Mt. Rainier: 4½ Day Emmons Glacier Summit Climb Interglacier / Camp Schurman / Emmons Glacier Route Experience Level: Novice  2021 International Mountain Guides

Why Choose This Program? Our 4½ Day Emmons Glacier Summit Climb is an excellent basic mountaineering training program. It’s perfect for anyone desiring a less-rushed summit experience in a more remote alpine environment, away from the bigger crowds found on the South side of the mountain. The focus of this group climb is on glacier skills training, self-sufficiency and teamwork. This climb is more physically demanding than the standard 3.5 Day Summit Program due to the heavier loads, the longer distance traveled, and lower-elevation start. All group equipment is carried by the team, resulting in an average pack weight of about 45-55 pounds. The Emmons Route incorporates significant roped glacier travel, which the team prepares and trains for each day during the approach to Camp Schurman. Despite being longer than our other novice-level climb on Mt. Rainier, this route is popular due to its consistently moderate snow and relatively few objective hazards. The Emmons Route is a great choice if you are looking for a more complete mountain experience, training as a team on a less frequented route on the largest glacier in the lower 48 States.

While our 4.5 Day Emmons Glacier Summit Climb is suitable for novice climbers with little or no previous climbing experience, this program does require adequate fitness and endurance training in order to be successful.

While climbing Mt. Rainier is never an easy endeavor, the longer nature of this program enables you to climb comfortably within your limits, and to enjoy a slower-paced descent on the final day of the program. Additionally, you’ll spend two nights at or above 8,200ft, which will help you feel better rested and acclimatized on summit day. Our 4.5 Day Program is recommended for anyone hoping to avoid the bigger crowds of the standard 3.5 Day Summit Program, while continuously learning the skills for safe glacier travel on a big mountain. Choose this program to enjoy a less-rushed, more self-sufficient alpine experience. In addition to the training throughout the program, we’ll include a half day pre-climb instructional orientation at IMG’s Headquarters in Ashford, just outside Rainier National Park. We’ll incorporate the bulk of the practical training during each day of the ascent. This increases acclimatization, minimizes total days for the trip and allows for training to be conducted on the mountain in real conditions.

IMG employs a light and efficient philosophy for climbing. IMG will provide shelter, stoves, fuel, cookware and group climbing gear (ropes, pickets, shovels, etc.) for the team to carry to each camp. We will help you review your personal climbing gear prior to departure to make sure you are not carrying any unnecessary weight up Mt. Rainier. Total personal gear, including filled water bottles, should be approximately 50 pounds, excluding your boots and trekking poles.

Safety is our number one priority. We make no guarantees with respect to the program objectives. Many circumstances, including weather and abilities of yourself or other climbers may inhibit you from reaching the summit. Our goal is to give each of our customers the best experience we possibly can, regardless of the weather, route conditions, or time of year.

IMG Mt. Rainier Emmons Glacier Summit Climb: page 2 of 3

Prerequisites: There are no specific climbing prerequisites for this program. All that is required is an eagerness to learn, a significant base of cardiovascular physical fitness, and previous experience carrying an overnight pack. You will be expected to carry this weight over the course of many hours each day. For training suggestions please review the information provided on our Training for Rainier page. This is a novice climb for those interested in learning elements of travel on big, glaciated mountains. Technical training is conducted during the pre-climb orientation and continually throughout the climb.

Dates: May – August (Please see the IMG website for specific, available dates.) Land cost: $2,395 Client to Guide Ratio: 2:1 Trip Length: 4½ days

Cost includes: Cost Does Not Include: • IMG's world-renowned guide staff • Personal gear (see equipment list for full • All training curriculum and instruction details) • Round trip transportation from IMG Headquarters to the • Lodging the evening prior to the start of the start/end of the climb. *Note that this is subject to change climb or after the end of the program based on Covid restrictions • Lunch food and mountain snacks. Please refer • Group equipment including tents, stoves, fuel, climbing ropes to our food suggestions page for more details. and group hardware • National Park entrance and climbing permits • Hot meals (breakfast and dinner) and hot drinks (coffee, tea, cocoa). *Note that this is subject to change based on Covid restrictions

“Just can't even thank you enough for the incredible experience I just had summiting Mt. Rainier with your company... What a remarkable team of guides we had. Making the summit was an amazing experience, but if it had not been for our awesome guides, the whole trip would not have been nearly as incredible as it was. Thank you for putting together such a fine team of exceptional guides. They were patient, funny, experienced, knowledgeable, and excellent teachers. I always felt safe and had a blast. I will definitely be climbing with you again. I've already been looking at your website to see what fits into my schedule for my next climb. Thanks again. You guys are simply the best! I'll be back.” —Polly P.

“I signed up for this trip with the goals of gaining some basic mountaineering skills and experience, and hopefully reaching the summit of ... I found your entire operation to be first-class, from the registration process and intervening communications through the entire climb with your outstanding guides...” —Jerry V.

For more comments from IMG climbers, please see our website at: www.mountainguides.com/comments.shtml

International Mountain Guides  www.mountainguides.com  email: [email protected]

PO Box 246  31111 SR 706 E  Ashford, WA 98304  phone: (360) 569-2609  fax: (866) 279-7455 IMG Mt. Rainier Emmons Glacier Summit Climb: page 3 of 3

Itinerary Day 1 – Meet in Ashford at IMG Headquarters (Directions) at 2:00pm for your pre-climb orientation. This orientation is instrumental in getting you outfitted, informed, packed and educated prior to departure the following morning. Topics to be covered include an introduction to your climbing team; an introduction to Mount Rainier National Park, its mission and ecology; a safety briefing; the examining, issuing and fitting of gear; and instruction on the proper use of safety equipment including helmets, harnesses and avalanche beacons. Lodging is not provided the night of Day 1.

Day 2 – Meet at IMG HQ at 7:00am and prepare to depart for the White River trailhead. Please eat breakfast before arrival. Depending on timing constraints, we may stop at a coffee shop along the way where you’ll be able to buy additional snacks. It will take us a couple hours to drive around the Park to the White River trailhead at 4,500ft on the NE side of Mt. Rainier. The first section of trail covers 3 miles through dense forest to Glacier Basin before continuing up steeply over rough trail and snow to our first camp at 8,200ft on the Interglacier. Just below camp, we’ll stop for training in the use of the ice axes and efficient climbing techniques. Upon arrival at our camp site, the guides will teach you how to construct a well sheltered and anchored tent camp on the glacier.

Day 3 – On Day 3, we will climb a relatively short distance to our high-camp at Camp Schurman, located at 9,600ft below the Steamboat Prow, a wedge formation that divides the Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers. En route to Camp Schurman, we will ascend the Emmons Glacier which will provide us with a perfect opportunity to practice roped glacier travel, one of the skills we will need in ascending the upper mountain the following day. Once at Camp Schurman, we’ll learn about constructing a proper expedition camp while incorporating LNT techniques, then hold an informational meeting to discuss the summit climb. We’ll have dinner and get to bed early.

Day 4 – Our summit day takes us up the Emmons “Corridor” and often onto the Upper depending on the route location. The conditions can vary greatly but we usually encounter crevasses, snow bridges, and some moderately steep snow climbing. Throughout the day, the guides will be directing their rope teams while providing safety feedback and hands-on training of safe travel techniques. We normally reach the summit crater close to the true high point, Columbia Crest. We will spend about an hour on the summit (weather permitting) before descending. The round trip typically takes about 12 hours in total. After arriving back to Camp Schurman, we’ll get some well-deserved rest during our final night on the mountain.

Day 5 – The following morning, we’ll descend the Interglacier and retrace our steps back down to the White River Trailhead by early afternoon. From there, we’ll load up for the ride back around the mountain to IMG headquarters in Ashford. At HQ, we’ll wrap up the trip with an awarding of certificates of achievement by the guides. The average program ends around 4PM but unpredictable variables may significantly impact our return time.

International Mountain Guides  www.mountainguides.com  email: [email protected]

PO Box 246  31111 SR 706 E  Ashford, WA 98304  phone: (360) 569-2609  fax: (866) 279-7455