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Home , Brassia arcuigera, Cassia grandis, Ceiba pentandra, Pentaclethra macroloba, Raffia palm, Tortuguero National Park

MG Study Travel Program, 2016

Feb 22 – Floating to Tortuguero On our first day of the 2016 MG tour of Costa Rica, we left the big city of San Jose up in the mountains of the central valley, drove across the Continental Divide, and down the Atlantic slope to the lowlands. We went from the lush of Braulio Carrillo National Park at the top of the Central Volcanic Mountain Range down to open pasture, plantations – stopping briefly at the edge of one field to look at the and bagged fruits – Driving through Braulio Carrillo National Park.

Banana plantation (L), (LC), flowers (RC), and bagged fruit (R). and other agriculture on the flat lands, to eventually arrive at the landing spot for boat transportation to our lodge in Tortuguero. This small town on the edge of one of the most remote and pristine parks in Costa Rica, , is accessible only by boat or air. This coastal area of northern Costa Rica and adjacent is a low alluvial floodplain with permanent or seasonal swamp forests in the lowest and flattest areas. This was once an archipelago of volcanic islands until alluvial sediments from the interior mountains filled in the spaces and formed an extensive network of marshy islands interspersed by natural freshwater creeks, canals and , forming the flooded forest.

After we were settled in the long, flat boat our captain navigated the shallow water of the tidal canal, slowing to maneuver around submerged obstacles, and speeding up in straight spots. We plied the chocolate brown waters snaking through rainforest of stunted and tall palms.

The group in the boat (L) and heading through the brown water (R).

Huge raffia palms () draped their long fronds in graceful arches nearly to the water in many places, with other interesting vegetation including many Heliconia pogonantha with pendant red , white‐flowered anthuriums, and tall trees sticking up way above the others. Around one curve after another we went in the narrow channel, with brown sandy banks in many places, until we arrived at the big Tortuguero River, and after negotiating a very shallow spot – it was at low tide – we zoomed off toward the village of Tortuguero. There was similar vegetation on this wide channel of muddy‐looking water, but here we started passing docks of resorts, small homes, and a few of the long open boats the local use (as opposed to the covered boats for transporting tourists).

Raffia palm (L), blooming Heliconia pogonantha (C), and the Tortuguero River.

We arrived at Mawamba Lodge about an hour later, situated on a narrow strip of land between the river and the ocean. We could just see – but definitely hear the roar of – the surf pounding on the beach just on the other side of the park‐like plantings of the lodge. After lunch and a quick dip in the pool for some, we headed out on our afternoon excursion to town to visit the Conservancy (STC) (http://www.conserveturtles.org/).

A big attraction of Tortuguero for many people is the turtles. The coastal zone of the National Park, which has a sandy beach nearly 22 miles long, is the second largest green turtle (Chelonia midas) nesting beach in the world. Leatherback (Dermochelys coriacea) and hawksbill (Eretmochelys imbricata) turtles also nest on the beaches here. The nesting season for green and hawksbill turtle’ runs from July to October with the peak in August, while the leatherbacks nest from February to April. The females come up on the beaches at night to lay eggs well above the high tide mark. The eggs incubate in the warm sand for 7 to 10 weeks before hatching. After the hatchlings dig their way to the surface they have to run across the beach to the surf, usually under the cover of darkness. A guide is required to visit the beaches at night (no one is allowed on the beach unaccompanied after 6:00 pm).

STC is the world's oldest sea turtle research and conservation group founded in 1959 by world‐renowned sea turtle expert Dr. Archie Carr to save sea turtles from eminent extinction through rigorous science‐based conservation. The organization, headquartered in Florida, carries out worldwide programs to conserve and recover sea turtle populations through research, education, advocacy and protection of the natural upon which depend upon. STC focused on sea turtles for its conservation efforts in part because these ancient creatures are among the most important indicators of the health of the world's marine and coastal ecosystems. We learned about these animals, the importance of Tortuguero as a nesting site, and how the attitude of the locals has changed from using the turtles for food and other destructive uses, to conserving them as part of their natural heritage and basis for ecotourism.

Kari and Gustavo impersonate sea turtles (L); guide Gustavo tells the group about sea turtles (R).

After that we took the sandy trail just off the beach to the small village of Tortuguero, walking the one main street – with a tiny church, rustic police station, a little grocery store and a number of small souvenir shops – admiring the various ornamental plants growing there.

The village of Tortuguero (L); Bixa orellana (achiote or annato) with pink flowers, red seed pods and dried brown seed pods (C); and flowering Clerodendrum paniculata (R).

Feb 23 – Exploring Tortuguero National Park This morning’s activity was an excursion to Tortuguero National Park. Over 77,000 acres was declared a National Park in 1970 after being protected as a turtle nesting sanctuary since 1963. The park has great biological diversity and ecosystems including tidal swamps, rainforest, beaches, and lagoons, with more than 400 species of trees and about 2,200 species of other plants. The trees here are shorter than those of non‐flooded forest because of the instability caused by the wet, poorly drained soils. Along the coast the forests grade into mangrove forests, and estuary, beach and marine habitats. The lowland flooded forest of Tortuguero The only way to tour the Park is in a boat, and we had to stop at National Park can only be explored by boat. the Park Office first to pay the entrance fee. While Gustavo was doing that, we looked at some of the floating aquatic plants, including water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes), water pennywort (Hydrocotyle sp.), and something else none of us knew that had interesting sausage‐shaped air bladders underneath to keep it afloat.

The Park Office (L), water lettuce (LC), and an unknown floating (RC) with white bladders to keep it afloat (R).

After Gustavo purchased our entrance tickets, our boat captain Hancy took us across the river to enter the systems of natural and a few man‐made canals that form a network through the area to look for plants and wildlife. One of the first things we encountered was Pachira aquatic. This is one of the most conspicuous trees along the Tortuguero canals, but it occurs in many other wet areas from southern Mexico to and , as well as being cultivated in some other regions in the world—with many common names including malabar chestnut, provision , and money tree. It has a buttressed trunk, growing up to 60 feet tall, with palmate on long petioles, and dramatic flowers with white, strap‐like petals and numerous long red . We only saw a couple of the flowers, but many of the rounded, reddish‐brown fruits which can grow up to 12 inches long and 2.5 inches in diameter. Monkeys and other animals eat the seeds.

The foliage of Pachira aquatic (L), flower (C), and fruit (R).

Most of this area is well‐matured secondary growth. Huge trees towered over a very thick understory of small trees, palms, and shrubs. Some of the other plants we focused on included , Raphia taedigera, that we also saw lots of on the boat ride here. This is one of about 20 species of palms in the Raphia (the others are native to tropical and ) that are a source of raffia , produced from the membrane on the underside of each individual frond , used in , , baskets and . The plants have very long, arching leaves that create dense shade that limit the growth of other plants. They occur in dense stands along the edges of the canals in Tortuguero National Park, as well as in other swampy areas of the country. The other very common and distinctive tree here is gavilán ( macroloba). This tall tree in the pea family () has pinnate leaves that are twice compound, arranged in a spiral on the stems, with 15‐20 paired leaflets. Erect, arching of up to 200 small white flowers each produce a single fruit. The hard, curved, brown pods split open to release the seeds at maturity. This is common in the wet Atlantic lowlands, and in many parts of Tortuguero where the other hardwood trees had been harvested in the past, leaving these less useful (for timber, at least) trees behind.

The leaves (L) and seed pods of (C); this tree and raffia palms are some of the most common trees in Tortuguero National Park (R).

Our boat pilot skillfully navigated through the shallows and fallen trees while Gustavo pointed out plants and and insects and and reptiles.

The group in the small boat (L) plying the canals of Tortuguero (R).

We got good views of sloths and caimans, iguanas, emerald basilisks and turtles.

Three‐toed sloth (L) and spectacled caiman (R).

Iguana (L), young emerald basalisk (C), and Central American slider and black river turtle (R).

Colorful butterflies fluttered around and dragonflies flitted here and there. Howler monkeys let us know that they knew we were near, but they didn’t allow us to get a look. The sun shone brightly through breaks in the canopy, but also we were in deep shade in some areas. We saw numerous birds, some widespread and also seen in the US, but others unfamiliar to the group.

Female anhinga (L), little blue heron (LC), bare‐throated tiger heron (C), northern jacana (RC) and yellow‐ crowned night heron (R).

Sungrebe (L), royal terns (LC), colorful dragonfly (RC), and wolf spider with egg case (R).

In the late afternoon we went for a walk in the forest adjacent to the lodge, looking at a diversity of birds and plants and insects. We learned about the cecropia tree (Cecropia spp.), a very fast‐growing tree with a distinctive ringed trunk, open canopy and large, palmate leaves. It is an early succession plant in disturbed areas or when land is allowed to revert back to native forest. This tree has a symbiotic relationship with Azteca spp. ants which protect its foliage from other animals that try to eat it. Sloths are about the only that is unfazed by the ants, so they are often seen in these trees. The unusual fruits on the female trees are eaten by many birds and other animals. We watched a Montezuma orenpenola feeding on one, and later found a small troop of howler monkeys that were foraging in the cecropia trees. They would break off the fruits, but sometimes were being chased off by the ants, so often retreated to other nearby trees to eat the fruits.

Looking up a cecropia tree (L), oropendola feeding on hanging cecropia fruits (LC), howler monkey reaching for cecropia fruit (RC), and eating the long fruits (R).

When we returned to the lodge we encountered a small planting of (Piper nigra) growing on a trellis. Gustavo told the group about this exotic plant, then we tasted one of the spicy fruits!

Black pepper fruits (L), Becky tastes a fresh black pepper fruit (C), and pepper vine leaves (R).

The wildlife wasn’t restricted to the forest – many birds visited or were living on the lodge property, too. Someof the many birds we saw here included oropendolas nesting in one of the tall trees, a flock of twelve green flying overhead, and keel‐billed toucans came to eat the fruits off a palm near the swimming pool.

Montezuma oropendolas constructing nests (L), green macaws flying overhead (LC), keel‐billed toucan eating palm fruit (RC) and sitting in a tree (R).

Feb 24 – From Hot Lowlands to Cool Cloud Forest Today was a long travel day, starting out with a short boat ride to the tiny airstrip in Tortuguero for an early flight back to San Jose. On the boat to the airport (L), the colorful plane and open‐air terminal at the end of the runway (C), and getting the safety briefing onboard (R).

We flew over the canals and rainforest of Tortuguero, the areas that had been cut for pasture land or housing very noticeable. Soon we were passing over mostly agricultural area, with little blocks of forest here and there. Banana plantations were large blue‐green rectangles below, with a small yellow plane flying low along the rows spraying the crops in one area. Off on the left side the smoldering caldera of Volcan Turrialba soon was visible, with a small plume of smoke drifting off into the air.

Flying over the canals of Tortuguero, with Caribbean Sea in background (L), a plane spraying a banana plantation (C), and smoking Turrialba Volcano (R).

On the right side we could see the wide braided rivers meandering the Atlantic lowlands, and then soon we were going over the slopes of the Central Volcanic Range, with the deep green forested slopes of Braulio Carrillo NP. We could see the winding road we’d taken a couple days before through the National Park, then soon the area transitioned back to agriculture, then the urban area of the Central Valley. The 20‐minute flight gave a great perspective on land use, and a dramatic visual demonstration of the impact of deforestation.

Braulio Carrillo National Park from the air (L), agriculture on the outskirts of the metropolitan area of San Jose (C), and blooming poró trees (Erythrina poepiggiana) amid the coffee plantations around the city (R).

We then drove out of the Central Valley to the drier, western side of the country. This is an area of dry tropical forest, with different rainfall patterns and much less rain (about 40 inches annually) than on the Atlantic side of the Continental Divide. There are almost no epiphytes here and many introduced grasses cover many of the slopes. Soon we were in the dry forest, with many flowering trees including the bright yellow buttercup (Cochlospermum spp.) and duller yellow Schizolobium parahyba trees – a favorite nesting site for scarlet macaws, especially closer to the coast – and pale pink poui (Tabebuia rosea). There were golden shower trees, fistula, with bright yellow pendant flower clusters and the related Cassia grandis with its dull rosy‐pink flowers.

Blooming golden shower tree, Cassia fistula (L), pink poui, Tabebuia rosea (C), and pink shower tree, Cassia grandis (R).

Broad, spreading, mostly leafless Guanacaste trees (Enterolobium cyclocarpum) with its distinctive, ear‐shaped seed pods and the similar, darker barked rain trees (Albizia saman) formed a canopy over the road in places. There were still some cercropia trees like we’d seen in the wet Atlantic areas (a different species here, though), but most of the vegetation was very different than on that rainy side of the country. Everything looked dry here, with dusty open ground and many trees without leaves. The living fences here were made primarily of Bursera simaruba, with its shiny green peeling red bark inspiring common names of naked Indian or tourist tree (like a peeling sunburn).

A large, leafless rain tree, Albizia saman (L) and a living fence of Bursera simaruba (R).

In late morning we stopped at Café y Macadamia and Orchimex for an early lunch. Although the restaurant has a macadamia ‐themed menu, they don’t actually grow any here (that crop needs more water than would be practical to provide here; macs are grown on the Atlantic side of the mountains). We dined at the beautiful rustic tables made of highly polished local on the terrace behind the building, with the area under shade cloth mulched with macadamia nut shell halves and pieces. The food and beverages were beautiful and delicious.

The outdoor seating area at Café y Macadamia (L), the macadamia shell mulch (LC), Cindy showing off her fancy iced tea (RC), and Kari enjoying her lunch (R).

After eating we got to take a brief tour of the orchid operation, a large area under shade cloth filled with hybrid orchids either growing unpotted on mesh tables or in pots filled with a medium of pumice and macadamia shells, depending on the type. This is a cut flower operation, with 300 flowers harvested daily for shipment to the US, Mexico, and Nicaragua.

The group touring Orchimex (L) and colorful orchid flowers (C and R).

Orchid potting medium of pumice and macadamia shells (L) and colorful orchids (LC, RC and R).

Then we were headed to head into the mountains on route 606 to Monteverde, 40 km away. The twisting, winding road took us between living fences of stout‐trunked Bursera cuttings that had been topped over and over as they sprouted and grew too tall. White brahma‐type cattle grazed in pastures of golden grass, and the hillsides were covered in mostly leafless trees, some blooming with flowers of white, yellow or pink. Mango trees with their lush foliage and hanging fruit stuck out amid the dry conditions. Just outside the little town of Guacimal we passed a waterfall and shortly thereafter stopped near an isolated residence for dramatic photos from the overlook of the distant dry hills.

Waterfall near the town of Guacimal (L), Cindy and Becky at the overlook (C), and dark clouds gather above the bus (R).

Panoramic view of the tropical dry forest.

Eventually we made it up to the town of Monteverde, near the private Monteverde Cloudforest Preserve that is administrated by the Tropical Science Center. Later that afternoon we went to Bajo de Tigre where we met with Zuchowski, author of A Guide to Tropical Plants of Costa Rica. She gave a presentation that began by introducing us to ProNativas, a network of scientists, biologists, landscapers and gardeners in Costa Rica organized to raise awareness of the important, propagation, and use of native ornamental plants and their contribution in conservation and beauty. They have 8 gardens in the area to showcase native plants, and many partners throughout the area and in other parts of the country and receive financial support from many organizations, including the US Fish and Wildlife Service (because of the importance of Costa Rican forest to migratory birds). She also discussed the plant families with the most species in Costa Rica, mentioning some examples used locally and others we might grow at home, or as houseplants. We also had a tour of the greenhouse where they propagate native plants for their many projects, and saw a few native plants in bloom nearby.

Willow answering questions after her presentation (L), Maureen, Cindy and Becky check out the plant Willow is showing them (C), and Willow tells more about the Preserve (R).

Native vine, Mucuna sp. or chandelier vine in the bean family, with green, ‐pollinated flowers (L and LC) and brown seed pods (RC) hanging on long, rope‐like stems. Native terrestrial orchid Epidendrum radicans (R).

Feb 25 – Walking With Willow This morning we visited Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Preserve with Willow Zuchowski, author of A Guide to Tropical Plants of Costa Rica. It was awesome having a world‐renowned expert leading us through the forest, stopping every couple of feet to look at another plant. She enthusiastically told us about the specific things we saw, but also discussed the weather patterns of the area, in bromeliads, fig pollination, the relationship between hummingbird beak length and curvature and the shape of flowers, Willow tells the group about fig pollination.

Willow explaining about the palm Chamaedorea costaricana (L), red flowers of Razisea spicata (LC), yellow flowers of Burmeistera parviflora (RC), tree (R).

Blooming bromeliad Pitcairnia brittoniana on a tree (L) and inflorescence (LC), palm Prestoea sp. (RC), pink flower of Drymonia conchocalyx. about begonia flowers and their method of pollination by deception, the most common families of trees that occur here – although there are over 180 plant families represented – and more. We made really slow progress on the narrow rock and dirt trail as there was a cool flower here, and interesting tree there, now an unusual plant with an interesting life history, and another beautiful flower.

Begonia cooperi plant (L), female flower (C), male flower (R).

Centropogon solanifolius flowers (L), seeds of Pitcairnia brittoniana (C), Drymonia rubra flower (R).

Millipede (LC), flowers of Cavendishia sp. (L), the group on the trail (R).

We learned about the thermogenic flowers of Xanthosoma, how some trees produce aerial that grow into the thick covering of on their limbs, and the impact of climate change on some of the species here (including the disappearance of the golden toad that used to live Willow points to the inflorescence of tall elephant ear, Xanthosoma undipes (L), only on the very top of the flower closeup (C) and and epiphyte covered tree (R). mountain).

Jim taking a picture (L) of Bomarea caldasii (R).

We hiked up the steep trail to the Continental Divide, where we could see the Pacific Ocean way off in the distance in one direction, and the slopes going down the Atlantic on the other side. It was nearly hurricane force winds up on the exposed top – and the trees are shorter than lower on the slopes because of the stunting effect of the intense wind – but relatively protected when we were under the canopy. The strong wind made photographing small flowers especially challenging.

Looking east from the Continental Divide at Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Preserve.

Of course we stopped to look at any birds we saw or heard along the way. For much of the time we were serenade by a black‐faced solitaire, and periodically saw redstarts (two different kinds). Toward the end of the walk Willow heard a quetzal, and Gustavo was able to get the female in the scope for a short while before it flew off. The girl is not nearly as spectacular as the boy, lacking the long turquoise tail the male has. We searched in vain as we went through areas they had been seen in recently, but never saw another.

Black guan (L), redstart (C) and female resplendent quetzal (R).

But we did get to see some of the small fruits of trees related to avocadoes that are their main food source.

Aguacatillo (“little avocado”, Ocotea sp. ) tree (L), and fruits (C and R).

Once we returned to the entrance we made a short visit to the hummingbird garden, where numerous species of the tiny, colorful birds zipped around the feeders.

Hummingbirds flock to the feeders (L), green crowned brilliant (LC), violet sabrewing in flight (RC), juvenile black‐ throated mountain gem (R).

After lunch we toured Jardín de Orquídeas (Monteverde Orchid Garden). This secluded garden right in the center of busy Santa Elena has more than 450 species of orchids, nearly all native to this area. We were issued magnifying glasses, as so many of these species are miniatures, with tiny flowers to go along with the tiny plants.

Entrance to Jardin de Orquideas (L), Maureen poses in the big orchid flower (LC), B’Ann inspects a tiny orchid flower (RC), Masdevallia striatella flower (R).

Our guide first explained the working parts of an orchid flower and how they are pollinated, then took us around the winding paths, pointing out many interesting specimens. There are a few showy species with dramatic flowers, but most are so small that you could easily walk by the plants without even noticing them, much less realizing they are in flower – a lot of the flowers were less than ¼ inch long.

The guide points out an orchid to the group (L), blossoms on a grass‐like orchid (LC), Becky and Linda look at a tiny orchid flower (R).

Leptanthes horrida (L), orchids growing on the small trees (LC), Speelinia leterina flowers (RC), Pleurothalis phyllocordia (R).

Most are mounted on the trees or were in hanging containers. Some look like typical orchid plants, but others resemble grass, , or pepperomias. A flower spike may have a solitary flower at the end, or there may be dozens of blossoms in regular ranks along the spike. Some come out of the middle of the leaf, others are on gracefully arching stems.

An oncidium flower (RC), arcuigera (LC), C. discolor (RC), Dan, Kari and Willow look at orchids (R).

Such a diversity of unique and interesting species! We even got to see Platystele jungermannioides, purported to be the world’s smallest orchid, in bloom – with little rounded leaves about 1/8 inch long and a flower only 2.5mm wide.

Dan looks at the smallest orchid in the world (L), the plant of Platystele jungermannioides (C) and its tiny flower in front of the end of the fingernail (R).

Feb 26 – Dropping Out of the Clouds We had a little taste of what it’s like most of the time in a cloud forest this morning, with heavy mist/light rain drifting over from the cloud‐shrouded mountain. Usually the mountain top is enveloped in clouds, so we felt fortunate to have had a clear but windy day to explore the Preserve, instead of having to contend with both rain and wind as was happening today. The conditions of rain in one direction and bright sun in the other were perfect to create an intense rainbow that filled the sky for us as we departed Monteverde. We returned down the mountain on the same gravel road we’d traversed previously, seeing the same dry pastures, Rainbow at Monteverde. colorful flowering trees, and small ranch houses along the way.

Clouds on the mountain (L), farm gate (C), and golden hills with Gulf of Nicoya in the distance.

Today we encountered more wildlife, however, seeing a black spiny iguana cross the road in front of us, a crested caracara up in tree, and two troops of howler monkeys lounging in tree tops.

Howler monkeys in a tree (L), a group of monkeys (LC), hanging out on a branch (RC), and mom and baby (R).

Our next adventure was taking the ferry from Puntarenas across the Gulf of Nicoya. Once onboard we watched the frigatebirds, terns, gulls and pelicans flying around, and the small fishing boats coming in to the dock.

Boarding the ferry (L), royal tern (C) and sandwich tern (R).

Brown pelican (L), laughing gull (C), magnificent frigatebird (R).

We pulled away from the land, leaving the cloud‐topped mountains behind us for an uneventful 70 minute journey across the calm ocean to the Nicoya Peninsula.

Looking back at the cloud‐topped Tilaran Mountain Range where Monteverde is located.

Kari, Ann, Jim, Cindy and Dan on the ferry (L), small islands in the Gulf (C), exiting the ferry (R). After lunch in the little town near the ferry landing, we drove through dry forest and pasturelands to our resort on the ocean. Broad Guanacaste trees formed a lacy dome above the canopy in places, with dense forests of leafy trees and palms. Then the fences were made of just‐sprouting jocote (Spondias purpurea), with little halos of green backlit in the sun on top. Many of the trees had furry, brown‐looking or small orchids (not blooming) or fat cactus growing in them. We drove past little towns, patches of palms, grassy fields with a few large trees shading them, open areas, pink‐flowered Cassia grandis, fields with white cattle and their attendant cattle egrets, and hills covered with dry tropical forest.

Pastures and dry tropical forest (L), jocote as living fence (C), Guanacaste tree in field (R).

Close to the town of Tambor a pair of scarlet macaws flew across the road ahead of us and went up into a tall tree. We pulled off to the side of the road and everyone hopped out to look at the big red birds. Gustavo set up his spotting scope for better views, although we could just pick out the two large, colorful birds up there with the naked eye (but a bit of a challenge looking right into the sun at that point. We arrived at our accommodations for the next two nights, Tango Mar Resort, right on the ocean in mid‐afternoon. The rest of the afternoon was at leisure, Scarlet . with people walking along the beach, floating in the pool and enjoying drinks at the swim‐up bar, or resting in the hot air.

The pool at Tango Mar, with the ocean beyond (L), Maureen, Anne, Susan, Kari, and Linda cool off at the swim‐ up bar (C), late afternoon on the beach (R).

Feb 27 – Pelicans in Plumeria Today was a free day, so everyone was on their own to relax or take the optional excursions.

The ocean from the restaurant at breakfast (L), crashing waves (C), palm trees line the beach (R).

A few of us met in the morning to take the short hike to the waterfall. We first encountered a blooming pochote tree or spiny cedar (Bombacopsis quinatum) with its bat‐pollinated white shaving brush flowers and pale greyish‐ brown trunk and main branches covered with hefty, hard conical spines. They can grow quite tall, often with a buttressed base and a rather wide spreading crown. The degree of spininess is extremely variable; some trees are completely spineless. The spines can be especially dense on the saplings. Jim, Maureen and Carol walk through the dry tropical forest.

Spiny cedar (Bombacopsis quinatum) tree (L), flower (LC), tree trunk (RC) and spines (R).

We saw some of the escaped ornamental wild hops from Malaysia, Flemingia strobilifera, with their interesting dried, brown flower bracts and just a few leaves. Further on there was a tall tree (something in the Bignonaceae, but we couldn’t identify it) with chestnut and yellow flowers high up on the leafless branches and fallen on the ground where we could examine them more closely. Gustavo pointed out a Scheelea rostrata palm that has edible, sweet‐sour fruits and long fronds that are often used for thatching.

Brown bracts of Flemingia strobilifera (L), unknown tree flower (LC), palm Scheelea rostrata (RC) and its fruits (R).

We saw several leafless plants of Genipa americana, a small tree with smooth light grey trunk and branches and lots of egg‐shaped fruits on the ends. These thick‐skinned are edible, and can be made into drinks, jelly or for ice cream. The juice of the immature fruit is clear, but induces a chemical reaction on the human skin resulting in a tattoo‐like dark blue, and was used by some indigenous peoples for that purpose. In one more open area there were several stumps where non‐native teak trees had been harvested recently. We walked under a very tall rain tree, Albizia saman, so named because when large numbers of cicadas congregate in the foliage, they can excrete enough honeydew to fall like rain, even in the dry season.

Leafless Genipa americana tree with fruits (L), cut teak stump (C), looking up a large rain tree, Albizia saman (R).

Soon we got to the little stream that forms a waterfall over the rocks into the ocean below – a mere trickle right now – but instead of going down there, we first went up a short, steep path to a wooden table set on the cliff overlooking the wide beach below. There was a dramatic view of the blue ocean and small surf surging onto the black rocks and golden brown sand beach. Hanging over the cliffs were several old plumeria or frangipani trees (Plumeria rubra) with a few pelicans sitting on the branches.

Coastline (L), pelicans in plumeria tree (C), brown pelican (R).

The trees only had a few leaves and a couple of clusters of white flowers, but a lot of seed pods hanging down, a few opened to expose the ranks of flat seeds arranged like shingles on a roof inside the pods.

Old plumeria trunks sticking out over cliff above the ocean (L), plumeria flowers (LC), plumeria fruits (RC), and seeds in opened fruit (R).

Nearby, also on the rocks jutting over the water, was a nice specimen of Pseudobombax septimnatum, a relatively small tree with a single smooth trunk with a somewhat thickened base. This one had a couple of small white bottle‐brush like flowers still open and a number of long, egg‐shaped seed pods, but almost no leaves. On the ground near the trail here were a few plants of the large terrestrial bromeliad Bromelia pinguin, with ferocious red hooked spines along the margins of the long, light green leaves and a few orchid plants up in the branches of one tree.

Terrestrial bromeliad Bromelia pinguin plant (L), spiny leaf margin (LC), red hooked spine (RC), orchid with seed pod in tree (R).

We sat up there enjoying the view and the cooling breeze, watching pelicans, terns, and gulls soaring and diving into the water to catch fish for a long while. Then we went down to check out the little stream, green water surrounded by lush vegetation, and a few small fish and tadpoles visible in the shallow water.

Stream (L) with tadpoles in the shallow water (C) and reflections of the vegetation (R).

We were starting to get overheated by then (it was in the low 90’s by then), so began the trek back to the resort. We stopped to look at the termite nests and covered trails on tree trunks, breaking open one of the brown tunnels made of chewed up wood and termite excrement to view the small insects scurrying along their trail. Along the way there was a grey‐green caput‐medusa in a calabash tree and we spotted a zone‐tailed hawk perched high up in a tree.

Termite trails go up a tall tree (L), black termite nest in small tree (LC), termites exposed in their covered trail (RC); bromeliad Tillandsia caput‐medusa in a calabash tree (R).

Feb 28 – A Garden of Exotics This morning we returned on the ferry and drove back to the Central Valley. By noon we had arrived at Jardín Botáníco Else Kientzler in the town of Sarchi. After eating a catered lunch out on the verandah of the reception building, our guide Mauricio told us the history of the gardens. It was created about 10 years ago by the German company InnovaPlant from a former coffee plantation in memory of the company owner’s mother. The 7 acres have been landscaped and planted with tropical ornamental landscape plants from around the world, and is the fifth largest botanical garden in Costa Rica. InnovaPlant produces primarily unrooted cuttings of ornamentals for export to the US.

Mauricio tells the group about the Garden (L), overlooking the gardens from the reception area (C), the maze (R).

After answering a few questions, Mauricio took us on a tour of the garden, stopping periodically to tell us about a various plants we encountered. We walked a short way down the road lined with towering Cuban royal palms (Roystonea regia) that were about 40 feet tall after only 10 years. We learned about the native Calathea lutea that grows throughout the country, with the underside of the leaves a silvery color that helps reflect sunlight to reduce moisture loss and the rattle snake rattle‐like inflorescences.

The group heads down the road (L) under the Cuban royal palms (LC); royal palm crown and flower bud (RC); Calathea lutea (R).

Many of the other plants he talked about were interesting ornamental plants from other parts of the world, such as sago palm and ponytail palm (both of which are not true palms), the huge terrestrial bromeliad Alcantarea (= Vresia) imperialis, torch ginger, and ornamental .

Ponytail palm (L), torch ginger flower (LC), terrestrial bromeliad Alcantarea (= Vresia) imperialis (RC) and ornamental bananas (R).

Petunias, salvia, impatiens and cleome were planted in blocks around the grassy areas. There is a big of native forest down by a stream, but we didn’t go on that trail. We did see a number of Costa Rican natives, such as the big pentandra tree and guavas (Psidium guajava) with their smooth, mottled bark, the palm Chamaedorea costaricana that we had seen in the Monteverde Cloud Forest Preserve with Willow, the bright red flowers of Passiflora coccinea, and Monstera deliciosa.

Looking up the tree (L), guava (Psidium guajava) (LC), Chamaedorea costaricana (C), Passiflora coccinea (RC) and Monstera deliciosa fruit (R).

We looped around to take the forest path high on the ridge that ends at the succulent garden on the hill above the reception building. It has a smattering of succulent plants from around the world, but not many were labelled, and no one was really interested in standing around in the broiling sun to look at them.

The succulent garden (L), an agave (LC), Euphorbia stenoclada from Madagascar (RC), African aloe in bloom (R).

Many families were there having a picnic, and from their perspective this is a serene spot to enjoy the attractive landscaping with colorful flowers and lush foliage rather than a place to learn about plants.

Picnickers in the garden (L), flower of Heliconia rostrata (LC), closeup of bromeliad inflorescence (C), inflorescence of Brazilian red cloak (Megaskepasma erythrochlamys) (RC), and planting of many colors of annual salvias (R).

After that we went to Fabrica de Carretas Eloy Alfaro in Sarchi for a quick shopping opportunity. We first went into the back courtyard where Gustavo explained the evolution of the oxcart wheel and the fancy decorations on the carts.

Gustavo tells the group about how wooden oxcart wheels are made (L), historic wagon wheels (LC), historic painted wagon wheels (RC), modern decorations on wooden wheel (R).

Then we watched artists painting. One offered to let us try our hand at painting, so Susan took the brush and applied a few strokes to a piece in progress – without ruining it, although the artist did fix it up a bit afterward. Of course he has 43 years of experience, whereas Susan only has 43 seconds of experience! Then we had time to shop for colorful painted items or other souvenirs in the extensive showroom before heading back to the Hotel Bougainvillea in the big city.

Artist painting a cart (L), colorful paints (LC), souvenirs for sale (RC), Jim, Cindy and Becky relax in the chairs outside the shop (R).

Feb 29 – A Motmot Morning Hotel Bougainvillea where we are staying is famous for the blue‐crowned motmots that reside here. Normally rather secretive birds of the forest, the motmots here will come in for food. They put out papayas, bananas and other fruit on tray feeders just outside the restaurant windows to lure in these blue jay‐sized birds with long tails, as well as a variety of tanagers, clay‐colored robin (the national bird of Costa Rica) and others. One made an appearance during breakfast this morning, exciting all the guests with its presence!

Bird paparazzi (L), the fruit feeder (C), and blue crowned motmot (R).

We are heading out for a long day and will not be back until late in the evening after the farewell dinner, so the post of today’s activities will have to wait a day or two – check back later for the recap of the last day of the trip.

Feb 29 (posted March 2) – Orchids to Orchids On the last day of the tour, we started the day at Jardín Botáníco Lankester. This garden, maintained by the University of Costa Rica, is internationally known for its collections of epiphytes, including many orchids. The orchid collection includes over 15,000 accessions from nearly 1,000 species, most of which are native to Mesoamerica. We saw many orchids growing on the trees outside and inside the orchid showhouse where many large species and hybrids in bloom were artfully arranged among ferns and other tropical plants.

Gustavo and Dan flank the entrance

sign to the Lankester Botanical Garden.

The group in the orchid showhouse (L), large paphiopedilum orchid (OC), Carol smells and orchid (RC), and showy Brassias (R).

There were several plants of the guaria morada (Guarianthe skinneri), the national orchid of Costa Rica, in full bloom with their purple cattleya‐type flowers with a white throat.

Anne looks at some of the orchids (L), including guaria morada (Guarianthe skinneri) (R).

From there we wandered through the extensive collection of miniature orchids that filled the steel mesh benches in small pots and mounted on small wood or bark blocks hung on upright mesh frames all along the perimeter of the huge shadehouse.

The group in the miniature orchid greenhouse (L), flowers of Dendrobium bifalce (L), B’Anne and Cindy look at miniature orchids (RC), closeup of flowers of Arpophyllum giganteum (R).

You had to look really closely to see some of the very tiny flowers in an amazing array of bizarre shapes and interesting colors.

B’Ann smells the flower of Bulbophyllum imbricatum while Maureen waits her turn (L), Cindy photographing the brown infloresence (C), and closeup of the flowers (R).

We could have stayed there for hours looking at the immense number of unique species, but had to see the rest of the garden.

Flowers of a white Pleurothalis sp. (L), Restrepia sp. in a tiny pot (LC) and flower closeup (C), Jim photographs a tiny specimen (RC), flowers of Maxillaria tenuifolia (R).

We went back outside to walk the main trail through the Garden, stopping periodically to look at interesting plants. We went by a small pool filled with water lilies and a series of small waterfalls and backed by tall , then on through some landscaped areas to the small bit of remnant forest. We stopped in the shade to talk about some of the plants there, including orange‐blooming Stromanthe lutea, a variegated‐leaf Marantha, colorful terrestrial bromeliads, and white‐flowering Amazon lily (Eucharis grandiflora).

Dan and Jim admire the water lilies (L), closeup of water lily (LC), Stromanthe lutea (RC), Amazon lily, Eucharis grandiflora, flowers (R).

From there we left the comfortable shade for the brilliant sun of the succulent garden. Dan was our interpreter here, telling the group about the huge Pereskia tree (a type of true cactus with spines and regular leaves) with a few pink flowers, some of the African euphorbias, and the colony of Stapelia gigantea, from Africa, with its giant red‐striped yellow flowers with a slight stinky smell to attract its carrion fly . A green spiny lizard tried to mimic the leaves of the tall euphorbia it was perched in. The same plant was host to a number of bromeliads and orchids, sticking out among the spiny stems.

Spiny trunk of Pereskia sp. (L), Cindy photographs the Stapelia gigantean (LC) and its large flower (RC), a green spiny lizard in a spiny green euphorbia (R).

Other areas included exotic gingers – almost none in bloom however – or ferns or bromeliads or heliconias in bloom. As we went under the tall Heliconia longa, Gustavo pulled out one of the very long, curved flowers barely sticking out of the bracts that are pollinated by the white‐tailed sicklebill (a type of hummingbird whose beak has just the same curvature as the flowers). The red pendant inflorescences hung down many feet from the tall plants.

Shell ginger flowers, Alpinia zerumbet (L), walking under tree ferns (RC), flower of Heliconia rostrata (C), Cindy photographs Heliconia longa (RC), terrestrial bromeliads form a ground cover along a path (R).

In late afternoon we headed from Cartago to area of Tres Rios to the private home of Ms. Ileana Terán. The Terán family has owned and farmed the land for 160 years. The area has been heavily encroached upon by development and urbanization, and is now the single remaining coffee farm in the San Jose area. There are still 200 hectares of land in coffee, but the family is gradually developing the land because the land is more valuable than the coffee. Before heading up to her house, we stopped briefly on the roadside to look at the coffee plants there. The shrubs with glossy green leaves were still in bud (we’d seen plants elsewhere in full flower) and the harvest had been completed already, but we did find a couple of fruits. Susan cut them in half to show the 2 seeds, called “beans” that are processed and roasted to become the basis of the beverage we drink.

Gustavo tells the group about growing coffee (L), Cindy photographs a coffee shrub (C), coffee fruit, opened to show “beans” inside (R).

Ileana Terán has been interested in gardening and plants since she was young, and has long been an advocate for the protection of Costa Rica’s natural areas in general, and orchids in particular. She is a founder of the SACRO Foundation, an organization to protect these plants in their natural habitats. The Terán home overlooks the city and is beautifully landscaped, with a magnificent orchid collection throughout the grounds as well as in special shade houses and greenhouses.

Purple bougainvillea and orange flame vine frame the view from the front terrace of the Terán home (L), a huge Alcanterea (= Vriesea) imperialis in front of the pool (LC), a slope covered with terrestrial bromeliads and ferns (C), a blooming begonia (RC), Miltoniopsis orchid flowers (R).

She hosts groups such as ours to discuss her conservation efforts and to help raise funds for their projects. Ileana graciously led us on a tour of her lovely gardens,

Ileana leads the group through the garden (L), tells Maureen and Carol about some of the miniature orchids (RC), Masdevallia orchid flowers (C), the group in the garden (RC), colorful orchid flowers (R).

In the large orchid greenhouse (L), Carol photographs Maureen under the hanging flowers of Thunbergia mysorensis (LC), Dan photographs an oncidium orchid (RC), Ileana telling the group about some of the plants in the garden (R).

showed us a video produced by the SACRO Foundation (watch it yourself on YouTube ‐ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=‐tGhhxIW6Y0) then served us homemade tamale appetizers and sangria, before we sat down to our farewell dinner, for a wonderful end to a wonderful tour.

Watching the video in Ileana’s living room (L), the group at dinner (C), a group picture with Ileana (R).