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CITY GUIDE ®

FEBRUARY 2020 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

Between History and Legend A JOURNEY INTO THE CURIOSITIES OF FLORENCE

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS WELCOME TO FLORENCE

In the heart of Florence, just a few steps away from the historic treasures of the city, you will find Rinascente: the ideal place to find the best in fashion, accessories and beauty and to taste the best gourmet foods. An exclusive shopping experience that brings together women’s & men’s fashion, a craft gallery with artisan brands, a café, a restaurant, a wine bar and a terrace with a breathtaking view over the Duomo.

FLORENCE | PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

E NJOY YOUR SHOPPING SHOW THIS COUPON TO GET 10%* OFF YOUR PURCHASES

-10%* -12%**

*Exclusively for foreign individual customers upon presentation of a valid foreign passport. Valid except for regional restriction regulations and only on brands which support the initiative. The discount cannot be combined with other promotions and does not apply on cafeterias, restaurants, and on food market purchases. Valid until December 31, 2020. **Tax free: If you are resident in an Extra-EU country and you have spent at least 154.94 euros in the same day, you are entitled to a refund of 12% on the total amount of your purchase.

FLAGSHIP STORES MILAN | PIAZZA DUOMO • | VIA DEL TRITONE

STORES ROME | PIAZZA FIUME TURIN FLORENCE CAGLIARI MONZA DICOER Florence February 2020

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from Florence. O NOVOLI VIA ENRICO FORLANINI C VIA DELL'ARCOVATA VIA AND N G V. RASTRELLI PIAZZA V FLORENCE CITY GUIDE UC S. Antonio AI V N V I A M A F F E I PIAZZA DELLE AC I S R OC E L A I V . COLA PIETRO E ® REA CO da Padova al Romito F. Parrocchiale S. Marco Vecchio MEDAGLIE VIA SANDRO PERTINI V S ANN S

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VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DEL Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO RIESTE LARGO dell'Ascensione TANUCCI CA 40 SIGHTSEEING Villa Fabbricotti G. BARTOLINI V I A T LO ContentsVIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R NI V I A G . B A R B E R A FEBRUARY 2020 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE TERZOLLE A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA ACCIO INI V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA ACCIO T PIAZZA MUGNONE A VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA AR OCC B R O N OPP GIAMPIETRO E V I A B E Z Z E C ROT M DLEI A I V I I B VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI Parrocchia Immacolata T OFF V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIEUSSEUX& MUSEUMSe San Martino a Montughi V I A L NN V IES V. F. C I A VIA GAETANO M VA VIA SAN DONATO V D I V I I A T V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLEIO QUERCE I O S T Parco Liceo A T R N Leonardo da Vinci A C . R E O C O V. O. DA PORDENONE VI N IA G VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I M PA G N I Chiesa della B.V. M G LARGO ILANE Madre della

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RFA NA CV I its main landmark attractions. the city that are able to satisfy C B VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI PIAZZA VIA VNES AIRN EI V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I N I V I D I ONACCI GIACOMO OR AI A L I PIAZZA I A A VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O AV I D ELO V E VITTORIA O FIB VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O Between I A V I X A. GARBASSO G IROLI V IA M A R A G L IA N O of the historyE SC of V VIA DELLE FORBICI EUCCI U . ARD DA ER LO VX I TO VIA M L G anyVIA ANTONneed: FRANCESCO DONI cities of art, dreamy . PIAZZA VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI S TAT VIA DELLA CERNAIA A U SCA I VIA FILIPPO PACINI VIA ANTONIO COCC COR I SE V. A V GALILEO S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O M A T MUGNONE N FERRARIS VIA DEI CA O VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica ELLI A LEON G GO I I R V Parrocchiale U TO Istituto Comprensivo Statale I V I A D E G ONNA TOS I V H V. G. B. AMICI I I Sacro Cuore History M S PI VIALE ALESSANDRO VOLTA M VIA ENRICO PETRELLA al Romito V AI HI A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI T OI VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI V LARGO V. MAD RA Florentine Jews. PONTE ROSSO and C A I V. A. NICOLODI D V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E L U PIETRO Golf Club Parco Di Firenze countryside, natural thermal VIA XX SETTEMBRE OTTI HOT DATES V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E 8 E V I A C O S S E R I A NGHI CAPEI V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I ELLI C . Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena A G OI R D A N O CIN VIA A. BERTANI L AL N D VIA G. BAND

VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA Legend VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON PA V. ELBANO GASPERI V. G. I PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI C A JOURNEY INTO THE CURIOSITIES OF FLORENCE VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI A NTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO B O T T I C V. A. IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T This month’s round-up of art springs and medievalRE DItowns. SAN EOL NA E V I LEOPOLDO O A R N O A MARTIRI N P IACOPINO V. S . PIAZZA E S I A DELLE NOBILI VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O VIA V AI M GIOVANNI RDO SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA A V IA C A S S IA I LE ANTONELLI V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI I VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO VIA D. MA 44 ESSENTIALSGiardino FILIPP V AI A S FARDELLA V AI L E D E MI LI L E ELL della Fortezza VI TELFIDA X A D A C C I O OLI DI TORREARSA P I exhibitions, traditional events V. G. MARCONI IR URNO O U NT V I A D E L T S C E R ELLIN A ELLATE VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO T D’AO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA C A P P PRAT IA NINO BIXIO VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE COVER ROZZI V VIA CAS PIAZZA SSANDRIA LUPI BO STA E N ChiesaGALLO di Sant'Agata V. VOLV Chiesa San Jacopino Information and tipsL VIA DEI CA I A AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO A 'A L S R O E VIALE SPARTACO DLAVAGNINI A PIAZZA VASARI VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO N A U N I VI M V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O F I SAVONAROLA The original Medici and music. AC A 22 TOP BRANDS O VIA G. PAISIELLO I IL N VIA O VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI RI VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE V POG Giardino F CATERIN V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O O P VIA PIETRO MARONC . A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O TO V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V VIA G. DOLFI GI A MARMORA N Campo Di R I S A A to experience the I Marte E guardian lions with spheres V I A C A V O V IA G U S T A V O Chiesa PIAZZA V VIAPIO FEDI PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E G VIA DE U Nostra Signora SO L D Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E I D del Sacro Cuore Stadio O Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI L Comunale VIA FONTEBUONI The best fashion designers O LE VIA ROSOLI E P P E S I R Franchi MONTIGNANO have been displayed since RUO M O F M Chiesa dei Sette Santi V. C. V IA V E N E Z IA D E N A A IUS O VIA BARTOLOMMEI TE Giardino VIA MASSA best that Florence RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIA ALFON V. G. BENIVIENI VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI N VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI N V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALE L L A A VIA DEI SETTE SANTI VIA DELLA FORTEZZA EGLI ARTISTI T V I A G 1789 at the Loggia dei C BAMBINE E BAMBINI PIAZZA R Cimitero I O DI BESLAN V AI M for your high-end shopping. INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di VIA PIE O della Misericordia GIFTPasserella dell'IsolottoGUIDE B B AI VIA D 13 S. Giovanni VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N R dei Cavalieri ANTONIO MICHELI Lanzi,VIA MASSA . A has toATELLO offer. Giardino S A C C OI VL. T. MAMIANI R V AI M V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIA SAN GALLO VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E I VIA CITTADELLA DEL P VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI N V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I I V O DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE Giardino IA A Photo © Shutterstock.comVIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI V LG. PORTA A Take advantage of your stay di Valfonda N N E L L I P LEOPOLDA ONTANELLI Teatro dell’Opera A D N O F L A V EI R C A P IV V I A G U E L F A M Giardino V. dei Semplici VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO A Z N E A F A VIA A Convento T IA G.LA PIRA VIA PIO FEDI di San Marco V ANTI VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA Firenze Fiera San Giuliano RA F Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI VIA GINO CAPP P O O V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda REPA N I PORTA AL LO D O VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO L'ARCOLAIO in Florence to enjoy a pick L V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I FASHION OUTLETS A LARGO L 30 G E V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE D San Barnaba V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI PIAZZA IA SANTA SAN MARCO Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE V SAN VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI PIAZZA IA VIA SAN BARTOLOMEO V V AI M Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale ADUA B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I V AL GIGNORO EM U I F A I V IA G U E L F A V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI Palazzo Corsini sul Prato Chiesa A of the best high-quality items.A R N O Several of the best shopping S A C C OI San Jacopo di Ripoli La SS. Annunziata DONATELLO VIALE MANFRE VI di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI A DEI FALC I Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V Chiesa NOR degli Inglesi V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Casa di Riposo PIAZZA episcopale americana Galleria dell’Accademia BORGO PINTI UCCI della Beata ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO DE’GI V IA V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale Museo Archeologico V CENTRALE SANTISSIMA NTI V.Z VIA R AI L E M STAY IN TOUCH V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO D E ANNUNZIA ZINI VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZI Stazione Ferroviaria U destinations not far fromV IA M O N T E B E L L O Florence, Firenze G L AZ Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA VIA DELL I Nelson Mandela Forum V IA T O R C IC O D A I V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A A L F A N I P E M LI » OR A L T A VIA MORTULI Giardino VIA BENEDETTO VARCHI IN V AI S O L F E R NI O MAP PAGES’ 46-47SO ERVI Spedale degli Innocenti TI VIA DEL FRANCIABIGIO ARI degli Orti Oricellari PIAZZA G A ’ S V I ENT V I A C A V O C VIA MILAZZO DELLA STAZIONE I I VIA G. DA MONTORSOLI L A N O C E DE E R V AI O D EA www.whereitalia.com/florence . D A COVERCIANO VIA DEL CANTOB DEI NELLI VIA AUGUSTO NOVELLI A VIALE GIUSEP V. DELLA RONDINELLA V. DEGLI OLEANDRI VIA BERNARDO RUCELLAI VI A V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI MORTULI VIA Centro Lingustico M A S V. D. AZALEEV. D. L U N G A R N O D E L P I G N O N E offering discounts year-round. terina da Palazzo VI INI THE FLORENCE a VI 14 .C iena Rotonda del Brunelleschi V I A D E L L A S a S Medici Riccardi O d P. DI MADONNA Museo I V. D. ORTI ORICELLARI . C B O R G O P I N L V I A B . B A N D I N E L L I V C PIAZZA VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O DEGLI Leonardo da Vinci A C VIALE MANFREDO FA L’ISOLOTTO V. R Basilica A V AI D E G L IA VIALE BERNARDO SEGNI V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O P. DELL'UNITÀ ALDOBRANDINI PIAZZA L FILIPPO Download all issues DEGL L VIA BERTOLDO DI GIOVANNI C A

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A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® [ SIGHTSEEING] WELCOME TO ITALY ® MORE AT PAGE 40 whereMAGAZINE Florence www.whereitalia.com/florence MAP PAGES Dear Visitor, Top in town 46-47 Welcome to Florence! PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE Our country has been a world tourism destination Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. 1 3 for more than 500 years, even before the word T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 ‘tourism’ was coined in the XIX century. Now that [email protected] www.whereitalia.com/florence more than one billion tourists travel throughout PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF the world annually, Italy is the fifth most visited Andrea Jarach Andrea Jarach country in the world with 58.3 million tourists. [email protected]) Publisher And it’s not a coincidence. MANAGING EDITOR ® Where If you’re here on a pleasure trip, you already know Alessandra Finzi ([email protected]) why Italy has such enormous appeal. If, on the CONTRIBUTORS other hand, you’re here for business, look around and let Where® be Carey Bernitz, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, your guide. You can use our magazine as a manual to discover and Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Language Consulting enjoy the country’s most unique aspects. Whether it’s a question of Congressi, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli history, beautiful landscapes, the number of different experiences ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock available, the food, or the warm, friendly people, remember that 6 2 CARTOGRAPHY the diversity of this unique country is embodied within just a few City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 kilometers: from the north to the south, from the east to the west, Fast Trains Network Map: Dmitry Goloub - from the sea to the mountains, from the countryside to the art cities. © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 Don’t forget that only a few kilometers from where you are now, MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, you can enjoy the experiences of a lifetime. Daniele Misrachi, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni To make sure you don’t miss them, consult Where®. ([email protected]) We’re in love with Italy and we want to share this love with you. ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto ([email protected])

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HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER SEASON MOOD IN FLORENCE PHOTOS © Maria Granata ([email protected]) DUOMO AND CUPOLA seat of civil power and social heart of the PONTE VECCHIO CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the The official date of foundation of the current ([email protected]) in Florence was the largest Christian church seat of the Municipal Council of Florence), Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire in the world. Today the religious building, the the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the the bridge hosted greengrocers’, REG. TRIB. MILANO No.156 DEL 10/05/2018 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 official name of which is “ of Santa Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. prominent in the square are the Fountain of At the end of the 16th century, however,

Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Neptune and a series of statues of when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published , still the tallest construction in the city, Renaissance origin, representing one of the the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, in the next issue. is a symbol known all over the world. 1 most important sculptural cycles in the and they have been there uninterruptedly Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the world. The most famous is certainly to this day. 5 information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO Michelangelo’s (this is a copy, or in part is strictly prohibited. 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the whereas the original is conserved in the PALAZZO PITTI EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main Galleria dell’Accademia). 3 AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI WHERE® FLORENCE È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI FIRENZE WHERE® FLORENCE IS AVAILABLE IN FLORENCE’S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS components of the complex of Santa Maria The symbol of wealth and power, the FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green GALLERIA DEGLI building was inhabited by the Medici, then , the majestic square-based bell tower, One of the most famous museums by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by in the world on account of its extraordinary Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. Where® magazine climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, collections of ancient sculptures and The original architecture dates back to the and the where® logo are registered from where you can enjoy extraordinary views paintings (from the Middle Ages to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its MVP trademarks of Morris 2 Morris Visitor Publications Visitor Publications. of Brunelleschi’s Dome. modern age). first owner. The building is located Oltrarno, February in Florence is a quiet period, when visits to museums and artistic sites are pleasant and The Gallery occupies the first and second at the foot of Boboli Hill.

LANDSCAPE NATURE PHOTO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM LANDSCAPE NATURE relaxing. Clear skies blown in by the tramontana north wind and bitter cold can suddenly turn the MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

© PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA floors of the large building erected between The are one of the most damp rainy climate on its head. And if you feel the cold when walking in the street, you can always MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III AND PALAZZO VECCHIO 1560 and 1580 based on a project by important examples of Italian-style gardens resort to the appropriate street food: warm lampredotto, caldarroste, castagnaccio. 4 6 PHOTO PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV This is the central square of Florence, the Giorgio Vasari in the world.

4 WHERE FLORENCE I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 5 WHERE NOW | LANDMARK THE FOUNTAIN OF NEPTUNE

“The Biancone”, the white giant in Piazza della Signoria In the middle of Piazza della Signoria, beside Palazzo Vecchio, stands the Fountain of Neptune, created by Bartolomeo Ammannati and by Giambologna between 1560 and 1565. In 1559 Cosimo I de’ Medici announced a competition to build the first public fountain in Florence, in which the most important sculptors of the age took part. From among the projects submitted, Ammannati’s Neptune was chosen as it perfectly glorified the maritime successes achieved by the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Indeed the similarity between Neptune’s face and that of Cosimo I de’ Medici himself is emblematic of this. The colossal figure of the God of the Sea made of white Carrara marble on a chariot pulled by four horses stands on a pedestal decorated with the statues of Scylla and Charybdis. He is surrounded by three Tritons and by sea divinities, each of which has a procession of bronze nymphs, satyrs and fauns at its feet, masterpieces of Florentine mannerism created by Giambologna. An aqueduct was specially built to bring water to the fountain. This went downhill from the spring located Oltrarno, crossing the river on what today is Ponte alle Grazie, and flowed towards Piazza delle Signoria into Borgo dei Greci. The fountain was inaugurated on the occasion of the wedding on 10 December 1565 between Francesco I de’ Medici and Grand Duchess Joanna of Austria. At first Neptune’s statue was not particularly appreciated by the Florentines, who mockingly nicknamed it “Il Biancone” (The White Giant) on account of its excessive whiteness due to the use of highly expensive Carrara marble. The fountain has suffered damage on several occasions over the centuries: in the 16th century it was used as a washbasin and was subjected to vandalism, which is why a special protective handrail was fitted in 1592. One of Giambologna’s satyrs was stolen during the Carnival in 1830, was never found again and therefore had to be remade. More recently, in 2005, the fountain was defaced by vandals. ALESSANDRO COLLE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PHOTO ©

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TRADITION

THE MATCH OF MATCHES ► On 17th February 1530, in 17 a Florence besieged by the FEBRUARY troops of Charles V, in order to challenge the enemy it was decided to play a football match in (but the game was : a rather violent form of rugby). That match is re-evoked on the same date every year in a competition between two teams: the Whites (from the Oltrarno) and the Greens (from this side of the Arno), and kicks off after the parade of the traditional Historical Procession of the Florentine Republic through the streets of the centre. A unique occasion, not to be missed!

Calcio Storico. The Match of the Siege Piazza Santa Croce (arrival of the Historical Procession 3pm) www.calciostoricofiorentino.it PHOTO © ABOUT64/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

FEBRUARY PHOTO © GIANNI VANNUCCHI

Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA

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WINE ENTERTAINMENT FASHION AND COSTUME RAISE YOUR GLASSES FROM 16 (OF CHIANTI) CLEOPATRA’S ► Numbers and spaces 20 23 FEBRUARY SANDALS TO have almost doubled 17 19 FEBRUARY FERRAGAMO after the great success of last year DECEMBER APRIL ▼ Dozens of models AT THE CENTRE for the appointment with “Chianti 2019 2020 of footwear tell of the OF DANCE Lovers”, the Preview promoted countless roles the shoe ▼ For four days Florence becomes the by the Consorzio Vino Chianti and has played in the West from antiquity to the present day. the Consorzio Tutela Morellino di capital of dance with Danzainfiera, which Genuine protagonists of the exhibition itinerary, consisting of for 15 years now has been the largest Scansano, which is open to the public around 80 works, are the footwear items used between the 5th for the sixth consecutive year. and most original international fair event century BC and the 4th AD, as revealed by precious works of art devoted to dance and dancing. Hosted Over 150 wine producers meet to and original relics. But the shoes of Ben Hur and the Gladiator present their outstanding products to at the historic Fortezza da Basso, this are also very charming and attractive, as are appointment is devoted to professionals lovers of good wine. Open for tastings the more recent fashion creations inspired between 4pm and 9pm. of the sector, ballet dancers, schools, dance by the classical world and created by companies and a public of enthusiasts. Chianti Lovers - Preview 2020 protagonists of contemporary fashion In addition to the presentation of the Fortezza da Basso. Viale Filippo Strozzi, 1 such as Emilio Pucci, Salvatore Ferragamo technical innovations, every day stages, www.consorziovinochianti.it and Yves Laurent. performances, competitions and contests, At the feet of the gods. Ancient auditions, meetings, exhibitions, parades, footwear and its fortunes castings take place and there are hundreds in 20th-century culture of hours available to try out classical steps or Museum of Costume and Fashion, identify the trends of the moment. Pitti Palace. Piazza Pitti DIF Danzainfiera 2020 - Make it possible www.uffizi.it EVENT Fortezza da Basso. Viale Filippo Strozzi, 1 www.danzainfiera.it

NOTES AT THE PHOTOGRAPHY 20 MUSEUM Three centuries FEBRUARY ◄ of music for single PICASSO guitar relive in the wide-ranging AND WOMEN solo recital by Eugenio Della ◄ The unusual bond Chiara, a highly-appreciated 30 1 of friendship between performer who is active in NOVEMBER MARCH Pablo Picasso and intense concert activities all 2019 2020 Edward Quinn over the world. With originals enabled the great and transcriptions of famous photographer – one of the few who were accepted by the guitarists (such as Andrés Segovia Spanish genius – to photograph him at work and in his and Francisco Tárrega), in the private life. The exhibition – which includes around eighty programme are the great names photographs taken over a twenty-year period – tells of of the literature for guitar, such an intimate and private Picasso, revealing his complex as Paganini and Tárrega, but also relationship with the world of women: the great master Schubert, Haydn, Mozart and is portrayed with his women, lovers and friends, with his Castelnuovo-Tedesco. Entry is children, the fruit of many different passions over the years, free but places must be booked but also with the many friends and acquaintances who in advance at the website of the populated his canvases, as well as sumptuous feast tables Opera del Duomo. and beaches by the sea. An unconventional and authentic image of the artist “Note al Museo”. Three centuries through the images of one of the leading photographers of of music on six strings (9pm) the 20th century. Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, Sala del Paradiso. Piazza San Giovanni Picasso. L’altra metà del cielo. Foto di Edward Quinn Déjeuner at restaurant Nounou. Picasso and his daughter Maya. Golfe-Juan 1954. operaduomo.firenze.it/eventi Museo Mediceo, . Via Cavour,1 PHOTO © SAILKO WIKICOMMONS Photo Edward Quinn © edwardquinn.com www.eugeniodellachiara.com www.palazzomediciriccardi.it

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TRADITIONAL EVENTS IN FLORENCE ◄ RICHARD GINORI From the “Oriente Italiano” collection, 6 JANUARY 1 MAY 26 JULY available in 10 colour variations, the “Ming Vase Porpora” can turn a simple CAVALCATA DEI MAGI TROFEO MARZOCCO-SBANDIERATORI FESTA DI SANT’ANNA GIFT dinner into an extraordinary journey. A historical re-enactment of the Epiphany A contest between historical groups of A secular and religious festival held near when Three Wise Men brought gifts flag-wavers organized by the “Bandierai the church of Orsanmichele, in which the Here the brand merges exotic beauty of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the degli Uffizi di Firenze”, which takes place figure of Saint Anne, co-patron saint of the with Italian elegance. Baby Jesus. A celebration that takes in Piazza della Signoria. city, is venerated. GUIDE www.richardginori1735.com place wearing splendid fifteenth-century costumes. THIRD SUNDAY IN MAY 10 AUGUST We’ve compiled a short guide PALIO DEL BALUARDO FESTA DI SAN LORENZO offering ideas for him and A crossbow shooting competition to It takes place in the morning with a for her. A great opportunity ► DAMIANI commemorate the birth of the Florentine “Historical Procession of the Florentine to spend some pleasant The ten years of success of the “D.Side” Republic on 16th May 1527, the date when Republic” from the Piazzetta di Parte Guelfa collection are celebrated by the brand with the Medici were expelled from Florence. through the streets of the historic centre to moments browsing the essential a solitaire ring created jointly by Valenza’s The competition is held at the Bastione the Basilica di San Lorenzo. In the evening, destinations for luxury shopping master goldsmiths and by Brad Pitt. known as the Fonte della Ginevra. in Piazza San Lorenzo. or romantic gift-giving in A masterpiece of contemporary jewellery where the two concentric white gold the centre of Florence, while and platinum circles are united by pairs ® 23 MAY END OF SEPTEMBER enjoying its beauties. Where of brilliant cut diamonds. www.damiani.com LA FIORITA BACCO ARTIGIANO guarantees that you won’t leave A Florentine tradition celebrating the A traditional Festival of Wine and the

RITRATTO DI ANNA MARIA LUISA CON I FIORI, OPERA ANTONIO FRANCHI, C. 1682–1683. RITRATTO outstanding products of the territory. empty-handed! ANNA MARIA LUISA DE’ MEDICI burning at the stake of Dominican preacher Fra Girolamo Savonarola, a controversial Concomitant entertainment events are figure in the city’s history. A wreath of also held to mark the occasion. flowers is laid on the plaque dedicated to ◄ VACHERON CONSTANTIN 18 FEBRUARY him in Piazza della Signoria, after which The “Historiques” line reinterprets some iconic ANNIVERSARY OF THE DEATH OF THE rose petals are thrown into the Arno from examples of the design house’s heritage ELECTRESS OF THE PALATINATE Ponte Vecchio. in a modern vein: the “American 1921” model, Celebration of the last heir of the Medici dynasty, Anna Maria Luisa: the presence in in the variations of platinum, pink gold Florence of extraordinary artistic treasures 24 JUNE and yellow gold, expresses rigorous technical including the Uffizi Gallery, the Palatine refinement and bold aesthetics. Gallery and the Gallery of the Academy FESTA DI SAN GIOVANNI and FINALE DEL www.vacheron-constantin.com is all due to her. To mark the occasion, CALCIO STORICO

some municipal museums allow access A contest that has taken place in Piazza SHUTTERSTOCK.COM free of charge. Santa Croce for 600 years on the day of St. , the patron saint of the city. Highly competitive, it combines PHOTO © 25 MARCH football, rugby and wrestling and is held as FESTA DI SAN LORENZO ► CHANEL the culmination of a tournament between CAPODANNO FIORENTINO “Rouge Allure” is an exclusive creation teams from the city’s neighbourhoods: The Florentine “Old New Year”, celebrated for an intense, satin and radiant make-up White from Santo Spirito, Red from Santa 8 OCTOBER since before the advent of the Gregorian that guarantees it is perfectly durable. Maria Novella, Green from San Giovanni Calendar (1582), with a parade through FESTA DI SANTA REPARATA To combine with “Le Crayon Lèvres” in the and Blue from Santa Croce. the central streets of the city in historical At Santa Maria del Fiore each year the same shade for perfectly defined lips. ceremony is held of the offering of candles costumes. www.chanel.com in the crypt. According to the legend it was thanks to the miraculous intercession EASTER of Saint Reparata that the Florentines succeeded in repelling the siege of the SCOPPIO DEL CARRO Ostrogoths in 406 AD, an event that marked ▲ LA PERLA A popular secular and religious the triumph of Christianity in Florence. Sensual red stretch tulle petticoat, tradition that dates back to the time embellished by intricate Leavers lace ◄ VALENTINO of the Crusades. A procession with details; completing the look are the The “Blacknet Valentino Garavani” calfskin percussionists and flag-wavers in END OF DECEMBER scalloped edges and the seductive sneakers that are part of the “Love Lab” historical costumes, city officials transparent finish. Also available FESTA DEGLI OMAGGI capsule collection are a real hymn to love. and representatives of the clergy, in the colours Pink, Black and White. An ancient folkloristic event in which the Against the backdrop of unmistakable accompanies a cart with a pyrotechnic On sale at Rinascente. tower from the church of SS. Apostoli “Procession of the Florentine Republic” rouge pur, essential and poetic, appear www.rinascente.it – www.laperla.com to Santa Maria del Fiore, where it is addresses the civil and religious authorities the words of a verse taken from set alight. BACCO ARTIGIANO to wish them good luck during the festivities. Dante Alighieri’s “Divine Comedy”. www.valentino.com

12 WHERE FLORENCE I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 13 WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS SHUTTERSTOCK.COM SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © ANYAMUSE /SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ANYAMUSE The Liturgical Clock The ox head

of Santa Maria Novella PHOTO on Santa Maria del Fiore PHOTOS ©

PHOTOS ©

f you think that Florence is just bovine animals that contributed to the what you see, a triumph of art, transportation of heavy materials used in museums and history, then we the construction of the Duomo with their have some good news for you. In strength, on the other, according to popular fact, in addition to the David, the legend, it tends to be associated with the Uffizi and Brunelleschi’s Dome, evidence of a betrayal. In fact the story is told the Tuscan capital is full to overflowing with that the master builder of the Duomo had an little treasures – with the associated curious affair with the wife of a jealous tailor whose Ianecdotes – that are still all to be discovered. shop was opposite the Cathedral and that, How? To find them, all you need to do is when he discovered the adultery, the tailor look around, maybe with one or two little reported the relationship to the Ecclesiastical suggestions as to some places to stop. We Court, forcing the two lovers to end it. As a • THE • have created a little list of curiosities that you gesture of revenge and a perennial reminder didn’t know about Florence especially for you, of his rival’s condition of betrayed husband, together with some appetising destinations right opposite the tailor’s shop the master to stop for a snack as you search around. builder himself sculpted the statue of an ox, Then, camera – or mobile phone – in hand, which is the quintessential symbol of animals STEVE LOVEGROVE / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM you can begin your “treasure hunt”. with horns, in other words, cuckolds (www.operaduomo.firenze.it). If you then Florence PHOTO © Treasures in the heart enter the Duomo and turn your back to the altar, your eyes cannot fail to notice YOU of the historic centre an unusual clock above the main door of No panic if you’re worried that your tour the Cathedral. Painted by the fifteenth- doesn’t involve a stop at the Duomo, as century master Paolo Uccello, the Liturgical the itinerary starts right there. In addition Clock of Santa Maria del Fiore attracts to being one of the sites symbolising the attention for an amusing detail: its hands in city, concealed behind the majesty and fact move anticlockwise. This is because in don’t expect the ornamental quality of the Cathedral Paolo Uccello’s time the day had starting in of Santa Maria del Fiore there are some the evening and the hours were counted With a selection of anecdotes, unusual architectural details, monuments and historical and curious decorative elements. Observing one following the liturgical calendar, which also cultural curiosities, Where® Florence invites you to discover the city from an original perspective Traces of the past days of Ponte Vecchio of the sides, if you keep your eyes peeled envisaged the variable length of hours according to the seasons. So don’t trust the by telling you some things you didn’t know about Florence. can still be glimpsed when sailing along you will perceive an ox head sculpted in the Arno on a small boat. Some holes the marble, right on the top of a column Cathedral clock if you want to know the along the arches of the bridge reveal facing Via Ricasoli. The meaning of this exact time or you could well be deceived. the market’s rudimentary waste disposal BY GIULIA MINERO system, which meant that this waste sculpture is ambiguous. While on one hand it Then continue your itinerary towards Via was literally thrown into the water. is thought that it is a tribute to the numerous degli Strozzi and look for the statue of a

14 WHERE FLORENCE I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 15 WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS Perseus

little black devil carved on a corner of he was creating his masterpieces. If all this large cart hauled by oxen The nearby Florentine bridges crossing Palazzo Vecchietti. Created by Giambologna wandering around has made you hungry, that is used for the traditional the Arno are also not free from their own himself – although the current statue is a before continuing your itinerary you can festival of the Scoppio del anecdotes. For example, did you know that copy, as the original one is conserved in plan a break at the Ristorante Frescobaldi Carro (see page 12) before the the famous , built to offer the the Bardini Museum – the statue recalls a Firenze, an institution in the city, where you Easter period is kept? To find Medici family a raised and safe passageway strange event that occurred in 1243. In fact can taste the best of quality Tuscan cuisine it, you just need to head to to reach the Uffizi, was built from a design the story has it that near to that corner of accompanied by a prestigious selection of Via Il Prato 48, near to Santa by Giorgio Vasari in just five months? Its the building, during a sermon by Saint Peter wines (www.frescobaldifirenze.it). Maria Novella Station. Here, construction takes us to another interesting for the crusade against the Patarini, a behind a tall, narrow wooden historical fact. At the same time as the creation black horse suddenly appeared, and this was door between two houses, the of the Corridor, the nearby Ponte Vecchio considered to be an apparition of the devil Just a little further on so-called “Brindellone” is kept in changed its function from being the area of and it was thought that Saint Peter Martyr If you’re not afraid of a good long walk, readiness for the festival. the city used for the meat, fish and fruit and Ristorante Frescobaldi Firenze had succeeded in stopping him with prayer. then you can move a little beyond the If you then head in the direction of vegetable market to a much more respectable After this anecdote, which has its roots in the historic centre to let your curiosity run free. the Lungarno, there is no shortage district reserved for Florentine jewellers. past, you then walk in the direction of Piazza For example, you can choose to combine of curiosities, starting with the Still remaining on the subject of bridges, the the right to burial in the Basilica, forcing the has it that here, in the 16th century, there della Signoria, more specifically towards a walk of discovery with a visit to one of strange balcony at No. 12 Bridge of Santa Trinita also merits attention. monks to bury him in a concealed location lived a young couple who were very much the . After admiring the the churches that symbolise Florence, the Borgo Ognissanti. If you Its current version, built at the wishes of in the church, the Chapel of the Noviziato. At in love, but whose love idyll was interrupted numerous statues contained in it, stop by the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella. Before look carefully at the supports Cosimo I de’ Medici and based on a design the time of his transposition to the current by war, which tore the young man from statue of Perseus with the head of Medusa entering, remember to carefully observe that for the balcony and the by Michelangelo in 1567, is embellished sepulchre, in 1737, when the tomb was the arms of his beloved. Day after day, the by Benvenuto Cellini and particularly by its on the sides of the entrance door there are balusters that compose it, you with statues in each corner representing opened it was discovered that it contained girl waited patiently at the window, but her back. If you look carefully, between the nape two strange spherical-shaped objects. An will notice that they are upside-down with the four seasons, in addition to the effigy no less than three people: Galileo and also husband never returned. It is said that the of Perseus’ neck and his helmet, among the armillary sphere and a sundial respectively, respect to normal architectural canons. To of a Capricorn as a reference to January, a young couple. Although legend identifies young woman never stopped waiting for thick hair, you can glimpse a man’s face that, the two astronomical instruments were made understand where they come from, let’s take the month that marked the beginning of the two bodies as Maria Celeste, Galileo’s him, even after death; that is why a window according to the popular imagination, is the by monk and court cosmologist Egnazio a step back in history. In 1530, in fact, a decree the reign of Cosimo I. If you go under the daughter, and Vincenzo Viviani, his faithful of the building is always left open, day and self-portrait of Benvenuto Cellini himself. Danti for his astronomical studies. These by the Lord of Florence Alessandro de’ Medici bridge by boat and pay careful attention you student, their actual identities have never night, through every season, as the ghost of A little further on, on the right of the front studies, among other things, contributed prohibited the construction of balconies in the can perceived two other statues: two large been discovered (www.museogalileo.it - the young woman awaits the arrival of her door of Palazzo Vecchio, you can see the to the defining and the introduction of the narrow city streets. This did not dissuade the ram’s heads. An ancient symbol of strength www.santacroceopera.it). beloved (www.palazzobudinigattai.it). Finally, engraving of a face on the wall, which is Gregorian calendar to replace the defective owner of the house – Cristofaro Baldovinetti and war, it was thought that one of these If you spend any time studying Renaissance moving towards Piazza della Santissima by now a little worn away by time. Here too Julian calendar that was previously used – from continuing to request authorisation protected the city from the flooding of the history, then the rivalry between the Medici Annunziata and the equestrian statue of there are many interpretations, although – which in fact had a misalignment of 10 to contravene the law. Alessandro de’ Medici, Arno and the other from Florence’s bitter and the Pitti families will come as no surprise Ferdinando I de’ Medici, you can try your the author is known and bears the name days with respect to the actual year. Special exhausted by such insistence, pronounced the enemy, Pisa. When you have crossed the to you. What could be new to you, however, luck by admiring the marble cartouche on Michelangelo Buonarroti. While some think guided tours enable you to discover prophetic sentence “Sì, alla rovescia” (Yes, the bridge and reached the Oltrarno, why not is the strange anecdote associated with the plinth. The representation of a queen that it represents the face of a convict in the these and other secrets associated with other way round), in order to deny his consent allow yourself a little culinary treat? Whether the façade of Palazzo Pitti, on which the bee – a metaphor for Ferdinando I – is pillory, another more colourful interpretation the astronomical instruments conserved with an ironic tone. But his words were taken you are looking for a snack, an aperitif or presence of two irregular stones stands surrounded by a swarm of bees in staggered is that it indicates the face of a “nuisance” in the Basilica (www.smn.it). Have you ever literally and the balcony was soon built… a fuller meal, the new Bistrot San Niccolò out. The story is told, in fact, that in order to concentric circles, a symbol of the hard- who used to interrupt Michelangelo while wondered, on the other hand, where the upside-down! could well meet your needs. Immersed in affirm his family’s superiority over their bitter working Florentine people. Popular stories an intimate atmosphere of yesteryear, you enemies, Luca Pitti had ordered two very tell that those who succeed in counting the can taste a selection of local meat-based visible stones to be positioned on the façade, bees without pointing at them and without dishes, platters of Tuscan cold cuts or menu one very short – a metaphor for the Medici touching the effigy will enjoy very good selections combining the great Florentine family – and the other almost ten metres fortune. You can then conclude your itinerary Museo Salvatore Ferragamo classics with influences from Mediterranean long, a symbolic representation of the value with a refreshing stop at the Gran Caffè San cuisine (Facebook: @sannicolobistrot). If, on of the Pittis with respect to their adversaries Marco, one of the most ancient bars the other hand, you want to treat yourself to (www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti). If, however, you in Florence, founded in 1870, where a glass of wine accompanied by some local have a weakness for love stories, then you you can taste a version of contemporary snacks, you can stop off at Signorvino, a must take a walk to Palazzo Budini Gattai Tuscan cuisine in a sophisticated setting wine bar overlooking the Arno, where you – formerly known as Palazzo Grifoni. Legend (www.grancaffesanmarco.it). can choose from a selection of over 1500 Italian wines accompanied by dishes from the Tuscan tradition (www.signorvino.com). A hippo in Florence Between history In the light of all these legends, it comes as no surprise to find out that Florence has its own and legend genuine hippopotamus. The embalmed specimen that is visible in the Museum of Natural History of the University of Florence - better known as the Museo della Specola – was If you have visited the Basilica of Santa in fact one of the animal species that populated the Boboli Gardens in 1677. A gift from Croce you will undoubtedly have noticed the an Oriental sultan to Cosimo III de’ Medici, a lover of exotic plants and animals, the hippo monumental sepulchre of . lived in the pool in the middle of the Florentine park alongside cages holding monkeys Yet contrary to what might be thought, this and parrots. Unfortunately for him, his stay was brief due to his difficulty in adapting to the SHUTTERSTOCK.COM has not always been the tomb of the famous Tuscan climate, which was so different from his natural habitat that he died in less than a The marble cartouche scientist. At the time of his death, in fact, due The equestrian statue of Ferdinando I de’ Medici on the equestrian statue month. www.msn.unifi.it – www.uffizi.it/giardino-boboli

PHOTO © to his heretical theories, the pope denied him

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seventeen historic districts that comprise the city compete against each other. The square is dominated by a series of buildings of inestimable historical and architectural value, including the 14th-century and the attached Torre del Mangia, with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella di Piazza, the Loggia della Mercanzia and Palazzo Sansedoni. But is not just : lose yourself along the picturesque medieval alleys, where you can purchase the local hand-crafted goods or taste the traditional panforte, the typical

Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied SONGQUAN DENG / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM fruit and pepper. And a few kilometres from Siena, another Lucca, Piazza dell’Anfiteatro PHOTO © town declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its and convents, you can enjoy beautiful views of removed from the tourist routes, rich in traces characteristic medieval architecture. It is the Florence and the Florentine countryside. If you and remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque unmissable , situated in the love panoramas, another unmissable spot is the medieval towns and culinary festivals. heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking small town of Settignano. round this small town, the 13th/14th-century The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for TUSCANY BIKING appearance of which is still practically its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, Would you like to discover the area around unchanged, is almost like going back in time. olive groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, Florence from a different perspective, more

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM San Gimignano is famous above all for its is around half an hour by car from the centre of on a human scale and in contact with medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at Florence. If you are lucky enough to be there nature? Then you can opt for a bicycle tour. one time and today are just fifteen, including between September and November you can Pedalling along the romantic olive groves,

Siena city panoramic skyline, countryside and rolling hills in a misty day. PHOTO © some in ruins and without their tops but still witness two key events for the economy vineyards, medieval town and , visible as part of the urban fabric. and culture of the territory: the harvesting taking in the perfumes and colours of the of grapes and olives. Tuscan countryside in ways that would the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move otherwise be impossible. After the effort of Renaissance squares and buildings and Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleys towards a wilder, more barren territory, that of pedalling, almost all the tours envisage rest Roman amphitheatres. and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them is easy, the Crete Senesi. Located in the area south- and refreshment with visits to wine cellars Nature and art The famous can also both on foot and on the numerous buses east of Siena, the crete are clay hills, the result and the tasting of wines, olive oils and local be easily reached from Florence in about departing from the city centre. Over the years of the continuous erosion of the sea sediments. specialities. If you are not particularly sporty an hour by train. Loved by tourists from the hill of Fiesole has been the source of These bare, softly undulating hills, with their but would still like to visit the outskirts of If Florence offers tourists f you choose Florence as your base, all over the world for its peculiar tilt, the inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, noble characteristic grey-blue colour and almost lunar Florence from this unique perspective, then the good news is that around an hour Tower of Pisa is in reality the bell tower of families, writers and entrepreneurs. From this appearance, are dotted with cypresses and you can choose a tour by Vespa, with that an unrivalled cultural and away by train, bus or car you will find the Cathedral, which stands in a unique privileged observatory, dotted with villas, farmhouses and still encapsulate the essence irresistible vintage touch that is undoubtedly historical heritage, its UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy monumental context, declared a UNESCO museums, archaeological excavations, churches of the most authentic Tuscany; they are far less tiring. Ask your concierge. surrounding area no less so. countryside, natural thermal springs, World Heritage Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. medieval towns and abbeys and Once you’ve completed your visit to this Here are some suggestions kilometresI of coastline for bathers. unbelievable square, if you have a little time for trips outside the city that left, you can relax with a walk along the Arno are able to satisfy any need. CITIES OF ART to the historic centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the the political fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing For more details ask right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range onto the square is , your concierge. from the Tuscan regional capital there are with graffiti by Giorgio Vasari, which today architectural wonders that will catapult you houses the Scuola Normale Superiore, one of BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany. the most prestigious universities in the world. About an hour by train from Florence is With a brief trip by coach from Florence you Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating reach Siena, one of the most loved medieval historic centres, surrounded by ancient centres in Italy, which is also included on 16th-century walls, today still practically fully the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s intact and walkable in their entirely. You can nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a renowned for its unique shell shape, for its

tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the architectural integrity, and because twice a SHUTTERSTOCK.COM SHUTTERSTOCK.COM benches. The picturesque historic centre has year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio

remained almost intact, including countless di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental Fiesole, Roman Theatre PHOTO © PHOTO © medieval churches, which have earned Lucca importance for the Sienese, which sees the

18 WHERE FLORENCE I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 19 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE CLOTHING & Aspesi W The Guidelines M The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran H E O MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold R . C ACCESSORIES Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, E T R R A V E L E at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the elegant details and natural materials. His current coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). Angela Caputi Giuggiù collections are still based on the original “no frills”

The boutique offers an extraordinary selection philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their SHOPPING of clothing items for every type of woman. In outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. This directory, grouped by category, is a list of addition, hats, bags and other accessories from Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat establishments recommended by the editors all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. of Where magazine and includes regular and designer Angela Caputi chooses these T: 055 287987. Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm- advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the articles personally to combine with and complete 7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, most popular luxury brands are grouped under her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 the separate category “Top Brands”, which elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open be found on page 22. Several unusual shops, Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Brunello Cucinelli stocking items and rarities for collectors or Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4 The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed aficionados in specific product categories, are up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian Anichini listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children the standard shopping sections. Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder where skilled artisan hands create elegant items Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the for newborns, children and youngsters using the generally included in the price of goods. production of high-quality cashmere knitwear best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible and today boasts top-level production with total to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. TAX-FREE SHOPPING look men’s and women’s collections. Today it is A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to seen as a model enterprise all over the world for its located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat and exported from the EU: before finalizing defining itself as “a humanistic company”. 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3 whether they are eligible for a tax refund. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3

Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Florence) and on Monday mornings. Ask your Concierge.

DINING Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). In the temple of the “Prince of Prints” € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. In the heart of Florentine shopping, the most authentic Made in Italy style, the expression of Italian elegance and creativity, finds its ideal location in the Emilio Pucci boutique. By Giulia Minero SIGHTSEEING Several places like the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria are symbols of Florence, hence our decision to list them under a t was the early 1950s when the Florentine The clever use of colour, the combinations >> Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20 separate category. The information provided Marquis Emilio Pucci created the fashion of which give the materials energy and T: 055 2658082. Map E4. on museums and monuments is verified as From California to Florence house of the same name, which was movement, is the expression of the most www.emiliopucci.com meticulously as possible. However, data such as I telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and immediately characterised by marvellous authentic Italian creativity. The footwear, clothing and accessories of the UGG® brand, founded in 1978 by an Australian the accessibility of sites are all subject to surfer on the coast of California, which has become an icon of style thanks to its leather and prints with lively colours. Inspired by natural However, the Emilio Pucci style does not change, on a seasonal basis and also due to landscapes, architecture and exotic cultures, stop at clothing alone, but also extends restoration work, museum loans or changes reversed sheepskin boots, find space in the brand’s first Italian boutique. A brightly lit space, the prints left an indelible mark on Italian to the world of accessories, with glasses, of management. Ask your concierge which has been created using a combination of wood, wrought iron and glass furnishings, with pastel colours and themes taking up the decorative elements of the #UGGLIFE F/W 2019 fashion that still endures today, earning footwear, sneakers, scarves, small leather ENTERTAINMENT Emilio Pucci the epithet of “Prince of Prints”. goods and bags. The new Dora bag (see Several venues offering food are included in campaign. Inside, the more traditional models stand alongside new footwear from the Classic Today the creations inspired by these photo), for example, available in large or mini this section. These are considered as meeting Revolution collection, which reinterprets classicism with a contemporary touch, inspired by iconic details find their location in the format and with different combinations of places rather than gourmet addresses and thus the vitality of San Francisco. Drawing inspiration from Classic Short II, Classic Mini II and Neumel explain our decision to list them here rather heart of Florence, in the boutique in materials and patterns in the inserts, has models by the brand, the collection includes thirteen renovated models. Stylistic research than under “Dining”. Via de’ Tornabuoni. Here, prêt-à-porter quickly become a must for the season. The with the use of new materials, decorative elements such as straps and zippers and the addition collections for the female universe, gaiety and joyful spirit of the Italian lifestyle All details are correct at the time of going to of wedges are combined with an in-depth study of comfort, reaching its peak in the new Miwo press but several details can change: ask your with clothing with fluid, essential lines, also find their expression in the world of sneakers, with a gritty design and avant-garde Vibram® soles. In addition to footwear, lovers of concierge to double-check all information. share the space with beachwear design and art, with exclusive proposals of shopping can also find a selection of outerwear and accessories. www.ugg.com and resortwear lines. accessories for furnishing and the home.

20 WHERE FLORENCE I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 21 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] Top Brands

CHANEL—www.chanel.com. MISSONI—www.misson.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. 77-79/r. T: 055 215774. Map F4 Fragrance & Beauty. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. 47-49/r. T: 055 298181. Map F3 Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; Inspired by the retro models of the 1950s, the GUCCI Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. sunglasses have mirrored lenses that give T: 055 2608931. Map F3 The rose and white gold POMELLATO maxi ring with faceted Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; a contemporary note to the shape with its vintage allure. amethyst belongs to the “Nudo” collection: a simple, Sun 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ MONCLER—www.moncler.com. contemporary style in a series of variations abounding in appeal. Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. T: 055 2670157. Map E4 Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am- www.albertaferretti.com. c/o Spazio A. DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. Open 2pm/3pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107/r. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. T: 055 219041. Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. T: 055 212995. Map E4 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E3 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. T: 055 292050. GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Open Map E3 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am- DIOR— www.dior.com. Women. Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 • POMELLATO—www. pomellato.com. 7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85. Open daily 10am-7pm. Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 1pm-7pm. T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 10am- Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open Via de’ Tornabuoni, 89-91/r. 2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm- T: 055 2669101. Map E3 daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 288539. Map E3 7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. DOLCE&GABBANA— T: 055 75927010. Map F4 T: 055 287931. Map E4 www.dolcegabbana.it PRADA—www. prada.com. HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli T: 055 286035. • Open daily 10am-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza Santa 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. Trinita, 1/r. T: 055 9040090. Map E4 daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 18/r. T: 055 2399909. T: 055 267471 Map E3 HOGAN—www.hogan.com. BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com. Map E4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- SAINT LAURENT monogram box bag with clasp Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. Open daily 10am-7pm. 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com decorated with the initials YSL in metal and T: 055 2741013. Map E3 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-45/r. Via della Vigna Nuova, 27/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. shoulder belt with omega square chain and tassels. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082. T: 055 9040100. Map E3 T: 055 219179. Map E3 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. Map E4 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Via Por Santa Maria, 70-72/r. www.ferragamo.com. Open daily Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.it T: 055 294909. Map F4 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. Via Porta Rossa, 40/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. T: 055 218275. Map F4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. T: 055 264254. Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am- Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com. 7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. T: 055 216227. Map F3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. ETRO—www.etro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- T: 055 2398688. Map E4 Palazzo Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1. Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. 7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Palazzo Rucellai-via della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. T: 055 2670086. T: 055 210856. Map F3 TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- Map E3 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. Map D3 7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am- 60/r. T: 055 219423. Map E3 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— 7.30pm.Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 266981. VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, Map E3 Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. T: 055 285832. Map F3 40/r. T: 055 212305 Map E3 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. T: 055 293142. MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. Map E4 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. FURLA—www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. T: 055 214133. T: 055 2396786. Map E4 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, 10/r (corner of piazza della Signoria). Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. T: 055 287761. BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. T: 055 2382883. Map F4 Map F3 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. T: 055 293811. MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.it. Map E4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am- 7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 43. CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open The new palette of “Felineyes Intense Eyeshadow Quad” eyeshadows by DOLCE&GABBANA The “foulard” prints by historic Florentine fashion house EMILIO PUCCI are coloured with ever new T: 055 290284. Map F3 Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. atmospheres. Like the palazzo pants, tops and shirts that are part of the spring/summer collection 2020, proposes eight colour harmonies with matte or shiny effects: a homogeneous Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. the kaftans such as this one are perfectly suited to loose, feminine outlines. and controllable powder lasting up to 8 hours. T: 055 292347. Map E4

22 WHERE FLORENCE I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 23 SHOPPING SHOPPING

all over Italy and abroad, with a particular focus on used as accessories by famous television and film FINE ART . www.enotecabonatti.it. Open Mon 3.30pm- producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of Antico Setificio Fiorentino 7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great Via V. Gioberti, 66-68/r. T: 055 660050. Off Map A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, thanks www.angelacaputi.com. Shop and workshop: Open Galanti also to its famous warping machine based on a design Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, Delicatessen and wine shop. Classic dishes as well by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the workshop has 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 • Boutique: Open Mon- as soups, pappa al pomodoro, ribollita, chicken been producing some of the most sumptuous silk Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, galantines, to eat in, under the porticoes outside or to brocades, damask, taffeta, and lampas in the world, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map F4 take away. Wide selection of wines and home-made 100% made in Italy. www.anticosetificiofiorentino.com. jams. Everything made with extra-virgin olive oil and Annamaria Cammilli Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via prime quality ingredients. www.gastronomiagalanti. A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, L. Bartolini, 4. T: 055 213861. Map B3 com. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-8pm. Piazza della it has been present with its creations in shop Galleria Romanelli Libertà, 31/r. T: 055 490359. Off Map windows and display cases all over the world for The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, The UGG ‘Classic Boom Buckle’ combines Giumella precious sculpture artwork for six generations in unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for sneaker and boot. A youthful, versatile VEGAN With recipes based on the products one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods of rings, necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often style crafted in Twinface sheepskin of the Florentine countryside, this delicatessen Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, drawing inspiration from nature and the floral world. and leather, with a fabric strap. offers organic zero miles food, made the same a meeting place for buyers and artists, where www.annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; day. Recipes with cereals and legumes, seeds and sculptors and their students carry out their work daily Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Vacchereccia, seasonal products. Among the specialties: reseitan RICHARD GINORI ANTICO SETIFICIO surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. Work 12/r. T: 055 2608617. Map F4 unchanged since the company first opened – stone-ground Tuscan durum wheat semolina with See this page. FIORENTINO See this page. is done by commission on original sculptures, chalk its doors, while others make use of advanced water, salt and lentils – plus vegan cheeses based on Aprosio replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and restorations. technologies and highly sophisticated machinery. walnuts, almonds, sunflower seeds, oats or rice flour. Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and www.raffaelloromanelli.com. Open Mon-Fri www.richardginori1735.com. Open Mon-Wed www.giumellavegan.it. Open Mon-Fri 10.30am-8pm. creates jewellery accessories and products for 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo San Frediano, 70. T: 055 10am-7pm; Thurs-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 12 noon- Via Lorenzo di Credi, 12/r. T: 393 8221084. Off Map decorating interiors, with glass beads from Murano Elena Mirò Société Anonyme 2396 0 47. Map C4 An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to curvy An independent shop of North-European conception 6.30pm. Via dei Rondinelli, 17/r. T: 055 210041. and Bohemia crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open Pegna women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò has been inspired by the underground atmospheres of the Leone Cei & Sons Map E2 Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r. T: With over 150 years behind it, this shop has become synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that hot-lazy neighbourhoods of London, Berlin and New Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in 055 210127. Map E2 Torchio (Il) part of Florentine history. Just steps from the Duomo, enhance every woman’s look with a contemporary, York (the name is a homage to Marcel Duchamp and dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting a historic drugstore with all kinds of Tuscan, Italian and Cassetti 1926 refined and ever new style. From dresses to outerwear, Peggy Guggenheim, who founded an avant-garde armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique models tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products international specialities: rare cheeses, salumi and In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the from trousers to accessories, to beachwear, the brand art gallery in New York called Société Anonyme from a rare and abundant archive. The production, with refined materials such as Florentine leather, prosciutti. Plus a vast choice of wines and imported Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both fine expresses the pleasure of dressing a woman’s shape in the 1920s). Located in the literary artistic district entirely made in Florence, is destined for private hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also products like spices, coffee, tea and chocolate. Open watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a studio with style. www.elenamiro.com. Open Mon-Sat of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of international homes, hotels and private clubs all over the world. devising new artisan articles with contemporary Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. pegna.it. Via that develops innovative projects with its own artisan 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. renown and niche brands, as well as its own men’s The carving, gilding, burnishing and lacquering materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio. dello Studio, 8. T: 055 282701. Map G3 collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. T: 055 2657725. Map F3 and women’s collection that is only sold in-store work is performed rigorously by hand following traditional procedures and using natural products com.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. Map F5 and online. www.societeanonyme.it. Open Mon Signorvino Giovanni Raspini and pigmentations. A huge department is dedicated 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862. 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. In the heart of the city just steps from Ponte Vecchio, Damiani In the beating heart of the fashion district, the to fabrics for furnishings, with a collection of fabrics Map G6 Niccolini, 3/f corner of via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/c/d. the shop has a choice of 1500 labels of selected wines Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based in still produced on ancient looms or limited editions, (Sant’Ambrogio District).T: 055 3860084. Map L3 from the best Italian cantinas, applying the same long goldsmithing tradition which it has always Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo and Florence) is or produced on request and based on customers’ FOOD & WINE SHOPS formula used in its 15 outlets across the country. interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a a genuine concept store that boasts a personalized Stefano Ricci designs. Qualified consultancy service provided on Caffè 1926 It also does simple quality food from the various refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary layout design where a 15th-century tapestry stands Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, with antiques and on the reproduction of period items. This bistrot in the Sant’Ambrogio district does a regions. The terrace has a wonderful view of the Arno spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani jewellery. out. Fine jewellery - with a unique personality, often the purest male elegance as the watchword. These, www.leonecei.com. Headquarters & Showroom: selection of Tuscan wines, Italian spumanti and and Ponte Vecchio. www.signorvino.com. Open daily Their collections are realized by master goldsmiths animal-themed, sometimes oversized or limited in short, are the values of the company founded in Via dei Federighi, 15. T: 055 2381870. Map D3 • champagne, served in a Bohemian atmosphere 9.30am-midnight. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. in full accordance with the best Italian tradition and edition - silverware, objects for the home, hand- 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife Claudia, which, now Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r. T: 055 2396039. Map D3 crafted white bronze creations, always having a style in its second generation, has become a successful amidst little tables and large windows. Huge T: 055 286258. Map F5 admired throughout the world. www.damiani.com. that is midway between minimalism and classicism international group. From clothing (jackets, suits and Papiro (Il) selection of over 380 makes of rum, unique in the Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ as the common denominator. From the design to the high-fashion sports items, but also shirts and ties) Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces whole of Florence. Open from lunch to after-supper, JEWELLERY & WATCHES Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E4 wax model to “lost-wax” casting, to diamond-setting, to jewellery, from leatherwear to perfumes and the objects drawing their inspiration from the Florentine also hosts events. cafe1926firenze.com. Angela Caputi Giuggiù Dodo each piece is entirely hand worked. Open daily SR Home and SR Junior collections, Stefano Ricci tradition of marbled paper (diaries, address books, Via G.B. Niccolini, 30/r (Sant’Ambrogio district). COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 10am-9pm. www.giovanniraspini.com. Via Porta Rossa, represents Italian excellence all over the world, making photo albums, articles for the desk) in addition T: 055 2346296. Map L2 throughout the world. Sophisticated, original by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or 82/r. T: 055 2741501. Map E4 production entirely hand-made by qualified Italian to a line of classic leather accessories. www. Enoteca Bonatti creations made from unusual materials such as plastic collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the values of ilpapirofirenze.eu. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm- Luisaviaroma Opened in Florence in 1934, this family-run wine and resin, combined to create unique objects both in pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. www. the manufacturing tradition and the roots of the 7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Via C. Cavour, 49/r. T: 055 MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early 1930s shop offers a wide selection of wines and spirits from terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico Setificio 6499151. Map G1 by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisaviaroma is a landmark for Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the San Frediano lovers of fashion and luxury the world over. A global Pitti Mosaici district that has produced precious fabrics since 1786 powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 million visitors Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite and today still uses the original ancient hand looms. a month, its Florence store also offers a digitalized Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. purchasing experience: instead of displaying the tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ Palazzo Tornabuoni-Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. garments, they have been replaced with interactive semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items Map E3 In the centre of Florence, in an old 17th-century building installations. Don’t miss the elegant terrace designed to provide coverings for walls, framed items and known as “Palazzetto Medici”, a few steps from the by Patricia Urquiola. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heart Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, DEPARTMENT STORES of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates of Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù. entire made-to-measure residential projects all over 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116. Map F3 Rinascente Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved by the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open Mon-Sat Marina Rinaldi In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place to international customers, are genuinely unique pieces 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ Pitti, 23/24. T: Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, home 055 282127. Map E6 of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide and design items. For women, proposals of the best it is also possible to purchase a selection of clothing items range of collections, featuring both contemporary Italian and international brands range from the classic Richard Ginori and accessories that complete the brand’s collections. and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal to the contemporary and for men from formal to smart Tradition and excellence in the high-quality basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags casual. Rinascente is a point of reference for luxury artistic manufacture of porcelain. Richard Ginori www.angelacaputi.com and accessories for a total look that exudes class shopping and for new brands, exclusive products and “artistic manufacture”, of 18th-century origin, Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. T: 055 292993. Map F4 the unveiling of innovations. www.rinascente.it. Open and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat creates, produces and sells pure porcelain in Sesto Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o Rinascente-Piazza Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della Fiorentino (20 km from Florence) using a great della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3 Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3 variety of procedures some of which have remained

24 WHERE FLORENCE I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 25 SHOPPING [ RINASCENTE]

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 2741573. control of the Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. Map E4 www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, The best shopping 52/r. T: 055 2396028. Map F5 Tax Free Fani Gioielli Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery and LEATHER Refund Guide luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of sale, in Cuoieria Fiorentina Florence and Siena. An extensive range of prestigious From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition of 1. value added tax jewellery brands, including Pomellato, Dodo and VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a on goods the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], typical of Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex and Tudor retailer. and services, and is part of the European Union’s this area of Tuscany, here unique, inimitable products www.fanishops.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat value added tax system. are created with extreme care and top-quality natural 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a materials. A vast range of leather handbags, travel T: 055 212075. Map E3 VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services bags and accessories (belts, wallets, briefcases…), supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. Massai Orafi for him and for her, offering excellent value for money. Another strong point is the personalization 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of of the products, organised to satisfy the tastes and • you are a non-EU resident; Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of requirements of customers, who can count Michelle for personal or • the goods purchased are intended the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made Obama among their number. www.cuoieriafiorentina. family use only and are carried in your luggage; pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds and others besides. EDITOR’S TIP A visit to the Nicola, 11. T: 055 6505091. Off Map 154,94 Euro (VAT included); workshop is a unique experience: on the top floor of Gianni Chiarini a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 years master • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression of goldsmiths have practised the ancient fretworking, should include a description of the goods purchased, ancient artisan wisdom in the creation of contemporary carving and engraving traditions typical of the your personal information as well as the details of bags and accessories, with an idea of pure design. Florentine goldsmithery art. www.massaiorafi.it. Open A fresh, modern and cosmopolitan brand, but at the your passport or any other equivalent document; Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via delle Terme, 13. T: same time sophisticated, which has its roots in the • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the 055 294800. Map F4 heart of Florentine beauty. giannichiarini.com. Open third month after the month that you bought them; Officine Panerai Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna • several specific customs formalities are Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. Map D3 Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of the complied with; fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique boasts Il Bisonte • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer a unique design and a strong identity that Spanish Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced by working within four months after the purchase was made. about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion with the idea of the “art workshop”. A space on the 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in Palazzo first floor is devoted to special sales and another is be shown at the customs exit point when leaving Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully hand- reserved for periodic exhibitions of watches from the EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, historical Museum; on the ground floor, a watchmaker belts and other accessories epitomising the best of into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs is at customers’ disposal to carry out repairs and share Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on In the heart of Florence, you’ll find Rinascente: the ideal place BEFORE checking in). his passion with Panerai enthusiasts. www.panerai. materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza sought-after vegetable tanned leather which has the to shop for the best in fashion, accessories, beauty and design, the original invoice San Giovanni, 14/r. T: 055 9040013. Map F2 , regularly endorsed by the advantage of improving with age. www.ilbisonte.com. where the renovation is in progress. The store has recently customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via opened at the second floor a new remarkable area must be returned within four months from the date In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4 when the document was issued. Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: the dedicated to men’s collections and shoes. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian ground floor is dedicated to sales, with three display PASSION SHOPPING retailer tables; the first floor has two rooms for reserved sales; (however, make sure that the shop you’ve AquaFlor the second floor has a fully equipped customer care chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax A perfume shop with the charm of past times, centre, where qualified Rolex technicians are available The Rinascente department store in Florence, products devoted entirely to women’s Free” sign in its window). dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture of to look after the precious timepieces. www.cassetti.it. located in Piazza della Repubblica, which fashion. A new guise for the department perfumes made using natural and rare raw materials, 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. personalisable through the choice of fragrances. A has been the commercial heart of the city store, which proposes, side-by-side, clothes immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods T: 055 2741044. Map F5 studio run impeccably by maître parfumier Sileno leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating since the Roman Age, is spread over a total for her from accessible luxury and advanced Tiffany & Co. Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. - www.aquaflorfirenze.com the passenger from having to return the invoice to area of 3,300 square metres with seven contemporary brands, ready to wear options, Located in the luxury shopping street par excellence, Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at 6. T: 055 2343471. Map H5 floors devoted to fashion, beauty, food and lingerie, bags, fragrances, jewellery, sunglasses, the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed in one of the most major international airports or main border crossings. beautiful Palazzi in the city. There is plenty of space lifestyle. As with the other points-of-sale shoes from luxury brands as well as urban Dr. Vranjes Most major department stores have Tax Free inside for gold and silver fashion collections, such as Home fragrances and elegant furnishing around the peninsula, the space is giving style sneakers. Refund offices ’Tiffany City HardWear’ and ’Tiffany T’, jewels with . accessories made by hand in Florence for more its look a makeover to make shopping even Don’t miss the brand-new second floor, with purest diamonds, the iconic engagement rings, design 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply than 30 years. Florence is home to the laboratories creations by Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso and more captivating and engrossing. The thread all the best of men’s clothing and shoes. the payment of a small administrative sum which and the headquarters of the Florentine home rigorously Swiss-made men’s and women’s watches. running through that is driving the renovation Foodies can enjoy the “Tosca&Nino, the directly deducted fragrance company founded and managed by is from the amount of VAT www.tiffany.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun the “nose”, the perfumer, namely chemist and of the Florentine store is artisanship, a taste of tradition” restaurant and bar, refunded to the traveller. 11am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. cosmetologist Dr. Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund Map C4 concept that is very dear to the city. The open from breakfast till after dinner, which Maria. In addition to the traditional production within a reasonable period of time, he or she restyling involves all the store’s spaces and will focuses on rigorously selected Tuscan Vacheron Constantin Boutique of ambient diffusers and “lamparfum” items, the be completed towards the end of 2020. After products to enable you to rediscover the should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte brand has diversified its production with linen, aforementioned companies. Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine watchmaking cosmetics, perfumes and gift boxes, also giving the restoration of the fourth floor, offering a pleasure of local food, from pappa 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded design house in the world, founded in 1755 in Geneva. a strong Florentine identity to the packaging, transversal shopping experience combining al pomodoro to ribollita. directly by customs offices. The façade of the boutique is also known for the inspired by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes.it. fashion, quality craftsmanship, design, beauty tabernacle with a painting of the Madonna with Child Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm- STORE: Mon-Sat 9am-10pm; Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund and Saint John that marked the presence of an ancient 7pm. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map products and food, the third floor featuring Sun 10.30am-8.30pm >> www.rinascente.it oratory of the Holy Sepulchre, which came under the • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. the Women’s Clothing and the Women’s ROOFTOP | RESTAURANT | CAFÉ: Piazza della Repubblica.

THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE Shoes areas truly is a hotbed for artisanal Mon-Sat 9am-midnight; Sun 10.30am-midnight T: 055 219113.

26 WHERE FLORENCE I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 27 SHOPPING

Via della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3 the accessories are exhibited, as in a museum. It has excellence on account of their quality raw materials • Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri several sites in Florence: Por Santa Maria, 16/r (open and centuries-old handicraft techniques, with the aid 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. daily 11am-7pm); Via della Spada, 16-20 (Open Mon- of modern technologies. The frescoed monumental Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: 055 241748. Map l3 Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm). environments - Sales Room, Green Room, Ancient Flagship Store: Via della Vigna Nuova 88/r. Open Apothecary and Sacristy - have been returned to Marioluca Giusti daily 10am-7.30pm. T: 055 2399527. Map D3 their former splendour thanks to restoration work. A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant www.smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della design objects for the table and more besides, in a Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. Map D2 style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic crystal di Santa Maria Novella glass and melamine collections are enhanced UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy in The Merchant of every year with new models with colour shades (established in 1221), the Officina Profumo- NEW The new boutique is structured into a vast ranging from white to black to transparent, to Farmaceutica is housed in a part of the Dominican range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, brighter colours such as fluo. Its products are convent complex of Santa Maria Novella and has completed by products for personal care, for the particularly appreciated by important international been open to the public for over four centuries environment and accessories. The essences are personalities such as the Princes of , King (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, beauty contained in packaging with designs inspired by Mohammed VI of Morocco, Steven Spielberg, products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets the glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, Valentino and the Missoni family. Its boutiques are and chocolates) are sold all over the world in 75 the single-brand store provides a personalized characterized by total white walls with niches where single brand stores and represent a production par layering service. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon-Thurs 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. T: 055 216559. Map E3

Valli Tessuti Alta Moda A reference point in Florence that offers its clientele the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by the most beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought- after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêt-à-porter and ceremonial attire both for men and women, but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. vallitessuti. com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 81/r. T: 055 282485. Map D3

SHOES Aquazzura Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand combines a typically European refined aesthetic sensibility with modern Latin American elegance. Aquazzura shoes have been worn by trendsetters, Hollywood stars, European royalty and fashion insiders around the globe. www.aquazzura.com. Open daily 10am- 7pm. Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. Map D4

Salvatore Ferragamo Situated in Florence’s main street for shopping, Valdichiana Outlet Village inside the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni (the company’s historic workshop since 1938 and the between shopping and culture site of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum), the Valdichiana Outlet Village, the Tuscan “Land of Fashion”, lies in one of the most beautiful, Ferragamo boutique hosts all its fashion men’s, women’s, accessories and perfume collections. distinctive and evocative corners of Tuscany, between the provinces of Arezzo and Siena, The brand represents Italian quality, contemporary a short distance from fabulous locations such as Cortona and Montepulciano and at the elegance, innovation and tradition. The boutique intersection of important communication routes such as the A1 (Valdichiana exit) and the occupies the entire ground floor of the building, Siena-Perugia dual carriageway (Bettolle exit). Inside the village, which is reminiscent of a inside large spaces decorated with 18th-century typical Tuscan town, you can find the most famous clothing labels from fashion and sport, frescoes. The wing of the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita hosts the “Ferragamo’s in addition to footwear, accessories, jewellery, items for the home and much more besides. Creations” corner with the exclusive footwear line There are 140 stores present, with discounts of between 30% and 70% throughout the year, that revisits some of the brand’s iconic models. all amounting to a complete, high-quality commercial offer. For example, it is possible to find www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Adidas, Asics, Baldinini, Borbonese, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, K-way, Gant, Gap, Guess, Palazzo Spini Feroni-Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4 Geox, Levi’s, Liu Jo Uomo, Lindt, Nike, Piquadro, Rebel Queen by Liu Jo, Replay, Samsonite, Skechers, Swatch, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger, The Bridge, Villeroy&Boch, Under Armour, UGG Us Polo Assn and many more besides. First single-brand boutique in Italy of the Californian lifestyle brand specialising in footwear. During the month of February, Valdichiana Outlet Village is even more convenient, due to A brightly lit space with colours and themes winter sales and unbelievable discounts on outlet prices. Furthermore, until 3 May 2020 taking up the decorative elements of the UGG it will be possible to visit the “China Legends” exhibition, where on display are 34 official 2019 campaign, in the heart of historic piazza della reproductions of statues of the famous Terracotta Warriors of X’ian, considered the Repubblica. Inside, the more traditional models stands alonside new footwear. www. ugg.com. 8th wonder of the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open 3pm-7.30pm: Tues-Sat 10-30am-7.30pm; Sun For info on opening hours visit www.valdichianaoutlet.it 11.30am-7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 30/r. T: 055 0945430. Map F3

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6852_VOV_Where_Florence_207x277_SALDI.indd 1 17/12/19 19:03 [ DAILY TOURS ] Fashion outlets

LUGANO best local food and wines are on offer. MENDRISIO Open daily 10am-8pm. • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the Not far from direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana NOVARA TRIESTE Florence, in MILANO Bettolle. Tuscany but also • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience in nearby Emilia- ALESSANDRIA offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round Romagna, don’t TORINO and further discounts during sale periods: ? miss a trip to PIACENZA MAR Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Fidenza Village Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, these shopping GENOVA Castel GuelfoADRIATICO BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger Under Armour FORTE destinations The Mall Sanremo and many others. DEI MARMI THE APPENNINI RIMINI ? MAR LIGURE LUCCA MOUNTAINBarberino RIDGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of offering discounts ? Designer Outlet PISA the restaurants and refreshments, a modern year-round. FIRENZE VENTIMIGLIA playground, the possibility of recharging your SAN GIMIGNANO? The Mall Firenze electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge LIVORNO Valdichiana ANCONA and, in the event of rain, the possibility of SIENA ?Outlet Village walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. The Mall Firenze www.valdichianaoutlet.it PERUGIA BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET • WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” retail price. from Florence.ROMA Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, near and “Noventa di Piave” close • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives TIRRENO direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. DirectNAPOLI bus Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door of The Bicester Village Shopping Collection® by office side. minivan service from centrally located hotels in Value Retail: a place where hospitality makes the • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. shoppingSARDEGNA experience memorable. The Village is Valdichiana Outlet Village Fidenza Village designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance located in the Emilia-Romagna region, 2 hours With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and and footwear) featuring your favourite brands from Florence. Open daily 10am-8pm. restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino Chloé (June 2018 Opening). • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS unique hospitality at the core of the services Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, The point where quality, style and convenience and with over 120 boutiques of the world’s is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, leading fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with prices (up to 70% off ), including Missoni, shopping. www.themall.it discounts of between 30% and 70% all year Jil Sander, Sergio Rossi, Marni, Vivienne round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located Westwood and many more. VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a 10am-8.30pm. gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge shopping experience characterised by quality at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is in delicious homemade pasta with fresh and convenience. It has several facilities and available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets Barberino Designer Outlet railway station. www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the

30 WHERE FLORENCE I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 31 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE TUSCAN CUISINE store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable Benedicta prices, combining traditional dishes based EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for Tuscan food the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan 0750600. Map F1 cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu based on locally sourced ingredients that changes Latini (Il) every two months depending on the season. Open Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine T:055 2645429. Map D2 tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked Bordino Trattoria with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from well as the big French labels. €€€. www.illatini.com Via the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3 crowded with both locals and tourists because of its quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are Locale Firenze traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of where by just descending a few steps you can travel Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13th- relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via century Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5 Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated cocktails or stay for dinner with Cammillo dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary Pappa col pomodoro A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r. Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) T: 055 9067188. Map H3 menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, CANTUCCI. The finger-shaped almond plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with Lungarno23 pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this biscuits are made by slicing up a long Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, roll of baked dough while still hot. the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come The dough is made with flour, sugar, rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, eggs, butter and raw almonds. Tuscans Map E5 because here the hamburger is accompanied by normally dunk their ’cantucci’ in a fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, fortified local wine called Vin Santo. Cibrèo Ristorante freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www. In Florence and in the area near the Market of lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. CIBREO. Dish for strong stomachs, Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating Map G6 Cibreo is a typical main course of well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and Florentine “poor cuisine” containing liver, regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no L’Ortone chicken hearts, crests, eggs, lemon juice fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie and onion. Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image district, opposite the charming street market, the of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus LAMPREDOTTO. This is Florentine seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, street food par excellence. It’s a cow’s fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo. including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try fourth stomach, known as the ’abomaso’, com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with cooked in a herb broth and most Tuscan culture and taste 2341100. Map L3 the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. commonly served in a panino soaked www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. T: 055 234 in the broth or topped with the local Da Burde 0804. Map L4 Her Majesty the Fiorentina, but also other breeds and humbler cuts. are the main dishes of the Regina The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and parsley-based green sauce. Bistecca, which has emerged in the spaces of a historic antiquarian bookshop. By Chiara Zaccarelli the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken Marione Trattoria PAPPA COL POMODORO. Soup made livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in the of stale bread (unsalted), tomatoes, Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan olive oil, value for money, the atmosphere has remained that the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded by egina Bistecca is in Via Ricasoli, twenty stop for a drink. The gastronomic offer focuses salt and pepper. of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, taglierini metres from the Duomo. Here, until on Bistecca alla Fiorentina, grilled on red-hot in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Tuscan cured RIBOLLITA. Soup made of stale bread, last year, was the Gonnelli antiquarian coals, with a careful selection of breeds, starting Piedmontese wines but also French, including some meats are among the most popular dishes. If you go kale and beans (borlotti, toscanelli or R fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com. Via bookshop, one of the oldest in Italy. When it - obviously - with Chianina IGP, and going on at the weekend it is advisable to book in advance, cannellini). ‘Ribollita’ - literally means Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map because there is usually a long queue of people moved elsewhere in 2018, Simone Arnetoli and to Marchigiana, to Scottish Black Angus, to boiled several times - derives from the waiting outside. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria- IO Osteria Personale fact that in the old days peasants used to Matteo Perduca decided to open their restaurant selections of other European meats. Alongside marione. Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3 In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still make a large pot and serve it, heated up, there. Although with a very different offer, the the “queen of meats” there is also room for conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, Opera over a number of days, each time tastier objective was to conserve this fascinating humbler, but no less tasty cuts, such as tripe, veal surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few than before. atmosphere in order to provide a gratifying ribs and lampredotto, but there is also fish on modern tavern that has a preference for the products steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera SCHIACCIATA. In Florence you’ll find this experience by combining food and history. offer: baccalà, anchovies, cuttlefish and salacca, of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and simple focaccia baked in a wood oven So the walls of Regina Bistecca have been depending on the season. And to finish, there is way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring and dressed with olive oil and salt at any decorated with artworks belonging to the also a section devoted to hamburgers, standing In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and background of the most important operas, you can baker’s, but of course everyone has their collection of the Gonnelli Bookshop and with out among which is pulled pork, made with seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it. taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the own preference: soft and well oiled, crisp works by contemporary artists; space has been shoulder of pig cooked at a low temperature. Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4 traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar and salty, or made with ancient grains. found on the bookshelves for a wide selection deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; La Ménagère (C.Z.) closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso of wines, mainly Tuscan, while the entrance is >> www.reginabistecca.com A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2 occupied by an American bar where you can Via Ricasoli, 14r. T: 055 269 3772. Map G2 combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design

32 WHERE FLORENCE I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 33 DINING DINING

Osteria Badalì cuisine (although you can still request a private room Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, San for up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the The “fiorentina” Michelin-starred restaurants of the past, all about long cooking times and ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. essentials, starting with the study of old cooking texts www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. T: found on the second-hand book stalls and based 055 214179. Map D3 above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, Giovannini. A breathtaking view over Florence and Buca Poldo as well as pork products. €€. www.badaliosteria.it. Via across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6 the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan case too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, Touch Bistrò Toscano dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, with a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for of the hotelier institute have made their dream a other regional cuisines. Although the majority of the vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that bread using flour from ancient grains. of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucapoldo. name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/r. T: 055.239.6578. Ora d ’Aria the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, Map F4 Via dei Georgofili 11/r. T: 055 200169 ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, Buca San Giovanni www.oradariaristorante.com but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com. Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3 We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s Tuscani 3 (I) of Saint John opposite , Buca Mario throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and venue and countless notables from Florence and Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient the most iconic dishes in Florence recipes but tending towards a more creative in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as cuisine. But be careful: to recognize contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al the original and tell it apart from the Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of hundreds of impostors, there are cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as a few tips you need to know. “tapas” formula allows you to try a selection of small hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or Bottega del Buon Caffè portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r.T: 055 linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it. Piazza San Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French labels 285356. Map F4 Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Map F Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with its and a highly select menu of beers. with unwritten rules that the visitor Zeb Fiaschetteria Nuvoli prestigious three Michelin stars, there are six other Florentine restaurants needs to know to avoid falling foul Il Palagio Just moments away from and Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory of the restaurant owner, paying over that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. the , Zeb - highlighted by the destination for anyone who has ever wondered what Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 the odds and to make sure they get www.ilpalagioristorante.it Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it the real thing. Enoteca Pinchiorri vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in the Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver Via Ghibellina, 87. T: 055 242757 Florentine countryside, meat reared by local farms and environment with tables both indoors and outdoors, WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken enotecapinchiorri.it fresh fish. These are the strong points of the Bottega Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary proposal that looks from a specific cut of a young Chianina identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast How do you manage to be honoured with three del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the shadow of to the Italian and regional tradition with a touch of cow, a part of the loin near the backbone with a special focus on small local producers. €€. porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, Michelin stars, the highest recognition, which is only the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef Erez Ohayon modernity, as in the terrine of foie gras with Vin Santo which has a T-bone in the middle. www.zebgastronomia.com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 also available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. achieved by a hundred restaurants worldwide? In proposes a cuisine based on the use of seasonal gelée or cheese and pepper cavatelli with red shrimps It should be grilled at a very high 2342864. Map H6 T: 055 239 6616. Map F2 the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, it comes from the ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and spices and baby squid. Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that temperature, so that a fine crust forms winning combination of prime quality raw materials, to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting menus is a symphony of flavours, raw materials and colours, rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this at times venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany CANTINE the search for innovation, yet without forgetting the include gems such as amberjack served in three ways PIZZA dish depends on the cooking: the meat territory’s (great) culinary tradition, obsessive attention (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made cappelletti with dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds Antica Mescita San Niccolò Pizza Man must be brown on the outside but red, to every detail and an unrivalled wine menu, which with pigeon, butter and thyme. of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan includes highly prized labels, along with others that are labels, 50 of which also served by the glass. soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does gluten- little known but equally interesting. Then we can add Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura cooked through. This is the first vital rule: Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post free and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional the fact that the restaurant is located inside the 18th- Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038 a fiorentina must be eaten rare. for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special century Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts www.gucci.com/it/it/store/osteria-bottura is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms are a delight for the senses. Located inside inside the Gucci Garden, the creative also reflects the season and the local territory, with €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 liaison between Gucci and Bottura celebrates two dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, T: 055 2480200. Map H4 kgs, although bigger steaks are easily Borgo San Jacopo c /o Hotel Lungarno Borgo things Italy is renowned for: fashion and fine cuisine. Ora d’Aria bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just available. And here is another sore point. San Jacopo, 62/r. T: 055 281661 Head of the team is Mexican chef Karime Lopez Kondo. Pizzaiuolo (Il) a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina www.borgosanjacopo.com The menu is an explosive blend of flavours ranging 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6 Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture from Italy to the Orient and offers cosmopolitan titbits one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the by weight. An average price to be sure of postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo such as the “Taka-ban”, the classic Japanese steamed Buca Lapi pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality getting the real thing is around 50 euros San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. In this bun with pork belly and spicy sauce, or marinated This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. a kilo. case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, Adriatic palamita with tortilla or fried aubergines in out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan WITH. The traditional accompaniment is tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or shiso sauce. In a very intimate setting, the bistro plays Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts usually cannellini beans, washed down Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all around the tones of green and pistachio and can history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via with a glass of Chianti. washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 welcome up t o 35 diners indoors. internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3 labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potato- lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan WHERE. Here are four restaurants where based one is unmissable) or à la carte. La Leggenda dei Frati c/o Villa Bardini dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita Santarpia you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. In a room with blue and brown tiles, the wood oven Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a. T: 055 0680545 or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. Via illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. La Bottega del Buon Caffè www.laleggendadeifrati.it del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3 turns out pizzas made with choice, slow-rising SHUTTERSTOCK.COM com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r. T: 055 5535677 Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San flours, tomatoes from Vesuvius and mozzarella from and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei Frati Buca Mario Campania cheese makers. All accompanied by craft Zero food miles products gathered from the organic helmed by chef Filippo Saporito and his wife Ombretta For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with beers or wines from small producers. €. ristorante-perseus-firenze). PHOTO © famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of www.santarpia.biz. Largo Pietro Annigoni, 9/c. (C.Z.) Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine T: 055245829. Map L3

34 WHERE FLORENCE I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 35 DINING DINING Top hotel restaurants

Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, Il Conventino a Marignolle Il Palagio vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with seasonal products from the estate or the nearby of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties as well as the favourites of Italian cuisine. of fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle and Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Il Palagio Truffle and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle Hostaria Bibendum c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze items are flanked by other sophisticated dishes: Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 tagliolino, egg, tartare. The menu also includes www.ilpalagioristorante.it classic Tuscan dishes. Tradition, innovation and creativity: Golden Restaurant A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside Where® highlights some culinary c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant Se•Sto on Arno Piazza Strozzi 11/r. T: 055 287860 whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence destinations to whet your appetite www.goldentowerhotel.it tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 in several top hotels in Florence. The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine www.westinflorence.com Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three Local flavours and seasonal products for a card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of the types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. Intimate 400 labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass. an unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth and refined atmosphere, with high class furnishings The hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia floor of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno Borgo San Jacopo and fittings. and Trattoria al . combines a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden c/o Hotel Lungarno enclosed by sweeping picture windows that Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 Il Giardino Restaurant Irene make the most of the unique position and www.borgosanjacopo.com c/o Sina Villa Medici c/o Hotel Savoy La Loggia breathtaking view over the city. On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of Via Il Prato, 42. T: 055 2771891 Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant www.sinahotels.com www.roccofortehotels.com Villa La Vedetta is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The A temple of flavours in the sophisticated ambiance Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle Le Bistrot Ristorante La Chiostrina c/o Villa La Vedetta traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using of the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, an aristocratic 18th- building with an extraordinary collection of art c/o Villa Cora c/o Bernini Palace Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 fine quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef century palace, recently renovated and restored to works, the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 www.villalavedettahotel.com Claudio Mengoni, accompanied by collector its former splendour. The restaurant, with its winter Fulvio Pierangelini, who together with head chef www.villacora.it hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com Just moments away from the Piazzale wines from a cantina of 900 labels. garden which can be opened during the summer Giovanni Cosmai has designed a series of classic and The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park One of the most elegant and sophisticated Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking months, has been studied in every detail with an new versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic restaurants in the historic centre, housed under a view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant Capriccio Restaurant exclusive design. Seasonality and territoriality are and seasonal products. residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of 16th-century portico. The menu draws on the most restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused c/o Hotel Montebello Splendid the basis for Il Giardino’s cuisine, interpreted by Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, genuine local flavours, such as the celebrated pappa on fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products Via G. Garibaldi, 14. T: 055 27471 chef Luigi Incrocci. The menu presents interesting J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef al pomodoro, for a sensory journey through Tuscan and recipes typical of the region, so with meat, www.montebellosplendid.com creations of the best Italian and international c/o JK Place Firenze Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes cuisine. Besides regional specialities, the menu also though there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian The restaurant is designed to ensure tranquility, tradition, revisited in a modern mood. The Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part offers international dishes. options too. out of the tourist circuit, and to satisfy you with philosophy behind the restaurant’s cuisine is to www.jkplace.com locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant class service and haute cuisine dishes. Quality amaze the guests dish after dish. The wine cellar Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with Ristorante La Loggia Winter Garden by Caino products and absolute freshness for a couple’s has 60 wine labels. local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically its frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it c/o Belmond Villa San Michele c/o The Saint Regis Florence candlelight dinner or a special event. farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining moves poolside to the winter garden. Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 Hostaria Bibendum room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the www.belmond.com www.wintergardenbycaino.com Flora & Fauno c/o Helvetia & Bristol terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. Relais Le Jardin This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 c/o Hotel Regency visit even just for its magnificent position looking Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. T: 055 670971 www.starhotelscollezione.com La Cucina del Salviatino Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 over Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities revisited restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born out www.hotelvillesullarno.com This restaurant located in a magnificent 19th-century c/o Il Salviatino www.regency-hotel.com in a contemporary accent by Executive Chef of a creative liaison between chef Valeria Piccini Facing the river and immersed in the lovely palace offers a menu inspired by tradition with Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge Alessandro Cozzolino. and executive chef Gentian Shehi. Their menu garden of the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno a penchant for local producers and ingredients. www.salviatino.com mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens shines an innovative spotlight on the wonderful offers a peaceful spot with a vintage country Alongside more contemporary Italian dishes, a Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant local cuisine, with suggestions from all parts of the feel in which to explore the flavours and aromas fully-rounded experience of Florence has to include a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa globe. It ranges from the classic Tuscan dishes for of Tuscany. Classic traditional recipes revisited Tuscan specialities such as panzanella, Chianti salumi links to the local territory and the seasons, with a dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 strong stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to in a contemporary accent. The protagonists on and cheeses, pappa al pomodoro and honey- prevalence of meat courses, though there is no such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze more refined proposals like lobster tail on cream of the menu are the local ingredients, juxtaposed lacquered duck, as well as desserts like cantucci shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants topinambour and mandarin. The desserts, too, are sometimes in new and unexpected ways, at other with Vin Santo and Florentine sponge cake with orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business a joy for both eyes and palate, in particular their times sticking to tradition. Buontalenti gelato and vanilla topping. food miles. highest quality. famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection original take on tiramisù.

36 WHERE FLORENCE I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 37 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE APERITIVI Procacci via Solferino. The main theatre has seating for around This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become an 1800, but also part of the complex is a foyer called Easy living institution, and not only in Florence, especially for its the “Piccolo Teatro”, which can hold a little under 600 Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” truffle-based specialities and impeccable selection of spectators. The name “Comunale” [Municipal] dates (little beach), its location is quite singular: this strictly wines. Combines a gourmet food shop and wine bar back to 1933, when the Florentine Maggio Musicale summer-only bar is built right on the river-bed of the in a relaxing atmosphere, with delicious snacks to eat was established (see entry), but the theatre itself dates Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò, from where patrons in. 10am till 9pm (Sunday from 11am till 8pm). Historic back to the second half of the 19th century. can enjoy a leisurely aperitif with a stunning view of venue in the heart of Florence. www.procacci1885.it. www.operadifirenze.it. Corso Italia, 16. T: 055 27791. Ponte Vecchio, often with live music. There is always Via de’ Tornabuoni, 64/r. T: 055 211656. Map E3 Map B2 a cooling breeze, a big plus in a sweltering Florence Teatro Goldoni summer. www.easylivingfirenze.it. Piazza G. Poggi. Teatro del Sale Inaugurated in 1817 in the presence of Ferdinand T: 055 2341112. Map I6 Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly patron of the III of Habsburg-Lorraine, thanks to its proximity to Il Rifrullo legendary Cibreo restaurant – and co-founder, Palazzo Pitti it soon became the court theatre. Oval- In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence and president and artistic director Maria Cassi. Every day shaped, with 80 boxes distributed over four orders, it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for both from 12-noon it serves a highly original brunch of it experienced a period of abandonment. After a Florentines and visitors, renovated several times buffet food and hot snacks at a fixed price of 15 euros restoration, it returned to its original pomp in 1998, but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly acclaimed (20 euros on Saturday and Sunday). From Tuesday to with a historical design by Italian director and actor aperitifs and abundant buffet in the garden in summer Saturday (7.30pm-9pm), dinner with after-dinner show, Luca Ronconi. www.operadifirenze.it. Via Santa Maria, or in front of the fire in winter. www.ilrifrullo.com. both at a fixed price of 30 euros. www.teatrodelsale. 15. T: 055 2779309. Map C6 Via San Niccolò, 55/r. T: 055 2342621. Map H6 com. Via dei Macci, 111/r. (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: Teatro del Maggio 055 2001492. Map I3 Rivalta Cafè The theatre is in the centre, beside the old city walls, Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue that next to the historic Stazione Leopolda. The garden that combines modern furnishings and frescoed ceilings. CONCERT VENUES welcomes visitors is Piazzale Vittorio Gui, named after The sight of the Arno at dusk always attracts a crowd. & THEATRES the founder of the Stabile Orchestrale Fiorentina and www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno Corsini 14/r. the Florentine Maggio Musicale. Symphony concerts T: 055 289810. Map E4 Teatro Comunale and operas are performed in a contemporary space The city’s largest theatre occupies approximately in a large wood-covered hall. www.operadifirenze.it. Rooftop Bar La Terrazza half a block between corso Italia, via Magenta and Piazzale V. Gui, 1. Off Map Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at the medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of the Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel.com. Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. Map F4

Se·Sto on Arno The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs every evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large terrazze MARCHESINI62/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

© provide a 360° view over the marvels of Florence. www.westinflorence.com. Piazza Ognissanti, 3. T: 055 27151. Map C3 PHOTO Three Sixty From May to September the Grand Hotel Minerva, next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its magnificent panoramic terrazza with swimming pool to outside guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. www.grandhotelminerva.com. Piazza di Santa Maria It’s Carnival time! Novella. T: 055 27230. Map E2 February in Tuscany is also synonymous with the Carnival in Viareggio: not only a very ancient popular BRUNCH tradition but also the perfect excuse to treat yourself to a fun trip out of town. By Giulia Minero Ditta Artigianale Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in a contest held in Melbourne in 2013 involving competitors from or 147 years now the city of Viareggio, declared the winning float. Each year there are >> Viareggio Carnival 60 countries to find the world’s best coffee barista. a famous bathing resort on the coast of more than 250 papier-mâché artists from the 1-25 February Back in Florence, he opened this bistrot which, F Versilia that’s just 90 minutes by train over 25 local artisan companies that, keeping 1 -9-15-20-23-25 February > The Carnival besides the exceptional coffee, serves a brunch menu WWW.MARCOSCARPA.COM © MARCO SCARPA from Florence, has been considered one of the faith with a long tradition handed down from Masked Parades (from 9am to 3.30pm) ranging from Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon and French toast. Designer Italian capitals of the Carnival. father to son, set about creating these “grand viareggio.ilcarnevale.com atmosphere. www.dittaartigianale.it. Via dei Neri, 32/r. Out-of-town escape From 1 to 25 February, in fact, the promenades theatres on wheels”. Over 20 metres high and (Santa Croce district). • T: 055 2741541 or Via dello Lovers of trips out-of-town can treat themselves to a break discovering uncontaminated along the sea front are alive with parades 12 wide, the floats are genuine allegorical “Abbracciami è Carnevale” sketch by Fabrizio Galli Sprone, 5/r. (Santo Spirito district). T: 055 0457163. landscapes in Fighine, a marvellous medieval town immersed in the tranquillity of the Tuscan of monumental floats, nighttime festivities, works representing topical themes, caricatures Map E5 hills a short distance from the spa locality of San Casciano dei Bagni, in the province of Siena. firework displays, theatre shows and of political personalities, celebrities from sport Foody Farm Walking through enchanting landscapes, which do not lose their charm, even in the coldest food events involving the whole city. The or show business and the vices and virtues “The right food from the right places” is the motto of season, the Castle of Fighine, an imposing building that dates back to the 11th century, reveals programme of events for this edition includes of contemporary society. Among the themes this little restaurant where the quality and traceability itself in all its majesty. Located in a privileged position with panoramic views of the countryside of the ingredients is the holy grail. An original six Corso Mascherati [Masked Parades] - for this year: a protest against bullfighting, below, the castle is an entirely restructured private resort, which also contains a theatre and the and genuine light lunch, with the option of half among which, for the first time, a grand parade a commitment to love without discrimination, portions. Tuscan street food and fast food, including Church of Pieve di San Michele Arcangelo di Fighine. Ideal for spending a relaxing weekend, on 20 February to celebrate Giovedì Grasso [Fat culture threatened by the centaur of lampredotto and pecorino, chianina and croutons, the Castle includes 5 private villas, two charming apartments and the Castello di Fighine Thursday] - in which cheerful papier-mâché ignorance, the economic advance of China, besides pasta and soups. 11am till midnight. Intimate Restaurant (see photo), which has been awarded a Michelin star under the guidance of chef bistrot in the Santa Croce district. www.foodyfarm.it. floats of huge dimensions parade in front of a environmental disasters and the new idols Heinz Beck. www.fighine.it Corso dei Tintori, 10/r.T: 055 242327. Map H5 jury of experts and the public competing to be of the present time.

38 WHERE FLORENCE I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 39 MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Piazzale Michelangelo ATTRACTIONS Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4 Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its & MONUMENTS Ponte Vecchio views seen all over the world in million of postcards There has been a bridge at this point of the River Duomo and Cupola and reproductions. Dedicated to the city’s most Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, Completed in 1436, the religious building, whose famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some between floods and reconstructions, the official date official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the tree- 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most lined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, important artists of the period participated in its monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe who used the river to dispose of their waste in a creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous del Poggi”. Map I7 multi-coloured marble façade dates back to the hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it 19 th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths San Miniato al Monte construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, stands the world: it is possible to climb to the top (exclusively on there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious foot) up its 463 steps. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. history, on prominent display on the bridge is a building situated at one of the highest panoramic it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith points in Florence. The most spectacular access is of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge gained via the monumental flight of steps (which Battistero between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli is not advisable, however, for those with problems Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via walking). The outside of the church is decorated Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the de’ Guicciardini. Map F5 with green and white marble, typical of Florentine building that completes the considerably striking Romanesque, while a 12th-century Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, decorates the central part of the façade. www. th The symbol of wealth and power, the building was but its first official dating is at least in the 12 century. sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34. inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg- It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a T: 055 234 2731. Off Map dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy The outside is decorated with white marble from family. The original architecture dates back to the Mercato Centrale Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first Built at the end of the 19th century, the project was of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque owner. The building is located on the left bank of the entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously river, at the foot of Boboli Hill. They are one of the the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and most important examples of Italian-style gardens inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first , is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in the world and are considered a genuine open-air floor of the historic covered market there has been in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, museum. Currently they are the site of four different a complex containing dozens of small restaurants, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the leisure activities and street food options, and this www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery has now become a point of reference for informal Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion and but good quality cuisine for both Florentines Costume. They are connected to Forte di Belvedere. and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Campanile di Giotto www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798. 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation 294883. Map E6 Map F1 of 14th-century Florentine , the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del © Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic square- based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. The symbol of Jewish Florence it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3 The Synagogue offers an important testimony of the history of Florentine Jews. Thanks to its architecture, Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of it is considered one of the most harmonious Italian buildings of the 19th century. By Chiara Zaccarelli civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman n the city the artistic, architectural and cultural the luxuriant garden, which also hosts the Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over landmarks are many and diverse, ranging from community school, and find themselves immersed the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the modernism to classicism, to fascist architecture, in an Oriental-style atmosphere. I Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and and also Russian and Jewish. Among these, the The interior, bathed in golden light, is covered with Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent Tempio Maggiore Israelitico, merits a visit. decorative motifs by Giovanni Panti, painted in red in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a Located in the neighbourhood of Sant’Ambrogio, and blue arabesques. On the same walls there are series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing Palazzo Pitti and its dynasties one of the most important sculptural cycles in the its green copper dome is a point of reference on beautiful multicoloured stained-glass windows, world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s A palace for three dynasties, Palazzo Pitti is an extraordinary building located in the Oltrarno the city’s panorama. After the emancipation of while in the presbytery the Aron ha Kodesh is David: the one on display in its original position is a district, at the foot of ther Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of the Italian Jews, which occurred in 1861 with the covered with Venetian mosaics. The doors of the copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria the palace, take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti contains four different museums: the proclamation of the Unity of Italy, it became one of Holy Ark, in front of which a perpetual light is kept dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4 Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground flloor and mezzanine) with vases made of semi-precious the most significant examples of exotic Moorish on, still bear the marks of the bayonets inflicted Palazzo Vecchio stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories and an exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; style in Europe. It also has Arabian and Byzantine by the fascists, who tried to demolish it. In the Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat the Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) with the world’s largest elements, which characterise the imposing façade adjacent Jewish Museum it is possible to revisit of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest concentration of works by Raphael, the Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) hosting an synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one covered in white travertine and pink limestone the history of the Florentine community. important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school; the Musem of Fashion and Costume of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its slabs, the central dome, the two side towers and imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of (Palazzina della Meridiana) with 6,000 items from the 18th century to today.

the walnut wood portals, as well as the interiors. >> www.firenzebraica.it/sinagoga /SHUTTERSTOCK.COM TUPUNGATO its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. Map E6 © Going through the cast iron gate, visitors enter Via Farini, 4. T. 055 245252. Map L3 make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people.

40 WHERE FLORENCE I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 41 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

Santa Croce precious artworks by Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present rare relationship between fashion and art. The museum Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo FIRENZECARD www.firenzecard.it Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Piero di examples of the Florentine painting of the 14th and is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca and Andrea della 15th centuries. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm. Full ticket was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On the terrace the elegant price: €7.50. www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini. headquarters for his company and his workshop – radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober Caffè del Verone offers beautiful panoramic views. comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of Florentine appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors to Open daily 10am-7pm. www.istitutodeglinnocenti. Novella, 18. T: 055 219257- 055 282187. Map E3 art from the 17th and 18th centuries. Open daily it. Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. 10am-7.30pm. Full ticket price €6. www.ferragamo. Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of his great Museo Giardini di Boboli masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal Map H1 com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Trinita, Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4 experienced that profound artistic agitation that has Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. An elegant collection of works made of semi- responsible for designing their layout, creating the Museo Stefano Bardini The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres precious stones and multi-coloured marble and model of the Italian-style garden that was to become A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant in of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. www. scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, an example for many European courts. Populated antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated his santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. T: 055 instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone by ancient and Renaissance statues, adorned with private collection to Florence, where it was displayed 2466105. Map H4 samples. The works are displayed in chronological grottos - including the famous Buontalenti Grotto - in the Neo-Renaissance building that housed his Santa Maria Novella order from the early 17th century to the 1880s. Open and large fountains, such as those of Neptune and antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 items there, Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays and the Ocean, they are a genuine open-air museum. The including sculptures, paintings and objects of applied Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of Firenzecard costs €85, allows access to 78 museums and is valid for 72 hours from holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli terraced area includes the Rococò pavilion known as arts, from ancient art to that of the 18th century, with reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation dates the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1 the Kaffeehaus and the Limonaia, the Lemon House. a major presence of works from the Middle Ages and At the centre of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina the Renaissance. Open Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. back to the end of the 13th century but work on it of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: Museo di Palazzo Vecchio continued for centuries, so the church, with its elegant del Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain Museum. Full ticket price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, Closed first and last Monday of the month. Full ticket fi.it. Via dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church the Firenzecard circuit price: €10. www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. 2342427.Map G6 city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the Map E6 of Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works of • Priority access to museums without booking, except for the Dome, Galleria Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over Orsanmichele art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, degli Uffizi and Galleria dell’Accademia, where the booking is required but free. time it has undergone numerous enlargement and Museo Nazionale del Bargello A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil and Paolo Uccello. www.smn. transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes This imposing building, built between the 13th and religious functions are combined. Built as a it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: are rooms and private environments sumptuously and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and granary, in the mid-14th century it was consecrated Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 055 219257. Map D2-E2 Forte di Belvedere decorated by some of the most famous artists of the the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between for Christian worship. On the ground floor the Church 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2 At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings and 1574 and 1858. The Museum conserves a highly houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by Orcagna. Santo Spirito commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a Cappella Brancacci exceptional masterpieces. Open daily, 9am-11pm; important collection of Renaissance sculptures, The originals of the numerous sculptures (works by Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa fortress on the top of Boboli Hil. The fort currently The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm. Museum with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, famous Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a hosts top-level events and exhibitions. Open Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, house full ticket price: €10. www.museicivicifiorentini. Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, centuries) that adorned the niches outside on the point of reference of the Augustinian order. The exclusively on the occasion of temporary exhibitions. the , a masterpiece that is universally comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. and prestigious collections of “lesser arts”. Open four sides of the imposing stone cube are conserved church has given its name to the entire surrounding Full ticket price: €3. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. renowned for the of the cycle of Scenes Map G4 daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Museum full ticket price: €9. in the museum on the first floor. On the second floor neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located fi.it. Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7 from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and Masolino www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/1/bargello. you can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria “Oltrarno”, that is on the left bank of the river. A Museo di Santa Maria Novella da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they were left Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4 del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here. jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was Galleria degli Uffizi The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the unfinished and were eventually completed by Filippino Church (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm. Free the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. www. The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and second 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental Museo Salvatore Ferragamo Lippi between 1481 and 1482. You are advised to book entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/3/ basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. T: 055 floors of the large building erected between 1560 and cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works This is a museum devoted to the history of the (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. T: 055 210030. Map D5 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; it is one of such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Full ticket price: Wed-Fri 2388606. Map F4 the most famous museums in the world on account Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every San Lorenzo €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi year it organises exhibitions that investigate the Santa Maria del Fiore Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. and paintings. The collections of paintings from the The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224- 14th century and the Renaissance contain a number del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by 558-2382195. Map C5 of absolute masterpieces: from Giotto to Botticelli, world, are a single large open-air museum, a unique Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the fourth from Leonardo to Canaletto. There are also important Cappelle Medicee combination of art, faith and history located in the century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest churches in collections by German, Dutch and Flemish painters, Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state city’s main square, the religious, historical and artistic the city. Its current appearance, however, is the result including Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens. Open Tues- museum, but their history is closely associated with centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria del of the last major reconstruction work that took place in Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under ticket price: €20. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: are part. The museum consists of the New Sacristy, of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower , together with the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 055 23885.Map F5 Its bare stone façade was intended to receive a designed and conceived as regards its sculptural the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo rich marble decoration designed by Michelangelo, furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of the Princes, Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze dell’Opera del Duomo are all visitable with a single which unfortunately was never executed. The interior a monumental mausoleum built using semi-precious The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence of ticket that can be purchased online (full price €18), is a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures stones, the Crypt, where the Medici Grand Dukes and a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, with prior booking necessary for the Dome. by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. www. their relatives are buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, St. Matthew, but above the famous David, transported www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, which contains the funeral monument to Cosimo the here from Piazza della Signoria (where it was T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3 Elder. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2 replaced by a faithful copy) in August 1873. Housed Villa Bardini and Gardens Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month,. Full ticket in the adjacent premises are works coming from the The most beautiful view of Florence earned it price: €8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/ Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a MUSEUMS & medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza the convents themselves, which were abolished in the place rich in history, art and culture, has become Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. Map F2 EXHIBITION SITES Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or Hall of an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary Models, the collection of Russian icons and musical Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana Fondazione exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum instruments of the courts of the Medici and Lorena Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of private (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed Lorenzo, it is one of the finest examples of the architecture of the Renaissance and a dynamic cultural realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum on Mondays. Museum full ticket price: €12. www. architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned by Pope centre that hosts international level exhibitions, (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently being galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the wishes ranging from ancient art to the Renaissance, to restructured). In addition, there is also a Michelin- 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2 of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is gained by contemporary art. Always present are an exhibition MUSEO DEGLI INNOCENTI starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda dei Frati ascending the monumental staircase designed by devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, the café and the museum Museo degli Innocenti The Museum of the Innocenti is located in the monumental complex that includes the (see "Dining"), and surrounding it are four hectares Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Ammannati shop, which looks out onto the Renaissance courtyard, The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale degli building designed by Filippo Brunelleschi, a notable example of early Renaissance of woodland, an Italian-style garden and a kitchen garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. in 1559. The Library conserves approx. 11,000 Greek, where concerts, performances, contemporary art Innocenti, designed by Brunelleschi. Opened in 1445 architecture. It tells a story linking the past and present of an institution that for centuries has Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly miniated, installations and theatrical plays are organised. Open Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Full ticket as a refuge for abandoned children, today it continues been committed to promoting children’s rights. The unity between artworks, architecture dating from the 5th to the 19th century, in addition daily and holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. its function as the “Institute of the Innocents”. The price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain to papyruses and rare print editions. Open Mon-Fri Museum full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. museum itinerary combines the documentary and and documentary memory offer an example of cultural heritage that is unique in the world. Museum). www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 - 9.30am-1.30pm. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici Piazza Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3 historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery hosts IPOSTUDIO-ARCHITETTI_MUSEO-DEGLI-INNOCENTI_9_©PIETRO-SAVORELLI Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6-G

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Emergency UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2. T: 055 49771. Taxi TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers. Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650 Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com.

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it.

PHOTO © Airports of Florence (which is approximately the part AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA Getting around Florence located within the 19th- century ring-roads or viali, “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic to the North-West of Florence, lies between Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer scooters are allowed to enter. The museum city Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique • Connections to the airport and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am- Tourist Information VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from 12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO - concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it. S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every (int. 5). T: 055 334802. www.firenzeturismo.it 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of only allowed into the centre to load and unload Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s Can be used on buses, trams or trains. purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information alleyways and sidestreets, derives from your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). and sales point for Firenzecard. its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period concierge, also so you can receive indications of Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. F (www.ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the where the car parks are located in the centre). To that is gradually disappearing, but some traces one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day ticket: €10. brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces find your way around the city, it is a good idea of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, ticket from 10pm to 3am). A further step in the digital Firenzecard. remain. With less than four hundred thousand to keep well in mind that Florence is developed were divided between “black”, which denoted he NEW AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) transformation of Florence’s public transport: 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: inhabitants and covering an area of little more along the two banks of the River Arno. All the residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red - (80 km from the centre of Florence). today you can travel on buses (ATAF, Volainbus 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and than a hundred square kilometres, Florence roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, numbers still remain, so bear that in mind. Call centre T: 050 849300. and The Mall) by paying fast and safe with your holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 is practically impossible to tour by car, and in are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit. www.pisa-airport.com debit/credit/pre-paid contactless cards. 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella The Tramway T1 “Leonardo” connects S.M. Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: the highest tourist density on the entire planet: Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: (www.gestramvia.com). The new line Tramway Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and wherever you wish to visit, book in advance €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, T2 “Vespucci” connecting the Airport with events, opening times of museums, how to you can also count on quite an efficient public the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on (or have them book for you at your hotel). travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. S.M. Novella Station has been activated on move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm transport network (which, however, is severely the other side of the river, to the south, is called You should also bear in mind that the serious 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu February 2019. Electric buses move around the in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: historic centre and also reach the pedestrian Via email ([email protected]) you can limited during the nighttime hours, so take care “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally overcrowding takes place around mid-morning, €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, areas (C1-C2-C3-D lines). WHERE TIP Route ask for information in any language, including after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the outside the historic centre, but today it contains so if you are an early bird then that could give you travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. C1 is convenient for visiting the most important Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic strategic points, whereas private cars are usually important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the a significant advantage. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it museums in Florence.The entire historic centre (answers within 24 hours).

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CASTELLO SESTO apertura SIGHTSEEING FIORENTINO

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V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E V. A. NICOLODI PIETRO D Golf Club Parco Di Firenze V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E VIA XX SETTEMBRE V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I V I A C O S S E R I A CAPEI E

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STA PIAZZA Chiesa di Sant'Agata V. VOLTURNOV Chiesa San Jacopino AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO VIA DEI CAIROLI I A L E VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO VIALE SPARTACO LAVAGNINI PIAZZA VASARI VIA SAN GALLO M I SAVONAROLA V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O ACIO A VIA G. PAISIELLO O N VIA POGGI VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI IL VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Fortezza da Basso V F Giardino VIA PIETRO MARONCELLI VIA G. DOLFI V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O O P V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V I Campo Di R A A S. CATERINA D'ALESSANDRIA Marte V I A C A V O U R E VI V IA G U S T A V O M O D E N A Chiesa VIAPIO FEDI PIAZZA G VIA DELLE RUOTE PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E U Nostra Signora D Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI I D del Sacro Cuore Stadio O Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI Comunale VIA FONTEBUONI O VIA ROSOLIN Franchi MONTIGNANO F M V IA V E N E Z IA Chiesa dei Sette Santi V. C. A O VIA BARTOLOMMEI Giardino VIA MASSA RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIA ALFONSO LA MARMORA V. G. BENIVIENI VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI N VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI N V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALE A VIA DELLA FORTEZZA VIA DEI SETTE SANTI BAMBINE E BAMBINI EGLI ARTISTI T VIA GIUSEPPE SIRTORI C PIAZZA Cimitero I O DI BESLAN V AI M A S A C C OI INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di VIA PIER ANTONIO MICHELI della Misericordia Passerella dell'Isolotto S. Giovanni VIA D VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N dei Cavalieri VIA MASSA Giardino VL. T. MAMIANI V AI M A N N E L L I V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E VIA SAN GALLO VIA CITTADELLA VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I A D N O F L A V A I V Giardino DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI LG. PORTA di Valfonda VIA DEL PRATELLO Teatro dell’Opera LEOPOLDA P EI R C A P P O N I A Z N E A F A I V V IA G U E L F A Giardino V. MONTANELLI dei Semplici VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO Convento VIA GIAMBOLOGNA VIA PIO FEDI di San Marco VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA Firenze Fiera San Giuliano RATA VIA G.LA PIRA Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI VIA GINO CAPPONI V I A A N T O N I O C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda REPA PORTA AL LO VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I L LARGO V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI San Barnaba PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE PIAZZA SAN MARCO V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE VIA SANTA SAN GA VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI PIAZZA VIA DELL'ARCOLAIO SAN BARTOLOMEO VIA V AI M A S A C C OI Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale A B C D ADUA E F G H EM U I F A I V I L B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I AL GIGNORO V IA G U E L F A V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI A R N O Palazzo Corsini sul Prato Chiesa Opera di San Jacopo di Ripoli La SS. Annunziata DONATELLO VIALE MANFREDO FANTI VIA DEI FALCUCCI Amerigo Vespucci di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI Firenze Fortezza 11 Mugello Fiesole Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V Airport (4km) V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Chiesa Casa di Riposo da Basso Piazza 30km 8km degli Inglesi episcopale americana Galleria dell’Accademia PIAZZA BORGO PINTI della Beata ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL San Marco DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO V IA D E G L IA L F A N I V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale SANTISSIMA Museo Archeologico V AI L E M A L T A V.Z CENTRALE V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO 1 Stazione Ferroviaria VIA DE’GINORI ANNUNZIA 1 VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO V IA M O N T E B E L L O Firenze Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A V IA T O R C IC O D A Santa Maria Novella VIA DELL’ARIENTO Nelson Mandela Forum E P E M A Z Z I N I Florence Map LI ORI

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VIA DEL R. FIORENTINO R. DEL VIA di San Lorenzo SAN E VIA DEL PIGNONCINO DEL VIA ITALIANA BRUNELLESCHI VIA DEL MELARANCIO V I A D E ’ G O R I T VIAC MAGENTA O R S O TI A L AI Basilica di LORENZO S VIA GIORDANI L U N G A R N O A M E R I G O V E S P U C C I Santa Maria Novella VIA D A VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO C PIAZZA V I A D E ’ V A N N I V I A P I G N O N E Ponte della Vittoria E L VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI E’ Teatro D Università VIALE EDMONDO DE AMICIS V I A VIA DEL SANSOVINO Santa 13 C MASSIMO D'AZEGLIO VIA LIBERO ANDREOTTI VIA PANZANI ONTI degli Studi di Firenze PIAZZA V. S. LUCIALucia O Pucci VIA GIOVANNI BOVIO Z VIA PALESTRO sul Prato VIA DELL'ALBERO VIA MARSALA P. BATONI VI A DELL’ALLORO OLI Chiesa 2 Polimoda Santa Maria 2 V IA D E L L A S C A L A VIA DEL GIGLIO Parrocchiale VIA ZANETTI AN LOREN CAS Maddalena dei Pazzi VIA ANTONIO SCIALOJA V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI PIAZZA Teatro Sacro Cuore VIA FERDINANDO MARTINI V I A G I O V A N N I A N T O N I O S O G L I A N I VIA MONTEBELLO PIAZZA VIA DE’Niccolini MARTELLI V I A R I TADDEO GADDI B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I SANTA ORGO S VIA DEL MEZZETTA V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O B VIA DEI SERVI IA DE’ CONTI VIA CIRO MENOTTI MARIA V VIA DEI BANCHI VIA ANNIBAL CARO V I A D E L L A F O N D E R I A 1 Ospedale Santa Maria Nuova VIA M.FINIGUERRA VIA DEI CERRETANI VIA BRONZINO NOVELLA 2 LO FARINI VIALE GIUSEPPE MAZZINI V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA FRANCESCO TALENTI Teatro I C S M A R G O I N O T N A E L A I V V AI M A N N E L L I LI Santa Maria della V. G . B . N I C C O L I N I VIAL. MAITANI INEL Battistero D Maggiore Cattedrale di Museo dell'Opera V. DELLA CASA Pergola VIA GIAMBATTISTA VICO VIA DELLE VIABELLE DONNE di San Giovanni Santa Maria del Fiore di Santa Maria del Fiore Oratorio Di V. DEL TREBBIO 3 NA VIA PIETRO FRANCAVILLA Santommaso Tempio Maggiore VIA BRONZINO DEI RON LUIGI CAR Loggia di San Paolo Palazzo V. D'aquino VIA DEI PILASTRI A Israelitico PIAZZA VI Sinagoga VIA CAPO DI MONDO V. DEL GIGNORO Antinori VIA AGLI V. DEI PECORI VIA DI MELEGNANO PINTI GUGLIELMO VIALE ETRURIA V. B. FRANCESCHINI Ognissanti V. CAMPANELLA VIA DEL MEZZETTA VIALE ETRURIA L U N G A R N O S A N TA R O S A Chiesa FIESOLA V. FRA' SARPI Chiesa dei V. DELL'ORIUOLO VIA SANT'EGIDIO A OBERDAN di San VIA DEL SOLE I VIA PIETRO COLLETTA Santi Michele LLESCHI VIA G. LEOPARDI PIAZZA V VIA TITO SPERI Paolino V.CANONICA VIA

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Museo delle Porcellane Camping O L ALD M.CECC M V. R. DA MANDELLO 46 WHERE FLORENCE I FEBRUARY 2020 80km Palazzo Pitti www.wheretraveler.com 47 I V. M A R S U P P I N I PIAZZA ONT LARGO A R E Z Z I V S A I V ▼ A I F L E D A L I F A I V A K A I V

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5 STARS Adler Cavalieri – Via della Scala, 40 • Map C1 Pontevecchio Suites & SPA – Via De’ Belfredelli, 9 • Map E5 Belmond Villa San Michele – Via Doccia, 4 (Fiesole) • Albani Firenze – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • Map F3 Rapallo – Via Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, 7 • Off Map Off Map Continentale – Vicolo dell’Oro, 6/r • Map F4 Roma –Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 8 • Map E3 Bernini Palace – Piazza S. Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria) • Dei Cavalieri Relais Monna Lisa – Borgo Pinti, 27 San Firenze Suites e SPA – Piazza di S. Firenze, 3 • Map G4 Map G4 • Map H2 San Gallo Palace – Via Lorenzo Il Magnifico, 2 • Off Map Four Seasons Hotel Firenze – Borgo Pinti, 99 • L1 Executive Firenze – Via Curtatone, 5 • Map B2 Santa Maria Novella – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 1 • Map E2 Golden Tower Hotel & Spa – Piazza degli Strozzi, 11/r • Map E4 FH55 Calzaiuoli – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • F3 Torre Guelfa – Borgo SS. Apostoli, 8 • Map F4 Helvetia & Bristol Firenze – Via dei Pescioni, 2 • Map E3 FH55 Grand Hotel Mediterraneo – Lungarno del Tempio, 44 UNAHOTELS Vittoria Firenze – Via Pisana, 59 • Off Map Hotel Regency Firenze – Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3 • Map L1 • Off Map Hotel Savoy – Piazza della Repubblica, 7 • Map F3 Gallery Hotel Art – Vicolo dell’Oro, 5 • Map F4 LUXURY HISTORIC ACCOMMODATIONS Il Salviatino – Via del Salviatino, 21 (Fiesole) • Off Map Ginori al Duomo – Via de’ Ginori, 22/24/26 • Map F1 Antica Torre Tornabuoni – Via de’ Tornabuoni, 1 • Map E4 Lungarno – Borgo San Jacopo, 14 • Map F5 Glance Hotel In Florence – Via Nazionale, 23 • Map E1 Be One Art and Luxury Home – Via dei Brunelleschi, 1 Montebello Splendid – Via G. Garibaldi, 14 • Map B1 Grand Hotel Adriatico – Via Maso Finiguerra, 9 • Map C2 • Map F3 NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa – Via Porta Rossa, 19 • Horto Convento Firenze – Viale L. Ariosto, 13 • Map B4 Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo– Via De’ Servi, 2 • Map G2 Map E4 Hotel Cellai – Via 27 Aprile 14, 52/r • Off Map Palazzo Vecchietti – Via degli Strozzi, 4 • Map E3 Hotel Degli Orafi – Lungarno degli Archibusieri, 4 • F5 4-STAR BOUTIQUE HOTELS Portrait Firenze – Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 4 • Map F4 Hotel Londra – Via Jacopo da Diacceto 16/20 • Map C1 AdAstra – Via del Campuccio, 53 • C6 Relais Santa Croce – Via Ghibellina , 87 • Map H4 J & J – Via di Mezzo, 20 • I3 Grand Amore Hotel & Spa – Via de’ Servi, 38/a • Map H1 Sina Villa Medici – Via Il Prato, 42 • Map B1 Kraft – Via Solferino, 2 • B2 Messori Suites – Via A. Giacomini, 25 • Off Map The St. Regis Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 1 • Map C31 L’Orologio – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 24 • Map E2 Palazzo Castri 1874 – Piazza Indipendenza, 7 • Off Map The Westin Excelsior, Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 3 Mercure Firenze Centro – Via Nazionale, 21-23/r • Map E1 Riva Lofts Florence– Via Baccio Bandinelli, 98 • Off Map • Map C3 NH Anglo American – Via G. Garibaldi, 9 • Map B2 Rivoli Boutique Hotel (S) – Via della Scala, 33 • Map D2 Villa Cora – Viale Machiavelli, 18 • Off Map NH Firenze – Piazza V. Veneto, 4 • Map A1 SoprArno Suites – Via Maggio, 35 • D5 Villa La Vedetta – Viale Michelangiolo, 78 • Off Map NilHotel – Via E. Barsanti, 27 • Off Map Ville sull’Arno – Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo, 1/3/5 Novotel Firenze Airport – Via Tevere, 23 (Sesto Fiorentino) • COUNTRY HOUSES • Off Map Off Map Il Paluffo – Via Citerna, 144-Fraz. Fiano

Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort – Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, Palazzo Gaddi (S) – Via del Giglio, 11 • Map E2 (Certaldo, Firenze) • Off Map FLORENCE CITY GUIDE

FEBRUARY 2020 10 • Off Map Palazzo Ognissanti Hotel – Via Maso Finiguerra, 12/r ®

• Map C2 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE 4 STARS Palazzo dal Borgo – Via Della Scala, 6 • Map D2 AC Hotel Firenze by Marriott – Via L. Bausi, 5 • Off Map Pierre – Via de’ Lamberti, 5 • Map F4

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