Emerging Designers Australia and New Zealand
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Australia and New Zealand have rich fashion histories belied by the two nationsʼ geographical isolation. In the last decade the region has produced fashion superstars and indie fashion favorites like Dion Lee, Karen Walker, Sass & Bide, Ksubi, Ellery, and Zimmerman, not to mention surfwear giants like Quiksilver. While Rosemount Australian Fashion Week is producing more and more designers to watch, the region also boasts some of the worldʼs edgiest fashion mags in the form of Russh, and Oyster. As island nations, the beach and ocean loom large in cultural mythologies, influencing styles that combine European edge and West Coast ease, with a strong dose of the regionʼs tough, individualist irreverence. In the first of a series of new regional reports, Stylesight highlights ten of the freshest young designers. Name: Shakuhachi Site: shakuhachi.net Founded: Late 1990s Designer: Jessie White From: Sydney Key Retailers: Over 150 doors worldwide including Shopbop, Tuchuzy Burwood, ASOS, Barneys Japan, Urban Outfitters Categories: Women's and Juniors' apparel and footwear Key items: Sheer maxis, expertly-cut mini dresses, deconstructed tees Inspiration: Coastal gypsetters who follow up-to-the-minute trends from the catwalks Notable for: RAFW runway show / Flagship store in Paddington Site: Perks and Mini Name: www.perksandmini.com Founded: 2000 Designers: Married couple Misha Hollenbach and Shauna Toohey, who named P.A.M. after their respective graffiti tags From: Sydney Key Retailers: Karmaloop, Boundless NY, Sometime, and Fat Categories: Juniorsʼ and Young Menʼs streetwear Key items: T-shirts, ball caps, button-front shirts, sweatshirts Inspiration: Australian street and graffiti culture Notable for: Collaborations with Stussy and Yamantaka Eye (of the band the Boredoms) / Pambook , the companyʼs book store Related Report: Active Capsule - Global Bike > References –Asia & Australia Site: One Teaspoon Name: www.oneteaspoon.com.au Founded: 2001 Designer: Jamie Blakey From: Sydney Key Retailers: Over 150 retailers worldwide, including Barneys, Retail Therapy, Parliament, ASOS, Revolve Clothing Categories: Women's and Juniorsʼ apparel, denim, swimwear Key items: Distressed cutoff denim shorts, ultra-wide flared jeans, draped flowing dresses, knit tops Inspiration: Urbane surfer girls Notable for: Blakeyʼs homespun international success story / Press including Vogue Hong Kong and Remix Related Reports: April 11 – Denim Details > Mud Wash | Bread & Butter F/W 11 – Juniors Apparel > Forever Fur Name: Vanishing Elephant Site: www.vanishingelephant.com Founded: 2008 Designers: Felix Chan, Huw Bennett, and Arran Russell From From: Sydney Key Retailers: Over 100 retailers worldwide, including 11:11 OʼClock, Fat, Bloomingdales, Atrium, W Hotels South Beach, Odin, Blackbird Categories: Menʼs and Young Menʼs apparel and footwear Key items: Rugged, colorful four-pocket chinos, woven button fronts, tribal take on “Go to Hell” pants Inspiration: Classic American sportswear and workwear with ethnic touches Notable for: Awarded Designer of the Year at the 2010 GQ Men of the Year Awards in Sydney / Press in Menʼs Style, Menʼs Health, Instyle, and Remix Magazine Related Reports: Premium F/W 11 – Men's & Young Men's > Toggle Tale | Premium F/W 11 – Denim > Utility Name: ManiaMania Site: www.themaniamania.com Founded: 2009 Designers: Stylist Tamila Purvis and art director Melanie Kamsler who met while working at Russh Magazine From: Sydney Key Retailers: Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Tenoversix, Shopbop, Zimmermann, The Corner Shop Categories: Womenʼs jewelry Key items: Chunky crystal rings, bronze and silver necklaces, sculptural cuffs Inspiration: Bohemian 90s love child meets vagabond artist Notable for: Celebrity fans include Devendra Banhart, Alison Mosshart and Erin Wasson / Most recent lookbook shot by Barnaby Roper stars top model Abbey Lee Kershaw Name: Neuw Site: www.Neuw.com.au Founded: 2010 Designers: Par Lundqvist, Stephen Little and Richard Bell From: Melbourne Key Retailers: Over 100 retailers worldwide, including Atrium, Ron Robinson- Fred Segal, and Parliament Categories: Menʼs, Young Menʼs, Womenʼs, and Juniorsʼ denim and apparel Key items: Colorful denim with creative constructions and finishes Inspiration: Reworked vintage denim, chinos, aviator gear Notable for: Celebrity fan Usher / Instantaneous international buzz / Press in Menʼs Instyle and Denim Therapy Related Reports: Premium F/W 11 – Men's & Young Men's > Toggle Tale | Premium F/W 11 – Denim > Utility Name: We Are Handsome Site: wearehandsome.com Founded: 2010 Designers: Indhra Chagoury and Jeremy J. Somers From: Sydney Key Retailers: Opening Ceremony, Nasty Gal, 11:11 OʼClock, Mint Shop, Tuchuzy, and Violent Green Categories: Swimwear and active Key items: Artistic photo-printed swimwear, mini dresses and leggings featuring quirky animal and landscape imagery Inspiration: Too-cool socialite pool partiers Notable for: Celebrity fans Rihanna and Diane Kruger / Swimwear featured on Matt Sweeney and Bonnie “Prince” Billyʼs 10-inch vinyl Must Be Blind (2011) / Recent blog initiative featuring emerging photographers shooting the brandʼs suits Related Reports: Brand Watch: Swimwear S/S 11 > We Are Handsome | Speed to Market > The Basic Bodysuit Name: Ruby Site: www.rubynz.com Founded: 2008 Designer: Deanna Didovich From: Auckland, NZ Key Retailers: Four bricks and mortar boutiques in New Zealand, as well as ten other doors in Australia and New Zealand, and Damsel in Distress in New York City Categories: Women's and Juniorsʼ apparel, swimwear, footwear Key items: Trim, tailored separates with grunge touches, clever dresses and skirts in muted color palettes Inspiration: Cutsey-chic indie rock girls Notable for: Fashion week collaboration with Rosemount Ruby O Sparkling Wine / Worldwide appeal and press like Refinery 29, Youth and Freedom, Bullet Magazine, Viva Magazine, and the Sunday Star Times Name: The Critical Slide Society Site: thecriticalslidesociety.com Founded: Artsy surfers wonʼt tell! Designers: Jim Mitchell and Sam Coombes From: Sydney Key Retailers: Over 90 doors worldwide, including United Arrows, Beams T, Swell, Thalia Surf, Katin Surf Shop, Urban Outfitters, and Deus Ex Machina Categories: Young Menʼs surfwear and out-of-water basics Key items: Boarshorts, knits in classic surf stripes, tees, light outerwear, retro skateboards Inspiration: Artistic surf bros, the ocean, and Japan Notable for: Hipster surf press in the likes of Stab Magazine, Blue Magazine Japan, and Monster Children / The label is founded by former designers for Australian 90s giant Mambo Related Reports: Greenroom Festival 2010 > Green Room Collabos Active Capsule - Vintage Surf Redux > Jan and Dean Name: MINKPINK Site: www.minkpink.com Founded: 2005 Designer: Rachel Evans From: Sydney Key Retailers: Over 1000 doors across Australia and New Zealand and international stores including Revolve Clothing and ASOS Categories: Juniorsʼ apparel, eyewear, swimwear, jewelry, bags, belts Key items: Statement jackets, distinctive dresses, casual knits Inspiration: Abbey Lee Kershaw, Isabel Lucas, Jessica Hart, and everyday girls with an eye for designer fashion, but a normal sized pocketbook Notable for: Tinseltown fans such as the Kardashians, Whitney Port and Katie Perry .