..

.; ,., t, -~ .., ,""·"" ._,..,. ~~- .. ...> '11'~- ' Along Bonita Creek in the White Mountains of Arizona. CARL LARSEN

On the Trail to Rainbow Bridge JOSEF MUENCH BUSINESS IS PICKING UP AUGUST ARIZONA HIGHWAYS Travel business in Arizona is reaching new highs system. We asked an engineer in the department a PUBLISHED IN THE INTEREST OF GOOD ROADS BY THE this summer. Our highways are filled with thousands short time ago what was a modern highway. He re­ It's August, and the summer travel season is at full ARIZONA HIGHWAY DEPARTMENT swing. Where do all the people come from? From all over and thousands of cars from other states, carrying vis­ plied that it was a highway that could adequately and RAYMOND CARLSON, EDITOR itors to the hundreds of places of scenic interest in this safely take care of modern, high speed travel. So that the world, of course, and in large numbers from the eastern CIVILIZATION lfOLLOWS THE ll\IPHOVF.D HIGHWAY land of Enchantment. is the function of the Arizona highway system-to and mid-western states, but most of all from California. ONE DOLLAR PER YEAR Boulder Dam Recreational Area has experienced adequately and safely take care of modern, high speed Summer blossoms out in her most dazzling dress during 10c PER COPY unusually heavy traffic this summer, as has the Grand travel. Arizona's August, and only on the highest peaks is there ~ ADDRESS ALL COMMUNICATIONS TO ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, ARIZON" Canyon, Petrified Forest and other noted places. The Roads, however, wear out like old shoes! They are an indication that autumn has made reservations for her HIGHWAY DEPARTMENT, PHOENIX, ARIZONA travel bureau of the Arizona highway department constantly in need of repair and renovation to keep coming arrival. PRINTED IN THE U. S. A. apace with the advance in travel. More and faster * * * * * more than ever before has been swamped with inquiries Vol. XV. AUGUST, 1939 No. 8 from all over the nation regarding Arizona the vaca­ cars require better roads. Lest you get the impression that scenery is our only tionland. If you would chance to glance at the list of road stock of trade in this state, we try from time to time t0 R. T. (BOB) JONES, GOVERNOROF ARIZONA It looks very much as if 1939 is going to be the projects under construction, published elsewhere in give you an industrial portrait. This month Jim Kintner ARIZONA STATE HIGHWAY COMMISSION: year of heaviest travel in the history of this state. this issue of Arizona Highways, you might be amazed has prepared an article on Arizona's Cattle Industry, tracing J. M. PROCTER, I~RANK C. BLEDSOE. The citizens of Arizona can view with great pride at the extent of road rebuilding and new highway Chairman. 'l'ucson. Commissioner, Bisbee. its origin from the days of the Spanish colonists to the R. E. MOORE, M. L. WHEELER. the part the highway system is playing in this travel construction going on in the state at this very minute. present. Cattle prices go up and down, but when they are Vice Chairman. Jerome. Secretary. Phoenix KEMPER MARLEY. A. R. LYNCH. business. After all good roads are the instruments This is a normal, healthy function of the Arizona high­ up as they have been this past year' the industry flourishes. Commissioner, Phoenix. Assistant AttornPy General, of automobile travel and without them motor travel way department and does not represent an unusual * * * * * L.B. OWENS. Special Counsel would be a thing non-existent. construction boom. Every project in progress at this time Commissioner, Holbrook. If we may suggest a pleasant trip for you, read Helen M. W.R. HUTCHINS, STATEHIGHWAY ENGINEER It is interesting to observe the reaction of the visitor is directed toward an ultimate goal-the realization Peck's article on the Kaibab and the North Rim of Grand from some eastern state coming to Arizona for the first of a super-highway system that will not only serve Canyon. The road from Jacob Lake to North Rim has bee1: FOR AUGUST .... time. In his mind he has a picture of the state as a travel needs today, but will serve equally well to­ hard-surfaced during the past year and now the trip is a large formidable desert peopled by wild Indians, rat­ morrow and a decade from now. The men formulating nineteen thirty-nine, arizona highways offers tlesnakes and coyotes. He has heard of the scenic the highway program for the state are therefore vision­ motoring delight. This road is generally closed by snow as early as the middle of October; so take the trip in August for your consideration a cover portrait of the attractions of the state and after due hesitation packs aries, who must look into the future when considering grand canyon, south rim, by max kegley, to­ the needs of the present. Such foresight in roadbuilding or September. up the family and comes west. Too many people have gether with a book full of arizona information, secured their knowledge of Arizona from the movies will mean that twenty years from now the highways * * * * * pictorially and otherwise, as follows: and the wild west magazines. of the state will be doing business in the same satis­ Arizona's George Elbert Burr is famed throughout the To this visitor's great surprise he finds Arizona much factory way, keeping apace with the most advanced world for his etchings. We have Mr. Burr as the subject ARIZONA'S CATTLE INDUSTRY...... 4 of Arizona Sketch Book this month, with Carolann Smurth­ different than he thought he would. And most of all, he highway construction thought in the world. Without "MOUNTAIN LYING DOWN"...... 6 is tremendously impressed by the highway system of such wise planning, we would wake up some fine waite giving us his story and the story of his art creations. the state. morning and find our highways a lot of outmoded We consider the Burr etchings in this issue the most beautiful RADIO COMES TO THE NAVAJOS...... 8 The Ariozna highway system is a modern highway junk. subjects Arizona Sketch Book has had the privilege of GILES GOSWICK-LION HUNTER...... 10 offering, and we in turn offer them to you with pride and pleasure. · SAN CARLOS APACHE BASKETRY...... 12 * * * * * NAVAJO GIRL...... 15 There are lions in the hills of Arizona. If you don't believe CANYONS IN THE DISTANCE...... 16 it read the sketch on Giles Goswick, the lion hunter, by Charles Niehuis. Goswick is considered one of the most PORTRAITS BY WILSON ...... 18-27 successful lion hunters in the state today-and he has plenty ARIZONA SKETCH BOOK: to do. There remains much of the "wild" in the wild west GEORGE ELBERT BURR...... 19-26 of the present age. ROADS IN THE MAKING...... 36 * * * * * SOLDIER'S RETURN...... 37 Modernity comes to the Navajos in the form of their own radio system. John Charman discusses this 20th· century ALONG THE HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS...... 38 method of communication now being employed on Navajo ROAD PROJECTS UNDER CONSTRUCTION...... 40 Nation. The radio replaces the grapevine! YOURS SINCERELY-AND SINCERELY TO YOU 44 * * * * * ARIZONIQUES ...... Inside Back Cover Remaining with the theme Indian, Mrs. Dan R. William­ 1939 ARIZONA HIGHWAY MAP ...... ,...... Back Cover son supplies a discussion on a most interesting subject­ Apache Indian baskets. The Williamsons have an invalu­ . . . and we leave you in august hoping your able collection at their home, and Mrs. Williamson can summer has been a pleasant one, and inviting qualify as an expert. you sometime to visit with us 'way out west. * * * * * Photos? Oh! Yes! J as. R. Wilson contributes several, GENERAL OFFICE and there are others by Josef Muench, Carl Larsen, Milton SID SMYTH, A. F. RATH, Deputy State Engineer. Manager, Planning Survey. Snow, Norman G. Wallace and Barry Goldwater. The por­ F. N. GRANT., PHIL A. ISLEY, trait of the Navajo Girl by Milton Snow on page 14 is really Office Eng.ineer. Supt. of E

2 ARIZONA HIGHWAYS AUGUST, 1939 3 Spanish land grants in Arizona. A long northwest of Prescott. Since then Wil­ time before Mexico gained its indepen­ liamson Valley has made cattle history dence from Spain these ranches, or grants in Arizona. It was on the old Cross as they were called, were happy centers Triangle Ranch, near where Stevens of an ideal civilization. This was during first located, that Harold Bell Wright a period of peace between the Apaches and wrote "When a Man's a Man." the Spaniards .... 1 790 to 1815. During Stevens' time in Williamson After that, however, Hell broke out Valley the Tonto Apaches from the south­ for· recess and the white population was • brought into the state and were the be­ east and the Hualapais from toward the scarcely able to sustain itself against ginning of a good outfit located about northwest were both very active, as this the Apaches who reached the peak of two miles south of Tucson. valley was a mutual hunting ground for their fun during 1867-68. These In­ antelope. dians were responsible for wiping out Pete Kitchen and Billy Fourr arrived in Arizona about the same time as did Stevens kept an armed guard watching most of the ancient and picturesque ha­ his cattle by day and at night had them ciendas of the Spanish occupancy. Oury. Fourr was still living a few years ago near Dragoon, Arizona. Kitchen's herded into strong stockade corrals, the Among these old ranches were the early ranch was only a few miles north last of which was destroyed only a few Sopori, the Babacomari, the Raventon, of Nogales where he ran many native years ago. the Arivaca, and a number of others all cattle. These old boys didn't fear any­ The same year that Stevens arrived between Tucson and the border of Mex­ thing that walked, talked, or wore hair in the state, two men, Osborn and Ehle, ico. but just the same, they never left their brought 100 head of American cattle into The Arivaca dates back to 1751 when fort-like houses without a rifle. In spite Yavapai county over the old Beale trail a Jesuit mission existed there. In 1802 of the Apaches they managed to have from Albuquerque; but the Indians raid­ it was a thriving grant with thousands good ranches and prospered. ed them so frequently that most of their of acres of farming and grazing land, In the early 1860's several trail herds stock was destroyed. a number of mines with good prospects were moved across Arizona from Texas James Baker in 1866 brought a small of lead and gold. It came into the pos­ to the Pacific coast. With these came herd of cattle from California and was session of Americans in 1856. cowmen, some of whom dropped off the successful in locating them in Chino Just when the first pioneer American trail in Arizona to establish herds and Valley north of Prescott. Like Stevens, R. C. PROCTOR ranchman located in Arizona seems to be At Tovrea's nea,r Phoenix, choice range cattle are scientifically pen-fed before slaughtering, which procedure results in choice ranches of their own. he rode herd on them night and day. steaks. This great packing plant was founded by pioneer Arizonans, operates and prospers under the direction of Arizonans. somewhat of a question. However, the Among these early trail herders was The following year he brought 400 Mex­ credit probably should go to William Damon Slater, who in 1868 took a herd ican cattle from the Pecos River Valley Oury of Tucson who, in 1858, bought from Llano, Texas, via Apache Pass, and ·added them to his herd. 100 head of heifers and four bulls from Tucl!lon,•and Yuma to Los Angeles. He Not long after this several herds of an Illinois drover who was on his way made money out of his trip so the fol­ Texas longhorns were located on the to California. Oury added 400 head of lowing year, with the Moss brothers upper Verde Valley. Nearly 1000 head of good cattle to his herd in 1862. These of Texas, he trailed 1500 Texas long­ Texas cat1Jle were moved into the Little Arizona's CATTLEIndustry he bought from Kentucky and drove to horns over the same route to the coast. Colorado Valley in 1867 and .-that Leavenworth, Kansas, where he threw In 1864 a man named Stevens pur­ same year Felix Holt brought 400 head in with an emigrant train headed for chased some cattle from emigrants from Utah and settled on the Little Colo­ the Southwest. boµnd for California and located them rado. These were the first blooded cattle in Williamson Valley about 25 miles (Turn to Page 28)

. I ACK of today's thriving beef-cattle to question, but it is reasonable to be­ to the northeast, he had with him over industry in Arizona lies some of the lieve that he did. 1000 head of horses and mules and large Bmost interesting history of the en­ It is a matter of record though, that, in droves of "ganado-mayor'' (big stock-cat­ tire West. 1521, Gregorio Villalobos landed at Vera tle) . . . . just how much of the "big­ It was inevitable that in time one of Cruz as Governor-general and brought s tock" reached Arizona is open to specu­ the oldest of industries should reach with him a bunch of calves from the is­ lation but it is reasonable to believe that out and inundate the great pastures of land of San Domingo. These calves some did since Coronado dispatched var­ the Southwest. One might well believe were undoubtedly descendants of Spanish ious groups into Arizona from the ori­ from Biblical accounts that the range cattle left on the island by early explor~ ginal party. cattk business started on that mesa ers. In all likelihood, offspring of these The first· real cowman of the state land east of Jerusalem, for long before were at least part of the first cattle to seems to have been Father Kino. He the time of Christ the Israelites were reach Arizona. began working with the Pima Indians in herding cattle around through Asia When Coronado left Compestello in 1687, at which time they had no stock. Minor ... always looking for new water 1540 with his now-historic expedition Father. Kino was able to furinsh the and better ranges. Indians with stock from the mission pas­ However, it was nearly 1550 years tures farther to the south and by 1700 after the birth of Christ before cattle there were a number of prosperous were introduced into America and credit ranches established in southern Arizona. for that feat must go to the intrepid By·James E. KintnerOf course, Kino did not own the cattle Spanish colonizers who brought cattle on these ranches, for none of the Jesuits into south~rn Arizona nearly 100 years ever owned anything except what they before our forefatqers landed at Ply­ The cattle industry of Arizona, could carry witjl them, but he d'.d stock mouth Rock. rich in historical background, is the ranches, supervise the work on them, In 1515, when Cortez landed near today enjoying a new prosperity train the cowboys from among his COI)­ Vera Cruz, he had with him 16 horses, as scientific methods of cattle verts, and really get the cattle business the names, colpr, sex and character of well under way. '' I I . raising are taken up by the These young Brahma bulls, were imported from Texas for use on the desert ranges of Arizona. The~e 2at;tfl1'ff'fien crossed with which were given in his report. Whether cattlemen. Shortly after Father Kino's death, Herefords produce a type of cattle which can stand tremendous heat, travel long distances to water q,nd produre a good quality or not he had cattle with him is open several large ranches sprang up under of beef. ·

4 ARIZONA HIGHWAYS AUGUST, 1939 lover of wilderness areas, carpeted with river to rim on the north as it is on to the deep gorge where the Little Colo­ ferns and wild flowers and a haven for the south side and nearly all of the points l'ado adds its muddy volume to that of wild life of all kinds. Yet because of extend much further out into the can­ the big river. In this same direction but its peculiar location it is not yet "tour­ yon. Some of them range as much as a little more to the north is House Rock ist-worn" and in a way is one of Na­ fifteen to nineteen miles from the "main­ Valley skirted by the Vermilion Cliffs, ture's last strongholds, for it is surround­ land" and this affords a great advantage last remaining evidence of strata which ed on three sides by vast deserts and on in looking up and down the canyon. With formerly covered the whole region. In the third by Grand Canyon. Fifteen or an added elevation of thirteen hundred the blue background broods Navajo twenty years ago it was really a last feet the views are unsurpassed, and one Mountain near which is the Rainbow frontier, a kind of country "back of may also see far back over the south Bridge and historical Lee's Ferry. beyond" which only the more adventur­ rim where loom the snow-covered San From Point Sublime to the west, can ous and hardy could negotiate, for it Francisco Peaks and other mountains he seen Surprise Valley of Zane Grey was over two hundred miles from the over a hundred miles away. The great fame, Powell's, the Trumble Mountains railroad, with only dim wagon roads fault in the south wall, which makes and Thunder River. On a clear day and leading to it and no way to reach it possible the descent of the Bright Angel with a powerful glass one can see this from the south at all, except to swim the Trail, is plainly visible and may be fol­ river as it pours full-grown from a wall Colorado River in the bottom of Grand lowed back through the Tusayan Forest of the Canyon, and if there be no wind Canyon. for many miles. One can see the trains one can sometimes hear the roar of the Now since the Forest Service and the come and go, and at night the lights of water. Park Service have taken it over, this El Tovar flicker across thirteen miles There are all manner of atmospheric is all a different story. There ·are fine of space. effects in the big Canyon itself-no mon­ roads and trails leading to it and on to From Point Imperial at an elevation of otony there, for it is never the same from all the best points, there is a clever nine thousand feet one sees the big dawn to twilight, through sunrise to suspension bridge across the Colorado in Canyon for many miles each way with moonlight. On one hand there will be the bottom of Grand Canyon, and there occasional glimpses of the mighty Colo­ golden sunshine drenching the towers and are modern camps and fine hotels all rado, so far below that it is reduced to buttes and making them stand out with along the way. a mere thread. To the east one looks cameo-like sharpness, while on the other The North Rim is quite different from out over that medley of color and mirage hand they may be dappled with racing the South Rim in many ways. In the which is the Painted Desert, beyond to cloud shadows or darkened by storm first place it is three times as far from the ever-fascinating Indian country and ( Turn to Page 32)

COPYRIGHT BY L. C. UPDIKE OF JEN DIKE STUDIO. The mighty Kaibab forest of northern Arizona, one of the remote r~gions_ of the Unite1 Sta~es, tumbles _over the North Rj'YI'},of Grand Canyon. This beautiful and picturesque section offers dazzling vistas, enchanting views of a wilderness to the visitor. ''MountainLying Down''

OUNTAIN lying down, or "flat An Unusual Vacation grand idea to go to Grand Canyon by top mountain" is the translation Land on the North Rim car or train, then down into and across M from the Piute of the word Kai­ of the Grand Canyon. the big canyon by mule-back and pack bab, a name which these Indians have train. Here are trails of a thousand given to the beautiful plateau region thrills, and · every mile is packed with northern Arizona, at one time the last scenery new to travel-weary eyes. Then which forms a large portion of the north outpost of Mormonism and the setting rim of the Grand Canyon. after two or three days in the Canyon for one of Zane Grey's famous novels one "tops out" into the quiet, peaceful Like most Indian names, this one is of the west. Or one can go there from splendor of the Kaibab Forest. also very appropriate, for one may start the south over Highway 89, which crosses out onto this great plateau over fine the Little Colorado at Cameron, and But whichever way one chooses to go, roads and through thick forests, and the big Colorado at Navajo Bridge. It many delightful vacation surprises are then, hardly realizing you have climbed then leads through House Rock Valley, in store. Being of such altitude, the at all, come suddenly and without warn­ where may be seen one of the last few summer season is necessarily very short, ing to an abrupt stop at an altitude of remaining herds of buffalo, thence to but how enchanting while it lasts­ nearly nine thousand feet, to gaze out Jacob Lake and on to the mountain bright sunlit days gypsying along dim forest trails, drinking in the crisp, wine­ over that amazing splurge of scenery from there. which is the Grand Canyon. Nine thou­ If one be of a more hardy nature, and like air, cool and star-studded nights sand feet is a good-sized mountain in wishes to make more of an adventure when silence takes possession of the any man's country. out of his vacation, then it would be a world and the hush is broken only by the soft cry of a night bird or the friendly To make this trip one may drop down chirp of crickets. The Kaibab forest is blanketed with almost impenetrable snow drifts during the cold winter months, but summer and fall find from points north over Highway 91, the it in all its glory, Herds of deer roam within its border. The 40-mile drive from Jacob Lake to North Rim is a thrilling Arrowhead Trail, through Fredonia in BYHELEN M. PECK This plateau is a paradise for the true experience. 7 6 ARIZONA· HIGHWAYS AUGUST, 1939 at his changing world, not a little con­ fused but withal fascinated at this new­ est of innovations in his wilderness. With superstitious awe he respects a radio re­ ceiver as a god from his underworld. RAD I 0 The sacred Mountain Chant, the Yei­ bi-chi and the pagan music of other an­ cient ceremonials will be broadcast as features of the entertainment program to sugar-coat the government's periodic COMESTO THE broadcasts on land management and stock reduction, the latter a source of bitter contention between two schools of Navajo thought. More than 150 miles, as radio travels from their capital, are 9,000 Navajos liv­ NAVAJOS ing in their immemorial homeland, which they reverently call "Dinne Txa." They are alarmed at the encroachment of white stock interest on their already impover­ ished land. The Indian Service, protec­ BYJOHN CHARMAN tor of the peaceful shepherds, is behind an act now before Congress to add some PHOTOS COURTESY NAVAJO INDIAN SERVICE one million New Mexico acres of this no­ The Navajos themselves erected the man's land to the Reservation. Here, tall radio towers. Here is 110-foot too, the Navajo radio station is expected XPLORING shortwave radio fans wards. Radio has come to the 16 mil­ mast reaching skyward at Tuba who turn their sets to 2994 kilo­ lion-acre Navajo nation and the myster­ Throughout th~ 16,000,000 acre reservation, Navajos listen to broadcasts in their own to prove of value in acquainting the iso­ City, Arizona, Indian Agency. tongue at trading P?Sts and sub-agencies. This family has acquired a battery-operated Ecycles are hearing broadcasts in a ious Indian "grapevine" which for cen­ receiver and seem to thoroughly enjoy the strcmge box. lated· Indians of the proposed extension turies usually misinformed the tribesmen, language so foreign and music so weird a modern broadcasting station at Window area with the progress their leaders are that some may believe the natives of an Rock, Arizona, capital of the Navajos. dominantly oraly-minded. Only five per­ There will be no more agonizing days making in securing title to the disputed undiscovered island or men of Mars are I range. In keeping with 20th Century Washington officials dedicated the cent of the tribe understand English. of waiting for precious serum at Crown calling America. Educational programs in the Navajo Point or Tuba City hospitals while diph­ What will the ultimate result of the in­ The exotic gutteral voices from your progress, the radio . has come Reservation's new radio system which language, they say, should broaden the theria victims at those isolated outposts troduction of radio be to the primitive loud speakers might as well be from men to supplant the dark and mys­ includes less powerful stations at three primitively narrow sphere of Navajo writhe near death. Radio will flash the Navajo no one can tell. "A radio in every pf another world for never before in their terious 'grapevine' in carrying strategic points in Arizona and New thought. They envision their people hogan" may become the slogan of the ancient history have the Navajo Indians tidings throughout the broad ex- Mexico, and eleven semi-portable sets. distress signal over snow-choked trails panses of Navajo Land. They are heard by large groups of the grasping at last the philosophy of land and an airplane will speed the medicine Indian Service. of the Southwest United States used the conservation which the New Deal has Reservation's 50,000 Indians huddled to the sickroom. The lonely and storied Navajo sheep­ white man's radio gadgets. only partially succeeded in getting over "Hell of a small man in a hell of a arour..:l. receiving sets at the white man's The colorful redman, from the mocas­ herder may soon regard his portable re­ t9 the tribe. There will be talks by tribal small box" is the way the amazed Indians is on its way out. Rumors which sweep trading posts, for few tribesmen have sins on his feet to the dangling tur­ ceiving set as indispensable as his faith­ leaders on topics dealing wit)l Navajo describe the government's latest step in the Navajo's vast domain like wildfire radios in their primitive dwellings or quoise pendants in his ears, is amazed government, resources, stocks, arts and ful dog. • the long-range educational program of its now are supplanted by the facilities of" hogans. Tribal leaders immediately in­ terpreted the words "from Washington." crafts and even "story hours" devoted The officials said in simple language to mythological recitations by the ven­ that the most important function of the erable old chiefs whose quavering voices tribe's broadcasting station will be to will be flung from the tall towers of broadcast the proceedings of the tribal radio back a thousand years to the flick­ council which meets four or five times ering blaze of an eerie campfire and its a year at Window Rock. Much of the cirde of strange faces. opposition to the Indian Service Conser­ The Navajo nation is an area larger vation program is traceable to misunder­ than Massachusetts, Connecticut and standing by the squaws of the council's Delaware combined with population scat­ deliberations. Though masters of the tered in three states. Indian Service of­ family, the squaws seldom attend tribal ficials in radio-equipped cars will be in pow-wows, preferring to let the men do constant contact with the central agency. the talking. When the bucks return Mobile transmitters will flash calls for from the big pipe-smokes, they often in­ aid in circumstances that befell several advertently misinterpret what actually hundred Navajo pinon gatherers, snow­ happened. Now comes radio to change bound and foodless in the winter of 1936. all that. In fact., the microphone may The far-flung government works pro­ make Mr. Navajo a trifle cagey if he knows the missus is hanging onto hirs , gram on the Reservation, requiring per­ words in some distant hogan. sonnel to live at remote points far from human habitations, will be speeded ny The younger Navajos, educated in · radio. Orders will be hurled through Uncle Sam's schools at Haskell and Riv­ the ether and like radio patrolmen, field erside, are jubilant. They point out the workers will be informed and ready to "Hell of a small man in a hell of a small box" is the way the Navajo characterize the predicament of their parents who have Hosteen Yazzie Begay speaks to his tribesmen through the mysterious microphone white man's radio gadgets, but these progressive fellows in the operating room of cope with emergencies. from the Navajo Capital at Window Rock KTGM at Window Rock, Arizona, are learning what makes radio tick. no written language and who are pre- - AUGUST, 1939 8 ARIZONA HIGHWAYS 9 men who hunt with hounds-and they dogs finished the race. The other six were· unanimous in the opinion that the had been taken off the trail because of Goswick pack of lion hounds is the best­ cactus and rock-torn feet and complete trained in the country. As we stood exhaustion. there with the pack around us, Goswick Mr. Hooker ran off a movie film for told us about them. us that he took on one of the hunts. He "They're all descendants of a pack of explained as the film began to run Redbone and Walkers that my grandad through the projector, that the dogs brought into the country years ago. caught this particular lion on the ground. Most people think hounds are lazy, but That is, the animal didn't have a chance those dogs will run a lion's trail ·until to climb a tree or a ledge. they leave tracks of blood themselves The moving pictures flashed on the from their raw feet. And they're smart screen and we saw dogs running fast, too. I've watched from a distance when noses to the ground, occasionally lifting they bay or tree a lion. While the rest their heads to bay. Gradually they of 'em hold the lion, one of them will run picked up speed. We could see they were up on a high point to see if I'm coming! "running breast high in scent" and sud­ But let's go inside, I've got a lot of pic­ denly the lion· itself appeared, jumping tures to show you.'' out of a thicket of manzanita. He introduced us to his family: his In a flash the hounds were on it, cir­ wife, two daughters and his son. From cling first and then closing in for the the hundreds of pictures we saw in the fight and kill. The pictures showed a next couple of ho'urs, we found not one close-up of the ensuing fight. The lion lion hunter, but a whole family of them. charged and caught a dog, holding it to Even the youngest girl, Edna, only the ground, mauling and biting it. Just seventeen, has already "treed" three as we were about to ask if the dog was mountain lions with the dogs and shot killed, a hand flashed into the picture, them. grabbed the lion by the tail and pulled him off the dog! While we sat there, the phone rang. Our exclamation of surprise brought Giles answered it and when he came a laugh from Ralph Hooker, back he said, "That was a rancher near "Yes, that was Goswick !" Yava, reporting lion working in the -and believe it or not, the same Gos­ neighborhood of his ranch. Guess I'll wick, when he has a vacation-takes his have to go down there tomorrow.'' THE LION dogs and goes bear-hunting! • As we questioned further, we learned that the ranchers, in riding the hills, time Westerners, doesn't really open up taking care of their cattle, come upon and talk to strangers, especially about lion sign: calves killed or mutilated, car­ his hunting ability, so we got the real story or stories from his friend, Ralph GILES GOSWICK-THE HUNTER casses of colts, burros, deer, tracks, etc. They immediately call Mr. Goswick, who Hooker, and Bob Born, undersheriff of loads his hounds into his truck, his horse Yavapai county, both of whom have gone FTER a half dozen visits to the since "Old Red" has retired to live on his in a traiier and off he goes on the trail on hunts with Goswick. little ranchh?use near ~,ay~r, l!!Ocial security. of the killer. Bob Born told us about the lion meat A Arizona, we fmally "caught him Before we went out to the Goswick dinner that Goswick and Hooker gave -the man we sought to interview. ranch we talked to several hunters- But Mr. Goswick, like all true old- to their friends, all of whom mistook "He" is Giles Goswick, government lion the meat for pork! Another time on 'l hunter, with over two hundred official picnic some schoolmarms enjoyed a kills to his credit. delicacy cooked in a dutch oven by the As we walked up the path.to the house hunter himself. These erudite ladies in response to his typically western in­ commented on the deliciousness of the vitation, to "Come in an' sit by the choice cut of pork loin-when it was fire," a couple of lean hounds got up lion in their teeth all the time! from the step, stretched, gave us a tenta­ Giles Goswick But going from levity to the serious tive sniff and stepped slowly out of side of Goswick's work, Ralph Hooker the way. We stopped to pet one, and told us about one hunt Goswick went on: before we could go in the house, another The hunter got on the trail of a stock­ -a portly old red dog-walked up stiff­ killing lion in the Camp Wood country ly for his share of the ear scratching. during the cold, wintery month of Feb­ Goswick stepped easily down from the Lion Hunter ruary. For four days he and his hounds porch, and in response to our question ·hung tenaciously to the "cat's"' spoor. answered, "Yes, those are some of the « (( {{ Forty-eight hours without food! One dogs. The old red one is 'Old Red.' night he slept out, between two camp He's eighteen years old now and has fires and nearly two feet of snow for been the best dog I ever ran. Been on a BYCHARLES C. NIEHUIS a blanket. In the end he caught the hundred and fifty-seven lion hunts.'' lion, about forty miles from the strike. (( (( « Another time in the barren, cactus­ , While we stood there talking, seven covered mountains near New River he fuore dogs came in. Three black and With Photographic Embellishment By The Author started on a killer's trail with ten dogs, white ones, Sport, Pitch and Smokey, all and again it was a four-day race. When brothers, and Goswick's best dogs now, the lion was finally caught, only four THE DOGS ARIZONA HIGHWAYS 10 AUGUST, 1939 11 During the stirring decade, 1880 to 1890, Dan R. Will~amson, now U. S. commissi~ner _at Glob~, ~-ollected ln~ian In history, the Apache Indians distinguished themselves for their amazing ability to waqe war against the baskets and other handiwork from the Apache Indians. Estee1;1,ed by th_e Indians, Mr. Willia_mson received whites. The artistry of these Indians in the making of baskets has never been fully appreciated; yet collectors as gifts many of these rare objects, others he_ purchased. At his h_ome in Gf?be, the collection gracefully rate this handiwork as examples of a rare and fine art. Today basket making is practiced only by the older adorns the walls. Pictured above are two sides of the room, showing many fine examples of Apache basket Apaches the 11ounger generation devoting their interests and activities to more spectacular pursuits. Above making. ' · are examples of Indian basketry in the Williamson collection at Globe.

several coats of melted pitch from the NNATE desire to bring forth the and select them for their evenness and species) is not boiled, but after soaking a heavy twig or in the later ones by the as they are as varied as the fancy of the pinon tree (Pinus edulis). This is put product of creative po~er in a lasting smoothness. They are then bound into in cold water is treated in the same man­ addition of wire which is cleverly cov­ weaver dictates. Radiation patterns in on with a brush made of yucca which I form, has resulted in art in one me­ bunches of from fifteen to twenty twigs, ner as the twigs Only the seed pod of ered by the over-casting stitch. Not only which repeated rhythms extend vertically gives a finish lasting and so hard that are the different materials used for dec­ dium or other in every nation. bent in broad rings and slightly boiled this plant is used which makes strips from the center outward seem to be the to make them more easily stripped of only a few inches long, and is used for the jar gives forth a ring when tapped, O!'ative effect, but the squaw often re­ most typical. The zigzag design-inter­ Apache women with nothing-but like that of pottery. sorts to using paint after the basket is preted as lightning-is a popular medium nature-in their lives to satisfy the their bark which is done with the fingers weaving the black designs on the baskets. A bone awl and a sharp rock plus completed This is easily detected be­ of decorations and m a n y baskets craving for beauty, with the urge deep aided by the teeth. They are split with The root of red yucca (Yucca elata) is fingers and teeth were the only tools cause the design does not penetrate to with its variations would lead one to within their souls for self-expression, the teeth and the strips, scraped of all used in some baskets and with its brown­ used until they were supplanted by the the inside. think the Indian women were slightly created an art which will live among pithy substance, are placed in cold water, ish-red color adds variety to their de­ more convenient steel awl and knife partial to this design. The zigzag whirl­ the native arts of primitive peoples. With dried in the sun, tied into bundles and signs. These materials are used in The burden basket hung at the back supplied by the coming of the white ing from the center and extending to the only materials obtainable at hand within stored until needed. The devil's-claw coiled baskets. with the carrying strap across the chest traders. edge is said to convey the idea of light­ easy distance and scant tools; days filled (Martynia, probably the proboscedea Three types of baskets are made, de­ gave the squaw free use of hands and The necessity for some means with ning all arqund the horizon. Zigzag with hard labor, such as carrying water, termined by use for which they are in­ arms in gathering wood principally, but greater carrying power than the arms with oblong figures or squares is light­ providing wood, building tepees, bringing tended. Cradles will be considered, also. also berries and nuts in their season. brought forth the burden basket. Much ning and clouds. forth and caring for children, transport­ These were thrown over the shoulder Before the advent of the white man, more freedom of artistic effect is used ing all burdens, to say nothing of num­ into the basket. It also afforded a . The whorl is often found which depicts baskets were the only household utensils. in its construction. Willow and cotton­ erous household tasks; yet Apache wo­ place for the child after graduating from wind. Coyotes and deer are frequent The water jar was undoubtedly of para­ wood are the materials most often used, men responded to this urge and their its cradle to ride on top of the load, to figures, also men. The deer are easily mount importance to be used for carrying although sumac (Rhus trilobata) and beautiful baskets developed. be out of harm's way and from under distinguishable by the horns. Dogs are SanCarlos and storing water. Necessarily quite a mulberry (Morus sp.) are found in some the mother's feet. a· favorite which can easily be under­ Necessity demanded utensils for house­ bit of ingenuity must be used in its con­ of the finer old specimens. Twigs are stood by a visit to the reservation where hold purposes. These could just as well struction to make it strong and water­ Free rein was given the imagination used for warp in their construction, also, several dogs of varying sizes belong to have been made of easily procured ma­ tight. in the weaving of the coiled, bowl-shaped to form ribs to give strength and often baskets which were intended for many every tepee. Geometric designs a r e terials, without design, of indifferently The squawberry or squaw huckleberry four heavier twigs are crossed at right uses-cooking, mixing, carrying, storage, numerous and among those, one re­ woven stitches and have answered neces­ Apache as it is sometimes called (Vaccineum angles at the bottom and worked 'in with or religious ceremonies and not least sembling the Greek key. The hour-gla~s sity's demand, but art would not have stamineum) is used for this type and the others to add to its durability. These among them-to be sold to add a few is also noted. The cross is quite frequent, evolved. is selected for its toughness. This is twigs are left whole and not split like dollars to the family treasury. Any of but one of their later motifs, probably In purchasing an Apache basket, little called by White Mountain Apache;, the those for the twining. A small piece of the baskets would be sold, but this type introduced into their weaving after the thought is ever given to the labor which "Never break bush." These twigs are twig of larger size is fastened to the was the most frequently offered for sale. coming of the Catholic missiona;ries. has gone into its construction or the Basketry gathered in the spring when the sap is ribs of the basket near the top to allow Intricate and beautiful designs-borrow­ The center of the basket is said to rep­ miles the squaw may have had to trudge running on account of their greater a place for the carrying strap to be ed largely from nature are woven in resent the sun and is expressed by num­ through sand to get her materials. It pliability at that time and which also attached. Several different stitches, with skill and patience. Upon examina­ erous diversifications. Cocks are among was only after the Spaniards entered the renders them more easily stripped of easily discernable can be seen upon ex­ tion of different collections of baskets their decorative figures and a spider country that she might have been for­ their bark. These are used for warp as ** amining a specimen. A stitch for the it is observed there is no limit to the was used on a very lovely old basket tunate enough to have a pony at her well as serving for the twining. Decora­ decorative horizontal stripes may be dif­ possibilities of their decorations and no which the weaver called the spider basket. disposal. Selecting materials for their A Vanishing Art tion or special neatness is not attempted ferent to the one employed in the body two are ever alike. A recent one had a composition of three durability and working with precision in their weaving on account of the hard of the basket. The fiber of the yucca It is difficult to group these designs butterflies which produced a very beau­ their baskets rank high in the artistry usage they will receive. Handle~ are root and the devil's-claw g-ive a variety tiful effect. Letters of the alphabet are of all Indian tribes. * * woven in, through. which a rawhide thong of color which, together with the change noted. Great care is exercised in selection may be passed to permit the jar to be of stitch, adds much to the artistic After the completion of the railroad and preparation of materials. Squaws By more easily carried or in later years a effect. Buckskin fringe is also used for it was not long until a circus made its gather willow ( Salix lassiandra and ne­ piece of cloth or ticking-when they decoration with a patch of it stitched way to this district which left its in­ gra, both species used) and cottonwood could get it-has taken the place of raw­ over the bottom of the basket, surrounded fluence as camels and groups of men (Popular fremontii) shoots in the winter AdelaideWilliamson hide. When completed, the jar receives by more fringe. The top is finished by (Turn to Page 31)

12 ARIZONA HIGHWAYS AUGUST, 1939 13 HE little Navajo girl, gazing so pensively from the op­ posite page, lives with her mother and father on the T Navajo Indian reservation in northeastern Arizona. Her life is full of gay laughter and sunshine, of bright dolls and trinkets and there are always surprises, which she

greets with large, dark eyes. She is among the blessed (( (( (( of the little children on earth. Her mother and father are kind to her, and by them she is sheltered from the wind, the rain and from whatever buffets the elements may bring. For generations her people have been nomads, and PORTRAIT IN SWEETNESS hers will be a life of wandering the expanse of sand and by hills and deep ravines that make up the 16,000,000 acres of Navajo Nation. MILTON SNOW Some of her forefathers fought the coming of the White of Man, and some of their blood was shed betwe0n the grim walls of Canyon de Chelly, when Kit Carson came with the Window Rock, Arizona soldiers and vanquished the Navajos forever. Now her people are peaceful, living on the reservation under supervision of the men in Washington, but while she is too young to realize it, her father and others of his race govern themselves, and as she grows into woman­ hood for her, too, will be freedom and the right to live by her own choice. Her gods will be the gods of her people, the primitive gods of the Navajos. The gods will show their fury during the long periods of drought, when her father's sheep will die. They will show their fury when the cold winds and the snows sweep across the barren wastes of her land in the winter; but they will smile on her when the rains come and her country glows in the beauty of spring. There will be tears in her life and sickness and sorrow, but so there is for all peoples on earth. There will also be laughter and merriment and her eyes will sparkle with the joy of living. Happiness, too, is for all peoples on earth. There will be hard work in her life if she follows the manner of her people. Flocks to tend, sheep to shear, wool to be carded, blankets and rugs to be woven. If some young Indian comes and claims her for his bride the:re will be a family to watch over and the 1 wrinkles will come from the wind and hard work and Youth's beauty will fade too soon. Or she may tum to her teachings in school and like some of her sisters, follow not her people's ways, but the ways of the white girl. There is for her an opportunity to teach, to nurse, to follow many professions. And as ::;he grows into young womanhood her life will be always tom by this conflict. To worship her people's gods, to live their way, observe their customs or to tum to the ways of the white girl and be liberated from age-old tradition! That is, indeed, a question to trouble a pretty little head! It would be interesting to watch her life, see all the chaplers unfold-­ happiness and sorrow, tears and laughter, toil and rest, want and plenty, conflict and peace-all the chapters that come to every life on earth from the cradle to the grave. But now she is just a little Navajo girl, playing with her dolls-as simple and real and primitive and fresh as the hills and deserts and canyons and winds and sunshine of her father's land .... R.C.

AUGUST, 1939 15 Canyons in the Distance

~•r'f'!....,_ . r -l". ~ I~ ....,:.;..~. ~ ~- ~l- ..

BLUE CANYON COAL CANYON BY BY NORMAN G. WALLACE BARRY GOLDWATER

Arizona is the land of canyons! this canyon, primitive, wild, remote! No paved road leads to their brink, formations that abound in its spires You've heard about Grand Canyon, There are other canyons for the more no easy trails exist to carry the traveler and temples of sandstone. Oak Creek Canyon, Canyon de Chelly, venturesome traveler to seek, canyons into their depths. Yet the pleasure These two canyons are in the mys­ Walnut Canyon, the Canyon of the that offer the thrill of discovery-so of seeing them is well worth the terious land of the Navajos! The Salt River, the mighty canyons of the little are they known! trouble. Painted Desert sweeps from the sides Chiricahuas and the Blues, those deep Near Tuba City are two canyons, Coal canyon and Blue canyon rep­ of these canyons and in all this utterly canyons of the Superstition Mountains whose color and formation leave an resent two of the most fantastic forma­ unreal color hodge-podge they seem and the Apache Trail! ineffaceable impression on the spec­ tions in the state. Coal canyon got as if they were the pots where the But have you ever heard of Syca­ tator. its name from the fact a layer of coal multi-hued shades of blue and reds and more canyon, south of Williams? They are Coal Canyon and Blue forms one of its innumerable rings, and grays were mixed to paint the whole Only a handful of people have been in canyon. Blue canyon is named from the bluish region.

ARIZONA HIGHWAYS 16 AUGUST, 1939 17 i

.... ,_;;_,·... ' 4',f~ ....

"10 P. M." MORMON LAKE 25 MILES SOUTH OF FLAGSTAFF BY JAS. R. WILSON Q. ~ - ~- ~

II

THE GREAT AMERICAN DESERT HAS ALWAYS USED THE TECHNIQUE THAT WAS BEST SUITED TO ~K THOU FOR PLEASURE; PAINT OR SING OR CARVE BEEN A SOURCE OF NEVER - ENDIN'G INTEREST. THE SUBJECT. HIS ABILITY TO USE ANY TECH- THE THING THOU LOVEST, THOUGH THE BODY STARVE. ARTISTS BECOME INSPIRED 'TO REPRODUCE ITS NIQUE OF ETCH,ING WITH PERFECTION IS PROB­ MYRIAD OF COLORS AND BREATH-TAKING VAST­ ABLY DUE TO THE FACT ·THAT NOT BEING ACADE­ WHO WORKS FOR GLORY MISSES OFT THE GOAL; NESS, BUT FEW H,AVE HAD THE DEPTH OF PERCEP­ MIC HE NEVER BECAME ATTACHED TO ANY SCHOOL TION AND APPRECIATION TO SUCCEED IN DOING OR STYLE OF WORKMANSHIP. FURTHERMORE, WHO WORKS FOR MONEY COINS HIS VERY SOUL. MORE THAN MERELY SCRATCHING THE SURFACE. HIS PERSONALITY IS SUCH THAT PERFECTION IN

IT HAS LONG BEEN THE BELIEF THAT TO POR­ ANY ACT IS AN ABSOLUTE NECESSl'TY AND A JOB WORK THOU FOR WORK'S SAKE, AND IT MAY BE, TRAY THE DESERT ONE MUST ATTEMPT TOPOR- NOT WE.LL DONE IS NOT DONE AT ALL.

THAT THESE THINGS SHALL BE ADDED UNTO THEE." TRAY THE COLORS. THROUGH THE MEDIUM OF IN THE JUDGING OF ART, ONE OF THE MOST IM­ ETCHING GEORGE ELBERT BURR HAS GIVEN TO PORTANT QUESTIONS IS, "HAS 'THE ARTIST DONE THE WORLD WHAT IS SO FAR THE TRUEST AND WHAT HE WANTED TO AND HAS HE DONE IT MOST COMPLETE PICTURE OF THE AMERICAN DES­ WELL?" THERE CAN BE NO DOUBT THAT MR. ~~g~eJJe,;tBU,ff'.J,~~) ERT, AND HE HAS SHOWN THAT THE DESERT'S BURR HAS DONE EXACTLY WHAT HE WANTED TO LANGUAGE IS ONE OF IMPRESSIONS AND IMAGINA- DO AND HAS DONE l'T EXCEEDINGLY WELL. ARTHUR TION RATHER THAN COLOR. IN HIS ETCHINGS MILLIER ONCE SAID, "PERHAPS THE MOST SIGNI­ ARE TO BE FOUND ALL THE MOODS AND MANNERS FICANT SECRET OF HIS SUCCESSFUL CAREER LIES ~ OF THE SOUTHWEST. IN HIS ATTITUD,E TOWARD NATURE AND AR'T. HE ONE OF THE REASONS FOR HIS GREATNESS IS HAS TREATED REVERENTLY THE WORKS OF THE THAT THE IDEA OR IMPRESSION IS OF PRIMARY IM­ CREATOR, ALWAYS TRYING TO EXTRACT FROM PORTANCE WITH THE TECHNIQUE IN SECONDARY THEM THE LINES AND FORMS THAT REVEAL NATURE'S PLACE. IN OTHER WORDS. HE HAS ALWAYS LOGICAL AND BEAUTIFUL DESIGNING. IN ART HE ~~. ,~'c,.oL,, ~-~-A>½-

AIMED, NOT TO PLEASE ARTISTS, BUT TO REVEAL THIS ALWAYS LOGICAL BEAUTY OF NATURE TO THE TIST'S JOY AND FEELING FOR HIS SUBJECT BECOMES BUT A DRY ACADEMIC DRAWING OF A PLACE OR THING." PUBLIC ... TREES AND CLOUDS UNITE HEAVEN AND EARTH AND IT IS OF THIS POETIC UNION THAT MR. BURR'S CHILDHOOD WAS SPENT IN OHIO AND MISSOURI, AND IT WAS THERE TH.AT HE FIRST BE.GAN BURR'S BEST PLATES SPEAK TO US." TO DRAW TREES, CLOUDS AND THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE. THIS WAS TH.E INSPIRATION FOR SOME OF HIS WINTER SCENES, MANY OF WHICH ARE RANKED AMONG HIS FINEST ETCHINGS. AS HAS BEEN SAID BEFORE, MR. BURR DOES NOT LIMIT HIMSELF TO PURE ETCHING. HE EXPLAINED THIS WHEN HE SAID, "I FEEL EACH THING IN A DIFFERENT METHOD. IF I THINK OF A DEEP TONED WHEN A YOUNG MAN HE FOLLOWED THE ADVICE OF HARPERS AND SCRIBNERS AND. WITH MRS. BURR, WENT TO NEW YORK. HE HAD REALIZED BY THIS TIME THAT TO SUCCEED AS AN ETCHER HE NEEDED EVENING CLOUD WITH FULL RICH TONES, I ONLY SEE IT IN WATER COLOR, OR IF IN ETCHING, AS AN ADDITIONAL TRAINING AND .EXPERIENCE IN LINE DRAWING. HE BECAME ASSOCIATED WITH FRANK AQUA TINT. IF THE CHIEF CHARM IS FORM, THEN LINE, AS SIMPLE AS POSSIBLE SEEMS THE WAY TO LESLIE'S WEEKLY AND WAS WITH THEM AS AN ILLUSTRATOR FOR A NUMBER OF YEARS, WHICH NECESSI- EXPRESS IT. SOME RICH OLD TREE (I MEAN FULL OF BLACKS) I ONLY THINK CAN BE RENDER.ED BY CUT- TATED HIS TRAVELING ALL OVER THE COUNTRY, 'COVERING' THE LEADING EVENTS OF 'THE DAY. TING DEEP SLASHES WITH A SHARP DRY POINT. SOME VERY DELICATE DIS'TANCE OR FLEECY CLOUD, I THIS WOULD RENDER WITH LINES BARELY SCRATCHED ON THE COPPER WITH A FINE SEWING NEEDLE.. A GAVE HIM AN EVEN MORE THOROUGH KNOWLEDGE OF THE AMERICAN LANDSCAPE. SUBJECT THAT HAS ACTION. MOVEMENT OR THAT I WANT TO FIX ON THE COPPER IN A FEW MINUTES HIS FIRST INTRODUCTION TO THE WEST CAME WHILE HE WAS WITH PRESIDENT .HARRISON'S PARTY ON IN THE HEAT OF EXCITEMENT, I WOULD DO WITH A PENCIL ON SOFT GROUND . . . . OF COURSE I SOME- HIS PRESIDENTIAL TOUR. IT WAS THEN THAT HE MADE HIS FIRST SKETCHES OF THE. DESERT.

TIMES COMBINE ETCHING OR SOFT GROUND WITH AQUATINT. I TRY (NOT ALWAYS SUCCESSFULLY) TO SOON AFTER PRESIDENT HARRJSON'S TRIP A GREAT OPPORTUNITY WAS PRESENTED TO MR. BURR. GET MY EMOTION ON THE COPPER AT ONCE, FOR AN ETCHING WITHOUT CONVEYING SOMETHING OF THE AR- HEBER R. BISHOP COMMISSIONED HIM TO MAKE ILLUSTRATIONS FOR THE CATALOGUE OF HIS ORIENTAL -~~-

COMPLETE "DESERT. SET" NOT TO BE FOUND IN AMERICAN ETCHER SERIES". THE VOLUMES WERE COLLECTIONS. HIS JADE COLLECTION, WHICH HE AS A FOCAL POINT MR. BURR BEGAN TO MAKE SOME PRIVATE COLLECTION IS A GREAT RARITY DEVOTED EXCLUSIVELY TO THE TWELVE MEN WHO GAVE TO THE METROPOLITAN MUSUEM. WA_S CON­ SKETCH.ING TRIPS OVER THE SOUTHWEST. HE TODAY. WERE CONSIDERED THE FINEST ETCHERS IN THE

SIDERED TO BE UNEQUALLED ANYWHERE IN QUAL- RARELY EVER STAYED ON THE BEATEN PATH, AND THE "DESERT SET" ONLY PROVED TO BE AN UNITED STATES. VOL. VII BELONGED TO MR. ITY AND BEAUTY. MR. BURR WAS OVER FOUR HIS DRAWINGS AND SUBSEQUENT ETCHINGS WERE ADDED INCENTIVE TO PRODUCE MORE DESERT BURR AND IN IT WERE REPRODUCTIONS OF TWELVE YEARS IN COMPLETING THIS TASK. THESE DRAW- OF SCENES FAMILIAR ONLY TO THE DESERT HABI- ETCHINGS. OF THESE, "SUPERSTITION MOUN- OF HIS LEADING ETCHINGS. INGS, NUMBERING OVER A THOUSAND, ARE CON­ TUE. IN 1924 MR. AND MRS. BURR CAME TO TAIN. NIGHT" IS PERHAPS MR. BURR'S MOST AMONG THE ETCHINGS THAT ARE INCLUDED IN SIDERED THE FINEST THINGS OF THEIR KIND. PHOENIX AND MADE IT THEIR PERMANENT RESI­ FAMOUS ETCHING, SINCE IT HAS BEEN THE RE­ THE AMERICAN ETCHER SERIES 15 THE FAMOUS DENCE. U.PON THE COMPLETION OF THIS CATALOGUE CIPIENT OF ALMOST ALL OF THE HIGHEST PRINT ETCHING, "A MIRAGE". IN A REVIEW OF IT THE MR. AND MRS. BURR WENT TO EUROPE AND SPENT THE INTEREST THAT HAD BEEN AROUSED YEARS AWARDS. WILL SIMMONS HAS DESCRIBED IT PHILADELPHIA ENQUIRER SAID, "MODERN AMERI­ SEVERAL YEARS WANDERING FROM ONE COUNTRY BEFORE IN THE MANY TYPES OF DESERT TO BE THUS, "IT GOES BEYOND THE EXPECTED NATURAL CAN ART HAS PRODUCED NO MORE PERFECT THING TO ANOTHER, WITH MR. BURR SKETCHING AS THEY FOUND IN THIS COUNTRY WAS CONSTANTLY GROW- CHARM. THE WORDS OF TENNYSON, 'THE SPLEN- THAN BURR'S MIRAGE, TREMBLING, HALF-REAL, WENT. DURING THE TIME THAT HE WAS WITH ING. IT FINALLY EVOLVED ITSELF INTO A DETER- DOR FALLS ON CASTLE WALLS', COME INTO MIND, HALF-SENSED, LIKE MACBETH'S DAGGER - BEFORE FRANK LESLIE'S HE GAINED CONSIDERABLE RE­ MINATION ON MR. BURR'S PART TO MAKE A SET YET THERE 15 NO CASTLE, NOTHING BUT DESERT, EYES CAJOLED, DECEIVED AND DELIGHTED." AND PUTE AS A WATER-COLOR ARTIST, AND THIS REPU­ OF ETCHINGS WHICH WOULD PORTRAY AS NEARLY IN A HALF LIGHT WHEN THE SQUARE-SHOULDERED WILL SIMMONS CALLED IT "A WEIRD TRUTH SET TATION WAS ENHANCED UPON HIS RETURN FOR HE AS POSSIBLE THE DESERT OF THE SOUTHWEST. MOUNTAIN, THE ROUGH PLAIN AND THE SOLDIER OFF AGAINST A VAGUE PROMISE." BROUGHT BACK WITH HIM A NUMBER OF WATER IT WAS TO BE THE PICTURE OF THE GREAT SAND CACTI RISING HERE AND TH.ERE, ALL ARE SUB­ GEORGE ELBERT BURR HAS NEVER SOUGHT RE­ COLORS WHICH MET WITH IMMEDIATE ACCLAIM. DUED; THE SPLENDOR FALLS ENclRELY ON THE DUNES OF CALIFORNIA AND NEW MEXICO, THE MO­ COGNITION OR FAME, HENCE IT HAS COME TO HIM. BIG CLOUD PILED HIGH ABOVE THEM. THAT MOUN- THE BURRS THEN REMAINED IN THE EAST FOR JAVE DESERT AND DEATH VALLEY, THE DESERT OF HE RARELY EXHIBITED IN THE LARGE SHOWS AND SAGEBRUSH AND CACTI. TAIN WAS APTLY NAMED. ALL IS MYSTERY, FULL SEVERAL YEARS, LIVING NEAR THE TOMS RIVER IN IN SHORT. EVERY MEM- NEVER SOUGHT AWARDS. WHILE THE PRIZES HE OF PORTENTS - THOSE WIZARD CACTI IN A HAUNT­ NEW JERSEY. WHILE HE NEVER GAVE UP HIS WORK BER OF THE DESERT FAMILY IN ITS VARIED MOODS HAS WON ARE MANY AND OF THE Hl'GHEST IN THE WAS TO BE PRESENTED. ED PLAIN, AGAINST THE ENCHANTED CLIFFS, WITH IN THE OTHER MEDIUMS IT WAS AT THIS TIME HE WORLD OF ART, HE NEVER REFERS 'TO THEM AND THAT GREAT PILE OF GLORY - A VAGUE PROMISE BEGAN HIS WORK IN EARNESTWITH ETCHING. THESE THIS "DESERT SET" PROVED TO BE A COLLECT­ THEY ARE NEVER LISTED IN ANY OF THE ARTICLES OF ETERNITY, OVERHEAD." ETCHINGS WERE MOSTLY DRAWINGS MADE FROM ION OF 35 ETCHINGS. OF WHICH THERE WERE PERTAINING TO HIM. ALMOST EVERY LEADING HIS EUROPEAN SKETCHES AND EASTERN SCENES. ONLY 40 SETS. BEFORE ITS COMPLETION ALMOST IN 1930 THE CRAFTON COLLECTION PUBLISHED MUSEUM, LIBRARY OR ART COLLECTION IN THE THEY LATER MOVED TO DENVER AND WITH THAT THE ENTIRE EDITION HAD BEEN RESERVED AND A A SERIES OF TWELVE VOLUMES•'·:ENTITLED "THE WORLD OWNS AT LEAST ONE OF HIS ETCHINGS, "SANDSTORM IS COMING" &-r--,2....._,_-~-,.,,.;.,~- NORTH EAST ARIZONA, JUST OUT OF CANYON DE CHELLY BY JAS R. WILSON

AND THERE ARE FEW OF THESE WHO DO NOT HAVE MR. BURR'S STRENGTH AND COURAGE IN DOING OR ARE NOT MAKING COLLECTIONS OF HIS PRINTS. AS HE WANTED TO ALL THESE YEARS AND REACH· IN FACT, THIRTY OF THE LEADING MUSEUMS HAVE ING THE PINNACLE OF SUCCESS DESPITE THE FACT HAD PURCHASED FOR THEM OVER A "THOUSAND OF THAT ALL OF HIS LIFE HE HAS SOUGHT HEALTH, HIS ETCHINGS. THE NEW YORK LIBRARY AND THE HIS NEVER-FAILING OPTIMISM AND HIS DEEP AP· BRITISH MUSEUM, IN PARTICULAR, HAVE EXCEP· PRECIATION FOR A WORLD THAT, AS HE SAYS, TIONALLY LARGE COLLECTIONS. THE NEW YORK "HAS ALWAYS BEEN KIND TO HIM" IS A SOURCE OF LIBARY COLLECTION, INCIDENTALLY, IS PERHAPS GREAT INSPIRATION FOR THOSE WHO HAVE HAD THE MOST COMPLETE IN EXISTENCE. THE PRIVILEGE OF KNOWING HIM. the south were the Chiricahua, commonly Dave Peter was but one of many early called the Cherry Cow, the Vail Brothers' ranchmen whose persistency and belief Arizona,s Empire Ranch, the Babocomari Com­ in cattle as a business carried them pany, and Colonel Billy Greene's . . . . through one of the worst periods of Ari­ Cattle Industry all of which ran not less than 20,000 head zona cattle history. They saw feast and of cows and some more than 60,000. The famine . . . . drought and rainfall . . . . ( Continued from Page 5) old Hashknife outfit also ran more th::m prices that ranged from $14.00 to $55.00 60,000 head in the country between Hol­ per head .... but in the end that old brook and Flagstaff. range cow brought most of them out on About 1868 the government had so After the development of the big com­ top. many soldiers scattered over Arizona pany outfits, rustling broke out again. With the buildh1g of the Southern Pa­ that the demand for beef to supply the This time the Arizona Territorial Legis­ cific and the Santa Fe (Atlantic and army forts had greatly increased. It was lature authorized the organization of a Pacific route), the grass ranges were probably due to this imperative need for body of Rangers. This group, under rapidly taken up, then the rough, brushy Ed Koontz, Gene Tunney and the beef that one of the most resourceful the leadership of Burton C. Mossman, country, even in remote parts of the who had been foreman of the Hashknife, author at the old Dumbell Ranch men ever to live in the state became west of Prescott, Arizona. state, and the number of small outfits established in the cattle business. soon drove the rustlers out of the state. increased amazingly. But the ranches weren't all owned That man was Henry C. Hooker. He finally decided that he was beaten, But there was something else afoot by big companies. Adventurous men He had gone broke in California in left his ranch, and came to Phoenix hop­ that was to affect the cow business ser­ from as far east as Chicago had follow­ 1853 but made a stake driving a large ing to secure a job with the immigration iously besides the railroad. Just before ed the great pastoral movement west bunch of turkeys from the coast state service. the turn of the century certain areas A group of real old time Arizona cowboys on the Yolo Ranch west of Prescott, 1918. into Colorado and moved small herds to Carson City,· Nevada, where th~y were designated by the President as into Arizona .... developing good-sized But at last the rains came and Peter brought a fabulous price. Hooker the11 Forest Reserves. By 1897 orders came outfits. hurried back to his ranch to gather the came to Arizona with a man who had a horns . . . .descendants of the early mares of quality and six pure bred stal­ from Washington that each grazer must Typical of the patient, resourceful remnant of his herd and start again. He contract to supply General Banning with Spanish cattle and built for speed rather lions. His cowboys rode the best saddle procure a permit covering every head ranchmen who established herds after bought 250 cows at $55.00 per head to beef for the army. than for beef. In fact, all the cattle stock in the Southwest. Hooker even of stock grazing on the Reserves. 1880, was the late Dave J. Peter, Sr., begin to restock his range. From these From 1868 to 1870, under Hooker's on Arizona ranges at that time were had milk cows on his ranch . . . . an and what he could gather in his own Finally, in 1905, came the announce­ rangy, nervous, and decidedly vicious unheard of thing in the early days and whom I had the pleasure of knowing management, the entire army stationed after his retirement to Phoenix. Peter iron he rebuilt his herd: ment that the government was going to when scared. in some localities at the present time. in Arizona was supplied with beef. Dur­ trailed with his uncle, George T. Peter, At the time he sold his outfit in 1908 charge for the live stock using the for­ ing the year of 1872 he furnished the After getting his ranch well-developed, What is now Cochise County appears a man of considerable means and intel­ he guaranteed the purchasers 7500 est areas. While there was a great deal government with more than 15,000 head Hooker introduced some of the first well­ to have presented the most opportunities ligence, from northeastern Colorado into head, which was bought at $14.00 per of discontentment at first, the more of cattle. Most of these were bought bred shorthorns. Later he brought in to the early cowmen for the broad grass Utah in search of new range. head. But when the complete round-up level-headed of the stockmen realized the in Texas and Mexico and moved in trail Herefords which proved to be more able valleys of San Simon, San Pedro, and They left Utah with a herd of about of his stock was accomplished, he had importance and wiseness of restricting herds into the state . . . . these herds to shift for themselves, besides killing Sulphur Springs were very inviting to 600, mostly cows, and began the long over 12,000 head in all .... 7500 of grazing. At first, most of the grazing sometimes numbered 4,000. out more good beef per head than any honest, hard-working ranchers. There drive into Arizona in 1883. Northeast­ which were steers. A son of Dave, men of the Forest Service were well It was on one of these drives that other type. were some not so honest, of course, and ern Arizona was pretty well taken up, George T. Peter, named for the uncle, known local men who knew the west Hooker discovered the site he was later Hooker paid large sums for pure bred these too found that the canyons, arro­ for the Atlantic and Pacific Railway upholds the tradition of the family by and the livestock business. to make famous. In following a stam­ bulls in Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri, and yos, and hills of Cochise were good places had been pushed through that territory being one of the leading ranchmen and This assistance to the stockmen has pede of cattle looking for water, Hooker moved them to his ranch. These he to hide stolen stock until they could be a few years before and the surrounding cattle feeders in the state today. no doubt speeded the development of came upon a spring and cienaga (marsh) crossed with natives and in a few years disposed of. country had been rapidly homesteaded. the cattle industry into a real business. in the Sulphur Spring Valley which he all his cattle were white-faced, round­ At first, most of the rustling was done So the Peters moved on into more rug­ Other changes quickly followed. afterward homesteaded and developed bodied, and straight-backed. in old Mexico, where, with the aid of a ged ranges of central Arizona. Finally, The most noticeable of these was caused into the beautiful Sierra-Bonita hacienda. Soon stock from the Hooker ranch was rifle and a little ingenuity, there were at the fork of the Salt and the Tonto by barbed wire for with the fences came His range was almost unlimited and at in demand all over the state as other plenty of cattle to be had. Before long Rivers, in what is now the bottom of the end of the old pool wagon around one time he was said to control about ranchmen were anxious to secure good many Mexican cattle began appearing Roosevelt Lake, they found a suitable which several outfits gathered with their 800 square miles. bulls to improve their herds. in southern Arizona from apparently' location for a headquarters ranch. Here cowboys and worked cattle for hundreds Hooker's first herd consisted of about Besides cattle, Henry Hooker had a unknown sources. the Three Bar outfit was started. of miles. These round-up-wagons, in Among the notorious early cowmen 11,000 common Texas and Mexican long- fine stable. At one time he had 500 George Peter and· his nephew, Dave, which all the better outfits shared the who made blood and thunder history for were good cowmen . . . . they worked expense, started out in the spring and Arizona were such men as Irving Hunt, hard to improve the ranch, kept their returned in the fall. Billy Grounds, Billy Leonard, Pete calves branded, trailed their steers to When these "chuck wagons" ceased Spence, John Ringo, Curley Bill, Jim 'Holbrook, which was then near the rail­ to rattle over the malapai mesas, a race Crane, and many others. Besides fre­ road, and sold them to northern buyers. of kings·, the cattle barons who rose and quenting Mexico, these men pepped up When the uncle died, the ranch was left reigned for sixty years, was dead. their activities with hold-ups and stage to young Dave who, over a period of coach robberies. When Mexico made it Although there are many big ranges years, built the outfit into several thou­ too hot for them because of cattle rust­ in Arizona today that are not stocked, sand head. ling, they turned to the Arizona ranch­ still there are approximately as many Then came the drought in the early men. After that, none of them lasted cattle on Arizona ranges now as ever '90's. Like the droughts of Biblical very long and they all crossed the Big before, except perhaps in the early times, there was simply no water. The Divide in violent action. The Earps '90's and at the close of the World Tonto went dry .... the Salt River did accounted for one, the Apaches overtook War. likewise. For several years no rain Hunt, the Mexicans got Crane, Leonard fell and cattle died from starvation and In 1883 there was estimated to be was shot for a reward .... all of which thirst. Desperately Dave Peter tried to 145,000 cattle in the state. Ten years is a story in itself. later the number had advanced to 800,000 save his dying herd. He and his men By the early '80's there had developed -the hey-day of early cattle industry. trimmend the cottonwoods so the starving a number of large cattle ranches in Today about 900,000 head roam the Arizona. Ranchmen who came into cattle could eat the leaves. In one can­ Morton Nall, a typical Arizona Arizona ranges. Cochise County about 1880 were Bran­ yon alone he counted the carcasses of ranchman. At seventy years of age The cattle business follows a continu­ nick Riggs, the Munk brothers, Rock­ 400 animals. The dead cattle were skin­ he still manages a ranch of more Roundup on the Quarter Circle V Bar Ranch. A combination cattle ranch and ous movement of pioneering. Men from guest ranch. The boys on the left have come to meet the day herd. fellow. Very large cattle holdings in ned and the hides sold for $1.25 apiece. than five hundred head of cattle.

28 ARIZONA HIGHWAYS AU.GUST, 1939 29 the east, north, and south, who have baskets but were made chiefly for sale. ing has almost disappeared from the caught the spirit of the West, are still There are two very outstandingly large reservation. Children being taken from discovering Arizona, are buying the old San Carlos specimens of this type in Globe, one of their homes at an early age to be placed ranges whose history lies untold forever, them measuring thirty-nine inches high in boarding schools is largely responsible and are becoming real Arizona cowmen. Apache Basketry and one hundred seven inches around. and also-supplanted by modern utensils During the last 10 years, hundreds Cradles might be classed with their -baskets are no longer required for of old outfits have been bought with ( Continued from Page 13) baskets, because weaving is used in their household necessities. Many of the old eastern capital. This modern pioneer construction. The bottom is made of squaws who were adepts in their art seems to follow the trail of the early heavy splints made smooth. These are have become blind, or nearly so and frontiersman. He first stopped in Co­ fastened to a heavy twig, which is bent others have lost their teeth-a very in­ arranged in pyramidal form were late1· in the desired shape. A hood is woven dispensable tool; two very vital reasons chise County and fanned north from noticed on the baskets offered for sale there. Those who dude camped in Wy­ at the top to protect the baby from the why Apache baskets are not being sold. on the streets of Globe. sun over which-in these modern days­ oming and Colorado are gradually taking The government is trying to prevent The Indian women insist there is no a mosquito netting is draped. The cradle over Yavapai and Coconino Counties, the art from vanishing completely from story or mythological representation on is lined with soft material and the pa­ stocking the ranges with fine cattle and the San Carlos Apaches by introducing the baskets. Whether this is true or poose is laced in. A rawhide strap is horses, building beautiful homes, and basket weaving into the schools and they are reticent about telling strangers fastened to the back of the cradle so it running their ranches as businesses. classes are regularly conducted. It is to what might be sacrc.d to them is a con­ can be hung at the mother's back, the But there is another very important be hoped that this incentive will prove jecture. Many interested in the art pre­ strap passing around her forhead, hung phase of the modern cow 1:msiness in fer to think they have some deep signifi­ effective for restoring an art in which from the horn of the saddle, or from the Arizona (and about which the old cance. Apache women had become so proficient. convenient bough of a tree where the timer knew little) which has rapidly Necessity creates that which is useful but From the number of designs represent­ dancing of the leaves affords amusement grown into a big industry. That de­ only craving for self-expression brings ing the elements, one might almost judge for the baby while the mother is about velopment is in feeding cattle on an ex­ they had been used as a prayer for rain. her work. forth that which is artistic. tensive basis in the lush, irrigated val­ In this dry land of sunshine, where rain It is being watched with interest what leys of the state. Lincoln Ellsworth, the Arctic explorer, and Jim Kintner start for the fall roundup is so vital to all forms of life, that would In former generations, little girls be­ effect one generation of women not be­ on a northern Arizona ranch. gan basket weaving at six, being taught Since about 1934 pen feeding of cattle have been the natural thing. Designs ing able to weave the baskets will have in Arizona has increased from a few handed down from mother to daughter by the mother or grandmother and had upon the _succeeding generation. Will of cattle were pen fed in Pima, Graham, bution as some of the cattle were shipped thousand head to 117,000 head for the for so many generations have undoubted­ become quite expert by the time they they return to the art of their grand­ Pinal, Yuma, and Maricopa Counties. as far east as Indiana. That same year, year of 1938. Because of the low cost ly lost much of their original meaning. were grown. mothers or produce something new and In 1938 pen fed cattle numbered 111,000, 1938, an additional 120,933 were slaugh­ of cotton seed meal, barley, and hegari, tered within Arizona packing houses. The coiled ollas were used for storage It is very regrettable that basket weav- entirely their own? • and because these concentrates are easily an increase of 66,000 head over a five­ year period. Although cattle feeding on an inten­ raised in the irrigated portions of the sive basis is a relative new industry in state, concentrated feeding quickly be­ At first most of the cattle that had Arizona, yet Phoenix can boast of the came popular. been fattened in pens were shipped to largest feed yards in the United States. During August and September thou­ California. This was also true of stock These are owned by the Tovrea Packing sands of cattle are bought on local ranges, shipped directly from the ranges to Company which can feed 40,000 head of taken to valleys (principally the Salt market. In the year of 1934, 228,243 cattle at one time. Not so long ago, River Valley) for feeding in pens, and head of range and pen fed cattle were 32,000 head nosed up to the troughs in moved on to market in the winter and experted. Five years later this figure the Tovrea feed yards. spring months. In 1934, 45,000 head reached 367,391, with a far wider distri- The major portion of pasture to p1m feeding is located in the Salt River Val­ ley with the Gill Brothers, Thompson & Welburn, Ray Codwen, Lakin & Peter, George Taylor, Kemper Marley and many others while in Yuma the California Land and Cattle Company, in Tucson Jack Kinney, in Florence the Clemens Cattle Company and others of impor­ tance may be found in other parts of the state. All in all, the cattle industry in Ari­ zcma today is more interesting than ever for it is a versatile business whether it be running on the range or keeping them busy at a feed trough. It is a good, re­ liable business over a period of years and a tribute is due that old range cow who is the greatest manufacturing plant in the world and who can be depended on to pay real, live dividends with re~­ ularity. For though but "yesterday the Texas steer was an adventure; today the Hereford is a business, the management of which has been worked out as care­ fully as that of any manufacturing Jerome-the picturesque city on a mountain side.· plant." • Far down yonder is the city of Clifton, between high cliffs. 30 ARIZONA HIGHWAYS AUGUST, 1939 31 bark. The trees in nearly all groves are square miles. There are also some very free of twigs and leaves up to a certain peculiar so-called lakes which are very "Mountain height just as if they had been trimmed interesting. These lakes are really some that way. This is due to the fact that kind of a natural sink-hole which fills Lying Down" every year in the springtime the deer with water from the summer rains and loosen the velvet from their horns by winter snow. Some are very deep and ( Continued from Page 7) rubbing against these trees. An old although they have neither inlet nor out­ legend says that they are the nursemaids let of living water, they stay fairly clear of the pines, protecting them when young, and are -filled with tules, cat-tails and enriching the soil with their leaf-mold, beautiful water lilies. They are nearly clouds :massing for battle-pouring tor­ and finally dying out to give them their always surrounded by an old-fashioned rential rain and hurling sharp-fanged places. In the fall when Jack Frost re­ rail fence making a lovely picture against lightning on the defenseless mesas. Ter­ paints the forest, there will be whole the background of dark forest. In the ror and sublimity combined and where trees of golden yellow leaves,-a beau­ evenings should one build a campfire else can one view this at such close tiful sight against the bright red of the near the shore, salamanders and water­ range? It is said that Arizona has more maples and the sombre green of the dogs may come creeping out of the water rivers and less water, more cows and less pines. and into the ashes, giving one a sort milk, that you can see farther and see The cloud effects in this region are of "this is the forest primeval" feeling. less than in any other state in the union. strikingly beautiful, especially in mid-­ In many places all over the mountain But anyone sight-seeing from the van­ summer. This is probably caused by the is evidence that some prehistoric race tage points of the Kaibab will never ad­ warm air which rises out of the Canyon, once lived there. One can find the ruins mit the latter even if he reluctantly con­ of cliff-dwellings in the ledges, great strikes the cold air of the high altitudes ~ -~~.; i,~,io;"'--::7..:,'i: ~ cede the former. and condenses its moisture. But what­ mounds of blackened rocks where the mescal was ·baked, fragments of pottery The Kaibab Forest is made up of mag­ ever the cause these clouds are not "emp­ and arrowheads and even corn cobs so ·.l""&,a.i:'~.:~~~:~.:~:i~.-::~:...... nificent clear timber of yellow pine, ties," because there are plenty summer primitive that they boast only four rows spruce and fir, majestic trees four to rains and very deep winter snows, thus A view of Vermilion Cliffs from U.S. Highway 89. of kernels. five feet through and some of them at keeping the Kaibab well watered. Looking down an Arizona highway. Locally the Kaibab is known as the least five hundred years old-the largest There are several springs distributed mountain lion or cougar. Although one front of his cabin read-"Cougars caught Buckskin Mountains, and rightly so for standing forest of uncut timber now left aspens. These aspen trees are a very around the mountain making ideal camp­ is very seldom privileged to see a lion to order," and it was just about thP the herd of mule deer there is variously in its native · haunts unless treed by in the United States! It is unusually interesting feature of the forest and ing spots-so different from the south truth, for Uncle Jim had to his credit estimated from fifteen to thirty thousand hounds, yet ample evidence of their pre­ the extinction of over eleven hundred clear of underbrush, but interspersed grow to unusual size there, with their rim in this respect where there is little with groves of young pine and quaking ever-fluttering leaves and their cool white natural water in an area of a hundred head. One is inclined to disbelieve these sence there can be found in the form of lions and of this amount four hundred stories especially if he enters the Park at tra"Cks and the half-eaten remains of were the spoils of "Old Pot" his favor­ midday, but in the early morning and deer and fawn. It is a peculiar lion trait ite hound. · When President Theodore evenings they come out into the open not to eat from tl_ie same victim a second Roosevelt visited the Kaibab many years grassy meadows to graze, and do not time unless of necessity, for they prefer ago, it was Uncle J:im who guided and seem very wild. One may ride quite to make a fresh kill for every meal. hunted with him. It was a result of this close to them on horseback before they At different times when the lions seem­ trip that Roosevelt made of this country bound away. One should say "bounce" ed to be getting the upper hand and start­ a forest and gii.me preserve, and in so for that is more nearly· what they do, and ed in on cattle and horses as well as doing preserved for posterity this won­ it is very amusing to watch a fawn when deer, government hunters were put on derful haven of wild life. startled, keep bouncing in the same spot their trail to thin them out a bit. One of Thriving in the forest are also many before he has learned to apply the boun­ the most noted of these was "Uncle Jim other forms of bird and animal life. One ces on a getaway. Owens," who lived and hunted in the of the most interesting of these is the With this enormous herd of deer Na­ Buckskins for many years and had many Kaibab or White Tailed Squirrel, said ture has placed, there, to maintain her exciting encounters with the "big kit­ to exist no place else. It is an attractive inevitable balance, a goodly amount of ties" as he called them. An old sign in animal somewhat larger than an ordi­ nary squirrel and of a dark brownish­ gray color on the back, but very white underneath and with a very large bushy white tail and white tufts in the ears. The contrast is very striking and once seen scampering through the trees will never be forgotten. There are endless varieties of plant life-flowers, ferns and berrias, and all the bright colored butterflies and insects that go with them. Many species of mushrooms, both poisonous and edible, abound ·after the summer rains in the damp shade of the aspen groves. In the fall the deer become very fat from feeding upon them. There is so much of varied beauty there, so much of interest for student, collector, hunter or just plain vacationist, that it is nice to know that this area has been set aside under the Park and Forest Services, to be kept intact for the enjoyment of future generations­ President Teddy Roosevelt once visited the Kaibab, and through his interest it becami, its timber uncut, its wild life unafraid­ The Kaibab is rich in big trees. Thousands of Kaibab deer have thinned the underbrush. a for est preserve. a last stand of the primitive! •

32 ARIZONA HIGHWAYS AUGUST, 1939 33 "Basket Weaver at Home-Papago." JAS. R. WILSON "Kiva-Mishongnovi"-H opi Indian Village MILTON SNOW Roads 1n the Making A SOLDIER'SFAREWELL ByKeith Humphries

chauffeur helped an old man out. He tapped the ground for a sure footing, then slowly wended his way across the lot. The parade ground held his fancy -the old flagstaff had long since fallen STOOD on the wall of the adobe cor­ -the area was corrugated with gully- for some familiar spot-or just to make Big guns of road construction are con­ ral at Fort Bowie and looked east­ washes and covered with mesquite. Those sure ... stantly roaring throughout the Arizona dimming eyes had trouble in orienting highway system. Above, the select ma­ I ward, down the canyon at that vast Again he edged out from the wall11, his mind-in fathoming this time-long terial pit on the Lee Moor oiling contract panorama of desert waste-creosote muttered, "Even the parade, tground has on U. S. Highway 60 north of Globe. change. brush, mesquite, turpentine weed and changed." He stopped, tensed up a bit, catclaw-a mantle that seemed to absorb looked behind-then upward. His mouth the desert stillness of the wide San Simon fell open, an exalted look came over that Valley. furrowed face, "Helen's Dome!" Trem­ No dragoons appeared on the Butter­ bling, he pointed his cane at the cone­ field trail. No sound of bugle blowing shaped mountain in the background. "Boots and Saddles" came from the "She's the same as ever. Always will parade ground. No troopers rushed from be." the adobe barracks-carbines in hand­ He shuffled to the car-then turned for dashing for ponies waiting behind mud a farewell look. and rock walls. Old Fort Bowie-once a mud village But there was dust on the old stage with box and domino-shaped walls, tilted road-miles out of the valley. Some­ and flat roofs, rectangular corrals, all thing moving-hastening toward the supported by limestone foundations. The fort. woodwork has become fence stays or has It couldn't be a circle of settler's wa­ long since been hauled away; the walls Busy workmen are engaged in road im­ gons-bunched-with white puffs of are melting earthward; the wind and provements betweeri Oracle Junction and powder smoke belching through wagon Capt. C. P. Lyman, formerly sta­ rain have rounded the corners. Time has Florence on U. S. Highway 80 and 89. tioned at Fort Bowie, Arizona, in wheels and under canvases. It couldn't the days of the Indian wars, re­ left the place looking like the passing be some lone prospector hastening to of an earthquake. Little wonder that this Nearly thirty miles of bituminous-surfaced highway are being laid on U. S. Highway cently visited the ruins of the old •shelter, later to drop gun, lead rope­ fort, indulged in memories of the old timer failed to find his old quarters. 60 between Showlow and Globe. Present contracts will see this highway oiled-paved past. to a point thirty-seven miles north of Globe. sag in his boots, quiver, and lie still. Nor Few are left who care to travel the would that dust bring the sad tidings that trail made by those early settlers who some rancher's house lay as a square of dropped out of Doubtful Canyon-crossed burned ashes, with grotesque figures ly­ He tapped a circuitous route through the San Simon Valley via Fort Bowie and ing nude and mutilated in the yard. roofless walls, frameless doors and win·· proceeded onward to California. Instead, No more of that past horror-all the

36 ARIZONA HIGHWAYS AUGUST, 1939 37 Mrs. Helen M. Peck of Wikieup, who gives spend an hour here, because we are in a hurry." The two teachers from New York us an article this issue on Kaibab and the North Rim, writes: "Mr. Peck was the first went through the ruins in ten minutes and soon they were gone, roadster and slacks ranger sent to the North Rim when the Park and all. Service took over the Grand Canyon. On account of the fact that I could ride, help with * * * * the pack-string, cook .... I was permitted Mr. Uncle Sam is considering the pur­ to go along. There was no bridge across the chase of the Tonto Natural Bridge for a Colorado so we trailed nine head of pack national monument. Several investigating stock down the old Walsh Henry trail to the commissions have studied the proposal and Along the have marked it with official approval. Con­ so-called ford. I don't know which was the worst, the steep, washed out trail where we gressional hearings are taking place, and it sometimes had to place our horses' feet by is believed the bridge will be made a na­ hand, or the 'ford' which was just as deep as tional monument. the rest of the river. ... However, Emery This great natural bridge in northern Kolb was there to manage the boat so we Gila county is a tremendous thing to see. got the nine head and ourselves across Dave Goodfellow and his brother, who own Highways and without mishap. Some of the burros would and operate the bridge, have a commodious not swim so we pumped up some old inner lodge, cabins, and considerable acreage in tubes brought along for the purpose, tied cultivation. Fruit trees grow in profusion them around the burros necks and crossed at their place and there are berry vines one at a time behind the boat. helter-skelter. It is a regular garden of Eden Trails west. and should be one of the show places of * * * * the state. When you travel thousands of miles over The bridge is a colossal affair and larger Byways by seven times than the Natural Bridge of the highways of Arizona, and you are for­ tunate enough not to have a puncture, do Virginia. you thoughtlessly attribute your good for­ * * * * tune to old lady luck? Of course, you are Portraits in Passing: John Butler's lodge lucky-or you have good tires! But also in the White Mountains at Greer, full of remember this: It is one of the functions of summer lodgers and pleasant living, a cheer­ the Arizona highway department to keep ful place in the pines beside a trout fishing nails and bits of iron out of the roadway. stream . . . . those grand vistas from the B. D. GLAHA, COURTESY, BUREAU OF RECLAMATION. This is done with the "magnetic" truck-a mountain peaks along the Coronado Trail, FIGURES OF 'rHE REPUBLIC By night the figures of the Republic, which stretch their upraised truck which carries a magnet device that where all out-of-doors seems to stretch end­ wings thirty feet above the crest of Boulder Dam stand out against picks up all the foreign particles from the lessly below you .... a rodeo at the San the dark desert sky. The Nevada wall of Black Canyon of the Colo­ roadway that endanger your tires. Carlos Indian reservation, and the Indians rado river rises behind them. The lighted tops of the great in~ake Sweeping the highways, as it were. with . their gaudy shirts and dresses, part towers immediately upstream from the dam can be seen at the right. * * * * of a colorful picture .... always the surprise An eastern travel agency has written us when you look down into Salt River canyon for information regarding advice to motorists traveling the deserts of Arizona on U.S. highway 60 with the rugged canyon walls looking so red and formidable. during the summer months. It never occurred to us that anyone traveling the * * * * highways of Arizona, regardless of the season, would need advice. Dress Jim Williams' place on Walnut Creek in Yavapai county, a jewel of a ranch li~htly'. do not drive at excessive speeds, and see that your car is well supplied in a perfect setting .... Jim Williams' neighbor, Barney York, a perfect host with 011and gas! And then as a final admonition, we would say forget the for a ranch .... Bright Angel Lodge at the Grand Canyon, packed with thous­ heat, relax and enjoy yourself. ands of visitors this summer coming by special train, plane, automobile .... * * * * and the amazing dispatch and courtesy with which the help at the Lodge so Conversational piece: Petrified Forest-"Mama, what's them?" "Those efficiently handle the crowds. are pieces of petrified wood! " "What is petrified wood, mama?" "Petrified ... Oracle, the quaint village nestling in the foothills of the Santa Catalinas, wood is wood turned to rocks!" "That don't look like wood, mama!" "No, is both a summer and winter resort .... two very fine ranches are operated darling, it's stone. Not wood!" "But you said it was wood, mama!" "Yes for guests during the winter and in the summer there are cottagers and vaca- darling, it was wood, but now it is stone!" "What turned it, mama?" "Hush' tionists from Tucson .... it is 27 miles from Oracle to Mt. Lemmon, a long darling, you wouldn't understand!" ' interesting climb .... a control road governs traffic the last seven miles .... * * * * * * * * Conversation piece: Casa Grande National Monument: The two t'chooJ Off the calendar: Kingman is getting ready for the Dig'n Dogie days over teachers from New York were wearing slacks. Only they shouldn't have the Labor day holidays, and a fine chance that will give you to also visit the been wearing slacks, because the slacks were not becoming to the two school Boulder Recreational area. . . . . Ralph Watkins has been named director of teachers from New York. Their roadster slid to a four-point landing in front Buckeye's Helzapopin in November, and plans are already in preparation for of the administration building and they were out and registered almost in a the show ... a bigger and better Fiesta is being planned for Phoenix this year. ~once (whatever that is.) The ranger said: "Good morning!" They said: * * * * Good morning! We are out to see as many national monuments as we can Jim Webb of Boulder City contends that the nine-pound bass in Lake Mead this summer." The ranger said: "That is fine. If you follow me, I will conduct came from New Mexico to the Virgin river years ago when Carl Hayden was you through the ruins." "How long will it take?" one of the teachers asked running for representative to Congress ... in many states you can see deer "It will take about an hour becau~e we try to give an interesting lecture" the along the highways but few states afford you the opportunity of seeing antelope ranger said. "Oh! Heavens!" one of the teachers exclaimed, "we co~ldn't frolic by the waysides . . . . Arizona is one of those states. . . . .

38 ARIZONA HIGHWAYS AUGUST, 1939 39 nishing and placing of a mixed base north of the Coconino National Forest material, and the placing of a mixed bi­ boundary, and extending north toward tuminous surface, using SC-4 road oil, Winslow. Works Progress Administra­ road mix, and other miscellaneous work tion participating. A. F. E. 2303. F. A. Road Projects Under Construction incidental to the construction of approxi­ Berg, resident engineer. mately 11 miles of the Bridgeport-Mon­ Lee Moor Contracting Company, El tezuma Castle Highway, beginning at Paso, Texas, has a contract for subgrad­ the junction with the Cottonwood-Se­ DISTRICT NO. 1 A. F. E. 638. J. A. Quigley, resident ing the roadway and refinishing the engineer. dona Highway about 3 miles east of slopes, furnishing and placing select ma­ Joe DeArozena, District Engineer Cottonwood and extending southeasterly. terial, applying SC-6 road oil plant mix, Skousen Bros., Albuquerque, New Mex­ Construction started May 5th, 1939. Tanner Construction Company, Phoenix, type "B" seal coat and asphaltic sur­ ico, has a contract for the smoothing up and is to be completed by October 31st, face treating the roadway, on approxi­ .Arizona has a contract for grading and of the present select material and the 1939. Federal aid secondary project 3-A draining the roadway over a new located mately 3.89 miles of the Globe-Showlow placing of a mixed bituminous surface. (1). A. F. E. 634. C. S. Benson, resi­ Highway, beginning about 50 miles line. Placing an aggregate base course Using an SC-4 road oil, road mix on ap­ dent engineer. and oil processing the roadway using an northeast of Globe and extending south­ proximately 7.5 miles of the Aguila-Con­ Warren Southwest, Inc., Los Angeles, westerly. Construction started on De­ SC-6 road oil, plant mix. The construc­ gress Junction Highway. Beginning at California, has a contract for grading tion of one 7 span, 6 girder bridge on a cember 28th, 1938 and is to be completed the Maricopa County line and extending and draining the roadway, placing an by October 31st, 1939. Federal Lands pro­ 45 degree skew; one 4-25 ft. span bridge northeasterly. Construction started May imported borrow base course and mixed on a 30 degree skew; one 3 span, lO'xS'x- ject 6-B. A. F. E. 6087. C. B. Browning, 10th, 1939, and is to be completed by bituminous surface, using an SC-4 Road resident engineer. 56.5' concrete box culvert; one 3-span December 31st, 1939. Federal aid secon­ Oil, Road Mix. The construction of about 10'x4'x53.5 concrete box culvert; one dary project 1-A (2). A. F. E. 7106. 12 Oil Surfaced Fords with wood walls Lee Moor Contracting Company, El 10'x8'x110.5' concrete box culvert;_ one J. A. Quigley, resident engineer. and other miscellaneous work incidental Paso, Texas, has a contract for subgrad­ 6'x5'x104' concrete box culvert and other Skousen Bros., Albuquerque, New Mex­ to the construction of approximately 5.36 ing the roadway and refinishing the miscellaneous work on approximately 3.1 ico, has a contract for grading and drain­ miles of Ajo-Tucson highway. Beginning slopes, furnishing and placing select miles of the Kingman-Needles Highway. ing the roadway, placing an imported about seven miles southeast of Ajo and material, applying SC-6 road oil plant Beginning at the town of Kingman and borrow and aggregate base course and a extending southeasterly. Construction "He's from New York! He says it's the mix, Type "B" seal coat and asphaltic extending southwesterly. Construction mixed bituminous surface, using an started June 12th, 1939 and is to be com­ only way he can read the paper!" surface treating the roadway on approxi­ started January 23, 1939 and is to be S C-4 road oil, road mix. The construc­ pleted by October 30, 1939. Federal Aid mately 3.1 miles of the Globe-Showlow completed by September 30th, 1939. Fed­ tion of one 2 span 10'x3'x34' concrete Secondary Project 110-H (1). A. F. E. Highway beginning about 46.1 miles eral aid grade highway project 85-A (1). box culvert, one 3 span 10'x5x34' con­ 635. H. Pinney, resident engineer. located line, placing an aggregate base northeast of Globe, and extending south­ A. F. E. 6603. Geo. Lang, resident en­ crete box culvert, one 4 span 10'x3'x34' Arizona Sand and Rock Company, course and mixed bituminous surface, westerly. Construction started on Decem­ gineer. concrete box culvert, one 5 span 10'x4'x- Phoenix, Arizona has a contract for grad­ using an SC-6 road oil, road mix. The ber 28th, 1938, and is to be completed Tanner Construction Company, Phoe­ 41.75' concrete box culverts, and 7 mis­ ing and draining the roadway, placing construction of one 2 span 10'x8'x29.5 by October 31st, 1939. Federal aid project I'm afraid Elk-Tooth and White-Cloud cellaneous smaller size concrete box cul­ an aggregate base course and a Portland concrete box culvert, the widening of 2 99-F. A. F. E. 6088. C. B. Browning, nix, Arizona, has a contract for the existing bridges to a 28' clear roadway, grading and draining the roadway over a don't understand the esthetic side of verts and other miscellaneous work inci­ cement concrete pavement 22 ft. wide. resident engineer. One 11 ft. shoulder on each side of the the widening of 3 smaller size concrete re-located line. Placing an aggregate dancing." dental to the construction of approxi­ box culverts and other miscellaneous Lee Moor Contracting Company, El base course and oil processing the road­ mately 7.03 miles of the Aguila-Congress pavement to be a salvaged bituminous Paso, Texas, has a contract for subgrad­ mix, making a 44 ft. clear roadway. The work incidental to the construction of ap­ way using an SC-6 road oil plant mix, Junction Highway, beginning about 7.5 proximately 5.74 miles of the Springer­ ing the roadway and refinishing the the construction of one 4-span concrete miles northeast of the Maricopa County widening of existing structures and other slopes, furnishing and placing select nix, Arizona has a contract for the con­ work incidental to the construction of ville-New Mexico State Line Highway. bridge on a 30 degree skew; one 3 span struction of a bridge across the Santa line and extending northeasterly. Con­ Beginning about 9 miles east of Spring­ material, applying SC-6 road oil plant 10'x4'x112.5 concrete box culvert on a 15 struction started May 10th, 1939, and is 1.6 miles of the Ash Fork-Flagstaff mix, Type "B" seal coat and asphaltic Maria river about 11 miles northwest Highway, beginning about 8.5 miles west erville and extending easterly to the New degree skew; one 6'x5'x38.75' concrete box of the town of Hillside. The substructure to be completed by December 31st, 1939. surface treating the roadway on approxi­ culvert and other miscellaneous work on Federal lands project 11-A (1). A.F.E. of Flagstaff and extending easterly. Mexico State Line. Construction start­ mately .53 miles of the Globe-Showlow will consist of 4 intermediate piers and Construction started June 30th, 1939 and ed April 26th, 1939, and is to be com­ approximately 1.18 miles of the Kingman­ 2 abutment piers built on steel H piles 7105. J. A. Quigley, resident engineer. Highway, beginning about 43.0 miles Boulder Dam Highway. Beginning at the State forces are engaged constructing is to be completed by October 15th, 1939. pleted October 31st, 1939. Federal aid northeast of Globe and extending south­ town of Kingman and extending north­ driven approximately 30' below stream­ fence. Maricopa-Yuma county line to Federal Aid Project 24-A ( 5). A. F. E. project 73-A (2). A. F. E. 6084. E. H. westerly. Construction started December westerly. Construction started January bed. The superstructure will consist of a Wickenburg, Highway U. S. 60-70 6692. C. S. Benson, resident engineer. West, resident engineer. 28th, 1938, and is to be completed by 23rd, 1939 and is to be completed by Sep­ steel plate girder deck approximately Works Progress Administration partici­ State Forces are constructing a line October 31st, 1939. Federal aid project tember 30th, 1939. Federal aid project 392' long with a 22' clear roadway. Con­ pating. A. F. E. 1501. Howard Shelp, DISTRICT NO. 2 change on State 65, Winslow-Pine High­ 99-E. A. F. E. 6089. C. B. Browning, 123-D (1) A. F. E. 9304. Geo. Lang, struction started April 17th, 1939 and is resident engineer. R. C. Perkins, District Enginer ways, consisting of grading, draining, resident engineer. resident engineer. to be completed by November 15th, 1939. Oswald Brothers Contractors, Phoenix, surfacing and fencing, beginning 2.6 miles Lee Moor Contracting Company, El N. G. Hill and Company, Phoenix, Ari­ Phoenix-Tempe Stone Company, Phoe- Federal aid secondary project 4-A (1). Arizona, has a contract for the grading and draining the roadway over a new zona, has a contract for the grading and located line. The construction of one 3 draining the roadway over a new located span 10'x8'x82' concrete box culvert on a line. Placing imported borrow and select 30 degree skew; one 10'x8'x40' concrete material over the roadway. Construc­ box culvert; one 10'x7'x44.5' concrete box ting about ten 6'x7'x29.5' concrete box culvert; one 6'x7'x78.5' concrete box cul­ culverts and other miscellaneous work vert; one 6'x5'x51' concrete box culvert incidental to the construction of approxi­ and other miscellaneous work on approxi­ mately 9.8 miles of the Showlow-Holbrook mately 4.72 miles of the Flagstaff-Fre­ Highway, beginning near Showlow and donia Highway. Beginning at the town of extending northerly. Construction started Fredonia and extending southeasterly. November 2nd, 1938, and is to be complet­ Construction started January 12th, 193~ ed by July 31st, 1939. Federal aid project and is to be completed by October 15th, 136-A (1). A. F. E. 7704. F. A. Berg, 1939. Federal aid project 132-B (1) resident engineer. A. F. E. 8903. H. B. Wright, resident en­ W. E. Bondurant, Roswell, New Mex­ gineer. ico has a contract for the construction of (?swa.ld Brothers, Contractors, Phoenix, a bridge across the Little Colorado river Arizona, has a contract for the grading about 2.5 miles east of Winslow. The sub­ and draining the roadway over a new lo­ structure will consist of 8 intermediate cated line. The construction of one 10'x8'­ piers and 2 abutment piers built on con­ x55.5' concrete box culvert; one 6'x6'x- crete piles driven approximately 55 ft. 45. 75' concrete box culvert; one 6'x4'x47' below streambed. The superstructure will concrete box culvert; one 5'x5'x37.5' con­ consist of a steel plate girder deck with crete box culvert and other miscellaneous a 26' clear roadway and approximately work on approximately 9.96 miles of the 766' long, and will replace the present Flagstaff-Fredonia Highway, beginning steel truss bridge which is 14' clear near the town of Fredonia and extending roadway and 620' long. Construction southeasterly. Construction started Jan­ started on March 3rd, 1939, and is to be uary 12th, 1939 and is to be completed completed by November 30th, 1939. Fed­ by October 15th, 1939. Federal lands proj­ eral aid project 40-B (1). A. F. E. 6605. ect 9-A (1). A. F. E. 8903. H. B. Wright F. A. Berg, resident engineer. resident engineer. ' Packard Contracting Company, Phoe­ Near Prescott, U.S. Highway 89 slashes its regal way through a gardenland of rocks Tanner Construction Company, Phoe­ nix, Arizona, has a contract for grading From the Lookout Point near the summit of Yarnell Hill can be seen a great expanse -Granite Dells. This fantastic area always charms the visitor on Arizona's north­ nix, Arizona, has a contract for the fur- and draining the roadway over a re- of desert, valley and mountain ranges. Travelers always enjoy the view at this point. south highway. 40 ARIZONA HIGHWAYS AUGUST, 1939 41 Paso, Texas, has a contract for subgrad­ ject 16 (2) A. F. E. 7018. R. D. Can­ completion August 10th, 1939. A. F. E. and draining the roadway, placing an im­ PROJECT COMPLETED ing the roadway and refinishing the field, resident engineer. 8030. Earl Bodine, construction superin­ ported borrow base course and mixed Route 7, Oak Creek Highway, Coconino slopes, furnishing and placing select ma­ State forces are constructing a line tendent. bituminous surface, using an SC-2 road National Forest change on U. S. 70, Globe-Miami High­ Lee Moor Contracting- Company, El terial, applying SC-6 road oil plant mix, oil, road mix. The construction of one Pearson and Dickerson, Contractors, Type "B" seal coat and asphaltic sur­ way, consisting of grading, draining, Paso, Texas, has a contract for the South 6 span 10'x7'x29.5·' concrete box culvert, face treating the roadway on approxi­ surfacing, back sloping and landscaping, Central avenue underpass in Phoenix. one 2 span 6'x4'x29.5' concrete box cul­ Inc., Prescott, Arizona, on June 17, 1939 mately 11.57 miles of the Globe-Showlow Claypool to Globe. Works Progress Ad­ The underpass, which is the largest and vert, one 8'x6'x29.5' concrete box culvert completed a contract for grading, drain­ Highway, beginning about 42.5 miles ministration participating. A.F.E. 7025. most expensive grade separation project and other miscellaneous work on approxi­ ing and placing base course surfacing northeast of Globe and extending south­ TL D. Canfield, resident engineer. yet undertaken will be constructed en­ mately 5.39 miles of the Ajo-Tucson State forces are widening and sloping tirely with Federal Aid Grade Crossing with light bituminous treatment on a por­ westerly. Construction started on De­ Highway. Beginning about 1.67 miles tion of Section B of Arizona Forest High­ cember 28th, 1938, and is to be completed shoulders and widening structures on funds. The city of Phoenix will furnish east of Ajo and extending southeasterly. by October 31st, 1939. Federal aid project U. S. 70, from Globe City Limits, toward all rights of ways and reconstruct all Construction started May 24, 1939, way Route 7, Oak Creek. Project begins 99-A. A. F. E. 6090. C. B. Browning, Cutter. Works Progress Administration buildings as necessary by reason of street and is to be completed by October 15th, 0.6 miles north of Sedona and extends widening. The project starts at the resident engineer. participating. A. F. E. 7025. R. D. Can­ 1939. Federal Aid Secondary Project 3.577 miles northerly to Indian Gardens. field, resident engineer. south line of Buchanan street and ex­ 110-G (1). A. F. E. 633. H. Pinney, resi­ V. G. Watson, resident engineer. Lee Moor Contracting Company, El State forces are grading and surfacing tends to the north line of Gold Alley dent engineer. Paso, Texas, has a contract for subgrad­ approximately 30 miles of State Route south of Madison street, a distance of Phoenix-Tempe Stone Co., Phoenix, ing the roadway and refinishing the 81 in vicinity of Rose Peak, north of 945 feet. The street widening south of Arizona, has a contract for grading and PROJECTS UNDER CONSTRUCTION slopes, furnishing and placing select ma­ Clifton. Works Progress Administration the Southern Pacific tracts requires 10 draining the roadway, placing an aggre­ Route 19, Clifton-Alpine Highway, terial, applying SC-6 road oil plant mix participating. Present work program at feet additional on the west and 5 feet gate base course, a mixed bituminous Crook National Forest Type "B" seal coat and asphaltic sur­ this point to be completed aqout July 10. on the east side. On the north end the surface, using an SC-6 Road Oil, Plant face treating the roadway on approxi­ widening requires 10 feet on each side in All Arizona Engineering and Construc­ A. F. E. 8114. W. B. Matlock, construc­ Mix. The construction of curbs and gut­ tion Company, Clifton, Arizona, has the mately 10.72 miles of the Globe-Show­ tion superintendent. the half block between Jackson street and ters, special gutters, and sidewalks, both ing shoulders, and filling borrow pits low Highway, beginning about 30.9 miles Gold Alley. All building fronts are to be contract for grading, draining and plac­ State Forces are constructing a grad1! concrete and oil and other miscellaneous on the Bisbee-Douglas Highway, U. S. ing cushion material on a portion of Sec­ northeast of Globe and extending south­ change, widening, re-laying oil cake and set back to provide this additional width work incidental to the construction of Route 80, between Forest Ranch and of street. tion B of Arizona Forest Highway koute westerly. Construction started Decem­ roadside improvement on Washington approximately 1.32 miles of the Florence­ Douglas. The work consists of widening 19, Clifton-Alpine. Project begins ap­ ber 28th, 1938, and is to be completed by Boulevard, from Delano Ave., to East The underpass consists of a 4-lane Tucson highway, beginning north of the the existing 20 feet of highway t@ a 40- divided roadway structure passing under proximately 45 miles north of Clifton October 31st, 1939. Federal aid project Van Buren Junction. Works Progress town of Coolidge ancl extending through foot shoulder-to-shoulder width. A. F. E. and extends northerly 6.115 miles. Work 99-D. A. F. E. 6091. C. B. Browning, Administration participating. A. F. E. both the Southern Pacific and Santa Fe 3503. Boone Waughtal, foreman. A. J. tracts and providing street level crossing the town. Construction started June 1, was resumed May 22, 1939 after a winter resident engineer. 2102. Earl Bodine, resident engineer. 1939 and is to be completed by September Gilbert resident engineer. shutdown which began on December 14, State Forces began improvement of of Jackson street. Two 11-foot lanes are W. E. Orr, Contractors, Phoenix, Ari­ to be provided each side of the center di­ 30, 1939. Federal Aid Project 94-B ( 4) State Forces are improving U. S. 80, 1938 and is about 99% complete. E. F. zona, has the contract for grading and State Highway 173, Lakeside to McNary. and Federal Aid Project 94-C-(2). A. Benson-Douglas Highway through Bis­ Koch, resident engineer. Surfacing and dust palliating. Works vision street level roadways on each side draining the roadway over a re-located of the ramps between Buchanan street F. E. 8418. Mark H. Layn, resident en­ bee. The work consists of widening and Route 28, Fredonia-Houserock Valley line. Placing an aggregate base course Progress Administration participating. gineer. resurfacing 1500 feet of pavement. Two Ivan Turley, foreman. and the Southern Pacific tracks on the Highway, Kaibab National Forest and oil processing the roadway, using south and between Jackson street and Skousen Bros., Albuquerque, New Mex­ grade changes, curve betterment on Fisher Contracting Company, Phoe­ an SC-4 road oil, road mix. Constructing State forces are widening and surfac­ Gold Alley on the north. Central avenue ico, has a contract for grading, and drain­ dangerous curves, placing curb, gutter nix, Arizona, has the contract for grad­ a 2 span 12'x14'x96' concrete bridge cul­ ing the McNary-Fort Apache Highway, between Jackson street and the Southern ing the roadway over a new located line. and sidewalks, rebuilding rubble retain­ ing, draining and placing base course vert; a 6'x7'x56' concrete box culvert; a Works Progress Administration partici­ Pacific tracks will be entirely covered Placing an aggregate base course and ing walls, placing cattle guards and surfacing with light bituminous treat­ 6'x7'x84' concrete box culvert and other pating. A. F. E. 7302. R. M. Scott, fore­ except for a light well and stairway at oil processing the roadway using an fencing and constructing a grilled drain ment on portions of Section C and D of miscellaneous work incidental to the con­ man. the Southern Pacific tracks. The ramp SC-3 road oil, road mix. The construction across the highway to eliminate wet Arizona Forest Highway Route 28, Fre­ struction of 2.74 miles of the Superior­ State Forces are widening U. S. 80, on the south begins at the north line of of one 2 span 10'x5'x41' concrete box cul­ pavement. Works Pro,gress Adminis­ donia-Houserock, Valley. Project is lo­ Miami Highway. Beginning at the Gila­ Tempe Streets, 8th Ave., to 11th Ave. Buchanan street and dips down to pass vert, one 2 span 10'x5'x29.5' concrete box tration participating. A. F. E. 3502. cated between points approximately 3 Pinal county line and extending south­ Works Progress Administration parti­ under the Southern Pacific tracks with culvert, one 2 span 10'x4'x29.5' concrete Boone Waughtal, foreman, A. J. Gilbert, and 16 miles north to Jacob Lake. The westerly. Construction started January cipating. Work consists of pavement wid­ a reinforced concrete barrel 208 feet box culvert, and 6 miscellaneous smaller resident engineer. length of roadway between these points 23rd, 1939 and is to be completed by ening and resurfacing, curb and gutter long, at the end of which is a 43-foot size concrete box culverts and other mis­ State Forces are working on curve covered by the project is 6.137 miles. September 15th, 1939. Federal aid pro- and roadside improvement. Anticipated light and stair well. The low level grade cellaneous work incidental to the con­ easement and betterment on the Oracle Work was resumed May 24, 1939 after is to be continued from this point through truction of approximately 8.83 miles of Junction-Mammoth Highways, State a winter shut-down which began Jan­ another 126-foot barrel to the north side the Ajo-Gila Bend Highway. Beginning Route 77. Work Progress Administration uary 3, 1939 and is about 95% complete. of Jackson street. The north ramp ends about 18 miles north of Ajo and extend­ participating. The work started January, C.R. Brashears, resident engineer. at street level on the south line of Gold ing northerly. Construction started March 1939. A. F. E. 33 (47). Frank Watson, Oswald Brothers, Contractors, Los An­ Alley. Construction started June 7, 1939; 7th, 1939, and is to be completed by foreman. geles, California, have the contract for and is to be, completed by May 15, 1940. September 30th, 1939. Federal Lands Stat~ Forces_ are grading, draining, grading, draining and placing crusher Federal Aid Grade Municipal Project Highway Project 10-A (1) A. F. E. ~urfacmg, fencmg and making roadside run rock top course with a light bitu­ 2-A(l), A. F. E. 625. Jas. A. Parker, 8508. H. Pinney, resident engineer. improvements on State Route 82 No­ minous treatment or portions of Sec­ resident engineer, P. F. Glendenning, Tanner Construction Company, Phoe­ gales-Patagonia Highway. Works 'Prog­ tion C and D of Arizona Forest High­ project engineer. nix, Arizona, has a contract for grading ress Administration participating. The way Route 28, Fredonia-Houserock Val­ and draining the roadway over a new work consists of relocation and line­ ley. Project begins at Jacob Lake and ex­ Geo. W. Orr, El Paso, Texas, has a located line. Placing an aggregate base c1?,anges, and the widening of the present tends 11 miles northerly towards Fre­ contract for the construction of a small co~rse and oil processing the roadway highway. A. F. E. 8221. R. C. Bond resi- donia. Work was started April 17, 1939 line change about 66.5 miles northeast usmg an SC-4 cutback asphalt, road mix. dent engineer. ' and is about 30% complete. C. R. Bra­ of Globe. The work consists of excava­ The construction of one 4 span 10'x7'x- shears, resident engineer. tion of Side Hill Cut and entails the 37.5' concrete box culvert; one 5' span moving of approximately 7,800 C. Y. of 10'x3'x37.5' concrete box culvert; two n:.oute 33, Catalina Mountain Highway, excavation only. Construction started PUBLIC ROADS ADMINISTRATION Coronado Forest 3 span 10'x8'x43.5' concrete box culverts, FEDERAL WORKS AGENCY June 7th, 1939, and is to be completed by and 18 miscellaneous smaller size con­ Project consists of grading and drain­ July 15, 1939. Non-Federal Aid, 105-D, crete box culverts and other miscellan­ PROJECTS IN ARIZONA ing of a highway on the south side of the A. F. E. 6001. C. B. Browning, resident eous work incidental to the construction Catalina Mountains, between a point ap­ engineer. of approximately 7.66 miles of the Ben­ proximately 17 miles northeast of Tucson, Tiffany Construction Co., Phoenix, G. L. McLANE, Senior Highway En­ Arizona and Soldier Camp Ranger Sta­ son-Steins Pass Highway, beginning gineer. Arizona has a contract for subgrading about 2 miles southeast of Bowie Junction tion near the Summit. The project has the roadway and refinishing the slopes, and extending southwest to the town of W. R. F. WALLACE, Highway Engi­ been completed from the foot of the moun­ furnishing and placing select material, Bowie. Construction started March 8th neer, Supervising Enginer. tain to a point 9.5 miles toward the sum­ applying SC-3 road oil asphaltic surface, 1939, and is to be completed by Decembe; W. P. WESCH, Highway Bridge En­ mit. H. H. Woodman, resident engineer. and such other work incidental to the gineer, Bridge Engineer. construction of approximately 10.1 miles 31st, 1939. Federal aid project 130-D. (1). Jacob-Lake-North Rim Approach To A. ~- E. 8610. A. J. Gilbert, resident W. J. WARD, Associate Highway En­ Grand Canyon National Park of the Holbrook-St. Johns Highway, be­ engmeer. gineer, Locating Engineer. ginning about 25 miles southeast of Hol­ Fisher Contracting Company, Phoenix, brook and extending southeasterly. Con­ State Forces are grading, draining and R. THIRION, Associate Highway En­ Arizona, has the contract for grading, struction started July 12th, 1939, and surfacing 13.5 miles of U. S. Highway gineer, Highway Planning Engineer. draining and placing base course surfac­ is to be completed by September 15th, 80, Florence-Tucson Highway, Oracle J. H. BRANNAN, Associate Highway ing with light bituminous treatment on 1939. Federal Aid Project 78-E (2) and Junction north. Work consists of con­ Engineer, Supervising Engineer. a section of the Jacob-Lake-North Rim struction on new location, with appurte­ Approach Road to Grand Canyon Nat­ 78-H (2). A. F. E. 2663 and 2664. E. H. E. F. STRICKLER, Associate Highway West, resident engineer. nant dr~inage construction, surfacing ional Park. Project begins at Jacob Lake and fencmg. Works Progress Adminis­ Engineer, Supervising Engineer. and extends south 1.278 miles. Work was tration participating. A. F. E. 8001. D. J. R. M. RUTLEDGE, Assistant Highway resumed May 22, 1939 after a winter DISTRICT NO. 3 Enginee:,r, Office Engineer. J. R. VanHorn, District Engineer Lyons, resident engineer. V. J. Eyer, shutdown begun on November 23, 1938 About mid-summer the snow leaves Sa-n Francisco Peaks. Summer motorists enjoy the Warren Southwest, Inc., Los Angeles, construction superintendent. E. V. ALDRICH, Junior Highway En­ and is about 99% complete. C. R. Bra­ drive through the pinelands surrounding the Peaks, many venture to the top. California, has a contract for grading State Forces are widening and surfac- gineer, Materials Engineer. shears, resident Engineer.

42 ARIZONA HIGHW .A.YS AUGUST,.·1939 43 Yours sincerely ■ ■ ■ and sincerely to you

tions. We also lend copper engravings, MAKING FRIENDS: . . . . Every number of Arizona High­ ARIZON IQUES ways is fascinating in text and illus­ but we never do so without the permission .... I want to express my appreciation tration. I know of no magazine more of the photographer who submitted the of your splendid magazine that comes to print. For Mr. Dwyer, of the PITTS­ me each month. Having, with my wife, beautifully presented or more expertly edited. BURGH AUTOMOBILIST, we hope to spent the past two winters in your most prepare an interesting article on Arizona. scenic and hospitable state I am the This letter is but a token of obligation The cactus wren is the Arizona Each foreign car to visit Arizona The total silt deposits in Lake Mead and admiration . . more able to enjoy the printed matter and state bird. The motto of the state carries an average of three passengers, will not exceed 3,000,000 acre-feet by the illustrations that go to form one Rupert Hughes, SPIRIT OF "THE WEST": of Arizona is "Ditat Deus," which and each passenger spends about $4.00 the end of 50 years. of the most artistic pieces of make up Los Angeles, Calif. and editing that comes into our home. . . . . For seven years Mrs. Kellogg and means "God Enriches." a day for sustenance, gas and oil. It * * * * To Rupert Hughes, one of the fore­ myself have visited Arizona during the * * * * is also estimated that each car bear­ We are making your magazine "pay most writers of our times, ARIZONA months of July and August. We have A total of 27,304 visitors in f?,077 its way" for after our friends begin to HIGHWAYS extends a simple, western always been treated royally. The hand The pure white, waxy flower of the ing an out-of-state lice:qse stays an automobiles visited the Petrified For­ tire of my tales of our Arizona visits "Thanks, pardner !" with the hope of of friendship and the spirit of good "'.il_l, Saguaro cactus is the Arizona state average of four days in the state. est National Monument during June, and of reading my articles that have always being a welcome visitor to the · been published in the eastern papers, noticeable on every hand, and the spirit flower. This bloom is one of the * * * * 1939. I lend them my copy of the "Highways" Hughes' home. of "The West" is truly exemplified by the most beautiful of all flowers. Tourist cars traveled 254,499,900 people of Arizona. * * * * -and that settles it .... * * * * miles in Arizona during 193-8. During June, 1939, a total of 25,127 Some months ago a friend. whom no Chapter 2, Article 1, Revised Sta­ Joseph A. Handley, REPRINTS: doubt we made dring our travels, sent * * * * vehicles carrying 79,342 passengers Marlborough, Mass. .... Thanks for sending us the cuts us a subscription to Arizona Highways, tutes of 1928, Par. 22, defines the Ari­ The first steamer to reach Yuma visited the Boulder Dam National to use with the article on "Turquoise" zona state flag in this fashion. "Blue .. Appreci_afiion ~o the IJandl_eys for;, and have we enjoyed it! It is the "tops" was the "Uncle Sam," a sidewheeler, Recreational Area. For the travel to be reprinted from ARIZONA HIGH­ and is read until is is completely worn and old gold shall be the colors of the making Arizona Highways pay !ts ";Vay. which arrived at the Arizona river year October 1, 1938, to July 1, 1939, W A YS. This will appear in an early out. It is a unique and modern way of state. The blue shall be of the same If our readers would pass their is:m,es issue with full credit for the source. town December 19, 1854. Her engine 349,768 people in 121,648 vehicles vis­ of the magazine to friends our circle teaching geography. shade as that of the flag of the United I might say that in Arizona there are was a 20 horsepower and she drew ited the area. would widen, our work would be more I am a teacher of printing, and I find States. The flag of the state shall effective. We are proud to _know that a tremendous number of places and lo­ that Arizona Highways helps me a great 22 inches of water. * * * * calities which are of considerable geolo­ deal in.my work. It helps me by furnish­ be as follows: The lower half of the readers like the Handleys think enough * * * * Only once in its history has the of our magazine to pass it on. gical and mineralogical interest, and with ing material which creates interest, en­ flag a blue field; the upper half di­ the spreading of interest in these ~c~enc­ courages good citizenship, and helps to vided into thirtee~ equal segments John C. Page, commi;sioner of the Smoki dance of Prescott been per­ es, there will be more and more visitors put over the "ism" we are most inter­ or rays, which shall start at the cen­ Bureau of Reclamation, announces formed outside the state. This was to Arizona ... ested in-Americanism .... FAIR: ter, on ·the lower line and continue that the United States Board of Geo­ during the American Legion conven­ .... We wish to advise that your ~e­ H. C. Dake, Editor C. W. Kellogg, Instructor to the edge of the flag, colored alter­ graphic Names has adopted the name tion at the Sesquicentennial exposi­ partment has given us more co-opera~10n The Mineralogist Magazine, Printing Department, nately light yellow and red, consisting Lake Havasu as the official designa­ tion at Philadelphia. than any other source, and we certamly Portland, Oregon. tion for the 50-mile-long body of water appreciate what you have done for us. David Hale Fanning Trade School of six yellow and seven red rays; in * * * * created by Parker Dam on the Colo­ The magazines are beautiful, and y,re . . . . We wish to express our sincere Worcester, Mass. the center of the 'flag, superimposed, The low humidity of southern Ari- rado river. zona accounts for a temperature of assure you they will be given out with appreciation of your premi_ssion to ,,u~e .. We contend that Arizona is a great a copper colored five pointed star, so discretion. . . . the article, "Arizona's Ancient Art i_n state a proud member of these United placed that the upper points shall be * * * * 110 degrees being more comfortable ARIZONA FAIR COMMISSION our publication. Of course, full credit Stat~s. The more we read of Arizona's one foot from the top of the flag and Havasu is the Mohave word for than a temperature of 85 degrees in for the source of this material will be history, the more we see of this land_ of blue, thus the English translation of mid-western states. Mary D. Spaulding, given to yourselves and the author. the lower points one foot from the bot­ Enchantment, the more we are im­ the name of the big reservoir from N. Y. Representative. May we take this opportunity of ex­ pressed by /4rizona, the prouder we are tom of the flag; the red and blue shall * * * * N. Y. World's Fair, New York. tending our compliments on the fine job that we are citizens of this great state . be the same shade as the colors in the which water is pumped into the Colo­ Maricopa county is greater in area . . Arizona Highways goes each month you have done with "Arizona High­ Americans would do well to study their flag of the United States; the flag rado River Aqueduct is "Lake of the than the combined areas of Connecti­ to the fairs in New_ York a7:~ San Fran­ ways." ... owri land learn its history, read the glor­ to have a four-foot hoist and a six­ Blue Waters." The name Havasu cut, Delaware and Rhode Island. cisco, for di~t7:ibution to visito7:s at the The Warrington Messenger, ious chapters of progress and liberty and foot fly, with a two-foot star; the was first given to the lake early in Arizona exhibits. Through this source freedom. This is a screwy old worl~ * * * * we have widened our circle of friends. R. E. Flournoy, Editor today seething with unrest and unhappi­ same proportions to be observed for January, 1939, by Haranai, a Mojave Summer thunder storms are so fre­ New Orleans, La. ness tumult and conflict! America rep­ flags of other sizes. The flag repre­ Indian who is_said to be 102 years old. quent on the Colorado Plateau of rese;,,ts stability in the world ~oday. sents the copper star of Arizona rising * * * *. Northern Arizona that it is said Flag­ LONG LIFE: .... I have been reading your magazine Let's talk "America! We are trying to from a blue field in the face of a Maricopa county has a network of do so by talking long and loudly about staff is tied with Santa Fe, N. M., for .... You would have to trave_l f3:r and since I first became connected with the setting sun." nearly 400 miles of paved roads look hard to find a more enthusiastic and automobile club, and I must say that one colorful corner of Americar-Arizona! second place among cities of the persistent booster of Ar!zona_ than I. it is one of the best of its type that I throughout the farming areas. United States where thunder is heard. One winter spent largely m gomg about have ever run across. · * * * * * * * your glorious state in an open . car, ROAD TO THE RAINBOW: * Your eight southwestern portraits in It is estimated that the annual Northern Arizona is described as stopping here and. there a~ fancy w:illed, the June issue were superb. I have look­ .... Roads are pretty good up this evaporation on Lake Mead is about filled me with an ineradicable Arizona a country of canyons. These canyons ed at them time and again and I can only way, that is-fo~ this part of the state 600,000 acre feet of water. nostalgia. Every time I read a fresh say that they are more interesting each at this time. A httle work here and there were caused, not by upheavals, but by cony of Arizona Highways there comes a time I look at them. by the Indian service and by us gradually erosion caused by running streams. tug that almost breaks my leash to my cuts the driving time a little each year, ,t desk. Long life to you and your gospel Perhaps sometime in the near future * * * * you, or one of you:r associates can I?re­ so that now we make the 110 miles to Hopi means "peaceful people." They of grandeur! . . . Cameron easily in four hours pare a story on Arizona for OU!' _publica­ y are monogamous, but when the Hopi Merle Crowell, Director tion, the Pittsburgh Automob1hst. We Public Relations. would be glad to present such a story to Katharine A. Wilson, squaw wants a divorce she merely Rockefeller Center, Inc., our readers . . . . Rainbow Lodge, puts her husband's saddle outside the 50 Rockefeller Plaza, Tonalea, Arizona. front door. New York. Richard M. Dwyer, Editor .. Judging by the travel information And long life to Merle Crowell! Pittsburgh Automobilist, sought at the Arizon?- highway depar~­ Pittsburgh, Pa. ment on Rainbow Bridge, travel to this . . . . I believe your magazine co;1ld ' .. We gladly of fer our articles to quali­ rare scenic wonder will be heavier this command a much higher subscription fied publications for reprint purposes, for year than ever before. J. B. Priestley, price. The beautiful photos are all one by so doing we extend, as it were, our famed English author, "wr?te it U_P could ask in a magazine field of operation An average of two pretty" in the Saturday Evening Post in William W. Wright, articles a month from ARIZONA HIGH­ an article entitled: "Rainbow on the Tampa, Florida. WAYS are reproduced by other publica- Desert."

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