National Geographic-Traveller-2017

2017 Experiences TAKE YOUR BEST SHOT #OnlyinViva

Mallorca & Menorca hotelsviva.com Experiences 2017 Contents IMAGE: GETTY

07 Editors’ picks 40 Poison frogs of Colombia The experiences that shook our world On the trail of the world’s most formidable amphibian 11 Part 1: Learning curve 45 Part 4: Being there 13 Pasta practice Know your ravioli from your gnocchi 46 Northern Lights The view from the Arctic wilderness 14 Freediving in Komodo On the cover Diving unaided in kaleidoscopic depths 49 The pyramids of Sudan Exploring the mysterious structures A camp fire lights up its surroundings in the 17 of Meroë Spanish in Majorca Sahara, Merzouga, Learning the lingo with the locals Morocco. IMAGE: Getty 52 The two towers 21 Halloumi in Cyprus Seeing London from a different view Making the island’s squeaky cheese 55 Icelandic adventures 23 Part 2: Come to your From volcanic churches to lava lumps senses 59 Part 5: On the move 24 The Deep South Music and food in Memphis, Nashville 60 A Peak District adventure and New Orleans Spelunking, climbing and gorge walking

30 The road to wellbeing 64 Polo in Dubai Alternative routes to health, from forest Learning the sport of kings baths to Mayan sweat lodges 67 Canoeing in Canada 32 Part 3: Close encounters Tackling the rapids of Ontario

34 On safari in Botswana 70 Serenity in the Seychelles Among the birds and the beasts of Active pursuits and animal encounters the Okavango Delta on Alphonse Island

Experiences 2017 3

Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Contributing Editors: Editor: Pat Riddell Jo Fletcher-Cross, Zane Henry, Deputy Editor: Glen Mutel Sam Lewis, Farida Zeynalova Senior Editor: Stephanie Cavagnaro Editorial Assistant: Associate Editor: Sarah Barrell Connor McGovern Assistant Editors: Amelia Duggan, Sub Editors: Lorraine Grifﬁ ths, Tamsin Wressell Ben Murray Digital Development Manager: Designers: Gabriella Finney, Seamus McDermott Lauren Gamp, Philip Lay Online Editor: Josephine Price Production Controllers: Editor’s Head of Subs: Hannah Doherty Maia Abrahams, Joaquim Pereira, Sub Editors: Chris Horton, Lisa Poston, Joanne Roberts, Charlotte Wigram-Evans Anthony Wright letter Project Manager: Natalie Jackson APL Business Development Team: Group Art Editor: Chris Hudson Neil Bhullar, Chris Dalton, Senior Designer: Lauren Atkinson-Smith Cynthia Lawrence, Sinead McManus Lead Designer: Daniel Almeroth Production Manager: Daniel Gregory Chief Executive: Anthony Leyens here was a time when our travel Special Projects Consultant: Managing Director: Matthew Midworth Matthew Jackson expectations were simple — a bit of National Geographic Traveller Business Sales Director: Alex Vignali Development Team: Sales Administrator: rest and relaxation, a brief glimpse of William Allen, Bob Jalaf, Adam Fox, Elizabeth Scott Kevin Killen, Glyn Morgan, Adam Phillips, Executive Assistant: T Mark Salmon, John Stergides, Jon Stone Taylah Brooke another culture or simply a break from Head of National Geographic Traveller Financial Controller: Ryan McShaw — The Collection: Credit Manager: Craig Chappell keeping your own house. But as the decades Danny Pegg Accounts Manager: Siobhan Grover Accounts Assistant: Jana Abraham have rolled by, our options and ambitions have blossomed, and today your average

National Geographic Traveller is published by APL Media Limited, Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL. traveller expects a great deal more. natgeotraveller.co.uk E T: 020 7253 9906. [email protected] For many, it’s no longer enough to be a A T: 020 7253 9909. F: 020 7253 9907. [email protected] : T: 01293 312166. [email protected] tourist — to go somewhere new and merely National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from National Geographic Partners, LLC. Their entire contents are protected by copyright 2017 soak it up. These days, people want and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no experiences — to do something that sounds responsibility in the effect arising therefrom. Readers are advised to seek professional advice before acting on any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither APL Media Ltd or National Geographic Traveller magazine accept any liability for views impressive, will stand out in the memory and expressed, pictures used or claims made by advertisers. will simultaneously scratch several long-held itches. This could mean learning a new skill, testing yourself physically in a new

National Geographic Traveler (US) Mary Beth Oelkers-Keegan, environment or simply being in the presence Ann Marie Pelish, Brett Weisband Editor-in-Chief, Travel Media: Communications Vice President: of something truly remarkable. George W. Stone Heather Wyatt Publisher & Vice President, Global Communications Director: Meg Calnan Media: Kimberly Connaghan Senior Vice President, International In this guide we’ve got it all covered, from Digital Director: Andrea Leitch Media: Yulia P. Boyle Design Director: Marianne Seregi Director, International Magazine chasing tree frogs in Colombia and walking Director of Photography: Publishing: Ariel Deiaco-Lohr Anne Farrar through an Icelandic glacier to freediving Editorial Projects Director: National Geographic Society Andrew Nelson Senior Editor: Jayne Wise President & CEO: Gary E. Knell with the sharks and rays of Komodo Island. Features Editor: Amy Alipio Board of Trustees Chairman: Associate Editor: Hannah Sheinberg Jean N. Case Travel has always been an experience Editor/Producer: Christine Blau Vice Chairman: Tracy R. Wolstencroft Producers: Mary McGrory, — now’s the time to have one of your own! Lindsay Smith National Geographic Partners Associate Producer: Caity Garvey Editor, Adventure: Mary Anne Potts CEO: Declan Moore Deputy Art Director: Editorial Director: Susan Goldberg Leigh V. Borghesani Chief Financial Offi cer: Marcela Martin GLEN MUTEL, EDITOR Senior Photo Producer: Sarah Polger Global Networks CEO: Associate Photo Producers: Courteney Monroe Jeff Heimsath, Jess Mandia Chief Communications Offi cer: @glenmutel Associate Photo Editor: Laura Nichols Laura Emmons Legal & Business Affairs: Jeff Schneider Chief Researcher: Marilyn Terrell Chief Technology Offi cer: Production Director: Kathie Gartrell Jonathan Young Executive Assistant: Alexandra E. Petri Digital Product: Rachel Webber Editorial Assistant: Gulnaz Khan Consumer Products & Experiences: Copy Editors: Preeti Aroon, Rosa Zeegers Liane DiStefano, Emily Shenk Flory, Board of Directors Chairman: Nancy Gupton, Cindy Leitner, Gary E. Knell

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Experiences 2017 5 Tel:Tel: ++264 ++264 61 22861 228 104 104 JourneysJourneys E-mail:E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] Web:Web: www.journeysnamibia.com www.journeysnamibia.com OFFERINGOFFERING Q UINTESSENTIAL Q UINTESSENTIAL A DVENTURES A DVENTURES

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UNFORGETTABLE From teary group hugs on the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro to a breathtaking ﬂ ight above Victoria Falls, our team recall the memorable experiences that shook their worlds

Wadi Rum, Jordan

Glen Mutel Stephanie Cavagnaro Pat Riddell DEPUTY EDITOR SENIOR EDITOR EDITOR WHAT: Seeing the monolithic Moai WHAT: Riding the Eastern & WHAT: Hiking and camping in Wadi of Easter Island. Oriental Express. Rum, Jordan. WHY: The initial appeal was the WHY: The journey from Singapore WHY: The further we drove into island’s isolation, palpable as I to Bangkok revealed a blur of the desert, the more magnifi cent stood on the shore, staring out onto shi ing landscapes: thick palm the landscape became. Vast thousands of miles of nothingness. oil plantations, jungle covered red-orange sand dunes swept up This was soon eclipsed by the thrill hills and fl ooded rice paddies. The the side of the rocky cli s, which of seeing the 15 Moai statues at Ahu train itself was just as special: step surrounded us. As darkness fell we Tongariki, lined up with their backs aboard, and be transported to the arrived at Mzied’s Bedouin tent. to the Pacifi c, staring at the distant golden days of rail travel. My cabin Sweet yet bitter cardamom co ee, quarry from which they were was enriched with cherry wood, boiled over an open fi re, was served carved — especially the one with Champagne was almost obligatory while dinner was baked on charcoal the huge rock topknot. in the observation car, and the under the sand. We lay out gazing HOW: Journey Latin America Piano Bar was made for cheery up at the cloudless starry sky, o ers an 19-day holiday to Chile sing-a-longs in your fi nest frock. before dri ing o in the absolute including Easter Island, staying at HOW: Belmond o ers the three-day silence of the desert. the Explora Rapa Nui, from £7,537 Singapore to Bangkok trip on the HOW: Exodus Travels has a seven- per person. Price includes all Eastern & Oriental Express from night Petra & Wadi Rum Trek from fl ights, excursions and most meals. £2,066 per person. belmond.com £1,339 per person. exodus.co.uk journeylatinamerica.co.uk NEXT: An expedition to Antarctica NEXT: Ascending the Andes to the

IMAGES: GETTYIMAGES: NEXT: The Pyramids of Giza. to explore this icy, isolated world. Inca citadel of Machu Picchu.

Experiences 2017 7 Kilimanjaro at sunrise at Kilimanjaro Mount of summit Hikers approach the 8 natgeotraveller.co.uk RIGHT: EDITORS’ PICKS WHAT: NEXT: NEXT: other push through. I’ll never forget forget never I’ll through. push other camping trip along a remote stretch stretch aremote along trip camping way, and on summit night, when we we when night, summit way, on and excluding flexcluding intrepidtravel.com ights. the feeling of getting to the top and and top the to getting of feeling the due to the altitude, we helped each each helped we altitude, the to due of water in New Zealand or Canada. or Zealand New in water of having a group hug — not a dry eye eye adry —not hug agroup having clicked immediately; we had deep deep had we immediately; clicked was travelling solo, but — cheesy —cheesy but solo, travelling was were all exhausted and nauseous nauseous and exhausted all were fl I November. Tanzania last to ew as it sounds — the group I joined Ijoined group —the sounds it as and meaningful chats along the the along chats meaningful and WHY: WHY: trip starts at £1,728 per person, person, per £1,728 at starts trip Victoria Falls day Kilimanjaro Rongai Route Route Rongai Kilimanjaro day HOW: A long-distance kayaking and and kayaking A long-distance Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro. Mount Climbing A er months of training, I A training, of months er Intrepid Travel’s eight- Intrepid CONTRIBUTOR Nicola Trup Nicola in the house. the in the expanse of wilderness, I almost wept. wept. Ialmost ofwilderness, expanse the the most extreme wildernesses I’ve ever ever I’ve wildernesses extreme most the WHAT: was at the foot of vast mountains where where mountains ofvast foot atthe was a yurt in the distance. It seemed such a a such It seemed distance. the in a yurt markers of civilisation. Our fi Our camp nal ofcivilisation. markers determined domestic defi ance against defi domestic against ance determined one day, I saw the smoking chimney of of chimney smoking day, the one Isaw Kyrgyzstan. runs a similarly remote, conservation conservation remote, asimilarly runs Russia, to the Kamchatka Peninsula. Kamchatka the to Russia, get there, through rapidly decreasing decreasing rapidly through there, get project in the Tien Shan mountains, mountains, Shan Tien the in project Altai Mountains, and found it one of of one it found and Mountains, Altai leopard. Signs of life were few. Then, few. were Then, oflife Signs leopard. experienced. It took over 72 hours to to hours 72 over It took experienced. NEXT: NEXT: conservation expedition in Russia’s Russia’s in expedition conservation we’d seek traces of the elusive snow snow elusive ofthe traces we’d seek HOW: WHY: Camping in the Siberian steppe. Siberian the in Camping Overland, west to east across across east to west Overland, Biosphere Expeditions now Expeditions Biosphere I joined a small, volunteer volunteer asmall, Ijoined ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Barrell biosphere-expeditions.org bumpy ride. Rising through the chill chill the through Rising ride. bumpy paddling in the Zambezi’s shallows, shallows, Zambezi’s the in paddling seat as we soared above elephants elephants above soared we as seat morning air, I dug my nails into the the into nails my air, Idug morning enjoy one of the most magnifi most the of cent one enjoy most memorable travel moments. travel memorable most WHY: WHY: branches. I could hear the roar of of roar the hear Icould branches. Atacama Desert, for a chance to to achance for Desert, Atacama torrents of water, it’s one of my my of one it’s water, of torrents the Falls before they came into into came they before Falls the sight: with fl with rainbows, of sight: ashes NEXT: NEXT: the time I arrived: I was in for a for in Iwas Iarrived: time the HOW: WHAT: rising mist and unimaginable unimaginable and mist rising and a lone gira alone at and e picking The wind was picking up by by up picking was wind The Flights from $179 (£138). (£138). $179 from Flights views in the world. the in views Helen Warwick Hot air ballooning in the the in ballooning air Hot Microlight fl Microlight above ight victoriafalls.net CONTRIBUTOR Victoria Falls. Victoria

IMAGES: GETTY ExplorE thE world’s largEst icE cavE

Unique, gigantic and one of Salzburg’s most popular attractions for many decades

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Deep in the Peruvian Amazon, Delfin Amazon Cruises will take you into one of the world’s largest protected flooded forests, the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve. With a newly expanded fleet, Delfin offers more choices than ever when planning a luxuary cruising experience along the Peruvian Amazon. On board, guests can enjoy exquisite Amazonian cuisine while voyages include visits to native villages, kayaking, swimming near pink river dolphins, fishing, daytime hiking, and night safaris.

Visit us online for more information: www.delfinamazoncruises.com IMAGES: GETTY WORDS: HELEN WARWICK & NICOLA TRUP yachtandyoga.com shade. the in sundowners iced and beaches, hidden to trips spotting, dolphin- Med, the in dips air, daily fresh of ablast promises it islands, Kornati Croatia’s or archipelago Maddalena La Sardinia’s either around Pootling stretching. and sailing both in lessons includes catamaran, all-frills an aboard venture, travel new This golearnto.com cuisine. French ofclassic plates superb on dine and Pyrenees, ofthe glimpses in inspiration find light, evening soft the in fields sunflower through walks evening Take setting. postcard apicture- in jewellery silver crafting and of moulding basics the teaches farmhouse, a19th-century in set retreat, this duo, aBritish by Run France in Jewellery-making IN SARDINIA YACHTING & YOGA facebook.com/bailandosalsapura dancefloors. city’s the hitting before steps basic learn you’ll where academy, SalsaPura the at expert local a with alesson is bet best your although clubs, salsa of full is which Cali, of city Colombian Try the exotic? somewhere moves your perfecting Fancy SALSA IN COLOMBIA

travels into education, an and shipwreck survival, turn your turn shipwreck survival, LEARNING LEARNING From fire spinning to Fromspinning fire CURVE return home with return new skills Par� 1 Par� professional and plenty of activity in the the in activity of plenty and professional masters, you’ll learn tricks for a final afinal for tricks learn you’ll masters, to the art with one-on-one guidance guidance one-on-one with art the to ‘experiences’, it introduces newbies newbies introduces it ‘experiences’, skills. Creative Escapes offers trips, trips, offers Escapes Creative skills. including one-to-one tuition with a with tuition one-to-one including fire-spinners? One of Airbnb’s new new Airbnb’s of One fire-spinners? vivid colours, Morocco is the ideal ideal the is Morocco colours, vivid from a pro. As well as meeting the the meeting as well As apro. from Fire-spinning inFire-spinning Miami With its dramatic landscapes and and landscapes dramatic its With How about a night with Miami’s Miami’s with anight How about photoshoot — just you and your your and you —just photoshoot place to hone your photography photography your hone to place training inBelize trusty spinning spear of fire. offire. spear spinning trusty island in Belize’s Cayes you’ll you’ll Cayes Belize’s in island field. creative-escapes.co.uk field. lighting fires and building a building and fires lighting learn skills such as turning turning as such skills learn you can find out, and train train and out, find can you shelter. sea water into freshwater, freshwater, into water sea Ever wondered how you’d you’d how wondered Ever cope as a castaway? Now Now acastaway? as cope for it. Over 10 days on an an on days 10 Over it. for airbnb.co.uk/experiences Snap happy LEARNING CURVE in Morocco bushmasters.co.uk 11 2017 Experiences Castaway

INSPIRED BY THE DOLOMITES

The impressive peaks of the South Tyrolean Dolomites, Ladin culture and traditions, scenery like sculptures hewn out of stone — and in the midst of it all a surprisingly different, exclusive holiday retreat. A felicitous blend of age- old culture and modernity, picturesque and heart-warming. A hideaway that allows you to set your own pace. In our stylish and elegant breakfast rooms – our Stuben – we put a lot of passion into serving a rich selection of home-made comfitures, a variety of organic breads, genuine cheeses and charcuterie, as well as selected specialties from certified regional and organic producers. Lush alpine pastures, woods and a panorama of breath-taking peaks: Summer in the Dolomites. The fascination of the bare mountains attracts hikers, mountaineers and bikers from all over the world.

PERFECT Pick your colour, Memories of silky parcels of ravioli washed down crack some eggs, with robust red wine on a sunlit square in Rome’s roll your sheets Trastevere have left me longing to make my own and get shaping. pasta. Which is why I find myself on a train on this Pasta Learning to bright Saturday morning, rattling towards… Surrey. make pasta is as Woking to be exact. The hometown of HG Wells addictive as it’s doesn’t just have a huge model of a Martian war useful. Words: machine at its centre, it also has Tante Marie — the Jo Fletcher-Cross UK’s longest-established independent cookery school. There are 10 of us in the gleaming kitchen: most have been bought the course as a present, and almost all confess to having a long-neglected pasta machine in the kitchen cupboard. I don’t even have that; I’m starting from a low base. Chef Ollie Caswell is a cheery chap, though, and quickly shows us how to make the basic dough. We start with coloured pasta — black (squid ink), red FOUR TO MAKE (tomato) or green (spinach). I choose green, and get to work cracking eggs into flour and squashing in CANNELLONI: These are big, filled pasta spinach; it looks a bit like Play-Doh, with a vivid, tubes. Roll pasta dough into a thin spring-bright texture. Ollie gives it a prod. “That’s sheet and cut into rectangles; cook very better than some the cordon bleu students have quickly in boiling water. Put in the filling made recently.” I bask in this unexpected praise. then roll up the tube. After a satisfying session rolling out vast lengths of green mixture into sheets of pasta, and then TORTELLINI: Make a small pasta square, converting it into angel hair spaghetti with the pop a bit of filling in the middle and join surprisingly straightforward pasta the corners of the square together to machine, I’m even more convinced of make a triangle, then join the other two my prowess. Until it’s time to make corners together at the front. ravioli. Somehow, everyone else has �n �i�e delicate little pillows. I’ve got a giant Pasta’s RAVIOLI: Take two squares of pasta and duvet. Ollie prods that too. “Well, easier than pipe some filling into the middle of one. it’s like in a restaurant — you just get you think Put the other on top and then cut out The one-day Perfect Pasta one big one,” he says, hesitatingly. Yes, using a fluted cutter (use a small one or course at TANTE MARIE costs that’s what I was going for. you’ll get giant ravioli). £175 per person; it covers We make piles and piles of pasta to take home: making pasta dough, lasagne sheets, little (and in my case, some quite colouring, shaping in various GNOCCHI: These small potato dumplings large) filled shapes, and sweet deep-fried cannoli. styles and using kit such as are made in a similar way to pasta, but machines and cutters. Includes I’m exhausted — perhaps I’m not quite cut out for with mashed potatoes in the dough. Make a two-course meal and a glass the life of a chef. But I do now have a pasta machine

IMAGES: GETTYIMAGES: little balls, boil lightly then fry in butter. of wine. tantemarie.co.uk in my kitchen. And I might even use it.

Experiences 2017 13 LEARNING CURVE

Take a deep breath...

14 natgeotraveller.co.uk LEARNING CURVE

The kaleidoscopic depths off the is to stay at the surface for at least a coast of Indonesia’s Komodo island couple of minutes, breathing steadily are the perfect place to master the and deeply, before turning down and tricky art of freediving. Just don’t propelling yourself into the abyss with get too distracted by the sharks slow but mighty fin-kicks. Words: Jamie Lafferty The theory sounds simple enough, but this is one of the most unnatural Don’t trust your eyes — that’s one of the pastimes a person can pursue — after main messages when you’re learning all, we’re capable of drowning in just a to freedive. Especially don’t trust few centimetres of water. Initially, them when you’re ascending. I struggle to relax sufficiently, “If you see the surface, your forget to equalise my airways body will start to want air, �n �i�e (something scuba and you’ll kick faster and use Breathe deep freedivers have in common), oxygen quicker. Then there’s and dive and obsess about the more chance of syncope.” down unimpressive readings on my So says Boum Senous, my dive watch. As a result, each freediving instructor. The Belgian time I return to the surface I’m knows what he’s talking about — it’s both breathless and annoyed. happened to him twice — but syncope is But Komodo is one of the world’s great a new word to me. “Like passing out,” he aquatic safari parks. Every time I get into explains. “Underwater.” the water, I’m surrounded by hundreds The next question, naturally, is of sea creatures, from bluefin tuna and what’s the difference between that banded sea snakes to moray eels and and drowning? What’s the difference poisonous lionfish. between freediving and drowning for A few days and dozens of dives in, the that matter? Plenty, I hope. I’m on board abundance of these remarkable animals the good ship Tiger Blue in the vibrant starts to help with the diving. The more waters of Indonesia’s Komodo National distractions I have, the more I forget Park for a week. And while we spend about oxygen — meaning I can dive for an afternoon with the eponymous longer, and get deeper. dragons, most of the time is spent in It all comes together at Crystal Rock, the water. Armed with nothing more one of Komodo’s most popular diving than a mask, snorkel, flippers, and dive and snorkelling sites. Little more than a watch, I’m aiming, as instructed, to dive rocky nubbin above the water, below it to an unlikely sounding 15 metres — the appears like a celestial aquarium feature: equivalent of swimming from the roof a volcanic cone around which a vast of a five-storey building to ground level array of fish rotate in a semi-civilised with only the air in my lungs to fashion, reminiscent of cars sustain me. around the Arc de Triomphe. Freediving is really only for My goal this time isn’t a fish, those who are comfortable in HIGH though, but a man — Boum, who’s the water. That’s doubly true in down below, leading a group of Ascending seas this abundant with life. You through a giant the Tiger Blue’s scuba divers. I need to be sure you won’t freak ball of iridescent charge my lungs, pike, and kick, out at the sight of a whitetip fusilier fish kick, kick, equalising every reef shark when you’re at your few metres until I’ve reached maximum depth, or if the water the Belgian. He offers me a fist above is darkened by a manta bump, showing me that his dive ray the size of a car. Both of LOW watch reads 16 metres. I allow these things happen during my myself a little grin, before floating The early dives, week, but Boum’s instructions when I was short back skywards, doing my very couldn’t be clearer: what of experience best not to glance at that great, you’re seeking isn’t so much a and breath shimmering mirror above. competitive spirit, more a kind of underwater Zen. LIVEABOARD TIGER BLUE sails Indonesia’s Raja Ampat Boum teaches me broadly the and Komodo National Park. Scuba, snorkelling and same techniques as those used by freediving are available. Seven nights in a twin room costs Lionfish, Komodo sperm whales, the deepest-diving from $6,800 (£5,300), sailing from Labuan Bajo — price National Park creatures on the planet. The idea excludes flights. tigerblue.info

Experiences 2017 15 BARCELONA

Montserrat | Wine | Cava

Experiencing food and wine of a country is a great way to discover its culture

www.castlexperience.com IA TT Palma, ajorca cathedral, Seu La If schoolIf Spanish lessons left you cold, pack abag, head to Spain and start ESPANOL? learning with the locals Words: Amelia Duggan and breathe breathe and Eat, sleep sleep Eat, Spanish �n �i�e �n Spanish-speaking country. Spanish-speaking any in travelling for skill invaluable —an gastronomy about conversation conﬁ Ifelt week the a hold Icould dent of end the by said, hobby. That quirky someone’s or politics about debates o could into habits turn en dining or recipes Spanish on focusing Exercises class. the to interests own our bringing energy, Lola’s to well responded We all tenses. new and vocabulary learning and o practice conversation for point ajumping- just really was this —but food was week ofthe theme The ofPalma. centre the in located school, language House’s International in Lola, native Majorca smiling ever- by led group asmall in taught I was tuition take? your did form What quiet beaches. quiet of search in coast the along and city the of out buses public take to happy I was trip ofthe end the by and lost, getting morning’s the letting lovely It was process? Was atwo-way it learning? your help exploring Did wine. and food famous Majorca’s sampling to devoted were Evenings museums. art city’s the visiting or quarters Jewish and Arab former the of lanes labyrinthine the wandering spent A generally were break. ernoons ahal co with ime 1.30pm, ee until ran and at9.30am, began Class cathedral. bay-side sensational Palma’s Seu, La of buttresses and steeples the towards out looking restaurant, terrace the on salad roo fruit by followed pool op property's boutique the in of adip consisted ritual pre-class my so Hotel, Nakar into booking by studiousness my rewarded preemptively I'd routine? daily your was What I didn’t have to overly worry about about worry overly to have I didn’t lessons soak in while exploring a exploring while in soak lessons able to ask directions meant meant directions ask to able Spanish city. I found I was on on Iwas Ifound city. Spanish more conﬁmore being too: dent, noting safari, a vocabulary to Lola the next day. Ifelt next the Lola to menus from words down conversation to take back back take to conversation ofoverheard snippets or LEARNING CURVE 17 2017 Experiences ajorca, Amelias ajorca, AMELIA DUGGAN uring a week in in aweek uring linguistic ability ability linguistic was unlocked Spanish bar- restaurant serving tapas and other traditional dishes

What did you learn from it? De S’aigo, a chocolatier that TOP TIPS If you've ever been discouraged dates back to the 18th century. from language learning by HIGH Learn with the locals stuffy school lessons, trust Sensational food, What was your most me: take a second shot. The particularly at successful interaction? progress I made over just a few Marc Fosh One afternoon, I made my REFUSE THE ENGLISH MENU days was remarkable, and doing way to the Convento de Santa Waiters often handed me a translated homework in the sunshine on a Clara, a weathered chapel with menu before I’d even opened my mouth. cafe table never felt like a chore. a convent annex set around a If this happens to you, resist. Practise The educational element added sun-bleached courtyard. I’d asking for the local menu and then LOW a whole new dimension to heard the sisters sold delicious chat to the waiter about the words you The fact many the trip, and the course felt biscuits, but there wasn’t a soul don’t recognise, or get both versions to Majorcans like an investment in both in sight, so I nervously rang a compare translations. speak a Catalan myself and my appreciation bell. A hatch was pulled open TELL PEOPLE YOU’RE LEARNING dialect called of the destination. Mallorquín, as by a chain, revealing a rotating Work out how to say, 'I’m learning; sorry well as Spanish shelf. I enquired about the for my mistakes! Can you speak slowly, What about Palma? cakes: they had robiols, crespells please?' This will endear you to everyone. There’s a lot to love: the Mediterranean and monas a voice replied. I was floored: People you meet will have patience if they light, the architecture, the modern art. Lola hadn’t covered these! Several back- understand why your grammar is shaky. But my highlight was the food. Majorca and-forths ensued, as we determined ACCEPT INVITATIONS has 10 Michelin stars, one of which flavours and prices, while giggling at my If you're chatting to a local and they offer belongs to the restaurant named after errors. Eventually, the shelf span around to show you around, don't be alarmed. As its British chef-owner, Marc Fosh. The to reveal a paper box full of coconut strange as it seems to us Brits, Europeans food here was sensational — fresh, cookies. Success! usually mean it when they invite you to seasonal, with clean flavours — and dine with their families. served in the romantic setting of a HOW TO DO IT: International House Palma KEEP A VOCABULARY NOTEBOOK former convent. As I explored Palma's offers Monday-Friday Spanish courses for all smaller restaurants, I noticed an levels from €210 (£180) a week. ihes.com You need to use a new word numerous Nakar Hotel has double rooms, B&B, from €180 emphasis on traditional recipes. I fell times to fix it in your long-term memory. (£160). nakarhotel.com in love with crunchy vegetable tart coca Until then, at least it's in your notebook. Monarch flies to Majorca from Birmingham, de trampo, the region’s famous spiced- Gatwick, Luton, Leeds Bradford and pork sobrasada, and the sugar-dusted Manchester, from £68 return. monarch.co.uk

ensaïmada pastry, bought at Ca’n Joan MORE INFO: visitpalma.es/en IMAGE: GETTY

18 natgeotraveller.co.uk WWW.CARVOEIROCAVES.COM

A GENTLE LOOK AT THIS PORTUGUESE

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Night lights of Broadway in downtown Nashville

24 natgeotraveller.co.uk IMAGE: GETTY the Amex one-tape recording console console recording one-tape Amex the find still you’ll and explanation); Greg’s is karate,” practise to liked (“He it in kicked he hole the sports still cupboard a request; athis added were spotlights green and red blue, garish The studio. the around presence ofElvis’s evidence find still can you and here recorded weeks. Top six 10for Billboard the topped song —the made was history enough, sure and, off turned be lights the demanded had King frazzled the 4:30am, Around milkshakes. and fries French ofhamburgers, belt conveyer a by fuelled morning, next the 7:30am until 6pm from songs 13 recorded had Elvis lights. the of a flick just with time in back me transported He has B. Studio RCA ofNashville’s middle the to proudly gesturing beams, Greg guide our here,” right was That microphone. the hitting head Elvis’s was thump “That up. go lights the and out cuts song the aclick, athump, There’s it. recorded Elvis as just blackness, velvety tonight?” lonesome “Are you asking: silence, the breaking out, rings voice butter-smooth Elvis’s and crackles speaker The darkness. in bathed we’re as prickles skin my and light studio the off turns Greg shook up All Nashville: comfort SOUTHERN In total, 240 of his songs were were songs ofhis 240 total, In and 1960 3April was It the in song whole the to We listen With the tinklingWith of piano keys floating Memphis and New Orleans stimulates the senses. Words:the senses. Josephine Price hearty cuisine, atriphearty to Nashville, on the air like the aromas of their dance, sleep, sleep, dance, Eat, drink, drink, Eat, repeat �n �i�e �n crowded dancefloors, and frequently frequently and dancefloors, crowded across way my twirl and Ibump bar, to bar we from move As reason. good for tourists, with popular extremely are bars honky-tonk The music. country and signs neon to homage mile-long the Broadway, to down whooping. is crowd the end, the by and measure, equal in cliché and originality with up served performance, abuoyant It’s Krauss. Alison as such stars contemporary with bill the share who musicians local dungaree-clad Cash: Johnny quotes duties), hosting shares days these (which Ryman evening. Saturday every live recorded still that’s show radio music country historic the Opry, Ole Grand the of home original Auditorium, Ryman the is away minutes Five journey. musical city’s the document exhibits whose ofFame, Hall Music Country vast the to home it’s B, RCA Studio Besides take. one in nailed be to had song every when back used, he Outside, the glow of the lights lure me me lure lights ofthe glow the Outside, the of shop gift the in book A guide music. breathes and lives Nashville fiddle players from New Jersey and and Jersey New from players fiddle “It’s the ambition of every hillbilly hillbilly ofevery ambition the “It’s curtains draw back to reveal reveal to back draw curtains singer to reach the Opry in his his in Opry the reach to singer recording. The heavy velvet velvet heavy The recording. lucky mighty Ifeel lifetime. pew to watch the live live the watch to pew as I squeeze on to a creaky acreaky to on Isqueeze as too Ido tonight.” here be to COME TO YOUR SENSES YOUR TO COME 25 2017 Experiences COME TO YOUR SENSES

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT View of Beale Street, Memphis; Country Music Hall of Fame Museum, Nashville; Sun Studios, Memphis; Gibson guitar factory, Memphis; BBQ ribs and French fries at Blues City Cafe, Beale Street; Sun Studios, Memphis

26 natgeotraveller.co.uk IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY; KEVIN GOULD sauce. Inviting interaction, Southern interaction, Inviting sauce. signature its with Memphis’ in ‘Best the promises Midtown in Shop Bar-B-Q the while version, pit-smoked the for goes BBQ Central barbecue. for go not and Memphis to come can’t —you city the away. falls flesh stringy pink the and apart bones the Itear bread. of ahunk and fries with plate plastic a to on dashed and glazed being before hours six over for smoked been that’ve ribs sticky and dark atsome looking We’re Street. Beale on Cafe City of Blues kitchen the in smoker rotisserie his into adoringly gazing me, tells Larry here,” food the make that people the “It’s ’n’Roll Memphis: Ribs options. of‘lite’ land the in not we’re but ofastupor, something induces it Sure, before. night the after necessary but heavy It’s bacon. crisped rock-solid with plate my to on dolloped is South, the in ofchoice breakfast the porridge, cornmeal savoury This up. come lights the until along sing and Idance atLegends, And tequilas. for we pause Tootsies, At band. the with jams singer atattooed Fiddle, Second The At strings. banjo over blur hands Robert’s, At Stetsons. of sea in a myself find CLOSED DOORS AND STICKER-CLAD WINDOWS STICKER-CLAD CLOSED DOORS AND I’m carving myself out a rib trail of trail arib out myself carving I’m grits. with we refuel morning, the In THE STREETS DON’T GIVE MUCH AWAY; MUCH GIVE DON’T THE STREETS THE CITY’S PERSONALITY IS HIDDEN BEHIND BEHIND HIDDEN IS PERSONALITY CITY’S uncertain future. The music, music, The future. uncertain its and past chequered region’s the ofboth speak billboards Trump various and Motel Lorraine atthe memorial King Luther Martin the Museum, Rights Civil National sobering The segregation. by blighted region in a significant hugely was phrase throwaway This anytime”. anywhere, anyone, record will “I was slogan Phillips’ Elvis. record to first the was which label, record accompanying record. roll ’n’ rock first the as considered widely became what creating up ended sound distorted that — but 1951 in record to studio atthe up turned they when amp abroken had Rhythm) of Kings Turner’s Ike actually were Cats (the Cats Delta the and Brenston Jackie For instance, secrets. musical region’s ofthe more reveals eyes) her rolling explains, she Nine-a,” (“pronounced table. aneighbouring from chicken fried ofleftover abowl to ourselves into piles of mac’n’cheese. We help even direction every from dive spoons while pork, pulled with loaded atnachos tear we as collide Hands together. strangers of crowds bringing for ideal is food Sam Phillips set up Sun Studio and and its Studio Sun up set Phillips Sam Nina Studios, atSun town Across

Great food, but but food, Great not much veg much not Everywhere Live music. music. Live HIGH LOW away; it seems the personality of the ofthe personality the seems it away; much give don’t streets The outside. the from underwhelming fairly is shop. asurf and a launderette abarber’s, as reincarnations various studio’s the survived have tiles acoustic peeling the today, and even it to feel amakeshift There’s jour. du apparently are bands Rockabilly — Norwegian fee hourly $200 the down put to willing anyone to available is and Memphis, ofmodern sounds eclectic the record to now used is studio The around. crooned Cash) and Perkins Carl Lewis, Lee Jerry Presley, (Elvis Quartet Dollar Million the piano the out pointing before Cash, Johnny record to used microphone, 55 vibes. good the propels and communities bonds still however, Like much of Memphis, Sun Studios Studios Sun ofMemphis, much Like Shure original the round swings Nina accustomed to in the South. the in to accustomed become quickly I’ve that dance-till-dawn nightly the join and Hall Blues Handy’s Mr into Islip wonderland neon this to back I head when and off, show to keen is Memphis where spot only the seems Street Beale bars. basement in and kitchens in windows, sticker-clad and doors closed the behind hidden is city COME TO YOUR SENSES YOUR TO COME 27 2017 Experiences COME TO YOUR SENSES

New Orleans: Good times and gumbo “It’s New Awlins. Not New Or-leans,” says Richard, a Southern gent in a bowtie. Elderly, suited men like him take the South very seriously. Its food, its music, its traditions, and its sense of chivalry, too — I find them holding open doors and imparting restaurant recommendations wherever I go. New Orleans oozes this type of faded charm, from the steamboat cruisers to the Palladian mansions that line the grand avenue of St Charles Street. Whispers of voodoo and the lure of the bayous echo around, but nothing shouts as loud as the city’s party vibe that permeates everything. All along the wide avenues, kaleidoscopic beads — left over from the Mardi Gras celebrations — dangle down from the cypress trees, mixing with the etheral Spanish moss; like a plastic homage to the city’s good-time spirit. Armed with my latest dinner French Quarter, recommendations, I head to the French New Orleans Quarter and burst through the door of Johnny’s Po’Boys as it’s about to close. The worn-out vendor’s face is impatient, contorting as I bombard the city. They waft through the streets him with questions about the infamous in much the same way as the music sandwiches. I scan the list — there are tinkles out from the bars. over 30 to choose from. Crocodile There’s music everywhere in New catches my eye for a moment, but Orleans. And there’s no escaping it. I end up opting for the classic: fried Even during a quiet moment while I’m shrimp. I wolf down this mass of browsing in Arcadian Books and Prints, calories, doused in hot sauce, a face suddenly pops up from behind Southern-style, at table with a gingham a heap of French books. “There’s a free tablecloth, sticky from the day’s diners. gospel performance at St Louis A little while later I’m at the New Cathedral tonight,” the owner says. The Orleans Cooking School watching trajetory of my evening is inescapably Kevin Belton as he coaxes butter and clear and, having witnessed the gospel flour into a roux mixture on a hot stove. choir fill the high-ceilinged cathedral “The key to any gumbo is the roux,” he with their voices, I’m then serenaded says. “Commit this smell to memory!” LUXURY GOLD’S nine-day Southern Grace again at supper at Arnaud’s. I watch the fragrant smoke swirl up tour covers Nashville, Memphis, Natchez and I check out Bourbon Street, scamper to the ceiling and catch my reflection New Orleans, and costs from £3,450 per person, over to its cooler little sister, Frenchman in the mirror. My mouth is agape with based on a twin share. Includes return flights, Street, and sample almost everywhere temptation, but I’m in the right place: eight nights’ accommodation, breakfasts and in between. Dishevelled and all danced five additional signature dining experiences, a local chef and a TV personality, Kevin out, I flick off the light and am cloaked plus sightseeing, luxury coach transportation, makes a fantastic gumbo — the in darkness once again. The beats from transfers and the services of a dedicated piquant local seafood soup — and the Travelling Concierge throughout. Bourbon Street below float up to my smell is as intoxicating as the taste. I luxurygoldvacations.com window. My head thumps on to the allow these aromas to guide me round MORE INFO visittheusa.co.uk pillow. It’s all committed to memory. SUPERSTOCK IMAGE:

28 natgeotraveller.co.uk IMAGE: XXXXXXXXX; XXXXXXXXXXX Visit neworleansinfo.com andstart planning your triptoday. cobblestoned corner, especially the tax-free shopping savings. cocktail. There’s something to amuse and week.delight around every the of the and dayjazz of birthplace the is city the because everyit’s Perhaps Tuesday Fat it’s Orleans, New In Mask optional.Fun inevitable. COME TO YOUR SENSES The road to Tired of yoga? Finished with facials? Take an alternative route to health and happiness, from a gentle forest bath to a Mayan sweat lodge. Words: Julia Buckley wellein

SHUT YOUR GOOD VIBRATIONS SURROUND SOUND MOUTH sinin owls son aths Besides being a great souvenir A full-on sound bath treats silent retreats from a trip to that Himalayas, INTO THE WOODS you to a concerto of noise This’ll be easy, you Tibetan singing bowls, can — from singing bowls think, as you take your also be therapeutic — played orest athin and gongs to crystals and vow of silence with a at certain frequencies, they Forest bathing — simply chanting — in a room full of smirk. Then the voices can slow over-active brain being in the presence of other people. All sound baths in your head pipe up, activity and help stress and trees — is a cornerstone di er, but they work on the and soon you’re dying even chronic pain. Used of wellbeing in Japan. idea that being drenched in for someone to say properly, they also have a Shinrin-yoku, as it’s the experience promotes something. There are profound calming e ect. known, has been part relaxation, clarity and a many forms of retreat, Experienced practitioners of a public health profound sense of wellbeing. with silence spanning tailor the sounds to particular programme since 1982 King of the scene is the vast from mealtimes to health needs; some move the thanks to its ability to Integratron, in California’s weeks, but whatever bowls around you as they lower blood pressure, Mojave Desert, originally your level, expect the ‘sing’, others place them on heart rate and stress built as a meeting point for pace of life to slow, food your body so you absorb the hormones. Whether or aliens. to grow tastier, your vibrations, like a massage. not you believe trees WHAT NEXT: The Integratron’s mind quieter and your WHAT NEXT: The raved have auras, the stillness 25-minute sound baths are pulse slower. about Sound Planetarium in of the forest can’t help performed on crystal bowls, WHAT NEXT: The Kathmandu o ers tailored but calm your thoughts. and the perfect acoustics ‘monastery’-style hotel treatments. It can get WHAT NEXT: One of make it almost physically Eremito, in Umbria, powerful — you may even Japan’s 48 government- overwhelming. From £23. o ers silent dinners ﬁ nd yourself sobbing. From labelled trails, Okutama- integratron.com — although, with its £19. soundplanetarium.com machi, near Tokyo, spellbinding location, features ﬁ ve ‘therapy the silence o en routes’. okutama- spreads. From £143 per therapy.com night. eremito.com

30 natgeotraveller.co.uk IMAGES: GE; AAM; IFAI less extreme than those those than extreme less Approaches diApproaches er, but a (Balinese er, balians starting point, as their their as point, starting form of (o of form painful) en it’s traditional healing healing traditional it’s alian healers WHAT NEXT: NEXT: WHAT studios and western- and studios Bali is near the top of of top the near is Bali healer specialising in in specialising healer £28. mundukmoding £28. internal issues. From From issues. internal practices are usually usually are practices and medicine you’re you’re medicine and most will o will most some er Suwitra, a real-deal areal-deal Suwitra, holidays, and Ubud Ubud and holidays, the list for wellness wellness for list the style healers. But if if But healers. style healers) are a great agreat are healers) Moding Plantation Plantation Moding in other countries. countries. other in is awash with yoga yoga with awash is Balinese massage. Balinese works with Ketut Ketut with works TRADITION TRADITION plantation.com GO WITH GO WITH Munduk Munduk intensity. Four-night retreats retreats Four-night intensity. pop up — it can be genuinely genuinely be can —it up pop monitored by a professional, aprofessional, by monitored controlled hyperventilation, hyperventilation, controlled pioneers like Timothy Leary Leary Timothy like pioneers properly it isn’t frightening, frightening, isn’t it properly from £940. £940. from on-one and group sessions sessions group and on-one emotional — you’ll cry, and and cry, —you’ll emotional long-buried memories may may memories long-buried which, in conjunction with with conjunction in which, However this sounds, done done sounds, this However Lanzarote retreats are the the are retreats Lanzarote where you can choose the the choose can you where practice gets intense: LSD LSD intense: gets practice well as dizziness, spasms, spasms, dizziness, as well WHAT NEXT: WHAT sounds airy-fairy but this this but airy-fairy sounds gold standard, with one- with standard, gold and even hallucinations. hallucinations. even and transorational transorational Essentially, it’s a form of of aform it’s Essentially, increase of blood pH, as as pH, ofblood increase as a way of getting high. high. ofgetting away as used to use breathwork breathwork use to used meditation, leads to an an to leads meditation, Controlled breathing breathing Controlled and while it’s usually usually it’s while and BREATH TRIPS transformational. reathin breathguru.com Alan Dolan’s Dolan’s Alan but you’ll feel a real buzz buzz a real feel you’ll but is nobody’s idea of a fun afun of idea nobody’s is devotees do it. Athletes Athletes it. do devotees underwear and striding striding and underwear around a room at -110C -110C at aroom around have those tendencies, tendencies, those have Stripping down to your your to down Stripping potentially dangerous, dangerous, potentially at the Thermes Marins Marins Thermes the at Monte-Carlo consider Monte-Carlo THE BIG FREEZE a cryotherapy session session a cryotherapy minutes in the freezer freezer the in minutes said to improve sleep, sleep, improve to said don’t faint. From £46. £46. From faint. don’t to do it. Practitioners Practitioners it. do to panic-inducing if you you if panic-inducing — and you’ll see why why see you’ll — and your medical history history medical your healing), but it’s also also it’s but healing), choose a good place place agood choose relaxation. It can be be can It relaxation. claustrophobic and and claustrophobic — essentially three three — essentially stress and increase increase and stress blitz jet lag, reduce reduce lag, jet blitz health (it’s thought thought (it’s health WHAT NEXT: NEXT: WHAT and supervise you you supervise and to speed up injury injury up speed to use it for physical physical for it use crothera to make sure you you sure make to montecarlo.com thermesmarins time, but brave brave but time, erwards. . s d r a w r e a As it’s it’s As the door is closed and water’s water’s and closed is door the rocks, turning the dark room room dark the turning rocks, pound yourself with herbs to to herbs with yourself pound stripped down to swimwear, swimwear, to down stripped tackling hang-ups and fears. and hang-ups tackling poured over heated volcanic volcanic heated over poured structure (like a pizza oven), oven), apizza (like structure transformative experiences experiences transformative exorcise bad vibrations. Yet vibrations. bad exorcise aren’t for the faint-hearted; faint-hearted; the for aren’t Temazcal in Oaxaca City is is City Oaxaca in Temazcal private sessions go deeper. deeper. go sessions private devotees swear by it — not —not it by swear devotees WHAT NEXT: WHAT physically, but they can be be can they but physically, COME TO YOUR SENSES YOUR TO COME ‘house of heat’), temazcals temazcals ofheat’), ‘house you’ll enter a round adobe adobe around enter you’ll run by a family of healers. ofhealers. afamily by run you go deep into yourself, yourself, into deep go you Group sessions tend to be be to tend sessions Group more health-focused but but health-focused more only do they cleanse you you cleanse they do only From £14. facebook.com/ £14. From into a steam bath as you you as bath asteam into as, guided by a shaman, ashaman, by guided as, teacal ritals lodge (temazcal means means (temazcal lodge A type of Mayan sweat sweat ofMayan A type SWEAT OUT IT ceviarem.temazcal 31 2017 Experiences The Ceviarem Ceviarem The CLOSE ENCOUNTERS

Par� CLOSE ENCOUNTERS Horseback safari in the Maasai Mara? Snorkelling in Tonga n a respnsile 3 WAYS TO SEE iger saari in nia with humpback whales? There’s WHALES Tiger safaris are not all the no experience quite like a same, and TOFTigers (to igers. wildlife encounter FROM THE SHORE: In org) runs an eco-rating scheme to Hermanus, South Africa, help you avoid the bad ones. One of migrating southern right the best is Tiger Trails Jungle Lodge whales pass so close, near Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve. you can whale-watch Here, 20 sightings a day is the norm. without leaving dry land. Treks and boat trips are available, but hermanuswhalefestival.co.za the highlight is heading out in a small, open-backed vehicle, senses primed for FROM A BOAT: In the Azores, a cat to emerge. tigertrailstadoba.com head out on a small whale- watching vessel for sightings of pilot, sperm, ﬁ n and even blue whales. Thanks to land- Monitor lyn woles based lookouts called vigias, you’ll get close to the action. an ears in Sloaia dolphinandwhaleconnection. Keen for some hands-on wildlife conservation work? Biosphere com Expeditions, a not-for-proﬁ t conservation body, o ers short placements on long- FROM THE WATER: Humpback term projects. In February 2018, citizen whales migrate to Tonga scientists can join a carnivore study in to breed. In August and the Carpathian Mountains as paying September, you can snorkel volunteers. They’ll learn how to detect, quietly beside mothers track and camera-trap an apex predator, and youngsters, watching possibly even capturing and radio- them suckle and twirl. collaring one. biosphere-expeditions.org responsibletravel.com

32 natgeotraveller.co.uk IMAGES: GE OS: EMMA GEGG courtship displays. naturetrek.co.uk displays. courtship graceful their see to month best the is February Hokkaido. in cranes Japanese for search you’ll macaques, spring-loving hot- famous Nagano’s visiting as well As year. of time intriguing an celebrating by bar the raises tour Winter in Japan Wild new Naturetrek’s enough, cool already wasn’t Japan in wildlife-watching if As snow onesinaan hill otwith full swing. greatplainsconservation.com swing. full in is Migration Great the when October, and August between particular but time, any —good safaris multi-day and rides oMara, two-hour ering Kenya Ride stables, riding permanent ﬁ Mara’s Maasai the rst opened Conservation Plains 2017, Great In October in Departures guidance. personal and seminars via problems thorny these on light shed to help will MacLaughlin Russ and Wild Shannon photographers expert World Safaris, Natural by created ofatrip part As nocturnal. they’re else Or trees. ofspiny thickets dense through sometimes speed, attop along bounce to love they because least not tricky, be can lemurs Photographing w pgrap earn positively surreal. it’s humans, by unfazed so is wildlife the trees, the in roosting seabirds countless the to snorkelling you’re while up swim who turtles the From Reef. Barrier Great the of tip southern the at habitat ocean aremote in oIsland immersion total ers Elliot Lady eco-friendly, Supremely lemrs in Maagascar HORSEBACK SAFARI A ON MIGRATION GREAT THE SEE SWIM WITH INTURTLES AUSTRALIA . naturalworldsafaris.com ladyelliot.com.au CLOSE ENCOUNTERS hand-uilt villas at isate hand-uilt theyre prone to stress- to prone theyre of the worlds mountain mountain worlds the of spent watchin orillas orillas watchin spent tre from as close as as close as from tre on a two- to eiht-hour eiht-hour to atwo- on n ners he numer of captive captive of numer he 0, durin wandas increase to almost this this almost to increase haituated to tourists to haituated he maimum numer numer maimum he ildernesssaaris.com National ar, at over over at ar, National critically endanered named in Septemer wandas olcanoes mountain orillas to to orillas mountain orillas are found in in found are orillas Numer of minutes minutes of Numer ourism has helped 0 individuals are of tracin permits permits tracin of of wandas orilla orilla wandas of last annual namin ay orillas were ode, the newest pad near the par par the near pad mountain orillas mountain families around around families related illness S50£50 seven metres seven ,000 metres ,000 issued daily 33 2017 Experiences ceremony amount

CLOSE ENCOUNTERS

For animal encounters there are few places better than among the birds and the beasts of Botswana’s Okavango Delta, when its floodwater pools are swollen after BLESS the rain. Words: Amelia Duggan ainsTHE

Sanctuary Chief’s Camp, Okavango Delta

34 natgeotraveller.co.uk IMAGE: SANCTUARY RETREATS through long hair. long through combing fingers like reeds tall at the push that waves small creating hippo, a like pools into splashes jeep how the Now Ilove terrain. ofthe knowledge Lena’s and vehicle the respect to learnt I quickly but up, pack simply would car the that or stuck, get or under, we’d completely go Ithought happened, first this When up!”). (“Feet seat my under swirls and vehicle the into spills floodwater the deep so pools through jeep our ploughing roads, flooded go. to time it’s and coming storm a There’s rain. force: natural life-giving, all-important, landscape-transforming, the for word the it’s and currency, the pula it’s language) local (the Setswana in word one learn to going you’re If car. the toward nods and one in his downs glasses, our chinks “ barks, he “Right,” family. ofhis voices the as him to familiar as are sounds these species: the name could ofcourse, —Lena, bird of alone squawk the ofcicadas; zither the frogs; of coo the There’s eyes. my Iclose fresh.” so It’s dust. no season: rainy the like I why “That’s baritone: deep his with majesty. its dim to nothing done has delta the in lifetime a him, for It seems, his. in forgotten, aCoca-Cola, hand, my in untouched, tonic, and —agin silence awed in guide, middle-aged aburly, Lena, with drawings. ink delicate like silhouetted, —are elephants hungry by ofbark —stripped trees acacia spindly half-light, fading the against And bush. the in us around all grazing are zebra and Wildebeest knife. aStanley with cut been have could it crisp so moon acrescent under sparkling Venus is east, the In showers. rain distant indicate veils gauzy elsewhere, gold; arich Delta Okavango the of pools floodwater glassy the turning canopy, cloud the through punch sunlight ofbright portals beautiful. soul-stirringly It’s rivers. cirrus beside cities altostratus mountains, cumulus upon castles I Driving back to camp, Lena navigates navigates Lena camp, to back Driving silence the breaks he Eventually, shoulder to shoulder standing I’m drama: there’s horizon the along All blue and ash grey clouds. Cumulus Cumulus clouds. grey ash and blue midnight oflustrous empire an is sky African wide the and dusk t’s CLOSE ENCOUNTERS : it means cheers, it’s it’s cheers, means : it 35 2017 Experiences pula !” He !” knowing wink. knowing a with says, he tomorrow,” answered be will questions elephant your all I think “Ah. elephants. wild delta’s ofthe none —but yes birds, countless mongooses, impalas, lechwes, red giraffes, buffaloes, Hyenas, drives. game our on any across come we hadn’t elephants; you?” are — how lucky depends it But trip. your on later there go you when lions see you’ll — maybe Island Chief’s on ground higher to gone “They’ve says, Lena mine). of dream along-held been has wild the in them (seeing company. the to floodplain ofthe section beautiful this lease to council village the convinced that says, Lena staff, local train to eagerness and eco-credentials Retreats’ Sanctuary was —it community local the benefits Camp Baines’ Reserve. Game Moremi ofthe edge southern the on area a260,000-acre Retreats, Sanctuary by operated concession ofthe owner part- today is village His safaris. water mokoros of the craftsmen original the and delta, the of settlers first the among were who scars. ofsmooth number a and band wedding silver thick his catching light the Botswana, northern into water the flow of the demonstrate to fingers his spreading up, forearm his He holds km.” 15,000sq over out spread Cross. Southern the and lamps hurricane by illuminated meal four-course our River, Boro bejewelled alily- over out cantilevered huts luxury of aclutch Camp, ofBaines’ deck the on out We’re sitting together. dinner we eat as later, me tells he year,” this 36 natgeotraveller.co.uk 36 CLOSE ENCOUNTERS SHADES OF GREEN AFTER THE NIGHT’S RAIN; RAIN; NIGHT’S THE AFTER OF GREEN SHADES A little deflated, I ask about about ask I deflated, A little cats big about I enquire that hear to pleased I’m tribe Bayei the from comes Lena and down come Angola in rains “The early down came floodwaters “The FLOWERS HAVE SPROUTED OVERNIGHT SPROUTED HAVE FLOWERS THE LANDSCAPE HAS TAKEN ON FRESH ON FRESH TAKEN HAS LANDSCAPE THE (canoes) still used for for used still (canoes) bath, serenaded The mosquitoes! outdoor bubble bubble outdoor Having an an Having by hippos HIGH LOW he says, raising his glass. his raising says, he “ rumble. abooming by followed ivory of his tusks. He looks right at me atme right He looks tusks. ofhis ivory rough the feel to and trunk his on hands our place to We’re invited yet. height full his reached even hasn’t he of30, age atthe —and, bull tonne delta. the in together up brought and danger, or abuse from rescued elephants, savannah African orphaned three wards: their introduce agrin. with says she Officers’,” Elephant ‘Chief for stands crossing elephants three binoculars: visitors. special some for waiting is group our exception: an is morning this But regulated. carefully are numbers tourist and large, so just is space the drive: agame on vehicle another encountered not I’ve them. to intimacy and aprivacy have delta Botswana’s in Safaris camp. the from away bush, the in out people other many so see to unusual It’s aclearing. in breath. adeep taken has vegetation the like It’s reeds. the among ofpetals haze yellow and a violet there’s overnight: sprouted have Flowers rain. night’s the after ofgreen shades fresh on taken has landscape The PARTY OF THREE OF PARTY Lightning flashes across the horizon, horizon, the across flashes Lightning First, there is Jabu, a 11-ft tall, six- tall, a11-ft Jabu, is there First, to here is duo conservation The through them glimpse I first travellers adozen with standing I’m and Sandi Groves, CEO. “It also also “It CEO. Groves, Sandi and Doug Foundation, Elephants With Living card: business her me gives She hands. our shake to over strides and ride pachyderm her from herself disentangles woman clad sight. incredible an It’s trunk. ofits bend the in awoman seating last the and aman by mahout-style ridden first the plain, waterlogged the When they arrive, the khaki- the arrive, they When Pula ,” ,” the full horror of it is brought home. brought is ofit horror full the nearby, peacefully graze sisters adopted his as Jabu, with here Standing China. after ivory, for market second-largest year.” every elephants African 30,000 We around lose seen. never we’ve which head. elephant’s every on price the about group the tells Sandy when snuffles, and snorts he as air and ofmuscle movement the feeling trunk, his on hand my resting still I’m summer. ofhigh heat the in blood his cool help that veins warm of thick, network the feel and up Ireach boy!” handsome a “There’s open. them flaps He obediently coaxes. she Ears!” Jabu! “Ears, urges. Sandi ears,” his behind feel on, “Go physique. elephant’s an in complexity and detail this imagined I’d never lashes. long ofhis tapering the and iris his around ring a white Inotice and eyes brown dark his with hunts, creating a cohesive herd that that herd a cohesive creating hunts, from or captivity from elephants more save to aims foundation his that us He tells hearing. extraordinary with mammal alarge to talking for right dreaming.” they’re sure pretty we’re so too, movement eye rapid some recorded “We’ve over. elephants other the leading adds, Doug sleep,” their in softly trumpet them hear “We often resourcefulness. Thembi’s sociability, Morula’s Jabu’s confidence, traits: elephants’ the of some lists affectionately Sandy too.” informally, understands he more alot “there’s —although, cues verbal 100 about knows Jabu Sandi, and Park. National Chobe or Moremi to come to states neighbouring in poaching fled have ofwhich many elephants, savannah African 300,000 remaining of the 130,000 some to home thankfully, I’m shocked to hear that the UK is the the is UK the that hear to shocked I’m of likes the crisis, apoaching “There’s Doug speaks very quietly, but just just but quietly, very speaks Doug Doug with 20 years around After haven, aconservation is Botswana

IMAGES: GETTY CLOSE ENCOUNTERS

A herd of elephants navigate the long grasses of the Okavango Delta

BELOW: An African buffalo

Experiences 2017 37 CLOSE ENCOUNTERS

can be released back into �n �i�e the wild. I can’t image how Intimate wildlife heartbroken Doug and encounters, Sandy will be to see these unforgettable hospitality three go after so many years of living together. We’re off walking with the elephants now, each taking turns to stride alongside Morula, who follows Sandy obediently, occasionally distracted by some tasty grass. Ahead of us, a saddle-billed stork takes flight, its legs flopping lazily under big, beating wings, white feathers flared against a pure blue sky. A pair of dragonflies flit past, their mesmerising aerial dance enthralling us for the brief moment we can see them, before they melt into the landscape. I’m thinking about how gorgeous this all is, how important it is for this to be preserved for future generations, when A jeep ploughs through the Morula reaches for my hand with her floodwaters of the delta trunk. It’s the most perfect moment.

FIT FOR A KING It’s my last night in Botswana and I’m malachite kingfisher; recognise a sitting under brilliant, star-flecked IN THREE blacksmith lapwing from its skittish, heavens by the sizzling firepit in Chief’s high-kneed dance; name owls, Camp, another Sanctuary Retreat hornbills, coucals, harlequin-patterned — this time, in the centre of Moremi, in carmine bee-eaters, and, my favourite the wildlife hotspot of Chief’s Island. Law of the jungle — the red-billed firefinch. I have Botswanan songs ringing in my The next morning, Sky takes me to ears and sensational local food in my HOW THE ZEBRA GOT ITS STRIPES the nearby airfield, leaning out of the stomach. I feel as sated and content as Lions can only see in black and white, so vehicle to inspect the fresh lion tracks when zebras are grouped in a herd, they the bloated lion we’d discovered, dozing imprinted on the sandy road. There’s a become a confusing, homogenous mass. beside the carcass of a greater kudu lion nearby, a wild tableau to discover When a zebra has a calf, it stands in front earlier that day. of it for half an hour so that the baby can and marvel at. But, the propeller of the It’d been a lucky find: Sky, the driver, memorise its mother’s pattern. petrol-blue biplane is whirring: sadly, had noticed vultures circling and, it’s time to leave. using them as our beacon, found the TERMITES ARE A DELICACY From up in the clouds, the view king of the jungle (or a king at least). The hierarchy of termites’ colonies, their is priceless: green on green, with Sky had been jubilant, as if spotting amazing tunnelling skills and the many shimmering pools and waterways a long-lost friend; he’d not seen this uses of their mounds (house-building mirroring the racing clouds. The materials, vantage points) are all by-the- particular male lion for a year. I could grassland and reed-filled ponds are by: they’re a delicious local delicacy when see the pupils in the cat’s amber eyes, scored with animal trails; the thirst fried or sundried. According to guide the tufts on his paws, the cragged Lena, when cooked they smell like roast lands of the Okavango Delta look like outline of battle-scarred ears. We were chicken and taste like peanuts. the creased palm of a giant hand. And, so close. just as with wrinkles, I suspect every A week in the delta felt more like a DON’T LAUGH AT A HYENA pathway has a story to tell. month. Perhaps it was the long days, Hyenas have some of the strongest jaws in the animal kingdom, their bite about seven rising at dawn and turning in after AFRICA SKY offers a six-night package sundown. But I think, in fact, it was times more powerful than ours. They’re including two nights’ each at Sanctuary Stanley’s scavengers that can crunch up bones and because every minute spent driving Camp, Sanctuary Chief’s Camp and Sanctuary have even been known to maul campers’ through the bush was packed with both Baines’ Camp from £3,999 per person. The price metal pots. Their wailing calls, howling is based on two adults sharing on an all-inclusive suspense and learning. screams and the well-known ‘laughter’ are basis throughout, including all game drives and Having grown up in a city, my bird used to alert clan members up to three activities; return flights from Heathrow to Maun; knowledge stretched little further than miles away about a food source. and internal flights/transportation. Based on pigeon and robin. But within a few travel in November. days I could point out the iridescent africaskysafari.com sanctuaryretreats.com IMAGE: GETTY

38 natgeotraveller.co.uk

CLOSE ENCOUNTERS Poisoned CHALICE

Take a trek through the rainforests of Colombia’s wild west to seek out the world’s most formidable amphibian: the poison dart frog. Words: James Draven

40 natgeotraveller.co.uk CLOSE ENCOUNTERS Poisoned

Trekking through the jungle in search of the poison dart frog

LEFT The harlequin poison dart frog of Colombia

’m deep in the jungles of Chocó, his arms as if drawing back a curtain stilts and, as we take a similarly Colombia’s Pacific Coast, South to reveal the dazzling blue Pacific ramshackle boat and follow the river I America, date irrelevant. When Ocean. “The tides keep time for us. from the centre of Nuquí to the ocean, you’re standing in primary growth They’re the only clock we need. When we’re stopped en route at an elevated rainforest, precisely half as old as time the tide is in, it’s time to surf; when it’s army guardpost on the lookout for itself, the Gregorian calendar suddenly out, it’s time to hike.” narcotrafficantes — drug traffickers. has little importance. El Cantil’s accommodation is basic, From here it’s a straight shot down the This is the sort of trek that makes any which only emphasises the wilderness rugged coast, zooming along beside traveller feel worthy of Indiana Jones, atmosphere. Seven huts, lit at night by playful dolphins and, if you’re here and, like him, I’m also on the trail of a oil lamps, with glassless portals for between June and October, breaching rare and precious pre-Colombian icon. windows, sit in an arc around a tiny bay. humpback whales. But, the treasure I seek isn’t the gold so Electricity is only available in the lofty, Activities on offer range from valued by Europeans since the days of domed dining hall. rainforest treks to kayaking, canoe the 16th-century Conquistadors, nor is There are no roads leading to trips, stand-up paddle boarding it jewellery or a precious sculpted idol. El Cantil. Out in the furthest and surfing, but the ultimate I’m in this remote rainforest on the trail reaches of Colombia’s wild, wild quest, graded as ‘extreme’ in El of a living, breathing icon. west, in a country that was, HIGH Cantil’s difficulty rankings, is From here, it’s a three-hour hike back not so long ago, a no-go zone, The frog- the five-hour-plus hike to try to to base, and then — even travelling by there are seemingly no roads infested summit find the most poisonous animal boat and then plane — I’m still the best at all; the only way to get here on Earth. part of a day away from the nearest city. is by boat. A small plane has The poison dart frog gets its Worryingly though, just one false move delivered us the short hop from name from its use by the in the land of my prey, the poison dart urban Medellin to the Afro- LOW indigenous Emberá people who, frog, and I’ll be seconds from death. Not Colombian seaside community for centuries, famously applied At times, the mud that I’ll be able to count those seconds… of Nuquí; it’s like landing on a its titular toxic secretions to was so deep, “Take off your wristwatch,” says different continent. The dense their blowpipe darts when even my ankle- Meno, as guests arrive at his wilderness jungle is navigable only by high hiking boots hunting, long before the eco-lodge, El Cantil in Chocó. “You’ve no waterways overlooked by didn’t keep my Spanish brought guns to South

IMAGES: GETTY; JAMES DRAVEN need for it here,” he insists, spreading shanty towns of shacks on socks dry America. There are several,

Experiences 2017 41 CLOSE ENCOUNTERS

uniquely coloured types of �n �i�e spot. “There’s one!” urges ANIMAL MAGIC poison dart frog. The golden Forest Meno, but by the time I dart frog lives in the jungles forage for spin around to look, the of Chocó and its poison is fearsome frog has disappeared. oloia willife said to be potent enough to frogs “Here’s another,” he says, but kill 15 men (not that 15 men again I’m not fast enough, and would be da enough to lick the it’s vanished under the foliage, same frog, of course). with Meno’s fi ngers in ill-advised As we set out on our epic, humid hike pursuit, pulling aside twigs and leaves, from volcanic-sand beaches up to the trying to uncover the elusive frogs for top of jungle-clad Carrizalito Mount, me to see. I implore him not to. where these frogs are most reliably Ten minutes pass and as hope and spotted, Meno informs me about the light fades, suddenly a brilliant sha of various types of trees we pass and, as sunshine pierces the leaf canopy and we get deeper into the dense rainforest, bounces a brilliant red into my retinas. COTTON-TOP TAMARIN tells me that our amphibian prey is so Having worried throughout the journey They’re smart, social, mischievous and, toxic that even touching one can be that I might accidentally touch one, I at a mere ins tall, tiny too ne of the fatal to some people. now have to restrain myself from smallest primates, tamarins have an As if that thought wasn’t enough to picking up the beautiful scarlet-and- amaing fan of white hair and are found make this sweaty schlep seem like an black harlequin poison frog and in tropical forest edges and secondary ever-long plod down the metaphorical popping him into my shirt pocket, such forests in northwestern Colombia green mile, Meno has an addiction is his diminutive, vibrant, tree-frog SWORD-BILLED HUMMINGBIRD which only serves to draw out the cuteness. The more colourful the frog tension even more: he’s a rabid though, the more potent its poison. The only species of bird with a beak longer birdwatcher. With over 1,900 avian Suddenly they’re everywhere, some an than the length of its body, the sword- billed hummingbird’s bill is so long it has species, Colombia has the highest bird inch-long and yellow-striped, dazzling to groom itself with its feet ound at diversity of any country on the planet, and deadly. higher altitudes in the Andes which slows the hike to a crawl as we All too soon it’s time to leave and stop and start while he excitedly begin the long hike home before it gets SLOTH identifi es random twitterings. A good too dark. A er a few hours, I start to The epitome of laid-back charm lus, half an hour is dedicated to trying to recognise individual trees. A hardwood once you’ve tracked one down it’ll always snap a rare immaculate anteater Meno as strong as metal; a strangler vine hangs stay in shot, given these smiling tree- can hear in the undergrowth, and its like a mantle around the ghost of its huggers move ever so s-l-o-o-o-o-o-w-l-y ind sloths in the Amaon rainforest sweet song sends me into a reverie; host, from which it squeezed out the life; dehydrated and daydreaming about a ‘walking palm,’ said to prowl the forest SPECTACLED BEAR sudden death in a dense jungle… in search of sunlight; and a wave-like Classifi ed as vulnerable by the IUCN, this A er a fi nal, near-vertical push up rippled trunk that, when struck, echoes endemic short-faced bear is found in the the steep side of Carrizalito Mount, through the forest like a drum. Andes Mountains. Try Purace National we’re fi nally in the lair of the poison Then, the bristling forest ends ark, Serrania de los Churumbelos, and dart frog, shaded in dense forest. Meno abruptly at the shoreline, the naked Chingaza National Park. casually bushwhacks a path with a beach a dusky chocolate in the twilight, PINK RIVER DOLPHIN machete, while I creep along like a ninja sliding under the ocean’s quicksilver behind him, fastidiously sure-footed, armour. The enveloping sea shimmers According to local folklore, pink dolphins transform into handsome men at night to lest I slip on this slick soil and faceplant bronze, platinum and gold, crested by charm the ladies See them on an Amaon on a toxic frog. snaking ripples of foaming jadeite. boat trip from Leticia and Puerto Nariño. My eyes scan the underbrush Mother Nature’s clock is certainly struggling to adjust to the low light, ornate and it chimes inside Meno’s soul.

which makes these tiny terrors hard to Time for a sunset surf. IMAGES: GETTY; JAMES DRAVEN

42 natgeotraveller.co.uk CLOSE ENCOUNTERS

AMAKUNA TRAVEL offers a seven-night Adventures in Colombia holiday, including the Pacific Coast and Medellin from £2,200 per person. This includes four nights full-board at El Cantil eco-lodge, three nights at Patio Del Mundo, domestic flights, guides, transfers and El Canti eco lodge some meals, and is based on two sharing. Direct international flights with Avianca, from £600 per LEFT: Cotton-Top Tamarins person return. amakuna.com

Experiences 2017 43 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

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Svalbard is an extraordinary place — a wilderness on the very edge of Europe that promises a wealth of experiences and memories, including nature’s greatest show, the Northern CEWE PHOTOWORLD offers a Lights. A er this unforgettable trip range of hoto boos online ind to the Arctic, I wanted a special way out more about creating yours at to remember my adventures of this cooo.comnc faraway, almost mystical place.

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On an expedition to the wilderness thick snow sprawling outwards, onwards Way are merely the support acts. For of Norway’s Svalbard, the Arctic and upwards. Out there, polar bears now, snaking through the sky, come skies put on an unforgettable show. roam the land, avalanches pose a genuine enormous, jade-green ribbons of aurora, Words: Connor McGovern risk, and the temperature is in the region licking upwards from the horizon like of -20C. Our guard dogs, all wagging tails languid fl ames, or weaving across the Just two lazy guard dogs separate me and pricked ears when we arrived, are black and disappearing behind the from the Arctic wilderness. now curled up in their beds. I, like them, mountains. In a landscape so hostile and The rest of the group is perched have decided to ignore the dangers. unforgiving, I fi nd solace beneath this around a dining table, blankets tucked For now I’m too busy admiring the sky. cloudless evening sky. The temperature over laps, fi ngertips fi nally defrosted. Stretching above is an almost faultless doesn’t seem to matter as I stand alone Comfortably sealed o in a heated, canvas of black; the sort city dwellers in the snow; the night sky is rarely this tented bubble, they eat carrot cake and never see. And it’s heavy with stars: some colourful — and seldom so beautiful. sip tea. Dinner is winding down now, beacons of white, others wispy trails of Cloaking it all is the unmistakable sense both the wine and the fatigue of a day’s faraway dust. An occasional comet races of silence — one most never experience. snowmobiling lulling us all into a stupor. through the sky, and sprinkled I can see plenty, but hear nothing. But nature has called, so I’ve slipped throughout are ethereal They say silence is golden, but outside. Shrouded in wintry darkness, clouds of bluish purple. now I know di erently. In Svalbard’s ceaseless expanse of winter is But the inky heavens, �n �i�e Svalbard, at least, silence is a all I can see: a ghostly o -blue blanket of stars, and billows of Milky Silence cosmos of colour. is rarely just golden

o days of snomobiling, ith one night at orth Pole Cam starts at , , full board, or from , if you dont ant to drive your on snomobile acamo.comnoaa MORE INFO: noa.com

46 natgeotraveller.co.uk BEING THERE

Experiences 2017 47

IMAGE: GETTY pyramids Words: Emma Thomson waitingstructures to beexplored of the glorious220 steep-sided pick of Sudan’s ancient sites, with pyramids Meroë is the than Egypt, with evenIn acountry more A FR ICA’S ICA’S FR A OTHER A man and his camel in in camel his and A man and tombs of Meroë of tombs and pyramids the of front treasure-filled treasure-filled A misjudged, A misjudged, sandbox �n �i�e �n gazelles showing that this area was once once was area this that showing gazelles and giraffe ofelephants, outlines the from stone: the into scratched history have bases whose pyramids empty. were one but all although Ferlini, Giuseppe explorer Italian by later adecade looted were pyramids the 1821, in Europeans by discovered Only capital. the as Meroë with Sea, Mediterranean the to Khartoum from stretched empire Their Dynasty. Twenty-Fifth the as known period a during for acentury pharaohs nearly as ruled and invaded emperors Nubian these weakening, was empire Egyptian the when 760BC, In bases. smaller with steeper them making twist: own their with albeit pyramids, for penchant the including culture, ofEgyptian aspects 500 for Egyptians the by Ruled buried. were kings and queens Kushite great the where site, northern the We’re surveying sand. the from protruding honeycomb Ancient in specialising (archaeologist ANubiologist Nour. El Hitam guide, my to according history,” Arab not it’s because antiquities our promoting in interested isn’t government “the fact the and —that, Sudan of wary travellers left has coverage news Negative visitors. fewer far receive yet and ofEgypt those outnumber far peaks Toblerone-style 4,600-year-old, whose sites burial ofroyal cache ofa part They’re ofMeroë. pyramids UNESCO-listed the see: to dawn before risen we’ve what with level come air. morning crisp the despite forehead my to ofsweat beads pulls exertion The dunes. deep the into awkwardly feet my planting them, remove to bend soI flip-flops, my over spills sand cool The off westwards. set and bag small my I shoulder as me, behind sky the stains of violet awash and early T lighting the pyramids like shards of of shards like pyramids the lighting Today, we weave between the the Today, between we weave As I pace up the last incline, my eyes eyes my incline, last the up Ipace As Nubia) with a PhD in White Nile Nile White in aPhD with Nubia)

years, the Kushites absorbed all all absorbed Kushites the years, sun rises above the horizon, horizon, the above rises sun pottery, the only thing betraying betraying thing only the pottery, blowing softly around us until the the until us around softly blowing hairs white the are 47 years his behind a hillock. The hour is is hour The ahillock. behind silence, in us, deposits and plain sandy the across crunches car he desert, the kataha the desert, curls. black tight his among We stand in the noiseless noiseless the in We stand 49 2017 Experiences BEING THERE (‘sandy air’) air’) (‘sandy BEING THERE

Royal Pyramids of Meroë at sunrise

CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT Jebel Barkal mountain at Karima; a map inside the National Museum of Sudan, Khartoum; inside a tomb at Meroë.

50 natgeotraveller.co.uk IMAGES: EMMA THOMSON SOLEB SOLEB weathered so well, but this this but well, so weathered mountain’ was believed by by believed was mountain’ founded by Amenhotep III III Amenhotep by founded home of the god Amun-Ra Amun-Ra god the of home inscribed his name on one one on name his inscribed and visited by none other other none by visited and site’s two open tombs are are tombs open two site’s of the Prudhoe Lions that that Lions Prudhoe the of have lost their shape, the the shape, their lost have burial site of the Twenty- the of site burial EL-KURRU EL-KURRU JEBEL BARKAL BARKAL JEBEL pinnacle (cobras appear appear (cobras pinnacle wall paintings, featuring featuring paintings, wall Book of of Book the from scenes kings). All Kushite kings kings Kushite All kings). on the crown of Nubian Nubian of crown the on covered with exquisite exquisite with covered Napatan King Taharqa King Napatan SUDAN’S OTHER OTHER SUDAN’S the Kushites to be the the be to Kushites the Fifth Dynasty Kushite Kushite Dynasty Fifth due to its cobra-head cobra-head its to due pyramids at this royal royal this at pyramids beauty. The towering towering The beauty. and queens had their their had queens and ANCIENT SITES ANCIENT Sudanese soil. It was was It soil. Sudanese kings to make use of of use make to kings pyramids. While the the While pyramids. surviving structures structures surviving Egyptian temple on on temple Egyptian doesn’t diminish its its diminish doesn’t Tutankhamun, who remain impressive. tombs of the great great the of tombs burial site haven’t haven’t site burial NURI NURI now stands in the the in stands now and King Aspelta Aspelta King and coronation here. coronation British Museum. British than child-king child-king than The best-preserved best-preserved The the Dead the The 60-odd 60-odd The The first royal royal first The

The ‘holy . seen at the British British the at seen with no mosquito mosquito no with the Dead, from the Book of the from Museum, carved A night spent at at spent A night Finding a scene clack-clak-clak clack-clak-clak of a generator a guest house house a guest net, and the the and net, into atomb into HIGH LOW undeciphered) Meroitic script was was script Meroitic undeciphered) (still- the Abedemak, god lion the of favour in downgraded was Amun-Ra god Egyptian almighty the culture: ofMeroitic era anew in issued rebellion The Hitam. says instead,” murdered all them having by responded he himself, kill to him for order the sent they when so priests, high the by wielded power ofthe tired grew (Ergamenes) Arakamani King Kushite that us tells “History place. first the in built being atMeroë pyramids the to led up. them swallow to trying are that sands the against firm stand they as them about ofdefiance air an There’s structures. untouched the towards Iveer and cartoonish alittle looks it But exterior. rendered asmooth bears 1980s, the in restored pyramids, smaller ofthe One work. their to returning before we pass, as sagely nod They corners. crumbling the restoring painstakingly are hours, morning early cooler ofthe most the making 1898. in Omdurman of Battle the to way their on by passing soldiers Kitchener’s Herbert Sir General British by left graffiti the to grassland, fertile that I’d that Indeed, it was an act of resistance that that ofresistance act an was it Indeed, archaeologists, Several which belonged to the warrior warrior the to belonged which six, number tomb to come we Eventually, walls. the on etching ancient the over lightly fingers my Irun and doorways different into we duck as ofexploration sense genuine a Iget barriers, by in hemmed sunlight. burgeoning the into We exit immortality.” [their] for pyramids the built they so death, except everything, controlled kings “The says. he Egypt,” in that see never You’ll gods? the than taller stand kings how the “See walls. the to points Hitam tombs, narrow of the one we enter As army. the ruled queens and created Unharassed by touts or or touts by Unharassed

Nights wild camping in in camping wild Nights In numbers bothered me at Meroë at me bothered Glorious sunrises seen sunrises Glorious Number of touts who who touts of Number (national (national ful of Plates Meroë at Pyramids the Nubian Desert Nubian the 220 dish) eaten dish) 7 5 1 0 RRP: £16.99. bradtguides.comRRP: cook. explore.co.uk cook. and driver aguide, of services the and transport meals, most accommodation, flights, return including person, per £3,349 from trip, Explorer seem so distant. distant. so seem doesn’t history ancient ofasudden All Kushites. ofthe descendants direct are ancestors Zakia’s Nubian, Atrue Meroë. at Amanishakheto ofQueen likeness the marking those like exactly jaw. They’re her towards riverbeds, dry like flowing, markings oftribal ofatrio sight I catch coffee, hot piping of aflute me hands Zakia As have. needn’t he but anything, noticed I’ve if see to atme looks Hitam compound. whitewashed of their shade cool the we enjoy chairs, plastic weathered on Sitting Zakia. wife, his and Hassan ofMr home atthe we stop route surface.” the to tombs the from washed it when gold the collect to run all they’d season, rainy the during that me told grandmother “My distance. the into far looks and frame door the on leans He past. ofthe stories for him 1909. Iask in site the unearth archaeologists first the helped grandfather whose guardian athird-generation Mawya, meet gate the at but excavations, for closed it find We nearby. ofMeroë City Royal old the to way our make and achance we take MORE INFO: It’s time to return to Khartoum, but en en but Khartoum, to return to time It’s

EXPLORE Sudan Bradt Travel Guide, Guide, Travel Bradt Sudan offers a 12-day Ancient Nubia Nubia Ancient a12-day offers you like a hairdryer, so so ahairdryer, like you from moisture the blasts it sweat; you make just doesn’t air dry the Here, explains. Hitam women,” of Kushite markings tribal the “They’re Iask. these?” are “What cheek. her across raked scratches three over finger my Itrace and a replica, with replaced been since has it —but entrance the at stone of slabs the off face ofher cartouche the crowbarred he fashion, brutish In apex. the near hidden ofjewellery stash a unearthing jackpot, the hit he which in one the and gold for search his in Ferlini by destroyed one first the It was Amanishakheto. queen,

The heat is rising fast. fast. rising is heat The 51 2017 Experiences BEING THERE

BEING THERE The Two Get a fresh perspective on rom the 49th floor of The Shard, and newsworthy, each new structure a familiar city, by taking everything looks a little peculiar. subtly altering the skyline. It’s London laid before me, The most newsworthy of all, without a trip up one of the eye- F there’s no doubt about that. But, there’s doubt, is the one I can’t see: the Shard catching skyscrapers something oddly unfamiliar about the — at 1,016ft the tallest building in that are slowly changing city of my birth — as though nothing’s Europe outside of Moscow. And while quite how, or where, I left it. its 74th-floor viewing platform sounds London’s skyline Down to my left, empty and appealing, I’m content to be 25 storeys Words: Glen Mutel illuminated, London Bridge looks down, warm and unruffled, staring awe- flat and forgotten, like the unused struck from the window of the Shangri- deck of an ageing aircraft carrier. And La Hotel. to my right, sits a little Lego Tower Staring at the city is very much of London, oddly dwarfed by HMS encouraged here. Upon arrival, the Belfast, docked opposite. blinds in my room raised themselves At this height, the city seems automatically, dramatically revealing unendingly wide and impossibly the view, while on my desk were a pair cluttered, and amid this broad of expensive-looking binoculars. I panorama certain things stand out; like happily took the hint, and have spent Canary Wharf to the east, flashing in the the past hour poring over every visible night sky like a lighthouse; or the bright inch of this curious city. unblinking London Eye to the west. Spells, however, are made to be Meanwhile, from across the river, a broken — this particular reverie by lofty trio of buildings stare back at me. the call of Western Europe’s highest There’s Tower 42, formerly the NatWest swimming pool. Having finally dragged Tower, its shape often compared to the myself away from the window, a few bank’s logo; to its right, the smooth minutes later I’m swimming micro- curves of the Gherkin are as striking lengths of the petite 52nd-floor pool, after dark as they are by day; while up while enjoying a fresh angle on the city front, the Walkie Talkie poses jauntily, below. Then, later, in the GONG cocktail like a dancing cartoon office block bar, I contemplate the logistics of frozen in mid-bounce. creating a 52nd-floor pool, and marvel By the standards of Hong Kong or at humankind’s appetite for a challenge. New York, London is low-rise, and the And, as I sip something potent and occasional unveiling of a cloud-piercing tequila-based, I momentarily forget tower has always caused a stir. However, about the view, and instead observe over the past decade, these additions my fellow guests, who all share an

have become more frequent, ambitious excitable, wide-eyed quality, no doubt GETTYIMAGE:

52 natgeotraveller.co.uk BEING THERE Towers still struck by the novelty of Shard dominates the landscape, their surroundings. its fragmented tip conducting The next morning, I cross HIGH the gathering storm clouds. �n �i�e London Bridge, now heaving The night-time I steal another glance at London will with traffic, and meander cityscape it as I make my way up a feel forever hopefully through several leafy staircase to the Darwin different alleyways, emerging, to my Brasserie, one the building’s five surprise, by the Monument. rooftop restaurants and bars. I’ve always been fond of the LOW There I’m given a window-side Monument. As a child growing table, and, over a rich tiramisu Coming down up in the East End, the highlight to earth cocktail, I look out and am of any trip west was always an struck by the river. ascent of its winding staircase, then a As someone with a poor sense nervy circumnavigation of its viewing of direction, I suppose, I’d always platform. But today I’m looking for subconsciously thought of the Thames something bigger, and I finally find it as something of a straight line — and at the end of a narrow alleyway — 20 that all the landmarks along its banks Fenchurch Street, also known as the were somehow laid out in neat rows. Walkie Talkie, due to its unusual shape, But now I see just what an erratic or the Sky Garden, after the three-storey trail it blazes, snaking back and forth, public garden that sits at its top. scattering everything in its path. After queuing briefly, I emerge Back in the clouds, a starter of from the lift onto a table-strewn plaza braised ox cheek is followed by a plate Rooms at the Shangri-La surrounded by plants, leading out to a of beautifully cooked venison. While Hotel at The Shard start from £350 per night. broad balcony. But while there’s a tall, I await dessert, I trace the river as it shangri-la.com/london transparent barrier keeping everyone skirts around the skyscrapers of Canary The Darwin Brasserie’s perfectly safe, this outdoor area is Wharf, and feel that only now do I really three-course set lunch is too much for my vertigo. Maybe its understand this city; its enormity, the £37.50, available Mon-Tue. the sound of the wind, or the contact way it functions and moves, and the skygarden.london/darwin with the fresh air, but those nervous manner in which those places I know so instincts I’d kept at bay over at the well interlink. Shangri-La spring to life and cause my Dinner over, I bid the Sky Garden legs to buckle. goodbye, head down to the street and I dash back inside, just as it begins to instantly lose my bearings. But then rain, and admire the view from a cafe down at ground level, everything feels table. This time, gazing southwards, suddenly so peculiar. It’s as if nothing is there’s only one point of focus — The quite how, or where, I left it.

Experiences 2017 53 Iceland´s Mightiest Lava Cave is now accessable

(+354) 7833600 • [email protected] • WWW.THECAVE.IS • #THEMIGHTIESTCAVE IMAGES: GETTY yielding only when they hit the sea. the hit they when only yielding landscape, the across right splattered are lichens, and grasses of coating green extra-terrestrial an with matted mostly lava, of bumps and lumps where Arnarstapi, around coastland the for Head ums At once both stern and surreal, surreal, and stern both once At and with an austere concrete concrete austere an with and distinct asIceland.Words: Mark Rowe lumps; few placesare aswonderfully Glacier trails, volcanic churches, lava exterior, Reykjavik’s Reykjavik’s exterior, Hallgrímskirkja Lutheran Lutheran Hallgrímskirkja Church looks like something something like looks Church Gaudí might have designed designed have might Gaudí while on an Arctic sabbatical. sabbatical. Arctic an on while The distinctive steeple and and steeple distinctive The ses wings are meant to refl to meant are the ect wings way lava cools to basalt rock. rock. basalt to cools lava way Easily the city’s highest highest city’s the Easily building (250 views building ), the from the steeple are are steeple the from truly striking. ICELANDIC emit a steady stream ofsteam. stream asteady emit that fumaroles and belch, and burp that puddles sulphurous including nearby, away bubbles activity geothermal other of Plenty water. hot the for route exit an creating crust, the fractured earthquake a emerged it old; an years er 200 around only is geyser the ancient, truly looks it While this. double than more sometimes can they 65 though height, in reach water ofhot bursts the Typically, so. or minutes six every erupting geyser, cooperative most Iceland’s probably is valley Haukadalur the in Strokkur point. this at river the entombing 230 of , aheight reach which walls, canyon-like the by heightened is drama The falls. of 100 around sets two over plummet to river Hvítá the cause rocks the in staircases fractured Giant up. ends glacier Langjökull the from meltwater the of majority vast fi at the see to where chance the have rst-hand you’ll and waterfall Gullfoss the Visit WATERY STAIRCASE WATERY to spot puffi ns, sperm whales and orcas. and whales puffi spot sperm to ns, chance the plus angles, other from viewed be to irufell allow Grundarfrur of fi the from village trips shing Boat it. climb to heights for ahead and guide a need you’ll though around, wal to easy It’s coast. west the above ,500ft to level dimensions that rises abruptly from sea irufell is a mountain of striingly conical Hat, Sorting Hogwarts the to Liened rs 55 2017 Experiences BEING THERE austere freezer. our of walls the off reverberating voice his us, welcomes guide Our feet. our onto crampons slip and helmets don then tunnel, the down obediently file We disembark, villain. Bond a for built mansion asubterranean to lead to you’d expect ofgateway sort the awaits, opening rectangular a discrete one. into head and do to about we’re what Idone have before never but Chile, and Greenland Nepal, in glaciers on walked I’ve landscape. the across sprinkled are that boulders and moraine ice, the up eat to vehicle the enable tyres Chest-high above. high slopes the in chink adistant to tourists transporting ofIceland, west the in glacier Langjökull the of flanks the down and up now journeys and converted been has labelled, is vehicle ofaglacier. side the up slowly trundles it as launcher rocket amultiple on sitting be to surreal than more it’s adult, or achild as hardware military into been never Having 56 natgeotraveller.co.uk 56 BEING THERE Our carriage grinds to a halt. Close by by Close ahalt. to grinds carriage Our gargantuan the as 2, Ice INSIDE THE ICE A moonscape A moonscape painted in painted colour �n �i�e �n LANGJÖKULL GLACIER GLACIER LANGJÖKULL hundred metres in length, that has split split has that length, in metres hundred several and deep metres 40 crevice, huge a we pass intervene: to chosen has nature how we see then now and every and cocoon. achilled through gliding serenely like rather haunting, degrees). zero (it’s cold the from numb are lips everyone’s maybe or spectacle, the by stunned all we’re Perhaps silent. is Everyone over. takes glow ghostly a and redundant becomes lighting glacier). entire ofthe 0.00275% just represents been have of tunnels metres 500 than More us. below ice solid of metres 250 afurther with The ice around us is about 35 years old old years 35 about is us around ice The breathtakingly is experience The low-level the adjust, eyes our As deep metres 40 we’re Soon, ice (though this actually actually this (though ice ofIceland’s out chiselled 5,500 cubic metres of metres cubic 5,500 glacier. second-largest eventually removing removing eventually how to do it, it, do how to out work to years four architects and It took geologists geologists It took empty roads past some Reykjavik Reykjavik some Driving down on menus in in menus on Whale meat meat Whale restaurants lava fields lava HIGH LOW intotheglacier.is intotheglacier.is planet.” ofour motto the be could That last. stocks while “Hurry, smiles: and effect dramatic for off gloves his peels years. 80 within gone be it’ll suggest projections change Climate available from fly-drive, aseven-night Earth, the of Centre discover-the-world.co.uk discover-the-world.co.uk flights. return and iPad apre-loaded with rental car Includes basis. aB&B on sharing two on based (summer), MORE INFO: “It’s melting,” says our guide. He slowly He slowly guide. our says melting,” “It’s

DISCOVER THE WORLD but also shocked by its fragility. fragility. its by shocked also but skyline. the on peaks distant by only constrained boulders and ofsnow, moraine miles beauty: ugly and landscape rugged ofIceland’s panorama impressive vast, the in take to light-footed, alittle and wide-eyed sunlight, into back heights. ofits gloom unseen the into up and depths crevice’s the into down peer We asunder. almost glacier the visiticeland.com I’m struck by the glacier’s size, size, glacier’s the by struck I’m we emerge long, too Before

£981 per person (winter) or £1,090 £1,090 or (winter) person per £981 offers Journey to the the to Journey offers

IMAGE: ALAMY VISIT THE VOLCANOES

REYKJAVÍK

Look us up on www.reykjavikerupts.is ERUPTS The “must” visits in the Canary Islands Loro Parque, #1 Zoo in Europe and #2 in the World, Brings New Surprises Best for Holidays: Family Fun and Unique Animal Experience

Natural paradise of fun for the entire family.

Loro Parque is a true “must visit” in the Siam Park, Absolutely The Best Water Canary Islands for millions of visitors from all Park in The World over the world. Recognized by TripAdvisor as the best zoo in Europe and second best in Siam Park, is once again Nº1 the world through its prestigious Travellers´ water park in the world, Choice Award, this magnificent park is a according to TripAdvisor! For the third year true animal embassy that promotes in a row Travellers’ Choice Award conservation of biodiversity and protection of the environment. recognizes Siam Park for its exceptional quality and excellence, as reflected in the evaluations made by the visitors in Trip Advisor Brand New! Loro Parque to Welcome African Lions having personally experienced all the amazing and innovative True to its commitment to conservation of biodiversity, Loro Parque attractions in Siam Park. takes up a new initiative and this summer offers to its visitors a unique opportunity to meet the African lions, one of the most emblematic animals of this continent but sadly highly endangered due to irresponsible human activities, like illegal hunting and trafficking. That is why since 2016 Loro Parque Foundation has been supporting the efforts for conservation of these magnificent animals in Africa, with the financial support of over 120 000 U.S. dollars provided so far to this cause. Now, with this new step, Loro Parque will work towards further raising awareness about the need to cherish and protect the lions in the wild.

240 metres of excitement, adrenaline and intensity.

Singha: The Most Impressive Water Coaster Ever Singha wins the hearts of adrenaline and fun lovers Singha is a completely unique and breath-taking water coaster unparalleled to none other in the world. More than 240 metres long, high-speed curves and 14 changes of direction guarantee a total adrenaline and excitement rush. The experts consider it a hybrid Three youngs Africans lions in a new home in Loro Parque that merges various experiences in one, combining the characteristics of a high-speed roller coaster with the excitement of a water slide. The experience starts on a float for 3 people in Red Pandas – Absolutely Adorable! line, allowing visitors to experience a brand new emotion when it Yet again, Loro Parque surprises its guests by welcoming red comes to water attractions, presenting breathtaking tunnels and pandas, adorable and charismatic animals who will reside in a fascinating curves. This spring is the best time to discover Singha, brand new installation at Loro Parque, specifically designed so a revolutionary water attraction recognized as such through that it corresponds perfectly to their natural habitat. In the east, numerous international recognitions. a red panda is often called “Firefox”, due to the fiery red and orange colors of its fur and many consider Red Panda to be the Puerto de la Cruz - Tenerife - loroparque.com cutest animal in the world. Adeje - Tenerife - siampark.net

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Take the ultimate plunge and jump from a plane above the Great Blue Hole, o the coast of Belize: it’s undoubtedly the best way to grasp the magnitude and beauty of this gaping sink hole in the Caribbean. But to truly enter its world, swap your parachute for scuba gear upon landing in the water and descend into this microcosm of trippy marine life, eerie limestone formations and perfect silence. skydivebelize.com

ie o The Namib desert is a the Sy ower land of dark skies and Par� stargazing; of rattlesnakes It’s not just the views from and dead-tree valleys; and of Auckland’s 1,076 Sky Tower that towering sand dunes. What ON will set your heart racing. Inching better way to explore this your way (while attached by a wilderness than shooting THE MOVE harness) around the SkyWalk, down them at 50mph? You a narrow ledge encircling the needn’t be an expert surfer Forget rest and relaxation, tower, really tests the nerves. or boarder; just lie down, stretch your muscles and trek, Alternatively, dive o the dive head-ﬁ rst and hold on tower’s SkyJump — the tallest tight. namibiatourism.com.na climb, parachute and plunge in man-made jump in the Southern some of the world’s most Hemisphere. skywalk.co.nz stunning settings ie across DARE TO TAKE THE HUASHAN angaroo slan MOUNTAIN TRAIL The recently opened 38-mile Where do daredevil walkers Kangaroo Island Wilderness go for a touch of drama? To Trail takes in some of the China’s most notoriously daring most spectacular and remote trail, winding its way to Mount parts of this South Australian Huashan’s summit. With a deadly isle. As well as ’roos, you reputation and very narrow, very might spot koalas, wallabies, rudimentary wooden trails seals and dolphins as you bolted to the mountainside, hike through eucalypt forest you really ought to watch your and over sand dunes. step. cnto.org.uk The route takes ﬁ ve days — either camp at designated sites, or organise transfers to and from hotels. kangarooisland wildernesstrail.

IMAGE: ALAMY GEY WRD: ELE WARWI & ILA RP sa.gov.au

Experiences 2017 59 ON THE MOVE

ascend to

Theheaven stunning Peak District is the ideal place to challenge yourself — be it at rocky heights or inky depths, through narrow passages and under icy water. WORDS: Zane Henry descendhell into

60 natgeotraveller.co.uk IMAGES: RICHARD GOODEY; GETTY Richard was at the top of the cliff and and cliff ofthe top atthe was Richard had. we ofconfidence vestiges last at the down frowning countenance, foreboding and asheer with morning Derbyshire chilly ofthe you’. out up It rose thank ‘no slate-grey of —53ft Crack Hell Hawk Black as known face rock ofthe section morning. aSunday on Cavern Bagshawe in tunnel waterlogged a in bobbing I’m while me upon impressed being are dimensions of body’s my reality flexible. very not I’m be. should it than larger slightly is head my And hips. my than wider abit are shoulders My beer. much too drinking from potbelly atiny developed I’ve stone. 10.5 Iweigh and 5’9” I’m �ay 1 climbers from around the world. the around from climbers draws that escarpment agritstone Edge, Stanage to away us spirited He promptly morning. first our on guide, our Richard, to this mentioned Ifoolishly and wall, climbing local atour ofbouldering a bit done Ihad and Zaneta District. Peak the in caving and scrambling gorge abseiling, climbing, Adventures, Earth Lost with days two spend to I’d agreed when for in myself letting I’d be what is this black. the into slip to ready get and beer, another have never to swear air, rich dioxide- carbon ofthe gulp a big Itake blockage. the of side other the to through swim-wriggle and water the into head my sink to is forward way only The me. behind feet my at is Zaneta, wife, ofmy nose the pierce. to fails headlamp little my that water opaque of grimly apool into ofme front in further down —dips helmet ofmy top the against scraping —already tunnel ofthe roof The point. this reach to mud icy and rocks sharp across 10metres crawled just I’ve dark. and cold it’s here down but Our challenge for the day was a a was day the for challenge Our crushing the because ofthis all I know I hadn’t realised realised I hadn’t because back go Ican’t and pass I can’t above somewhere shining is sun The

wiggled into wetsuits and set off across a across off set and wetsuits into wiggled We astream. up climbing —basically, walking gorge some Death. to finger middle asly gave and top the over myself flung Iquickly But reassurance. little providing belly atmy rope ofthe tug the air, the in kicking legs hands, both from dangled and slab top very the to I got as below. slipped I 25ft rocks sawtooth atthe down looking of mistake the Imade when swam head my and gritstone, the against exfoliated face my rock, wet on purchase for scrambled hands my as up halfway that like feel It didn’t —safe. technically — we were that so ropes and harnesses with up us rigged had After lunch, we headed off for for off headed we lunch, After glade to the rumbling, tumbling tumbling rumbling, the to glade waters, set against blinding blinding against set waters, greenery. As bracingly bracingly As greenery. cold water sloshed sloshed water cold over the tops of of tops the over my boots, I said Isaid boots, my the magnitude of of magnitude the handhold at 50ft the day’s events events day’s the came into focus into came Enjoying a beer abeer Enjoying Hell Crack and and Crack Hell while climbing dangling from the rope. Not Not rope. the at the end, as as end, the at Losing my my Losing unscary HIGH LOW of my body. What aday. What body. of my out rush energy the and wetsuit my into rush water the feeling panting, stream, the in down Ilaid top, the At a rope. with climb to had we that waterfall 10ft a was finale The above. ashelf from rock-jump acannonball for target our treading water. This spot became became spot This water. treading we were and up opened hole adeep feet, our under away fell beauty. much so against up right smooshed faces our have to exhilarating It was rocks. mossy the on purchase for we scrambled as heads our around exploding water climb, to we had that waterfall small upstream. way our slid and slipped we slowly as bemused looking stood sheep banks, the Along gait. right the into settle to awhile took it and underfoot slippery and sharp were rocks shifting The while. a for warm feeling to goodbye At one point, the streambed streambed the point, one At a we hit metres, few Every FROM FAR LEFT: LEFT: FAR FROM view view Crack; Hell Hawk Black over Stanage Edge leaping into a stream astream into leaping 61 2017 Experiences ON THE MOVE Zane climbing Zaneta ; Zaneta can only be about a metre long and takes takes and long ametre about be only can it though Even overhang. the beneath forward and down myself pull to bottom the along rocks the Igrab as cold and dark goes Everything it. for go and eyes my shut breath, adeep Itake through. and down than other forward way no There’s obstacle. impassable seemingly now, to the us and brings — which forward ourselves propel to below us. above ofair pocket thin the from oxygen snatch to up tilted mouths roof, cave the against grinding helmets chins, our to up water in we were enough Soon river. underground the hitting were We rise. to began slowly that puddles mud freezing through crawling to back encouragement. down shouting Tom and Richard with hole, adark down abseiling again, ropes with up rigged were we Soon senses. distorted our by challenging more the all made tunnels, watery through crawling and mud, in caked were abounded. formations rock impressive where levels, lower the to down abseiling eventually before offshoots, little into dipping caverns, steps. rough-hewn of a flight onto opening door a chest-high contains that cottage atiny within concealed was Cavern Bagshawe to entrance The Tom. specialist spelunking joined we overalls, and wetsuits day, in Next �ay 2 through Bagshawe Cavern crawling Zane and Zaneta 62 natgeotraveller.co.uk 62 ON THE MOVE Bobbing along, we used the rocks rocks the we used along, Bobbing was it ground, solid on landing After we before long wasn’t It’s and oftunnels anumber We explored Over, under, sideways, sideways, down. down. �n �i�e �n Uh… that underwater swim again. swim underwater that moment. agreat It’s silence. all-consuming such by entombed be to like felt it what on thoughts our sharing again, talking we’re soon and mud, oflife. lack immense an Just of arat. scurry the or ant ofan scuttle the a bat, of flutter the —not nothing now, there’s right we are, where but heads, our above far fashion brash its in on carrying is Life heartbeats. our and breathing our save sound no there’s talking; stop us us. around erupting spires and columns limestone with cathedral, aLilliputian inside agiant being like It feels cave. ofthe walls shadowy the against shapes phantasmagorical space. anew into we crawl chutes, mud on. press and Styx River our surviving for other each We high-five head. my shake and quickly blink only can so eyes, ofmy out water the get to hands mud-caked my use Ican’t ofdirt. tasting mouth my with spluttering up I come side. other the to over crossing and dying I’m like Ifeel pass, to seconds afew just And then we realise we have to do do to we have we realise then And the in We slowly, out sliding back of four the prompted, being Without more a few through slithering After The cave roof is low here too but but too low here is roof cave The They glow in the light, throwing throwing light, the in glow They it’s much drier, with just just with drier, much it’s beams of our headlamps. headlamps. ofour beams enough height to for us to to us for to height enough stretching beyond the the beyond stretching get up on hands and knees. knees. and hands on up get stalactites and stalagmites stalagmites and stalactites with hundreds of small ofsmall hundreds with wide, relatively also It’s sounded gentle... oh how wrong Iwas! wrong how oh gentle... sounded walking Gorge surroundings. stunning in climbing rock try to wanted and climbing, and bouldering in interested I’m alifetime. of challenge the like seemed weekend this and myself pushing I love this? do to you want made What Zaneta's take yourself and your achievements. achievements. your and yourself about wonderful feel you make will it but times, at difficult and challenging be to going It’s this. like aweekend for prepare to do can you work mental of amount no There’s it. overthink Don’t it! Do timers? first for advice Any water. ice-cold into ducking by enter only could we system cave the of part one that And that. by eradicated were they claustrophobia of remnants any Ihad —if knees and hands our on tunnel muddiest tightest, the through Squeezing challenging? biggest the was What air. spring crisp, the in breathing while District Peak the of beauty the absorbing and back looking met, just I’d someone by belayed arope on hanging building, afour-storey of equivalent the Scaling moment? favourite your was What judgement. better my against me push to how exactly knew and helpful, incredibly were guides our Thankfully, caving. and walking gorge to came it when depth my of out completely was I but new, completely wasn’t climbing so bouldering indoor of abit done I’ve you feel? did prepared How person. lostearthadventures.co.uk person. per £35 from days experience and courses skills offers also It £390. for equipment technical and safety plus instructors qualified with District, Peak the in caving and walking gorge guided weekends for two, climbing, abseiling,

LOST EARTH ADVENTURES runs privately

IMAGES: RICHARD GOODEY BE SMART BOOK ONLINE- ZERMATT. The Matterhorn and a world full of experiences

Unless you have been there yourself it‘s impossible to can enjoy a spectacular view of the highest peaks in the appreciate the sheer size of the Matterhorn and truly Alps and a world of ice and snow. Here in the biggest understand what makes it so special. The most-pho- summer skiing resort in the world, winter sports stars tographed mountain in the world is more than a hall- from all corners of the globe come together with peo- mark and symbol of Switzerland: it is an icon, a myth ple who are enjoying the snow for the very first time. and an emblem all in one. You can already see it from Zermatt, but you only start to get a real impression of For the bon viveur Zermatt also has plenty to offer, and the full scale of the 4‘478-metre mountain once you is considered a hub of culinary excellence. Whether you trek up onto the hiking paths above the village. Keen prefer to pull on your walking boots or relax on the sun hikers can explore the extensive pathways and catch terrace with its view of the Matterhorn, whether you‘re the changing perspectives of the famous pyramid of tempted by haute cuisine with Gault-Millau points and rock. The landscape around Zermatt is the epitome of Michelin stars, a traditional fondue or an international alpine mountain scenery, a picture so pretty it belongs menu, you will definitely find what you‘re looking for in in a frame. And crystal clear mountain lakes in stunning Zermatt. settings are the perfect spot for a picnic or even a re- freshing dip. Visit matterhornparadise.ch for some exciting ideas to inspire you to join us this summer in Zermatt. It is hardly surprising that this paradise attracts not only hikers and mountaineers but also all kinds of thrill-see- kers, with the alpine activities on offer ranging from mountain biking and paragliding to glacier skiing. Zer- matt is a place of superlatives. At the highest mountain station in Europe, Matterhorn glacier paradise, visitors ON THE MOVE

You needn’t be a champion rider to cut your teeth at polo — although patience and determination won’t go amiss. Words: Sam Lewis

At a Quick and agile, polo ponies can gallop at 35mph and turn on a sixpence. At least that’s what I’m told. First, I need to master riding with one hand and hitting the blasted ball with the other, if I’m canter ever to progress beyond walking speed. I miss the ball yet again, even though my mare is barely moving. Feeling sorry for myself, I dismount and skulk off to the Polo Bar for a consolation cocktail. “Beginner’s luck!” I shout, as I watch my husband wallop the ball halfway down the pitch. Tomorrow’s another day, I decide, while watching the ‘real’ players galloping up and down. I’ve come to Desert Palm PER AQUUM, a 160-acre estate in Dubai,

POLO RULES

LINE-UP: Two teams of four mounted TIMINGS: Matches are divided into player who hits the ball. No opponent players, each carrying a mallet ‘chukkas’, each lasting up to seven may cross that line, or a penalty is given PITCH: Typically, a 270-metre-long field minutes. A match can consist of four to GETTING THE BALL: Players can get the GOALS: Scored when a white ball is hit eight chukkas ball off of their opponent by using their through posts at each end of the pitch. RIGHT OF WAY: An imaginary line along horse to push them out of the way. They Ends are changed after every goal which the ball travels, established by the can also hook their opponent’s mallet

64 natgeotraveller.co.uk IMAGE: ALAMY are skilled equestrians, equestrians, skilled are some while and expats, and oftourists manner all attracts resort May. The to October from season, polo the during players host to built was accommodation its and Polo Club, ofgrooms. ateam by to tended Holland, from imported hay on snack and stables air-conditioned in sleep paddocks, lush in graze horses 200 Nearby, bloom. full in bougainvillea and trees palm by flanked pitches, grass manicured three ofthe one is suite my from view the when skyscrapers, desert famous those from minutes 20 only I’m believe to hard It’s resort. spa aboutique it’s compensation: asuitable are facilities hotel’s my However, frustration. in exercise an been it’s far so — but ofkings’ ‘sport so-called the learn to Desert Palm is home to the Dubai Dubai the to home is Palm Desert Fun. Addictive. Fun. Addictive. Occasionally Occasionally Frustrating. Frustrating. painful! �n �i�e �n 20 metres. 20 10- a feeble ball my dribble and loft and swing straight afluid, perfect Ican until pitch 270-metre the down and up weave Ipatiently so acanter, to up move we before atawalk technique correct the master Imust adamant He’s good). (that’s offour handicap a has who player Argentinian ‘chukkas’. instructional or lessons individual take or amallet, swing and one-handed ride to learn to course week-long a book Just ago. polo give to ride how to know to need don’t you The top players can whack it up to a to up it whack can players top The pro aformer is Matias Coach hundred, but Matias is drilling drilling is Matias but hundred, us on consistency over power. power. over consistency on us We’re taught to stand up in in up stand to We’re taught the saddle and lean down down lean and saddle the to hit the ball, and by the the by and ball, the hit to ball at acanter at ball acanter at ball Missing the the Missing Hitting the the Hitting HIGH LOW it’s certainly not a game for paupers. for agame not certainly it’s £115,000, and £11,500 between costing ponies polo play, to with learn to prince a be needn’t you know to good it’s while And compete. to ofponies astring need players chukka; seven-minute each after ones fresh for changed are horses that such is intensity The pros. several with goal. undefended an into pitch of the (HPA). hpa-polo.co.uk (HPA). poloclubdubai.com available.packages minorhotels.com week-long value better with class per £160 from polo anight, £190 from Rooms May. to October offers lessons and instructional chukkas from MORE INFO: With lessons over, we watch a game agame we over, watch lessons With

DUBAI’S DESERT PALM PER AQUUM RESORT AQUUM PER PALM DESERT DUBAI’S I manage to hit the ball the length length the ball the hit to I manage and click, to begin things around, loping off lot a after However, only). (if shot offside an strike to saddle ofthe out precariously hang or (unlikely), ball the gain to opponent an into her I ride if mind won’t she told I’m and player, polo 5-10mph. around of ataspeed albeit cantering, miraculously we’re lesson second My mare, Milonga, is a seasoned a seasoned is Milonga, My mare, The Hurlingham Polo Association Association Polo Hurlingham The

65 2017 Experiences ON THE MOVE

IF thrill YOU’RE seeking A …

LABEL Nature loving enjoying

BEACH BISTROBISTRO yoga-ing DININGDINING

Seaside lazing

MAD-FOR-IT Festival BIKING Gigging

...BOURNEMOUTH GOING KIND of person here Be in Bournemouth this summer

To find out more visit www.bournemouth.co.uk IMAGES: GETTY and eddies to tackle, but recent recent but tackle, to eddies and ofwaterways. miles 2,600 threading aneedle like hunting, and trading for used was transport, ofwater mode primary their canoe, the years; 20,000 nearly for here been have people Nations First borderlands. Canadian-American the in deep runs culture canoe but camp, summer like feels it gear, wetsuit and paddle plastic helmet, shiny my With backcountry. Ontario’s along we bump as rattling van ofour back atthe canoes the Boys, Beach ofthe strains the to away. fizzled has noises, ofnocturnal stories swapped merrily we when atbreakfast, mood jovial The high. running is Apprehension I only have a mile of the river’s rapids rapids river’s ofthe amile have I only River Madawaska to We’re travelling experience doesn’t fill me me fill doesn’t experience with confidence. Yesterday, confidence. with while tandem canoeing in in canoeing tandem while Mud Bay, I was dragged dragged Mud Bay, Iwas out by the wind and and wind the by out was unable to steer in in steer to unable was paddling anything other than than other anything an imperfect imperfect an paired with with paired circle. This This circle. time, we’re we’re time, beautiful country than with a paddle in hand, be iton country thanwithapaddle inhand,be beautiful still waters orfuriousrapids. Words: Tamsin Wressell and there’s nomore authentic way toexplore this S E R U S A E L P novice can can novice Canada’s relationship runsdeep, withthecanoe Even a �n �i�e �n canoe fixed on the surrounding forest of pines pines of forest surrounding the on fixed eyes our rapids, the towards downstream this. got we’ve anod: gives and turns Stefanie effortless. feels It all rocks. around veer to time in hips our moving canoe, ofthe sides the to strapped thighs our knees, our on up propped turns We navigate paddles. our with water return. in Iget answer the is kitchen,” the in work Iusually happens. that Stefanie. to Iturn bursts. panic rising my back holding dam the that turn emergency practice a hitting to aswim” “taking from scenarios, of couple worst-case off a reels who instructor, main group’s the Ian, by river. ofthe stretch this negotiate to me on rely to has who Stefanie, to out goes channel telepathically Ican sympathy the all and instructors, As rehearsal turns to reality, we bob we bob reality, to turns rehearsal As the slapping hour next the We spend if do to what know don’t “I manoeuvres the through We’re talked rock and the canoe getting getting canoe the and rock his canoe during a a during canoe his crushed downstream. downstream. crushed of our group overturns overturns group of our However, the gently gently the However, more able members members able more E H T isn’t until one of the ofthe one until isn’t it and effect calming a has water lapping OF lakeside sunrises Putting on on Putting a wetsuit Beautiful Beautiful HIGH LOW one last reassuring look. “Let’s do this.” do “Let’s look. reassuring last one for around turns Stefanie Determined. Unwavering. hand. in paddle with poised knees, my on back I’m us. behind up swings he as Ian yells “Godspeed,” path. its in rocks the challenging water ferocious the by replaced woods ofthe rustle the peace, my invade onslaught. inevitable the preceeds and river, the entering trepidation my follows that oftranquillity instant before darting deeper into the thicket, thicket, the into deeper darting before bank, the along scurries chipmunk A woods. the from coming those are sounds only the ahead, up torrents ofthe drama the For all emerges. foliage autumn the as orange fiery of flecks with ofgreens acanvas hardwoods, and Soon, the roar of the rapids starts to to starts rapids ofthe roar the Soon, resonates with me most. This This most. me with resonates that canoe, this in moment, this it’s But upstream. sets sun the as conversations lakeside of consists entertainment and wi-fi; replace campfires locally; grown is Food instead. environment the in ourselves immerse to encouraged and world outside the to connections ofour stripped been we’ve Centre, Kanu chirrups. ofbirds achorus while Staying at the Madawaska Madawaska atthe Staying 67 2017 Experiences ON THE MOVE

ON THE MOVE

ONTARIO City stop Fuel up on a food tour in Ottawa’s CANOE COUNTRY ByWard Market Lowertown area. Start at Stubbe Chocolates, the oldest family-run business in the capital, before heading to LEARN THE MOVES Brothers Beer Bistro, the first local bar to go fully craft. After that, the tour zigzags FORWARD STROKE The DRAW Used to move the Maintain the same grip around the market, ending at legendary paddle is held vertically boat sideways, the front on the paddle, rotate Island Flava Caribbean Restaurant, where before shoulders and (or solo) paddler reaches your torso and draw on owner Lennox Antoine chats to each and torso are rotated to plant out over the water with the opposite side every customer while dishing up his it in the water. the paddle, plunges and PRY To turn the boat in much-loved jerk chicken and plantain J STROKE For minor shifts pulls the boat towards it the opposite direction, with ginger juice. cestboncooking.ca to keep the boat on the CROSS DRAW Similar to the place the paddle right path, a ‘J’ shape is draw, but done on the against the boat and paddled in the water close opposite side to the one use it to push outward. to the side of the canoe. you’ve been paddling on.

Canoeing in Ontario

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Cafes and restaurants on William Street in ByWard Running deep Market; a craftsman carving The Canadian Canoe Museum in nearby wooden canoe paddles Peterborough highlights just how vital the canoe has been to Ontario’s — and Canada’s — history. It holds the largest collection of canoes in the world, in an abandoned motorboard factory. Its oldest THREE TO TRY dugout (a carved- out tree trunk) dates back to the Calmer waterways 1800s and was welcomed by First Nations RICE LAKE GOLDEN LAKE MUD BAY elders with songs and hymns. Named after the rice beds The calm and clear waters of Sandwiched between Join a carving workshop to hand-craft a that used to grow in it, Rice Golden Lake are an easy stretch Algonquin Provincial Park paddle the traditional way, from a single Lake in south-eastern of the Bonnechere River to and the Madawaska Kanu piece of wood. canoemuseum.ca Ontario became a swamp navigate, with sandy shorelines Centre, Mud Bay’s waters after the grain stopped backing on to the surrounding are warm and shallow. And, AIR CANADA flies from London Heathrow to growing 25 years ago. Stay forests and rocky ridges. when the wind picks up, its Toronto, from £554 per person. Stay at at family-friendly Elmhirst’s Nearby, Algonquin Way Cultural 200-plus acres offer plenty Elmhirst’s Resort, from £125 per night, based on Resort on its shores to Centre tells the story of the of paddle practice. Set out two sharing. A five-day whitewater course at traverse the water in an local First Nations community, for one of the islands dotted Madawaska Kanu Centre, from £835 per person, eight-man canoe; or take an which predates European in the lake — this can be includes instruction, accommodation and meals overwater seaplane tour. settlers by 8,000 years. harder than it sounds. (but not tax and rentals). aircanada.com elmhirst.ca owl-mkc.ca/mkc

MORE INFO explore-canada.co.uk ontariotravel.net IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY

68 natgeotraveller.co.uk

ON THE MOVE ALIVE & KICKING While it might seem like a laid-back hideaway, remote Alphonse Island in the Seychelles is the perfect place for working up a sweat — whether it’s kayaking, sea fishing or cycling, with animal encounters around every corner. Words: Ronan O’Shea

70 natgeotraveller.co.uk ON THE MOVE

he way I see it, there are four luxuries in life: peace, privacy, T time — and tortoises. Sadly, all are in short supply. Unless, that is, you head to Alphonse Island. Just south of the equator, 250 miles from the Seychellois capital of Mahé, Alphonse Island takes some finding. As we head there in our eight-seater plane, all I can see for miles and miles is blue sky and fluffy clouds. And then, suddenly, it appears — a green speck amid the azure. At the Alphonse Island Resort, each guest is given a bicycle for the week; after mainlining a coffee, I jump on mine and go for a ride. I cycle along dusty paths into dense forest. The coconut trees are everywhere — like many invasive species, they now have the run of the place, towering above me at angles askew, like tropical towers of Pisa, their fronds swishing in the wind. It’s very peaceful, until... suddenly, there’s a loud thud — a coconut crashing down somewhere inside the vast forest. On my first morning we �n five meet at the beachfront for a tour of the reef flats. Sunsets, serenity, seafood and In no time at all, several tortoises creatures have come into view — from stingrays and moray eels to turtles, which nest in huge numbers on the island each year. We wade through the water and out to the reef’s edge. Next we see a puffer fish, which makes itself known by puffing out the very spikes it uses to keep us at arm’s length. A little further on, we find a turtle resting inside a small hole, refusing to come up for air until we leave. The next morning I’m sea-bound once more, this time in a kayak. But as I paddle away from the island in search of more wildlife, I’m suddenly beckoned back to the beach. Someone has found a hawksbill turtle nesting — the first of the season, we’re told. A crowd gathers at a distance safe enough not to disturb her. She digs a huge hole in the sand. She’ll do this four to five times this year, laying between 150 and 200 eggs, only a handful of which will survive. Her maternity ward is basic, to say the least, but the sight is magnificent. We leave her be and return to the water. In the afternoon, we visit uninhabited Bijoutier Island, where herons swoop,

Experiences 2017 71 Photo Credit: Hadrian’s Wall (Graeme Peacock) A journey through Northumberland reveals the warmth of our welcome and celebrates our character. Slow down and discover experiences. Challenge your senses and feel the thrill of adventure. You, like us, can go your own way. WIN! An overnight stay for two people at Grade 2 listed countryside hideaway WALWICK HALL visitnorthumberland.com/itsinournature IMAGE: SCOTT MITCHELL see baby dolphins frolicking in the sea, sea, the in frolicking dolphins baby see I nature. with close-ups unparalleled enjoy to get here come to enough fortunate those that mean limits These ecosystem. delicate already the with interfere or island ofthe beauty natural the ruin to not as so time) one 70 atany of low (a maximum kept are instance, for numbers, Tourist impact. environmental its minimise to best its doing is battle. uphill an fighting they’re clear it’s but mess, the up clean to hard works (ICS) Society Conservation Island The Island. François St neighbouring and Bijoutier for story a similar it’s and alone, 2015 in shores Island’s Alphonse on up washed lighters, and flip-flops bottles, plastic including of debris, tonnes two Over alone. aren’t creatures the Sadly, beautiful. and remote stunningly It’s shallows. the in swim turtles and sharks lemon and feet, our beneath scuttle crabs hermit THIS PAGE: PREVIOUS PAGE: DILIGENT TEAM, LED BY LATIF, WHO INSISTS INSISTS BY LATIF, WHO LED TEAM, DILIGENT However, at least Alphonse Island Island Alphonse atleast However, THE ISLAND’S GARDENS MAINTAINED BY A MAINTAINED GARDENS ISLAND’S THE Latif the gardener showing guests around ON SHOWING US HIS COMPOST HEAP COMPOST ON US SHOWING HIS The beachfront of Alphonse Island Resort The light-aircraft flight from Mahé Mahé from flight Cycling around with only the the only with was bracing tortoise for occasional occasional company HIGH LOW the island’s gardens. The gardens are are gardens The gardens. island’s the in grown are we consume herbs and vegetables fruit, ofthe amount a huge while waters, sustainable in fishing) fly world-class its for famous is island (the guides our by caught is stay our during we eat seafood The wildlife. protect and overfishing limit to best their do hotels local and ICS the both but environment, die. and trapped become can This is catastrophic for such a delicate adelicate such for catastrophic is This turtles, tuna and sharks, which which sharks, and tuna turtles, as such species larger attracting them, around congregate fish Small use. after abandoned often are These tuna. attract to ocean the into devices) aggregating FADS (fish dropping Alphonse, around waters the in fish trawlers Large overfishing. elsewhere. from rescued been having many island, the on resident are ofwhich —52 tortoises giant ofcourse, and, variety and hue every of fish turtles, nesting Another big issue is is issue big Another

immensely proud. immensely he’s ofwhich heap, compost his us showing on insists who Latif, by led team adiligent by maintained carefully springs to life. The line becomes taut, taut, becomes line The life. to springs ourselves. enjoy and fishing the on up give just we should Perhaps there. in beer) local delicious (a Seybrew there’s know Ido but sea, the in what’s know Idon’t cooler. the at over Ipeer happens. nothing time, For along undisturbed. and erect stand they but something, hook to rods the We for wait of life. sign little there’s but choppy, are waters The boats. fishing Flyer now. running night’s two eaten we’ve which fish, tuna-like meaty, deliciously a awahoo, catch to Trevor chef by instructed been I’ve run. kitchen of the part as week the in later seas the to take I that ofresponsibility asense with it’s ethos, sustainable island’s the Given CATCH OF THE DAY THE OF CATCH And then, all of a sudden, a rod arod ofasudden, all then, And Iboard guests, other two with Along , one of the island’s many powerful powerful many island’s ofthe , one 73 2017 Experiences ON THE MOVE ON THE MOVE

A giant tortoise munches on the grass

the reel spins around and around. this boat without catching anything. I get off my bike, camera in hand, and Whatever’s at the end of it is kicking up Raise and release, raise and release walk slowly towards a large male. He quite the fuss. — I repeat the motion over and over, allows me to come close and lets me “You’re up,” says my guide, thrusting reeling in whenever the line cuts feel the tough carapace of his shell and the rod into my hands. I clasp the me some slack. The guide urges me the leathery skin beneath his neck. I handle and reel, trying to recall those to continue, as lactic acid wills my kneel down to take a photo. He poses fishing trips in Ireland, but all I can forearms and legs to give up. How can willingly for several moments, then actually remember is rain and my fishing use so many muscles? jumps to his feet (surprisingly fast) and mother shouting that I’m doing it I continue, reeling, lifting, sweating, charges towards me, snapping his jaws. wrong. “Reel!” the guide screams. I do as panting, but the shark is a stubborn He probably just wants a leaf, but I I’m told, reeling in with all my strength and formidable foe. He jumps out of don’t stick around to find out, aware that until the line refuses to budge any more. the water, close to the boat, but just as I’m encroaching on his territory. From “Lift the line,” he says. “Drop it, and I prepare for one final push, the rod a distance, I watch as he settles back reel again.” I lift the rod, now curved like straightens, limp and lifeless in my down, munching happily on the grass. a vaulter’s pole. I drop it, and reel once hands. The line is broken. Jaws has I get on my bike and head back, but more. “That’s it,” says the guide. “Keep escaped to fight another day. I can only on the way back to my bungalow I turn doing that.” admire him. off, unable to resist one more cycle “What is it?” asks one of my My guide smiles. “You were so close,” through the forest, one more moment fellow guests. he says. “But at least you got to see what of peace and solitude. It’s the right “It’s a shark,” says the guide. it’s like.’ decision — although as the light begins Sorry, a what? As if able to read my All too soon it’s the final night of my to fade and I’m faced with the forest’s thoughts, he smiles. “The tug on the trip, and I decide to take one last cycle descending veil of darkness, I speed line; you had a wahoo, and now a shark ride to watch the setting sun as it slips up, cycling as quickly as I can, wary not has the wahoo.” Deflated, I stop reeling. down into the ocean. I head past the to bump into any wayward tortoises on “Keep going!” he shouts. “No point restaurant and the tennis court, and my way. in stopping now.” I do as instructed. into the clearing where I’d earlier seen Seven nights at Alphonse Island in a beach There’s pride at stake. The shark the giant tortoises resting in the shade. bungalow on a full board basis, costs $12,000 might not be dinner (as a protected It’s quiet now, away from the hustle and (£9,270) for two. alphonse-island.com species, it’ll have to be thrown back bustle of the bar, where the anglers are Air Seychelles flights from Heathrow start from into the water) but I don’t want to leave busy toasting their day’s achievements. £636.25 return. airseychelles.com

74 natgeotraveller.co.uk 10K RUN? HOW ABOUT 10,000FT

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