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BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS Ginal Asfardevelopment Goes © Lonely Planet Publications 390 lonelyplanet.com BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS •• Highlights 391 HIGHLIGHTS too, as hotel prices are lower and the cruise Devil’s Bay ( p405 ) Climb up, over and ships are fewer. British Virgin Islands around sea boulders and grottoes to this sheltered sand crescent HISTORY White Bay ( p409 ) Drink at the jovial beach Columbus & the Pirates that birthed the rum-soaked Painkiller On Christopher Columbus’ second trip to Anegada ( p410 ) Leave the world behind the Caribbean in 1493, Caribs led him to an on this remote island of hammocks and archipelago of pristine islands that he dubbed What happens when steady trade winds meet an island-flecked channel with tame currents lobster dinners Santa Ursula y Las Once Mil Vírgenes (St and hundreds of protected, salt-rimmed bays? Every mariner worth his sea salt sails there – RMS Rhone ( p398 ) Scuba dive on this fa- Ursula and the 11,000 Virgins), in honor of which is how the British Virgin Islands (BVIs) became a sailing fantasyland. More than 40 mous shipwreck off Salt Island a 4th-century princess raped and murdered, islands bob in the group, welcoming visitors with an absurd amount of beach. Set Sail ( p416 ) Charter a boat and sail to along with 11,000 maidens, in Cologne by out islands like Norman and Cooper marauding Huns. Tortola is the archipelago’s father. It holds most of the population and commerce, and By 1595, the famous English privateers Sir its demeanor is a little bit stern as a result. That doesn’t mean it won’t let its hair down at ITINERARIES Francis Drake and Jack Hawkins were using a full-moon party or out on the bay windsurfing. Virgin Gorda is the BVIs’ beauty, beloved One Day Take one of the quick and fre- the Virgin Islands as a staging ground for by movie stars, millionaires and yachties. Somehow she’s maintained her innocence, with a quent ferries to Virgin Gorda, splash attacks on Spanish shipping. In the wake of Drake and Hawkins came French corsairs and clutch of exceptional national parks. Jost Van Dyke is the jovial island, where a man named around the Baths and Devil’s Bay, grab Dutch freebooters. All knew that the Virgin Foxy is king and ‘time flies when you ain’t doin’ shit,’ as the T-shirts proclaim. Not-like-the- a meal and drink before calling it a day. One Week Spend a day or two beaching Islands had some of the most secure and unat- others Anegada floats in a remote reef; if you’re looking to get away from it all, this atoll has in Tortola’s Cane Garden Bay area, then tended harbors in the West Indies. Places like a hammock waiting. Then there are the sprinkling of out islands – some uninhabited, some ferry to Virgin Gorda to hike, snorkel Sopers Hole ( p399 ) at Tortola’s West End with just a beach bar, some with shipwrecks to dive on. You’ll need your own boat to reach and swim for a couple more. Spend two and the Bight at Norman Island ( p404 ) are them, but since the BVIs are the world’s charter-boat capital, you’re in luck. days slowing waaay down on either Jost legendary pirates’ dens. or Anegada. Take a day-sail tour to the While the Danes settled on what is now While the islands are British territories, there’s little that’s overtly British. The BVIs are out islands. the US Virgin Islands (USVIs), the English quite close to, and intermingled with, the US Virgin Islands, though the BVIs are more vir- Two Weeks Island hop: hit the four main had a firm hold on today’s BVIs. The middle ginal as far as development goes. islands, plus nearby St Thomas and St island of St John remained disputed territory John in the US Virgin Islands, by ferry. until 1717, when the Danish side claimed it Or get adventurous and charter a boat for good. The Narrows between St John and FAST FACTS to explore them all (including the out Tortola has divided the eastern Virgins (BVIs) islands). from the western Virgins (USVIs) for more Area 59 sq miles On a Budget Yes, it can be done. Camp at than 250 years. Capital Road Town, Tortola Brewers Bay on Tortola, White Bay on Country code x284 Jost or Anegada Reef Hotel on Anegada. Queen Elizabeth & the Offshore Buy low-cost take-away foods at Road Companies Departure tax US$5 by sea (cruise ship passengers pay US$7); US$15 by air (plus US$5 secu- Town Bakery on Tortola, Christine’s Following WWII, British citizens in the is- rity tax) Bakery on Jost and Dotsy’s Bakery on lands clamored for more independence. In Famous for Yacht charters, the Baths, Pusser’s Rum, local resident Richard Branson Anegada. Spend your days on beaches 1949 BVIs citizens demonstrated for a rep- Language English (free) or at national parks (admission resentative government and got a so-called US$3). Use ferries for transportation. presidential legislature the next year. By 1967 Money US dollar (US$); US$1 = €0.65 = the BVIs had become an independent colony UK£0.51 CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO of Britain, with its own political parties, a Official name Virgin Islands, but it’s Reliably balmy with gentle trade winds, the Legislative Council and an elected Premier referred to as ‘British Virgin Islands’ to BVIs’ temperature averages 77°F (25°C) in (with elections every four years). Queen distinguish it from the neighboring US winter (December through March) and 83°F Elizabeth II also made her first royal visit to BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS Virgin Islands (28°C) in summer (June through August). the BVIs in 1967, casting a glow of celebrity People British Virgin Islanders Though the islands get less than 50 inches of on the islands that they enjoy to this day. rain each year, count on brief tropical show- Royal family members still cruise through Phrase Limin’ (pronounced ‘lime-in’; ers between July and November. Hurricane every few years. means ‘relaxing’) season peaks in August and September In the mid-1980s the government had the Population 23,500 (mostly the latter). shrewd idea of offering offshore registration Visa Unnecessary for citizens of most The BVIs’ high travel season is from to companies wishing to incorporate in the Western countries; see p415 December 15 to April 15. November, early islands. Incorporation fees – along with December and May are good times to visit tourism – now prop up the economy, with BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS 392 BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS •• The Culture 393 0 10 km about 750,000 companies currently regis- BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS 0 6 miles tered. Locals laughingly call their booming 64º40’W 64º20’W financial services industry ‘legal money laun- dering,’ and while that’s not quite the case (although odd, one must admit, that of the 750,000 companies on the books, only 10,000 of them actually trade in the BVIs), it does Cow Wreck Anegada create an unusual island economy infused Bay Loblolly Bay with foreign accountants, trust lawyers and Flamingo Red Pond Flash of investment brokers. Pond Beauty Captain Auguste Pomato Setting George Airport The Point Point Settlement THE CULTURE Despite their name, apart from little touches like Cadbury chocolate, the culture of the 18º40’N British Virgin Islands is West Indian to the 18º40’N core. The population is a mix of professional people working in financial services, folks working the tourist trade or raising livestock, and adventurers whose biochemistry is in- tricately tied to the seas. The official ethnic A T L A N T I C O C E A N breakdown is 87% black, 7% white and the remainder mixed, East Indian or other. The BVIs have one of the Caribbean’s most stable economies. The per capita GDP is US$46,400 – higher than the UK, USA and Sweden, according to UN statistics. In general, B r i t i s h North V i r g i n I s l a n d s Sound most people live quite comfortably. ( U K ) Necker Some visitors complain the locals (par- Drakes Island Island Seal Prickly ticularly on Tortola) are unfriendly. The Dogs Virgin Gorda Pear Island Peak Leverick demeanor is not rude so much as reserved. (1359ft) Bay Cockroach Gun Bitter End Yacht Club Island Creek The Dogs Guana Great Virgin ARTS Island Camanoe Savannah Gorda Diamond Cay Little Jost Scrub Bay National Park Island Fungi (foon-ghee, also an island food made of Van Dyke Little Josiah's Marina Cay Little Dix Bay Jost Van Green Cay Camanoe cornmeal and fish) is the local folk music. It Bay Virgin Gorda Airport Great Dyke Great Little Brewer's Bay Trellis Bay uses homemade percussion like washboards, Tobago Harbour Spanish White Harbour Tortola Terrence B Lettsome Town Sandy Cane International Airport Copper Mine Little Bay Cay ribbed gourds and conch shells to accompany Garden See Road Town Trunk National Park Tobago Beef Bay Bay Map (p397) Island The Baths & Devil's Bay a singer. The full-moon festivals at Aragorn’s Carrot Bay Hodges Fallen Smuggler's Road Studio ( p402 ) and Bomba’s Shack ( p401 ) are Apple Bay Harbour Creek Jerusalem Cove Ginger Great West Sage Mtn Cooper good places to hear it live. Thatch (1716ft) Nanny Island End Cay Island Wreck of the Quite a few artists work on the islands. Frenchmans RMS Rhone Congo The Little NarrowsCay Aragorn’s Studio hosts a local collective Thatch Cay Thatch Dead Chest Cay Island Sir FrancisChannel Drake Island Salt of potters, sculptors, coconut carvers and Peter Island more; they sell their wares on site.
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