ben Hiant! Everyone appreciated the wildlife and special scenery that Ardnamurchan has to offer and we also enjoyed each other’s company. The Glenborrodale Bunkhouse was welcoming and comfortable and Jane ensured that we ate very well throughout our stay. Ardnamurchan is a remote yet beautiful place that retains a true sense of wilderness; time spent here will live long in the memory.

Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands Tour Report

Species Lists

Birds (=recorded but not counted; H = heard only) August

Common name Scientific name 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 European Hedgehog Erinaceus europaeus 1 2 European Rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus 1 3 Red Deer Cervus elaphus 150 1 60 50 12 4 Pine Marten Martes martes 1 1 2 1 3 1 5 Harbour Porpoise Phocoena phocoena 2 6 8 6 Harbour (Common) Seal Phoca vitulina 1 24 140 60 7 Grey Seal Halichoerus grypus 1 2 1 8 Eurasian Otter Lutra lutra 2 1 4 9 Wood Mouse Apodemus sylvaticus 2

Birds

Greylag Goose Anser anser 10 11 45 3 2 1 Canada Goose Branta canadensis  2 Mute Swan Cygnus olor   3 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos       4 Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula 8 5 Common Eider Somateria mollissima 1 6 Common Merganser (Goosander) Mergus merganser 5 12 7 Red-throated Diver Gavia stellata 2 1 8 Northern Fulmar Fulmarus glacialis 3 9 Manx Shearwater Puffinus puffinus 370 6 10 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 1 1 11 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea        12 Northern Gannet Morus bassanus 12 6 2 40 4 14 13 European Shag Phalacrocorax aristotelis 5 2 1 200 30 10 14 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo 2 1 2 10 2 15 White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla 4 1 16 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo 6 4 3 5 2 17 Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus 2 30 40 10 10 10 5 18 Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus 2 19 European Golden Plover Pluvialis apricaria 18 20 Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata 12 5 2 21 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia 1 3 1 1 1 22 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 1 1 23 Black-legged Kittiwake Rissa tridactyla 2 2 8 24 Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus 2 2 2 25 Common Gull Larus canus 2 2 2 26 Great Black-backed Gull Larus marinus 1 6 2 27 European Herring Gull Larus argentatus        28 Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus 1 2 29 Common Tern Sterna hirundo       30 Arctic Tern Sterna paradisaea 1 31 Great Skua Stercorarius skua 2 32

Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands Tour Report

August

Common name Scientific name 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Common Guillemot Uria aalge 15 50 33 Black Guillemot Cepphus grylle 2 1 1 1 34 Tawny Owl Strix aluco H 35 Rock Dove Columba livia  36 Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus 1 1 37 Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus 1 38 Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major 2 1 1 1 2 39 Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius 2 2 2 2 40 Hooded Crow Corvus cornix 6 10 10 10   41 Northern Raven Corvus corax 12 6 4 20 12 3 42 Coal Tit Periparus ater        43 Eurasian Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus        44 Great Tit Parus major        45 Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis 1 46 Sand Martin Riparia riparia     47 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica       48 Common House Martin Delichon urbicum      49 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus H H H 50 Goldcrest Regulus regulus H 51 Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes 1 52 Common Blackbird Turdus merula 1 1 53 Song Thrush Turdus philomelos 1 1 2 1 54 European Robin Erithacus rubecula 1 4 1 2 1 2 55 European Stonechat Saxicola rubicola 2 2 1 1 56 Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe 4 5 57 White-throated Dipper Cinclus cinclus 1 58 House Sparrow Passer domesticus 10 2 59 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 2 60 Pied Wagtail Motacilla alba yarrellii       61 Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis       62 Eurasian Rock Pipit Anthus petrosus 1 2 2 2 63 Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs        64 65 Twite Linaria flavirostris 1

Common Linnet Linaria cannabina 10 66 Common Redpoll Acanthis flammea 1 3 4 67 European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis 10 1 68 Eurasian Siskin Spinus spinus 1 69 Butterflies

Large White, Pieris brassicae Green-veined White, Pieris napi Painted Lady, Vanessa cardui Scotch Argus, Erebia aethiops

Other fauna

Common Toad, Bufo bufo Common Frog, Rana temporaria Moon Jellyfish, Aurelia aurita

Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands Tour Report

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