<<

Festivals of India 2015 - 2016 Distant Frontiers Tower B, Delta Square, T +91-124-470 3300 www.distantfrontiers.in MG Road, Sector 25 F +91-124-456 3100 Gurgaon - 122001, , India [email protected] KNOWLEDGE IS EXPERIENCE EVERYTHING ELSE IS JUST INFORMATION

THIS ISSUE's COVER

Sindoor Khela - A 400-year old playful tradition on the last day of Durga Puja, the Festival of the Mother Goddess which is best experienced in Kolkata. Photo: Aveek Das (Team Human Resource) 4 MAP INDIA & CONTENTS INTRODUCTION 5

Amritsar 1 Namkhan, Spiti, Himachal Pradesh August, 2015 >> pages 619

2 Pulikali Tiger Dance, Thrissur, Kerala August, 2015 >> pages 2029

3 Ganesh Chaturthi, Mumbai, Tarnetar and Rav September 2015 Gujrat >> pages 3037 Dear Travel Partners, 4 RIFF, Jodhpur, We bring to you a selection of festivals in India experienced rst-hand by us. October 2015 From small local community celebrations to festival which are centuries old >> pages 3845 that haven't yet aracted the hordes of tourists and retain their original essence. Our insiders will tell you how to plan your itinerary as well as provide tips on 5 Bateshwar Fair, Bateshwar November 2015 what not to miss while you are there. >> pages 4663 Come Explore with us

6 Bhagoriya, March 2016 >> pages 6473

7 Hola Mohalla, Anandpur Sahib, Punjab Dipak Deva March 2016 CEO Destination Management >> pages 7481 India & South Asia Kerela

Mountain National Park 6 DEMUL, SPITI, HIMACHAL PRADESH, INDIA AUGUST 2015 7

Namkhan Sample Itinerary

HIGHLIGHTS

Elaborate ceremony to appease the village deity aer which the villagers ride on horseback to an auspicious spot believed by the locals to 6 August (Thursday) Arrive Delhi. Overnight Stay at the house all the 5 monasteries of Spiti in a world which can be seen only by enlightened beings. Claridges Visit to the auspicious place on Yaks a day before Namkhan. It has an amazing 360 view of the mountain ranges. Folk Dance by the girls of Demul. Remainder of your time at leisure. An insight into the Green initiatives of Demul their agricultural practices along with the intricate system of irrigation which ensures minimal wastage of water. A seamless blend of old world charm and the contemporary, your hotel is one of Meeting with the Nono (title for the King of Spiti), who prefers to be known as a progressive farmer. New Delhi's best addresses since the 1950's.

Website: hp://www.claridges.com The Namkhan festival at the highland village of Demul at an altitude of 4350 meters in the cold desert of Spiti is wrapped around the agricultural practices of the village. The main objective of this small community festival is to appease and 7 August (Friday) Delhi-Kalka-Kandaghat-Shimla. Overnight pray to the Gods for a good harvest. Namkhan provides an interesting insight into the relationship and signicance of the village deity in the day to day life of the stay at the Clarkes Shimla village. Demul also happens to be the village where our Friends in Spiti has launched their O the Grid project. From lighting to water heating to room We start early today and catch the morning train to Kalka departing at 07:40 hrs. heating using Solar energy and cultivation of vegetables using Greenhouses, We arrive Kalka at 11:45 hrs to board the toy train to Kandaghat at 12:10 hrs. A Demul is being developed as a sustainable village. friend of Distant Frontiers will be on board to share the stories and legends surrounding the construction and the initial years of its running which is another Destination Demul, Spiti, Himachal Pradesh tale of its own. Festival Date 15th August, 2015 The train ride from Kalka popularly known as the 'toy train' takes us from the Travel Duration 15 nights / 16 Days foothills to the middle Himalayas through some beautiful scenery and a total of Group Size Ideal for FITs and small groups of 6 - 8 pax 102 tunnels. This train ride also features in the list of UNESCO heritage sites and was completed in the year 1903. Included in the Tour • An English speaking escort throughout • Meals, transportation, accommodation, all sightseeing as per We reach Kandaghat aer a 60 minute ride through many quaint stations each itinerary with a story of its own which our friend will happily share with you as you chug Excluded from the Tour Expenses of personal nature Programme subject to change. 8 DEMUL, SPITI, HIMACHAL PRADESH, INDIA AUGUST 2015 9

slowly up. From Kandaghat we continue the rest of the journey (2 hrs) by surface. 9 August (Sunday) Sarahan to Kalpa by surface 6 hrs aprrox. On arrival we check-in to our hotel. Remainder of your time at leisure. Overnight stay at Kinner Villa

Your charming hotel is one of Shimla's oldest and takes you back in time when Today we visit the Bhimakali Temple in the morning and head to Kalpa. Shimla was the summer capital of colonial India. It is located within a walking distance from the Shimla aractions such as the Viceregal Lodge, Gaiety Theatre Today's journey oers some of the most dramatic scenery of the Himalayas. Here etc. the Kinner Kailash range rises majestically from the river bed up through orchard forest and glinting glaciers to rocky pinnacles and snow-capped peaks. Website: hp://www.clarkesshimla.com

We carry packed lunch with us.

8 August (Saturday) Shimla-Sarahan by surface - 6 hrs approx . On arrival we check-in to our hotel. Remainder of your time at leisure. Overnight stay at Hotel Srikhand Your hotel is the best available option in town and on a clear day you can enjoy the Today morning, we procure our inner line permits which will allow us to continue views of the Kinner Kailash range from hotel. our journey to Spiti along a route which is very close to the international border with China. Website: hp://www.kinnervilla.com

Later we zig-zag our way through Himachal Pradesh's apple growing belt down to the Sutlej Valley below and continue to Sarahan famous for the Bhimakali Temple 10 August (Monday) Kalpa to Nako by surface 4 hrs aprrox. and its unique architecture; a curious mix of Hindu and Buddhist elements. Overnight stay at Kinner Camp

We carry packed lunch with us. Today's journey is a transition in landscapes, beliefs and life styles.

On arrival we check-in to our hotel. Remainder of your time at leisure. The journey moves into high altitude territory as we enter Khab, the conuence of the Sutlej and Spiti rivers. Tibet is a stone's throw from this point and the Shipki Your hotel, just opposite the Bhimakali Temple, is the best available option in ranges rise majestically on the eastern side. From here on it is the Spiti River that town. On a clear day you can enjoy the views of the majestic mountain ranges and will be our companion through some rugged back country. the Srikhand peak from your hotel.

We will end our journey at Nako which is famous for its lake and monastery. We Website: No Website will visit both and spend the night at the Kinner Camps. Programme subject to change. 10 DEMUL, SPITI, HIMACHAL PRADESH, INDIA AUGUST 2015 11

This tented facility is the best available option in town with the Reo Purgyal Peak 12 August (Wednesday) Tabo-Dhankhar -Lhalung -Pin Valley towering over it. by surface 5 hrs approx. Overnight stay at Hermitage Guest

Website: hp://www.kinnercamps.com/nako.html House

Today morning we shall meet our Friends in Spiti for an orientation on the 11 August (Tuesday) Nako-Giu-Tabo by surface 4 hrs approx. culture, history, ecology, development and conservation issues of the region. This will be followed by a brief interactive session. Overnight stay at Dewachen Later we make our way to visit Dhankhar, the erstwhile capital of Spiti. Dhankhar Today we head to Tabo which lies in the Spiti Valley. Enroute we will take a slight houses a 7th century Monastery perched precariously on a 1000-foot-high rocky detour and visit the village of Giu. Giu is the furthest and most isolated village of spur and in between unique wind eroded structures overlooking the conuence Spiti, lying close to the border of Tibet. of the Spiti and Pin Rivers.

Here we will visit the village shrine which houses a 600-year-old mummy of a Lunch at the Dhankar Monastery Guesthouse. Buddhist monk. Aer lunch we head to Lhalung Village. Lhalung houses one of the oldest temples On arrival we check-in to our hotel and have lunch. and perhaps the oldest tree in the region, said to be over a 1000 year old. Aer visiting the temple we then make our way to the other main tributary of the Spiti Later in the aernoon, we visit 1018 year old Tabo Monastery referred to as 'the river, the Pin. The route is quite interesting and is full of geological formations. Ajanta of the Himalayas with its exquisite statues in stuccos, frescos and murals. Every inch of wall is covered with ne paintings in astonishingly well preserved We spend the night in the village of Phukchong, a truly unique village, completely condition dedicated to meditation. This is the village where nuns and monks come for 3 yearlong retreats. Website: hp://www.dewachenretreats.com/hotel_dewachen_retreat_tabo.php Website: No website

Programme subject to change. 12 DEMUL, SPITI, HIMACHAL PRADESH, INDIA AUGUST 2015 13

13 August (Thursday) Pin Valley locals and this is where all the horses will be heading to next day during the Namkhan Festival. Today's highlight is meeting a Bhuchen group and seeing their unique art form. The Bhuchens are a unique and rare sect of Tibetan Buddhist theatrical artists that Aer spending a short while here and soaking in the views we head on to Demul preach religious, social and ecological morals to the locals through a set of diverse village on our vehicles. performances. Lunch at the home of the Amchi (traditional healer). This art form ourished in Tibet, Ladakh and Spiti for many centuries, but gradually died a slow death in all the regions except the Pin valley in Spiti, which Later we take a walk around the village for insight into the Green initiatives of is the only place where the Bhuchens are now found. Demul and their agricultural practices along with the intricate system of irrigation which ensures minimal wastage of water. Later we head back to Phukchong and take a short hike to the last village in the Pin in valley called Ka which oers nice views of the Pin Valley National Park; the Website: No website abode of the elusive snow leopard.

Website: No website 15 August (Saturday) Demul

Today we witness the Namkhan Festival 14 August (Friday) Pin Valley to Demul by surface- 3 hrs drive approx + 2 hrs Yak Safari and hiking. Overnight Stay in a Tented Namkhan provides an interesting insight into the relationship and signicance of the village deity in the day to day life of the village. facility In the evening we witness a folk art performance. The Hereps (traditional Today we head to the highland village of Demul which at an altitude of 4350 mts musicians) along with the other village community do a joint performance for us. is one of the highest and remotest villages in the region. Website: No website We arrive Demul a day before the Namkhan Festival.

Before reaching the village we shall get o our vehicles and prepare ourselves for a unique local mode of transport, Yaks. We head on astride these sturdy high altitude animals to an amazing vantage point that oers some of the most stunning views of the Spiti valley. This place is considered very auspicious by the Programme subject to change. 14 DEMUL, SPITI, HIMACHAL PRADESH, INDIA AUGUST 2015 15

16 August (Sunday) Demul Rangrik 2 hrs aprrox . Hotel From here we head onto visit the famous Kee Monastery which is the largest Grand Dewachen monastery in Spiti.

For lunch we stop at the Kachen Dugyal Memorial Old Age Home in Kee Village Today we continue to Rangrik. made for elderly residents. The contribution towards the lunch we have here indirectly helps in supporting the residents of the old age home. On arrival we check in to our hotel and sele down. Remainder of your time at leisure. We return to our hotel post lunch. Remainder of our time at leisure.

Later in the evening we visit the poery unit of our friends in Spiti for a session Website: hp://www.dewachenretreats.com/hotel_grand_dewachen_kaza.php with a local poer. We will learn some basic techniques and try our hand in making some items as well. We shall get an opportunity to use the poer's wheel and spend some time playing with clay. 18 August (Tuesday) Rangrik to Charu by surface 6 hrs. We spend sometime in the Café of our friends in Spiti before returning to our Outdoor Camping hotel. It is located in the main bazzar of Kaza. Aer breakfast we leave Kaza and journey towards the beautiful Kullu Valley. Website: hp://www.dewachenretreats.com/hotel_grand_dewachen_kaza.php However as it is a long journey we shall stop enroute and camp at a beautiful spot called Charu in the Chandra Valley.

17 August (Monday) Rangrik Quiling Kee Rangrik We will cross a high pass today called Kunzum La which is at height of 4551 metres. The landscape is spectacular and will keep one mesmerized. Spiti is primarily an agro-pastoralist community and agriculture forms the mainstay of the economy. Today we try and get some deeper insights into this Website: No website aspect of life in this valley.

We head to Quiling where we meet the Nono (title for the King of Spiti), who prefers to be known as a progressive farmer trying to experiment on cultivating a diversity of crops with new innovations.

We shall visit his farm and see all the various experiments that he has undertaken to diversify the agricultural practices in the region.

Programme subject to change. 16 DEMUL, SPITI, HIMACHAL PRADESH, INDIA AUGUST 2015 17

19 August (Wednesday) Charu Raison by surface 6 hrs. 21 August (Friday) Raison to Chandigarh by surface -6 Overnight stay at Neeralaya hrs/Chandigarh Delhi by train

Today we continue our journey to the Kullu Valley crossing the Rohtang Pass Today we head to Chandigarh on time for your evening train back to Delhi. which oers a sudden transition in landscape and vegetation. We cross the touristy Manali and continue to the village of Raison where we spend the day The Kalka Shatabdi departs Chandigarh at 18:23 hrs and arrives Delhi at 21:55 hrs relaxing and unwinding at our hotel right next to the River Beas. On arrival we drive to the Terminal 3 of the International airport to check-in at Neeralaya which means 'an abode by the water' is located in Raison, a small village the Eaton Smart Hotel (Inside Terminal 3). along the banks of the River Beas and just 25 kms aer the crowds of touristy Manali. It is a perfect place to unwind and rejuvenate. Those needing just a pre-ight freshen up, instead of a room one can make use of Eaton Smart's innovative Aqua Pods. Eciently designed, you can use these Website: hp://www.neeralaya.com private showers and take advantage of the hotel's services and facilities.

Later board your international ight back home. 20 August (Thursday) Raison Website: hp://www.newdelhiairport.eatonhotels.com Day at leisure.

The Riverside Gazebo at Neeralaya is a really special place. Perfect for lazy meals by the Beas River. It is a place where you feel happy and cherish the simple joys of life over delicious meals.

Don't miss their Pan Seared Trout with Plum Sauce during your stay here.

Website: hp://www.neeralaya.com

Programme subject to change. 18 DEMUL, SPITI, HIMACHAL PRADESH, INDIA AUGUST 2015 19

Insider tip

On the day you drive from Charu to Raison start a bit early and take a detour to the stunning emerald green Chandra Tal (Moon Lake). The view of the crescent lake in its turquoise garb is astounding. You will be hypnotized by this nymph le alone amid the Himalayas, says Kuntil Baruwa from our Destination Knowledge Centre who led our group of volunteers to Spiti and experienced the Namkhan Festival.

Read More

Download the rst-hand account of the Namkhan Festival by our volunteers who had travelled to Spiti to build a Solar Bath for a Buddhist Nunnery there click here

Download the comprehensive pre-tour document prepared by our volunteers which will help you immensely in geing ready for the trip to Spiti click here

For a detailed itinerary and quote contact [email protected]

Follow us on FACEBOOK and TWITTER for more festival updates from India.

Programme subject to change. 20 THRISSUR, KERALA, INDIA AUGUST 2015 21

Pulikali Tiger Dance Sample Itinerary

HIGHLIGHTS

Get a ringside view of the preparations of this spectacular event of colour, sound and movement right behind your hotel. Great photo 22 August(Saturday) Arrive Bangalore Drive to Mysore - 205 opportunities. kms/ 4 hrs approx Overnight Stay at the Royal Orchid Interact with the Tigers and get to know rst-hand the painstaking eorts of the performers before they take to the streets. Metropole If you are adventurous, the painters there are happy to paint a Tiger face on your belly and you can learn a few Pulikali moves too from the performers. Check-in to your hotel built by the former Maharaja of Mysore in 1920 for his Cheer for the Tigers as they roam the streets of Thrissur, dancing to rustic drumbeats. distinguished British guests. Remainder of your time at leisure.

Later in the aernoon a friend of Distant Frontiers will meet you at your hotel to Potbellied men dance with tiger faces painted on their rotund bellies to rustic know how best you prefer to explore Mysore and oer his advice accordingly. drumbeats in this pantomime-cum-parade dance at Thrissur which marks an end to Onam, Kerala's Harvest Festival. It is held on the 4th day of Onam every year. From leisurely paced walking tours during anytime of the day to early morning The Pulikali Tiger Dance is said to be a nearly 200 year old tradition. But no one bicycling tours you will be oered quite a few interesting options. knows how it all began at Thrissur. While some locals say that Pulikali was brought to Kerala by Muslims who performed the dance during their mourning In the evening you may want to check out the Shikari, the outdoor restaurant of festival of Muharram; others say the local Maharaja wanted a new dance, your hotel. It is a great atmospheric place for a round of kebabs and drinks. something macho, as a part of the Onam celebrations with steps that mime hunting moves and tactics. Website: hp://www.royalorchidhotels.com/royal-orchid-metropole- mysore/room-type-royal.asp Destination Thrissur, Kerala

Festival Date 31st August, 2015 Travel Duration 12 nights /13 days 23 August (Sunday) Mysore

Group Size Ideal for FITs (max 4 pax) Spend your day exploring Mysore at your own pace with our friend. Included in the Tour • An English speaking escort in Thrissur well versed with the Pulikali Tiger Dance, local culture and language Website: hp://www.royalorchidhotels.com/royal-orchid-metropole- • Breakfast, transportation, accommodation, all sightseeing as mysore/room-type-royal.asp per itinerary Excluded from the Tour Expenses of personal nature Programme subject to change. 22 THRISSUR, KERALA, INDIA AUGUST 2015 23

24 August (Monday) Mysore Sulthan Bathery by surface - Heritage List to Coonor crossing many tunnels and bridges on this scenic route 150 kms / 3 hrs approx . Overnight stay at Tranquil chugging past picturesque tea estates and villages and towns many of which have retained their old world charm.

Arrive Sulthan Bathery and check in to your Tree House in a 400 acre private On arrival in Coonor we drive to La Maison, a 19th century Tea Bungalow located coee and spices plantation, nestled within the remote and lush rainforest of on the top of a hill at the Hadathorai Tea Estate away from the press and clamour Wayanad. of touristy Ooty.

Remainder of your time at leisure. Website: hp://www.lamaison.in

Website: hp://www.tranquilresort.com 27 August (Thursday) Kotagiri 25 August (Tuesday) Sultan Bathery

Spend your day at your own pace exploring in and around La Maison. Go for a leisurely stroll in the plantation. You may also want to visit the local market and take a ride in one of many Jeeps that line the market place. Website: hp://www.lamaison.in

Website: hp://www.tranquilresort.com 28 August (Friday) Kotagiri Samathur by surface - 150 kms/ 4 26 August (Wednesday) - Sulthan Bathery Ooty by surface - hrs approx. Overnight stay at Shenbaga Vilasam 125 kms/ 2 hrs-30 mins aprrox. Ooty Coonor by Toy Train Arrive Samathur village and check in to your Farm House built in the early 1900's (14:00 hrs to 15:05 hrs) Coonor Kotagiri by surface (1 hr as a private residence for the wives of the local landlord. There are four rooms approx). Overnight stay at La Maison named aer the women of the household.

Today we drive to Ooty and stop for lunch at the Taj Savoy. Shenbaga Vilaasam is located in an active farm where you can spend your time here exploring the farm at your own pace. Go for a leisurely stroll by the two lakes Website of Taj Savoy: here, pick your own tender coconut from the farm's coconut plantation close by, hp://www.tajhotels.com/leisure/savoy%20hotel,ooty/default.htm they are happy to take you on a bullock cart ride or you can visit the family temple where they will do a private blessing for you. Post lunch we board the Nilgiri Toy Train which gures in UNESCO's World Website: hp://www.shenbagavilaasam.in Programme subject to change. 24 THRISSUR, KERALA, INDIA AUGUST 2015 25

29 August (Saturday) Samathur In the good old days there used to be around 15 teams with at least 50- 60 performers in each team. The number has come down to just six, with 40 Today we recommend you go on a short drive to the quirky shrine of the Goddess performers in each team. Each team requires USD 4000 to 8000 for a smooth of Justice where locals present their case by grinding red chilies smearing the dance depending on the number of performers. A majority of the money comes paste on Stone of Justice called Neethi Kal. through donations.

Return to Shenbaga Vilaasam for lunch. They serve some of the most delicious Website: hp://www.joyshotels.com vegetarian food in entire South India.

Website: hp://www.shenbagavilaasam.in 31 August (Monday) Thrissur

We will have a relaxed start to the day and go see the Tiger's faces geing painted 30 August (Sunday) - Pollachi Thrissur by surface - 100 kms/ on the many bellies of the neighbourhood. The bigger the belly the cooler it is and 3hrs approx. Overnight Stay at Joys Palace can earn up to USD 100 today. This part is a photographer's delight.

The best part about staying in Joy Palace, our hotel in Thrissur is that we could just Today we drive to Thrissur and check-in to Joy Palace; the best available option in eet in and out to see the painting done in the morning, whenever we want. town and sele down. The best part of staying at the Joy Palace being all the Pulikali action happening right behind the hotel in the neighbourhood. Post lunch at about 15:00 hrs is time for the Tigers to hit the streets aer a quick jig to the drummers. We will follow the Tigers prancing through the neighbourhood Our escort cum guide for the Pulikali Tiger Dance will meet you today at the hotel and to the main streets of Thrissur where the action begins. We watch the action lobby. live and from close quarters as they mime hunting moves and tactics. Each Team of Dancing Tigers will have 2 Floats following them. Post lunch we will visit the local Pulikali Tiger Den right behind your hotel for a ringside view of the preparations for tomorrow. Later we visit the Guruvayur We return to our hotel aer a good one and a half hour of cheering for the Temple for a slice of the joie de vivre of Onam, Kerala's Harvest festival. neighbourhood Tigers.

Time and energy permiing we will also witness the high energy drumming We spend the evening at leisure. session in the local temple and follow the drummers as they stroll around the neighbourhood playing their drums at night. All this right behind your hotel and Website: hp://www.joyshotels.com be a part of the preparations of the Pulikali Tiger Dance.

Programme subject to change. 26 THRISSUR, KERALA, INDIA AUGUST 2015 27

1 September (Tuesday) Thrissur Marari by surface - 130 kms Return to your beach resort post lunch (1 hr drive approx). / 3 hrs aprrox Remainder of your time at leisure.

Today we continue to the Marari Beach Resort. Website: hp://www.cghearth.com/marari-beach

Remainder of our time at leisure to enjoy this wonderful beach resort inspired by Kerala's coastal culture and the lives of its simple sherman folk. 3 September (Thursday) - Cochin - onward Website: hp://www.cghearth.com/marari-beach Today board your international ight back home.

2 September (Wednesday) Marari Eranpuzha Marari

Today we head in tuk-tuks to the quaint railway station of Marari to catch a local train which will take us to Parayil Homestead.

The train leaves Marari at 10:50 hrs and it is a 45 minute ride (this train operates on all days except Mondays). Factor in a few minutes here and there as like all local trains of India this one is likely to get delayed too.

Parayil Homestead is a ne example of Kerala architecture. This imposing yet elegant home is built around a central, open air courtyard, in the signature style preferred by aristocratic families of Kerala.

Website of Parayil Homestead: hp://www.parayilhomestead.com

Spend the half day with your hosts George and Sumi from the Tharakan family, once powerful Syrian Christian landlords of the area. Join Sumi in an informal and relaxed cooking session followed by lunch.

Programme subject to change. 28 THRISSUR, KERALA, INDIA AUGUST 2015 29

Insider tip

If the Onam buet at your hotel doesn't inspire you, the Domino's Pizza outlet of Thrissur do some nice Pepperoni Pizzas. Should you want to order one during your stay at the Joy Palace just let the reception know. Domino's will deliver it to your room in 30 minutes at , says Kuntil Baruwa from our Destination Knowledge Centre who experienced the Pulikali Tiger Dance.

Read More

Download the Pulikali Tiger Dance report by Kuntil Baruwa from our Destination Knowledge Centre who experienced it rst-hand click here

For a detailed itinerary and quote contact [email protected]

Follow us on FACEBOOK and TWITTER for more festival updates from India.

Programme subject to change. 30 MUMBAI, INDIA SEPTEMBER 2015 31

Ganesh Chaturthi, Tarnetar, Ravechi Sample Itinerary

HIGHLIGHTS

Ganesh Chaturthi; the birthday of Lord Ganesha, the elephant headed Hindu God in Mumbai. 16 September (Wednesday) - Arrive Mumbai. Overnight stay at Pandals (temporary structure) in Mumbai where huge idols of Ganesha are enthroned to be immersed later. ITC Grand Central, Mumbai A colourful kaleidoscope of rural Gujarat and its indigenous communities. Shops selling local products, handicras, jewelry, household goods and numerous fairground aractions. The ITC Grand Central is a ne blend of colonial style with modern Newly wedded couples from the indigenous tribes of Gujarat in their beautiful traditional wedding dresses. contemporary design and very conveniently located to enjoy the festivities of Insight into the unique lifestyle, traditional textile and weaves of the indigenous communities of Gujarat. Ganesh Chaturthi; the birthday of Lord Ganesha, the elephant headed Hindu God. Immersion of Ganesha idols in the Arabian Sea at Mumbai. Your hotel is located at Parel which was once a buzzing centre of trade with its coon mills, and prior to that a posh colonial residential selement. The area still An amazing oppurtunity to witness 3 colourful festivals of India that haven't yet bears the old world charm of a bygone era, despite a renewed spate of aracted the hordes of the tourists in just 9 days development and now being one of Mumbai's important commercial hubs.

Website: hp://www.itchotels.in/Hotels/itcgrandcentral/overview.aspx Destination Mumbai, Tarnetar and Rav in Gujrat

Festival Date 17th September, 2015 17 September (Thursday) Mumbai Travel Duration 9 nights / 10 Days

Group Size Ideal for FITs and small groups of 6 - 8 pax Today is Day 1 of Ganesh Chaturthi. During this ten day festival, families install Included in the Tour • An accompanying English speaking Escort cum Guide idols of Ganesha in their homes while various neighbourhoods and associations • Meals, transportation, accommodation, all sightseeing as per erect pandals (fabricated structure, either temporary or permanent, in a social or itinerary and domestic flights religious ceremony) where huge idols of Ganesha are enthroned to be immersed later. Excluded from the Tour Expenses of personal nature

Today we will visit a few such Ganesha pandals (temporary structures that houses the idols of Ganesha). Be prepared to walk today whilst visiting these pandals.

Aernoon at leisure.

Programme subject to change. 32 MUMBAI, INDIA SEPTEMBER 2015 33

In the evening we will visit the home of a friend of Distant Frontiers to get an Website of Tarnetar Fair: insight into how locals celebrate Ganesh Chaturthi in their homes. hp://www.gujaraourism.com/showpage.aspx?contentid=495

Website: hp://www.itchotels.in/Hotels/itcgrandcentral/overview.aspx 19 September (Saturday) Tarnetar Bhuj by surface - 260 Kms / 07 hrs aprrox. Overnight stay at Hotel Prince 18 September (Friday)- Mumbai- Rajkot- Tarnetar. Overnight

stay at Tarnetar Festival Camp Site of Gujarat Tourism (AC Today we continue to Bhuj with its quaint alleys, old palaces, carved doors and Tents) gates, Hindu temples and bazaars.

We leave our hotel on time to board the early morning ight to Rajkot which is a Enroute we stop either at Dhamadka for an insight into Ajrak Block Printing or short haul of 65 minutes. Sandwiches and Coee/Juice on board your ight with Dhaneti to see the traditional embroidery of the Ahir community considered one our best compliments. of the nest in Gujarat.

We arrive Rajkot and proceed to the Imperial Palace for breakfast. Lunch in a local restaurant enroute.

Website of Imperial Palace: hp://www.theimperialpalace.biz On arrival we check into our hotel. Time and energy permiing we may go for a stroll in Bhuj town. Post breakfast we continue by surface to Tarnetar (90 kms/ 3 hrs approx). Prince is Bhuj's rst 3 star hotel. Now 3 decades into the business, the hotel has Today we enjoy the Tarnetar Fair which is a celebration of ethnic Gujarat's folk- been recently renovated. Visitors can also procure liquor permits and buy their dance, music, costumes and arts, centered on young tribal men and women liquor here (Monday to Saturday/11:00 hrs 19:30 hrs). seeking marriage partners. But even for those not interested in nding a spouse the romance and excitement in the air is captivating. Website: hp://www.hotelprinceonline.com

Tarnetar is a colourful kaleidoscope of rural Gujarat and its indigenous communities. Stalls selling beautiful local handicras, along with ethnic jewellery, 20 September (Sunday) Bhuj statues of deities and traditional aire with tiny mirror work are set up during the fair. There are also merry-go-round rides, photographer's stalls, magic shows and Today we spend the day in dierent villages and with dierent communities of taoo artists. Photograpghers' delight. the Banni area, a low-lying, sixteen hundred square kilometers pastureland close

Programme subject to change. 34 MUMBAI, INDIA SEPTEMBER 2015 35

to the salt marshes of the Great Rann of Kutch for an insight into their unique On arrival we check-into the JW Marriot on the Juhu Beach, overlooking the lifestyle, beautiful handicras and traditional embroidery. scenic waters of the Arabian Sea. Your hotel is located only 20 minutes from the Packed Lunch from Hotel Prince. International Airport.

Website: hp://www.hotelprinceonline.com/ Remainder of your time at leisure.

Juhu Beach is a popular place for immersion of the Ganesha idols which marks 21 September (Monday) - Bhuj Rav by surface - 120 Kms / 04 the end of the Ganesh Chaturthi Festival. Tomorrow we will spend a leisurely day watching locals immerse the idols of Ganesha in the Arabian Sea. hrs approx. Overnight stay in Tented Camps (Non AC)

Website: hp://www.marrio.com/hotels/travel/bomjw-jw-marrio-hotel-mumbai Today we continue to the village of Rav to be a part of the Ravechi Fair where members of the indigenous tribes of the area come to pray to the Mother Goddess, meet their friends and dance to the rhythm of music. 23 September (Wednesday) - Mumbai The centre of araction is the Ravechi Temple of the Mother Goddess where people come to pray including the newly wedded couples in their beautiful Day spent at your own pace at the Juhu Beach with your guide watching locals traditional wedding dresses. Numerous multi-colored stalls are set up which sells immersing Ganesha idols in the Arabian Sea shouting Ganpati Bappa Moriya, the local handicras, homemade clothes, handmade fabrics, mirror works, Pudcha varshi loukar ya (Hail Lord Ganesha, come soon again next year). embroidery and lace works and other ne specimens of local hand-works of the womenfolk of Gujarat. You will also witness traditional dances and drama staged Hindus believe that the universe is in a constant state of ux. However, what by the locals. remains constant is the energy. The immersion of the Ganesha statues in the ocean, river or other water bodies, is symbolic of this belief. We will also see the 'Gaushala' of the Temple which houses close to 3000 cows and takes care of them. Website: hp://www.marrio.com/hotels/travel/bomjw-jw-marrio-hotel-mumbai

22 September (Tuesday) Rav Bhuj Mumbai. Overnight stay 24 September (Thursday) - Mumbai- onwards at JW Marriot. We catch our international ight back home.

In the morning we return to the Ravechi fair grounds. Later we drive to Bhuj on time for our evening ight to Mumbai. Programme subject to change. 36 MUMBAI, INDIA SEPTEMBER 2015 37

Insider tip

Keep a watch out for the colour large umbrellas with intricate embroidery and mirror work which is synonymous with the Tarnetar Fair. The bachelors who visit the Tarnetar Mela to nd them suitable brides elegantly dressed in colourful dhotis; embroidered jackets and eye-catching turbans are identied by these umbrellas embroidered by them for over a year. A time-honored ritual that is still practised ,says Sunil Kumar from Tour Operations. Sunil Kumar has been escorting guests to the Ganesh Chaturthi, Tarnetar and Ravechi Fair.

For a detailed itinerary and quote contact [email protected]

Follow us on FACEBOOK and TWITTER for more festival updates from India.

Programme subject to change. 38 JODHPUR, INDIA OCTOBER 2015 39

Rajasthan International Folk Festival (RIFF) Jodhpur Sample Itinerary

HIGHLIGHTS

Three full days of the best fusion music from around the world. 17 October (Saturday) - Arrive Delhi. Overnight stay at VIP access to the Mehrangarh Fort at night (voted "Asia's Best Fortress" by Time Magazine). Shangri-La, New Delhi Meeting and interaction with various artists from local Rajasthani community. Aer parties at exotic locations and dawn concerts at Jaswant Thada. The Shangri-La is located at a walking distance from Connaught Place, one of the most liked and lively shopping centres of New Delhi and near to many historic sites as well. One of the highlights of your hotel is its ne dining restaurants This annual festival celebrates the regional music and art in existence. It is open serving Indian, Mediterranean, Asian and Italian specialties. to all artists and folk musicians from India and abroad. About 150 artists from Rajasthan and beyond gather for 3 nights at the magnicent Mehrangarh Fort. Website: hp://www.shangri-la.com/newdelhi/erosshangrila Once the sun goes down, divine music lls every part of Mehrangarh, captivating the audience. The festival coincides with the brightest full moon of the year in northern India, the Sharad Purnima. Interactive sessions with the artists are held 18 October (Sunday) - Delhi during the day for visitors and students within the walls of the fortress.

Today morning discover the charms of Old Delhi with a friend of Distant Destination Jodhpur, Rajasthan Frontiers. This walking tour of Old Delhi acquaints you with the food, the culture Festival Dates 23rd - 27th October 2015 and the rich heritage of the Old city. The narrow winding lanes will surprise you with its vibrancy, heritage buildings, places of worship and mouth-watering Travel Duration 12 nights / 13 days cuisine. Our adventure nally ends with lunch at the ancestral home of our Group Size Ideal for FITs and small groups of 6 - 8 pax friend.

Included in the Tour • An accompanying English speaking Escort cum Guide Aernoon at leisure to enjoy the facilities of your hotel. • Breakfast, transportation, accommodation, all sightseeing as per itinerary, tickets to the RIFF Festival, internal flight between Udaipur-Delhi Overnight stay at Shangri-La, New Delhi.

Excluded from the Tour Expenses of personal nature Website: hp://www.shangri-la.com/newdelhi/erosshangrila

Programme subject to change. 40 JODHPUR, INDIA OCTOBER 2015 41

19 October (Monday) Delhi - Agra by surface - 204 Kms / 4 hrs 21 October (Wednesday) - Jaipur approx Spend your day today exploring the main sites of Jaipur city with your guide Arrive Agra. Overnight Stay at the Trident. including the Amber Fort.

Your hotel is literally a stone's throw away from the magnicent Taj Mahal. Set Overnight Stay at the Trident. amidst beautiful gardens, fountains, landscaped central courtyards, Trident is built of red stone reminiscent of the Mughal era. Website: hp://www.tridenthotels.com/jaipur/hotel.asp

Visit the Taj Mahal and the Agra Fort with your Guide. 22 October (Thursday) Jaipur- Jodhpur by surface - 320 Kms / Website: hp://www.tridenthotels.com/agra/hotel.asp 6 ½ hrs approx

Arrive Jodhpur. Overnight stay at the Raas in the Old City. 20 October (Tuesday) - Agra- Jaipur by surface 237 Kms / 5 hrs. approx. Raas Jodhpur is located right at the foot of the majestic Mehrangarh Fort, the venue of the RIFF festival. Almost every room in the hotel enjoys spectacular Arrive Jaipur. Overnight Stay at the Trident. views of the fort.

Situated en route to Jaipur's famous Amber Fort, the Trident, Jaipur oers In the evening take a leisurely walk around the old city with your guide time and gracefully furnished rooms that are well-equipped. From here you can also see energy permiing. breathtaking views of the serene Mansagar Lake and the striking Aravalli range. Website: hp://www.raasjodhpur.com

Visit Fatehpur Sikri; an UNESCO World Heritage Site enroute Agra- Jaipur. 23 October (Friday) Jodhpur Website: hp://www.tridenthotels.com/jaipur/hotel.asp Enjoy the RIFF Festival Overnight stay at the Raas in the Old City.

Website: hp://www.raasjodhpur.com Programme subject to change. 42 JODHPUR, INDIA OCTOBER 2015 43

24 October (Saturday) - Jodhpur rooms furnished in shades of beige and light cream and the architecture reecting the ancient heritage of Udaipur.

Enjoy the RIFF Festival. Visit the Ranakpur Jain Temples enroute. Overnight stay at the Raas in the Old City.

Website: hp://www.tridenthotels.com/udaipur/hotel.asp Website: hp://www.raasjodhpur.com

28 October (Wednesday) - Udaipur 25 October (Sunday) - Jodhpur

Today morning go on a cycling tour to discover the hidden quarters of this Enjoy RIFF Festival. romantic city. During the tour meet various artist and crasman. Learn about the Overnight stay at the Raas in the Old City. local custom and religious beliefs.

Website: hp://www.raasjodhpur.com Overnight stay at the Trident.

Website: hp://www.tridenthotels.com/udaipur/hotel.asp 26 October (Monday) - Jodhpur

Enjoy RIFF Festival. 29 October (Thursday) Udaipur Delhi- onwards Overnight stay at the Raas in the Old City. Morning at leisure. Website: hp://www.raasjodhpur.com Fly to Delhi in the aernoon. Check into Eaton Smart Airport Hotel (inside Terminal 3) to relax before your international ight back home. 27 October (Tuesday) - Jodhpur - Udaipur by surface - 245 Kms / 5 hrs. approx. Website: hp://www.newdelhiairport.eatonhotels.com

Arrive Udaipur. Overnight stay at the Trident.

Trident, Udaipur is located on the banks of the picturesque Pichola Lake with

Programme subject to change. 44 JODHPUR, INDIA OCTOBER 2015 45

Insider tip

The Main Stage performances which is followed by the midnight aer parties should not be missed says Soumya Mukherji from the Destination Knowledge Centre who experienced the RIFF festival rst-hand. On the last day of the festival, there is a special performance - a chosen rustler performs with all the musicians of the RIFF festival bringing to an end the three exhilarating days of rhythms from around the world. It is an impromptu jamming session not to be missed. On one of the days rise early and take a gentle stroll up to the Mehrangarh Fort from your hotel enjoying the pleasant morning air in time for the dawn concert which takes place at the Jaswant Thada. The dawn concert is an ethereal experience. You have relaxed seating on the ground with a bolster for backrest. To your le lies the Old city of Jodhpur waking up gently under the so morning light and to your right lies the majestic Mehrangarh Fort, adds Soumya.

Read More

Download the RIFF report by Soumya Mukherji from our Destination Knowledge Centre who experienced it rsthand click here

For a detailed itinerary and quote contact [email protected]

Follow us on FACEBOOK and TWITTER for more festival updates from India.

Programme subject to change. 46 BATESHWAR, MADHYA PRADESH, INDIA OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2015 47

Bateshwar Fair Sample Itinerary

HIGHLIGHTS Departure 1 The second largest animal fair in the country, and the largest gathering of horses in the country (8th - 16th November, 2015). Animal Fair Dates : 2nd November - 13th November, 2015 A colourful kaleidoscope of rural Indian life as it has existed since time immemorial. An opportunity to mingle with traders and pilgrims. The Animal Fair at Bateshwar is the highlight. This is the second largest animal Participate along with the locals in religious ceremonies on the banks of the river or in the sanctum sanctorum of the main temple at Bateshwar. fair in the country, and the largest gathering of horses in the country. The rst o Shops selling local products, handicras, saddles and harnesses, household goods and numerous fairground aractions. the block are the Bullocks, Bualoes and Cows, followed by the Horses and Camels Diwali, the Festival of Lights (11th November 2015) - Departure 1 and ending with the Donkeys. Elephants were exhibited and traded here in the Full Moon visit of the Taj Mahal (24th 26th Nov, 2015) - Departure 2 past but not anymore.

2 November (Monday) - Arrive Delhi The ancient temple complex at Bateshwar consists of more than a hundred Overnight stay at The Claridges, New Delhi temples built along the banks of the River Yamuna, dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva. Bateshwar has long been celebrated for its annual fair, which is believed to The Claridges, New Delhi one of the best addresses in Lutyens' Delhi and is have commenced over 2000 years ago. Although the origins of this historic fair preferably located to explore the sights and the sounds of the city. are religious, it is also of great commercial importance and is renowned as the 2nd largest animal fair in the country (Sonepur in Bihar being the largest). The Website: hp://www.claridges.com fair begins with cale trading, followed by the trading of camels, horses and nally donkeys. The fair is a very real and authentic glimpse of rural India. 3 November (Tuesday) Delhi Destination Bateshwar, Madhya Pradesh

8th - 16th November, 2015 (Animal Fair) / Aer a leisurely breakfast discover the charms of Old Delhi with a friend of Festival Dates 23rd - 29th November, 2015 (Religious Fair) Distant Frontiers. This walking tour of Old Delhi acquaints you with the food, the Travel Duration 12 nights /13 days culture and the rich heritage of the Old city. The narrow winding lanes will surprise you with its vibrancy, heritage buildings, places of worship and mouth- Group Size Ideal for FITs and small groups of 6 - 8 pax watering cuisine. Our adventure nally ends with lunch at the ancestral home of Included in the Tour • An accompanying English speaking Escort cum Guide our friend. • Breakfast, transportation, accommodation, all sightseeing as per itinerary Aernoon at leisure to enjoy the facilities of your hotel. Website: hp://www.claridges.com Excluded from the Tour Expenses of personal nature Programme subject to change. 48 BATESHWAR, MADHYA PRADESH, INDIA OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2015 49

4 November (Wednesday) Delhi Patan by surface - 180 Kms/ Balladeers are from the Nayak community who are Muslims and consider 4 hrs approx. themselves as Muslim Rajputs.

Tonight you will also sample a couple of varieties of Aasa, a traditional homemade Arrive Patan. Overnight stay at Patan Mahal. liqueur of the Shekhawati region brewed from local fruits and herbs.

Remainder of your time at leisure. Dinner will be authentic Rajasthani and the recipes straight from the cook book of the Mandawa family. Nestled in a valley formed by 3 hills, Patan Mahal rises in the distance at the end of the city. The palace is well-located with an unhindered birds-eye view of the Website: hp://www.mandawahotels.com/castlemandawa 13th century ancestral fort and palace called Badal Mahal which stands loily at an imposing height.

Website: hp://www.patanmahal.com 6 November (Friday) Mandawa

Today we take a short drive (40 minutes) to visit the beautiful town of Ramgarh 5 November (Thursday) Patan Mandawa by surface - 125 which has some of the most beautiful fresco wall paintings whose vibrant colors and exquisite details cover almost every square inch of available wall space. kms/ 3.5 hrs approx Aer enjoying a lovely walk in the town with its many Havelis we drop in at Arrive Mandawa. Overnight at Mandawa Castle. Ramgarh Fresco for lunch.

Castle Mandawa is a curious mixture of the old and the new. Medieval turreted Website of Ramgarh Fresco : hp://www.ramgarhfresco.com towers, palanquin-roofed balconies blend with modern comforts in old-world rooms. Aernoon at leisure to enjoy the facilities of your hotel.

In the evening experience the unique 'Pabuji Ki Phad' where art and music meets Website: hp://www.mandawahotels.com/castlemandawa good food and drinks.

Pabuji ki Phad is an art form of Rajasthan which combines folk singing and dancing interspersed with interludes to interact with the audience in front of a scroll or a canvas known as Phad (pronounced Phar) that depicts the life and times of a folk deity called Pabuji. The Phad functions as a 'portable' temple. The Programme subject to change. 50 BATESHWAR, MADHYA PRADESH, INDIA OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2015 51

7 November (Saturday) Mandawa Jaipur by surface - 180 Kms 9 November (Monday) Jaipur Agra by surface - 237 Kms/ 05 / 4 hrs approx hrs approx

Arrive Jaipur. Overnight at Trident Jaipur. Arrive Agra. Overnight at Trident Agra.

Breathtaking views of the serene Mansagar Lake and the striking Aravalli range Trident, Agra, set amidst beautiful gardens, fountains, landscaped central welcome you at the Trident Hotel, Jaipur. Situated en route to Jaipur's famous courtyards, is built of red stone reminiscent of the Mughal era. The hotel is Amber Fort, the Trident, Jaipur oers gracefully furnished rooms. literally a stone's throw away from the Taj Mahal.

Later in the aernoon we cover the main sights of Jaipur city in a half day guided We would make an enroute stop at Fetehpur Sikri, an UNESCO World Heritage tour. Site.

Website: hp://www.tridenthotels.com/jaipur Website: hp://www.tridenthotels.com/agra

8 November (Sunday) Jaipur 10 November (Tuesday) Agra Jarar by surface - 80 Kms / 2 hrs approx Today is a day with Elephants.

Today we start our day with a sunrise visit to the Taj Mahal when it is less crowded. In the morning we arrive into the magnicent Amber Fort on Elephants. One of the most intriguing aspects of the Taj Mahal is its magical quality of changing its colour depending on the time of the day. The best time to view this Post our Amber Tour we head to the Fairmont for a leisurely lunch. stunning beauty during the day is at dawn or sunset.

Website of Fairmont : hp://www.fairmont.com/jaipur/dining/ We return to our hotel for breakfast and post breakfast continue to Jarar.

Post lunch we visit an elephant farm located close by for an up-close-and Arrive Chambal. Overnight at Chambal Safari Lodge. personal encounter with these gentle giants. Try your hand at painting their foreheads and front legs, feeding them and later go on a short ride on your Remainder of your time at leisure. decorated elephant. You may also want to learn to climb an elephant just like a Mahout does. The Chambal Safari lodge oers twelve rooms. The accommodation combines the

Website: hp://www.tridenthotels.com/jaipur Programme subject to change. 52 BATESHWAR, MADHYA PRADESH, INDIA OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2015 53

warmth of local homes with the comfort of modern amenities. Every eort has 13 November (Friday) Jarar Delhi by train. Train - been made to make this lodge as eco-friendly and sympathetic to its surroundings 18:05/22:05hrs as possible.

Today morning we can either go for a river safari on the Chambal River with a Website: hp://www.chambalsafari.com naturalist to spot birds, wildlife and soak in the unique landscape of the Chambal Ravines or take it easy at the Lodge.

11 November (Wednesday) Jarar Late aernoon we drive to Etawah (1 hr) which is the nearest rail head to catch the onwards train to Delhi. Today we spend our day at our own pace at the Bateshwar Animal Fair which is a short drive from the Chambal Safari Lodge. On arrival Check-in at the Eaton Smart Hotel (inside Terminal 3 of the International airport). Those needing just a pre-ight freshen up, instead of a One of the biggest and oldest animal fairs in northern India, the Bateshwar Cale room one can make use of Eaton Smart's innovative Aqua Pods. Eciently Fair still aracts hundreds of buyers, particularly those looking for quality horse designed, you can use these private showers and take advantage of the hotel's and camel breeds. services and facilities.

Today is also Diwali. Celebrate the Festival of Lights with your host. Later board your international ight back home.

Website: hp://www.chambalsafari.com Website: hp://www.newdelhiairport.eatonhotels.com

12 November (Thursday) Jarar

Day at our own pace at the Bateshwar Animal Fair. Enjoy a sunset boat ride on the Yamuna River when the temples is in a beautiful saron glow one of these days.

Website: hp://www.chambalsafari.com

Programme subject to change. 54 BATESHWAR, MADHYA PRADESH, INDIA OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2015 55

Departure 2 Website: hp://www.claridges.com Religious Fair Dates: 17th November - 28th November, 2015 19 November (Thursday) Patan Patan by surface - 180 Kms/ 4 hrs approx The Religious Fair of Bateshwar is the highlight. Aer a lull of about 4-5 days aer the Animal Fair, the Religious Fair starts. Vast numbers of shops oer an Arrive Patan. Overnight stay at Patan Mahal. amazing multitude of goods stretch as far out as the eye can see and beyond. The various religious sects and their aendant Sadhus (ascetics) too set up camp. Remainder of your time at leisure. Families dressed in their colourful best visit for the obligatory dip in the river, prayers at the temples, blessings of the holy-men, and shopping for all manner of Nestled in a valley formed by 3 hills, Patan Mahal rises in the distance at the end goods. of the city. The palace is well-located with an unhindered birds-eye view of the 13th century ancestral fort and palace called Badal Mahal which stands loily at an imposing height. 17 November (Tuesday) - Arrive Delhi. Overnight stay at The Claridges, New Delhi Website: hp://www.patanmahal.com

The Claridges, New Delhi one of the best addresses in Lutyens' Delhi and is preferably located to explore the sights and the sounds of the city.

Website: hp://www.claridges.com

18 November (Wednesday) Delhi

Aer a leisurely breakfast discover the charms of Old Delhi with a friend of Distant Frontiers. This walking tour of Old Delhi acquaints you with the food, the culture and the rich heritage of the Old city. The narrow winding lanes will surprise you with its vibrancy, heritage buildings, places of worship and mouth- watering cuisine. Our adventure nally ends with lunch at the ancestral home of our friend.

Aernoon at leisure to enjoy the facilities of your hotel. Programme subject to change. 56 BATESHWAR, MADHYA PRADESH, INDIA OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2015 57

20 November (Friday) Patan Mandawa by surface - 125 kms/ 21 November (Saturday) Mandawa 3.5 hrs approx Today we take a short drive (40 minutes) to visit the beautiful town of Ramgarh Arrive Mandawa. Overnight at Mandawa Castle. which has some of the most beautiful fresco wall paintings whose vibrant colors and exquisite details cover almost every square inch of available wall space. Castle Mandawa is a curious mixture of the old and the new. Medieval turreted towers, palanquin-roofed balconies, blend with modern comforts in old-world Aer enjoying a lovely walk in the town with its many Havelis we drop in at rooms. Ramgarh Fresco for lunch.

In the evening experience the unique 'Pabuji Ki Phad' where art and music meets Website of Ramgarh Fresco : hp://www.ramgarhfresco.com good food and drinks. Aernoon at leisure to enjoy the facilities of your hotel. Pabuji ki Phad is an art form of Rajasthan which combines folk singing and dancing interspersed with interludes to interact with the audience in front of a Website: hp://www.mandawahotels.com/castlemandawa scroll or a canvas known as Phad (pronounced Phar) that depicts the life and times of a folk deity called Pabuji. The Phad functions as a 'portable' temple. The Balladeers are from the Nayak community who are Muslims and consider 22 November (Sunday) Mandawa Jaipur by surface - 180 Kms themselves as Muslim Rajputs. / 4 hrs approx

Tonight you will also sample a couple of varieties of Aasa, a traditional homemade Arrive Jaipur. Overnight at Trident Jaipur. liqueur of the Shekhawati region brewed from local fruits and herbs. Breathtaking views of the serene Mansagar Lake and the striking Aravalli range Dinner will be authentic Rajasthani and the recipes straight from the cook book of welcome you at the Trident Hotel, Jaipur. Situated en route to Jaipur's famous the Mandawa family. Amber Fort, the Trident, Jaipur oers gracefully furnished rooms.

Website: hp://www.mandawahotels.com/castlemandawa Later in the aernoon we cover the main sights of Jaipur city in a half day guided tour.

Website: hp://www.tridenthotels.com/jaipur

Programme subject to change. 58 BATESHWAR, MADHYA PRADESH, INDIA OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2015 59

23 November (Monday) Jaipur Today is Full Moon and we visit the Taj Mahal at night to see this stunning beauty glimmering under the moonlight. Today is a day with Elephants. Website: hp://www.tridenthotels.com/agra In the morning we arrive into the magnicent Amber Fort on Elephants.

Post our Amber Tour we head to the Fairmont for a leisurely lunch. 25 November (Wednesday) Agra Jarar by surface - 80 Kms / 2 hrs approx Website of Fairmont : hp://www.fairmont.com/jaipur/dining If you are up for it we have the option of a sunrise visit to the Taj Mahal today Post lunch we visit an elephant farm located close by for an up-close-and when it is less crowded. One of the most intriguing aspects of the Taj Mahal is its personal encounter with these gentle giants. Try your hand at painting their magical quality of changing its colour depending on the time of the day. The best foreheads and front legs, feeding them and later go on a short ride on your time to view this stunning beauty during the day is at dawn or sunset. decorated elephant. You may also want to learn to climb an elephant just like a Mahout does. Post breakfast we continue to Jarar.

Website: hp://www.tridenthotels.com/jaipur Arrive Chambal. Overnight at Chambal Safari Lodge.

Remainder of your time at leisure. 24 November (Tuesday) - Jaipur Agra by surface - 237 Kms/ 05 hrs approx The Chambal Safari lodge oers twelve rooms. The accommodation combines the warmth of local homes with the comfort of modern amenities. Every eort has Arrive Agra. Overnight at Trident Agra. been made to make this lodge as eco-friendly and sympathetic to its surroundings as possible. Trident, Agra, set amidst beautiful gardens, fountains, landscaped central courtyards, is built of red stone reminiscent of the Mughal era. The hotel is Website: hp://www.chambalsafari.com literally a stone's throw away from the Taj Mahal.

We would make an enroute stop at Fetehpur Sikri, an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Programme subject to change. 60 BATESHWAR, MADHYA PRADESH, INDIA OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2015 61

26 November (Thursday) Jarar 28 November (Saturday) Jarar Delhi by train. Train - 18:05/22:05hrs Today we spend our day at our own pace at the Bateshwar Religious Fair which is a short drive from the Chambal Safari Lodge. Today morning we can either go for a river safari on the Chambal River with a naturalist to spot birds, wildlife and soak in the unique landscape of the Chambal Bateshwar is an ancient temple complex and an important spiritual and cultural Ravines or take it easy at the Lodge. centre for Hindus. The temple complex consists of more than 100 temples dedicated to lord Shiva. The temples are all lined along the crescent shaped curve Late aernoon we drive to Etawah (1 hr) which is the nearest rail head to catch the of the river-front and several have ghats (steps) leading down to the water. onwards train to Delhi.

Watch local families dressed in their colourful best visit for the obligatory dip in On arrival Check-in at the Eaton Smart Hotel (inside Terminal 3 of the the river, prayers at the temples, blessings of the Sadhus who set up camps, and International airport). Those needing just a pre-ight freshen up, instead of a shopping for all manner of goods from the many stalls set up during the religious room one can make use of Eaton Smart's innovative Aqua Pods. Eciently fair. designed, you can use these private showers and take advantage of the hotel's services and facilities. Later enjoy the evening Maha Aarti at the bank of the Yamuna River. Later board your international ight back home. Website: hp://www.chambalsafari.com Website: hp://www.newdelhiairport.eatonhotels.com

27 November (Friday) Jarar

Day at our own pace at the Bateshwar Religious Fair. Enjoy a sunset boat ride on the Yamuna River when the temples is in a beautiful saron glow one of these days.

Website: hp://www.chambalsafari.com

Programme subject to change. 62 BATESHWAR, MADHYA PRADESH, INDIA OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2015 63

Insider tip

Aer a visit to the fair, make your way to the Jarar Family Kunj on the banks of the river. The roof top of the Kunj provides birds-eye views of the fairgrounds, temples and bathing ghats. It allows one to sit back and soak up the atmosphere, whilst drinking the local kular tea. The views of the sunset are spectacular and bathe the temples in a beautiful saron glow. The perfect antidote to the hustle and bustle all around, says Inderjeet Rathod from our Destination Knowledge Centre who has experienced the Bateshwar Fair rst-hand.

During your stay at the Chambal Safari Lodge don't forget to try their Khad Meat. A whole leg of lamb cooked in a 2 feet deep pit with coal re embers at the boom, Khad meat is a local specialty, much rened over the years, but owes it origin to the Baghis' (rebels) turbulent existence in the behad (ravines) of Chambal. The much maligned and notorious Chambal behad can proudly lay claim to this ingenious recipe for cooking meat, creating a delicacy in the most hostile environs. When a re could not be lit without fear of discovery by the police and death by the bullet, when each meal could well be your last and when rebellion against the system was the highest mark of honour,says Kuntil Baruwa from our Destination Knowledge Centre who has stayed at the Chambal Safari Lodge and explored the area.

Go for a walk in the village of Holipura. It is a mere 15 minute drive from the Chambal Safari Lodge. A walk in the village of Holipura which has 500 years of recorded history looks like an abandoned movie set of a period lm with its many locked up Havelis will remind you of the Shekhawati region of Rajasthan minus its fresco paintings. The Havelis dates back to the late 1800's to the early 1900's. A fair number are still in the hands of the descendants of the original owners and retain a certain character and charm. Many of the Havelis are ne examples of colonial architecture with ample Indian inuences adapted to a rural scenario. As such they have a unique architectural blend and a beautiful synthesis of myriad traditions, says Soumya Mukherji from our Destination Knowledge Centre who has stayed at the Chambal Safari Lodge and explored the area.

Read More hp://www.bateshwar.co.uk

For a detailed itinerary and quote contact [email protected]

Follow us on FACEBOOK and TWITTER for more festival updates from India Programme subject to change. 64 CHOTA UDEPUR, GUJRAT, INDIA MARCH 2016 65

Bhagoriya Sample Itinerary

HIGHLIGHTS 13 March (Sunday) - Arrive Mumbai. Overnight stay at Hya Young men and women in matching bright colour aire. Watch villagers singing and dancing in groups. Regency A rustic village fair atmosphere. Holi; the festival of colours. Located adjacent to Mumbai's international airport the hotel is ideal place to relax before the next day's early morning ight.

Bhagoriya is a series of celebrations just before Holi; the festival of colours at Website: hp://www.mumbai.regency.hya.com/en/hotel/our-hotel.html various places in the tribal belt of Gujarat & Madhya Pradesh. What's striking about the festival are the groups of young girls and boys, who come to the festival in matching bright colourful dresses to enjoy, sing, dance and get taoos etched. 14 March (Monday) Mumbai Bhuj by ight. Overnight stay Bhagoriya haat (market) also coincides with the completion of harvesting, adding at Hotel Prince to it the dimension of being an agricultural festival as well. If the crops have been good, the festival assumes an additional air of gaiety. We leave our hotel on time to board the early morning ight to Bhuj. Sandwiches and Coee/Juice on board your ight with our best compliments. Destination Chota Udepur, Gujarat Arrive Bhuj. Remainder of your time at leisure. Evening stroll in Bhuj town. Festival Date 21st March, 2016

Travel Duration 11 nights / 12 days Prince is Bhuj's rst 3 star hotel. Now 3 decades into the business, the hotel has been recently renovated. Visitors can also procure liquor permits and buy their Group Size Ideal for FITs and small groups of 6 - 8 pax liquor here (Monday to Saturday/11:00 hrs 19:30 hrs). Included in the Tour • An accompanying English speaking Escort cum Guide • Breakfast, transportation, accommodation, all sightseeing as Website: hp://www.hotelprinceonline.com per itinerary

Excluded from the Tour Expenses of personal nature

Programme subject to change. 66 CHOTA UDEPUR, GUJRAT, INDIA MARCH 2016 67

15 March (Tuesday) Bhuj 17 March (Thursday) - Bajana

Today we spend the day in dierent villages and with dierent communities of Today morning we proceed for a safari into the Lile Rann Wild Ass Sanctuary. We the Banni area, a low-lying, sixteen hundred square kilometers pastureland close spend the aernoon visiting villages in and around Bajana for an insight into the to the salt marshes of the Great Rann of Kutch for an insight into their unique life and times of these various colourful rural communities. lifestyle, beautiful handicras and traditional embroidery. Website: hp://www.theroyalsafaricamp.com Packed Lunch from Hotel Prince.

Website: hp://www.hotelprinceonline.com 18 March (Friday)-Bajana-Modhera-Patan-Sidhpur- Banaskantha by surface 300Km approx/6-7 hrs. Overnight stay 16 March (Wednesday) Bhuj Bajana by surface 240 Km at Balaram Palace

approx/ 5-6 hrs. Overnight stay at Royal Safari Camp Today is a long but interesting day as we make several interesting stops while on our way close to the borders of Rajasthan. Our rst stop is the 11th century Sun Today we continue to Bajana which is the ideal base from which you can explore Temple at Modhera one of the nest example of Hindu architecture of Gujarat. the Rann of Kutch, the last refuge of the Asiatic Wild Ass, an elegant member of From here we continue to Patan where we meet the Salvi family; the last of the the horse family. weavers who have preserved a unique form of textile weaving which dates back to the 11th century. Patan is also home to the exquisite 11th century step-well Rani- Enroute we stop either at Dhamadka for an insight into Ajrak Block Printing or ka-Vav which we will visit. The carvings and the sculptures here are gorgeous. Dhaneti to see the traditional embroidery of the Ahir community considered one From Patan we head to provincial town of Sidhpur and spend some time walking of the nest in Gujarat. around its streets lined up on both sides by houses imitating western Renaissance features and embellishments. In the last 50 years Sidhpur has been abandoned We will also stop by a coon ginning mill to see coon being brought from the almost totally, the only residents' le being women and old men. elds, cleaned and wrapped into bales. Right next door is an extracting unit where you can see oil being extracted from coon seeds. We arrive at Balaram Palace and check in to our rooms. Balaram Palace, once the hunting retreat of the Lohani Nawab of Palanpur, is now a heritage classic hotel. It Arrive Bajana. Reminder of your time at leisure. is a graceful manifestation of neo-classical and baroque architectural style. The palace is set in 13 acres of terraced upland rising from a hilly stream and Website: hp://www.theroyalsafaricamp.com surrounded by lush green gardens and designed ower beds.

Programme subject to change. 68 CHOTA UDEPUR, GUJRAT, INDIA MARCH 2016 69

Remainder of your time at leisure. 20 March (Sunday) Champaner Jambughoda by surface 250 Km approx / 5hrs. Overnight stay at A Home for Website: hp://www.balarampalace.com Nature Lovers

19 March (Saturday) Banaskantha - Poshina- Ahmedabad by Today we continue to Jambughoda aer a leisurely breakfast via Champaner- a surface 250 Km approx / 5 hrs. Overnight stay at the House of UNESCO World Heritage Site. The main araction here is the Jumma Mosque built in 1513 with its curious mix of Hindu-Muslim architecture. MG Arrive Jambughoda. Check-in to your rooms. Remainder of your time at leisure. Website: hp://www.jambughoda.com Aer breakfast we visit a few local temples here and continue to Ahmedabad while making en-route stops at tribal selements and the quaint town of Poshina. At Poshina we will see poers making Terracoa Horses and also visit the Cenotaphs 21 March (Monday) - Jambughoda- Chota Udepur- Jambughoda of the rulers of Poshina. From Poshina we continue to Ahmedabad. for the Bhagoriya Festival by surface 300 kms approx/ full day Arrive Ahmedabad. Check-in to your rooms. Remainder of your time at leisure. Today we spend the day exploring the Bhagoriya Festival with our Guide cum The House of MG is a boutique heritage hotel. Built in 1924 as a home for a Escort (should there be any changes in dates at the last moment and we will do wealthy textile magnate, it has been tastefully restored to retain its old-world this on 22 March). charm but with all modern amenities and comforts. OR Later in the evening we go shopping for traditional clothes for your Holi celebrations in Jambughoda (on direct payment). We visit the Kavaat Weekly Market (only on Mondays) where the traditional and not so traditional seamlessly merge for a few hours to create its own unique sights, We return to have dinner at the Agashiye, the lovely terrace restaurant of the smells, sounds, colours and vibes. House of MG which serves authentic vegeterian Gujarati fare. On our way back from the Kavaat Market we visit the home of a local Rathwa tribal Website: hp://www.houseofmg.com for an insight into Pithora Painting. Pithora is a highly ritualistic painting done on the walls by tribes such as the Rathwas who live in central Gujarat. We nd Pithora paintings on three inner walls of their houses. They believe Pithora paintings brings peace, prosperity and happiness and is done to say Thank You to the Gods once a wish is fullled. Website: hp://www.jambughoda.com Programme subject to change. 70 CHOTA UDEPUR, GUJRAT, INDIA MARCH 2016 71

22 March (Tuesday) - Jambughoda

Today we spend the day exploring the Bhagoriya Festival with our Guide cum Escort (should there be any changes in dates at the last moment and we are not able to do this on 21 March).

OR

We visit the home of a local Rathwa tribal for an insight into Pithora Painting. Pithora is a highly ritualistic painting done on the walls by tribes such as the Rathwas who live in central Gujarat. We nd Pithora paintings on three inner walls of their houses. They believe Pithora paintings brings peace, prosperity and happiness and is done to say Thank You to the Gods once a wish is fullled.

Website: hp://www.jambughoda.com

23 March (Wednesday) - Jambughoda

Celebrate Holi, the Festival of Colours in Jambughoda.

Website: hp://www.jambughoda.com

24 March (Thursday) - Jambughoda - Vadodara by surface. 70 kms approx/2 hr. Vadodara - Mumbai by ight

Day at leisure. We drive to Vadodara airport for our evening ight to Mumbai and connect your onward ight. 72 CHOTA UDEPUR, GUJRAT, INDIA MARCH 2016 73

Insider tip

Just a day aer the Bhagoria festival is Holi. Include an extra night stay at Jambughoda to celebrate Holi with your hosts, says Vikas Solanki from Tour Operations who has been accompanying groups and FITs to the Bhagoriya Festival for the past couple of years.

Read More

Download the Bhagoriya Festival report by Vikas Solanki who experienced it rst- hand click here

For a detailed itinerary and quote contact [email protected]

Follow us on FACEBOOK and TWITTER for more festival updates from India.

Programme subject to change. 74 ANANDPUR SAHIB, PUNJAB, INDIA MARCH 2016 75

Hola Mohalla Sample Itinerary

HIGHLIGHTS 19 March (Saturday) - Arrive Delhi. Overnight stay at Shangri- Mock bales, sword-ghting, archery and horse-riding displays by the Nihang Sikhs. La, New Delhi Interaction with Nihang Sikhs. The Shangri-La is located at a walking distance from Connaught Place, one of the most liked and lively shopping centres of New Delhi and near to many historic sites as well. One of the highlights of your hotel is its ne dining restaurants The Sikh festival of Hola Mohalla is celebrated in Anandpur Sahib, Punjab the day serving Indian, Mediterranean, Asian and Italian specialties. aer Holi, the festival of colours. Hola Mohalla was started by the tenth Sikh Guru, Shri Guru Gobind Singh, in 1701 as a gathering of Sikhs for military exercises and Website: hp://www.shangri-la.com/newdelhi/erosshangrila mock bales who were at that time baling the Mughal Empire. It is a time for Sikhs to rearm their commitment to the community and involves everyone. 20 March (Sunday) - Delhi Destination Anandpur Sahib, Punjab Today morning discover the charms of Old Delhi with a friend of Distant Festival Date 24th March, 2016 Frontiers. This walking tour of Old Delhi acquaints you with the food, the culture Travel Duration 9 nights / 10 days and the rich heritage of the Old city. The narrow winding lanes will surprise you with its vibrancy, heritage buildings, places of worship and mouth-watering Group Size Ideal for FITs and small groups of 10 - 12 pax cuisine. Our adventure nally ends with lunch at the ancestral home of our Included in the Tour • An accompanying English speaking Escort cum Guide friend. • Breakfast, transportation, accommodation, all sightseeing as per itinerary Aernoon at leisure to enjoy the facilities of your hotel. Excluded from the Tour Expenses of personal nature Overnight stay at Shangri-La, New Delhi.

Website: hp://www.shangri-la.com/newdelhi/erosshangrila

Programme subject to change. 76 ANANDPUR SAHIB, PUNJAB, INDIA MARCH 2016 77

21 March (Monday) Delhi Amritsar by train. Train: 07:20 hrs Aernoon at leisure. / 13:25 hrs Website: hp://www.svaasa.com

Arrive Amritsar. Overnight stay at Ranjit's Svaasa.

Ranjit's Svaasa was once the private residence of a prominent local family of 23 March (Wednesday) Amritsar Anandpur Sahib by surface Amritsar and now lovingly converted into a heritage hotel by its owners. Its 200Km/ 5 hrs approx history dates back to over 200 years and seven generations.

Arrive Anandpur Sahib. Overnight at Aagman Luxury Camps. The camps are Aernoon at leisure. comfortable and spacious with the advantage of being at a walking distance from Gurdwara Kesgarh Sahib the epicentre of the festivities. Post dinner we visit the Golden Temple, where its community kitchen manned completely by volunteers feeds more than one hundred thousand devotes free of We do not recommend stays outside Anandpur Sahib as we have experienced cost every day. We will also witness the Night Ceremony here for an insight into rsthand that it takes a couple of hours just to reach the Hola Mohalla grounds how the Guru Granth Sahib, the Holy Book of the Sikh religion is considered a because of huge trac jams during the festival. Highly avoidable. living master who needs to rest at night. Every night at the Golden Temple there is an elaborate ceremony where the Guru Granth Sahib is carried into bed from the Aer you are adequately rested, we visit the Gurudwara Kesgarh Sahib to soak up prayer hall. And every morning the Holy Book is carried back from the resting the pious atmosphere and the sunset. place to the prayer hall of the Golden Temple amidst showering of rose petals.

You may want to also visit the Virasat-e-Khalsa Museum, a repository of the rich Website: hp://www.svaasa.com heritage of the history and culture of the Punjab. (Open on all days except Monday/09:30 hrs to 16:30 hrs).

22 March (Tuesday) Amritsar Website: hp://aagmanindia.com/Camping%20Festivals/Holla_Mohalla.aspx

Today morning we will spend our time in a village in the outskirts of Amritsar where we will be welcomed by the village band. We will walk through narrow 24 March (Thursday) Anandpur Sahib bricked laid paths for a sneak peek into the life and times of rural Punjab. We will nish the tour with a tractor ride through farm land where we will be served Today we spend the day at the Hola Mohalla festival ground showcasing cultural lunch. performances by schools children and local artists, rural sports and exhibitions on the Sikh history. Programme subject to change. 78 ANANDPUR SAHIB, PUNJAB, INDIA MARCH 2016 79

It's absolutely up to you how long you want to spend your time at the festival 27 March (Sunday) - Sheikpura Kothi ground. Your hotel is a walking distance from here. Take it easy today. Enjoy the pool and the home style food cooked by the Website: hp://aagmanindia.com/Camping%20Festivals/Holla_Mohalla.aspx Khansama who has been with the owners for over 30 years. Khansama in South Asia is a man who acts as cook and oen also as steward or butler to an auent household. 25 March (Friday) Anandpur Sahib For those interested not far from Sheikhpura Kothi, a villager has an amazing Today is the last day of the festival and the most interesting day in terms of visual private collection of artifacts from the Indus Valley Civilization. delight as well as photography. The Nihang Sikhs, who were once a part of the Sikh army that Guru Gobind Singh founded, exhibit their martial skills and through Website: hp://www.welcomheritagehotels.in/hotel-overview/sheikhpura-kothi- mock bales, sword-ghting, archery and horse-riding displays. Depending on hansi permissions we will have an interaction with a group of Nihang Sikhs during our time in Anandpur Sahib. 28 March (Monday) - Sheikpura Kothi T3 International Website: hp://aagmanindia.com/Camping%20Festivals/Holla_Mohalla.aspx Airport, New Delhi by surface 150Km/ 3 hrs approx.

We head towards New Delhi International Airport in time to catch the ight 26 March (Saturday) - Anandpur Sahib Hansi by surface 280 home. km/ 6 hrs approx

Arrive Sheikhpura. Overnight at Sheikpura Kothi.

The charming 150-year-old Sheikhpura Kothi, surrounded by 100 acres of private farmland is built on the lines of a lile French chateau. An ideal place to relax at the end of your holiday.

Website: hp://www.welcomheritagehotels.in/hotel-overview/sheikhpura-kothi- hansi

Programme subject to change. 80 ANANDPUR SAHIB, PUNJAB, INDIA MARCH 2016 81

Insider tip

Go watch the sunrise from the premises Gurudwara Kesgarh Sahib. You will come back refreshed by its positive vibes and some amazing pictures too, says Sunil Kumar from Tour Operations. Sunil Kumar has been escorting guests to the Hola Mohalla Festival since the past three years.

For a detailed itinerary and quote contact [email protected]

Follow us on FACEBOOK and TWITTER for more festival updates from India.

Programme subject to change.