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Tahiti French Polynesia 9 The Australs & the Gambier Archipelago Why Go? The Australs ..................204 Isolated and straddling the Tropic of Capricorn, the mag- Rurutu ...........................205 nifi cent and pristine Austral Islands are arguably French Tubuai ...........................207 Polynesia’s most underrated destination. The climate here is Raivavae ........................208 temperate, but everything else befi tting of a tropical paradise is here: fl ower-fi lled jungles, sharp peaks, outrageously blue Rimatara .......................209 water and genuinely friendly people. The islands are won- The Gambier derfully varied, from the limestone caverns of Rurutu and Archipelago ................... 210 the Bora Bora–like lagoon of Raivavae to the fertile slopes Mangareva .................... 210 and windy bays of Tubuai – heaven on earth for ecotourists. If, after visiting the Australs, you still feel the urge for more off -the-beaten-track adventures, consider travelling to Best Places to the Gambier, where visitors are an absolute rarity. All the Stay makings of an island holiday paradise can be found in this jaw-droppingly beautiful archipelago, but it’s so far away » Manôtel (p 206 ) (about 1700km southeast from Tahiti) and expensive to get » Rurutu Lodge (p 206 ) to that it remains one of the best-kept secrets in French » Raivavae Tama (p 209 ) Polynesia. » Maro’i (p 211 ) W hen to Go Best Outdoor During the dry season (May to October), the climate is Experiences milder than in other parts of the country. With average daily » Walking (p 206 ) temperatures around 20°C, July and August are not the best time to visit if you’re hoping to laze around on a beach, but » Lagoon touring (p 209 ) are an ideal time for hiking. The islands are hottest in Janu- » Exploring caves (p 205 ) ary and February. The Australs have two important religious » Whale-watching (p 206 ) festivals: the Tere, which is held in early January, and the » Horse riding (p 206 ) Me, which is celebrated in May. The whale-watching season runs from July to October. 204 THE AUSTRALS 19th and 20th centuries. This long period, during which English missionaries (or more The islands here have had less of a history frequently their native representatives) held with Europeans and less infl ux from the sway, has ensured that Protestantism re- outside world, so have kept their culture and mains strong to this day. delicious local-style cuisine alive. Pandanus weaving is still a mainstay and these crafted 8 Getting There & Away items are greatly sought after by islanders in Rurutu, Tubuai, Raivavae and Rimatara are other archipelagos. The climate means that about 600km south of Tahiti. peaches and carrots grow alongside banana AIR Air Tahiti (www.airtahiti.pf) fl ies to Rurutu trees and vast taro plantations. and Tubuai four days a week and to Raivavae and Rimatara three days a week. One-way fares History include Tahiti–Rurutu (22,500 CFP), Tahiti– The Australs were the last of the Polynesian Tubuai (25,000 CFP), Tahiti–Raivavae or islands to be settled; the fi rst arrivals were Tahiti–Rimatara (27,000 CFP). believed to have come from Tahiti between Within the archipelago, interisland fl ights cost AD 1000 and AD 1300. The islands came to between 10,000 CFP and 18,000 CFP. You can European attention during the second half also add an ‘Australs Extension’, which includes of the 18th century. Raivavae, Rurutu and Tubuai to some Air Tahiti Apart from a colourful chapter in the air passes Bounty saga, when the mutineers unsuc- (see p 249 ). cessfully tried to establish themselves on BOAT The cargo ship Tuhaa Pae IV arrives THE AUSTRALS & THE GAMBIER ARCHIPELAGO Tubuai, contact with Europeans and the three times monthly in the Australs; see p 251 Western world was limited until the late for details. Maria Island 0 400 km See Rurutu 0 250 miles Map (p205) T h e A Rurutu u s t Rimatara r a Ana Aeo l s Tubuai Tropic of Capricorn The Gambier Archipelago Motu Piscine See Raivavae ὄὄὄ Map (p208) Totegegie Cathédrale Mangareva Saint-Michel Mt Duff (441m) Rikitea Aukena To Gambier Archipelago Taravai Mt Mokoto S O U T H P A C I F I C Aukena (1000km; ὄὄὄὄὄ(425m) ὄ O C E A N see inset) Akamaru THE AUSTRALS THE Kamaka Marotiri 0 20 km Rapa Iti (Bass ὄὄ0 12 milesὄ (Rapa) Rocks) The Australs & The Gambier Highlights 1 Swimming with 3 Motu-hopping in the 5 Taking a lagoon and awe- inspiring humpback radiant Raivavae lagoon and island tour to Taravai whales at Rurutu picnicking on idyllic Motu and Aukena (p 210 ) in the (p 206 ) Piscine (p 209 ) Gambier archipelago 2 Exploring the surreal 4 Imagining the glorious 6 Marvelling at the limestone cave of Ana Aeo past of Tubuai (p 207 ) while imposing Cathédrale (p 205 ) on Rurutu visiting its unique marae Saint-Michel (p 211 ) of (traditional temple) Rikitea.
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