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Umschlag, Inhaltsverzeichnis Bei den Wäschern von Mahalakshmi Kolonialarchitektur hautnah erleben Höhlenkunst auf der Elefanteninsel Sonnenuntergang am Marine Drive inklusive WEB Rainer Krack APP City|Trip EXTRATIPPS Z Übernachtungs-Spartipp für Backpacker: das Lawrence Hotel S. 115 Z Gourmettempel mitten im Chaos: Mumbai Thalis bei Shree Thaker Bhojanalaya S. 65 Z Besichtigung im Pferdetrab: Bombay Stadtrundfahrt mit der Tonga S. 113 Z Das vielleicht beste Buffet der Stadt: schlemmen im J.W. Marriott am Juhu Beach S. 120 Z Unterkunft für Paarhufer: in Panjrapole die heiligen Kühe füttern S. 20 Z Völlerei im Gotteshaus: sonntäglicher Festschmaus im ISKCON-Tempel S. 50 Z Der größte Textilmarkt Asiens: der Mulji Jetha Market mit 600 Läden S. 81 Z Spannende Schatzsuche: stöbern auf dem legendären „Thieves’ Market“ S. 81 Z Mysteriöse Ruhestätte für Heilige: Banganga Goswami Shmashan S. 41 Z Indische Totenrituale: Sonapur, Electric Crematorium und Bada Qabristan S. 44 Z Legendärer Stehimbiss: mit großem Fleischspieße bei Bade Miyan S. 61 P Erlebnis vor- City-Faltplan schläge für ein j Die ins Meer gebaute Haji Ali Dargah verzeichnet langes Wochen- täglich einen großen Besucherstrom (S. 42) ende, Seite 8 Viele EXTRATIPPS: Entdecken ++ Genießen ++ Shopping ++ Wohlfühlen ++ Staunen ++ Vergnügen ++ Rainer Krack CITY|TRIP MUMBAI Nicht verpassen! Karte S. 3 Fort [H9] Global Vipassana É Einst war Fort das Zentrum des à Pagoda [S. 144] alten Bombay, heute ist es ein quirliges Bombastischer kann die Hingabe an Bud­ Geschäftsviertel, in dem viele Kolonial­ dha nicht sein: Die goldene Pagoda besitzt bauten zu bewundern sind (s. S. 24). die größte ohne Stützpfeiler erbaute Kuppel der Welt und bietet bis zu 8000 Gläubigen Bhuleshwar [G4] Platz. Man kann hier auch an Meditations­ Ì Nirgends liegen Religion und kursen teilnehmen (s. S. 51). Geschäftstüchtigkeit näher beieinander: Im Geschäftsviertel Bhuleshwar findet sich Sanjay Gandhi National Park an nahezu jeder Ecke ein Tempel und es â und Kanheri Caves [S. 144] wird fast genauso inbrünstig gebetet wie Raus aus dem urbanen Chaos und ab in geschachert (s. S. 31). die Natur? Nichts leichter als das. Im San­ jay Gandhi National Park gibt es noch Tiger Gateway of India und und Leoparden und die im Park gelegenen Ð Taj Mahal Hotel [H12] Kanheri Caves mit ihren Gebetshallen sind Zwei unvergessliche Wahrzeichen der ein kulturelles Highlight (s. S. 52). Stadt, die man gesehen haben muss: Das architektonisch einzigartige „Taj“ und das Elephanta Island [S. 144] pompöse Gateway of India stehen selbst ã Eine Bootsfahrt, die sehr lehrreich bei indischen Touristen ganz oben auf der ist: Per Schiff geht es zu den Höhlen auf Besuchsliste (s. S. 35). Elephanta Island, die mit faszinierenden religiösen Reliefs und Figuren geschmückt Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus sind. Den einzigartigen Ausblick auf das Ñ (C.S.T.) [I7] Taj Mahal Hotel und das Gateway of Mumbais prächtigstes Gebäude und einer India Ð gibt es dazu (s. S. 53). der eindrucksvollsten Bahnhöfe der Welt ist zu allen Tageszeiten eine Augenweide, vor allem aber in der Abenddämmerung Leichte Orientierung mit (s. S. 37). dem cleveren Nummernsystem Die Sehenswürdigkeiten sind im Text und Banganga Tank [ah] im Kartenmaterial mit derselben magenta- × Wer hätte das gedacht: Inmitten farbenen ovalen Nummer É markiert. Alle der Stadt und umgeben von Hochhäusern anderen Lokalitäten wie Geschäfte, Res­ findet sich ein kleiner heiliger Ort voll spiri­ taurants usw. tragen ein Symbol und eine tueller Atmosphäre und dörflicher Ruhe fortlaufende rote Nummer (S1). Die Liste (s. S. 40). aller Orte befindet sich auf Seite 139, die Zeichenerklärung auf Seite 143. 2016-_ct-mumbai_Vorspannkarte.pdf 1 08.04.2016 10:03:52 Mumbai auf 0 1000 m einen Blick © REISE KNOW-HOW 2016 Siddhivinayak Þ Temple Juhu Beach Ü ßSri Sri Radha Rasabihari áMahakali Temple Caves àGlobal â Sanjay Gandhi Vipassana National Park, Pagoda Kanheri Caves Haji Ali Dargah Ú Jijamata Bhosle Û Udyan Ù Mahalakshmi Ý Mahalakshmi Dhobi Ghat Temple ã Elephanta Island Babulnath Temple Bhendi Ô Bazar Hanging ÕSri Sri Radhag- Î Inhalt Ö opinath Temple Gardens Ó ØMumbadevi Bhuleshwar Ì Temple ÍZaveri Bazar 7 Mumbai entdecken Marine Drive und KalbadeviË Chowpatty Beach × Crawford Market Ò 8 Mumbai in drei Tagen Banganga Tank Chhatrapati Shivaji Ñ Terminus (C.S.T.) 24 Tempel-, Markt- und Ê É Ballard Geschäftsbereiche in Fort Estate Süd-Mumbai 24 É Fort *** [H9] 28 Die Parsen: Pioniere, Ð Gateway of India Philan thropen, Eigenbrötler und Taj Mahal 30 Ê Ballard Estate * [J8] Palace Hotel 30 Ë Kalbadevi ** [G5] 31 Ì Bhuleshwar *** [G4] Afghan Ï 32 Vitamine gegen den bösen Blick Church 33 Í Zaveri Bazar ** [H4] 34 Î Bhendi Bazar ** [H2] 35 Einzelne Sehenswürdigkeiten in Süd-Mumbai 35 Ï Afghan Church * [bj] 35 Ð Gateway of India und Taj Mahal Palace Hotel *** [H12] 37 Ñ Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (C.S.T.) *** [I7] 37 Ò Crawford Market (Mahatma Jyotirao Phule Market) ** [H5] 38 Ó Marine Drive und Chowpatty Beach ** [C3] 38 Ô Babulnath Temple * [B2] 38 Õ Sri Sri Radhagopinath Temple * [B2] 39 Ö Hanging Gardens (Pherozeshah Mehta Gardens) * [A2] 40 × Banganga Tank *** [ah] 4 Inhalt 41 Ø Mumbadevi Temple * [G4] 42 Ù Mahalakshmi Temple * [af] 42 Ú Haji Ali Dargah ** [bf] 43 Û Mahalakshmi Dhobi Ghat * [bf] 44 Indische Totenrituale 46 Ü Siddhivinayak Temple ** [cd] 46 Ý Jijamata Bhosle Udyan (Veermata Jijabai Bhosle Udyan) und Zoo ** [cf] 47 Entdeckungen im nördlichen Mumbai 47 Þ Juhu Beach ** [S. 144] 47 ß Sri Sri Radha Rasabihari Temple (ISKCON Temple) * [S. 144] 48 Bollywood: bunte Unterhaltung für die Massen 51 Entdeckungen am Stadtrand 51 à Global Vipassana Pagoda *** [S. 144] 51 á Mahakali Caves (Kondivita Caves) ** [S. 144] 52 â Sanjay Gandhi National Park und Kanheri Caves *** [S. 144] 53 ã Elephanta Island *** [S. 144] 55 Mumbai erleben 56 Mumbai für Kunst- und Museumsfreunde 59 Mumbai für Genießer 73 Mumbai am Abend 74 Smoker’s Guide 76 Mumbai für Kauflustige 82 Mumbai zum Träumen und Entspannen 83 Zur richtigen Zeit am richtigen Ort 83 Pir Badshah Sandal: „High“ für den heiligen Butterkerl 84 Das gibt es nur in Mumbai: die flinken „Büchsenmänner“ 87 Mumbai verstehen 88 Das Antlitz der Metropole 90 Von den Anfängen bis zur Gegenwart 92 Leben in Mumbai 93 Praktische Reisetipps 94 An- und Rückreise 95 Ausrüstung und Kleidung 96 Autofahren 96 Barrierefreies Reisen 97 Straßen(schilder)kampf: Briten raus, Inder rein 98 Diplomatische Vertretungen 98 Ein- und Ausreise bestimmungen 100 Elektrizität Inhalt 5 100 Film und Foto 100 Geldfragen Zeichenerklärung 102 Gesundheitsvorsorge 103 Hygiene *** nicht verpassen 103 Mumbai mit kleinem Geldbeutel ** besonders sehenswert 104 Informationsquellen * wichtig für speziell 106 Internet und Internetcafés interessierte Besucher 106 Meine Literaturtipps 108 Maße, Gewichte und Zähleinheiten [A1] Planquadrat im Kartenmate­ 108 Medizinische Versorgung rial. Orte ohne diese Angabe liegen 109 Mit Kindern unterwegs außerhalb unserer Karten. Ihre Lage 109 Notfälle kann aber wie von allen Orts marken 110 Notrufnummern mit hilfe der begleitenden Web­App 110 Öffnungszeiten angezeigt werden (s. S. 143). 110 Post 111 Schwule und Lesben Vorwahlen 111 Sicherheit 112 Sprache µ für Indien: 0091 112 Stadttouren µ für Mumbai: 022 113 Telefonieren 114 Uhrzeit Abkürzungen und 114 Unterkunft Sonderzeichen 121 Verhaltenstipps 123 Verkehrsmittel µ ` = Symbol für die indische Rupie 126 Versicherungen µ ā, ī, ū – lang gesprochene Vokale 127 Wetter und Reisezeit µ Bldg. = Building (Gebäude) µ C.S.T. = Chhatrapati Shivaji 129 Anhang Terminus µ (E)/(W) = Osten (East)/Westen 130 Kleine Sprachhilfe Hindi und Englisch µ MH = Bundesstaat Maharashtra 135 Register µ veg./non­veg. = vegetarisch/ 138 Der Autor nicht­vegetarisch 138 Schreiben Sie uns µ Rd. = Road (Straße) 138 Impressum µ St. = Street (Straße) 139 Liste der Karteneinträge 143 Legende der Karten- und Textsymbole Adressangaben 143 Mumbai mit PC, Smartphone & Co. 144 Karte Mumbai, Umgebung Viele größere Gebäude in Mumbai sind mit einem Namen (auf Englisch, Hindi oder Marathi) bezeichnet, und so wird oft dieser Gebäudename statt einer Hausnummer angegeben. An vielen Gebäuden sind Hausnum­ mern gar nicht zu finden. Bei posta­ lischen Angaben steht die Postleit­ zahl nach dem Namen der Stadt. 138 Der Autor, Schreiben Sie uns, Impressum Der Autor Schreiben Sie uns Rainer Krack, geb. 1952, lebt als freier Dieses Buch ist gespickt mit Adressen, Reiseschriftsteller in Bangkok, verbringt Preisen, Tipps und Daten. Unsere Autoren aber mindestens das halbe Jahr auf Rei- recherchieren unentwegt und erstellen alle sen in Süd- oder Südostasien. Zu Indien zwei Jahre eine komplette Aktualisierung, hat er eine ganz besondere Verbindung: aber auf die Mithilfe von Reisenden können Es war an einem Strand in Goa, etwa um sie nicht verzichten. Darum: Teilen Sie uns 1980, als bei einem spektakulären, golde- bitte mit, was sich geändert hat oder was nen Sonnenuntergang die Idee entstand, Sie neu entdeckt haben. Gut verwertbare irgendwann „in ferner Zukunft“ nur noch Informationen be lohnt der Verlag mit einem herumzureisen und Bücher zu schreiben. Sprachführer Ihrer Wahl aus der Reihe Mysteriösen karmischen Umständen ist zu „Kauderwelsch“. verdanken, dass der Wunsch schon wenige Kommentare übermitteln Sie am ein- Jahre später in Erfüllung ging. fachsten, indem Sie die Web-App zum 1978 besuchte Rainer Krack zum ers- Buch aufrufen (siehe Umschlag hinten) ten Mal Mumbai (damals noch Bombay) und die Kommentarfunktion bei den einzel- und war sogleich von der Stadt fasziniert. nen auf der Karte angezeigten Örtlichkei-
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