October 2020

OCTOBER 2020

Maryland l Washington, DC

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FEATURES 26 06 34 STAYING AHEAD OF WINE AUCTIONS PIVOT: NEW PRODUCTS 14 THE STORM The booming success of & PROMOTIONS UNITED MALTS Portugal emerges as a global remote auctions is OF AMERICA leader in responding to the transforming the 38 Ten rising stars charting climate threat fine wine market PROPRIETOR PROFILE: creative new paths—and S & W Liquors ... pushing for inclusivity—in Celebrating 50 Years 30 the world of wine, spirits, DEPARTMENTS BRAND PROFILE: and beer Crillon’s Two Stars ... 02 Absente & Barbancourt 22 PUB PAGE CANNED COCKTAILS COVID-19: More Numbers ARE CRUSHING IT 32 Bartenders and craft BRAND PROFILE: 04 distillers are revolutionizing J. Lohr ... BRAND PROFILE: the fast-growing RTD Bounceback to Basics category with bar-quality Nikita Corn Vodka ... cocktails in a can Ukrainian Gold

VOLUME82NUMBER10 October 2020 BEVERAGE JOURNAL 1 PUB Maryland l Washington, DC PAGE

COVID-19: MORE NUMBERS

The beverage alcohol industry is con- Published Monthly by sidered one of the most recession-proof (no The Beverage Journal, Inc. pun intended) in America. According to (USPS# PE 783300) David Ozgo, Senior Vice President, Eco- nomic and Strategic Analysis at the Distilled Over 80 Years of Continuous Publication Spirits Council of the U.S. (DISCUS), during BEVERAGE JOURNAL, INC. economic downturns, overall consumption producers have seen their sales soar, while others have seen them decimated. President / Publisher Stephen Patten of beverage alcohol wouldn’t change much: [email protected] beer and wine sales Some numbers 410.796.5455 would rise and from the onset of Board of Directors Lee W. Murray liquor sales would the lockdowns: Thomas W. Murray decline. Demand tequila saw the Information Technology Peter Williams for budget and mid- biggest spike, up Director [email protected] more than 75%, priced spirits would EDITORIAL increase, while de- wine sales were up Senior Editor Kristen Bieler mand for high-end 66% and beer sales, [email protected] super-premium and in a reversal of the Managing Editor W. R. Tish [email protected] ultra-premium spirits usual recession con- would diminish. sumption pattern, Contributing Editors Alia Akkam, Arielle Albert, Keven Danow, Edward Durgin Simply stated, the lagged even though David Lincoln Ross, amount of beverage they still rose 42%. Ed McCarthy, Jack Robertiello alcohol purchased Overall, sales of ART & DESIGN doesn’t change, beverage alcohol Creative Director Larry Lee however the dollars soared by 58% for [email protected] Senior Designer Jeff Tsui spent and products the week ending [email protected] purchased changes March 21, according TECHNOLOGY & WEB dramatically. to Nielsen. eCommerce Director Ian Griffith On-premise Obviously, these [email protected] eCommerce Managers Karli Del Rossi, Evan Berube sales would decline. sales were signifi- Online Web Programming Vali Balescu While off-premise cantly dominated by sales would off-premise retailers. PRINT & PRODUCTION increase. From Print Services Manager Lee Stringham It’s estimated [email protected] the standpoint of that 85% to 95% of 410.519.7034 a producer, they COVID BUSTER bars and over 80% PRICING ADVERTISING & MARKETING would roughly sell of sit-down restau- 1 CS-$80 / 3.33 BOTTLE MD & DC Advertising Sales Stephen Patten the same amount, 3 CS-$70.50 / 2.94 BOTTLE rants initially closed. [email protected] only the distribu- 410.796.5455 Since March 1, tion channel would National Advertising Sales Jody Slone-Spitalnik Ask your OPICI rep for details: the U.S. restaurant change. [email protected] 800.562.3771 industry has lost 212.571.3232 Joseph Micallef Case of 24-200 ml 7% ABV more than three of Forbes crunched million jobs and $25 some data, "In billion (yes, billion, 2018, off-premise with a B) in sales. It's estimated that 20% of POSTMASTER: Send address changes to sales of liquor in the U.S. represented around bars and restaurants will never reopen. THE BEVERAGE JOURNAL, INC. $113 billion, about 47% of alcohol sales. So here we are at six months to "Flatten P.O. Box 159, Hampstead, MD 21074-0159 On-premise sales represented $147 billion in the Curve". A far cry from the original 15 The Maryland Beverage Journal, the Washington, DC Beverage Journal and the sales, about 53%." Delaware Beverage Journal are registered trademarks of Beverage Journal, Inc. days we were asked to accept. Is this current All rights reserved. So far, the impact of COVID-19 on U.S. situation acceptable? I fear the reason we are Periodicals postage paid at Baltimore, MD and additional mailing offices. Subscription rates: MD edition; 1 year $45.00 plus tax, 2 years beverage alcohol sales has been different where we are is that for too many the answer $75.00 plus tax, 3 years $100.00 plus tax, FedEx Ground delivery $85.00 plus from the experiences in past recessions. Bev- has been (unfortunately), 'yes, this is accept- tax per year per edition, single copies $10.00 plus tax. DC edition; 1 year $36.00 plus tax, 2 years $60.00 plus tax, 3 years $83.00 plus tax, FedEx Ground delivery erage alcohol sales initially spiked significant- able'. n $85.00 plus tax per year per edition, single copies $5.00 plus tax. ly, but the impact has been uneven. Some STEPHEN PATTEN The opinions expressed by guest columnists are their own and not necessarily those of The Beverage Journal, Inc. The Beverage Journal, Inc. is an affirmative PUBLISHER action/equal opportunity corporation. Copyright 2020 the Beverage Journal, Inc. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Not responsible for unsolicited material or advertising claims. 2 BEVERAGE JOURNAL October 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com BeverageJournalInc.com

BRAND PROFILE

NIKITA CORN VODKA

UKRAINIAN GOLD

he story of Nikita Corn Vodka starts but undergoes a series of transformations to conform to the during the Cold War Era when the highest standards. “For example, if a batch has a high ferrous content it will go through the oxygen ‘shower’ to oxidize the then Premier of the Soviet Union excess into a sediment. After reverse osmosis purification the Nikita Khrushchev, impressed by the water gets a final treatment to achieve a perfect pH balance and T mineral composition,” explained Khizder. corn agriculture in the U.S., sought to plant corn throughout all the regions of the country- The ingredients deemed the highest quality are then married to give birth to a 40% ABV liquid that goes through a four-stage -even in Siberia. filtration--a mixture of birch and beech activated charcoal, which The idea proved to be mostly a disaster, but not for Ukraine. frees the vodka from undesirable aldehydes and esters. Once fil- Corn is considered the "gold" of Ukraine. It is one of the main tration is complete the mixture is left to rest for at least 72 hours. agricultural crops. There are ideal conditions for its cultivation, Before bottling, Nikita Corn Vodka undergoes a physico- including fertile Ukrainian chernozem (soil rich in minerals and chemical quality check in a modern laboratory, and an organo- high moisture retention capacity). leptic check by a technician. Then, on the bottling production Corn is the second best-selling grain crop in the world (after line, each bottle is examined and only after complete compari- wheat). Today Ukraine (now an independent country) is one of son with the reference sample is Nikita Corn Vodka made avail- the three global leaders in the exportation of corn and one of able for distribution. the largest producers of non-GMO corn. Khizder concluded, “At Interbalt Products Corp. we live by The discovery of corn spirits in the the famous Occam’s Razor principle; ‘Don't multiply the agents 1960s in the USSR (with minimal levels in a theory beyond what's necessary.’ of aldehydes, oils, and esters) made the Striving to achieve perfection we were idea of creating high quality alcohol pos- in pursuit of a perfect vodka … pure, sible. There is much agreement that zea great tasting and healthy. Twenty years of luxurians (yellow corn) produce alcohol searching, trials and errors have paid off. of the highest quality. The corn grown in We finally found one of the best products, Ukraine is non-GMO and has been used in our humble professional opinion.” to produce LUX class spirits according to The taste of Nikita Corn Vodka has the Ukrainian Research Institute of Alcohol shades of corn bread, poppy seeds and and Food Biotechnology. pure artesian water. It gives a dry after- “Our grain neutral spirit starts from taste of a medium duration. n a proprietary recipe of the finest corn mash distilled seven times in column stills, creating a cleaner, higher-purity distillate without any presence of methyl alcohol,” The Roswell and Elizabeth Garst Farmstead explained Konstantin Khizder of Interbalt in Guthrie County, Iowa, was visited in the Products Corp. 1950s by Soviet premier Nikita Khrushchev Artesian water collected from a 300- as part of his corn agriculture research for the foot deep well within granite bedrock is Soviet Union. One such visit made the cover not distilled (which is the usual practice), of LIFE magazine.

4 BEVERAGE JOURNAL October 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

WINE AUCTIONS PIVOT—PROFITABLY— TO THE VIRTUAL WORLD

HOW THE BOOMING SUCCESS OF REMOTE AUCTIONS IS TRANSFORMING THE FINE WINE MARKET

BY ALIA AKKAM

n July, Chicago’s Hart Davis Hart Wine Co. held an auction for the powerhouse New York restaurant Del Posto. All of the 3,422 lots, including vintage Quintarelli, Sassicaia, and a full case of 1999 Case Basse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, were sold, with 80 percent of the lotsI selling for quite a lot more than was predicted. Overall, the Del Posto Collection raked in $5.7 million, far surpassing the estimated total of between $3 and $4.5 million.

It was “one of the most comprehensive the cellars of Danny Meyer’s Union Square collections of Italian wine in the world,” says Hospitality Group (Gramercy Tavern, the Marc Smoler, senior vice president of client Modern, Union Square Café, Maialino, and services at Hart Davis Hart, noting that the Marta in New York), was auctioned via a sheer number of quality bottles, combined partnership between USHG HUGS, the with the cachet of the restaurant, made for company’s nonprofit employee relief fund, “a very competitive auction.” As Hart Davis and White Plains, New York-based Zachys Hart gears up for its first Hong Kong-based Wine Auctions. All of the lots, bottles of sale this winter, Smoler is optimistic. Margaux and Selosse among them, were At the restaurant Del Posto's auction this summer, The auction business is booming. spoken for. The final yield of $905,907 was more than three out of every four lots sold for over the Another restaurant collection, culled from much higher than the $592,610 estimate. estimated selling price. PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF HART DAVIS HART WINE COURTESY COMPANY PHOTOGRAPHY OF HART DAVIS

6 BEVERAGE JOURNAL October 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

WINE AUCTIONS

“The digital tools enable us to reach a much broader, younger, and more dynamic market while we continue to enjoy the support of our traditional clients.”

– Jamie Ritchie, Sotheby’s Wine

of Washington Wines (AWW), which went Forced, like so many events during the pandemic, to go virtual for the first time this year: “We virtual, Willamette Valley wineries turned their annual live aucion into a multi-week affair. saw people register and tune in who are During the pandemic, the auction new to the Auction of Washington Wines, behemoth Sotheby’s Wine presented five including many from across the country.” Kong time). All of Zachys typical pre- single-owner auctions that totaled more According to Acker chairman John auction dinners have morphed into Zoom than $26 million, selling at 50 percent above Kapon, “The first six months of 2020 or al fresco lunches. Most importantly, the low estimate. In the first seven months showed that buyers continued their hunt adds Antin, “Our sales have been so of the year, the total for wine and spirits for fine wine at an even higher rate, with a strong, we’ve kept with our years-long sales exceeded $45 million, with $24 million 33 percent increase in the number of overall plan to open in London on September 12, generated online. Acker, the historic New bidders in auctions compared with 2019, with ‘bidding parties’ in countries all over York wine merchant and auction house, and 1,679 New World Records set overall.” the world, so people can get together and also saw a notable spike in business, totaling Acker’s auctions were “live online.” Due still be in small groups while they bid.” more than $50 million in worldwide sales to popular demand, the company added during the first half of 2020, outpacing its another Hong Kong auction to the calendar CREATING A RICH VIRTUAL nearest competitor by 50 percent. in July. EXPERIENCE Although the online format greatly Sotheby’s Wine statistics from January- In 2016, the Willamette Valley Wineries diminishes the rarefied air that’s July 2020 reveal that more than 1,000 bidders Association (WVWA) launched Willamette: synonymous with an auction, it enables from 40 countries purchased 67 percent of The Pinot Noir Auction, a singular, for- potential buyers in far-flung locations to wine and 83 percent of spirits lots online. In the-trade showcase of exemplary wines participate. And at a time when in-person addition, says Ritchie, 20 percent of bidders produced in the region. In 2020, with dining is severely limited in most parts of are new to Sotheby’s, and half of them are the COVID-19 crisis raging, the WVWA the country, virtual auctions are proving under 40 years old. “The digital tools enable migrated to a virtual format. to be a successful way to keep consumers us to reach a much broader, younger, and First, it established Preview Week, a engaged with fine wines during an more dynamic market while we continue to series of 15 educational virtual tastings unconventional era of wine buying. enjoy the support of our traditional clients,” leading up to the bidding. “Because the “The digital transformation in the wine he says. auction is a snapshot of vintage, place, and spirits business has been accelerated Zachys Wine Auctions is also up on its and people, we felt strongly that these by five to 10 years as innovation, automa- January projections. “Supply has remained exquisite wines from 2018 needed to tion, simplicity, and empowering clients is consistent to high, and demand has risen be tasted, discussed, and purchased,” very clearly the future,” says Jamie Ritchie, to meet it. Not only have our online sales explains executive director Morgen worldwide head of Sotheby’s Wine. been going well, our live sales have become McLaughlin. what we call ‘Studio Sales,’ livestreamed Then, over three days in August, MORE SEATS AROUND THE TABLE from our offices in White Plains,” explains customers safely ensconced in their living One big upside to the virtual auction is the Charles Antin, head of sales. room bid on 74 auction-exclusive lots of ability to reach a much larger audience, says Even the Hong Kong sales are Pinot Noir from the 2018 vintage and six Jamie Peha, executive director of Auction auctioneered from New York (on Hong lots of Chardonnay. PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHY OF WILLAMETTE WINERIES ASSOCIATION VALLEY

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“People are not moving around as much, and so they have the ability to tune in and live bid. Consumption at home has also increased, and clients have more time to focus on their cellars and collection.”

– Marc Smoler, Hart Davis Hart

The relative success of virtual auctions means that were intended to draw people into the FILLING THE IN-PERSON DINING VOID organizers of live events scheduled for 2021 may Hart Davis Hart Wine Co. has also seen decide well in advance to go virtual. // BELOW: Trophy live-streamed auction. magnums from Italy were going, going, gone at Del Details have not yet been revealed to the number of auction attendees grow Posto's July auction with Hart Davis Hart. the public, but Premiere Napa Valley, the since the pandemic started. “People annual invitation-only event for members are not moving around as much, and of the wine trade, is planning a virtual so they have the ability to tune in and The event culminated in a buzzy live auction in February. “We really did not live bid. Consumption at home has also finale that featured such personalities have an idea how long the pandemic increased, and clients have more time as Portland Trail Blazers guard—and would last and how comfortable our trade to focus on their cellars and collection,” newly minted winemaker—CJ McCollum. partners would be in traveling to Napa says Smoler. Along with this year’s shift to digital, the Valley,” says Stacey Dolan Capitani, vice He also observes that auctions have auction was also remarkable for raising president of marketing at Napa Valley benefited from the current wine tariffs $503,000, $100,000 of which will support Vintners. In case conditions allow for on some European selections, with people the James Beard Foundation’s Food & small gatherings by then, the organizers “seeking out new ways to purchase wines, Beverage Investment Fund for Black and are also planning a few in-person events. especially mature ones, without the extra Indigenous Americans, part of the broader “It will be a fluid situation, but we are expense. Auctions also provide a large James Beard Foundation Open for Good excited about how we are reinventing variety of vintages, formats, price points, campaign. and reimagining this event. I truly believe and regions not found in other venues. It’s For its 33rd iteration, the Auction of many of these concepts will stay in place truly one-stop shopping.” Washington Wines (AWW) also moved once we can gather again,” she adds. The collapse of the on-premise sector forward virtually this August. It raised $1.74 is undoubtedly one of the pandemic’s million for Seattle Children’s Hospital and darkest realities—for owners and staff Washington State University Viticulture certainly, but also for oenophile guests. & Enology Research. Over 600 people As the WVWA’s McLaughlin sums it up: registered for more than 130 lots, including “Many people have lost the chance to sit a 22-year vertical series of Leonetti Cellar down and peruse a wine list, interact with Sangiovese and a reserved spot on the a sommelier, discover new wines, and coveted Cayuse Vineyards membership list. simply enjoy the restaurant experience.” “Our biggest challenge was bringing as Snagging special bottles, such as many elements from our in-person events those from Del Posto, is a luxury, but for to life online,” says Peha. She adds that the collectors ramping up auction sales, such highlights as Gala-in-a-Box meals it’s also a way to channel a much-missed, prepared by well-known Seattle chefs storied dining room n PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF ISTOCK / HART DAVIS HART WINE COURTESY COMPANY / HARTPHOTOGRAPHY DAVIS OF ISTOCK

10 BEVERAGE JOURNAL October 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com WINE AUCTIONS ThinkingThinking of Selling your Business? of Selling your Business?

“People are not moving around as much, and “Are you looking for professionalism, so they have the ability CONFIDENTIALITY, and a dealmaker?” to tune in and live bid. Consumption at home Do you want to maximize value has also increased, and “ clients have more time with the comfort of not leaving money to focus on their cellars on the table?” and collection.”

– Marc Smoler, Hart Davis Hart Steve Atkins, Principal Broker “Looking for an Industry Expert trained Business Intermediary in the process with an Email: [email protected] active database of buyers?” www.atkinsrealtygroup.com The relative success of virtual auctions means that were intended to draw people into the FILLING THE IN-PERSON DINING VOID organizers of live events scheduled for 2021 may Hart Davis Hart Wine Co. has also seen decide well in advance to go virtual. // BELOW: Trophy live-streamed auction. magnums from Italy were going, going, gone at Del Details have not yet been revealed to the number of auction attendees grow Call us today! Posto's July auction with Hart Davis Hart. the public, but Premiere Napa Valley, the since the pandemic started. “People are not moving around as much, and Atkins Business Solutions annual invitation-only event for members A division of Atkins Realty Group, Inc. 410-757-4965 of the wine trade, is planning a virtual so they have the ability to tune in and The event culminated in a buzzy live auction in February. “We really did not live bid. Consumption at home has also finale that featured such personalities have an idea how long the pandemic increased, and clients have more time as Portland Trail Blazers guard—and would last and how comfortable our trade to focus on their cellars and collection,” newly minted winemaker—CJ McCollum. partners would be in traveling to Napa says Smoler. Along with this year’s shift to digital, the Valley,” says Stacey Dolan Capitani, vice He also observes that auctions have auction was also remarkable for raising Does your cooler president of marketing at Napa Valley benefited from the current wine tariffs $503,000, $100,000 of which will support Vintners. In case conditions allow for on some European selections, with people need a Does your the James Beard Foundation’s Food & small gatherings by then, the organizers “seeking out new ways to purchase wines, Beverage Investment Fund for Black and cooler are also planning a few in-person events. especially mature ones, without the extra Face Lift? Indigenous Americans, part of the broader “It will be a fluid situation, but we are expense. Auctions also provide a large suffer from: James Beard Foundation Open for Good excited about how we are reinventing variety of vintages, formats, price points, Х campaign. Bad shelving? and reimagining this event. I truly believe and regions not found in other venues. It’s For its 33rd iteration, the Auction of Х Leaky doors? many of these concepts will stay in place truly one-stop shopping.” Washington Wines (AWW) also moved once we can gather again,” she adds. The collapse of the on-premise sector Х Foggy glass? forward virtually this August. It raised $1.74 is undoubtedly one of the pandemic’s Х Lighting on the fritz? million for Seattle Children’s Hospital and darkest realities—for owners and staff Washington State University Viticulture certainly, but also for oenophile guests. & Enology Research. Over 600 people As the WVWA’s McLaughlin sums it up: Call Today for a FREE cooler health registered for more than 130 lots, including “Many people have lost the chance to sit check! Mention “BEVERAGE JOURNAL” for an extra $50 OFF a future service. a 22-year vertical series of Leonetti Cellar down and peruse a wine list, interact with Sangiovese and a reserved spot on the a sommelier, discover new wines, and *$50 discount on purchase of Service within 30 days coveted Cayuse Vineyards membership list. simply enjoy the restaurant experience.” of a free health check. “Our biggest challenge was bringing as Snagging special bottles, such as Like us at facebook.com/CAREYSALESANDSERVICES many elements from our in-person events those from Del Posto, is a luxury, but for to life online,” says Peha. She adds that the collectors ramping up auction sales, such highlights as Gala-in-a-Box meals it’s also a way to channel a much-missed, Serving the Local Beverage Industry since 1933 prepared by well-known Seattle chefs storied dining room n PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF ISTOCK / HART DAVIS HART WINE COURTESY COMPANY / HARTPHOTOGRAPHY DAVIS OF ISTOCK 3141 Frederick Ave. Baltimore, MD 410-945-7878 or 800-848-7748 • careysales.com THE FIND

TWO NEW ‘BETTER MOUSETRAPS’? In the spirit of constant pursuit of perfection, or at least improvement, two new ancillary products crossed our transom of late.

Florida-based startup Pure Pour is o ering its “game-changing no-leak bottle pour spout.” Leaks and spillage represent the #2 cause of beverage product loss according to the National Restaurant Association. Made of FDA-approved food TEQUILA PARTIDA BORROWS A PAGE grade material, the Pure Pour AND BARRELS FROM SINGLE MALT SCOTCH spout fits virtually any bottle, Tequila Partida is pushing the subtle yet complex art/science of barrel-aging includes a snug-fitting bug cap, is spirits into new territory—by upcycling barrels that held top-shelf Scotch. dishwasher-safe, and does not rust. The new Partida Roble Fino line of sipping tequilas, totaling only 7,200 bottles, Most important of all: it does not combine Partida’s tequila with a variety of pre-seasoned Sherry casks that leak, or even dribble. Pure Pour held Edrington’s single malts, namely The Macallan, Highland Park and The sells for $19.99 for a Glenrothes. ten-pack; packaged The idea first came to Partida’s maestro tequilero, José Valdez, when he for resale at $7.99. visited Scotland for the first time in 2018. “Balancing the journey from Mexico thepurepour.com to Scotland and Spain required a great amount of taste testing and in the end, we’ve created an incredible agave-forward spirit, double aged,” asserts Valdez. “It’s truly the single malt of tequila.” The three new expressions are: ■ Partida Roble Fino Reposado - six months in ex-bourbon barrels then an additional two months in ex-single malt, Sherry casks. 86 proof, $100 ■ Partida Roble Fino Reposado Cristalino - finished in ex-single malt, Sherry casks then filtered to remove color. 80 proof, $115 ■ Partida Roble Fino Añejo - Añejo which ages 18 months in ex-bourbon barrels, then an additional five months in ex-single malt, Sherry casks. 90 proof, $125 partidatequila.com

Remember when straw pollution was raising ire in the hospitality industry? Some have not forgotten. Pasta Life has created an eco-friendly, gluten-free OLD ARMAGNAC UP TO NEW TRICKS Raj Peter Bhakta saw a bright future for American rye drinking straw made from whiskey when he founded WhistlePig. Now he is trying pasta. Marketing materials to break new ground for French brandy. Bhakta 50 reference the “soggy paper is a blend of eight vintage Armagnacs from 1868 to solution,” touting a 100% 1970, then finished in Islay whisky casks. The youngest plant-based alternative, in Armagnac is 50 years old, and the oldest in the bottle is eight no-dye colors and three sizes. Is there a catch? 152 years old. Well, once submerged in liquid, these pasta tubes work Bhakta 50 comprises 38 barrels, each treated as its great for 30-40 minutes. After that, it will split. Good own release with di ering vintage blends, taste profiles, for a cocktail named Time Bomb, perhaps, or impulse proofs, names, and stories. Barrel 3, named Pendragon stocking stu er (20-straw variety pack retails for SRP for King Arthur Pendragon, master of Excalibur, pays $12.98). Wholesale pricing available; pasta.life. homage to discovery. Vintages used in the blend are 1868, 1897, 1939, 1946, 1952, 1963, 1964, and 1970 (1952 and 1964 were not used in Barrel 1 or 2). 90 proof, SRP $299. bhatkabrandy.com

12 BEVERAGE JOURNAL October 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com HIS HOLIDAY SEASON, let’s raise a glass.

Here’s to keeping spirits bright and serving up cheer. Here’s to you!

Limoncello

500 mL Tito’s Handmade Vodka Peel the lemons, avoiding the white pith. Combine Tito’s Handmade Vodka, simple syrup, and lemon 1-2 cups simple syrup peels in a glass jar. Let sit for 1-2 weeks and strain 4 lemon peels when the infusion has reached the desired flavor.

TR-3735_Trade_OnP-P4_BMG.indd 1 9/8/20 8:44 AM DISTILLERS PUSH FOR REGIONAL TERROIR EXPRESSION—AS WELL AS A FORMAL DEFINITION—IN THE BURGEONING AMERICAN SINGLE MALT CATEGORY UNITED MALTS

OF AMERICA BY JACK ROBERTIELLO PHOTOGRAPH COURTESYPHOTOGRAPH OF BALCONES DISTILLING / WESTWARD WHISKEY / BALCONES DISTILLING / WESTLAND DISTILLERY he young, fast-growing American single malt whiskey category “Exploring the climate is at a crossroads. For the past two decades, the curiosity and how local microflora factor surrounding American single malt buoyed producers as participates in the they ramped up production and fine-tuned the skill of distilling malted barley. fermentation means T we are really making whiskey that can only be While American single malt distillers team at Virginia Distillery Co. in Lov- made here.” produce a fraction of the volume of their ingston uses casks formerly used to age Scottish counterparts, there are now 170 Sherries, Moscatel, Madeira, Calvados, - Jared Himstedt, Balcones Distilling, single malt distilleries in production in the and cider. Single malt specialist Westward Waco, Texas U.S., more than in Scotland, which has 120. Whiskey, in Portland, Oregon, recently re- As the category has matured, producers leased a limited edition Sourdough whis- face new challenges: most importantly, the key, and it’s also had success with Stout need to establish a point of differentiation Cask and Pinot Noir Cask limited editions. that’s where innovation comes from—to in an increasingly crowded category and At Virginia Distillery the recipe for work within the confines of what we get how the distilleries should operate in a single malt is an evolving one that yields back,” he explains. legally amorphous category that lacks new insights all the time, says CEO Gareth consistent regulation. Moore: “We laid down some whiskey in ex- Allowing Terroir to Shine With predominantly identical mash apple brandy casks in 2015 and nothing re- American single malts are often criticized bills of 100 percent malted barley, what ally happened. With the cider cask finish, I for an over-abundance of fresh oak, remains to separate one whiskey from thought we may have produced more than but some distillers, including Virginia another lies primarily in aging choices, we could sell, but then we got an award Distillery (which just released its first production tweaks, and regional climate. and our distributor ran out the same day. single malt, Courage and Conviction) and For example, evaporation rates—the vol- It’s very hard to know what will work.” San Jose’s 10th Street Distillery, have opted ume and speed of liquid lost, otherwise Although a used barrel’s provenance is for shaved, toasted, and recharred casks known as the angel’s share—vary dra- often crucial for a producer, many Ameri- (known as STR); it’s a cask preparation matically among Westland Distillery in can single malt distillers are willing to method pioneered by the late whiskey rainy Seattle, Balcones Distilling in sultry leave more to chance. For whiskey that consultant Jim Swan, Ph.D. Waco, Texas, and Stranahan’s in mile-high Westland’s Hofmann ages in ex-beer bar- “The STR casks let us increase the Denver. While differences as dramatic rels, “The key is to allow the breweries to wood element but without overpowering as, say, the peaty malts of Islay have yet produce what they want and then go with the malt,” says 10th Street CEO Virag to emerge, the pursuit of regional style is the flow,” he says. He cites casks that made Saksena. “Malt is milder and more clearly in motion. the trip back and forth between Westland nuanced than corn and rye, which can and Black Raven Brewing in Redmond, stand up to fresh wood although even Roll In the Barrels Washington, where they’d been used to then you need to wait for that initial Westland has leaned on regionality to aged sour cherry kriek and coffee stout. stand out, making barrels from the “We initially thought to do two releases, Pacific Northwest’s native garryana but found that blending them together oak to create single malt whiskeys that yielded a much better whiskey and, to us, showcase what master distiller Matt Hofmann calls the wood’s uniquely dark Single malt whiskeys are being crafted all across and deeply flavorful impact. Westland America. OPPOSITE, clockwise from top left: Whiskey also highlights its Pacific Northwest rests in barrels at Stranahan's in Denver. // Stills and identity by aging whiskey in barrels from barley at Westward in Portland, Oregon. // Readying local beer, wine, and spirits producers. barrels at Balcones Distilling in Waco, Texas. // Cask sampling at Westland Distillery in Seattle. // RIGHT: Westland certainly isn’t alone in ex- Westland's "Garryana" uses barrels made from Pacific

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESYPHOTOGRAPH OF BALCONES DISTILLING / WESTWARD WHISKEY / BALCONES DISTILLING / WESTLAND DISTILLERY ploring wood influence. The production Northwest. forests.

AMERICAN SINGLE MALTS

harshness to disappear. You put malt in “Malt is milder and more can single malt makers hew freshly charred casks, what you taste is nuanced than corn and to familiar Scotch-Irish mostly wood.” rye, which can stand up rules—100 percent malted Dialing back on oak allows regional barley distilled and bottled character to emerge. At Balcones, head to fresh wood. You put in one U.S. location—so the distiller Jared Himstedt conducts malt in freshly charred ASMWC-proposed definition includes constant experiments to achieve casks, what you taste is those regulations, plus the following stan- greater terroir expression, starting mostly wood.” dards: a maximum distillation proof (80 with using barley grown and malted percent ABV) and minimum bottling proof in Texas. “Exploring the climate - Virag Saksena, 10th Street Distillery, (40 percent ABV). and how that affects maturation San Jose, California However, several proposed rules have along with local microflora en- raised some eyebrows. First, there’s a re- tering and participating in the quirement that would mandate a maxi- fermentation means we are really mum (700 liters)—but no minimum—oak making whiskey that can only be The Push to Define the Category barrel size, which concerns pioneer Lance made here,” says Himstedt. “Ev- Up to now, the industry has been built on Winters of St. George Spirits in Alameda, erything is on the table, from en- creativity and freedom to try new things. California, one of the first U.S. distillers try proof and cask sizes to yeast strains, Looking ahead, there is industry-wide to lay down single malt two decades ago. pitching rates, and final mash pH.” agreement that regulations governing the “There’s an awful lot of reliance on American single malt category need to new wood to the point that so many be established. Producers are faced with American whiskeys taste like you’re lick- perplexing Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and ing a saw mill,” says the self-described Trade Bureau (TTB) rulings: Some have “grumpy old man on the porch.” Winters been allowed to put “American single explains that allowing larger barrels and malt whiskey” on one line on labels, limiting barrel size to no smaller than 53 while others are not, and some can age gallons would make more sense: “Over- their single malts in used oak barrels extraction will ruin the category more while others are not permitted to do so. than large barrels will.” Proponents of making changes explain Another concern with the proposed that having a uniform set of standards for rules is the lack of a proposed minimum the American single malt category would age. A distiller could fill a barrel and create consistency and transparency. empty it 15 minutes later and bottle the The 170-distiller member Ameri-

can Single Malt Whiskey Commission ABOVE: Westward finishes its single malt in several (ASMWC) first sent a proposal to the TTB different types of casks. // Balcones uses Texas-grown for an official category definition in 2017, barley. // In terms of setting standards, Lance Winters but the organization is still waiting for of St. George Spirits favors limiting the use of small barrels. // LEFT: Towering Scottish-made Forsyth’s approval. With few exceptions, Ameri- copper pot stills at Balcones. COURTESYPHOTOGRAPH OF WESTWARD WHISKEY / BALCONES DISTILLING / LANCE WINTERS CHRISTINE BY ROBIN THE NATURAL CHOICE FOR A GREAT COCKTAIL

@BolscocktailsUSA AMERICAN SINGLE MALTS

Creating a uniform set ABOVE: Virginia Distilling Co. uses varied combinations of barrels to finish its single malts. // 500-liter casks that we’re trying to do is relatively obvious and of official standards for held Oloroso Sherry for 40+ years are used for Stranahan's straightforward, addressing a definition Sherry Cask bottling. // BELOW: Stranahan's head distiller specific enough to mean something but the American single Owen Martin. also leaving room enough for innovation.” malt category would Certification would also strengthen create consistency producers’ attempts to establish dedi- Other rule tweaks might be useful cated shelf space at retail, say proponents. and transparency, say as well. According to Owen Martin, head However, producers such as Winters, who proponents. distiller at Stranahan’s, which is about to says his Lot series of St. George wouldn’t release the 10-year-old Mountain Angel, qualify under new rules while his Baller a whiskey’s age is not permitted to take label would, will still need to continuously into account the time spent in finishing educate consumers. barrels. “Stranahan’s Sherry Cask is And some distillers are content to whiskey as an American single malt. Of considered a four-year-old because it work outside the proposed rules as they course, bourbon and rye makers can do ages for four years in new American use malt differently: Woodford Reserve, that, too, but they rarely do. Yet with oak barrels before being transferred which released a 100 percent malt whis- intense pressure for young distillers to into Oloroso Sherry barrels. The time in key at the turn of the century, found that develop cash flow, it’s possible that some the finishing barrel can’t be taken into a straight malt with 51 percent malt, 47 might try uncommonly fast time in barrel account for age statements,” he notes, percent corn, and three percent rye mash and damage the category’s quality image. adding that he thinks American rules bill produced a whiskey more to their should allow what Scotland does not in consumer base’s liking, says distiller terms of finishing aging. Chris Morris. Woodford calls it a Ken- Matters of Taste tucky straight malt whiskey. Above all, says Himstedt, is the idea of Whatever the TTB ultimately decides, transparency, “and empowering the con- Steve Hawley, ASMWC president and sumer to understand what they’re buying. global marketing director for Westland, With an aligned standard of identity, we says that the purpose of the proposed can establish some guardrails that will en- rules is not to set barriers. Instead, they sure the health of the category moving would establish U.S. producers within forward while educating and protecting the world’s understanding of what single consumers.” malt is. It may take some time for the “We don’t want to be the ar- notoriously over-worked and slow- biters of taste of single malt,” moving TTB to create standards. Hawley says. “We see our role as But, says Hawley, “We should be defining the parameters but not practiced at being patient; we going so far that they start to make whiskey for a living.” ■

regulate taste. In our minds what COURTESYPHOTOGRAPH OF VIRGINIA DISTILLING / STRANAHAN'S INTRODUCING RUMCHATA PEPPERMINT BARK

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premiumization, reinforced by the arrival of many high-quality craft offerings.

Sparked by the Little Guys “When I first started thinking about true cocktail-bar quality canned cocktails, my CANNED COCKTAILS first thought was, ‘Why doesn’t this already exist?’ And I think the answer was ARE CRUSHING IT that the market for them wasn’t established enough for large brands to want to HOW BARTENDERS AND CRAFT DISTILLERS ARE jump in. Now that tide has shifted,” Macy REVOLUTIONIZING THE FAST-GROWING RTD says. “It’s been almost 20 years since Flat- CATEGORY WITH BAR-QUALITY COCKTAILS IN A CAN iron Lounge—Julie’s first pioneering bar in New York City—started teaching people BY ALIA AKKAM how to drink better. I think there’s a much better general understanding now of what makes a great drink.” For Los Angeles bartender Aaron Pol- hen Tom Macy, a partner at Clover Club and Leyenda in Brook- sky, the canned cocktail enables bartend- lyn, New York, created a bottled Paloma at Leyenda, he “dis- ers to scale up their roles—and their in- covered that it was better than the Paloma we made at the bar.” come—beyond the venues where they W Intrigued, Macy sampled every ready-to-drink (RTD) product work. Most recently of Harvard & Stone, he could find and concluded: “We thought we could do it better.” Polsky launched LiveWire Drinks, a series of well-wrought canned cocktails that showcases recipes from top bartend- Macy teamed up with Clover Club and demic. But with the bar industry crippled ers. The first to make a splash, just at the Leyenda co-owner Julie Reiner and cre- and no clear idea of when sitting on an indoor beginning of the pandemic in March, was ated Social Hour. Launched in August, the stool watching a bartender stir a martini to Polsky’s own Heartbreaker, a Moscow brand’s initial offerings include the Gin & life will become the delightful norm again, Mule-meets-Paloma with vodka, grape- Tonic and the Whiskey Mule, made with the canned cocktail has been catapulted into fruit, kumquat, jasmine, and ginger. “We New York Distilling Company’s Perry’s the spotlight. According to Nielsen, canned doubled our sales in July and beat our July Tot Navy Strength Gin and Ragtime Rye cocktails have generated $117.99 million off- sales by the middle of August,” Polsky says. Straight Whiskey, respectively, as well as premise during the pandemic (from March Neal Cohen and Yoni Reisman joined a low-ABV Pacific Spritz with a rosé-wine 7-August 15); that’s a 146.6 percent increase forces with Atlanta barman Miles Mac- blend from New York’s Finger Lakes. compared to a year earlier. quarrie of Kimball House and Watchman’s The RTD category certainly isn’t new, Perhaps as important as the catego- to officially launch Tip Top Proper Cock- and it was gaining steam before the pan- ry’s growth is its clear direction towards tails last fall. Cohen and Reisman worked TIP TOP PHOTOGRAPH BY MIA YAKEL / PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF HOCHSTADTER’S SLOW & LOW ROCK AND RYE & LOW SLOW COURTESY / PHOTOGRAPH OF HOCHSTADTER’S MIA BY YAKEL PHOTOGRAPH TIP TOP SPIRTIS COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS OF SOCIAL HOUR / CUTWATER / BACARDI / HEARTBREAKER / GREENBAR DISTILLERY / PERLA / TANQUERAY in the music festival industry for years. “Reception has been generated through retail, a saving grace “Along the way, we saw the demand for increasingly positive as in an upended economy. quality cocktails growing, but were frus- people discover they can trated by the movement’s inability to meet Roots of Premiumization the demand for these drinks in high-vol- get a bar-quality classic The Cooper Spirits Company was one of ume situations,” Cohen says. Their solu- cocktail conveniently the first to pioneer the craft cocktail in tion was Tip Top, which focuses solely on at a time when visiting a can. In 2016, it launched Hochstadter’s the classics: an Old Fashioned, Manhattan, their favorite bar is not Slow & Low Rock and Rye, which features and Negroni served in retro-style 100ml straight rye whiskey, Florida navel or- cans. “Reception has been increasingly as feasible.” anges, raw honey, bitters, and rock candy. positive as people discover they can get a – Neal Cohen, Tip Top Proper Cocktails It clocks in at 84 proof and is packaged in bar-quality classic cocktail conveniently 100ml mini-cans. Its success hinted at the at a time when visiting their favorite bar premiumization that would soon guide is not as feasible,” Cohen adds. the category. Other canned cocktail producers In recent years, such sophisticated, are pushing esoteric flavor limits akin cocktail, an Italian-style spritz, in niche products as Novo Fogo sparkling to the most ambitious cocktail bars. 2019, “after three years of trying Caipirinhas and New York sommelier Jor- Empirical, the brainchild of Lars Wil- to teach simple cocktail making to dan Salcito’s Ramona wine spritzes have liams and Mark Emil Hermansen, two our tasting room visitors and re- garnered attention. San Diego craft dis- alums from the legendary Copenha- alizing that most folks wanted to tillery Cutwater Spirits even specializes in gen restaurant Noma, developed a drink a good cocktail, not make the canned genre; its latest offering is a spirit base of beet molasses and saison one,” says cofounder Melkon Khosro- Long Island Iced Tea. yeast. In true Nordic fashion, their new Can vian. Prior to the pandemic, Big brands have re- 1 combines milk oolong tea with toasted bartenders comprised more sponded as well. Tanqueray birch and green gooseberry, and Can 2 than 80 percent of Green- just introduced its RTD mixes sour cherry, black-currant buds, and bar’s customer base, adds trio—Tanqueray Gin & Ton- young pine cones with walnut wood. Khosrovian. Today, thanks ic, Tanqueray Rangpur Lime Washington, D.C., distillery Don Cic- to Greenbar’s new line of Gin & Soda, and Tanqueray cio & Figli is known for its range of Ital- canned highballs, including Sevilla Orange Gin & Soda. ian-style liqueurs based on 19th-century Gin + Tonic and Single Malt Bacardi’s lineup—Lime & family recipes that now make a cameo Whiskey + Soda, Rum + Cola, THEY Soda, Limon & Lemonade, in the brand’s new Perla RTD line. Some 80 percent of its sales are now CAN TOO and Rum Punch—launched in

are bottled, but La Perla Ambrosia Spritz, Big brands are which brings together the herbal Ambro- jumping in; Cutwater sia liqueur with house-made vermouth now has 20 cans. and soda, is packaged in a can. “I first had the idea for a canned cocktail seven years ago, but thought now was the perfect time to launch,” says Francesco Amodeo, president and master distiller. Organic producer Greenbar Distillery in Los Angeles also spawned a canned TIP TOP PHOTOGRAPH BY MIA YAKEL / PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF HOCHSTADTER’S SLOW & LOW ROCK AND RYE & LOW SLOW COURTESY / PHOTOGRAPH OF HOCHSTADTER’S MIA BY YAKEL PHOTOGRAPH TIP TOP SPIRTIS COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS OF SOCIAL HOUR / CUTWATER / BACARDI / HEARTBREAKER / GREENBAR DISTILLERY / PERLA / TANQUERAY CATEGORY FOCUS

“The pandemic accelerated consumers’ introduction to the The restaurant Takoi in Detroit category and put it on has developed a line of the map.” housemade canned cocktails.

– Jordan Dil, Elenita pepper, it’s found success on- and koi is already there, and the cans off-premise, says CEO and founder are not just about having another Scott Goldman: “Since lockdown oc- SKU to sell. curred, canned cocktails have be- Takoi turns out a line of four come even more popular as they en- cocktails served in eight-ounce May, and the debut was so successful that sure that people don’t have to travel stubby cans with labels designed “We’ve already doubled our forecast for to secure ingredients when they en- by the executive chef, Brad Green- the year,” says Pete Carr, regional presi- joy drinks at home. They also help to hill. Selections include Promises in dent of Bacardi North America. limit contact between bartender and Vortex, a spicy margarita riff, and Agave Takes the Lead sipper if [they’re] ordered as a to-go op- Strawberry Alarm, a fruity vodka Collins tion from a bar.” of sorts. Agave spirits are playing a starring role Jordan Dil and Mikel Noriega were Beverage director Drew Pompa says in the new craft canned cocktail move- in business school at UCLA when they that although the cocktail four-packs have ment. Richard Betts, the master sommelier dreamed up plans for Elenita, a line of boosted revenue on take-out and delivery who founded such spirits brands as Som- canned mezcal cocktails, for their cap- orders, they also act as organic branding bra Mezcal and Tequila Komos, saw the stone project. Made with agave espadin in tools for the restaurant. He thinks this strength of the RTD category in Australia, flavors of cucumber-lime-basil and pine- advantage will drive bars and restaurants where he was making wine, and wanted to apple- jalapeño, Elenita’s offerings arrived to reimagine a more adaptive business launch a tequila-based version for the U.S. on the market a few months before the model, one that delves more deeply into market. His whimsically packaged Super- crisis began. “We started the pandemic product development. bird Paloma is a blend of pink grapefruit with 40 retail accounts and now have over “Restaurants and bars in the future juice, agave nectar, and 100 percent blue 150, and our online sales saw a nice bump,” may have this widespread popularity, not agave tequila blanco. Superbird launched says Dil. “The pandemic accelerated con- by the sheer amounts of diners or the num- in the beginning of July and sold over 1,000 sumers’ introduction to the category and ber of five-star reviews, but because of cases in the first two weeks without any put it on the map.” their product awareness,” Pompa explains. large-scale distribution deal. “It’s interesting to think that someone who Bartender Scott Baird, co-founder of Restaurant Brand Builders knows Takoi five years from now, who has Trick Dog in San Francisco, designed the What will happen to canned cocktails never visited the restaurant, will only know recipe for the first-ever large-format re- when bar life resumes? Many of the bar of Takoi because of a canned cocktail.” sealable Party Can by Cocktail Courier, and restaurant operators that have em- Even when restaurants and bars once which serves up to 12 full-size margaritas. braced cans during the pandemic believe again start to swell with customers crav- A blend of 100 percent blue agave tequi- this practical shelf-stable format has ing intricate, made-to-order libations, la, orange liqueur, fresh lime juice, and a the potential to find a permanent place the quality canned versions that helped spice mix of ginger, cinnamon, and chile in the on-premise arena. The Morris, in them find a little more joy when they were San Francisco, has even bought a canning cooped up at home will still be welcome. machine to begin making its own RTD “Canned cocktails are here to stay be- products. In Detroit, Thai restaurant Ta- cause they meet a huge need,” says Green- bar’s Khosrovian: “When your favorite bartender isn’t around and you don’t want Agave-based cocktails are a fast-growing sub-category to make it yourself.” of the canned arena. Examples include the mezcal-based Social Hour’s Macy echoes that senti- Elenita, Superbird by Richard Betts, and the Cocktail Courier Party Can Triple Spice Margarita in a 1.75-liter ment. “Having an ice-cold gin and tonic in

resealable can. your fridge is a wonderful thing,” he says. ■ CAN / ELENITA / PARTY COURTESYPHOTOGRAPH OF SUPERBIRD / TAKOI ®

mate change exacerbates existing weather STAYING AHEAD OF patterns, wine regions that are already hot and semi-arid places—such as parts of THE STORM California, Southern Europe, and South- PORTUGAL EMERGES AS A GLOBAL LEADER IN west Australia—will become even more so. RESPONDING TO THE CLIMATE THREAT “Our temperature records and rainfall records in the Douro region more or less BY SOPHIA MCDONALD accompany the global trends of the last 30 years, which is an average overall increase in temperatures of 1 to 1.5 degrees C,” says Rob Symington, associate director n 2017, several vineyards in Portugal fell victim to a series of of Symington Family Estates. However, wildfires. In May 2018, areas in the Douro DOC received their average temperatures during the growing entire anticipated rainfall for the month in one hour. Later season have increased by 1.6 to 1.8 degrees. I that year, the Alentejo region had five consecutive days with “The most worrying thing is that we’re seeing, in particular, an increase in temperatures above 104 degrees F, which caused heat burn and led to extreme heat events, which are days above grape losses of up to 50 percent in some places. 35 degrees C [95 degrees F].” Average rainfall also drops off rapidly farther inland and is becoming even more Although wine regions all over the “Mediterranean climates are quite sparse. “We’re seeing problems with water world are grappling with the realities of a vulnerable to climate changes,” says Filipe resources, especially in the southern part warming planet, Portugal—which is the Duarte Santos, Ph.D., a professor of phys- of the country,” says Dr. Santos. “You have fourth-largest grape-producing country ics, geophysics, and environment at the regions in the north where you have nearly and ninth-largest wine producer—is expe- University of Lisbon and a review editor of two meters of rain per year. In the south, riencing the effects of climate change fast- the most recent Intergovernmental Panel you have about half a meter per year. It’s a er than most, according to many scientists. on Climate Change report. Because cli- big difference.” COURTESYPHOTOGRAPH OF ALENTEJO COURTESY / PHOTOGRAPH OF SOGRAPE Portugal’s experiments and creative strategies are already serving as models for regions around the globe.

“What is already clear is the amazing dis- OPPOSITE: A vineyard in Alentejo, where nearly half of tribution range in terms of the maturation the 400 wineries are part of the region's award-winning cycle of each variety,” he says. “There is up sustainability program. // ABOVE: António Graça, director The phenological cycle of many Por- of R&D at Sogrape, at a data-gathering station at Quinta do tugeuese vineyards is also speeding up, to a 30-day spread in the date of veraison Sairrão in the Douro region. from budbreak to harvest dates. António of the varieties we are studying.” Rocha Graça, director of research and In addition to researching Portugal’s development for Sogrape, has been com- ancestral varieties, Sogrape has been kaolin. It’s a bit like a sun cream. It reduces piling information gained from studying focused on increasing the genetic diversity temperatures a little.” A side benefit to the grapes from a number of regions in recent in its vineyards. “We have been able to clay is that it seems to repel leafhoppers. years. “When you consider the data from move from what has been the standard “The shorter that we can make our grape berries, you can see quite visibly monoclonal approach in the grape and harvest, the better chance we have of that three parameters have been changing wine business worldwide to something getting the varieties at the right maturity steadily for the last 30 years: Sugar con- Portugal pioneered at the world level, level,” says Baverstock. When Esporão re- tent and pH are increasing, and acid con- which is polyclonal selection,” says Graça. built its winery several years ago, it in- tent is decreasing,” Graça explains. (The International Organisation of Vine creased the capacity of its receiving area In the face of such rapidly accelerating and Wine recently recognized the nation by 50 percent. “We normally have some- change, Portugal’s wine producers have for its pivotal role in developing this thing like an eight-week harvest. With emerged as leaders, experimenting with method as far back as the 1970s.) So, rather the new winery, we can reduce it to about creative and proactive new strategies that than planting a whole vineyard to one five weeks. We felt it was really impor- are already serving as models for regions clone, the company plants balanced mixes tant to have that possibility in the hot around the globe. of seven or more clones, with the idea that years,” he adds. the diverse genetics that reside within As part of an EU-funded trial, Syming- Pioneering Solutions in the Vines each plant will give them complementary ton has introduced an autonomous robot Located on a gently sloping hill outside advantages in different years. called Vine Scout, which moves between Esporão’s winery in Alentejo sits a nine- Different clones show slightly different rows in the vineyard and provides real- hectare vineyard where the company is behavioral characteristics, Graça points time data about such factors as tempera- testing 180 grape varieties to determine out. Should weather conditions prevent ture and moisture level. Having that in- which are best-suited to withstand cli- pollination and good cluster formation in formation allows growers to irrigate only mate change. About 150 of those grapes an early-blooming clone, for example, one where needed and limit the application of come from the nearly 290 varieties that with a later budbreak may have a better plant protections to just vineyard blocks are native to the country. (Portugal is sec- chance of succeeding that year. Should a that have disease or pest outbreaks. “It ond only to Italy in the number of native disease or pest wipe out one clone, others gives the grower an ability to have almost winemaking grapes.) may be able to resist it. X-ray vision into their vineyard,” Syming- David Baverstock, Esporão’s director of ton explains. “If you’re going to make in- wine culture and education and former Embracing New Technologies terventions in the vineyard, you can make chief winemaker, says the company has Esporão is also modifying its vineyard them based on science and what’s happen- already discovered two varieties that seem practices. “Whereas in the 1980s and ing meter by meter, instead of the blanket promising when it comes to retaining 1990s, we were encouraged to go to more way it was done in the past.” acidity in warming temperatures: Sercial, fruit exposure and not have fruit too Sogrape is using remote detection a white wine grape commonly used to shaded, we’ve gone back to having a bit technology, including drones and satel- make Madeira, and Souzão, a red wine of a sprawl in the vineyards,” Baverstock lites, to monitor vineyard conditions and grape typically used in Port production. explains, which helps prevent sunburn. micro-target for watering, manage dis- Symington is also growing 48 pre- “We have also been spraying our more eases and pests, and treat nutrient defi- susceptible vines with a white clay called PHOTOGRAPH COURTESYPHOTOGRAPH OF ALENTEJO COURTESY / PHOTOGRAPH OF SOGRAPE dominantly indigenous grapes for study. ciencies. The company has also invested in REGION FOCUS

technology that measures the hydric state ABOVE: The experimental vineyard at Esporão has Portugal Emerges as a Leader 180 different varieties. David Baverstock, former chief of individual plants to understand when winemaker, oversees the ongoing research at Esporão. Reducing carbon footprints runs in tan- and if they need irrigation. “It’s a system Terraced vines, such as these at Quinta da Leda in the dem with efforts to combat the already- similar to taking the blood pressure in a Douro region, are a signature of viticulture in Portugal. felt impact of climate change. Graça notes person,” says Graça. “We can measure the that Sogrape has shifted to renewable en- reverse pressure the plant needs to extract ergy sources, decreased the weight of its water from the soil and then determine and weed control, and supporting hedge- bottles so less fuel is required to transport precisely the minimum water needed to rows and habitat banks for pollinators of them, and optimized its distribution and get the best grapes.” wild plants and animal species that benefit transportation networks so that bottles the vineyards and other farming plots,” he travel more efficiently. Biodiversity, Sustainability, and says. “We have installed a few bird of prey Symington worked with Ernst and Cooler Spots and bat boxes for maintaining ‘aerial sup- Young using the World Resource Institute’s Growers in Portugal are embracing low- port’ regarding pest control, from moths GHG protocol to measure and benchmark tech tools as well. Casa Relvas in Alentejo to rodents, and we are currently defining its existing end-to-end greenhouse gas has deliberately left much of its property new sites for new boxes to increase the emissions. With that data, Symington im- wild to increase biodiversity around the populations of bats and owls.” plemented a sustainability roadmap called vineyards, reports Alexandre Relvas, Producers are exploring undeveloped Mission 2025, which gives the vineyard a enologist at the company’s Herdade de regions previously considered too cool clear plan to lower carbon emissions. Goals Sao Miguel label. It’s proved effective at for grape growing. Symington, which has include getting 100 percent of its energy keeping vines healthy and productive, traditionally grown only in the Douro from renewable sources, decreasing carbon partly by hosting beneficial insects and Valley in Northern Portugal, recently emissions per liter of wine by 35 percent, animals, which help fight off the harmful purchased Quinta da Fonte Souto, its first decreasing the water and energy needed to pests. “We own 750 hectares of cork tree vineyard in the mountainous Portalegre, produce a liter of wine by 10 percent, and forest, which means a carbon absorption a promising subregion within northern supporting reforestation and ecosystem of 10.5 tons of CO2 per year,” Relvas Alentejo. The company is also looking to restoration projects in the country. reports. He also recently purchased a new plant at higher elevation sites in the Douro Portugal’s sustainability movement has water-treatment system that allows Casa wine region. “It’s not easy,” Symington gained tremendous momentum in the past Relvas to recycle 100 percent of the water says. “After you plant, it takes five years decade. Dozens of wineries have joined The used on the property. to reach full production and 20 years for Porto Protocol Foundation, a nonprofit In recent years, Herdade dos Grous peak productions.” founded by Port producer Taylor Fladgate. has also been investing heavily in building Esporão now has a 15-hectare vineyard The foundation helps food and beverage back biodiversity on its property, explains in Portalegre as well. “It’s becoming the companies around the world maintain an Luís Duarte, brand manager and wine- go-to place,” says Baverstock. Other pro- open dialogue about climate change solu- maker. The main focus of its sustainable ducers, including wineries Cortes de Cima tions. In addition, over the past five years, farming approach is what he calls “land and Vincentino, are planting on the coast nearly 400 wineries and vineyard owners in mosaic promotion,” which supports the to get the benefit of the Atlantic breezes, Alentejo have joined Wines of Alentejo Sus- health of surrounding grasslands, oak he reports. “Even some regions around tainability Programme (WASP), an award- savannas, olive groves, and other natural Lisbon where it’s quite cool and damp winning voluntary program. Members rep- spaces near its vineyards. “We are using could benefit from a bit more heat,” and resent 45 percent of the vineyard area in seed mixes that promote soil protection have grape-growing potential, he believes. ■

the region. COURTESYPHOTOGRAPH OF ESPORAO WINERY COURTESY / PHOTOGRAPH OF SOGRAPE EAT. DRINK. END HUNGER. NYC’s biggest wine and food Festival may look different, but our commitment is unchanged — to continue the celebration of the NYC restaurant community and fight to end hunger. JOIN US! Over 30 virtual cooking and cocktail classes with celebrity and renowned chefs and mixologists, part of NYCWFF Goes Virtual presented by Capital One.

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Must be 21 or older with valid ID to consume alcohol. The Festival promotes responsible drinking. 100% of the net proceeds go to No Kid Hungryand Food Bank For New York City. Photos: Courtesy of Getty Images | Sponsors confirmed as of 9.4.20 BRAND PROFILE AUTHENTICITY FUELS BRAND POWER FOR CRILLON'S ABSENTE & BARBANCOURT

TWO STARS IN THE CRILLON IMPORTERS PORTFOLIO REMAIN STRONG IN 2020

Absente is known for its historic connection to BY W. R. TISH French artists and its ritual of serving with a flat spoon and sugar cube. But it also adds an herbal twist to cocktails like the Sazerac or Mojito. rillon Importers was founded available for the first time since it was by Michel Roux, who, when banned in 1912. Introduced a decade on—from managing the cane through fer- spinning his marketing magic ahead of competitors, the brand mentation and distillation—as it has been as Carillon Importers, made continues to account for over half the for 150 years. rockC stars out of Absolut Vodka and U.S. absinthe market. The best selling SKU, Rhum Barban- Bombay Sapphire Gin beginning in Absente is not only handcrafted court 5 Stars, is aged eight years in Lim- the 1980s. Today, Crillon Importers using the same ingredients as a cen- ousin oak barrels. Rhum Barbancourt 15 is owned by Distilleries et Domaines tury ago—notably wormwood, anise, Years Old, traditionally used for special de Provence, a century-old French balm, mint, fennel, and more—it also occasions, ages an extra seven years in distillery in France’s Provence region, successfully connected its brand iden- ex-bourbon barrels. Crillon also imports owned and run by the Robert family. And tity to absinthe’s colorful history as the Rhum Barbancourt 3 Stars (aged four CEO Jean-Baptiste Robert is proving that “Green Fairy.” That classic French con- years); Rhum Barbancourt White; as well Crillon has a knack of its own for branding, nection is rendered aptly on Absente’s as Pango Rhum (blended with natural as evident in the portfolio’s top products: packaging, starring Vincent Van Gogh and mango and pineapple). Absente and Rhum Barbancourt. recently equipped with a traditional flat Barbancourt’s legacy accounts for nat- But don’t just credit marketing—au- spoon for holiday gifting. ural loyalty in the Haitian community— thenticity is the driver, he insists. And this “It’s almost a symbol of the country,” notes year, both brands are continuing to grow. “I RHUM ON A ROLL Robert. But it is the brand’s position as a believe in these uncertain times, consum- Meanwhile, Rhum Barbancourt is up 94 source of handcrafted aged dark rum that ers tend to favor intrinsic quality to mar- percent this year vs. 2019, notes Robert, has extended its reputation among rum keting,” adds Robert. and will end 2020 as the second best-sell- aficionados. “You look at Barbancourt and ing dark rum in the U.S. in cases and first can see it’s not flashy,” says Robert. “It’s all ABSINTHE RENAISSANCE in value. What changed? about the liquid, and the roots to the land Absente is the unquestioned king of the Not the product. “For years, we were it came from. People like products that are absinthe market, being first to market facing frequent shortage and the supply deeply rooted, now more than ever.” in the U.S. in 2001, making absinthe could never meet the high demand,” says Robert. “The new CEO at the Haitian dis- GRABBING MOMENTUM tillery understands the importance of the Not that marketing hasn’t also benefited U.S., and tripled allocations.” The supply both Absente and Barbancourt. Videos on chain fix has enabled Rhum Barbancourt’s social media have been especially effec- quality proposition—and stocks of aging tive, drawing viewer completion rates well rum, a rarity in the category—to shine. above benchmark. “It’s just fantastic, and Being a rhum agricole, and using pure confirms these brands and their niches— sugar cane juice (no molasses), is one qual- absinthe and Haitian rhum—are really in- ity advantage. Production remains hands- teresting consumers,” says Robert. n PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHY IMPORTERS OF CRILLON Rhum Barbancourt was founded in 1862 by Dupré Barbancourt, who immigrated to Haiti from the Cognac region of France. ABSINTHE REFINED

NOW A TRUE ABSINTHE IN A GIFT BOX WITH SPOON

Enjoy ABSENTE responsibly! ABSINTHEABSENTE.COM 55% Alc./Vol. (110 proof) Imported from France by Crillon Importers Ltd. Paramus NJ @absinthe_absente BRAND PROFILE

BOUNCEBACK TO BASICS

FOR J. LOHR, MANAGING 2020 HAS BEEN LESS PIVOT, MORE REINFORCEMENT

BY JACK ROBERTIELLO

very winery in the world had to make complicated decisions as COVID-19 hit. For J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines, navigating the storm Known as a pioneer in Paso Robles, J. Lohr has meantE maintaining solid on-premise re- vineyards in Monterey and Napa Valley as well, and produces multiple tiers of wine. At left, Hilltop Vineyard, lationships, expanding their off-premise the source of Cabernet Sauvignon for the Vineyard presence, building on social media, and series bottling (above). All J. Lohr wines feature “Family even exploring the new avenues in digital owned since 1974” on the front of the bottles. marketing.. Managing in crisis an enterprise that accounts for around 1.8 million cases of live consumer tasting event is expected to multiple lines is no easy task. But as vice draw several thousand participants. president, U.S. national sales Steve Doyle series, priced at $25-$30+, was hit hard That educational aspect, especially notes, J. Lohr was well positioned in the by the slowdown on-premise, as was the around the Vineyard series and Signature Zoom/Instagram era, with tremendous $100+ Signature. “There we partnered with Cabernet, has proven valuable—over the consumer loyalty and interaction through independent and chain retailers, not at a summer, Vineyard series sales grew by events, social media, and on- and off- discount, but in most cases offering these double digits, making up for its year-to- premise partnerships before March 2020. wines for the first time to them; we’ve date on-premise losses. found some good success in our grocery BUILD A BETTER PIPELINE partners who really needed to rely upon NEXT FRONTIER: DIGITAL An iconic California producer with roots trusted brands who have longevity.” Finally, with the on-premise team focus- in Paso Robles and Monterey, J. Lohr is These moves built confidence, Doyle ing on maintaining contact with operators known especially for their best-selling says, and as the company engaged in more (so far not a single placement has been Seven Oaks Cabernet and Riverstone social media and virtual event activities, lost there, says Doyle), J. Lohr also turned Chardonnay, part of the Estate tier. So they emphasized what has been the J. Lohr to what they call the fourth tier, or digi- making sure of supply was first on the list mantra for nearly a decade. “Family, place, tal sales, exploring outlets, investigating as businesses closed and supply chains and craft,” notes Doyle. “We communicate digital asset management companies, and were challenged. that in everything we do.” keeping in touch with distributors’ evolv- “We worked very hard so that we’ve So much so that many of the events ing ordering process. had absolutely zero inventory issues. Early showcased 83-year-old Jerry Lohr and Above all, says Doyle, the focus of on, and in ongoing communications, our daughter and chief brand officer Cynthia the company on maintaining consistency distributors were assured that we would Lohr, including a two-night Father’s Day vintage to vintage in their major brands, manage logistics and shipment practices tasting and dinner with Morton’s The and that is where any change has been that would meet their needs,” says Doyle. Steakhouse, and a tasting event devoted focused: “Innovation to Jerry Lohr and Whatever happened going forward, having to the high-end red blend Pure Paso. this company is making wine consis- plenty of their best sellers was crucial. The company’s “At Home with J. Lohr” tently well and not following fashionable Then, the sales force turned to direct- website houses virtual assets, fun wine- short-term trends. Jerry knows what he ing to the off-premise wines that were related activities, and ways to stay en- does well and the company stays focused n now less tightly allocated. The Vineyard gaged with consumers. This November, a within those lanes.” & WINES COURTESY VINEYARDS PHOTOGRAPHY LOHR OF J. The Essence of Place, Expertly Crafted

J. LOHR VINEYARD SERIES

J. Lohr Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon is a true expression of Paso Robles character in a style that only J. Lohr can deliver. 91 POINTS It showcases the best of our decades-long experience in the vineyard and in the cellar. Editors’ Choice

2017 J. LOHR HILLTOP ~ STEVE PECK CABERNET SAUVIGNON Director of Winemaking May ‘20

jlohr.com | @JLohrWines

JLohrAD-BMG-VSHilltopStevePeck-Accolade.indd 1 9/8/20 2:03 PM NEW PRODUCTS

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1. BAILEYS APPLE PIE 2. JOSH CELLARS ‘BOURBON BARREL 3. SANTA JULIA ‘EL BURRO’ MALBEC, Why wait for fall for a delicious apple-y treat? AGED’ CABERNET SAUVIGNON MENDOZA, ARGENTINA Baileys hit the ground running with the new, Working with top growers to build a Winesellers, Ltd. has introduced a new limited-edition Baileys Apple Pie Irish Cream superior wine blend, Josh Cellars’ latest line natural wine from Bodega Santa Julia, Liqueur, in time for “Friendsgiving” in August. extension jumps into the whiskey-barreled Argentina’s leading organic wine producer. (In 2011, the brand was one of the pioneers sub-category with a full-bodied entry. Josh El Burro is a Malbec from Mendoza, in introducing Friendsgiving celebrations.) Cellars 2017 Bourbon Barrel Cabernet produced from certified organic estate Baileys Apple Pie blends flavors of freshly Sauvignon delivers the signature Josh vineyards without the addition of sulfites. baked apple pie and creamy vanilla ice cream Cellars style—fruit forward and rich, with It is also fair trade certified and suitable for with hints of cinnamon and spice. 34% proof. approachable tannins and a long finish— vegans. The wine has fresh aromas of plum with the bourbon barrel aging imparting and cherry with a full-bodied palate. notes of vanilla, brown spice and caramel.

SRP: $24.99 SRP: $19.99 SRP: $18 baileys.com joshcellars.com winesellersltd.com

4. SCHEID FAMILY ‘VDR’ RED BLEND 5. ELENA GIN 6. BAREFOOT BUTTERY CHARDONNAY Scheid Family Wines of Monterey County is Dalla Terra Winery Direct is launching a ‘ON TAP’ 3L BOX releasing VDR (Very Dark Red), a red blend specialty Italian spirits division with Elena Chardonnay continues to be a many-fangled leading with a rare combination of Petite Sirah Gin, a London Dry Gin developed by Elena wine, and the recent trend of descriptive front and Petit Verdot—varieties known for saturated Penna Currado and Luca Currado Vietti of labels is clearly at work in Barefoot’s new hues, concentration, and full body. The dark the Piedmont-based Vietti winery. Elena Gin Buttery Chardonnay. Accented with tropical burgundy front label focuses on full-scale VDR features native botanicals from the Italian (pineapple) aromatics and “layers of toasty initials; the back label highlights a commitment Alps of Piedmont including juniper, almonds, oak to complement the smooth vanilla finish,” to environmental stewardship including a 100% thyme, coriander, black elderflower, it makes no pretensions as to crispness, and Powered by Wind designation. VDR is sourced Angelica, mint, cassia bark, and citrus peel. that should help fans find it. The wine even predominantly from the Hames Valley AVA in Made in small batches using two wood-fired feels buttery outside—the stylish golden 3-liter southernmost Monterey. pot stills from the 18th century. 84 proof. bag-in-box emulates a big stick of butter.

SRP: $24.99 SRP: $35 SRP: $18.99 scheidfamilywines.com | vdrwines.com dallaterra.com barefootwine.com 7 8 9 10 11 12

7. 1800 CRISTALINO TEQUILA 8. OLD FITZGERALD BOTTLED-IN-BOND 9. ESPORÃO ‘BICO AMARELO’ 1800 Tequila is introducing a new ultra- FALL 2020 EDITION VINHO VERDE premium expression. Starting with 1800 Añejo, Heaven Hill Distillery has released the Fall Quinta do Ameal, founded 1710, helped put 1800 Cristalino is first aged for 16 months in 2020 edition of Old Fitzgerald Bottled-in- Loureiro-based Vinho Verde on the map. new American and French oak barrels. The Bond Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Having been acquired by fellow Portuguese liquid is then married and finished in Port at 14 years old. Bottled in an ornate decanter producer Esporão, Quinta do Ameal’s U.S. casks for six more months (a first in the tequila and black label as with past editions, it also arrival via Esporão’s NOW Wine Imports category, according to the producer). A careful features a tax strip detailing when the bourbon coincides with the debut of a new wine: Bico filtering process leaves a smoother, colorless, was produced and bottled. This is the sixth Amarelo (“Yellow Beak”). The debut 2019 and more complex tequila. Packaged in an release in the series, and of course meets the is a blend of 40% Loureiro from Quinta do eye-catching, cut-glass bottle. 80 proof. strict rules of bottled-in-bond. 100 proof. Ameal, rounded out by Alvarinho and Avesso. Bico Amarelo joins three estate-grown, 100%-Loureiro offerings.

SRP: $65 SRP: $140 SRP: $12 (Quinta do Ameal wines $18-$40) 1800tequila.com heavenhilldistillery.com esporao.com

10. TIA MARIA ‘ICED COFFEE FRAPPÉ’ 11. IRON SIDE CELLARS 12. FOPPIANO VINEYARDS Tia Maria, known worldwide for its coffee liqueur, RESERVE CHARDONNAY RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY WINES is entering the ready-to-drink category with Iron Side Cellars, a collection of California Foppiano Vineyards, one the Russian River its Iced Coffee Frappé. The brand-new 200ml wines from Latitude Beverage, has launched Valley’s oldest family-owned wineries, RTD is 4% ABV and made with 100% Arabica its first white wine: a Reserve Chardonnay is commemorating its upcoming 125th coffee, cream, and original Tia Maria. Key to the sourced from the Russian River Valley and anniversary with a retro-inspired look for Iced Coffee Frappé is its nitro technology, which blended under the direction of 25-year its estate wines. The new label will first instantly creates the frappé foam for a velvety Sonoma veteran Ed Killian. The 2019 Reserve appear on the 2018 Chardonnay and 2019 texture. Brand owner Disaranno International Chardonnay is full-bodied, with an elegant Sauvignon Blanc; the rest of the range, collaborated on the colorful, abstract package freshness and an abundance of orchard and including the winery’s iconic Petite Sirah with street artist Karski from the Netherlands. tropical fruit alongside toasty oak. It joins the and “1896” red blend will follow. brand’s Reserve Pinot Noir, one of the fastest- growing wines in the Latitude portfolio.

SRP: $10.99/four-pack (200ml) SRP: $18.99 SRP: $19.99-$24.99 tiamaria.com | disaranno.com ninetypluscellars.com foppiano.com | quintessentialwines.com BAR TALK

X MAKES THE SPOT

KENDRA ANDERSON, BAR HELIX AND CABANA X, DENVER

BY ALIA AKKAM

n 2017, sommelier Kendra Anderson Why she opened Bar Helix: “I have been AA: Instead of just moving Bar Helix out- opened Bar Helix, a petite Negroni- in love with the Negroni for years, but there doors, you came up with a new concept, centric lounge in Denver’s RiNo isn’t as much familiarity with it in Denver evoking rotating getaways like Mykonos, neighborhood. When COVID-19 Phuket, and Rio. Why? as in other cities. I’ve spent a good amount forcedI her to re-invent, the enterprising of time explaining the cocktail’s origins and Anderson turned a neighboring vacant ingredients.” KA: I liked the idea of sending Bar Helix patio into the escapist pop-up, Cabana X. off on vacation to glamorous jet-setting Summertime hit: The tropical Banana destinations with pools and cabanas. We Hammock (brown butter-washed bourbon, were hopeful it would be well-received, ALIA AKKAM: What was your mindset when Mathilde banana liqueur, Scrappy’s choco- but it went beyond our imagination. I am restaurants and bars first closed in March? late bitters, cocoa-dusted plantain chip). overwhelmed by all those guests who said they felt they got the respite we all needed KENDRA ANDERSON: When the governor Pandemic-era silver lining: Cabana X’s from this year at Cabana X. legalized sales of alcohol to-go, we knew footprint was much larger than Bar Helix’s, we had a decent shot since Negronis are so so Anderson was able to hire additional staff. AA: You successfully maintained brand straightforward and conducive to batch- momentum—and garnered sales—this ing. For two months we did take-out cock- Why she thinks virtual events like summer, but Cabana X is about to wind tails, and in May I began contemplating Negroni Week (which transformed this down. What’s next for Bar Helix? what we would do when we could re-open. September to raise funds solely for the restaurant and bar community) are a KA: I’m not sure if re-opening makes AA: What led you to launch Cabana X good idea: “There is a lack of understand- sense from a safety or revenue-generating in June? ing how deeply the crisis is affecting the perspective. Bar Helix is not a daytime hospitality world, and we have to collaborate spot; it’s not going to be busy at 4 p.m. We KA: The layout of Bar Helix is quite inti- so these industries don’t collapse.” need business in those later hours and mate and cozy, with a small lounge, 20- that’s not an option now because the al- foot patio, and the bar as the main de- cohol curfew is at 11 p.m. I have also asked sign feature. With the social-distancing I began to think about the restaurant next the question: Is my bar essential? I have restrictions, we wouldn’t have been able door that had closed in December. Its pa- had a bit of an existential crisis, struggling to fit that many people. We are on the tio, three times the size of Bar Helix’s, was with staying open and encouraging people ground floor of an apartment building and sitting empty for months. to gather. ■

• SMOKE + MIRRORS Ingredients: Method: Combine ingredients 1 oz Campari and ice in a mixing glass. Stir This Negroni variation heeds the ½ oz Banhez Mezcal well to combine, then strain into original proportions, but agave ½ oz Espolón Blanco Tequila an Old Fashioned glass over spirits—in this case a tequila- 1 oz Carpano Antica Formula fresh ice and garnish with an mezcal combo—replace the gin. Vermouth orange twist. KENDRA ANDERSON COURTESY OF BAR WERGES HELIX BRITTANY BY / COCKTAIL

S & W LIQUORS CELEBRATING 50 YEARS & STILL FIGHTING THE GOOD FIGHT

BY TEDDY DURGIN

ome journalists are just fated to write certain articles. case of it in here last Friday. It lasted me one hour, and it was all gone!" September 2020 will mark my 50th year on this planet. Like other operators, Shifflett has August 2020 marked S & W Liquors' 50th year in busi- made the necessary physical changes ness. A random assignment? Or … destiny? I'm going to his establishment to stay in business. "We've installed Plexiglas on both sides withS the latter. of the store," he noted. "Everyone has to wear masks. It's a pain, but we do it. Kevin Shifflett is the third-generation easy at times. Shifflett stated, "The pan- We also have social distancing stickers on owner and operator of the Temple Hills demic has been a blessing and a curse. the floor to tell everybody to stay six feet store that has been in his family since the Of course, everyone knows how liquor apart when they're in line. There's also late summer of 1970. "I've been here my sales have grown. For us, it's been very, hand sanitizer by every one of my credit entire life," he said, during a recent inter- very busy especially in that peak April, card machines." view with the Beverage Journal." May, June timeframe. And it's still going S & W Liquors is located next door For Shifflett, customer service has al- pretty strong for us." to a Giant Food supermarket. Conse- ways been the top priority. "When peo- He continued, "The problem has quently, one of the big battles Shifflett ple have a wedding or big get-together, been the liquor companies have SO many got involved in last year was defeating we always do big bulk buy purchases for out of stocks! For instance, Mike's Hard legislation that would have allowed gro- them and give them discounts on what- Lemonade -- I haven't been able to buy cery stores and big-box retailers to sell ever they need. We put together a good any of that now in almost a month! We beer and wine. "I wouldn't say I attended list and try and stay within their ballpark of also had a problem with Modelo, which every single time there was a hearing," what they're willing to spend." is a huge brand. At least at my store, te- he remarked, "but I was there for prob- While there have been fewer such quila has been the No. 1 growth category ably 90 percent of them. We weren't re- large gatherings in 2020 due to the coro- throughout all this. I can't keep the high- ally able to speak. But when I was at the navirus, S & W Liquors has still posted im- end tequilas in stock. Don Julio 1942 is hearing, I let myself be known. The last pressive sales numbers. But it hasn't been normally $130 or $140 a bottle. I got one

38 BEVERAGE JOURNAL October 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com one was in Annapolis. At that particular event, Blaise Miller of BK Miller’s was able to speak and he actually used my store as a prime example when he was up there talking to the delegates. Because we're near a Giant, I was all for whatever I needed to do to help protest the legislation. It would have been a devastating blow to me!" “I'm not a huge store” Shifflett continued. “We're only about 2,600 square feet. There are some bad liquor stores out there that don't do what they're sup- posed to do. But we keep a clean store and we have done a lot for our employees and customers. Throughout our 50 years, my family has been donating to the community – little leagues and churches. We have 17 employees, 2 just recently hired. Most of them have been with me for 15+ years.” Shifflett [sighing] said “This will prob- ably come back up again in January.” And if and when it does, he takes comfort in the fact that he will be fighting alongside the Maryland State Licensed Bever- age Association (MSLBA) on the issue. "The MSLBA keeps me informed," he said, "with e-mails on all of the hearings and events. The association fights for us, it's a fantastic organization, and I pay my dues every year to be a part of it." n

AreAre You You a a Member Member of of MSLBA, MSLBA, MarylandAre StateAre You YouLicen a aMember Membersed Beverage of of MSLBA, MSLBA, Association ? MarylandMaryland State State Licen Licen sedsed BeverageBeverage Association Association? ?

MSLBA members Marylandare Maryland beer, State wine Licen& spiritssed retailers Beverage representing Association bars, clubs, restaurants? & MSLBA membersMSLBA membersare Maryland are Maryland beer, beer, wine wine & & spirits spirits retailers representing representing bars, bars,clubs, restaurantsclubs, restaurants & & stores on alcohol beverage issues. They know their best chance for competently and successfully MSLBAstores on membersalcoholstores on beveragealcoholare Maryland beverage issues. beer,issues. They wine They know &know spirits theirtheir retailersbestbest chance chance representing for forcompetently competently bars, and clubs, successfully and restaurants successfully & dealing with dealingexternal with forces external such forces as such legislation, as legislation, regulation, regulation, suppliers, suppliers, enforcement enforcement agencies, agencies, prohibition prohibition dealingstores on with alcohol external beverage forces suchissues. as legislation, They know regulation, their best suppliers, chance forenforcement competently agencies, and successfully prohibition efforts, and unfairefforts, andcompetition, unfair competition, is by joiningis by joining MSLBA MSLBA with with otherother independentindependent retailers retailers for reputable for reputable efforts,dealing withandrepresentation. unfairexternal competition, forces such isas by legislation, joining MSLBA regulation, with suppliers, other independent enforcement retailers agencies, for prohibition reputable representation. representation.efforts, and unfair competition, is by joining MSLBA with other independent retailers for reputable

representation. Message from ______of ______:

Message from ______Message from ofKevin ______Shifflett of S & W :Liquors: Message from ______of ______:

Message from“The ______association [MSLBA] of ______fights for us, it’s a fantastic organization!":

MSLBA—Representing Alcohol BeverageMSLBA LicenseesNew Logos 050703.qxd since 1950 5/10/2003 7:50 AM Page 1

MSLBAMSLBA——RepresentingRepresenting Alcohol Alcohol Beverage Beverage Licensees Licensees since since 1950 1950 Contact MSLBA for Membership Information: MSLBA—Representing Alcohol Beverage Licensees since 1950 Phone: (410) 871-1377 E-Mail: [email protected]

Contact MSLBAVisit usfor on theMembership web at www.mslba.org Information: Contact MSLBA for Membership Information: Phone:Contact (410) MSLBA 871-1377 forE-Mail: Membership [email protected] Information: Phone: (410) 871-1377 E-Mail: [email protected] Phone: (410)Visit 871 us- 1377on the E web-Mail: at www.mslba.org [email protected] Visit us on the web at www.mslba.org Visit us on the web at www.mslba.org Turning inventory. And heads. That’s Proof.

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