BRITISH ginal asfardevelopment goes. quite closeto,andintermingled with,theUSVirgin are Islands,thoughtheBVIs more vir- arethem, butsincetheBVIs theworld’scharter-boat capital,you’re inluck. with justabeachbar,someshipwrecks todive on.You’llneedyour ownboattoreach a hammockwaiting. Then there are thesprinklingofoutislands–someuninhabited, some others Anegadafloatsinaremote reef; togetawayfromitall,thisatollhas ifyou’re looking and‘timeflieswhenyouain’tdoin’shit,’astheT-shirtsFoxy isking proclaim.Not-like-the- clutch ofexceptionalnationalparks. JostVan isthejovial Dyke island,where amannamed by movie stars,millionaires andyachties. Somehowshe’smaintainedherinnocence,witha Virgin oroutonthebaywindsurfing. a full-moonparty beauty,beloved GordaistheBVIs’ its demeanorisalittlebitstern asaresult. That doesn’tmeanitwon’tletitshairdownat islands bobinthegroup,welcomingvisitorswithanabsurdamountofbeach. which ishowtheBritishVirgin becameasailingfantasyland.More Islands(BVIs) than40 and hundreds ofprotected, salt-rimmed hisseasaltsailsthere bays?Every – marinerworth What happenswhensteady channelwithtamecurrents tradewindsmeetanisland-flecked Islands Virgin British 390 © LonelyPlanetPublications While theislandsare Britishterritories, there’s littlethat’sovertly British.The are BVIs isthearchipelago’sfather. Itholdsmostofthepopulationandcommerce,

„ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ FAST FACTS

Western countries;see p415 Visa Population Phrase People Virgin Islands distinguish itfromtheneighboringUS referred toas‘BritishVirgin Islands’to Official name UK£0.51 Money Language Famous for rity tax) Departure tax Country code Capital Area means ‘relaxing’) Unnecessaryforcitizens ofmost 59sqmiles Limin’(pronounced‘ USdollar(US$);US$1=€0.65 RoadTown,Tortola British Virgin Islanders English 23,500 Yacht theBaths,Pusser’s charters, Rum,localresident Branson Richard Virgin Islands,butit’s

US$5bysea(cruiseshippassengerspayUS$7);US$15air(plussecu- x 284 lime

-in’; lonelyplanet.com December andMay are good times tovisit December 15toApril15. November, early (mostly the latter). peaksinAugustand Septemberseason ers JulyandNovember. between Hurricane rain each year,countonbrieftropical show- theislandsgetThough lessthan 50inches of August). through (28°C) insummer(June winter March) (Decemberthrough and83°F BVIs’ temperature averages 77°F(25°C)in Reliably balmywithgentle tradewinds, the CLIMATE &WHENTOGO HIGHLIGHTS ITINERARIES „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „

that birthedtherum-soaked Painkiller Bay White sheltered crescentsand tothis boulders andgrottoes around sea Bay Devil’s The BVIs’ travel is from high season US$3). Use ferries fortransportation. (free) oratnationalparks(admission . Spendyourdaysonbeaches Bakery onJostandDotsy’sBakery on Town Bakery onTortola,Christine’s Buy low-costtake-away foodsatRoad HotelJost orAnegadaReef onAnegada. Brewers on onTortola,White Bay Bay On aBudget islands). to explore themall(includingthe out Or get adventurous andcharter aboat John inthe USVirgin Islands,byferry. islands, plusnearbyStThomasand Two Weeks islands. out or Anegada. Take tourtothe aday-sail days slowingwaaaydownoneitherJost and swimforacouplemore. Spendtwo ferry toVirgin Gordatohike, snorkel area, GardenBay then in Tortola’sCane One Week anddrinkbeforea meal callingit a day. grab Bay, around theBaths andDevil’s quent ferries toVirgin Gorda,splash One Day out islandslike Norman and Cooper Sail Set mous shipwreck Salt off Island RMS Rhone dinners lobster on thisremote islandof hammocksand Anegada ( p416 ) Charter to aboatandsail Take oneof thequickandfre- ( p410 theworldbehind ) Leave ( p409 ) Drinkatthejovial beach Spendadayortwobeaching Islandhop:hitthefourmain ( p405 ) Climbup,over and ( p398 ) Scubadive onthisfa- Yes, at itcanbedone. Camp BRITISHVIRGINISLANDS••Highlights tourism – nowpropupthe economy,with islands. Incorporation fees –along with to companieswishing toincorporate inthe shrewd ideaof offering offshore registration every few years. Royal familymembers through stillcruise on theislandsthattheyenjoyto this day. the BVIs in1967,castingaglowof celebrity Elizabeth IIalsomadeherfirst royal visitto fouryears).(with electionsevery Queen CouncilandanelectedLegislative Premier of withitsownpoliticalparties,a Britain, the BVIs hadbecomeanindependentcolony presidential legislature thenextyear. By1967 resentative government and gotaso-called 1949 BVIs citizensdemonstrated forarep- lands clamored formore independence. In Following WWII,British citizensintheis- Companies Queen Elizabeth&theOffshore than 250 years. from thewestern Virgins (USVIs)formore Tortola hasdividedtheeastern Virgins (BVIs) StJohn and for good.TheNarrowsbetween until 1717,whentheDanishsideclaimedit island of StJohn remained disputed territory had afirmholdontoday’sBVIs. Themiddle the USVirgin Islands(USVIs),theEnglish legendary pirates’ dens. atNormanIsland( and theBight p404 ) are Sopers Hole( p399 ) atTortola’sWestEnd tended harbors intheWestIndies.Placeslike Islands hadsomeof themostsecure andunat- Dutch freebooters. AllknewthattheVirgin Drake andHawkins cameFrench corsairs and onSpanish shipping.attacks Inthewake of the Virgin groundfor Islandsasastaging Francis Drake andJack Hawkins were using Huns. marauding along with11,000maidens,inCologneby a 4th-centuryprincessrapedandmurdered, Ursula andthe11,000Virgins), inhonorof OnceMilVírgenes UrsulaSanta yLas (St archipelago of pristineislandsthathedubbed in1493, the ledhimtoan Caribs On Christopher tripto Columbus’ second Columbus &thePirates HISTORY ships are fewer. too, ashotel pricesare lowerandthecruise In themid-1980s the government hadthe onwhatisnow While theDanessettled By 1595,thefamousEnglish privateers Sir

391 ISLANDS VIRGIN BRITISH BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS 392 RTS IGNILNS BRITISH VIRGINISLANDS Thatch ὈὈ ὈὈ BRITISH VIRGINISLANDS Cay Tobago Little Island St James Little 18º40’N Island St James Great Tobago Great Congo Cay U SVirgn I sland Cruz Bay ( US) ὈὈ ὈὈ White National Park Bay St John Thatch Great Harbour Great

Smuggler's The Narrows The 18º20’N Booby Van Dyke Little Jost Rock Cove Thatch Island Little Harbour Little Ὀ Apple Bay Cay Sandy Carrot Bay Leduck End West Island Cay Frenchmans Garden Brewer's Bay Cane Bay Sage Mtn (1716ft) Flanagan Island 64º40’W Carvel Sir Francis Drake Rock Tortola

Channel Cay Nanny V irgnIslad & TheIndians Pelican Island Map (p397) See RoadTown Harbour Josiah's Road B ritsh Bay Dead Chest ( UK) C ARIBENS A Island A TLNICOE Camanoe Hodges Creek Wreck ofthe Little lonelyplanet.com RMS Rhone Camanoe Island Great Salt International Airport Terrence BLettsome Trellis Bay Cooper Island Island Beef 64º40’W Island Scrub Cockroach Island Trunk Bay The Dogs Jerusalem Fallen The Baths&Devil'sBay Savannah Dogs Seal Town Spanish Bay lonelyplanet.com Virgin GordaAirport National Park Copper Mine Little DixBay (1359ft) Gorda Virgin Pomato Cow Wreck

Peak Flamingo Point Drakes Island

Bay Pond 0 0 Bay Leverick Sound North Setting Point Creek Anegada Gun Pear Island Prickly Captain Auguste George Airport

BRITISHVIRGINISLANDS••TheCulture Red Pond Red Island Necker Bitter EndYachtClub 64º20’W Loblolly Settlement The Bay Beauty Flash of 6 miles 10 km 18º40’N ticularly onTortola)are unfriendly.The named Long John Silver. treasure andaone-legged, parrot-toting gent esis, it’sarip-roaring pirate yarnabout buried ( p404 Whatever thegen-). Orsothestorygoes. uncle inspired of himwithtales NormanIsland wrote foot intheregion. Robert LouisStevenson written actuallyset byaScotsmanwhonever in . SpiceShop ( goods atSunnyCaribbee p399 ) local painters theircolorful sell andartisans more; theirwares they sell onsite. Many of potters, and sculptors, coconutcarvers Aragorn’s Studiohostsalocalcollective good placestohear it live. Studio ( p402 ) andBomba’sShack ( p401 ) are a singer. Thefull-moonfestivals atAragorn’s ribbed gourdsandconch shellstoaccompany homemade percussionlikeuses washboards, cornmeal andfish) isthelocalfolkmusic.It Fungi ARTS demeanor isnotrudesomuch as reserved. most peoplelive quite comfortably. Ingeneral,Sweden, accordingtoUNstatistics. thantheUK,USAand is US$46,400–higher GDP economies.Thepercapita most stable remainder mixed, Indian East or other. breakdown is87%black,7%white andthe ethnic Theofficial tricately tiedtotheseas. and adventurers biochemistry isin- whose working thetouristtradeorraisinglivestock, folks people workinginfinancialservices, core. Thepopulationisamixof professional British Virgin IslandsisWestIndiantothe like chocolate, Cadbury theculture of the Despite theirname,apartfromlittletouches THE CULTURE brokers. investment with foreign trustlawyers accountants, and create anunusualislandeconomyinfused of themactuallytradeintheBVIs), itdoes 750,000 companiesonthebooks,only10,000 odd,onemustadmit,thatof(although the dering,’ andwhilethat’snotquite thecase industry‘legalmoneylaun- financial services tered. calltheirbooming Locals laughingly about 750,000companiescurrently regis- Quite afew artistsworkontheislands. Some visitors complainthelocals(par- The BVIs have oneof theCaribbean’s The BVIs’ mostfamousliterary workwas

Treasure Island ( foon 64º20’W -ghee, alsoanislandfoodmadeof-ghee, 18º20’N (1883) after his sea (1883)after hissea going

393 BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS ISLANDS VIRGIN BRITISH BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS sion, mangrove destruction andalack of urbanization,deforestation, soilero- Rapid Environmental Issues frog populate theislands. quitous, andnumerousspeciesof toadand islands. Anolesandgecko lizards are ubi- mon green the iguanafoundthroughout long rockiguanasof Anegadaandthecom- and not-so-smalllizards,including the6ft- slither around,alongwithahost of small snake species(noneof which are poisonous) of soundtothetropicalenvironment. Afew colorsisland, addingbright andasymphony wild pigs,horses, cats and dogs. of goatsandburros,someislandshave islandhasaferalVirtually every population orintentionallyaccidentally introduced. Few landmammalsare natives; mostwere Wildlife the islands,particularly on Tortola. rooms growwild(andare consumed)on for ‘bush medicine.’ Psychoactive mush- of different rootsandherbsasingredients 30 varietiesof wild orchid. palmettoandmorehogany, lignumvitae, than peakssupportwetforestmountain withma- treesand sea-grape dominate thecoast,while systems. Mangrove swamps,coconutgroves a nature lover entirely between different eco- in theislands,andashortdrive cantransport no rivers andvery few freshwater streams. inthecolonialera. TheBVIsplantations have were strippedforsugar,cottonandtobacco orthird-growth; theislands timber issecond- are subtropicalforests.tains dense Allof the slopes,themoun- ously onimpossiblysteep whereat 1716ft.Except perch precari- houses pointintheislands on Tortolaisthehighest which isaflatcoralisland.Sage Mountain The oneexceptioniseasternmost Anegada, thatdominatemountains theislandinteriors. dryforestsplain, coastal andthesteepcentral with three geographical zones:thecoastal lava andigneousrock,which created islands of volcaniceruptionsthat built uplayers of cays. Thegroupowesitsexistence toaseries The BVIs consistof more than40islandsand The Land ENVIRONMENT 394 More than200 speciesof birdinhabitthe Islanders alsogrowandcollecthundreds ofThousands tropicalplantvarietiesgrow RTS IGNILNS • niomn BRITISH VIRGINISLANDS••Environment ing theDogsandFallen Jerusalem, which protects 15 parksandsixislands,includ- Soup andstew cast- are Generally, staples. FOOD &DRINK formations at the Baths. tional parksthatincludesthegiantboulder coast of Virgin Gordaisacollectionof na- are excellent dive sites. Theentire southwest ( the formationof the November 1sostocks can replenish. tures isnotallowedfromAugust15through situation. Currently, crea- fishingforthese (a localshellfish)andlobster inaprecarious cisterns. rainwater cilities shutdown,forcingislanders touse fa- strikes, poweranddiesel islandslose lackwater.would seriously Whenastorm waterof andwithoutthemtheislands sea vent theislandsfrom soiling themselves. scrambletopre-ment plantsinaconstant growth anddensityhave kept sewage treat- like population Christmasornaments.High slopes hangonmountain oped, andhouses and is usually served withfishand gravy. and isusuallyserved withatangy often served mango chutney. withcurriedmeat, fishorpoultry,stuffed lar dish isroti( is ble) soupisanothertraditionaloffering, as made fromcassava). foot withahotpepperand bines oxtail, chicken, porkandcalf’s beef, or stews, such aspepperpot iron potsare for‘boilin’down’soups used almost allof devel- theflatlandhasbeen ing theirhandswithworry.OnTortola, freshwater wring- keep environmentalists x calabeza Fungi ( Prior years of overfishing have put conch plantsmakeDesalination fresh water out Environmental concernshaveEnvironmental resulted in „ „ „ „ „ HOW MUCH? 494-3904; www.bvinationalparkstrust.org)

Roti Pusser’s Rum750mlbottle Half-day sailingtrip Gorda Round-trip ferry toVirgin Tortola Two-tank scubadive trip US$11 foon (pumpkin)soup.Anotherpopu- US$25 -ghee) ismadefromcornmeal -ghee) root -ee), flatbread-ee), envelopes Tannia BVI NationalParks Trust BVI US$80 cassareep lonelyplanet.com – (arootvegeta- US$110 US$10 which com- , which (sauce (sauce flying aroundwithdistinctive cooswhen means ‘turtledove,’ which were thebirds daily catch. Conch (pronouncedconk)is will bake, grill,stew orboilwhatever isthe arrive withjohnnycakes (fried bread). vinegar, onionandnative spices.Mostdishes Daube lonelyplanet.com Scalloped bays ring the island; the deepest Scalloped baysringtheisland; thedeepest edge on the island’snorth andsouthshores. slopesthatcome almosttothewater’ssteep altitude of spine creates Tortola’s mountain but israrely more than2mileswide. The body stretches 14milesfromwesttoeast called theNarrows.Tortola’slong, thin,tall a windsweptandcurrent-ripped channel 2 mileseastof theUSVIs’StJohn, across At 21sqmilesinarea, Tortolalieslessthan Orientation boring Guana Island). have sinceflownthecoop(exceptonneigh- Christopher Columbuscameashore. Most plus itsairand ferry hub. BVIs’ governmental andcommercialcenter, ing there’s alotof choice here. It’salsothe live andworkonTortola,soit’snotsurpris- tea-fueled with Bomba. parties –artsywithAragornormushroom- getden. Youeven yourchoice of full-moon whopreparesScatliffe, themfromhergar- cooks make islanddishes nexttoelderlyMrs mingle withbeachside resorts. villas andmountain play places.Guesthouses villea-clad hillsidesyou’llfindamash-upof Among Tortola’s sharp peaksandbougain- pop 19,600 TORTOLA cream. coconut orange juice,pineapplejuiceandatouch of called thePainkiller, ayummymixof rum, to bottled water. with asensitive stomach wanttostick might menus during thisperiod. opposite ), you’re lesslikely tofindthemon Novemberfrom August15through 1(see fishing of conch andlobster isforbidden is Anegada’sclaimtofame. As commercial often friedintocrispyfritters. Fresh lobster Fish andshellfishare prevalent, andcooks As forthename:inSpanish, About 80%of the BVIs’ 23,500citizens waterWhile tap isusuallysafe, visitors The BVIs are hometoapopularcocktail meat is a pot roast seasoned with meatisapotroastseasoned TORTOLA ••RoadTown TORTOLA Bon Appetite tortola

on theisland’seastend.Mostinternational Island,connected toTortolabyabridge Beef End ferry. will pickyouupat Jerry the dock. jeep; WestEnd)Agoodoptionifyou’re cominginonaWest locatedatWickhams prices; Cay 1. special – no mega sights to see orsceneryto tosee special – nomegasights behonest:theBVIs’Let’s isnothing capital ROAD TOWN (one way US$21). andtheairportissame GardenBay Cane details. Taxis are widelyavailable; see p418 forfurther TAXI Rental Car Jerry’s Rentals Car Itgo Hertz rental. weekly as US$90,butyou’llget abetter pricefora about US$55perday,andcanrunashigh rates beginat cies onTortola. High-season There are localcar-rental several agen- CAR makes for slow travel. map, theruggedness of Tortola’stopography onthe looksclose everything Although taxis. either rent cars ormake of use theefficient isnonexistentPublic transportation sopeople Getting Around to/fromtheUSVIs, sailings see p416 ). and schedules withintheBVIs, see p417 ). For Road TownandWestEnd.Forferry costs Amalie onStThomas(USVIs)fromboth Road Townonly.Ferries travel toCharlotte travel toVirgin GordaandAnegadafrom Jost Van Dyke fromWestEndonly.Ferries ern end.Ferries travel toStJohn (USVIs)and minal isatWestEndontheisland’s,yes,west- main terminal isinRoadTown,theotherter- There are twoportsof entryforferries: the BOAT ahub nect through (see p415 ). fromNorthAmericaandEuropecon- flights Terrence BLettsomeAirport AIR Getting There&Away town andcapital, Road Town. astheharborforBVIs’ largestserves www.hertzbvi.com) The fare fromRoadTowntotheWestEnd, Airport ( x

495-6600); (

( x x 494-5150; RoadTown)Good 495-4111; www.info-res.com/jerry Road Town

(EIS; x ( 494-3701) x 494-6228;

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395 BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS ISLANDS VIRGIN BRITISH BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS in RoadTown.All have ATMs. 1 are Cay Caribbean allfoundonWickhams upstairs caféwithinternetaccess(per 30min US$5). 8:30am-3pmSat)Thisbookshophasan 5:30pm Mon-Fri, Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Mon-Fri, Sat) tiny officeisattheferry terminal. fic, noise and heat. Benches are amidin- set and heat.Benches fic, noise refugeand apleasant fromRoadTown’s traf- US$3; St;admission .bvinationalparkstrust.org; cnrBotanicRd&Main The Sights Remain alerttoyour surroundings. can becomesuddenlydesolate after dark. Road Townhaslittlestreet crime,butareas Dangers &Annoyances Tourist Books Serendipity Post office Peebles Hospital Board Tourist BVI Bits ‘n’Pieces Information buildings datingbackabout 200 years. and hasacollectionof woodenandstone street windsalongthewestern edge of town shade andquiet.Thenarrow anyone seeking primary shopping venue, isaniceretreat for along Waterfront Dr. Main St,RoadTown’s before journeying onward. place tostockuponfood,drinksandmoney ships forcenturies.Itremains aconvenient as a‘roadstead’ area) (staging of forfleets which hasserved principal harbor,RoadBay, and the USVIs. the outlyingislands,includingVirgin Gorda charter theirownboatortake theferries to and mostvisitors doexactlythatwhenthey perfectly decentplacetospendadayornight, gers quicklyoverwhelm thesmallarea). It’sa passen- shipseach daywhose or twocruise with RoadTown,either(unless it’stheone drop yourjaw.Butthere’s nothingwrong 396 net access:hasfourcomputerterminalsand a printer. 30min US$5; has completeemergency services. which issufficientfor navigating roads. Themainofficeprovidesafree map, 4:30pm Mon-Fri) .bvitourism.com; DeCastro St, Akara Bldg; DeCastroSt,Akara .bvitourism.com; Branches of andFirst Scotiabank,FirstBank Most of thetown’spubsandrestaurants are The towntakes itsnamefromtheisland’s h JR O’NealBotanicGardens OTL • Ra on ••RoadTown TORTOLA

office 8am-4pm) ( h x ( ( x x 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pmSat)Inter- 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 494-7423; Main St; 494-7423; Main ( ( x ( 494-7260; is afour-acre nationalpark 494-5957; Wickhams Cay1;per 494-5957; Wickhams x x 494-3497; Main St; 494-3497; Main 494-3134, 800-835-8530;www 494-5865; Main St; 494-5865; Main h 8:30am-4:30pm) This

h ( x h 8:30am-4pm 494-4557; www h h 8:30am- 24hr) It 8:30am- dv sites. dive with WeBeDivin’here. Itsboatsrun toallthemajorlocal the Aquaventure Scubaoffice,whichworksinconjunction 1-/2-tankdive US$85/120)Lookfor Village CayMarina; traditional, schooner.80ft ADock;full-daytoursUS$105) Village CayMarina, or crewed boatcharters, see p416 . 2).FormoreCay informationonbareboat (primarily fromtheMooringsatWickhams BVIs, andRoadTowniswhere itallhappens Boat charters are big,bigbusinessinthe Activities artifacts. historic withperiodfurniturea smallmuseum and the BritishGovernor’s residence. Todayit’s (admission US$3; bol, whitewashed 1880 Main St,andlookinglike animperialsym- Indian timber-framed construction. Church the westof theprison,1924 freed slaves Britain’s intheWestIndies.To of the1834EmancipationProclamationthat vivor of the18thcentury.Insideisacopy h Church Episcopal (Anglican) George’s of East theprison, from thecellsatnight. voicesandradiomusic you canhearmuffled century. Thefortress isstillaworkingjail,and rubble wallsof with traditionalbush medicine plants. forest andcactus grove. Theherbgardenisrife lilypond,smallrain- is alsoanorchid house, digenous andexotictropicalplantsthere We BeDivin’ and bikes surfboards, dive gear. equipment (fromUS$37perday).Italsorents windsurfing rentals (US$30/40persingle/double)and on kayak Dock)Hasgreat rates Cay2,Mooring’s .com; Wickhams Last StopSports p398. text, boxed the For divingandsnorkeling hotspots,see SquallII White catamaran. 48ft half/full-daytoursUS$80/125)A .com; HRPenn Marina; Charters Patouche others; pricesinclude snorkel gear. Dyke, AnegadaandNormanIsland,among erators runtripstoVirgin Gorda,JostVan The followingwell-regarded op- day-sail attheextremeStanding southendof In theheartof Main white- St,thestark 10am-4pm Mon-Sat,7am-4pmSun) isafineexampleof aclassicWest ( x ( h x ( HM Prison 494-4320; www.webedivinbvi.com; x ( 9am-2pm Mon-Sat) x 494-2564; www.whitesquall2.com; 494-0564; www.laststopsports 248-494-6300; www.patouche date backtothe18th Government House Government lonelyplanet.com isanothersur- wasonce ( x Methodist Methodist 494-3894; St

ficiency apartments.It’snothingfancy (and property hasabout20smallroomsandef-

Book yourstayonlineatlonelyplanet.com/hotels view interior rooms tend to bedark,andall furnishings andprivate balconies. Thenon- its harbor-view rooms,which have thickwood this 30-roomproperty offers decentvalue in View Hotel, Located upthehillbehind theSea Rd;s/d/qUS$95/99/140; .com; MacNamara canbe so noise a problem. Unfortunately, thehotel frontsabusyroad motel-like rooms are cleanandwellkept. despite thename,there’s noview),butthe as Rd;r/aptincltaxUS$82/120; Dr&MacNamara cnr Waterfront Hotel View Sea Sleeping

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a r g e n e i n Cay 2 SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION (nlcn hrh...... A2 (Anglican)Church...... St George'sEpiscopal Patouche Charters...... Mooring's Dock...... Methodist Church...... Last StopSports...... (see13) JR O’NealBotanicGardens.... HM Prison...... Government House...... Tourist Office...... (see30) Serendipity Books...... Scotiabank...... Post Office...... Peebles Hospital...... FirstBank...... First Caribbean...... Customs House...... (see30) BVI TouristBoard...... Bits 'n'Pieces...... ) Waterfront

Road Reef towels fill thefourbreezy rooms;you’ll feel Yvonne. Tile floors, batik decorandthick only one),runby long-timeUKtransplant ais .hummingbirdbvi.com; Pasea; rinclbreakfast US$135-160; dinner atthegourmetrestaurant on site. ready toclimblotsof steps –it’llhelpworkoff of thefive suites have even private pools.Be viewsandsome ties; mosthave sea sweeping hillside.a steep The12roomshave allameni- Dutch fortthatonceguardedtheharborfrom The hotel ontheruinsof rises a300-year-old Dr;r/stefromUS$120/200; Waterfront fortburt; rooftop Thairestaurant that dinner.serves rooms are somewhat faded.There’s agood

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( x 0 0 TRANSPORT SHOPPING EATING SLEEPING un aibeSieSo.. A3 Sunny CaribbeeSpiceShop.... Peter IslandFerry...... Itgo CarRentals...... Ferry Dock...... Pusser's CompanyStore...... (see24) Latitude 18...... Roti Palace...... Road TownBakery...... Riteway FoodMarket...... Pusser's Pub...... Le Cabanon...... Fort BurtRestaurant...... (see16) Capriccio diMare...... C&F Bar&Restaurant...... Village CayHotel&Marina... Sea ViewHotel...... Hummingbird House...... Hotel CastleMaria...... Fort BurtHotel...... White SquallII...... (see20) We BeDivin'...... (see20) 494-2587; www.bviguide.com/ 21

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) BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS ISLANDS VIRGIN BRITISH BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS listings. Self-caterers canstockupat listings. Self-caterers up thefree has restaurants tomatch wallet.Pick every Tortolians love toeatout, andRoadTown Eating &Drinking bar-restaurant. pier-side comeforadrink atthe fast. Ifnothingelse, Everyone isontothedeal,soitbooks up at afractionof theprice. There’s alsowi-fi. have allthefirst-class amenitiesof aresort low boaters. The19roomsandtwocondos pecially ifyouwanttoschmooze withfel- placetorest isasweet yourhead,es- Cay overlooking thebay’syacht slips,Village Located smackinthemiddleof RoadTown Cay1;rUS$165-220; -villagecay.com; Wickhams town, orUS$4 cab ride. Pasea neighborhood, a25-minute walkfrom is free. Hummingbirdislocated intheleafy wi-fi(per 30minutes US$5),though access US$20)andinternetconditioner (pernight poolside. There are surcharges theair- touse room. Breakfast served isafullcooked affair like you’re inafriend’sbigol’guest staying 398 Village Cay Hotel &Marina Hotel Cay Village

„ „ „ „ „ Top Five SnorkelingSites „ „ „ „ „ Top Five Dive Sites sites, youtothesnorkeling see operators whowilltake p396 . BVIs. Foralistofdive youtothesites operatorswhowilltake listed here, see p412 . Forday-sail You can’tstickyourtoeinthewater underwater withoutsplashinganextraordinary site inthe SOAK ITUP

OTL • Ra on ••RoadTown TORTOLA The Caves Dry RocksEast Brewers Bay Loblolly Bay The Baths with shallowcanyonsrisingtothesurface. Angel Reef water to30ftabove water. tions intheBVIs. Alice’s Wonderland crevices anddeepholes. Blond Rock Island ( p404 it anaccessiblewreck dive), making foralllevels. Wreck oftheRMSRhone Limin’ Times Virgin Gorda NormanIsland Off NormanIsland,thissite isacrossroadsforspeciesfromdifferent Off habitats, ApinnaclebetweenDeadChestandSaltIslands,thiscoralledgehasmanycaves, Just off Norman Island, three cone-shaped rockformationsrisefrom36ftunder- JustoffNormanIsland,three cone-shaped Tortola Anegada CooperIsland This spotoffGingerIslandhassomeofthebestdeepwater coralforma- for entertainment forentertainment (

x This famous310ftshipwreck sitsinjust30ftto90ftofwater offSalt 494-2771; www.igy ais Riteway Riteway

) Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun) Food Market the chicken, conch or beef, vegetable fillings. off Fierychutneyopen-air plastictables. sets someof theisland’s bestrotiatits rant serves the hilloff Main St,thiscramped littlerestau- h with plentyof winestowashit all down. dinner feature dishesandpizza, pasta salads, cludes pastriesandcappuccino. Lunch and draws bothlocalsandtravelers. Breakfast in- across fromtheferry café dock, thisItalian the porch of aclassicWestIndianhouse US$9-14; set you free. and fatslicesof cake weep-worthy thatwill brownies but it’sthepumpkinspicemuffins, arescraps. Thesoupsandsandwiches dandy, alongwiththechickenstables peckingfor atthefive youcaneat outdoor away, though take- here. Thesmallcounter mostlyserves Culinary Institute studentsbake thegoods sandwiches US$5-8; Roti Palace diMare Capriccio o lunch &dinner) h Road TownBakery breakfast, lunch&dinnerMon-Sat) Book yourstayonlineatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

( ( x x Onasidestreet thatleadsup h 494-4196; Abbott Hill Rd;rotisUS$9-16; 494-4196; AbbottHill . 494-2263; Pasea;

( breakfast &lunch) x 494-5369; Waterfront Dr;mains 494-5369; Waterfront

( x h NewEngland 494-0222; Main St; 494-0222; Main 7:30am-10pm Set on Set Adjoining Pusser’s Pub, this shop sells logoed logoed Pub,thisshopsells Adjoining Pusser’s 20; concocts hisbistro’sescargot, foiegrasand St) US$11-17; at brass-ringed tables. burger andsandwich eaters whoopingitup nautical-themed pubgets lively withpizza, lonelyplanet.com big resorts. The ruinedwallsand founda- shoreline pastacouple of historicsites and Just westof Road Towntheroadhugs AROUND ROAD TOWN jewelry anddollsby local craftspeople. paintings, pottery, The adjoininggallerysells as hangover cures andbad-spirit repellents. and ‘mangomagic.’Spicesare alsopackaged like ‘rumpeppers’island-made seasonings Majesty’s RoyalNavy shipsfor 300 years. onHerof Rum–theblendserved Pusser’s clothing andaccessories,aswellbottles 18 stocks them all. or good-qualitysouvenir T-shirts, Latitude ofneed flip-flops, Kipling bags sunglasses, port, butthetopshopsare on Main St. into ships sail 1whencruise Cay Wickhams Craft hawkers comeoutindroves around Shopping to comefor romantic dinners. England CulinaryInstitute. It’sagreat place createdsalsa) bystudentsof thenearbyNew cakes saltfish orlobster(say, withavocado dishes intheFortBurtHotel serves taurant viewofdelightful theharbor,thisupscaleres- mains US$20-35; becomes ahappenin’scene at night. fromaclassicWestIndianhouse, race, carved from French St-Martin. Theopen-airter- dishes usingprovisionsseafood flownin 30; from chef Clarence Emmanuel. andcurrydishes consume barbecueseafood ferry dock).Tortoliansshow upindroves to a cabyourfirst trip–about US$7fromthe It’s worththetroubleittakes tofind(take joint inPurcellEstate, eastof RoadTown. Indian cuisine,cometothisneighborhood It’safavorite foritscolorfularrayof h Pusser’s Pub Sunny Caribbee SpiceShop Sunny Caribbee Pusser’s CompanyStore Le Cabanon Latitude 18 Restaurant Burt Fort C&F Bar&Restaurant h dinner Mon-Sat) dinner) h Parisian ChristopherBoisgirard lunch &dinner)

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( TORTOLA ••AroundRoadTown TORTOLA x 494-8660; Waterfront Dr;mainsUS$20- 494-8660; Waterfront breakfast, lunch&dinner) 494-7807; Main St) 494-7807; Main For totally authenticWest Fortotally 494-3897; Waterfront Dr;mains 494-3897; Waterfront

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( x ( x

x ThisEnglish-style, 494-2587; Waterfront Dr; 494-2587; Waterfront 494-4941; mainsUS$12- 494-2467; Waterfront Dr) 494-2467; Waterfront ( x For those in For those 494-2178; Main 494-2178; Main Witha

r US$150-475; former site of a16th-century pirate’s den, isa p408). (see from theUSVIs(see p416 ) andJostVan Dyke main ferry terminal for vessels going toand ofThe smallsettlement West Endhas the WEST END session. three-hour and lessonsforapproximately US$100per .com; NannyCay) ings. private balconiesandwoodencathedralceil- on a25-acre islet.Roomshave kitchenettes, pleasure dome in short, it’saself-contained bike center, boutiquesandaminimarket – rina, windsurfingschool, dive shop, mountain pools, tworestaurants, atennis court,ma- scription fits.The42-roomresort hastwo andthede- as‘anislanduntoitself,’ itself as .nannycay.com; s/dstandardUS$170/200,steUS$200-295; groups. that iswidelycondemnedbyenvironmental herewild animalsbrought forcibly,apractice areoperates these on site, but remember: tank dive US$75/110) ( step, asis diving instructionwith fishing andyacht charters are atyourdoor- ferry toPeter Island,3milesoffshore. Tennis, byrunningaregularpensates glass-bottom resort…except abeach. com- ProspectReef amenities you’dexpectfroma44-acre seaside bedroom villas(US$475).There are allthe tions, fromgardenstudios(US$150)totwo- configura- The 137roomscomeinseveral ( der of RoadTown,sits of be whatmight prisoners’ graffiti. itsundergroundbecause cellholdsremnants Royal Engineers. ItwasdubbedtheDungeon the DC. Washington, Buildinginon todesigntheUSCapitol just westof Thorntonwent NannyCay. andunguarded great lieunpreserved house tions of the round the fort. BVIs’ structure. oldestintact Villasnowsur- x x A ‘swimwiththedolphins’programalso Resort &Marina Resort Nanny Cay Just beyondFortBurt,onthewestern bor- Halfway RoadTownandWestEnd, between Closer totheWestEnd, Closer Dungeon 494-9200, 800-353-3419; www.divetortola.com; 1-/2- 494-9200, 800-353-3419;www.divetortola.com; 494-3311, 800-356-8937; www.prospectreefbvi.com; 494-3311, 800-356-8937;www.prospectreefbvi.com; Island ) , 3mileswestof RoadTown,describes

uf Sail & Surf as oes Hole Sopers is aruinedfortbuiltin1794bythe William Thornton Estate William Thornton alsooffers windsurfing rentals . ) ,

( Tortola’s largest resort. x (www.sopershole.com) 494-0123; www.bviwatertoys Prospect Reef Resort Reef Prospect Fort Recovery Fort

( x 494-4895; www plantation plantation Dive Tortola Tortola Dive isthe , the 399

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS ISLANDS VIRGIN BRITISH BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS bience. The seafood-based dinnersbience. are Theseafood-based abit andaMargaritavilleharborside seating am- small store thedelicious sells local liquor. using copper vatsandwooden agingcasks.A producing Arundel rumhere forgenerations, familyhasbeen The Callwood Caribbean. tinuously operated distillery intheEastern (tour US$1; the GardenBay, Cane off theNorthCoastRdatwest endof great mealsinitsrestaurant. Just also serves Museum You can’tmiss thefunky Sights &Activities making itabout a 25-minute drive. precipitous roadstravel over themountains, crow fliesfromRoadTown,butthewinding, outhereyou stay you’re living among locals. villas are When smallWestIndiansettlements. Speckled amidclumpsof shoreside holiday are ofGarden Bay aseries picturesque bays. along asmallstripof road.Southof Cane hugsthewaterthe landscape,soeverything dominatearea, mountains thesheer however; most popular party zone. bars andrestaurants make itTortola’s serving perfecto 1-milebeach andthrongsof rum- which hedidin1978’s‘Mañana.’ Thearea’s insong– wouldimmortalize Jimmy Buffet isexactlythekindof GardenBay place Cane coveA turquoise ringed green bysteep hills, CANE GARDENBAYAREA 6:30pm). to snacks andbooze (happyhourisfrom5pm pricey fortheirquality.It’sbesttostick h sit above the restaurant. rooms (shared/private bathroomUS$70/112) FiveFriday andSaturdaynights. very basic travelers barbecueon flocktotheCaribbean up deliciousgrilledfish andpizzas.Locals great waterfront locationandthechefs serve dock, thispopularrestaurant andbarhasa north sideof Sopers Hole,nexttotheferry .com; mainsUS$9-20; call fromhere transportation Anyone needing can wharf thathassomegreat restaurants andbars. major anchorage, withamarinaandshopping 400 Pusser’s Landing Jolly RogerInn The northshore liesonlyafew milesasthe Rid yourself of visionsof asprawlingresort lunch &dinner) West EndTaxi Association OTL • Cn adnByAe BayArea ••CaneGarden TORTOLA

( x h 495-4714; CarrotBay;admissionfree) 8:30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Thisfunpuboffers outdoor h

( x ( breakfast, lunch&dinner) x 495-4559; www.jollyrogerbvi 495-4554; mainsUS$18-27; Callwood RumDistillery Callwood ( x is theoldestcon- North Shore Shell Shore North 495-4934) Onthe , which .

white-sand beach thatspreads westof Apple trails crisscross the92-acre surroundingpark. any otherpeakintheVirgin Islands.Seven than higher At 1716ft,Sage rises Mountain SAGE MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK ern tip,has good snorkeling. Bay. Shack (see opposite ). homeofBay, theinfamousBomba’sSurfside includesCappoons On manymaps,AppleBay February whentheconsistent swellsrollin. ‘surfing beach,’ especiallyinlate Decemberto over for the day. arrive inRoadTownandshuttlepassengers ships whencruise comes afull-onmadhouse bars. It’sapopularyacht anchorage, andbe- plenty of water-sports vendors andbeachside The gently slopingcrescent of hosts sand that drew youtotheBVIs inthefirst place. ple of beach bars anda campground here. drive switchbacks. downsteep There are acou- cab rideorabrake-smoking do-it-yourself getting herecause involves eitheranexpensive snorkeling andatranquilscene–possiblybe- shore hasexcellent eastof GardenBay, Cane Bay Brewers BEACHES at anyof the other lodgings. tostay wheels without a car,butyou’llneed GardenBay atCane You couldfeasibly stay Sleeping May. late in Wyclef Jean GardenBay towailatCane brings big-nameactslike Percy Sledge and Festival Music BVI Festivals &Events hours for your rambles. ofvistas boththeUSVIsandBVIs. Allowtwo spectacular days.You’llalsosee the dinosaur and otherflorathathave notchanged since fern trees, mahoganytrees, coco-plumshrubs ards. Hikers shouldkeep aneyeoutfor20ft damp, populatedfrogsandliz- bybo-peep many rainforest characteristics. It’scooland of rainperyear,butthelusharea possesses itreceives because lessthan100inchessense, 0.3 milesfromthe car lot. Pick upatrailmapatthemainentrance,about The parkisnotarainforest inthetrue AppleBay Bay Garden Cane Long Bay Smuggler’s Cove isanattractive 1-milestretch of , apalm-fringed bayonthenorth Book yourstayonlineatlonelyplanet.com/hotels , southwestof Garden,isthe Cane ( x is probably onthepostcard , attheisland’ssouthwest- 495-3378; www.bvimusicfest.info)

area’s first inns.Thebigpinkconcrete build- center wasoneof of the theaction,Rhymer’s Book yourstayonlineatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Windy Hill; 1-/2-bedroom aptUS$185/285; Windy Hill; elsewhere. travel onsite restaurant ifyou’re feeling too lazyto and arefrigerator orkitchen. There’s agood have view,abalcony teak furnishings,asea stretch of 26rooms beachfront, Sebastian’s anditsgorgeous known foritsfriendlystaff tiansbvi.com; LittleAppleBay;rUS$135-275; studios withkitchenette and patios. of theplacemake upforit.Roomsare mostly ous signsof butthepriceandenergy harduse, ing withitsrestaurant andlaundryshows seri- Bay; dUS$117; walls of a320-year-old rum factory. Rymer placedthe18smallroomswithin ambience. Owner andreggae master Quito yellowhotelThis bright can’tbebeatfor Bay;dwithhill/beachviewUS$110/145; Cane Garden and bar forbeer other sustenance. andflush toilets.There’sbathhouse abeach your owngear. Everyone shares thecold-water worn andgloomy,soyou’re better off with linens andacookstove); thelatter are abit theprepareduse sites (which includetwocots, onthebeach.right Youcanbringatent or sites trees palms situndersea-grape andtall a rideover roads.The mountain zigzagging it’sahellof although GardenBay, from Cane commercial campgroundisaroundthebend Bay; campsites/equippedtentsUS$20/40) Heritage Inn Heritage BeachHotel Rhymer’s Ole WorksInn BayCampground Brewers Sebastian’s Sebastian’s hosts live bandsonWednesdayandSundayevenings. ofteato enduptoplessinphotos:mindyourintake andrumpunch. 500 people,bothtouristsandlocals,showupforhisbacchanals. Note tothosewhodon’twish free andare psychoactive mushroomtea legal),andupto (mushroomsgrowwildonTortola feature anoutdoorbarbecue,live reggae andplentyofdancingdrinking. Bombaalsoserves waves curlingoutfront.Todaytheshackisfamousforitsmonthly which full-moon parties, these photosandwearingawidegrinalongwithhistrademarksunglasses,isBomba. throughout, alongwithsnapshotsoftoplesswomen.Very often, sittingsmackinthemiddleof covered signposts espousingcarnalwisdomsuchas‘WoodisGood!’.Brasandpantiesare woven the Caribbean forreasons includingbras,booze, fullmoonsandtrippymushrooms. Bomba’s Surfside Shack FULL MOONS,MUSHROOMS&AMAN NAMED BOMBA Even ifyou’re noton-islandduringthefullmoon,BombaShackisasighttobehold.It hisbar-restaurantBomba started about30yearsagotofeed whostillridethe thesurfers andgraffiti- The placetrulyisashack,builtfrommishmashoflicenseplates, surfboards a ( x

( ) x Onthebeachin andright

( x 495-4212, 800-336-4870;www.sebas 494-5842; www.heritageinnbvi.com; 494-5842; www.heritageinnbvi.com; 495-4837; www.quitorymer.com;

( x

( ( x 495-4639; Cane Garden 495-4639; CaneGarden x 495-4148; CappoonsBay) Tortola’sonly 494-3463; Brewers as TORTOLA •• Cane Garden BayArea ••CaneGarden TORTOLA a ) High High Well ) as

) as .sugarmillhotel.com; AppleBay;studio/stefromUS$325/340; 25; beforeCall coming,as hours can be erratic. music byblowingand bangingonconch shells. oftenstaff lead thepatronsinmakingfungi big breakfasts andgrilledfishdinners. The by Egberth Donovan, specializesindelicious mix of andeatery, owned fascinatingmuseum mains US$7-18; cricket on orbaseball the TV. eating onthepatioandabarcrowd watching providenights alively scene,withfamilies up great cheap eatsandlocalambience. Friday this family-styleWestIndianrestaurant serves 13; solid boozing time. offeringat night, live music,dancingorjust Many restaurants inthis area turn intobars Eating &Drinking centerpiece isthe gourmet restaurant. trees, bougainvilleaandpalms.Theproperty’s hide onthesteep hillsideamongmahogany inthe16studiosandsuites that Guests stay thatgavePlantation itsname. AppleBay fromtheruinsofhotel rises theAppleby thisboutique intimacy andcustomerservice, stay three nights. has apool,sundeck,restaurant. Minimum tohangoutinthinair.ments thatseem Italso thisplacehasnine spaciousapart- Bay, Carrot and GardenBay Cane on WindyHillbetween nearAppleBayhasachieved mythicstatusin Rhymer’s ShellMuseum Shore North Palm’s Delight Hotel Sugar Mill h h breakfast, lunch&dinner) dinner) ) Inaleagueof itsownfor ambience,

( Located onthewater’s right edge, x h 495-4639; Cane Garden Bay;mainsUS$15- 495-4639; Cane Garden breakfast, lunch&dinner)

( x

( x 495-4863; CarrotBay;mainsUS$7- 495-4355, 800-462-8834;www Beachside Rhymer’s Rhymer’s Beachside ( x 495-4714; CarrotBay; Thiszany 401

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS ISLANDS VIRGIN BRITISH BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS studio.com) cludes tures’ ablazeon the ocean. ‘fireball hissteel glers. At9pmhesets sculp- with fungimusic, stiltwalkers andfire jug- ( p401 around7pm kicksoff ). Aragorn’sevent family-friendly alternative to Bomba’sbash also hostshisown makers, atwork.He allof whomyoucansee andbatik space forpotters, coconutcarvers of theairport.Thestudiogrew toinclude Bay Trellis started that rampsupduringthe full moon. only major airport,aswellanartscollective off Tortola’seastern end,ishometotheBVIs’ Indian communities. remotetains, West baysandthicklysettled Tortola’s eastern endisamixof steep moun- END EAST are distillery. Reservations a must. restored of rum boilinghouse theplantation’s inthe changingconstantly menuthat’sserved writers for Owners Jeff andJinxMorgan, contributing like poached Creole. lobster andeggplant salivate over concoctions themodCaribbean mains US$25-36; from the primary school. for you.She’s intheyellowbuildingacross ing thechicken-in-coconut orconch soupjust before 5pm,sinceshe’llreservations bemak- fromhergarden.Youmustcallfor straight deck, usingfruitsandveggies sheyanks WestIndiandishes onher serves Scatliffe Bay; mainsUS$25-32; grilled items such as snapperfill the menu. make luncheons. forpopularlight Atnight ends todojustthat.Rotisandfresh salads and hundreds packtherestaurant onweek- dance upastormtoQuito’sreggae rhythms, band hastoured Marley. withZiggy Youcan name fromitsowner,QuitoRymer,whose beachside draw,thisbar-restaurant takes its US$15-25; beachgoers refreshment.seeking menu includesfish andribs.Thebardraws great breakfast (aboutUS$7),andthedinner a totheeponymoushotel)(attached serves 402 o Mrs Scatliffe’sRestaurant Quito’s Gazebo The row of shopsbyAragorn’s alsoin- Local coppersmith AragornDick-Read OTL • Es n ••EastEnd TORTOLA Boardsailing BVI Boardsailing BVI Aragorn’s Studio under the sea-grape trees underthesea-grape fronting h , a broad semicircular beach justeast , abroadsemicircular Sugar Mill Hotel Hotel Sugar Mill Bon Appetite lunch &dinner,closedMon) h

( x breakfast, lunch&dinner) h 495-4837; Cane Garden Bay;mains 495-4837; CaneGarden dinner) full-moon party

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( x x magazine, oversee the

( Senior citizenMrs Senior x 495-2447, 800-880-7873; 495-1849; www.aragorns

( x 495-4355; AppleBay; 495-4556; Carrot , thelarge isle Another , anartsy, Foodies Gorda’s NorthSoundExpress ferry ( p417 ). with the invitation to‘spendavacation,not with theinvitation welcometravelers andBillCampbell Carol with specialdealsforlonger Canadians stays. thisisoneofBay, thebestvaluesonTortola, abouthalfamilefromJosiah’sseclusion rUS$90-205; Hill; .com; Josiah’s hot-water bathroom and kitchenette. There’s alsoastudioapartmentwithprivate, bathrooms andagame-filled commonroom. they allshare gender-segregated, cold-water have bedandsimplefurnishings; aqueen-size popular surfingbeach. Thethree roomseach since it’sonlyatwo-minute walkfromthe caters inJosiah’sBay house mostlytosurfers, r/aptUS$55/100) .josiahsbaybvi.com; Limin’Bar&Hostel Near-D-Beach Sleeping wide, palm-fringed beach. Bay Lambert lieinlandonthevalleyslopes. guesthouses charming andinexpensivespace. Several beach barhere surroundedbyacres of empty fable pointbreak inwinter. There’s asmall Bay café als orlessons,alocalproducemarket, a Trellis Bay) www.windsurfing.vi; dishes, and theswim-upbar isa fine touch. goodlocal randa. Theonsite restaurant serves decor, butare abitdark;each hasaprivate ve- garden andpool.The roomshave batik-print West Indian–style buildingsurroundacentral thenineroomsatthis red-roofedJosiah’s Bay, near House down thehillfromSerendipity club.com; rinclbreakfast US$139-165; come with fans. rooms have unexpected character. Allrooms West Indianhomethananinn,but thefour looksmoreguesthouse like acontemporary a grove of low coconutpalms,theone-story early departure. onathinbeach among Set choice for anyonewithalate arrivalor to theairportandtherefore anexcellent restaurant, thisplaceisafive-minute walk Mongoose on Trellis nexttoDeLoose Bay islandguesthouse.com; rincl breakfast US$130) kitchens. full an apartmenttoatwo-bedroom villa,allwith a fortune.’ There are fourunits,rangingfrom Tamarind ClubHotel Beef IslandGuestHouse House Serendipity Endinclude ontheEast Beaches , a dramatic windsweptstrandwithasur-

(per 15minUS$5) Book yourstayonlineatlonelyplanet.com/hotels , totheeastof Josiah’s,offers a andthelandingforVirgin

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x ) Fortropical 443-7833; www Just100yd ) Located Josiah’s Josiah’s cyber- offers ahuge andsurprisinglycreative menu, thisfun-timesribhouse theseaside, hugging day-dreaming. Her populationwasonly quietlySpanish) who,until the1960s,sat hangout isagreat placetohave breakfast, eat thiswindsurfer IslandGuestHouse, Beef 23; o Eating lonelyplanet.com brought jobs,roads andutilities.A fewbrought years resort,constructed theLittle DixBay which Rockefellerabout 600soulsuntil Laurence drink with the yachties. to Bitter EndYacht ClubandSabaRockto National Park. dogscantake ferries over Sea der aroundwind-poundedCopper Mine Peak, relishing thecoolbreeze, andmean- TrekkersBay. canalsosummitVirgin Gorda over, themtoDevil’s aroundandthrough especially whencombinedwiththehike up, and guesswhat?Theylive uptothehype, Baths are theBVIs’ biggest touristattraction, somehow, no rampant commercialism. easy access,goodrestaurants andvillasand, Gorda, anidealblendof extraordinarysights, get thepoint.Andyoushouldget toVirgin own personal offshore. islandright Butyou actually onVirgin Gorda,buthashisvery earth. Ofcourse, itshould benoted he’snot in theworld–chooses thislittlepatch of Richard Branson –whocouldlive anywhere awesomeness thatabillionaire such as atestament to It’s certainly Virgin Gorda’s pop 3500 in Guinness and steak.crab-stuffed featuring items like baby-back ribsmarinated 32; required. Reservations to coconutchicken orBajan flying-fish pie. menu ranges fromgrilledswordfish Creole art galleryandboutique).Theimaginative tilling buildingsof (nowan anoldplantation amidthedis- itsoutdoortables Garden sets placestoeatonTortola,Secretdelightful mains US$12-22; the conch fritters, arguably the BVIs’ best. lunch over orwatch the sunset dinner. Try VRI GORDA VIRGIN This isVirgin Gorda (‘Fat Virgin’ in The giantgranite rockformationsof the Fat HogBob’s Secret Garden Secret h h breakfast, lunch&dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner,closedMon) De LooseMongoose h

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( VIRGINGORDA••Orientation dinner, closedTue) x 495-1010; Maya Cove;mainsUS$17- 495-1010; Maya 495-1834; Josiah’s BayPlantation; 495-1834; Josiah’s (

Witha100ftporch x 495-2303; mainsUS$8- One of themost Next tothe waiting when flights arrive.waiting whenflights topay Expect Valley’s eastside. Youcancounton taxis highest in the Caribbean. Therate fromthe intheCaribbean. highest ratesCab onVirgin Gordaare someof the TAXI Rental Speedy’s Car Rentals Car Mahogany L&S Jeep You’ll payUS$55toUS$85 per day. almostanywheredrop youoff ontheisland. nies thatwillpickyouupfromthe ferry and JeepVirgin Gordahasseveral rental compa- CAR North Sound resorts. US$25 willget youtoGunCreek andthe about US$13forarideintoSpanish Town; GordaAirport Virgin TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Getting Around Island;see Tortola’s Beef p417 for details. Virginbetween Gorda’sNorthSoundand minutes). Road Town,Tortola(roundtripUS$25,30 SpanishTownand timesdailybetween several Smith’s Ferry Speedy’s BOAT Thomas. St .com) ( San JuanandStThomas. shine.com) Air Sunshine AIR Getting There&Away Valley; theairportis1mileto the east. Spanish Town,liesonthewestern shore of the ‘the Valley.’ Virgin Gorda’smainsettlement, land’s southernhalfisarollingplaincalled land. AtitsfootliesNorthSound.Theis- dominates thenorthernhalfofhigh, theis- Sound Rd,runsalong the spine. place tonavigate. North Themainhighway, shapeelongated, serpent makes itaneasy Virgin Gordalies8mileseastof Tortola. Its Orientation x an undeniable beauty. later, theVirgin emerged fromherslumber The prominentVirgin GordaPeak, 1359ft 340-773-6442, 888-359-8687;www.seaborneairline fliesfloatplanestoNorthSoundfrom

( flies toVirgin GordaAirportfrom x ( x North SoundExpress North

( ( 495-5297) x x 495-5240; www.speedysbvi.com) 494-4454; www.smithsferry.com) 495-8900, 800-327-8900;www.airsun ( x (VIJ; (VIJ; ( x 495-5240) x 495-5469) 495-5621) (

Seaborne Airlines Seaborne x 495-2138) is onthe and runs run 403

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS ISLANDS VIRGIN BRITISH BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS 404 extensive, making itone oftheCaribbean’sextensive, bestwreck making dives. See p56 formore onthisdive. Island’s southwestcoastduringahurricanein1867.Nownationalpark,thesteamer’s remains are sails fromRoadTown. converted intoarestaurant-bar andmoored inthebight.Onbeach, & Oct; & Oct; uninhabited landmass. luxurious retreats. Ifyou’ve gotUS$40,000you canrent itfortheday(Branson notincluded). Airways andVirgin ofVirgin Records. About 1 milenorth isoneof the world’smost Gorda,Necker This private Branson, famousadventurer islandbelongstoRichard andscionof Virgin Atlantic Island Necker Parks Trust,the Dogsare forbirdsandmarineanimals. sanctuaries The divinghere isexcellent. andVirginThis clutchofsixislandslieshalfwaybetweenTortola Gorda. Protected National bytheBVI The Dogs developed exceptforthe un- CooperIslandisamoderately hillycayandisvirtually Lying about4milessouthofTortola, Island Cooper on here, buttheRMS This T-shaped islandisaforlornplace. (whichgave The theislanditsname)stillgoes saltmaking Island Salt ( the luxurious,all-inclusive This loftyL-shaped fifth-largest istheBVIs’ andhometo island,about4milessouthofTortola, Island Peter 7827) LouisStevenson’stype forRobert book Since 1843,writers have allegedthattreasure isburiedonNormanIsland,supposedlytheproto- Island Norman Guana IslandClub trails. unlessyou’re Unfortunately, beaches andmilesofhiking oneofthe32guestsstayingat corner.at theisland’snorthwest itsnamefromarockformationcalledthe‘IguanaHead’thatjutsoutcliffGuana takes tip,this850-acre islandistheseventh-largest northeast One mileoffTortola’s islandintheBVIs. Island Guana vessel, hookupwithaday-sailoperator( p396 ). stops forsailors. Mostare reachable orprivate onlybycharter boat.Ifyoudon’thave yourown of uninhabited wildlife luxurioushideawaysfortherichandfamous,provisioning sanctuaries, The ‘outislands’(aCreole BVIs expression forremote orundeveloped mix cays)are awonderful OUT ISLANDS surrounding wrecks andsites. restaurant itapopular anchorageforcruisingyachts. makes Divers alsoswarmtotheisland’s US$670; mental.’ bands orjustcrankBobMarleyandJimmyBuffett over high-voltage soundsystems. island and built a resort, whichheoperatedisland andbuiltaresort, untilhisdeathinthelate 1970s. x IGNGRA • u sad VIRGIN GORDA••OutIslands Two fantasticbeachbarslure boaters. The Today theislandisaprivate nature seven reserve, hometoflamingos,red-legged sandy tortoises, Weekends are always a huge party scene;asonelocalputsit,‘Everyone areWeekends alwaysahugeparty justgetsfucking Anyone with reservations (and a fat wallet) can come to the resort’s (andafatwallet)cancometotheresort’s Anyone withreservations 495-2000; mainsUS$25-55; is anopen-airpavilion.Bothhave goodfoodandtheownersoften bringinlive WestIndian ai ais ) , youaren’t allowedtovisit.Youcanrent theentire islandforUS$26,500aday. ) . Inthelate ‘60s,Norwegian millionaire Peter Smedwigfell inlove withthe

( x Rhone 494-2354, 800-544-8262;www.guana.com; r/villasfromUS$1150-2150; Peter IslandResort Cooper IslandBeachClub h is the big attraction. The isthebigattraction. breakfast, lunch&dinner) Treasure Island William Thornton ( x 495-2000; . The Peter Island ferry (roundtripUS$20)

. It fits the bill: Norman is the BVIs’ largest. Itfitsthebill:NormanisBVIs’ ( x Rhone 494-3721; www.cooper-island.com)

800-346-4451; www.peterisland.com; rfrom 800-346-4451; www.peterisland.com; crashedagainsttherocksoffSalt

(Willie T; x Tradewinds restaurant Pirate’s Bight 494-0183) lonelyplanet.com is aschooner h

closed Sep closed Sep ( , whose x 496-

near theisland’ssouthwestcorner,marksa must go to Tortola. must gotoTortola. Call ahead. you There’s aphysicianonstaff,butforhospitalservices roadintheValley4:30pm) Ontheridge neartheairport. Service Service Taxis dock totheBaths isUS$8roundtrip. Town isUS$25fora3-miletrip;fromtheferry North Soundresorts orGunCreek toSpanish lonelyplanet.com Baths’ parking lot.Butthe trailyouwant at the exciting onetakes behindthetaxis off there. Actually, there are two trails.Theless cool fantastically trail onemusttake toget by adjacent forgreatnesstation ifitwasn’tovershadowed lurk under water. the latter isdistinctive asmanyboulders also makes foruniqueswimmingandsnorkeling; water. thatfloodwithsea grottoes Thearea ofcording tosomeestimates –formaseries leftovers fromupto70millionyears ago, ac- tourist attraction.Therocks–volcaniclava national parkandtheBVIs’ mostpopular of collection This THE BATHS Sights &Activities O’NealClinic Nurse Iris US$5; Chandlery ShipStore h Board Tourist BVI banks. of includingacouple of thetown’sservices, The mallfrontingYacht Harbour holdsmost Information and landtravelers creates a festive vibe. place,butthemixofsleepy islanders, yachties isa thesettlement Spanish Town.Overall home totoday’sYacht Harbour, theheartof ment asPenniston wellinto the 1850s. connections. Islanders referred totheirsettle- on theisland,ratherthanfromanySpanish longagoformakingslavefabric used clothing of theEnglishword‘penniston,’ a bluewoolen ably gets itsnamefroma(severe) corruption commercial center of Virgin Gorda, andprob- strungalongit.It’sthe road withbusinesses Spanish Townisn’tatownsomuch asalong SPANISH TOWN&THEVALLEY couple ofinternet terminals. The Baths would totally liveThe Baths wouldtotally uptoitsrepu- The harbordredged here inthe 1960sis 9am-5pm Mon-Sat,10am-2pm Sun) h ( x ( x 7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noonSat&Sun)Hasa 7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 495-5252, 495-5160) 495-5469) Devil’s Bay Devil’s VIRGINGORDA••SpanishTown&theValley ( x giant boulders giant are the major providers. (Yacht Harbourmall;per10min (Yacht ( 495-5181; Yacht Harbourmall; x tothesouth,and the 495-5337; and Mahogany Taxi Mahogany (admission US$3)

h 9am- Andy’s , lunch and beverages. from Yacht Harbour. Both companiessupply Two recommended operators day-sail depart BOAT TRIPS diving atanyof the BVIs sites. hasfourfastboatsthattake you Bay, Leverick 1-/2-tank diveUS$80/105) BVI Dive DIVING here can be fabulous. walks.Sunsets opportunities forlong,solitary of whiteNootherbeach sand. provides such Bay Savannah ones are Virgin Gorda’s14beaches. Themostbeautiful canwanderforhours along Beachcombers BEACHES picnic asthebluesea pounds below. and thehillsidemakes anexcellentplace for a A coupleof theruins, trailsmeanderthrough per, thenabandonedtheminetoelements. and extracted asmuch as10,000tonsof cop- ers worked thearea 1838and1867 between Park thatcomprise shaft house) ruins (includingachimney, cistern andmine- theimpressivetip, butit’sworthittosee stone atVirgin Gorda’ssouthwest this forlornbluff You’ll drive aheckof awindingroadtoreach COPPER MINENATIONAL PARK ferry dock(round trip US$8). Taxis theparkand between runconstantly snack shackandsnorkel gear rental (US$10). 1pm, andyou’llget alotmore elbow room. All youhave iswaituntilabout todo,though, shuttledinfromresortsbeen ships. andcruise have moored thecoast,andvisitors off have ists. By10ameach of morningfleets yachts ination, theplacesare often overrun withtour- boulder enclosure called the Crawl. Baths), clearwater andgoodsnorkeling off the north. Ithasfinewhite (more sand thanatthe you’ll dropoutontoa sugar-sand beach. sages andbashyourfeet againstrocks.Then intoimpossiblynarrowpas- pools, squeeze clamber over boulders, tidal slosh through the ‘Caves.’ Duringthe20-minute trek, you’ll leaves fromtheBaths’ through beach andgoes While theBaths andenvironsstirtheimag- The Baths’ beach hasachanging station, Bay Spring

(admission free;

( x Trunk Bay 495-5513, 800-848-7078;www.divebvi.com; alsoabutstheBaths, buttothe , which features more than1mile h , Little DixBay sunrise-sunset) , atYacht Harbour and Copper Mine National Copper Mine . Cornishmin- and–thebest

405 BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS ISLANDS VIRGIN BRITISH BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS dixbay.com; rfromUS$725; sort thatrocketed Virgin Gorda toglory,andit if you it. need air-conditioning, soaskforitwhen booking amazes.Onlysomeunits haveThe setting rooms, akitchen, diningarea andsunporch. circular cottages comewith oneortwobed- amid similarhulkingboulders, Guavaberry’s stone’s throwfromtheBaths andplopped cottagesUS$220) 5227; www.guavaberrspringbay.com; 15-minute walkfrom ferry dock. open-air restaurant overlooks thebeach. It’sa and afew alsohave air-con.TVs, Thepopular air-con; thehotel unitsdohave phonesand or have fullkitchens, butnophones,TVs building with12dated studios.Thecottages triangular-shaped cottages andamainhotel beach, Fischer’s Cove hasacollectionof eight gardens andlocated justafew steps fromthe .fischerscove.com; r/cottageUS$160/190) sunbathing. for have three orfourpeople. There isaroof deck but itcanbeagooddeal,especiallyifyou furnishings,ambience, withdowdyrattan ties andanairylivingroom.It’splain-Jane has twobedrooms,afullkitchen, diningfacili- restaurant,apartments, behind ChezBamboo .bayviewbvi.com; aptUS$110-145; well maintained. ings, butthey’re cleanandthegroundsare ing. Roomsare smallwithdingybluefurnish- restaurantHouse inaconcrete-block build- from theferry, has12unitsabove theWheel from Yacht Harbour anda10-minute walk situatedbudget acrossthestreet guesthouse, Hotel Ocean View Sleeping late March or April). Sunday duringtheChristianholiday(usually Festival Easter a foodfairandparadesforthe representing spiritsof thedead),fungibands, with Spanish Townaroundtheyacht harborfills Festivals &Events ofAnegada Spirit Double ‘D’ 406 .com; half/full-day trips US$65/95) A 44ft US$65/95)A44ft .com; half/full-daytrips schooner. full-day trips US$55/95) A 50ft US$55/95)A50ft full-day trips sloop. Bayview Vacation Apartments o BeachHotel Fischer’s Cove Little DixBay IGNGRA • pns on&teVle VIRGIN GORDA••SpanishTown&theValley mocko jumbies ( Guavaberry Spring BayHomes Guavaberry Spring x (

x 495-6150; www.doubledbvi.com;half/

( x (

x ( 495-5181) x 495-5555, 888-767-3966; www.little 499-0901; www.spiritofanegada ais 495-5230; rUS$85; (costumedstiltwalkers , held Friday through , heldFridaythrough a

( x (

Surroundedby x Each of these ) ) Thisisthere- 495-5252; www 495-5329; www Virgin Gorda Virgin a

( x ) This 495- A Yacht Harbour’s mall,thiscasualpubcooks Harbour, thisbistro(inaconverted West mains US$22-40; tas, mahimahi,snapperandother tas, fresh fish. withpas- ThecuisineismostlyItalian, week. perthat rockswithlive nights musicseveral and outdoordining,plusapopularterrace bar south of SpanishTown,thisplace hasindoor circle Nestled amongtheboulders atthetraffic stew. Make dinnerreservations by 3pm. but mosttravelers comehere forherconch youbreakfast, Thelmawillserve season. high and there is astage where abandplaysduring isinanopen-aircourtyard, resort.Bay Seating hangout onthesideroadleadingtoLittleDix h it’sa Atnight salad. fun scene. andseared ahituna up goodpizza,quesadillas fast, lunch&dinner) the piñacoladas and sandwiches. the roadendsatBaths. Theycan’tresist this airypavilionamongtherockswhere set & dinner) Dog Mad Eating &Drinking vibe. Wi-fi costsUS$20 South Seas per day. rooms perfectly anditwaftsanoverall coiffed, keep thegroundsand98 digs. Anarmyof staff remains theisland’sswankiest,celebrity-filled reservations are a reservations good idea. overpriced. Still,theyacht owners pour in, so Theonlyproblem:end evenings. thefoodis Jazz, bluesorcalypso fillstheaironweek- croquettesmenu withsaltfish andhummus. cuisine;there’sCaribbean alsoasmallplates plants. Thechefs specializeinFrench Creole and tropical amidcandlelight ter setting, Indian homeandyard)couldn’tbe inabet- for a cocktail. sunset If youcan’tmake thatshindig,atleast come breezes, cheap rumpunch andgrilledmeats. moon party,complete withlive music,warm Owner EltonSprauve throwsamonthlyfull- like lobster inrum-lemon-cream sauce. theveggie variety),wrapsandmains (even beat thefoodeither,which includesburgers the AtlanticonCopperMineRd.Youcan’t onahilloverlookingbeat thelocation,high US$10-14, mainsUS$22-32; Chez Bamboo o Rock Café Hideout Thelma’s Bath &Turtle breakfast, lunch&dinner) Expatriates andtouristsoften Expatriates gatherat

( x Mine Shaft Café Shaft Mine

Book yourstayonlineatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ( 495-5830; mainsUS$7-12; x h (

Inacourtyardsurroundedby

x 495-5482; mainsUS$17-34; ( x dinner) 495-5239; mainsUS$8-25;

( 495-5752; smallplatesUS$8-14, x h FindthisWestIndian Justnorthof Yacht 495-5646; mainsUS$12-22; lunch &dinner)

( x 495-5260; sandwiches h breakfast, lunch You can’t h h dinner) break-

and uponVirgin slopsrise Steep mountain NORTH SOUND&AROUND Yacht Harbour’s mall. Market lonelyplanet.com stilt dancers (Friday)and sushi (Saturday). (Wednesday), crab (Thursday), pig roast and specialssuchwith nightly asjumboshrimp fast, lunch anddinner and therestaurant, which isopenfor break- dive shop,spa,market andinternet café–oh, Then there’s thebeach, marina,tennis court, furnishings,freetan wi-fi and aprivate balcony. rooms are dandy,each withtwofullbeds,rat- the hillside,you’llknowyou’ve arrived. The14 buildingssplashedup ple, green andturquoise ais rUS$149; 7081, restaurant 495-7154;www.leverickbay.com; Properties area its villas through Resort alsorentsBay more thantwodozen details. Island,Tortola,byferry; see Beef p417 for nearly undisturbedforabout 1 mile. called vivid bluewater attheMango Resortis Bay their bars, ifyou’re even not there.staying viewsat cellent forahappyhourdrinkandsea ( right ) andSabaRockResort( right ), bothex- the Sound’s armada of ferries tootlebackandforthfrom anchored inthesurroundingbays.Amini- thebigresorts andmyriadyachts is toserve mainjob whose land’s onlyothersettlement, a 50-minute walk). you have time,return viathelowertrail(about top provides of vistas theentire archipelago. If and hummingbirds.Thelookouttoweratthe bers), frogs(namedfortheirsound) bo-peep orchids, bromeliads(pineapplefamilymem- Christmas mile walktothecrest. You’llsee trailhead, fromwhere it’sa30-minute, half- hike.sweet atthehigher-up It’seasiesttostart the summitoff NorthSoundRd,andmake a h protected nacle at1359ftVirgin GordaPeak, partof Gorda’s northernend.Theyreach theirpin- The island’smaingrocerystore, o It’s allresorts over here, Leverick although beach andThe strandof gently curving You canreach NorthSounddirectly from North of theparklies sunrise-sunset) Long Bay

Mahoe Bay Mahoe ( x

) (www.virgingordabvi.com) Leverick BayResort Leverick is great thepur- value. Whenyousee Gorda Peak NationalPark 495-5423; Gun Creek lienorthof andrun Mahoe Bay . Two well-marked trailsleadto JOSTVAN DYKE . Mountain TrunkBay h toBitter EndYacht Club 7am-7pm) ( mains US$8 to $25) mains US$8to$25) Virgin Gorda Rental GordaRental Virgin North Sound North (

x . , is 495-7421, 800-848- (admission free;

located in Buck’s Food , , theis- Nail Bay

eight rooms,arestauranteight andtwobars. It’s warm andcharismatic boutiqueresort with www.sabarock.com; rinclbreakfast US$175-550; www.sabarock.com; dinner US$44.50).Whatever thepretense, (lunch buffet US$22,for themonumental Grillepeople alsocometotheClubhouse bar are open tothepayingpublic.Many surnames, such as Lettsome and Callwood, andCallwood, surnames, such as Lettsome ing religious tyrannyin England. Quaker it becameahomestead for Quakers escap- inthe17th century.Inthe18thcentury base theislandasa (the island’snamesake) used for seafarers andadventurers. ADutch pirate main man.Butmore on him later. and philosopherFoxy theisland’s Callwood, beyond. Alotof thatisduetocalypsonian reputation hasspread of thousands miles 4 sqmilesof butitsgood-time teal-blue sea, with abigpersonality. Itmayonlytake up Jost (pronounced‘yoast’)isalittleisland pop 200 JOST VANDYKE hour. half End. Afree ferry departsGunCreek onthe you definitely shouldmake thetriptoBitter windsurfing, kayakingand much more. the resort’s bountifulequipmentforsailing, clude three of mealsadayandunlimited use in- air-con Rates anddecks;nonehave TVs. and are opentothetradewinds;others have las have hammocks,wrap-aroundverandahs batik bedspreads andteak floors. Somevil- of NorthSound,has85villasadorned with a sporty,all-inclusive resort attheeastend 872-2392; www.beyc.com; dinclmealsUS$860; beach. the four bedroomcottages, allnestledbeside style villas,fromone-bedroom duplexes to isacompoundofMahoe Bay, 12Italian- villasUS$245-450; resort.com; cannon fromthe RMS all theshipwreck bootyonsite, such asthe to arrange pickup)forasipandtocheck out on afree ferry fromGunCreek (calltheresort make theirownrum.Visitors cancomeover Sound resort experience–theowners even the mostlaid-back placetoget yourNorth End Yacht Club, For over 400years anoasis Josthasbeen The water-sports gear andYacht Club EndYachtBitter Club&Resort BayResort Mango On afleckof islandjustoffshore fromBitter Resort Saba RockResort

( x Rhone as 495-5672; www.mangobay (

. ) x , overlooking

( 494-2746, 800- x a 495-9966; as ) isa 407

) , BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS ISLANDS VIRGIN BRITISH BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS built abartogreet them.Thetideebbed found Jost’sunspoiledshores, andFoxy friends to letthegood times roll. vibe. then joinFoxy yourshoes, Kickoff and restaurants, ifthatgives you a hintastothe beach linedwithhammocks andopenairbar- In Jost’sforemost Main settlement, Stisa GREAT HARBOUR your destinationinvolves the wet stuff. You cancalla Great Harbour canhookyouupwithavehicle. Rental Paradise Jeep Getting Around Jost at9:15am and 3pm. to RedHook,StThomas(USVIs).Itleaves StJohn (USVIs)andonward trip toCruzBay, ( On Friday,SaturdayandSunday, Tortola’s WestEndandJost’sGreat Harbour. US$20) .com; roundtrip Ferry New Horizon Getting There&Away some secluded snorkeling sites. NationalParkeast isDiamondCay and miles toreach LittleHarbour. Furthernorth- you reach Goeastforabout2 White Bay. it over thehilltowestforabout 1mile, runs alongJost’ssouthshore. Ifyoufollow the piertotowncenter. Themainroad tlement. It’sabout a10-minute walkfrom side of Great Harbour, theisland’smainset- Tortola. Ferries land atthepieronwest Jost floatsabout4milesnorthwestof Orientation down inSeptember and October. few accommodations.Many shut businesses life isgood.’ Hear, hear! ‘When Main Street isstillabeach, youknow Asmeled bydevelopment. onelocalsays, hills andblindingbeaches remain untram- Keith Richards stopby),theisland’sgreen yachters and Buffet andglitterati (Jimmy and websites, andJostisnosecret to and roadswere cutafew years later. much changed. Electricityarrived in1991 and flowedforaquarter century,andnot scendents of freed Quaker slaves. amongtheislanders, mostlyde- survive 408 x The islandhasnobanksandrelatively localsnowallhaveThough cellphones In thelate 1960sfree-spirited boaters 776-6597 OTVNDK • GetHror JOST VAN DYKE••Great Harbour ; round trip US$50) roundtrip water taxi water

( sails five sails timesdailybetween x ( x 495-9278; www.jostvandykeferry 495-9477; perdayUS$70) (

x makes the half-hour makes thehalf-hour 443-1488, 495-9969) Inter-Island in if

on Jostin1938,andhesinglehandedly put Well, he’sFoxy born (Philiciano) Callwood, long before youarrived: sowhoisthisFoxy? Youprobablyto bemissed. heardabouthim .foxysbar.com; mainsUS$22-35; h ( couple of simpleroomsabove the bakery. aresandwiches forlunch. She alsorents outa bread, coconut andcoffee by8am;burgers and filledwiththescentofsettlement banana bakery youdream about.Christinehasthe with akitchenette and balcony. 9024; [email protected]; aptUS$145; studio apartmentsatthe hasfourlargegracious IvyChinneryMoses events. nightly andannounce channel 16totake reservations restaurants andbars stand-by onVHFradio crews fromvisitingyachts, almostallof the check outwww.foxysbar.com. your man.StopbyFoxy’s Tamarind or Bar businesses. local nextdoorstocksafewstation brochures about 9am-12:30pmSat) Mon-Fri, dives. and youupwithecotours,can set kayakrentals www.jostvandykescuba.com; to dobesidesstopby Foxy his improvisational sang calypsoatthe fresh beers accompany thefood.For years tap Foxy hashisownmicrobrewery onsite, so dinner mainsare mostly meat andseafood. (US$14) andburgers (aboutUS$10),whilethe fareoff theboats.Thelight isamix of rotis and drawamixof islanders andpartyanimals ally Thursday Saturday) inseason through (usu- aweek nights Local bandsplayseveral the islandonmapwiththisbeach bar. pig roast (US$25). come forfresh fishandtheMondaynight atmosphere onitsopen-airpatio. Patrons h ties. Nearby, lobster andlocalfish areseafood; thespecial- delicious one. Theoceanside restaurant serves restaurant andconvenience store rolledinto x o Rudy George runs Bakery Christine’s Since mostof cater Jost’sbusinesses to The On thewaterfront, justeastof Foxy’s, the If youwantthetruelocallowdown,Foxy’s breakfast, lunch&dinner) breakfast &lunch) Other thanhangingout,there’s notmuch 495-9282; mainsUS$17-32; customs office Foxy’s TamarindFoxy’s Bar Ali Baba’s isthekindof out-island (

x ( is onMain St.Thepolice x Rudy’s Mariner’s Rendezvous Rudy’s Mariner’s ( hasalazy,down-island

x 494-3450; JVD Scuba h h 495-9281; mainsUS$5-12; h 495-9280; mainsUS$22-35; Sea Crest Inn Crest Sea lunch &dinner) 8am-6pm) lunch &dinner)

( lonelyplanet.com x h

495-9258; www ( x 8:30am-3:30pm a , which 495-0271; (

x ) , abar, isnot , each 495-

of Virgin Islands’mostpopularstopsfor lonelyplanet.com on meals. own on thebeach ifyou don’twantto cookyour Greg; thefamilyalsoownsa restaurant down ocean views.They’re owned byFoxy’s son unit hasafullkitchen andprivate porch with onasteep hillbackfromthe beach. Each set great-value, white-with-purple-trim villas villasfromUS$150; .perfectpineapple.com; it’sa outs andcoldbeer; Jost institution. Stress-Free drawscrowdsforthecook- Bar Ivan’sbathrooms (fromUS$1000perweek). added acoupleof apartments withprivate bones, which mayexplainwhyIvanrecently The tents, cabinsandfacilitiesare very bare- communal kitchen andcold-water bathhouse. to thebedsandlinens).Everyone shares the tents (beds, linens)andcabins(addelectricity trees), sea-grape equippedhammock between onthebeach,right where youcanstringyour by offering bare sites (thebestof thebunch, backpackers. Ivan,theowner,mixes itup campsites/equipped tents/cabinsUS$20/40/65) Harbour. Great a hilly,one-mile,bun-burning walkfrom entertaining beachtions andhighly bars. It’s thankstoitsmultibudgetstay, lodgingop- ming andanchoring. It’saprimoplaceto and waves, which makes forgoodswim- barrier reef thatshelters thebayfromswells Jost’s mostattractive strandof beach hugsa now. for bar, butthroatissueshave thetunes curtailed WIE BAY WHITE o BayCampground White the project. ‘Thethe project. boatisbuildingacommunity.’ preserves itsculture. trade,andintheprocessJost theystayontheislandandlearnatime-honored their efforts, themfrom strayingintooff-islandtemptations.to keep The societypaystheboysandgirls for the society toconstruct plex, youreally doseea32ftwoodenslooprisingfromtheyard.It’shandiworkof No, it’snotthebooze playingtrickswithyoureyes. Ifyouwalk‘roundbackofFoxy’s com- SHIP AHOY conservation. in late willthenlearntosailthesloop,aswellstudylocalmarinescienceand 2008.The kids Preservation Society The grouphasbeenhammeringawaysince2004;the ‘We’re Gray,thelong-timeresident notbuildingaboat,’saysKevin andshipcaptainwholeads and withtraditionalboat-building toprovide ofanonprofitproject skills Jost’skids It’s part Check Perfect Pineapple Perfect SloopNews JOSTVAN DYKE••WhiteBay

(www.sloopnews.org) (www.jvdps.org)

( Endeavor II x

( x 495-9312, 495-9358; 495-9401; www a . or,more accurately, thelocalteenagers employedbythe ) hassix isone for reports oftheir progress. forreports .sandcastle-bvi.com; dUS$245-295) .sandcastle-bvi.com; west end, a goattrail from Foxy’s Taboo. whirlpool formedbyweird rockoutcrops,via from wind and waves. ing andswimming inwater protected totally steep strandof white perfect sand forsunbath- nesses. Little Harbour’s eastedge hasathin, This isJost’squieter side,withjustafew busi- LITTLE HARBOUR form its ‘walls.’ buoys, life andother beach junk preservers how hegets theplacetoholdtogether –old magicis with hismagictricks,andcertainly this reggae-blasting beach bar. He’ll wowyou by for lunch. Sunday afternoons, whenlotsof yachts stop son. RubenChinnerysingscalypsoonmost gourmet candlelitdinnerforUS$39perper- Therestaurantcocktail. offers afour-course the Painkiller, theBVIs’ delicious-yet-lethal spend wetbills.It’salsothebarthatcreated name fromthesailors swimmingashore to which takes DollarBar, itsfamous Soggy air-conditioning). Thehotel holdsthein- (andonlythehotel roomshaveand TV tages andtwohotel phone rooms,allsans three- orfive-night opening. snaga are butyoumight stays, forweekly with shared commonareas. typically Rentals out beachfront villas,someprivate andsome villasfromUS$200) www.jostvandyke.com; One Love onthebeachRight atWhite Bay’s At Swimmers can reach White BayVillas White Endeavor

( x Sandcastle Hotel 495-9829) isscheduledforcompletion (

x Foxy’s owns sonSeddy 410-571-6692, 800-778-8066; Bubbly Pool

offers fourcot- ( x Bonnie rents 495-9888; www , anatural JVD

409 BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS ISLANDS VIRGIN BRITISH BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS There’s often live fungimusic at night. dinner) no banks, sostockupbefore youget here. tion center fortheisland. Anegadahas informa- asthe unofficial the dock,serves stretch. a lonesome placetohangyourhammock for sun mellow.It’samysterious, magicaland arerants andguesthouses thatbaked-in-the- that different, clutch anditswee of restau- landscape looks on anotherplanet.Itsdesert Virgin Gorda,butyou’ll thinkyou’ve landed this easternmost Virgin, about12 miles from Beauty. of beaches andFlash such asLoblollyBay or snorkel fromridiculouslyblue-watered You candive onmanyof theshipwrecks, that willslayyou(figuratively, of course!). gos, bloomingcactiandgiantrockiguanas Reef. known asHorseshoe were trapped inthesurroundingcoralmaze ittoget theirbearingsuntilthey couldn’t see above thatmariners atitshighest) level sea years –itsunk’em.Theislandissolow(28ft it didtomore than300shipsintheearly for ‘drowned’or‘flooded,’andthat’swhat land takes its name fromtheSpanishword Anegada is a killerisland.Literally. Theis- pop 200 ANEGADA shack byDiamondCay. microbrews. Taboo sitsinascenicdockside tilapia) fordinner,allaccompaniedbyFoxy’s more sophisticated fare lobster-stuffed (say and pepper-jack cheeseburgers forlunch, and dinner) at ain’t doin’ shit.’ herefor sale proclaims‘Time flieswhenyou revelers decorate therafters. ApopularT-shirt yacht crews. T-shirts leftbehind byvisiting rockswithcharter Saturdaynight most nights. and barbecue. Live reggae bandsplayhere up WestIndianspecialties,alongwithburgers ( 410 Sea x Foxy’s TabooFoxy’s Foxy teams upwithhisdaughterJustine onthewater,Right The Anegada Reef Hotel,The AnegadaReef located near The ferry takes only1.5hours toreach pondsrifeToday it’sthesalt withflamin- On theeastsideof theharbor,

( 495-9271; mainsUS$10-25; x NGD • Ws n ANEGADA ••WestEnd to serve easy,breezy dishes such aspizza toserve specializesinWestIndianfishdishes. 495-9329; mainsUS$10-30; ( x 495-0218; mains$13-22; Sidney’s Peace andLove h lunch &dinner) h breakfast, lunch& Abe’sbythe h serves lunch &

Anegada Reef Hotel.Anegada Reef Roadsare unpaved sand Jeep rentals costaboutUS$75perdayatthe Getting Around mile northwestof the Settlement. AugusteTiny George Airportlies1 Captain Tortola’s airportfromUS$155(roundtrip). www.fly-bvi.com) Town, Virgin Gorda,enroute each way. 5pm. Theboatmakes aquickstopatSpanish 3:30pm; itdepartsAnegadaat8:30amand Monday, WednesdayandFridayat7am US$50) trip Smith’s Ferry Getting There&Away eral pristine beaches. Point,thenonwardpastsev- dock atSetting heads westtotheyacht anchorage andferry theroad a smallplace).FromtheSettlement, Anegada’s only‘town’(astrongwordforsuch island’s center andswingsbytheSettlement, casuarinas and coconut trees. visual landmarksexceptforoddclumpsof pancake-flat, theisland’shorizon holdsfew it’sso miles fromnorthtosouth.Because 12 milesfromwesttoeastand,atmost,3 Anegada isacoralatollstretching about Orientation were successfullyreintroduced to theBVIs island ishometo a flockof flamingos,which make arrangements. cling US$50). Ifyou’re interested in day US$50)andecotours (halfdayper person rentals (perdayUS$20),kayakrentals (per boat dives US$150),snorkel (twotanks gear heart desires: shore dives US$125), (twotanks front andcanorganize whatever activityyour .webedivinbvi.com) center. information astheunofficial which serves Hotel, Point, bytheAnegadaReef at Setting If youtake theferry to Anegada, you’llarrive Hotel. Reef US$8) runtothebeaches fromtheAnegada island tourforabout US$50.Shuttles (oneway ferries, andTonywillgive youathree-hour for the most part. WS END WEST Tony’s Taxi Otherwise, The main road starts attheairportin The mainroadstarts The large pondatthewestendof salt the enquire atthehotel’s where office, they’ll We BeDivin’ sails fromRoadTown,Tortolaon sails

( x ( x offers charter from flights sitsontheproperty’sbeach- Fly BVI 494-4454; www.smithsferry.com; round 495-8037)

( x

( x 494-4320, 541-0489;www waitsforinbound 495-1747, 866-819-3146; lonelyplanet.com fishing or cy- Neptune’s Treasure lonelyplanet.com sea-view patio. People book ayearinadvance each withafullyequipped kitchen andbig .anegadavillas.com; villasUS$200) you pitch atent (US$20)in the garden. budgets: ifyouasknicely,theowners willlet on fish andlobster sizzleonthegrill.Forthose A lotof yachts pulluptojointheparty,while beach barhere are Anegada’ssocialepicenter. $30, openforbreakfast, lunch anddinner) the fishingdock,restaurant (mainsUS$8to and two-bedroom villasare nothingfancy,but island fishingcamp.Theproperty’s16rooms by theferry dockhasthefeel of aclassicout- island’s first andlargest lodge hotel, thisseaside .com; rgarden/oceanviewfromUS$175/200; the dining roomratherthanthegreat outdoors. inanair-conditioneddifference: it’sserved other waterfront butwithone establishments, (mains US$18toUS$30)similartheisland’s menu dinner, which hasameat-and-seafood surround arestaurant that’sopenforlunch and and garnerlotsof loyalistpatrons. The rooms sure.com; rfromUS$115; too. available, snorkeling initsshallowwaters; kayaksare the island’snorthwestendandoffers good in the area. egrets, terns andospreys nestingandfeeding youcanalsosee wetlands asabirdsanctuary; designated from 1987.TheBVI NationalParks Trust o Neptune’s isa15-minute walkwestfrom The ninesimple,color-washed roomsat Secluded thing. The quiet.Nobodytotroubleyou.Igetupinthemorninganddon’thave toworryabouta What makesAnegadadifferent fromotherislands? fish. Nowpeoplepayalotofmoneytoeatlobsters. Anotherthing:lobsters.them pink. They were justbaitwhenIwasaboy;weusedthemtocatch Now there are about50flamingoshere onthesaltpond.They eatshrimp,that’swhatmakes never eaten one. Forawhilewehadnoflamingos. Sobiologists broughtin18fromBermuda. We hadmore flamingos. People usedtoshootthemandeatthem.Tastes Ihear. chicken, like I’ve How hastheenvironmentchanged? and buildmore. IbuiltsomeofNeptune’sTreasure andmanyoftheothershopshotels. Whenmyfatherdiedin1981,Icamehometobuildhiscoffin.decidedstayThomas towork. We had500peoplehere whenIwasaboy.Nowthere are about200.Ileft,too. Iwent toSt What changeshave youseenonAnegadaover theyears? Everard Faulkner, aged75,isaretired builderwhowasbornandraisedonAnegada. THE TIMESTHEYAREA-CHANGIN’ Anegada Reef Hotel Anegada Reef Anegada Seaside Villas Anegada Seaside Flamingo Pond Cow Wreck Bay Cow Wreck ANEGADA••EastEnd

( x a (

x 495-9439; www.neptunestrea ) sit right on the sand onthesand sitright 495-8002; www.anegadareef anditssurrounding has seven units, hasseven stretches along (

x 495-9466; www ai ). The The the End.It’sa pictureEast of dead cars (you The EAST END walls; live bandsplayMonday and Tuesday. ster. andT-shirts Graffiti cover theopen-air them ribs,fettuccine, curried shrimp and lob- to make customers feel athomewhileserving biztheretaurant foryears, sohe knows how NewYorkand workedin Queens, intheres- when departingtheferry dock. Potter lived h front plusanislandrarity:a pool table. Pines hasgoodviewsof moored yachts out HotelAnegada Reef andNeptune’sTreasure, suspects. Located onthebeach the between bar-restaurants andoffers theusualseafood h dinner. and on theoutdoorgrill,andisopenforlunch features lobster, conch andshellfishcooked The open-airrestaurant (mainsUS$10to$25) front theperfect, hammock-strewn beach. a rant 495-9461;www.cowwreckbeach.com; villasUS$250-300; grounds at and thewanderingbovines whoshare the Creque collected from local waters). ical relics andshipwreck items ownerWilfred room thatexhibitsabizarre mixof archeolog- toexplorea cool‘museum’ (basicallyaside Pomato PointRestaurant yolk-yellow concrete cottages. Theonsite one-bedroom, inthese tostay season in high Potter’s bytheSea Potter’s WhistlingPines You wantpeaceandquiet?It’lljustbeyou dinner) ) lunch &dinner) . Three sunnyyellow-and-green cottages Settlement isthefirst placeyoustumbleinto Cow Wreck Villas Cow Wreck , Anegada’s onlytown,lies on isoneof theisland’snewer

( x

( x 495-9521; mainsUS$20-40;

495-9182; mains US$25-40; 495-9182; mainsUS$25-40; ( h

( lunch &dinner) x 495-8047, restau-

has 411 BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS ISLANDS VIRGIN BRITISH BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS burgers, conch stew and,yep,lobster (it’s Monica andcrew awaitwithsandwiches, milkshake-esque drinkusing liquors. seven She alsomakes amean‘bushwhacker’ –a usually lower-priced here, aroundUS$40). 441-5815; mainsUS$9-18; shore to and-chips, burgers and pizzas. for herfresh-baked breads, breakfasts, fish- h &SandwichShop Bakery lots of funny-looking fish. a more compactarea butwithbigger coraland FlashofBeauty ( racudas. Attimeof writing,a spread area withspotted eagleraysandbar- Youcansnorkel overthe Settlement. awide- on thenortheastshore, about2 milesfrom ters andbar-restaurants include wild, where they’llsproutto 6ft long. they’re tobereleased backintothe bigenough nursery’s cages togrowsafely. After twoyears, species. Soworkers nowbringthebabesto island’s baby iguanas,endangering therare feralthe facilitybecause catswere eatingthe in.TheParksjust letyourself Truststarted hind thegovernment administrationbuilding; food and supplies. a coupleof shopswhere teensy youcanbuy folks feeding goatsandchickens. There are laundrydryinginthebreeze and them off), can get themontheisland,butyoucan’tget 412 x Locals cometothesmall,tin-roofed After youfinish snorkeling, climbupto Top beaches withthatched-umbrella shel- The during that time. ish, thusthey’re notonmenus(norisconch) through November 1sostocks canreplen- lobster fishingisprohibited fromAugust 15 places charge US$50toindulge. Note that Mosttaurant knowshowmanytostock. by 4pmtoplaceyourordersoeach res- surrounding waters, youmust callahead the critters are fresh plucked fromthe with thechef’ssecret seasonings. Because beach inaconverted oildrumandspiced mondo rite ofpassage. Every restaurant the serves anAnegada Cracking lobster isatourist LOBSTER LOWDOWN breakfast, lunch&dinnerMon-Sat) 549-2019) IETR • Acmoain ••Accommodations DIRECTORY Rock IguanaNursery crustaceans,usuallygrilledonthe Flash ofBeautyRestaurant was set toopen.Snorkeling wasset at , justeastof Loblolly,isthrough h

( x lunch &dinner)

( 495-9667; mainsUS$6-14; x in the Settlement intheSettlement 8am-4pm) kitesurfing facility kitesurfing

( x Loblolly Bay , where sitsbe- 495-8014, Dotsy’s

7% government andoften tax aservice Gorda and at Marina Gorda andatMarina Cay, Tortola. atYacht.com) Offices Bay,Virgin HarbourandLeverick oe tx, p416. text, boxed the information onhowtoget onboard,see Sailing istheBVIs’ mainclaimtofame. For ACTIVITIES charge of 10%to 15% more. April15 through peak season. requirementsstay duringtheDecember15 Some propertieshave three-night minimum ( ‘Jewels’ andhasaspecialtelephone number it breaks outlocallyownedpropertiesas provides lodginginformationonitswebsite; resorts. The aswellswanky erately pricedguesthouses cially onTortola,where youcanfindmod- range of accommodationsavailable, espe- One of thebestthingsaboutBVIs isthe DIRECTORY fish and chicken. and specializesinislandrecipes forlobster, ner) Bamboo .com) At Hodges Creek Marina, .com) AtHodges Creek Marina, Tortola. Sail Caribbean Marina, Reef AtProspect tortola.com) Tortola. Tortola Dive BVI Dive safety. and tors fortheirprofessionalism, friendliness dive,tank US$110 for two tanks. topayaboutsites. US$80foraone- Expect p398 forinformationonthisandothertop cluding thewreck of theRMS plentiful andallgotothegoodspots,in- buoys. Safe, professional dive operators are and there are lotsof permanentmooring isabigdealhere, keling sites. Conservation coral andawidevarietyof dive andsnor- underwateroutstanding visibility,healthy water,crystal-clear which inturnprovide of coves,paradise secluded calmshores and The islandshuddletoformasheltered Diving &Snorkeling ACCOMMODATIONS x We recommend thefollowingdive opera- anadded hotelOn every bill,you’llsee popularrestaurant-barAubrey Levons’ is onthebeach westend atLoblolly Bay’s 866-468-6284) formore information.

( ( x x ( Book yourstayonlineatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 495-2019; mainsUS$14-25; 495-5513, 800-848-7078;www.divebvi x ( BVI Tourist Board Tourist BVI x 494-9200, 800-353-3419; www.dive 495-1675; www.sailcaribbeandivers (www.bvitourism.com)

h Rhone lunch &din- ; see ; see Big

Offices in Road Town, Tortola and Setting Point, andSetting inRoadTown,Tortola Offices Anegada. The BVIs offer idealconditionsforbeginner Surfing &Windsurfing We BeDivin’ lonelyplanet.com a lotof familiesaround the marinas. big yachting destination, you’llsee andsailing thisissuch a Because and babysittingservices. dren. Many resorts have children’s programs The BVIs are anexcellentdestinationfor chil- CHILDREN Shops Restaurants Post offices Friday to offices Government Bars &pubs Banks down entirely inSeptember and October. shut onSunday andmanybusinesses close BVIGeneral hours are below.Many places BUSINESS HOURS for any sailor. guide Nancy andSimonScott,istheessential by the Islands Cookbook: Casual&Elegant Recipes Inspired rant (see p402 ), filltheir Sugar MillHotelacclaimedrestau- andhighly Tucker Abbott andPercy A Morris. and GulfCoasts andthe West Indies tors canuse Doyle Guide) & Animalsof the Eastern (AChris Caribbean and Rafaela Ricoof &the Puerto Virgin Islands Birders should check out BOOKS offers boardrentals fromUS$37 per day. per three-hour session. rentals andlessonsforapproximately US$100 BVIBoardsailing ( p402 ) offer windsurfing and pecially off AppleBay Josiah’s Bay. reliable swells fromNovember toMarch, es- surfers 15 knots.Tortola’snorthcoastserves and safe, thewindsaverage agentle 10to windsurfers.and seasoned Thewater iswarm 2pm, dinner5pm to 9pm to noonSaturday Friday TheCruising Guidetothe Virgin Islands, Jinx andJeff Morgan, owners of Tortola’s On Tortola,IslandSurf&Sail( p399 ) and

h h 9am to5pmMondaySaturday 9am to3pmMondayThursday,5pm

h

h ( h x The Nature of the Islands:Plants A Field GuidetoShells: Atlantic byVirginia Shell Barlow. collec- with delicious recipes. 8:30am to 4pm Monday to Friday, 9am 8:30am to4pmMondayFriday, noon to midnight breakfast 7amto11am,lunch11am 494-4320; www.webedivinbvi.com) DIRECTORY ••Books DIRECTORY

h 8:30am to4:30pmMonday

Last StopSports( Last p396 ) Sugar Mill Caribbean A Guidetothe Birds byHerbert byR by April and provides a time-honored excuse toswillbeer,sip andprovides atime-honored April racesinearly features daysof small-andlarge-craft seven It biggest parties. races hasbecomeoneof theCaribbean’s yacht myriad regatta.org) Thegranddaddy ofTortola’s BVI Spring Regatta Regatta Spring BVI Festival GordaEaster Virgin throughout the year. Studio ( p402 ), there are bigdraws several vals atBomba’sShack ( p401 ) andAragorn’s As wellasTortola’s monthlyfull-moonfesti- FESTIVALS &EVENTS ( p385 consular ) ifyouneed assistance. in theBVIs. Head totheUSVirgin Islands There are noforeign embassiesorconsulates EMBASSIES &CONSULATES you. with nate part of life; you’llwantgoodbugspray fleasare andsand anunfortu- Mosquitoes ful of wanderingcattle,especially atnight. lers applyhere. Drivers shouldbecare- the usualrulesof cautiousconductfortrave- The BVIs have littlestreet crime. Nevertheless, DANGERS &ANNOYANCES atUS$15 yourhandsstarting off per hour. They’ll cometoyourhotel ortake thekids bytrained,professional nannies. services 6493; www.tropicalnannies.com) p406. see April; or holidayinMarch celebration surroundingtheChristian On Virgin Gorda,

„ „ „ „ PRACTICALITIES

is measured ingallons. Distances are infeet andmiles;gasoline Weights &Measures flat, oneround)pins. style plugshave two(flat)orthree (two Electricity Channel 5,thelocal-accesschannel. news,check cane coverage. TV ForBVIs international news,weatherandhurri- WOSO,at1030AM,Puerto Rico’s has reggae) andZVCR(106.9FM, Caribbean). stations, includingZWAVE (97.3FM, Radio &TV Times Beacon weekly newspapersare Newspapers &Magazines listsweeklyentertainment. and 110 volts; North American– 110volts;North There are seven radio StandPoint ( x 494-3286; www.bvispring Tropical Nannies provides babysitting Imperialsystem. ( x . The free Island Sun, 495-5181) Three-day 495-5181) Three-day The three Limin’

BVI

( x

413 495- BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS ISLANDS VIRGIN BRITISH BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS Hook-In-Hold-On races. inlateJuneforthe convergeontheBVIs .com) Windsurfers butare nonebiggerthan sailingevents, hosts several to Foxy’sregatta inlateMay; see p400 . Bay,leadingup wailatCaneGarden .info) Big-nameacts East End, celebrating its African-Caribbean East End,celebratingitsAfrican-Caribbean heritage. rocksfromtheWestEndto the thistime,Tortola During two weeksattheendofJulyandbeginningAugust. and heavy partying. drawn inclassicwoodenyachtsforfourdaysoflightracing Since1974 theannualregatta has inlateMay. weekend Day overtheUSMemorial regatta, heldoffJostvan Dyke British Virgin Islands Virgin British INTERNET RESOURCES Access isnotcommon in hotels. are Rates about US$5perhalfhour.sections. placesinthechapter’sseveral Information net cafésnearthemainmarinas;we’ve listed On TortolaandVirgin Gorda you’llfindinter- INTERNET ACCESS Day Boxing Day Christmas St Ursula’sDay Festival Days BVI Territory Day Birthday Sovereign’s Whit Monday Monday Easter Good Friday Commonwealth Day New Year’s Day HOLIDAYS among gay couples. publicdisplaysofyou likely affection tosee many‘out’gaysorlesbians,norareto meet lifestyle are slowtocrumble. Youare notlikely in theBVIs are onthe gay,WestIndiantaboos While afairnumberof islanders andtravelers GAY &LESBIANTRAVELERS Eve. Year’s national reputation astheplacetobeonNew Jost vanDyke alsohasgarnered aninter- EmancipationFestival BVI HIHO Spring Highland WoodenboatRegatta Foxy’s Festival Music BVI from around the world. withsailorsandcrew rum, listentolivemusicandparty 414 ist Board’sofficial website. August IETR • Gy&LsinTaees &Lesbian Travelers ••Gay DIRECTORY December 26 Friday before Easter (in March orApril) before Easter(inMarch Friday May or June(datevaries) May July 1 October 21 October December 25 January1 April First MondaytofirstWednesday in ( x Second Monday inMarch Second June(datevaries) (www.bvitourism.com) BVI Tour- BVI (www.bvitourism.com) ( 495-3378; www.bvimusicfest x ( 494-7963; www.go-hiho x ( x 494-3134) Occursover 495-9258) Foxy

this anchorages, beaches,divingsites and more. magazinethatlists Online versionofthefree tourist Town andsmallregional atCane offices Tortola hasfive oneatRoad postoffices, The BVIs have service. theirownpostal POST there’s nothingonthe other islands. Spanish Townhasacoupleof banks,but networks (Plus,Cirrus,Exchange etc). Town, withATMs hooked intoworldwide PopularinRoad andBanco Caribbean Scotiabank,FirstYou’ll findFirstBank, theBVIs. throughout The USdollarisused MONEY islands have small,part-time clinics. St; 3497; Main The BVIs’ onlyhospital, MEDICAL SERVICES for should suffice driving trips. Board ( above ). Itcovers alltheislandsand Pick upafree roadmapattheBVI Tourist MAPS Limin’ Times Foxy’s WelcomeMagazine BVI Beacon BVI elsewhere, dialyourcountry’sinternational dial the islands.TocallfromNorthAmerica, localnumberonjust dialtheseven-digit The BVIs countrycodeis TELEPHONE US$0.35/0.40/0.50. cost Australia costUS$0.50/0.60/0.75;postcards lands have none. Letters totheUSA/Europe/ End. Virgin Gordahastwo. Theotheris- EndandWest East Bay, Carrot Garden Bay, local bandsare playing. website, withnewsupdates. Jost info(datedbutstill useful).

„ „ „ „ EMERGENCY NUMBERS

x x Virgin IslandsSearch &Rescue Police Fire Ambulance (www.foxysbar.com) Theman,thelegend,provides 1 +284thelocalnumber. From 767, VHF16

x (www.bvibeacon.com) h x (www.limin-times.com) Whenandwhere 999, 911 24hr) 999 or911 x , isinRoadTown.Theother 999, 911 (www.bviwelcome.com) Peebles Hospital

x The localnewspaper’s lonelyplanet.com 284, butyou ( x

494- numbers; beginwith these h h or number inBVIs listingsin this chapter. We’ve local includedonlytheseven-digit dialing codethen lonelyplanet.com as it’skeen togive jobs to locals. issueworkpermitseasily, ernment doesn’t work withoutapermit intheBVIs. Thegov- (naturalized citizens)canOnly Belongers WORK alone at night. your surroundings,especiallywhen walking you wouldinabigcityathome:be aware of BVIs. degree thesame of Justuse caution It’s safe forwomentotravel solo in the WOMEN TRAVELERS Department (www.ukvisas.gov.uk) yournearesthtml), contact .org.uk/nationals_requiring_a_visa.asp. exemptionqualify forvisa (check www.bvi not days orless.Ifyourhomecountrydoes toenter avisa theBVIsnot need for30 Visitors frommostWestern countriesdo VISAS toward travelers with disabilities. geareddo nothave anyspecificservices The BVIs are notparticularlyaccessibleand TRAVELERS WITHDISABILITIES Gorda Virgin Tortola islands. the or stopintooneof onceyou’re itsoffices on orwww.bvi.org.uk) www.bvitourism.com the Contact the world to call. BVIs are oneof themostexpensive placesin pay phonesare difficult to find. Working provide thelocalcellularservice. GlobalandDigicel time totheUS).CCT US$0.30perminutetime (atroughly calling about US$20,which includesUS$10of air cards are available atlocalshops. Theycost TUIT INFORMATION TOURIST Many alsohave businesses toll-free Be preparedBe forwhoppingcharges –the GSM phonesworkontheislands.SIM x 9am-5pm Mon-Sat,10am-2pmSun)InSpanish Town. 8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) In 8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) Road Town. 877. ( x 494-3134; DeCastro St, Akara Bldg; 494-3134; DeCastroSt,Akara

( ( x x BVI Tourist Board Tourist BVI 494-3471). TRANSPORTATION There &Away ••Getting 495-5181; Yacht Harbourmall; orthe x 284 +thelocalnumber. BVI Immigration BVI x ( pre-departure, British embassy British x 800, 800-835-8530; x 888 St-Martin/Sint St-Martin/Sint Maarten .com) San Juan www.seaborneairlines.com) St Thomas shine.com) San Juan .com) San Juan Tortola. Oneortwo ships typically arrive shipscallat RoadTown’sharboronCruise CRUISE SHIP WinAir Airlines Seaborne LIAT Air Cape Eagle American Air Sunshine airlines flyingto/from the BVIs: Puerto Rico,StThomasorAntigua. Some usuallyvia hubsintheCaribbean, through orEurope. connect Flights the USA,Canada facility onAnegadafor charter flights. Auguste George Airportisatiny and Captain x Tortola. Island,off Beef the BVIs’ mainairport;it’samodernfacilityat LettsomeAirport International The BVIs have three airports. Air Virgin GordaandJost Van Dyke. Town andWestEndonTortola, the dock;there are inRoad customshouses customs house ferry a fromtheUSVIs,you’llclearthrough slow-moving process.Ifyou’re arrivingona There’s noreason why,otherthanit’sjusta can take ahalfhourorsotoclearcustoms. and proof of that’srare. funds,though It areturn ticket asktosee might Officials (see avisa some nationalitiesalsoneed left ). Everyone apassporttoenter needs theBVIs; Entering theBritishVirginIslands GETTING THERE&AWAY TRANSPORTATION Sea Sea There are nodirect to theBVIs flights from rately attheairport. price,andmustbepaidsepa- in theticket leave byair. theBVIs This isnotincluded taxtoYou mustpayaUS$20departure DEPARTURE TAX –AIR 495-5621) ( x ( x ( 340-774-2313; www.liatairline.com)Antigua x 494-2347, 495-1298;www.fly-winair.com) isasmallfacilitywithrestaurant, ( 495-2100, 800-352-0714;www.flycapeair x

( ( x x 495-8900, 888-879-8900;www.airsun ( x 494-3864; www.bviports.org) 495-2559, 800-433-7300;www.aa 340-773-6442, 888-359-8687; Virgin Gorda Airport GordaAirport Virgin

(EIS; x Terrence B 494-3701) near 415

(VIJ; (VIJ;

is BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS ISLANDS VIRGIN BRITISH BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS at the Baths. on theferry to Virgin Gordatotake alook theyhop beach, orelse Garden Bay Cane ment. Many passengers to flockviataxis gers quicklyoverwhelm thesmallsettle- each dayduringwinter, andtheirpassen- 416 Crewed Boats Virgin Gordaoffers beginnertoadvancedcourses. Road Town, Tortola. Road Town,Tortola. Offshore SailingSchool Bitter EndSailingSchool Sunsail SailingVacations Sailing Vacations Ed Hamilton&Co 6017; www.bvicrewedyachts.com) People foracrewed-yacht the vacationcancontact looking MarineTortola Management Sunsail Yacht Charters Moorings Horizon Yacht Charters Catamaran Company Charters (www.sailmag.com) Road Town. the company’srepresentatives. Cay 2in MostcompaniessailoutoftheMooringsatWickhams companiesdependontheirreputations.Charter Ask forreferences with andspendtimetalking Choosing aCompany pleasantly surprised. is amisconceptionthatsailingtooexpensive; onceyou doalittleresearch youmightbe trips atwill. orshopping spotsandaddondiving,hiking look forquietanchoragesorheadtheparty The ofasailingvacationisthatyoucansailorstayputaslongwant,Tortola. attraction with captain,cookandcrew. oramorecrew luxuriouscrewed butfullyequipped)withorwithoutaskipper; complete charter, come todojustthat. the islandsoneofeasiestplacestosail,whichexplainswhymore thanathirdofallvisitors Channel, andhundreds ofanchorages,eachwithinsightoneanother. These make factors in thewayoftidesorcurrents, aprotected SirFrancisDrake thoroughfare inthe35-mile-long The provide BVIs itall:ayear-round balmyclimate, steady tradewinds,little to worryabout YACHT CHARTER BASICS Catamaran Company reputable brokers. whoknowindividualboatsandtheir crews. bybrokers also booked The followingisalistof Sailing Schools RNPRAIN • etn hr wy TRANSPORTATION There &Away ••Getting For an up-to-date list of services, pricesandequipmentcheckthe For anup-to-date listofservices, aboatdependsonthevessel’sThe costofchartering size andagethetimeofyear. It A typicalweek-long circumnavigating itinerary involves sampling theislands,whilepartially If youwanttosail,there are three basicoptions:asailingschool;bareboat (bare charter of ( x 494-2331, 888-952-8420;www.moorings.com) . ( ( x x ( ( 495-4740, 888-350-3568;www.sunsail.com) x x 800-621-7855; www.ed-hamilton.com) ( ( x ( x x ( ( 494-6661, 800-262-0308;www.catamaranco.com) 494-6661, 800-262-0308;www.catamaranco.com) x x 495-4740, 888-350-3568;www.sunsail.com) , anoverarching tradegroupfortheindustry.Crewed boatsare 494-8787, 877-494-8787;www.horizonyachtcharters.com) 800-221-4326; www.offshore-sailing.com) Has learn-to-cruise coursesoutof Haslearn-to-cruise 800-221-4326; www.offshore-sailing.com) ( 494-2745, 800-872-2392;www.beyc.com) TheBitterEndYacht Club( p407 ) on 800-327-2276; www.sunsail.com) x 494-2751, 800-633-0155;www.sailtmm.com) Tortola, Virgin GordaandJostVan Dyke with There are excellent ferry connectionslinking FERRY and individual lines. See See p830 formore informationoncruises BVI Charter Yacht Society Sail magazinewebsite lonelyplanet.com ( x 494- alternate departure timesintraveling from and BVIs and USVIs. have a valid passporttotravel the between the USVIs’StThomasandJohn. Youmust lonelyplanet.com ferry service that’s easytonavigate, despite ferry service The islands have afrequent andinexpensive Boat out the Caribbean. only withintheBVIs buttoislands through- .com) plane. islandsyou’ll haveTo flybetween tocharter a Air service. bus locals.Noneofmeet the islandshaspublic islandsandagreat between tation wayto Ferries are theprimarymodeof transpor- a rideas crew member. would begoodforenquiringabout hitching Point.Anyofthey’re places these atSetting they cluster atGreat Harbour; andinAnegada at Yacht Harbour nearSpanish Town;inJost 2;inVirgin Gordatheycluster Cay Wickhams they cluster inRoadTownattheMoorings Lots of yachts driftintotheBVIs. InTortola Sunday (roundtripUS$60, 75 minutes). oncedailyonThursday and with service (StJohn), Hook (StThomas)viaCruzBay also operatesVirgin between GordaandRed (round tripUS$50,45minutes). Inter-Island twice dailyonFriday,SaturdayandSunday (StJohn). Ferriesvia CruzBay theroute sail Jost Van Dyke andRedHook(StThomas) utes) via three timesdaily(roundtripUS$45,30min- travel (StJohn) fromWestEndtoCruzBay Son (round tripUS$45,30minutes) with Red Hook(StThomas)fourtofive timesdaily (round tripUS$49, 50 minutes). .com) Town Fast Ferry (round tripUS$45,about 60minutes). on StThomas,first stoppingatWestEnd Road TowntodowntownCharlotte Amalie GTIG AROUND GETTING YACHT Smith’s Ferry Inter-Island makes limited runsbetween Ferries travel fromWestEnd(Tortola)to

( isawell-regarded companythatfliesnot x makes thetriptoCharlotte Amaliedirect Native Son Native Fly BVI 495-4617; www.nativesonbvi.com). Inter-Island

( x

( ( ( x x TRANSPORTATION Around ••Getting x 495-1747, 866-819-3146;www.fly-bvi 494-2323; www.roadtownfastferry 495-4617; www.nativesonbvi.com) 494-4454; www.smithsferry.com)

( x 495-4166) . Ferries also Native Native Road

Smith’s Ferry between Tortola’sWest EndandJost’sbetween ferry.com; round trip US$20) ferry.com; roundtrip your car. Chickens anddogsdart inandout winding roads are often widthas thesame prepared forsomecrazyconditions. Steep, way toget around individualislands,butbe Driving isundoubtedly the mostconvenient Car Harbour. Great Ferry New Horizon WEST ENDTOJOSTVAN DYKE hourly (roundtripUS$25, 30 minutes). Spanish Town,Virgin Gordaalmosthalf- RoadTown,Tortolaand run tripsbetween Speedy’s ROAD TOWNTOSPANISH TOWN Town, Virgin Gorda, each way. 5pm. Theboatmakes aquickstopatSpanish 3:30pm; itdepartsAnegadaat8:30amand Monday, WednesdayandFridayat7am US$50) trip Smith’s Ferry ROAD TOWNTOANEGADA required. are (one wayUS$20,15minutes). Reservations Bay way US$35,45minutes) andLeverick way US$25,20minutes), Bitter End(one Virgin Gorda,stoppingattheValley (one Tortola’s airport)tothenorthendof Island(near ries fromTrellis onBeef Bay SoundExpress North BEEF ISLANDTONORTHSOUND ing a yacht. arebut theessentials listed here. ing the printed inmost of thetourismguides,includ- convoluted schedules. Thefullschedules are See See opposite forinformationoncharter- ture tax. Cruise shippassengerspayaUS$7depar- chapter have thetaxalready factored in. tax). The ferry priceslisted throughoutthis theairdeparture price(unlike your ticket byferry.the BVIs This isusuallyincludedin taxtoleaveYou mustpayaUS$5departure DEPARTURE TAX –BOAT

BVI WelcomeGuide BVI sails fromRoadTown,Tortolaon sails ( x

( x 495-5240; www.speedysbvi.com) ( x 494-4454; www.smithsferry.com; round

494-4454; www.smithsferry.com) ( x

( x sails five sails times daily 495-9278; www.jostvandyke 495-2138) (www.bviwelcome.com) runsfer- and 417

,

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS ISLANDS VIRGIN BRITISH BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS per day and can run as high asUS$90,butper dayandcanrunashigh rates beginatabout US$55 High-season jeeps. cies ontheislands.Often thevehicles are There are goodlocalcar-rental several agen- RENTAL smiths on the islands. yourkeys;ful nottolose there are nolock- care- they flaptheirarmoutthewindow.Be are abouttodosomething(stop,turnetc), the road.Watch fortheflap:whendrivers is ontheleft-handsideof the vehicle. cars comefromtheUS,sosteering wheel goats? Drivingisontheleft-handside. Most of theroadwayand,oh, didwemention the 418 Drivers often stopdeadinthemiddleof RNPRAIN • etn rud TRANSPORTATION Around ••Getting West EndTaxi Association Taxi Stand Waterfront TaxiBVI Association Beef IslandTaxi Association are listed throughout this chapter). have meters; fares are rates (manyof set which to 12passengers; others are vans.Taxis donot andawnings,abletocarryup with bench seats renting acar. are theopen-airvariety, Several Taxis are convenient ifyou’re andessential not Taxi information. local car-rental companiesandtheircontact for Aroundsection each island’sGetting See you’ll get abetter rental. priceforaweekly ( x ( x 494-3942) ( x 494-6362) ( x 495-4934) 495-1982) lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake

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