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Today, easygoing, coastal town of San Blas, its 10,000 inhabitants spend their Mexico. While beach tourists funnel time farming, fishing, and providing into the high-rise resorts of services to tourists along about 20 Mazatlán and Puerto Vallarta to the miles of sandy beaches. north and south, adventurous bird- San Blas sits on the Pacific Coast ers and surfers stay in those cities between Mazatlán (four hours to only long enough to get off a plane the north) and Puerto Vallarta (two and into a bus (or car) for the hours to the south). Inland are the greater attractions of tiny San Blas. sinuous, mangrove-fringed chan- For birders, this friendly, affordable nels of the San Cristóbal and El seaport hosts an amazing feast of Pozo estuaries, home to a wide va- avian life in its lush and accessible riety of herons, egrets, ibises, par- 35995 East Wills Road mangrove swamps, estuaries, la- rots, and warblers. Smaller villages Creswell OR 97426 goons, beaches, plantations—and and plantations of coffee, banana, [email protected] sewage ponds. papaya, mango, tobacco, and sugar The best time to visit San Blas is spread out over the countryside. Overall, greens and browns meld Seventeen-year-old NKS lives in Creswell, Oregon, between October and April, when the local bird species are joined by with the blue sky and warm sun where he is a part-time U.S. Army Corps of Engineers many of “our” neotropical migrants (most of the time) to make a natu- field employee. He enjoys watching birds, drawing spending the winter. The San Blas ral haven for birds and birders birds, photographing birds, and writing about birds. Christmas Bird Count draws birders alike. The climate is also appealing, His freelance work has appeared in a number of from around the world and regularly with temperatures ranging from 70º lists up to 300 species. Some of the to 86º F year-round. regional and national magazines, ornithological area’s “specialty” birds include Ele- publications, and government documents. gant Quail, Mexican Parrotlet, Col- ◆ ◆ ◆ ima Pygmy-Owl, Citreoline Trogon, Russet-crowned Motmot, Golden- San Blas itself is easily walkable end cheeked Woodpecker, San Blas Jay, to end in about a half hour. In the and Sinaloa Wren. evening, the central zócalo comes From the 1500s until the 1800s, alive with music, people, lights, and San Blas operated as a thriving sea- food—and thousands of Great-tailed port and major stopping-off point Grackles roosting for the night. On for oceangoing Spanish galleons. a hill overlooking San Blas sits a Historically, San Blas may be best crumbling mission church and the Peso Island, Nayarit, Mexico; March 2002. © Bob Keefer. known as the starting point for the Fort of San Basilio, with its cannons 368 BIRDING • AUGUST 2003 The Laughing Falcon is a favorite with visitors to San Blas. The species is conspicuous, it is easy to identify, and it is exceptionally vocal for a raptor. Its diet consists mainly of snakes. San Blas, Nayarit, Mexico; January 2002. © Christopher L. Wood. FINDING BIRDS IN SAN BLAS leveled at the horizon and flocks of unforgettable (and worth every Boat-billed Heron, Bare-throated wintering warblers. Just offshore lies peso). From a dock by the bridge on Tiger-Heron, Muscovy Duck, Great Peso Island, reachable by ferry (a the northeast side of town, trips de- Black-Hawk, Rufous-bellied Chacha- guy and a boat), so named because part whenever customers show up. laca, Rufous-necked Wood-Rail, traditionally the fare was a peso. The Tell the guides what you want (ges- Mangrove Cuckoo, Green King- price has gone up a bit—it’s now tures will work), negotiate the price fisher, Tropical Kingbird, Mangrove more like a couple of dollars (U.S.). (about $60 U.S. for up to four peo- Vireo, Mangrove Warbler, Tropical Just offshore from Peso Island ple), and then get on the small Parula, and Streak-backed Oriole. stands Virgin Rock, topped with a launch and sit back for a grand ad- The birds are used to boats and can statue of the Virgin and swarming venture. Even if you’re an expert be remarkably tame, allowing close with Blue-footed Boobies. birder, the guides will probably see approach and good chances for ob- Less traditional, but equally birdy, and hear many birds before you do. servation and photography. stops include the delectable sewage The boats go as far as La Tovara, a A special night trip for birders tar- ponds (a must for Northern Jacanas) popular resort by a spring where gets a variety of difficult-to-find and a jungly maze of streets on the crocodiles and people can swim to- species. Chencho leads this one. As edge of town, which is loaded with gether—on opposite sides of a net. the boat winds upriver in the fading tropical birds, such as Streak-backed From the boat, birding is spectac- light, he can call out and spotlight Orioles and Mexican Parrotlets. ular. Several of the guides know the Yellow-crowned Night-Herons, Whether expert or beginner, in birds well; Chencho is the recom- Northern Potoos, Lesser Nighthawks, town for a day or a week, most bird- mended guide for serious birders, Pauraques, and other night birds. ers in San Blas make sure to get on a but he’s not always available. He When I made the trip, he called in a river boat trip. The few hours spent knows the bird names in English: Mottled Owl and got it in the flash- gliding along the mangrove-edged light—a truly awesome sight. waterways, in the morning mists or Other than the guided boat trips, the cool of the evening, are simply birders are pretty much on their own. All you need is a pair of Anhingas are readily observed along the rivers near San Blas. This one was photographed in an early morning mist on a river boat trip. San Blas, Nayarit, Mexico; March 2002. © Noah K. Strycker. 370 BIRDING • AUGUST 2003 binoculars and a couple of field guides. I like Howell and Webb’s excellent Guide to the Birds of Mex- ico and Northern Central America, which must be used in tandem with a guide for North American birds, as Howell and Webb concentrate on Mexican species. Howell’s Bird- Finding Guide to Mexico also is in- dispensable. For on-the-spot ad- vice, the English-speaking propri- etor of the Hotel Garza Canela (a comfortable accommodation that caters to birders) knows the area and is familiar with competent local bird guides for hire. Although you can see birds almost anywhere, I recommend the follow- ing areas because they are safe, ac- cessible, and birdy. A visit to Peso Island, where this Fan-tailed Warbler was photographed, is highly recommended. Peso Island is Peso Island just offshore from San Blas, and it is easily reached by boat. Peso Island, Nayarit, Mexico; February 2003. © James Zipp. Peso Island is easy to reach, scenic, and loaded with birds. Find a guy with a boat along the beach of San small enough to explore in a rela- Black and Turkey Vultures and Com- Blas, and he’ll take you over for no tively short time. When you want mon Black-Hawks circle overhead. more than a couple of dollars (U.S.). to return to the mainland, just Once you’re on the island, an obvi- stand on the shore in view of town The Sewage Ponds ous trail leads across its width and wave. The guy with the boat No true birder can visit San Blas through scrubby trees and bushes. will come to pick you up. without experiencing the sewage This is a good place to find Ladder- ponds located on the southeast side backed Woodpecker, Stripe-headed The Fort of town.