Mt. Rainier: 4 ½ Day Summit Climb / Disappointment Cleaver Route

© 2009 International Mountain Guides

Why Choose This Program? Our 4 ½ Day Ingraham Glacier/Disappointment Cleaver summit program is the most relaxed approach offered to climb Mt. Rainier. The four-day program increases our opportunity for success on the mountain. There is time incorporated into this program for resting and recovery after each day’s activities. We climb as light and efficiently as possible and rely on the shelter at Camp Muir to avoid carrying extra gear or tents. The extra day spent at Camp Muir allows for better acclimatization to the altitude prior to the summit day, and more time to enjoy the majestic glacier environment with your climbing team.

We maximize training by adding a half day pre-climb orientation and instructional meeting at IMG’s Headquarters in Ashford, just outside the park. We incorporate training en route during the trip to Camp Muir and utilize the following day at Muir to rest, conduct the bulk of our training and acclimatize. By spending two nights at Camp Muir prior to the summit day, we avoid carrying heavier packs up to a higher camp. There is a tradeoff in doing this, but we feel the extra time spent at Muir and the lighter overall pack weight fairly evenly offsets the advantages of departing on summit day from a higher camp. This is especially suited for those who would prefer to go as light as possible.

IMG employs a light and efficient philosophy for climbing. To minimize the weight on your backs we provide shelter, stoves, cook gear and group climbing gear for you at Camp Muir. Climbing without these the first day (4,600ft of elevation gain) helps considerably and allows you to arrive at camp more rested for the climb ahead. We help you review your personal climbing gear carefully prior to departure to make sure you are not carrying unnecessary weight up the mountain.

IMG provides breakfasts, dinners and hot drinks for the group on the mountain. We feel this adds a lot to the experience in terms of convenience, comfort and camaraderie.

Climbing with a 2:1 client-to-guide ratio provides a superior level of support and safety. Our group size is never larger than twelve (8 climbers and 4 guides).

What’s the difference between the 4 ½ day and the 3 ½ day program? The biggest difference between the two climbs is the additional days spent at Camp Muir during the ascent and on the descent during the 4 ½ day climb. The team will stop at Camp Muir for the last night on the mountain making summit day a little more manageable and enjoyable for the team. On the 3 ½ day program the team descends through Camp Muir all the way down to Paradise.

Prerequisite: There are no prerequisites. All training is conducted during the pre-climb orientation and the climb itself. All that is required is good physical fitness and previous training carrying an overnight pack. For training suggestions please review the information provided on our Rainier FAQ column: http://www.mountainguides.com/rainier-faq.shtml#21 Mt. Rainier: page 2 of 2

Dates: September (Please see the IMG website for specific, available dates.) Landcost: $1,595 Client to Guide Ratio: 2:1 Trip Length: 4 ½ days

Itinerary

The Ingraham Glacier/Disappointment Cleaver on Rainier is a classic ascent route on one of the most well known and recognized mountains in the world.

Day 1 – Meet in Ashford at HQ (Directions) at 2:00pm for the pre-climb meeting. This meeting of 4-5 hours is instrumental in getting the team outfitted, informed, packed and educated prior to departure the following morning. Topics to be covered include an introduction of the entire team, an introduction to Mt. Rainier National Park, its mission and ecology; a safety briefing; issue and fitting of gear; personal gear checks and issue of group gear; proper use of safety equipment including helmets and harnesses; introduction to knots, ropes, rope travel and a review of additional critical climbing skills.

Day 2 – Meet at HQ at 8:00am for an early departure to Paradise (5420 ft.) inside National Park. We ascend to Camp Muir at 10,080 ft. through picturesque alpine meadows and snowfields. Plan on a long day; hiking and climbing for roughly 5-6 hours and gaining 4,788 ft. over 4 ½ miles to Camp Muir. We will spend the night in the guide hut at Camp Muir overlooking the Nisqually and Cowlitz glaciers and the rugged Tatoosh range to the South.

Day 3 – This day is a fairly relaxing one and helpful for acclimatization. After a casual breakfast we conduct a glacier travel and skills training school on the Cowlitz Glacier adjacent to Camp Muir. A summit meeting with the guides will take place in the afternoon followed by an early dinner and a short night’s sleep.

Day 4 – Day 4 starts with an alpine start, up as early as midnight with a hot, instant breakfast. We’ll rope up for the first glacier travel across the Cowlitz Glacier. This leads to a steep ascent up a scree trail through the Cathedral Gap. Once through the Gap we’ll cross the Ingraham Glacier to the “Ingraham Flats” at 11,000ft for a first break. From the Flats the route typically ascends the steep rocky ridge trail up Disappointment Cleaver (12,400ft). We eventually gain the upper slopes of the mountain via the Ingraham or the Emmons Glacier leading to the summit crater. We’ll spend an hour or more on top, weather permitting and walk over to the true summit, Columbia Crest. In descent, we navigate the glaciers back down to the Flats for a break, then move an hour lower down the mountain to Camp Muir for a well deserved rest, dinner and a great night’s sleep.

Day 5 – We’ll end our trip with a nice breakfast at Camp Muir, gather our gear and begin our 2-3 hour descent down to Paradise where our van will be waiting for us and the shuttle back to Ashford. A debrief and awarding of certificates by the guides brings our climb to a close.

International Mountain Guides www.mountainguides.com email: [email protected]

PO Box 246 31111 SR 706 Ashford, WA 98304 phone: (360) 569-2609 fax: (866) 279-7455