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$849 $899 $399 $449 $499 FINDING BIRDS IN MEXICO SanSan Blas:Blas: Big-Time Birding in a Small Tropical Town by Noah K. Strycker orld-class birding and surfing ships that explored Alaska and evan- Wmay not seem to go together, gelized California. The city’s ship- but they coexist peacefully in the building days are now over. Today, easygoing, coastal town of San Blas, its 10,000 inhabitants spend their Mexico. While beach tourists funnel time farming, fishing, and providing into the high-rise resorts of services to tourists along about 20 Mazatlán and Puerto Vallarta to the miles of sandy beaches. north and south, adventurous bird- San Blas sits on the Pacific Coast ers and surfers stay in those cities between Mazatlán (four hours to only long enough to get off a plane the north) and Puerto Vallarta (two and into a bus (or car) for the hours to the south). Inland are the greater attractions of tiny San Blas. sinuous, mangrove-fringed chan- For birders, this friendly, affordable nels of the San Cristóbal and El seaport hosts an amazing feast of Pozo estuaries, home to a wide va- avian life in its lush and accessible riety of herons, egrets, ibises, par- 35995 East Wills Road mangrove swamps, estuaries, la- rots, and warblers. Smaller villages Creswell OR 97426 goons, beaches, plantations—and and plantations of coffee, banana, [email protected] sewage ponds. papaya, mango, tobacco, and sugar The best time to visit San Blas is spread out over the countryside. Overall, greens and browns meld Seventeen-year-old NKS lives in Creswell, Oregon, between October and April, when the local bird species are joined by with the blue sky and warm sun where he is a part-time U.S. Army Corps of Engineers many of “our” neotropical migrants (most of the time) to make a natu- field employee. He enjoys watching birds, drawing spending the winter. The San Blas ral haven for birds and birders birds, photographing birds, and writing about birds. Christmas Bird Count draws birders alike. The climate is also appealing, His freelance work has appeared in a number of from around the world and regularly with temperatures ranging from 70º lists up to 300 species. Some of the to 86º F year-round. regional and national magazines, ornithological area’s “specialty” birds include Ele- publications, and government documents. gant Quail, Mexican Parrotlet, Col- ◆ ◆ ◆ ima Pygmy-Owl, Citreoline Trogon, Russet-crowned Motmot, Golden- San Blas itself is easily walkable end cheeked Woodpecker, San Blas Jay, to end in about a half hour. In the and Sinaloa Wren. evening, the central zócalo comes From the 1500s until the 1800s, alive with music, people, lights, and San Blas operated as a thriving sea- food—and thousands of Great-tailed port and major stopping-off point Grackles roosting for the night. On for oceangoing Spanish galleons. a hill overlooking San Blas sits a Historically, San Blas may be best crumbling mission church and the Peso Island, Nayarit, Mexico; March 2002. © Bob Keefer. known as the starting point for the Fort of San Basilio, with its cannons
368 BIRDING • AUGUST 2003 The Laughing Falcon is a favorite with visitors to San Blas. The species is conspicuous, it is easy to identify, and it is exceptionally vocal for a raptor. Its diet consists mainly of snakes. San Blas, Nayarit, Mexico; January 2002. © Christopher L. Wood. FINDING BIRDS IN SAN BLAS
leveled at the horizon and flocks of unforgettable (and worth every Boat-billed Heron, Bare-throated wintering warblers. Just offshore lies peso). From a dock by the bridge on Tiger-Heron, Muscovy Duck, Great Peso Island, reachable by ferry (a the northeast side of town, trips de- Black-Hawk, Rufous-bellied Chacha- guy and a boat), so named because part whenever customers show up. laca, Rufous-necked Wood-Rail, traditionally the fare was a peso. The Tell the guides what you want (ges- Mangrove Cuckoo, Green King- price has gone up a bit—it’s now tures will work), negotiate the price fisher, Tropical Kingbird, Mangrove more like a couple of dollars (U.S.). (about $60 U.S. for up to four peo- Vireo, Mangrove Warbler, Tropical Just offshore from Peso Island ple), and then get on the small Parula, and Streak-backed Oriole. stands Virgin Rock, topped with a launch and sit back for a grand ad- The birds are used to boats and can statue of the Virgin and swarming venture. Even if you’re an expert be remarkably tame, allowing close with Blue-footed Boobies. birder, the guides will probably see approach and good chances for ob- Less traditional, but equally birdy, and hear many birds before you do. servation and photography. stops include the delectable sewage The boats go as far as La Tovara, a A special night trip for birders tar- ponds (a must for Northern Jacanas) popular resort by a spring where gets a variety of difficult-to-find and a jungly maze of streets on the crocodiles and people can swim to- species. Chencho leads this one. As edge of town, which is loaded with gether—on opposite sides of a net. the boat winds upriver in the fading tropical birds, such as Streak-backed From the boat, birding is spectac- light, he can call out and spotlight Orioles and Mexican Parrotlets. ular. Several of the guides know the Yellow-crowned Night-Herons, Whether expert or beginner, in birds well; Chencho is the recom- Northern Potoos, Lesser Nighthawks, town for a day or a week, most bird- mended guide for serious birders, Pauraques, and other night birds. ers in San Blas make sure to get on a but he’s not always available. He When I made the trip, he called in a river boat trip. The few hours spent knows the bird names in English: Mottled Owl and got it in the flash- gliding along the mangrove-edged light—a truly awesome sight. waterways, in the morning mists or Other than the guided boat trips, the cool of the evening, are simply birders are pretty much on their own. All you need is a pair of
Anhingas are readily observed along the rivers near San Blas. This one was photographed in an early morning mist on a river boat trip. San Blas, Nayarit, Mexico; March 2002. © Noah K. Strycker.
370 BIRDING • AUGUST 2003 binoculars and a couple of field guides. I like Howell and Webb’s excellent Guide to the Birds of Mex- ico and Northern Central America, which must be used in tandem with a guide for North American birds, as Howell and Webb concentrate on Mexican species. Howell’s Bird- Finding Guide to Mexico also is in- dispensable. For on-the-spot ad- vice, the English-speaking propri- etor of the Hotel Garza Canela (a comfortable accommodation that caters to birders) knows the area and is familiar with competent local bird guides for hire. Although you can see birds almost anywhere, I recommend the follow- ing areas because they are safe, ac- cessible, and birdy. A visit to Peso Island, where this Fan-tailed Warbler was photographed, is highly recommended. Peso Island is Peso Island just offshore from San Blas, and it is easily reached by boat. Peso Island, Nayarit, Mexico; February 2003. © James Zipp. Peso Island is easy to reach, scenic, and loaded with birds. Find a guy with a boat along the beach of San small enough to explore in a rela- Black and Turkey Vultures and Com- Blas, and he’ll take you over for no tively short time. When you want mon Black-Hawks circle overhead. more than a couple of dollars (U.S.). to return to the mainland, just Once you’re on the island, an obvi- stand on the shore in view of town The Sewage Ponds ous trail leads across its width and wave. The guy with the boat No true birder can visit San Blas through scrubby trees and bushes. will come to pick you up. without experiencing the sewage This is a good place to find Ladder- ponds located on the southeast side backed Woodpecker, Stripe-headed The Fort of town. You’ll know when you’re Sparrow, and many wintering mi- The Fort of San Basilio, located on a close by the smell. But the birds grants, such as Black-and-white hill at the northeast side of the city, make the prospect worthwhile, as Warbler, American Redstart, and is a good walk from the center of Least Grebe, Black-necked Stilt, Yellow-breasted Chat. After about a town (about a mile one way). A cob- Northern Jacana, and many ducks half mile, the trail emerges on a bled road winds uphill, through a can be observed there. Along the beach on the opposite shore. Virgin banana plantation and past a ceme- road to the ponds, look for Crane Rock is visible out to sea and, if you tery and aging mission church, ter- Hawk, White-tipped Dove, Squirrel scope it, might reward you with minating at the fort, which com- Cuckoo, Groove-billed Ani, Vermil- glimpses of Blue-footed Boobies. mands a panoramic view of San Blas ion Flycatcher, Masked Tityra, Gray- American Oystercatcher, Willet, and and the bay. Massive black cannons ish Saltator, and White-collared Wilson’s, Snowy, Semipalmated, and and crumbling stone walls, a monu- Seedeater. Between the sewage Collared Plovers could be nearby ment to the colonial days, provide a ponds and the town is an old over- on the beach. A beach walk can historic backdrop for birding. Nu- grown grid of streets in all stages of turn up more shorebirds, or you merous trees and tangles along the decay, zigzagging through trees and can explore the trees and bushes for road are worth checking for species bushes. Birds abound here, but stay Blue-gray Gnatcatcher, Lincoln’s such as Orange-fronted Parakeet, away from the darkest corners for Sparrow, and the occasional Great Kiskadee, Rufous-backed safety reasons. White-winged Dove, Grasshopper Sparrow. The island is Robin, and wintering warblers. Orange-fronted Parakeet, Mexican
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The road to Chacalilla can be quite Parrotlet, Gila Woodpecker, Lin- birdy. It wends past shrimp ponds, eated Woodpecker, Purplish-backed banana plantations, and open fields. San Blas, Nayarit, Mexico; Jay, and Orchard Oriole can be March 2002. © Noah K. Strycker. found here, as well as a variety of biting insects (bring repellent). Lower Singayta The village of Singayta, located in- land about five miles from San Blas, is considered by many to be one of the best birding spots in the area. It is not within normal walking dis- tance of town, so a taxi or rented car is recommended. Go through the village, park along the road on the far side, and walk the dirt road into the forest. Many birds may be found along this route, including Rufous- bellied Chachalaca, Lesser Ground- Cuckoo, Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, Cinnamon Hummingbird, Russet- crowned Motmot, Pale-billed Wood- pecker, Ivory-billed Woodcreeper, Black-throated Magpie-Jay, San Blas Jay, Happy Wren, Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush, Scrub Eupho- nia, and wintering migrants. Va- grants also are regularly sighted here. I was once surprised by a male Hooded Warbler, which isn’t nor- mally seen in western Mexico. The insects can be annoying, but ordi- nary repellent will generally keep them off. The Shrimp Ponds A short drive from the edge of town will take you to the shrimp ponds, another good spot with views of a variety of waterbirds. I recommend driving along the road and stopping frequently. The shrimp ponds may contain Roseate Spoonbill, Collared Plover, Whimbrel, Marbled Godwit, and a variety of herons and egrets. After a few miles, a dirt road to the right leads to the delightful village of Chacalilla. Walking this road on a sultry afternoon, I watched a lot of birds (Green Kingfisher, Loggerhead
372 BIRDING • AUGUST 2003 Shrike, Ruddy-breasted Seedeater, Lark Sparrow, Eastern Mead- owlark)—and was watched in turn by the local farmers, who were obvi- ously amused by my pishing tactics and dangling camera gear. Farther Afield A person could easily spend a week birding just the sites close to San Blas. Plenty of other good spots for birding lie within driving range, though. La Bajada, a village about 40 minutes away, provides some good birding in and among coffee planta- tions. The El Mirador del Aguila overlook, a 45-minute drive, is the most reliable place to see highly sought-after Military Macaws. Cerro The historic fort provides good views of the city and good birding. San Blas, Nayarit, Mexico; March 2002. © Noah K. Strycker. de San Juan is another good spot about an hour’s drive away, where often saw the birds before I did (and birders may see a variety of species enthusiastically shouted their names not found in the lowlands. in Spanish). A perfect day of birding San Blas not only holds birds, but ended at José’s house, where we had it also holds people. On the whole, a delicious meal of beans, rice, and the Mexicans that I’ve encountered radishes. have gone out of their way to be If you’re looking for life birds, or friendly and accommodating. On a just a Mexican experience punctu- birding trip to Puerto Vallarta, I ated by birds, San Blas offers plenty made friends with the first taxi of both. This unspoiled Mexican driver I flagged down (José) and was pueblo has a charm that goes be- delighted when he agreed to take me yond its history and inhabitants. I birding around the area for a full know people who have returned day for about 600 pesos ($70 U.S.). many times, captivated by the blue Several species of small Charadrius plovers, including the Collared Although not an experienced bird sky, yellow sand, lush jungle, Plover (shown here), are possible along the shore at San Blas. guide, José knew the area well and friendly people, and amazing birds. San Blas, Nayarit, Mexico; January 2002. © Christopher L. Wood.
rectly to San Blas and more often San Blas: Information For Travelers through Tepic). Also, the area around Puerto Vallarta offers some General Information Puerto Vallarta, or Mazatlán, and good birding spots, with a few San Blas, Nayarit, can be reached taking a bus or taxi from there to species, such as Red-breasted Chat from North America by land, sea, or San Blas. You could also rent a car. and Nutting’s Flycatcher, that are air. Although it is possible to drive I prefer the Puerto Vallarta route be- hard to find in San Blas. your own car, it can be expensive cause the airport is small and con- In addition to your passport, pack because of the toll roads and chal- venient, the nearby bus terminal is plenty of long-sleeved shirts and lenging if you don’t speak Spanish. also efficient, and buses run regu- pants—even though the weather is I recommend flying to Mexico City, larly and reliably (twice-daily di- likely to be warm—to protect
WWW.AMERICANBIRDING.ORG 373 FINDING BIRDS IN SAN BLAS
against thorns, stinging in- to The Shrimp Ponds, stinging insects. If you have a to Guadalupe Lower Singayta, Tepic San Cristóbal Estuary Victoria sects, and the sun. It’s also a 15 sensitive stomach, you may want good idea to bring bug re- Fort of SBAN LAS, to take extra precautions with pellent, sunscreen, and a San Basilio N,AYARIT the food, drinking only bottled MEXICO wide-brimmed hat. DRAFT water, eating only cooked foods, Although the language of 05/14/03 and avoiding unpeeled fruits and Mexico is Spanish, you can Armado Nervo North vegetables. Take along some Guerrero M
Mercado 0 4 Juárez ichoacán Kilometers get around with English, Sinaloa antacid just in case. Gómez Farias 0 Miles polite gestures, and a 2 Echeverria friendly attitude. It helps to zócalo Guides speak a little Spanish, at the hospital Several guides can help ensure Battalón San Blas very least gracias (thank Victoria Paredes Cuauhtémoc an organized and productive trip. you), por favor (please), Salas At a minimum, take two field and pájaros (birds). dock for boat guides: Howell and Webb’s excel- to Peso Island lent Guide to the Birds of Mexico Food and Lodging and Northern Central America, Peso Island PACIFIC Just a few blocks from the El Pozo Estuary OCEAN plus a reliable guide to North center of San Blas, the Hotel American birds (such as The Sib- Map by Virginia Maynard Garza Canela is a comfort- ley Guide to Birds or the National able lodging that caters to birders. boasts many delightful restaurants, Geographic Society Birds of North The proprietor, Josefina Vazquez, including small palapas on the beach America). I also find Howell’s Bird- speaks English, knows the area where regional food is prepared by Finding Guide to Mexico to be indis- well, and can help visitors with just hand with fresh ingredients. pensable. The 19-page section on about anything. The hotel’s restau- San Blas is finely detailed with rant is also excellent. You can learn Climate and Health maps, bird lists, and directions to more at the hotel website