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Contents

List of Maps vi

What’s New in 1

1 The Best of Costa Rica 4 1 The Best of Natural Costa Rica ...... 4 9 The Best Ecolodges & 2 The Best Beaches ...... 5 Wilderness Resorts ...... 16 3 The Best Adventures ...... 8 10 The Best Bed & Breakfasts & Small Inns ...... 17 4 The Best Day Hikes & Nature Walks ...... 10 11 The Best Restaurants ...... 18 5 The Best -Watching ...... 11 12 The Best Views ...... 19 6 The Best Destinations for Families . . .13 13 The Best After-Dark Fun ...... 19 7 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts . . .14 14 The Best Websites about Costa Rica ...... 20 8 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels . . .15

2 Planning Your Trip to Costa Rica 21

1 The Regions in Brief ...... 21 11 Sustainable Tourism/Ecotourism . . . .40 2 Visitor Information & Maps ...... 23 Frommers.com: The Complete 3 Entry Requirements ...... 23 Travel Resource ...... 41 4 When to Go ...... 24 12 Staying Connected ...... 41 Calendar of Events ...... 25 13 Packages for the Independent Traveler ...... 43 5 Getting There ...... 27 Ask Before You Go ...... 44 6 Money & Costs ...... 30 14 Escorted General-Interest Tours . . . . .44 What Things Cost in Costa Rica . . . .32 15 Getting Around Costa Rica ...... 44 7 Travel Insurance ...... 33 16 Tips on Accommodations ...... 48 8 Health ...... 34 17 Tips on Dining ...... 52 9 Safety ...... 37 Fast Facts: Costa Rica ...... 53 10 COPYRIGHTEDSpecialized Travel Resources ...... 37 MATERIAL

3 Suggested Costa Rica Itineraries 58

1 Costa Rica in 1 Week ...... 58 4 A High-Octane Week 2 Costa Rica in 2 Weeks ...... 60 of Adventures ...... 63 3 Costa Rica for Families ...... 62 5 San José in 3 Days ...... 65 02_138311 ftoc.qxp 8/21/07 6:06 PM Page iv

iv CONTENTS

4 The Active Vacation Planner 67

1 Organized Adventure Trips ...... 67 Monkey Business ...... 84 2 Activities A to Z ...... 69 4 Tips on Health, Safety & Etiquette Where to See the Resplendent in the Wilderness ...... 85 Quetzal ...... 71 5 Ecologically Oriented Volunteer & In Search of Turtles ...... 80 Study Programs ...... 86 3 Costa Rica’s Top National Parks & Bioreserves ...... 80

5 San José 88

1 Orientation ...... 89 5 What to See & Do ...... 122 “I Know There’s Got to Be a 6 Outdoor Activities & Number Here Somewhere. . . .”: Spectator Sports ...... 127 The Arcane Art of Finding an 7 Shopping ...... 129 Address in San José ...... 90 Joe to Go ...... 130 The Neighborhoods in Brief ...... 94 8 San José After Dark ...... 134 2 Getting Around ...... 95 9 Side Trips from San José ...... 139 Fast Facts: San José ...... 97 Holy Smoke! Choosing the 3 Where to Stay ...... 100 Volcano Trip That’s Right 4 Where to Dine ...... 114 for You ...... 144 Only in the Central Valley: Dining under the Stars on a Mountain’s Edge ...... 117

6 Guanacaste & the Nicoya Peninsula: The Gold Coast 149

1 Liberia ...... 150 6 Playa Tamarindo & Playa Grande . . .177 2 La Cruz & Bahía Salinas ...... 158 7 Playa Junquillal ...... 189 3 Playa Hermosa, Playa Panamá & 8 Playa Nosara ...... 191 Papagayo ...... 160 9 Playa Sámara ...... 196 4 Playa del Coco & Playa Ocotal . . . .166 10 Playa Tambor ...... 201 5 Playas Flamingo, Potrero, 11 Playa Montezuma ...... 204 Brasilito & Conchal ...... 171 12 Malpaís/Santa Teresa ...... 210 02_138311 ftoc.qxp 8/21/07 6:06 PM Page v

CONTENTS v The Northern Zone: Mountain Lakes, Cloud Forests & 7 a Volcano 215 1 Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí ...... 215 Taking a Soothing Soak in 2 Arenal Volcano & La Fortuna . . . . .223 Hot Springs ...... 226 Boats, Horses & Taxis ...... 224 3 Along the Shores of Lake Arenal . . .236 4 Monteverde ...... 240

The Central Pacific Coast: Where the Mountains 8 Meet the Sea 254

1 Puntarenas ...... 254 3 Manuel Antonio National Park . . . .274 Diving Trips to Isla del Coco 4 Dominical ...... 292 () ...... 258 5 San Isidro de El General: A Base for 2 Playa de Jacó & Playa Herradura . . .260 Exploring Chirripó National Park . . . .299

9 The Southern Zone 305

1 Drake Bay ...... 305 3 Golfito: Gateway to the Those Mysterious Stone Spheres . . . .310 Golfo Dulce ...... 322 2 Puerto Jiménez: Gateway to 4 Playa Zancudo ...... 328 ...... 313 5 Playa Pavones: A Surfer’s Mecca . . .331

10 The Coast 334

1 Barra del Colorado ...... 334 4 Cahuita ...... 348 2 Tortuguero National Park ...... 338 5 Puerto Viejo ...... 355 3 Limón: Gateway to Tortuguero National Park & Southern Coastal Beaches ...... 345

Appendix A: Costa Rica in Depth 369

1 The Natural Environment ...... 369 4 Recommended Books ...... 375 2 Costa Rica Today ...... 371 5 Gallo Pinto, Ceviche & Frescos: 3 History 101 ...... 372 Costa Rican Food & Drink ...... 376 Dateline ...... 373 02_138311 ftoc.qxp 8/21/07 6:06 PM Page vi

vi CONTENTS Appendix B: Glossary of Spanish Terms & Phrases 379

1 Basic Words & Phrases ...... 379 3 Menu Terms ...... 382 2 Some Typical Tico Words & Phrases ...... 381

Appendix C: Costa Rican Wildlife 384 with assistance from E. Z. Weaver

1 Fauna ...... 384 2 Flora ...... 396

Index 400

List of Maps

The Best of Costa Rica 6 Guanacaste & the Nicoya Costa Rica in 1 Week 59 Peninsula 151 Costa Rica in 2 Weeks 61 Tamarindo 179 Costa Rica for Families 63 The Northern Zone 217 A High-Octane Week Monteverde 241 of Adventures 64 The Central Pacific Coast 255 San José in 3 Days 65 Manuel Antonio 275 San José 92 The Southern Zone 307 The Central Valley 141 The Caribbean Coast 335