02_138311 ftoc.qxp 8/21/07 6:06 PM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi What’s New in Costa Rica 1 1 The Best of Costa Rica 4 1 The Best of Natural Costa Rica . .4 9 The Best Ecolodges & 2 The Best Beaches . .5 Wilderness Resorts . .16 3 The Best Adventures . .8 10 The Best Bed & Breakfasts & Small Inns . .17 4 The Best Day Hikes & Nature Walks . .10 11 The Best Restaurants . .18 5 The Best Bird-Watching . .11 12 The Best Views . .19 6 The Best Destinations for Families . .13 13 The Best After-Dark Fun . .19 7 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts . .14 14 The Best Websites about Costa Rica . .20 8 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels . .15 2 Planning Your Trip to Costa Rica 21 1 The Regions in Brief . .21 11 Sustainable Tourism/Ecotourism . .40 2 Visitor Information & Maps . .23 Frommers.com: The Complete 3 Entry Requirements . .23 Travel Resource . .41 4 When to Go . .24 12 Staying Connected . .41 Calendar of Events . .25 13 Packages for the Independent Traveler . .43 5 Getting There . .27 Ask Before You Go . .44 6 Money & Costs . .30 14 Escorted General-Interest Tours . .44 What Things Cost in Costa Rica . .32 15 Getting Around Costa Rica . .44 7 Travel Insurance . .33 16 Tips on Accommodations . .48 8 Health . .34 17 Tips on Dining . .52 9 Safety . .37 Fast Facts: Costa Rica . .53 10 COPYRIGHTEDSpecialized Travel Resources . .37 MATERIAL 3 Suggested Costa Rica Itineraries 58 1 Costa Rica in 1 Week . .58 4 A High-Octane Week 2 Costa Rica in 2 Weeks . .60 of Adventures . .63 3 Costa Rica for Families . .62 5 San José in 3 Days . .65 02_138311 ftoc.qxp 8/21/07 6:06 PM Page iv iv CONTENTS 4 The Active Vacation Planner 67 1 Organized Adventure Trips . .67 Monkey Business . .84 2 Activities A to Z . .69 4 Tips on Health, Safety & Etiquette Where to See the Resplendent in the Wilderness . .85 Quetzal . .71 5 Ecologically Oriented Volunteer & In Search of Turtles . .80 Study Programs . .86 3 Costa Rica’s Top National Parks & Bioreserves . .80 5 San José 88 1 Orientation . .89 5 What to See & Do . .122 “I Know There’s Got to Be a 6 Outdoor Activities & Number Here Somewhere. .”: Spectator Sports . .127 The Arcane Art of Finding an 7 Shopping . .129 Address in San José . .90 Joe to Go . .130 The Neighborhoods in Brief . .94 8 San José After Dark . .134 2 Getting Around . .95 9 Side Trips from San José . .139 Fast Facts: San José . .97 Holy Smoke! Choosing the 3 Where to Stay . .100 Volcano Trip That’s Right 4 Where to Dine . .114 for You . .144 Only in the Central Valley: Dining under the Stars on a Mountain’s Edge . .117 6 Guanacaste & the Nicoya Peninsula: The Gold Coast 149 1 Liberia . .150 6 Playa Tamarindo & Playa Grande . .177 2 La Cruz & Bahía Salinas . .158 7 Playa Junquillal . .189 3 Playa Hermosa, Playa Panamá & 8 Playa Nosara . .191 Papagayo . .160 9 Playa Sámara . .196 4 Playa del Coco & Playa Ocotal . .166 10 Playa Tambor . .201 5 Playas Flamingo, Potrero, 11 Playa Montezuma . .204 Brasilito & Conchal . .171 12 Malpaís/Santa Teresa . .210 02_138311 ftoc.qxp 8/21/07 6:06 PM Page v CONTENTS v The Northern Zone: Mountain Lakes, Cloud Forests & 7 a Volcano 215 1 Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí . .215 Taking a Soothing Soak in 2 Arenal Volcano & La Fortuna . .223 Hot Springs . .226 Boats, Horses & Taxis . .224 3 Along the Shores of Lake Arenal . .236 4 Monteverde . .240 The Central Pacific Coast: Where the Mountains 8 Meet the Sea 254 1 Puntarenas . .254 3 Manuel Antonio National Park . .274 Diving Trips to Isla del Coco 4 Dominical . .292 (Cocos Island) . .258 5 San Isidro de El General: A Base for 2 Playa de Jacó & Playa Herradura . .260 Exploring Chirripó National Park . .299 9 The Southern Zone 305 1 Drake Bay . .305 3 Golfito: Gateway to the Those Mysterious Stone Spheres . .310 Golfo Dulce . .322 2 Puerto Jiménez: Gateway to 4 Playa Zancudo . .328 Corcovado National Park . .313 5 Playa Pavones: A Surfer’s Mecca . .331 10 The Caribbean Coast 334 1 Barra del Colorado . .334 4 Cahuita . .348 2 Tortuguero National Park . .338 5 Puerto Viejo . .355 3 Limón: Gateway to Tortuguero National Park & Southern Coastal Beaches . .345 Appendix A: Costa Rica in Depth 369 1 The Natural Environment . .369 4 Recommended Books . .375 2 Costa Rica Today . .371 5 Gallo Pinto, Ceviche & Frescos: 3 History 101 . .372 Costa Rican Food & Drink . .376 Dateline . .373 02_138311 ftoc.qxp 8/21/07 6:06 PM Page vi vi CONTENTS Appendix B: Glossary of Spanish Terms & Phrases 379 1 Basic Words & Phrases . .379 3 Menu Terms . .382 2 Some Typical Tico Words & Phrases . .381 Appendix C: Costa Rican Wildlife 384 with assistance from E. Z. Weaver 1 Fauna . .384 2 Flora . .396 Index 400 List of Maps The Best of Costa Rica 6 Guanacaste & the Nicoya Costa Rica in 1 Week 59 Peninsula 151 Costa Rica in 2 Weeks 61 Tamarindo 179 Costa Rica for Families 63 The Northern Zone 217 A High-Octane Week Monteverde 241 of Adventures 64 The Central Pacific Coast 255 San José in 3 Days 65 Manuel Antonio 275 San José 92 The Southern Zone 307 The Central Valley 141 The Caribbean Coast 335.