HAND- BOOK

B E N A R E S

E . ARTH! R PARKER R V ,

LON DON K I SSI ONAR Y SOCIETY .

W M AP OF THE Y ITH A CIT .

d d iti S eco nd and Rev i se E o n .

E r i b a n b r u m :

PRINT ED AT Ti l l-I TRAVANCORE GOVERNMENT

1901.

HAND- BOOK

B E N A R E S ,

B Y THE

RE V . ARTH! R PAR KER ,

LON DON M I I ON ARY O I SS S C E TY .

WI MAP OF THE CI Y TH A T .

Se n d a n d ev i s d co R e Ed iti o n .

fi r i h a u h r u m ;

PRINT ED AT THE TRAVANCORE GOVERNMENT PRESS, 7 8 ! b i b !

HARVARD COLLE GE LIB RARY FRO M THE LIB RARY OF HORACE FLETCHER THE GIFT OF WI LLIAM DANA ORC! TT ! m a - n v 1 1 | 9 2i P EF E R A C .

In th i s secon d edition of th e Handbook to Benares n s a there ar e several im porta t alterations. The Hi toric l sketch h as been to a great extent r e- written an d a num ber of correction s made here an d there i n other parts of th e i n a es a se an d i t book, while the ti er ri h ve been revi d , i s e . hoped, improv d It i s grievou s to a lover of the grey old city to hear of so m an y visitors who se anticipation s have b een es ar e u s a gr eater far than their realizati on . Th e not u lly e an a s e e a n to s e a s p ople of rti tic t mp r me t, for uch B n re , B u i ts n e h u n t i s a a . t with wo d rful river , mine of we lth to os m a e an d w i tl1 th e who co e from Agr , D lhi Lucknow their gorgeous an d massive specimens of M uh ammadan a t u x e n to e s a e s rchi ect re, e p cti g find h re imil r vidence of

n ar t a a sa n e i s n a e . I n Hi du , gre t di ppoi tm nt i evit bl tru th the distin gu ishing featu re of Ben ares i s n either architectu ral m agn ificen ce nor artistic beauty i n any or m an d a ss ss s e es i s u f , wh t it po e e of eith r of th e p rely ac n a as o an d s n of th e u s cide t l, but the h me hri e religio faith which sways the Hindu n ation s it i s u ni qu e an d u n i a n u an d as n a n a en awe r v lled . Wo derf l f ci ting, y ev n s n n a s u i s b u t sh e s n ot h e1 i piri g, Be re tr ly , doe yield se r as e- o can r e a c et e ily . A guid b ok do little mo th n poi n t ou t th e beaten tracks an d i n dicate where the r easu s a i s th e a i n s t re lie hid . H ppy tr veller who br g with him the wise an d discern in g eye an d the sym path e

m . a s a n a ai d tic ind H ppier till if, in dditio , he h ve the — — of a livin g gu ide b e he In dian or Eu ropean who wi ll gen tly dr aw aside the veil which hides from the vu lgar ’ an d hasty the secrets of the city s past glory an d presen t o S u v s r u n a n m et p wer . ho ld the i itor be fo t te e ough to e su ch an on e then this little book m u st be con ten t to drop i n to a s n a a and SCI VO i n aftei a s a eco d ry pl ce, d y to rec ll th e ou t- line an d retai n th e m ai n featu 1 es of a ci ty of w on ders.

Tr i van dr r r u m , T a va nco e, r h 01 Ma c , 19 . C O N T E N T S

PREEACE .

I In t o ti on CHAPTER . r duc

A H t r i a Ske ch CHAPTER II . is o c l t

T R II Pr sen t- da B en a es CHAP E I . e y r

T A h ab eti ca i t of P aces an d CHAP ER IV . lp l l s l Object of

CHAPTER V Hin ts to Tr av ellers

In dex

Rates of Hire of Hackn ey Car r i ages

A F B E RE To f e M A S ce T t a . P O N . a i le p g

CHAP TE R I .

I n t r o d u c t i o n .

The traveller who approaches Benares by railway f rom Calcutta m ay obtain from the ca rriage window i s f ss As o n e of the finest v ew o the city po ible . the trai n nears the gr eat b ridge which spans th e broad b s Ga s s e1 1 11 o om of the nge , the buildincg on the n the s s an d a a r ide come lowly into view, gr du lly g ow on th e s s r a ight till, t etched long the top of the lofty b a an d n a s th e nk looking down i to the rippling w ter , c i s s s a ity een itting like queen on her throne, with h er spi 1 es an d minarets standing clear out agai nst th e a as sk an d s n brilli nt blue of the e tern y , the to e stairways of the ghats running out below into th e sa r s a s s s an d c ed tre m, urely one of the mo t impo ing i r ess s s i n all a mp ive ight Indi . The Du fier i n Bridge which car i i es the Du de an d R oh i lkh an d r ailway over the Ganges i s a very fin e s d a s i an . i s tructure, triumph of engineering k ll It c s ste s h n on tructed of el girder , rivetted toget er u der h a ss an d s s a ss e s ydr ulic pre ure, re t on fifteen m ive pi r o f a a m sonry . The tot l length of the bridge i s an d i t R s r 5 s . o o e 7 a feet, co t per foot v r l cs f s all e ar a to as o rupee in . Vehicl s e llowed p s over th e br idge during the in terv al s of railway traffi c an d a a i s ea s for ass e s p th provided on ch ide foot p eng r . i s str n y at ei t e en d ass 1 11 er s It o ogl fortified h r by m i e to , c l oo - h an d tu r r etted an d t i t i s p oled fi ted w h ron door , s o a t a 1 er s a r e 11 o b e a e to e en th y m ll fo c uld bl d f d it . I t o1 e1 se1 e11 ea1 s i 1a 1 i n took 1 in bu lding, l g be en c omm en ced i n Ju n e 1880 a n d b eing f0 r 1n al l 1 on en ed ’ b or u fl l m i n Ot tob l 1887 y L d D e e . 2

Benares i s the capital of a province which bear s th e same n ame an d which includes the districts o f B a s M a Jau n u r G a u an d a a an d en re , irz pur, p , h zip r B lli c a ns a a n m i s Th ont i popul tion of early five llion soul . e c i s s a a an d h ity the e t of the loc l Government as a. garrison made up of a wi n g of a B ritish infantry r e i m en t an d a n a n an all om g regiment of tive i f try, of wh a r e accom modated on th e extensive plain which skir ts h i t e r a a Can S a . lw y, north of the tonment t tion Ca n E a u a s th e The nto ment, or urope n q rter, lie to west of the city where the whitewashed bungalows of n s s m a s b e s the foreig re ident y be een em owered in tre , i t ow m n a n d each set in s n co pou d . ar e s i n sa u ar er There two good hotel the me q t , ’ C a s an d Pa s th e l rke the Hotel de ri , the former being i i s a sa a s b e oldest establ shed . It dvi ble to eng ge room a a s i a r s as om fore rriv l, e pec lly du ing the cool e on fr a November to M rch . s a h i s h a s een The city, con erv tive t ough it , not b a ble to escape altogether the tide of change which h as set i n with British rule an d the fin e m etalled roads which run from the Cantonment to th e very heart of a r e of s a a al the city, evidence the pre ence of pr ctic

a - s c n c s a n d energetic race . The w ter work whi h w u p ply the city with filtered water pumped up fr om th e a c a b een a a th e r iver, h ve onferred much ppreci ted by

a s o - s a th e n ative popul tion, though the m ke t ck of s a n a s i ts a am th e pumping t tio , which re r he d ong s n en d a s a a s to th e spires at the outher of the gh t , h rdly dd i s a a u m beauty of the scene . The city gre t empori a s a a an d n a s ffs o f tr de, e peci lly in gr in tive food tu a s s u n th e g en erally . From the rich pl in which urro d a s a an d m e an d c ity vast qu ntitie of whe t rice, ill t i s as as n fi s a u th e lent l , well u re ned ug r po r into s f r sa b azaar o le . The manufactures of Benares have been famous for u s n ot i n a u th e c ent rie only Indi , but througho t 3

aca h i s ssa a r world . M ulay in e y on W r en Hasti ngs a s s a as a a e e de rec ll the glorie , now l , in gre t d gre ’ ! f s a i s ar o s e . Com p ted, the city f me in th re p ct ! h d a s a i l s sa s a s a . merce, y he, m ny pilgr m religion All along the shores of the ven erable stream l ay a fl s ss s a m e c a se gre t eet of ve el , l den with rich r h ndi . From th e looms of Benare s went forth the most deli ca s s a a s m te ilk th t adorned the h ll of St. Ja es a n d of sa s an d a aa s s ns B e n al Ver ille , in the b z r the mu li of g a n d the sabres of Oude were m ingled with the jewel s o f G a an d s a s Cas olcond the h wl of hmere . The special production s for which Ben ares i s n ow famous ar e embroidered cloth called ka m kh wab n an d a ass Th r (ki cob) work engr ved br ware . e forme i s pro duced in considerable quan titie s an d of a fin e a t th e a e s a th e very qu li y, ough it too oft n h pp n th t m ost sumptuous designs of gold an d silver thread ar e u e an d sa w orked pon very inf rior velvet tin . Very gr ea t manual skill i s exhibited i n the manufacture of e d fin e an d s e the xcee ingly gold ilv r wire employed, s r e r au t a n d th e de igns a e oft n v e y be iful . Native w or kmen lament the gr a dual a doption of European d re ss by enlighte ned Indian n oblemen an d decl are that 0 11 this account their tra de h as suffered very

a . a a s s s b e l rgely L rge qu ntitie , however, mu t till e a ea e s a a a an d p roduc d to decor te the b uti of the z n n , a s u se a s a es an d at l o for ceremoni l rob , every gre d urbar or levee in In dia glitters with th e r ic h

b rocaded silks an d satins of Ben ares. Ba bu Debi P a sa s Sh e s th e C a i s st r d, who e p overlook h uk the be s e a s s a k nown dealer in these good . B n re bras w re ll s i s a marketable commodity a over Europe . Mo t — — p eople ar e familiar too familiar perhap s with

i s et a a Th ater a. sp ec m en of it, y w lk through the ’ a aa a s th e a ss er s st t i s ca led l B z r, br work ree l , wil a th e s t for t e h e se e th e a e w ell rep y vi i or, h re will w r b ein g produced by th e sa m e pri m itive m eans a s 110 4

u e e t s a o . do bt wer mployed cen urie g The worker,

n a m s s ss- 0 11 an d ofte ere child, it cro legged the ground, , f t an d o s as as a s a s of a u sing ee t e well h nd , by me n an d a a a b tiny pu nch or chisel light h mmer, un ided y c n s o s s s a of th e tra i g or m del , work out on the urf ce m etal th e in tricate an d grotesque devices han ded down throu gh gen eration s of workmen . Wooden toys ar e also made in large quantities i n th e ‘ T ar e tu on a s r m city . hey rned very primitive l the f o a har d white wood an d covered with l ac varnish of th e m s r a o s c ar e a n on o t b illi nt c lour , whi h fortun tely quite a poisonou s in ch racter . But th e visitor will be chiefly interested in Benares h as fitl a as a r eligious centre . It been y c lled Th e sa e th e s can a cr d city of Hindu , for no other comp re with it in the amou nt of religious merit it can c on fer n th s i ts s a es m a o e devotee that enter gate . Ben r y well b e n s to s a H s co idered repre ent the very he rt of indui m . n th e a a s t a Alo g m ny ro d h t converge on the city, by th e e an d a a sh e a s s riv r, by the r ilw y, dr w to her elf all as s s a s from over the v t continent, continuou tre m of

an a s t . devout d ffectionate pilgrim . They come o her u e an d t an d a a s a s s i n brimf l of lov pie y, fter e on pent s an d s es an d sa s ea sh e her temple hrin by her cred tr m, s s e a a a an d en th u end th m forth g in, overflowing with ze l si asm a a th e a es e s th , to c rry her f me to f rth t bord r of e r i s all a a as n at land . The e not in Indi more f ci ing or impressive sight than i s presented on th e ghats that

th e e a . e e da day u sa s an line riv r b nk Th r , y by , tho nd d t sa ds d t H n s all th e t es a n hou n of evou i du , from rib d na s an e e i a m en a n d w tion of m y p opl d Ind , both omen, m ee a e th e sac e st eam an d n er th t to b th in r d r , , u d e d i r e e s ah m r ests to er o ction of hundr d of Br in p i , p f rm th e thousand an d on e ceremonies o f pur ifi cati o n a n d p r ayer which their elaborat e an d ex acting r i t u al pre s c r i b es n attem to d ct i n w or ds th i s w on d r . A y pt epi e ful

n e. s a far sh f h r u th Vi ew ed f sce m u t f ll or t o t e t . r om u 0

th e r i ver th e vast a1 1a c u r es u e tem s m n s , y of pi t q ple , o a ter i es an d sh r s i n a i n an d ine , rich c rv og fretwork, which l i n e the t0 p of the ban k stan ds ou t sha rply defined a a n s sk an d s a a h g i t the blue y , form b ckground to t e a s n n ea e an d d n a n im ted ce e be th th m . ! p ow the i m m ense stairways below passes an ever m oving multitude of s s a a a daz wor hipper , rr yed in brilli ntly coloured or

zli n l a s. s a s on g y white g rment Lower till, the eye f ll a den se m ass of figures crowdin g th e lowest steps of th e a s s m s a m m a n on th e s s m gh t , o e e ted edit tio tep the se es he s n s s ou t n lv , ot r lining the woode pier thru t i to th e a b u t all n a an d u n s w ter, , with inte t g ze m tteri g lip , i n as ss a n an d en gaged ce ele pr yer . Amo g around these a ai as a a a s i n sa d g n gre t multitude, bre t high the cre st a i a sta n a as n re m, w th fixed ec tic look e g ged in w hi g s k An d a way th e impuritie of sou l an d body ali e . from all goes up on e con tinu ou s murmu r of prayer an d ador a

. ti i s u n a an e a s an t on, l ke the o d of mo ing wind ov r di t s a d ar a k ar n d h fore t . Eye n e li e e filled a flooded wit an in describable an d overwhelming m ultitude of sen sa ti n s an d a i s ss i a s o , the he rt oppre ed w th the ugu t

ani n s hi n s awe- n s s m e g w ch lie behi d thi i piring ight . ’ This i s Ben ares ! Here i s laid bare the secret which for san s a s c ss u s m st thou d of ye r , through vi i it de the o te an d c a s m st a a s n rrible h nge the o r dic l, thi wo der f u l city h as held to itself an d which now i n these m or e ea ef ul t s h as n a n w a s ! e p c ime give it e le e of life Her , i f a e i s ou r t1 a ed s B 1 ah nywh re, p y the very pirit of

. m anism ! CHAPTE R I I .

A i s t i l k H o r c a S e t c h .

car red b th e ran d of th e li n di n h eat S y b b g , i n n th i f An d th e wrath di v e, a d e s ns o m an , ’ An d th alefu l tram of th e cou u eror s feet e b p q , It h u fi red ll si n ce th w r ld e an as s e a e o b g .

The path of history i s l ike the cou rse of a ri v e r, w h a an d a w - defin ed s er e hic , bro d cle r, with ell limit wh i t n a s a s n a a a d s e r the bode of men, whe tr ced b ckw r

W s an d a s an d a s i ts s i n ' ind n rrow , fin lly hide ource

m a a ss n a h . so e d rk forest or in cce ible mou t in defile . T is i s a a as s n a s emph tic lly the c e with the hi tory of Be re . The student h as n ot far pursued the ba ckward pa th befor e he finds him self baffled an d perplexed by th e s an m a a s an d a —too c ty— teri l for knowledge, very e rly early the course of the h istor y i s lost in the tangle d j u n gle of fable an d legend wherein ar e hidden th e ~ o n s all n n an rigi of thi gs I di . By markin g ofl the history into periods not too rigid ’ ly limited one m ay perhaps hope to compass the city s

- st Th e r s i s. a Pr e s c ory . fi t the legend ry or Buddhi ti period whose hither limit i s the rise of the religi on of Ga a a a s an d a ut m Buddh , ome five r r r a half centu ies before ou e . Doubt B . C . less for long before that ti me there h ad n a s n s as to a bee city of hri e here, for to it, centre of an d ea n a a a r light l di g, journeyed the gre t te cher fte ! h i s enlightenment to set in motion the wheel of th e ! x n law se - a s a a e celle t . The c lled record of th t f bled ti m e m an a es a Sa s a fill y p g of the l ter n crit liter ture, an d th e K ashi Khanda of the Skan da Pu t an a m ay b e con s th s n s a ide red as e store hou e of lege d of Ben res . B u t th e P a r an as ar e among th e latest of the shastra s or sa e o s an d a s r a a . On e cr d b ok , h ve no hi to ic l v lue su c e e m a r as a s i n h h l g nd y b e he e given pecimen, whic 7 th e origi n of the city i s attributed to the creative power a S a f s n . o Vi hnu, exerted in ho or of the gre t deity hiv The seven rishis approached Vishnu an d desired

o a a to sa a . s n to be sh wn the cert in ro d lv tion Vi h u , t s m a n a a a s a f er ome edit tio , cre ted ling which hone in ff n a at i ts was n a glorious e ulgence . The li g birth o ly span wide but it gradually diffused itself till it covered s a i ts a s an kos ten m i s . s p ce, r diu being p ch ( le ) Thi w K s at s was a n as a hi . The world thi time collectio s r an d a a s an d a s of u ging he ving w ter , the ling tood

n su a . s u moved on the rf ce of the deep Vi hnu, however ar rived at the conclusion that the place was too small for a s s an d n s n a the bode of the ri hi , co eque tly cre ted the earth an d placed it in juxtapo sition to an d su r ! rounding the linga . Legends of this character ar e 1 eadi ly accepted an d n an d on e implicitly believed in by the devout Hi du, m ay occasionally see in the temple courts crowds seated at s s an d s a a n n the feet of ome prie t, li tening in r pt tte tio , while tales of this sort ar e read to them in son or ou s a s S n crit . i n n s There s a histo ry hidde in the ame of the city . Kas K ssi as i s l n n i s s nam e hi, or , wel k ow , the religiou of a i s a a a s i n the city, lthough it dmitted th t Ben re , i ts a t a a as i s an a i . s ncien form of V r n i, older n me It n ow appar ently agreed that on e of the earliest of the u s a K as s h ad a a as Hind kingdom , th t of the i , V r n i for i a at as ts a a . a r u s time le t, for c pit l The n me of the ler clu ng to their principal city after they themselves h ad ass l an d a s h as p ed into ob ivion in l ter time it become , w an h on or i fic affi a s t ith x, the n me u ed by devou u s all a an d Késhi i d Hind over Indi , j whenever uttere a wakens feelings of religious fervour i n the minds of s true believer . It i s probable that Benares i s on the site of a con si der able city fou nded or discove r ed by the Ar yan i n a s s a t t th e Pu n a an d s u a d v der oon f er they lef j b, , it te

9

! ’ h r b e s M s. S s r I n P r a en t rot r to teele he o, the e m n

B u t the priest predom inated over the seer as th e e s s a na s s an d s am e t mple over h dowed the mo terie , thu c a bout tha t great change in religious practice which in di rectly gives u s our fir st h i stor 1cal glimpse of

B enar s. i s a Ga a a a e th e e There no doubt th t ut m , c ll d B u a sa Sa a a a t ddh , the ge of the ky tribe, he ded revol ‘ a a n s u a g i t too m ch ceremony . A prince of the w rrior as e n a s ar s at c t , bor hundred mile north of Be n e K a i lav asth u an d at p , enlightened Ga a a u s s h e y , h ndred mile to the outh, cam e to Benares about th e m iddle f h s x i o C. a t e i th century B . bout the t me the Jews n sa a T s e a s retur ed to Jeru lem from c ptivity . hu B n re was i n all probability not only the place where u s was a a a m ani s a so Hind i m el bor ted into Br h m, but l h s t e t a a . bir h pl ce of th t other world religion, Buddhi m The mild an d gentle teacher took u p h i s abode at th e I si attan a a a as i n a a th e p Vih r, mon tery deer p rk to n s a s Sa a orth of the pre ent city, now known rn th, where masse s of broken brick an d one solitary tower n m ark the place of former greatn ess a d power . For a long time a spirit of toleran ce seems to have m arked both the old an d the n ew sect for we kn ow a s s i f r th t both exi ted ide by s de c many centuries. The in flu ence too of the great Buddhist monarch s a at Pa a u n s A ok , who ruled tn not two h dred mile a a a u 250 C s a n t w y, bo t B . . , mu t h ve bee powerfully fel l s an s u a st here . Buddhist pi grim from the l d f rther E to which the new faith h ad been carried found their s wa s a an d toil ome y to the hrine of their f ith, two of Th e C n s them have helped to lift the veil on the past . hi e e d s Fa a at 5th an d evotee , Hi n the beginning of the century B en n Th san i n 7 th am a m a s s i e g the , c e to obt in nu cript of s u s an d a n a a o s tr a their cript re , fr gme t ry cc unt of their v r u n i n n ss s u d els a e fo d the Chi ese cla ic . They fo n 10

B en ares a great city with a wealthy an d p eaceq a s an d s a s s p opul tion, full of temple t tue of the god ,

- da am s an d crowded with devotees as to y . F ilie of v ery great wealth whose houses ar e stored with rare

an d s s ar e s . Th e ar e preciou thing , to be een people gentle an d polished an d esteem most highly men given ! ! to s u s a S m off t dy . Of the devotee we re d, o e cut

th e a s s a n o ~ h ir ; other re erve tuft upon the crow , g n a an d ar s an n i n ked e de titute of y ki d of cloth g . a as s s wa Some besme r their bodies with he . Thi s t a s a o an d i s a u e hirteen hundred ye r g , yet tr e pictur

a s - da Hi ou en Th san s i st of Ben re to y . g, piou Buddh t was s on sa a e hough he , goe to y th t though ther ar e thirty (Buddhist) mon asteries containing about t u san s ar e a d hree tho d devotee , yet, there hundre temples of the Hindu gods an d about ten thousan d ! h h i n s s s as . eretic , t e e l t being ev de tly Hindu Bud dh i sm was then fast declining but i ts splen dour w as

still gr eat . all a n n s s a s Out of the m g ifice t temple , porche , ch pel , m as s s a n d s a u s a th e on terie , tower t t e th t then met ’ s s an d a an d a of p ilgrim eye , m rked the power we lth B uddhism what n ow remains ! As one stands on th e s a s s a th e mound of h ttered brick , under the h dow of ’ r Sér n sth n s i a s uined tower of , Wre proud ep t ph come to mind but w1th how sad a meanin g !

Si m on u m en tu m u aer i s Ci r cu m S i ce. q , p Examin e the carved face of that massive tower ! Go to a at a a a K s the b mboo grove B k riy und where, de e c a a s s a s a s m a r ted by lien tomb , t nd perfect peci en of B uddhist temple ! Observe the defaced columns an d r ichly carved architraves of the old Buddhist portico n ow known as the mosque of the Ganj Shahid ! Search th e byways an d alleys of the Mu ssu lman quarter to th e north of the city for carved stones an d forgotten s s an d s ou fin d all a i s of hrine , in the e y will th t left th e m a n a u san d ighty f ith which o ce, for over tho 11

a s a an d a to su u a an m y e r , riv lled thre tened bd e Br hm is ! ! i n a s. se sa N ot all ! an d Ben re Wi r men will y, will poin t to certain modifications of Hindu belief an d practice su ch as the absence of animal sacrifice an d th e s of ' f a e n s n s exi tence begging r t r itie of mo k , an d will see i n these an d other thin gs traces of that a a a as r gre t spiritu l revolt . But yet from Indi , f om na s s as a a was a s a Be re , Buddhi m f ith b ni hed by n an d u a a a r determi ed tri mph nt Br hm nic evival . The suppression of Buddhism was followed by a period i n which the great body of Buddhist believers were a an an d n dmitted to the cient fold, the people were o ce ar more bound together in one faith . There e few traces of thi s period in Benares itself though

Th ' e Brah m an i c Re the florid desigu s of certain ancien t v 1val 0 0 - 1 A D . 1 000 ‘ ' s in an as s n temple , now m y c e tur ed

n s s a a . i to mo que , d te from th t period The legend of s K Dev adasa s Ga s a the expul ion of ing by the wile of ne h , a n d n S a m a an a fi a the retur of hiv , y be echo of th t n l a s an s i a s a victory . The very b ence of y hi tory ind c te period of qu iet in which the city settled down to the s a s an d r e old, or only lightly ltered, order of thing s a u med an d exten ded i ts sw y . The M u hammadan in vasions very soon began to affect a s u i t w as f ar s an ass s Ben re , for tho gh di t t from the p e i n the frontier through which the ‘adan Per i od u s wa n ab pl ndering horde forced their y , tales of i ts wealth an d sanctity aroused alike the cupidity an d the fanaticism of the invaders. i s a a 1018 a G a It rel ted th t in M hmud of h zni, on the

n n s n r ated as far as a s . i th of h i s expedition e et Ben re , d a an d R u t n Ra a a a an d efe ted slew the jp pri ce, j B n r, i a at R a Gh ét after razing to th e ground h s c stle j , u n an d u s an d a a pl dered b rnt the temple , dep rted, le ving t n a cen h e city a shattered an d smoking rui . Ne rly two tu r i es of comparative peace served to restore the glories of s an d n a a i n 1194 a e M u h am ~ the acred city, the g in c m 12

m ad G h i s e c ss er of hor, like pr de e or, to kill, to plund

. n d s M u ss m an s a s xu a e a de troy . ul hi tori n e ltingly rel t that at this time a thousan d idolatrou s temples were r azed to the gr ou n d an d fou r teen hu n dred cam els scarce

ly su fficed to carry away the Spoil . In the centuries that im m ediately followed this th e h i s a s r s Th e Hindu learn t how to live with m te . sheep m u st live an d for i ts li fe wou ld n ot unwilli n gly ’ s a r a an d so s u ar p e little wool, , while their lord q r elled an d u an d a as s se an d fe l fo ght, riv l dyn tie ro l , t s s s an d h at they def ly erved the tronger ide , with t quiet ten acity of pu rpose so character istic of the Or i

f en tal s m a n i r a u s m wa . , they till oved lo g the cc to ed y as as The E t bowed low before the bl t, I n silent deep disdain ; a n s n as It he rd the legio thu der p t, T n i n a n he plunged thought gai . n r M u r s i ts u n s ar d U de the og l Empero fort e v ie .

ar e- a ar s a s m es L g he rted Akb , who lived in the p ciou ti ! o f a a a n an d s an d gre t Eliz beth, p tro ized protected wi e u m en all t h i s n n d su ss r s. B u so a devo t of creed cce o , eh én i r h i s n ss was ui on e J g , by own co fe ion g lty of crownin g a ct of van dalism in the destru ction of th e o l d i sv sw r m V e a tem ple in the centre of the city . Fro the materials an d on the site of that splen did shr in e a s e a a r e he erected the princip l mo qu , le ving, with fin em en t s s a a s th e of cruelty, ome h ttered fr gment of t a i s old temple built in o the b ck of the m osque . True it a a sa Re a M an S n a however th t bout the me time, j i gh, R ajput chief i n the service of the Em peror as Govern or a h ad n n a o add of Beng l, i fluence e ough to be ll wed to on e edifice to the beautie s of the city which remain s to s da M an M an n n as Oh thi y , the dir, better k ow the ser v ator y . a a an s n c an i r h as an n s n con D r , gr d o of J h g , i tere ti g n ecti on was G n n al with the city . He over or of Be g u n e h i s a h n n d s s a for d r f ther Shah Je a a eem to h ve, 13‘

a e es i n n a s a m a ~ tim , r ided Be re where oh lla, D5r éna

ar i s n am a t . He s m s a g , ed f er him ee to h ve been a m an a s u di u s an d r an m er am n of t o tole t te p e t, an d i t i s r elated that u n de r h i s direction a tran slation of th e n s a s was m a n P s a ! pa i h d de i to er i n . This version was a fterwar ds tran slated in to Latin by on e of the early s i M ssi n a s an d s m a res Je u t i o rie , in thi for r ted th e at t n of G a s S a b e tion the erm n philo opher chopenh uer, y whom it was brou ght to the n oti ce of Eu ropean scho l a1 s so that we m ay say that from Ben ares the stream as n l a n i n s i ts wa E of E ter e r g fir t found y to urope . an a an as th Under the f tic Aur gzeb, the l t of e Great M u s n a s was a su ff og l , Be re once more c lled to er, for du ring h i s reign man y of the principal tem ples were destroyed an d from the ruins of the chief of them was a a M s s a s t built th t gre t o que, who e lofty min ret form h e i on a m ost str king object the river b nk . The crowning in sult however was inflicted when the Emperor decreed a a a M u a a a a a new n me for the city, c lling it h mm d b d, t s s wa es e itle, however, which the low trong v of tim a h ave washed aw y . r r a r h i s t s a Afte Au ngzeb, indeed, du ing ime, pr ng u p that revival of Hindu patr iotism of which the Mara th as headed by their chief Sivaji Th e M ar éth aS a s. S a s were the le der lowly, the old 1700—1800 u ss 1m an w i th e a i M u po e receded, p tr o ti c wave a dvanced an d b r ought wealth an d honour to a M r a n the old home of the f ith . Under the a ath i fluence a s an d t e c e es s Ben re revived, h hi f of the pr ent temple n d sa s a e s er a a a other cred building d t from thi p iod . M r th a p r ince s an d princ esses vied with each other in i h l a h i T pouring their gifts nto t e p of t e deified c ty . o t s r i s th e A a P a te e hi pe iod due nn urn mpl , the colon n a at G én a th e G e B h ai r on ath de the y B pi, old n temple, a n d Tr i l och an l es u s G a an d Ah l v a B ai temp , M n hi h t

Ghat . It was at the en d of the 18th century that Bena re s was ceded to the . East In dia Com

u nder ! Ru le ‘ a sa - u d- au a al go! p ny by A f d l , the nomin an d o s Emperor of Delhi, fr m thi ti me a s a an a a s e Ben re bec me integr l p rt of the Briti h Empir . At m ssi Ra a Ch ei t S a the ti e of the ce on, j ingh, assa was r n a s Hindu v l of the Emperor, uler of Be re , a n d he very soon came into conflict with the domi so a n as s nant power in the per n of W rre H ting . In 17 80 as a dependent of the East India Compa ny a n d n i ts i an d a n a Ra a enjoyi g protect on p tro ge, the j h ad been called upon to su ppo1 t h i s m asters i n thei1 l an s s a s s trugg e with Fr ce in the outh . To the e dem nd Ch ei t S h ad s a an d i n ingh re ponded but t rdily when, 17 8 1 a s a a n t 1 000 r se , fre h dem nd for conti gen of , ho was a Ra a s a an d was m m de, the j refu ed point bl nk pro 50 a s 00 0 l s R 5 00 . l t . e p y fined l c of upee or , To comp an d a h s s a Has obedience re lize t i enormou fine, W rren s i n ai s as 17 8 1 a u n a s ting , the r ny e on of , c me p to Be re ’ an d encamped i n M adho Das s garden close to th e ’ s P a s s a Ra a C o Sm pre ent rince of W le Ho pit l . j h it gh w as at a m h i s r at S a a G a an d th t ti e in fo t hiv l h t , at a a ac as n s se terrified the ne r ppro h of H ti g , wrote a s i ss l e s an d n on th e 16th o f ver l ubm ive tter , whe August two companies of sepoy s commanded by three sh a s s a s h i m young Engli lieuten nt were ent to rre t , s Th he willingly ubmitted . e fort was occupied an d th e Raja confined m a sui te of rooms overlooking th e i e s a s sw a s a th e r v r, who e w ter , ollen by the r in , l pped s s n h i s a a was su b wall ju t u der window . If the R j ss h i s o s an d e s th e t mi ive foll wer were not, v ry oon for wa n ed a u a m ob s surrou d by turb lent an d thre tening . Presently it became known that by a curious an d a s

a a a s s e e u n m . it proved, f t l blunder, the epoy w r pr jded a n an d s a ss a s c u with mmu ition, on thi , the ail nts, u c raged by f1 esh relays of turbulent spirits from R am Nagar burst into the buildin g an d overpowered a n d 15

fin ally m a ssacred th e whole con tingen t of two h u n dred r offi s i a n d fiv e sepoys with thei cer . Ch e t Singh was u on e n s n a a an let down thro gh of the wi dow i to bo t d, followed by the greater portion of h i s exu ltin g r es f r s r o se Ram N a ar . c u e , c s d to g Th e s u a n a r n Has n s at s m a e it tio of W r e ti g thi ti e, lon u u n i h a a du c s r i n a t rb le t c ty, wit gre tly re ed e co t an d i n a practically u n for ti fied garden was critical i n th e an d h e can n o u t h a was n e xtreme, t re be do b t t he o ly saved by the fatu ous in action of Choit Singh an d h i s s sis m a n on follower , who per ted in re i ing the other

s e th e e at Ram a a . as r id of riv r N g r At l t, howeve , they showed sign s of a determin ation to m ake an attack h a en an d as n s on a o n t e g rd , H ti g decided retr eat s r a was m a at to Chu n ar Fort . Thi etre t de night an d ’ was i n as n s own s a an d e ed , H ti g word , ret rded imp d b n u m u s a s alan s y a incredible t lt of erv nt , p quin and s a b aggage of every de cription, which for time th r ea ! t a a st n ou r a . a ened tot l de ructio of m rch Chun r, how was a sa e an d a on e ver, re ched in f ty lthough the de p ar tu re of the English the whole district blazed u p ' i n s re n a r n as s was a a a in ur ctio , W r e H ting b ck g in i 11 less th an a mon th an d with an ir on han d soon restored C S Gwa a n h i o . o s rder h it ingh fled to lior, le vi g esta tes forfeit in the hands of the English who bestowed t h i s n M ah i a a a m hem on ephew p N r y n, fro whom th e a a i s s n presen t Mah m de ce ded . The memorial s of this event ar e to be sought for At a i n th r ee spots. the b ck of the Shivala Fort ar e th e ra s an s a u g ve of the three lieuten t , c ref lly railed i n i s a n d p r ese1 ved . The follow ng in cription i s inscr ib ed

. l o u a stone et into one of the tombs . This tablet h a s been erected by the Gover n m en t P s r ast ar h i . t l r est n a N . . f . W to pre e ve the l e y g pl ce o S t l st atta on S o s . e Jcr . S eu . s Li t Arch cot , B li p y , y me ,

2n d a a n S s . S a Resd . d G uar d B tt lio epoy , J t lker, Bo y , wh o An st 17 th 17 8 1 n a s s o were killed g , , e r thi p t, d oing their d u ty .

17

s u Ti oo S an was a r h i s s for o th, pp ult g the ing force t hat last struggle which ended i n h i s overthr ow an d

t a a am i n M a . c a n d eath a Sering p t y The Fren h, m dde ed b y their crushin g defeat by Nelson at the battle of all i n a an d th e Nile, were doing their power to h rry

n a s i n a . n a ar w eake their riv l Indi In the orth, l ge Afghan arm y under ! aman Khan at Lahore was a threateni ng a de scent on the pl ins. It w as at this critical moment that the in su rrection o f VVazi r Al i th e e s N awab u r r , d po ed of O de, occu ed ar s a i r Ali h ad 17 91 a n d a t Ben e . W z in been ppoi te to succeed h i s reputed father as Nawab of Oude b u t h ad within a year been deposed on the groun d of a r ofli ac an d a di safiecti on an d illegitim cy, p g y gener l s a s s h i s r e ent to Ben re , on the border of kingdom, whe i n s m n a a n s n he lived ulky retire e t on l rge pe io . Ever since h i s deposition he h ad nur sed the idea of H e w as n a s a n revenge . only ni eteen ye r of ge a d o f s a a e r an d a H the m o t rrog nt t mpe vicious h bits . e n a a a a a e n u e ever moved bro d without l rge rm d reti , a n d disdained i n ter cou r se t wi th all Europeans except

M r . C s R s at a . m herry, the Briti h e ident th t time Fro ’ h i s residence i n Madho Das s gar den h e kept up a c s n a a at a e orre po dence with the Afgh n rmy L hor , a n d h ad a whole circle of confederates at work e con cer ti n an d s s a g rebellion in the city di trict . In ever l o f a s s a s c the l rge hou e in the city rm were colle ted, a n d at Pi n dr ah K ot a ss s s e , fortre fifteen mile out id a s a was a a a at a u Ben re , force g thered to tt ck, the f vo r a s s a n a ble moment, the Briti h troop enc mped e r by . Th e was at a m s s a e city th t ti e in the mo t turbulent t t . It was infested by a species of swaggering bully ca a as so am m a d lled B nk , n ed fro the peculi r curve a e a r d i n u se t e d gger th y c r ie , the of which hey wer u es a a very expert. These rog lived on bl ckm il which x e m acea e c i en s an d they e tort d fro the more pe bl it z , wer e ready to j oin Wazi r Ali or an yon e el se who 18

d ou t to m m s n r cou ld hol the pro i e of plu de . Ear ly i n an u a n all r a s er a an d J ry, whe thei pl n w e l id the con s pi r ator s were only waiting for the signal fr om th e an a o a an com m der of the L h re Army, there c me or der

- f om G e G n a M r . C a r the ov rnor e er l , through herry, th t i Al i s m a o a u Waz r hould be im edi tely rem ved to C lc tta . Natu r ally the Wazi r was deeply chagrined an d di scom fit d an d n a a r s at c e , determi ed on ttempting i ing on e, f s ss 14 h opin g or revenge if not for ucce . On the th of an u ar 17 99 set h i s s a a to J y, , he out with u u l l rge retinue v s M r . C n o n w i it herry, who the ccupied the building e ’ s a a a i wa u sed as the Collector k ch h r . On the y he m et s M a s a an d h i s u M r . a on an D vi , the gi tr te wife, mo nted ’ u om r r a i r elephan t r et rning fr thei mo ning ride . W z Al i s u s ss was n ot s at t a n an d so b i n e with them ju t h t mome t , a su a sa a s a ass fter the u l lut tion , they were llowed to p , ’ M r a s s a h ad b u t n ot before . D vi h rp eye detected Som ethin g u nusual in the nu mber an d array of the ’ nu On h i s a a at . C r s s a i Al i r eti e . rriv l Mr her y hou e W z r was received in a friendly manner an d offered a cu p of t a w . as M r . C u e e , hich he declined Then, herry contin d i s r ni a an an an h m o ng me l, he beg in gry tone to com n f r n r an d at a s s plai c the ece t orde l t, uddenly jumping u s M r . C e an d a a p , he eized h rry de lt him blow with h i s a s was ar a s s a a n d gger . Thi reg ded the ign l for ctio by h i s followers an d the unfortun ate m an was i m m edi a all s s ately att cked from ide . He managed however a a a h i s assa a s w as to bre k w y from il nt , but followed a a s r u s h i m an d killed few y rd f om the ho e . With fell a s h i s s a an d Ca a C a M r . Ev n , ecret ry, pt in onw y, who r ode u n su spectingly up to the h ouse while the di stu r s o n a i i b an ce wa pr ceedi g . The W z r then collected h s s an d off an desar K r s follower moved to N othi, the e i s d a . w an d dence of M r . D vi On the ay they met kille

h i s a a u . wh o a s . in p l nq in Mr Hill, kept hop in the city

I a M r . a i s a a at r a n n the me ntime D v , l rmed the th e teni g ’ ' a spect of Wazi r Ali s retinu e h ad i m m edi ately on h i s 19

a s a a a M r . C r a rr iv l home de p tched note of w rning to her y, a w hich however arrived too l te . Being on the alert ’ h e saw the first of Wazi r Ali s followers approach h i s i s s a s was a h ou se an d fire on h erv nt . There not mo m t s an d a to an a en to be lo t , un ble get y other we pon, h e sn atched a spear from an attendan t at the door

a n d M r s. a s as a directed D vi to cend to the roof, t king n with her the o e child who remained below . The s ai as as was a o an d n an d t rc e they cended n rr w windi g, covered i n at the tap with a trap door of bamboo an d

m a n s M r . a s t tti g . Over thi D vi mounted guard o ss a a n s s an s a defend it, if po ible, g i t thi b d of de per te m n Th e s a h ad was a a a e . pe r he no me n we pon . The sh ft w as of a s r s to a iron, pl ted with ilve in ring give firm as a m a si x an d r s gr p, r ther ore th n feet in length fu ni hed with a long triangular blade of more than twenty i n s w s a s. s m an a che , ith h rp edge The fir t who, ttempt ed to make h i s way up the staircase was greeted with a s a s a an d as a h rp lunge of the pe r, h tily retre ted with

a a ar m . s a a b dly wounded The econd, more w ry, void e d the spear an d gr asping the blade with both h i s ’ h s s a . a s a s nd tried to wre t it out of Mr D vi h nd , but h e s a of an , dropping the h ft on the edge the door d ’ u s as a i t h i s assa a s a s ing it lever, tore out of il nt h nd w hich we r e severely cut by the sharp edges of the b a s a l de . After thi no further ttempt was made to f s a r a s r r orce the t i , though m ny bullet we e fi ed up the staircase an d horsemen rode r ound the h ouse on every si r a s at a s o de t ying to get hot the occup nt of the ro f .

‘ Th u s for a two s a er e as at ne rly hour , like noth L onid h i s ae s a m an at b a a Thermopyl , did thi br ve keep y m o s a s a o s urder u b nd of two hundred de per d e . In the meantime the other Europeans h ad sou ght C s h ad a s an d . s helter, one of them, Mr leve , , on wift s an d a s e hor e by circuitou route ridden to wher , ten ’ m s a a G a s s was ca ile w y, ener l Er kine force en mped . There he met with a troop of cavalry j u st returned 20 from exercise an d to their officer he commun i cated h i s w s co a was at n a n d n e . The word of mm nd once give n d s t fi the fo rce wheeled roun d a e o for Benares at a. a s was ar d g llop . When the thunder of their hoof he , Wazir Ali sullenly drew off h i s men an d retired to h i s ’ a retreat in M adho Das s g rden . Before night fell th e garden h ad been attacked an d Wazi r Al i force d to n a s a s Azi m ar h flee by u frequented w y northw rd to g . For nearly a year he maintained himself in the wi l d u at a a as w as co ntry the foot of the Him l y , but he eventu ally captured an d the first anniversary of h i s unsu ccessful rebellion saw him carried as a prison er throu gh Benares to Calcutta . s a as M r The lower portion of the t irc e defended by . a s m a s s an desar K an d i n D vi y till be een in the N othi, the old cem etr y at Chauka Ghat i s a colossal monu d h i s i n s. s ment to Mr . Cherry a friend It in the form a s a s set an s a o m of qu re pointed obeli k, on immen e pl tf r of stone ornamented at th e four corners by large fu n s h as s i i eral urn . It the following in cr ption wh ch i s of recent date ! This obelisk was erected in memory of

G E . c C s G . G . s eorge Frederi k herryJ q , , Agent . Ca am a pt Conw y .

R G a a E s . obert r h m, q E R a a s s . ich rd Ev n , q a Ali a u a 14 Who were murdered by W zir , J n ry th, 17 99 Benares maintained i ts reputation for being on e of the most tu rbulent cities i n In dia durin g the years ’ a s VVi zi r s a at b u t th t ucceeded Ali ttempt rebellion, it was firmly an d wisely governed an d nothing of m omen t — - — o ccu r red till 1857 that ill fated year the year of th e a w s Sepoy r evolt . Ben res a the most easterly of the a s s s s n s a an d w a s gre t citie where eriou ri i g took pl ce, it du e enti rely to the promptness an d indomi table courage of the few Englishm en stationed here th at th e city 21 w as spared a scene of massacre such as took place i n l th th i s a e . Su a 0 M a e c ti e f rth r north On nd y, the of y , at r u an d s ea s m utiny broke out Mee t, oon the gr t citie

of - s Ca ar o the North We t, Delhi, wnpore, Lucknow, B il l an d a a a w a a a o l y , All h b d were r pped in bl ze f rebe lion . si x a s n s a a s a In five or d y the ew re ched Ben re . At th t ti me the military force stationed here consisted of three r egimen ts of Native troops an d a company of European i a a Art llery . The whole of the Europe n force mounted to ss an 200 h ad a e le th men, who to w tch over mor a s of saff s s th n ten time their number di ected epoy . All M a a n as ess w as an d at en d through y gre t u e in felt, the o f th e mon th incendiary fire s in the native lines b e r came f equent . On the 4th of June came news of th e mut i n y of a a R at Azi m ar h s s N tive egiment g , ixty mile to the north, an d it wa s rumoured that the mutineers were march i n t s r t g down to join their compatriots a Benare . Fu her delay w as seen to be dangerous an d it wa s decided ea da sa th e m en rly in the y to di rm next morning, but C h ad u s a r e Ca ta on olonel Neill , who j t r iv d from lcut h i s w t Hi s a se e s a a . y to the front, coun ll d in t nt c ion advice was eventually taken an d early in the after n of s a 4th n s e oon Thur d y, the of Ju e, the troop wer a e a a Th a s c ll d out on p r de . e little comp ny of Engli h en t th e at e ar er e r s e m wi h b t ry of till y in th i mid t, und r th e a r a e P s s a comm nd of B ig di r on onby, tood w iting to see a e e ts a I t se e at fi s wh t turn v n would t ke . em d r t a s if the m en would obey th e order to pile thei r arms a t em so th e s f e s for m ny of h did , Engli h o fic r going a s e an d r eason w B u t s de mong t th m ing ith them . ud n l a a seem ed to s e th Th a m s t at h ad y p nic eiz em . e r h b een laid down were snatched u p a n d they commen c ed to on t e r f h at fire h i o ficers. T e guns were once wheel an d e e fir e th e e e s an d a s ed round op n d on r b l , in hort t m e fl e e a w i e they wer in full ight . They w re n ver llo e d to r e- form an d b efor e ni ght the Europ ean settle 22

f s ment was i n the hands o the Engli h . The Eur opean residents were accom modated i n th e M a la d n ew i M ah a int, rge buil ing belong ng to the a a a s s a a s an d n s i n r j of Ben re , where for ever l d v ight s r o a an d n s an t the mo t t ying m nth of the ye r, in co t fear of attack they remained huddled together i n th e os s a at an wa utm t di comfort, while the city ne r h d s an d s s n or n bubbling eething with in urrectio . No ga i z a a was a s s an d h ed tt ck however m de by the epoy , thoug on many occasions there was great danger an d more a n s as n s an i c e th n o ce e o of p were experienced, ther was a a ss an d n i n no ctu l lo of life or property, whe S was a an d c n d. eptember, Delhi c ptured Lu k ow relieve an d a was s the clouds began to lift pe ce re tored . The memo rials of the mutiny i n Benares ar e confined to the graves of the men wh o fell on the para de gr ou n d o n 4th n m a a the of Ju e . They y be found ne r the pre s a a s c s th e R a a s a n two ent b rr ck lo e to ilw y t tio , Only a an a a ac h ve y m rk tt hed, one being the grave of Lieut . Y orke Hayter of the 25th Bengal Native Infantry an d the other of Captain Henry John Gu ise of the 13th a Ca a e at a h i s n Irregul r v lry, who f ll the he d of men whe

ar th s i s an es i a . an d on e ch ging e rebel . It inter t ng f ct t a s s an e wor hy of being remembered , th t no ingle in t c of un faithfulne ss o r treachery i s reported to have oc curred among the domestic servant s of European r e si den ts a s n s s s in Ben re duri g the e troublou time . 23

CHAPTER III.

P r e se nt - d ay B e n a res .

Forth fared they by the common way afoot Seein g the glad an d sad things of the town ; a e s s a h u m The p int d treet live with of noon,

a s ss- m i d s an d a The tr der cro legged, their pice gr in, s r The buyer with thei money in their cloth, war s to ea t s a The of word ch pen hi or th t, s ear th e i oad s w s The hout to cl , the huge tone heel , s s o an d s a s The trong l w oxen their ru tling ro d , s b ea1 er s w t t 1 a a s The inoging i h hei p l nquin , b r oad - n eek ed l1an 1al s sweati i n su n The ng the , The house wives bearin g watel from the well a a ce a t es an d atl1wa1 t s With b l n d ch t i , their hip

l a - ab es th e s a s a s The b ck eyed b ; fly w rmed weetme t hop, a at h i s l th e o The we ver oom, c tton bow

a th e - st es 1 11 a th e s Tw nging, mill on g i ding me l, dog ’ ! l r owli n g for orts H ere a thron g

h i a e - G a thered to watch som e c atte1 n g sn k tamer Wind 1 0 u 11d h i s W i i s t th e livin g jewellery as an d 115 0 1 ch an th e a h Of p g, n hooded de t an a e to (11 0 110 ea To gry d nc of b ded gourd , a of r u s an d s n t There long line d m horn , which we With steeds gay pai n ted an d silk canopi es To brin g th e young b r ide h ome ; an d here a wife Stealing with cakes an d garlands to th e god ’ To pray her husband s safe return from trade b e a b o n h au th e s Or g y ext birt , h l by booth Where the swart p ottcr s beat the noi sy bra ss For lamps an d lotas ; thence by temple walls An d at a s th e r i v er g ew y , to

i h o s a Th e L g t f A i .

25

n a o s s e u a s ff l rr w treet , wher the niniti ted u er from fou l sights an d fouler sme ls. Thou gh Benares was the home an d school of th e later Vedic worship it so far exemplifies the progress of religion in India as to be now the shrine of the P s i ts s s an d uranic deitie . Among philo opher thinkers of the modern school there m ay be those who desire a a t i n i ts s an d to return to the primev l f i h, but . temple throughout the whole p u b li c worship of the city th e a a a th e s s l ter deities hold sw y . E ch of per on of the P a s s a n d s a ur nic Trinity receive divine honour , ingul rly t s a enough, the ci y typifie the Indi n people in the

degree of honour rende red to each of these Gods. S a s s a n a a a hiv hold the fir t pl ce, under the me of M h d a s i s as K r s a R a a ev , followed clo ely by V hnu i hn or m , i a i a e wh le Br hma s h rdly recogniz d . The whole city i s regarded as th e special an d p ecu a a Sh a w s s a e li r dom in of iv , ho e en ign, gilt trid nt or a e a i s flas es th e a s a p rfor ted d c , h from pinn cle of t sa e es an d h i s em e i n a an d hou nd t mpl , bl m, the l g , s a ss n u er th e h a a s vehicle, the bull , urp in mb in bit nt em se s of n a e s ad th lve . In honour him, k d devotee , orn e d b h ta es e ea a s a n d eas y orizon l lin on for h d, rm br t

a as es cow - n th e m de from the grey h of du g, crowd river bank a n d infest th e narrow street s an d ar e regarded by the com mon people alm ost a s r e- incarna t s n t as su h Th e ion of the great God a d vene r a ed c . a s r a te S a B h ai r on ath es des i n on e of M gi t of hiv , r i th e i s th e e s th e t an d h i s a r che t of t mple in ci y , m gic staff i s supposed to peramb u late th e city to pu n ish o ff en s i t s c e at th e bidding of s ma ter . sh u n h o ds a n ea u a b u t et a s di n a e i l rly eq l , y ubor t p lace to Shiva in th e h tfecti o n s o f th e i n h a bitants o f n a s Hi s s r s r e d sti n sh e tw o Be re . wor hippe a i gui d by er en a r n s th e f eh ea d a n d a r s o f h i s p p dicul li e on or , m k f t s s s th t Th oo print ar e fo u n d in ever al part of e ci y . e c th e sh n tem es i s th e (i o al M a n d hief of Vi u pl p ir, 26 w hich i s so jealou sly guarded that I have been un able to discover that an y Eu r opean h as ever been allowed t o s s n u i s enter i ts sacred precinct . Vi h the more s a a an d as su fi s homely, oci ble deity of the tri d, ch nd a warmer place in the affections of Hin dus than th e a s an d s s S a s n i s to u tere my teriou hiv , who e provi ce it

. control human destiny in birth an d death . a a s n u a i s Br hm , the fir t member of the Hi d tri d, s a c s an d a s ar e tr ngely negle ted in wor hip, im ge of him very scarce an d when he i s mention ed i n legend an d story he 1s u sually represented as the minister an d s a S va erv nt of hi . In addition to those three deities a vast mu ltitude of i others hold the superstitious Hin du n awe . They a r e frequ en tly ministers of th e great on es as Hanu m an a a a dr n as Ga s , Bh iro, N r d or their chil e ne h, K a a Sa as a a a s rtikey , r w ti ; or their fem le counterp rt a s Pér b ati a K ai S ar e na u a , Durg , l , its ; or they t r l e s as Su n S a M n S a P a s obj ct the , ur j the oo , om the l net Nav a r ah a Ga s Ga a a s an d s g the nge , ng while pl nt tree , s an d an s an d a a s su as well t k , nim l ch the crocodile, m on an d ar e all s s . key, dog cow object of wor hip But idolatry doe s not con fine itself even within these e i ar s as s n a s wid lim ts. There e e on whe lmo t every n a a i s s a s s tur l object wor hiped, when the f rmer wor hip h i s a h i s a h i s plough, the t ilor needle, the c rpenter a an d s an d h i s h i s dze chi el, the clerk en, indeed with strong pantheistic ideas the Hin du sees God in all s an d an a n m a a a thing , y ccide t y tempor rily or perm nently a a s loc te Him in per on or object . But it i s when divi ne hon ours ar e paid to errin g a n s a a r a s i ts s hum n bei g th t idol t y re che lowe t point, an d in su bmitting to Brahmin wor ship the Hindu h as r ivetted on h i s ow n n eck an iron yoke which h as either rendered impossible or else terribl y hin dered all p r o ss an d a s s gre , which only fter the most pain fu l truggle ’ c an n ofi en a 1 m i n s a ad se. be throw . B res s the Brah p r i 27

Th ey constitute n early on e - eighth of the city p op u l a

. a s an d s s tion They line the river b nk infe t the temple , si t s s a where they like pider w tching for their prey . T i ssa s ar e a a a a a heir em rie bro d, tr velling by r ilw y to distan t cities to promote pilgrimages an d hover abou t

‘ n an s a s u n a the e tr ce to the city, to m ke ure of the w ry ’ son an d s devotee . From father to to on s son th e u c a a i s a e an d a on l r tive c lling h nd d on, every umbrell Ga s s a s a a a a con the nge h de v lu ble heredit ry property, cerning the succession to which there m ay be much

a - an d ss a l aw s e an he rt burning, po ibly uit befor English

i s ss - s i a judge . It impo ible to over e t m te the effect of s s s s s thi evil y tem on the wor hipper . Formal religion a s a s an d a s si s m a me n form l ethic , when the gr ve t n y n a th e a s be condo ed by gift to Br hmin , by the per for m an ce of a pilgrimage or at most by the erection a a a s s fam of temple, wh t wonder th t Hindu hould be ou s for the almost utter absence among them of an y a a s s i n dequ te en e of s . But even Benares cannot stand still in this age of

ss. Ra wa th e P os an d a h progre The il y, t, the Telegr p ’ have h ad their effect in widening the area of men s an d O o s an d a ass i s knowledge pp rtunitie , cl of men steadily growing who regard with contempt an d a a a o of ass of growing imp tience, the ignor nt f lly the m a an d ar e s n for s a of their n tion, who eeki g ome pl n d a eliver nce . English education h as opened th e eyes of man y to th e gr oss ignoranc e of thei r spiritual su s an d a s a n n s an perior , the tr n l tio i to Engli h of the Indi classics h as done more to destroy the old u nreasoning reverence for the Sanscrit books than almost anything all a e lse . The study of Sanscrit i s a dmitted on h nds s an d da i s far to be di tinctly declining , the y not distant when it will hold the same place in edu cation a as s in Indi Hebrew doe in Europe . B u t Brahm in ism i s almost Protean in i ts power to a ssi milate n ew ideas an d adapt itself to new form s of: 28

! w s so a a u a s s C es or hip, th t gr d te from the Engli h olleg m ay often be fou nd among the priests of these n u a es s as s fi sa s a i s cle n templ , ju t the po t of ce ving b nk a convenient receptacle for the monthly takin gs at h t the g é . During the last few years competent observers de clare that the number of pilgrims to Benares h as i n as w eas a s of cre ed, o ing no doubt to the incr ed f cilitie

travel an d the opening of the great Dufferin Bridge . i s m a e a s s The v itor y find her m ny new temple , ome of them rivalling an d even surpassing th e old shrines in n d a of beauty a the costliness of their dorning . One s a a a aa a s m a the e, erected by the l te M h r j of Ben re , y s at Godau li a n ot far Dasasw am edh G a be een from h t, the carving of which in parts i s little short of ex qu i s i s a a ite . A second even more beautiful ne r Durg A t r i K . a a a und hi d, dorned with l rge number of g ld n s i s at a sa an d a so a ed poi t L k , fourth , not orn te; m ea st e i s at C a a G a a but yet, no n ructur , h uk h t, ne r th e e r a iron bridg ove the B rna. a so m a a i s of But the reviv l , if it y be c lled, devoid the marks of a movement towards better an d nobl er s ess a thing . The new shrines show no progr in rchi i t e e e e i n es . Th e a s tec ur , no d v lopm nt d ign ritu l a s s e en d a at t reotyped an d formal as ever . The imed e e e i s th e to e e a e a a e in th ir r ction old one, p rp tu t n m n d t s s a o secure meri t for the builder . A curiou a pect of this movement i s open to th e vi sitor who cares to ’ p ay a visit to a stone mason s yard at the head of Dasasw am edh G a e es ea an d s a h t , where t mpl gr t m ll, a an d a a o n to th e as an d c et pl in orn te, cc rdi g t te po k as H e m a of the purch er ar e manufactured . re they y e es a an d e an d t d be found, the pi c c rved number d fi te , ass at to ea complete even to the little br trident p , r dy to be packed up an d set down wherever the b u yer m a y find it fit or possible . N e e e s e was a s s em e o n d ev r b for ur ly, y t of r ligi n fou 29

m ore easy for the worshipper an d more lu crative for th e es w a s su c a s sa t s pri t, hich cl im h ugu t nc ion an d t a s s s so a hre ten uch dire peril , comfort ble for the idle

.a n d v s r so ss h s iciou ich, oppre ive to the one t, indus n s s s so c an d s s trio poor, which promi e mu h give o little

CHAPTER IV.

A l p h a b et i ca l L i st of P l aces a n d b e cts o f l nt O j e rest .

The following list h as been prepared to enable th e visi tor to find readily the description of an y place w m a se v an d a hich he y ob r e, the n me of which he s a a h m a a . a as y he r U u lly the n tive n me been kept, as s s as th e but in one or two c e , uch Monkey Temple an d G s a as the olden Temple, the Engli h n me, being h h as n s t e u . more common one, bee ed l An n a P u m a o r C ow Te m p e . This i s situated in th e n arrow lane which passes th e front of the Gclden i s sa a P r n a th G s . e s Temple It cred to Ann fi , odde who ! fills with grain an d who i s supposed to have under tas a a s taken the k of feeding the inh bit nt of the city . On as as an u n u sall a one occ ion, finding the t k y he vy h an s a h er s s e a . one, bec me very xiou bout client The G ss Ga a Ga s o s odde ng ( nge ), however, gener u ly pro m i sed to supply each applicant with a brass vessel a a s full of water if sh e would add h ndful of pul e . Th e a t s a l a s l bour hu h ppi y divided, the people of Ben re r n w a I n a e o supposed to be in no fe r of want . th e temple ar e kept large n umbers of cows whose es n e s n add to th l ss th e s pr e c doe ot e c eanline of hrine . ese ar e a a sa e a n a s an d s s Th p rticul rly cr d im l , wor hipper m ay often be seen ki ssin g their tail s an d shewing o t e s n s H e too si t a a h r ig of reverence . re gre t com an y of b n d a t an d am an d n ot a s p li , h l l e, few turdy a ab n ds w h o ea a a vest m n s v g o , r p good h r fro the i di 30

a a s of s c rimin te lm the wor hippers. The Temple was i n 1 2 a Ra a P i s s erected 7 5 by j of oona . It urr ou n ded b y a covered veran dah were devotees ar e to be seen s a s s a an d x a n n sa e ted, ometime re ding e pl i i g the cred s to u s a s I n b ook gro p of ttentive pilgrim . one corn er i s an a of Gan s a on e a u n im ge e h, in nother, of H n ma , i n a Ga i S an a a s b ox third, ur h k r with tone in fron t of s o f a an d an d i n her to receive gift gr in money, th e fourth corn er i s an image of the su n i n a chariot ' d a n n r w by seve horses. Close to the door of this temple i s a figu re of Ga s s a an d an s s ne h, with ilver f ce h d , who receive great a ttention from passing worshippers n otwithstandin g s a a h i s mo t grotesqu e appe r nce . a i s San i ch ar Ne r by the Temple of . u A r h a i Ka ng u ra M osq e . Those interested in ancien t r a s s a s a em in , e peci lly of Buddhi m, will do well to p y a visit to this mosqu e which lie s to the left of th e m a n M ach au dr i an s ain ro d beyo d T k . The mo que i s on e es i n n a s an d a i s a n of the fin t Be re , entr nce obt i ed to a a s n a a s a a a it by l rge to e g tew y omewh t dil pid ted . P assing throu gh this gateway we fin d ou rselves i n a l a a a a ass s b u i ldi n rge courty rd, f ced by m ive tone c s s a n a a a b a an on i ting of ce tr l ch mber, c pped y dome, two s ac s s i n i s a wing e h two torie high, which pro f usion of squ are stone columns of u ndou btedly ancien t i s a h i s n o rigin . There no doubt th t t is a rem ant of n u s an d a u s a ncient Hi d i m prob bly of B ddhism . A ton e sl ab w as discovered in the buildin g with a Sanscri t i n a 1191 s n n a n a a to . D criptio co t ini g d te equiv lent A . a date just previous to the invasion of M uham ma d o f ‘ G It s s a e a u s s i s an hor. eem prob bl th t B ddhi t , H ndu d M u h m m adan s a s sa a a s h ve in turn u ed the me m teri l , and that i n this remarkable b u ilding there ar e preserv ll i s e d memorials of a these relig on . a c s K as Ra a S a ar e th Ne r by, lo e to the hi ilw y t tion, e s Ga S a M B u ddhi t remains of the nj h hid osque. 31'

’ B a ka r iya Ku n d . This i s an an cient tank lying a little to the right of the road which leads to Raj a Ca s an d i s a u s h Gh t from the ntonment , f mo for t e

B u ddhistic rem ains which surrou nd it . On the western side of the tank ar e the remain s of a m agnificent ter r a n ow u a - n s s ce, unfort n tely over grow with hrub , a s m a a s mong t which, however, y be found l rge number f s a o beau tifully carved tones. On the e st few remains ex s s i s a a a s i t . On the north ide l rge gh t urmounted b a i d s as a M a a a s y bu l ing now u ed uh mm d n re idence, th e a s i ar e a nl pill r of wh ch, however, pl i y remnants o f a ui s b lding of Buddhi tic origin . But the most per f eet specimen of Bu ddhi sti c architecture to be found h an d a a s s s ere, in m ny w y the mo t intere ting to be f u a s s a t o nd in the whole of Ben re , lie lit le to the n orth- west of the tank pictur esquely placed i n th e a a i m idst of a grove of fe thery b mboos. It s a small B d s a M u h am ud hi t temple, crowned by dome by the m adan s a a u se as a a who h ve m de of it m usoleum . Th e building i s supported by forty - two square pillars a n d i s a e s i pproached by thr e portico . It s remarkable f or i ts s an d s e an d a se implicity tr ngth, the b nce of o a a s a a en rn ment tion doe not detr ct from, but r ther h a s ss s a . nce , the impre ion produced on the pect tor It seems certain that Bakariya K und was once the site of a s u s u s s very exten ive B ddhi tic religio ettlement, c s s n a s s s an d s s on i ti g of terr ce , cloi ter , temple urround a a ing the great centr l t nk . B a ra Ga n e s h Te m p l e . Thi s temple of th e Great Ganesh li es a little to th e left of the main roa d ’ s a e i s a h just beyond Madho Das g rd n . It temple eld i n high respect in Benares as will be mani fest from i ts a a a as al s a a e a ppe r nce, o from the m rble t bl t ne r the door requesti n g Gentlemen n ot connected with ! m Hindu religion not to enter the te ple . The great fi Ga esh s e a s an d e an d a gure of n , with ilv r h nd fe t, m a s e th e a n a gold aureole y be e n from m i doorw y .

33

m Adk sav i a h n u n der the n a e of e . It s a dsom e stone b u ildin g at the head of th e ghat leading down to th e

a n a an d s s ten a s s . I n s i s an B r , re t on pill r of tone ide im age of Vishn u with a black face surm ou nted by a h si r n . m a as a s a s s . lver c ow The i ge four h nd , l o ilver a s a o a s The upper right h nd hold c nch, the lower lotu , t an h as sa s an d r the upper lef h d the cred di c, the lowe a m a o s i s s n ce . In front of the d or of the hrine a to e w two a i ts su a ith feet rudely c rved on rf ce . These a r sa a s s s e id to be foot m rk of Vi hnu . A imi lar ston e i s i k i k T to b e seen at M an ar n a Ghat . h e temple below s s i s sac San am eswar h the one ju t de cribed red to g , whic i s n a a S a i s a as o ly nother n me for hiv , who reg rded h a t e s s . a i s an Lord of thi pot Ne r by, in crevice, a w u a s s i u n im ge of Brahma ith fo r he d . Thi s very u su a a a a h i s i s h i s l , for Br hm , on ccount of nce t with d a a a a i i s i S s s n a . ughter, r w t , very little wor hipped Indi s s all m s In thi one pot , however, the three me ber of th e a a a s an d S a ar Hindu Tri d, Br hm , Vi hnu, hiv , e u fo nd together . a i s P a a R a G a Ne r by the l te u of j h t . T m l s e i s B h a l r o n at h e p e . Thi t mple situated i n a lane leading from the main road near the Vi sweswar i a a a Gan j market . It s pl ced in m ss of bu ildin gs u s a an m s a a n h nder the h de of im en e t m ri d tree, whic forces itself through the walls of the surrou n ding houses an d spreads i ts feathery branch es far an d wide B ai r a bove them . on ath i s the divinely appointed K a a s a a s an d h otw l , or police m gi tr te of Ben re , throug a S a s h i s a a a him the gre t god hiv rule c pit l . Bh iro n a s a an d s a s s th e th ride on dog , thu tr ver e city, m aking him self familiar with every creek an d corn er of an d u n s all s w t m it, p i hing evil doer i h the enor ou s s aff a s t which he c rr ies. The temple re embles i n a a a a t a s s x a th gener l ppe r nce o her Ben re temple , e cept th t e d i s a a s ome covered with l rge number of gilded knob . I n side the tem ple i s a ston e figure of th e deity with 34

ff r a silver face an d four hands. O erings a e ma de to d i m s an a . s s a r h of flower n tive liquor Wor hipper , fte s off s ar e a th e p re enting their ering , gently t pped by r s s a a a e s p e iding prie t with bundle of pe cock fe th r , this being th e equivalent of a blow from the terr ible e a club of the god . On the l ft of the entr nce to th e i s a a s a an d temple l rge tone figure of dog, 0 11 each side i s a figure of an attendant bear in g a l a a a ar e th e rge m ce, while over the doorw y depicted i s w a ten incarnations of V shnu . The pre ent building s e 1825 a a a a P i a Rao rected in , by M r th r nce, B ji of An a s r s P a . s e r oon ncient hrine p eviou ly exi t d he e , some of th e old images of which m ay be seen under a on s C a verand h the south ide of the temple . lose i n d n by s the temple of Da p a . k l T m l i th t B r i d d h a e p e . Thi s s one of e oldest em es a es an d i s s a at a th e p l in Ben r , itu ted the he d of

l ane running north fr om th e Vi sw eswar Ganj market . Th e temple i s famous for a well an d a small reservoir th e water of which i s said to have th e power of n ot all s a s s es only curing di e e , but of b towing long life all a te e i s a di l a i on who b the in it . The mpl very p da e an d s s s se e a a s all t d building con i t of v r l courty rd , th e n r a on e of which, except ce t l in which the well i s s u a s a e l e a i n th e s n s . e it t d, how ig of gre t n g ct F c g v isitor 0 11 the left a s h e enters i s a l a 1ge stone fi u e a a th e m on k e od a g r of H num n, yg , r ddled over s a s To th i s i s i n e . e the u u l tyl r ght of thi the well, a n d in f r ont of that an d in th e centre of the court a i s a s a c a a s y rd h llow o t gon l pool, full of the foule t w a a a e s s a s i t es r ter im gin bl , con i ting, do , of the d ip s th e i a p ing from well . This s the w ter which i s said to posse ss the mir aculous proper ties of h ealing d s as an d l i i s a t a s a i e e pro ong ng life . It prob ble h t in te d of eas i s a s s a s as for decr ing, it the c u e of pre ding di e e, p eople afflicted with almost all the ills that flesh i s heir to a s s a a l at i s b the in thi t gn nt poo , of which the w er 35

a m a r a1 ely ch nged . Around the well y b e observed a large number of small r ooms containing images of v a r s s a r e e s iou deitie , the chief of which embl m of a ta to th e e i t Shiva . The legend t ched t mple s o the ff a w as t a e a n R a a a a a e ect th t it buil by c rt i j M rk nd , whose devotions during a period o f sickness wer e so rema r kable that Mah adeva not o n ly healed him b u t n a a n Th R u a . e a a o t r at t m de him you g g i j , of g i ude, built this temple an d gave i t th e n am e wh ich i t now ! a1 s an d c s sts tw o w r ds m ean i n be , whi h con i of o g old ! ! n d t M a h édev a w a dea h . still fu r th er plea sed i th this ev i den ~ e of piety en dowed th e w ell w ith th e m i r a cu l ou s r r es ch i t i s sti su o s d to ss p ope ti whi ll pp e p o ess . C o s B r i ddh k al a fe w a r ds to th e est i s l e to , y w , th e sm a s r e Al m r i tesw a r th e o d w h o e ll h in of p , g d li el s t s ar e at n t o f d ath v ho e who th e poi e .

B u d d h i st i c Re m a i n s . Th ese ar e to b e sou gh t f o r at Sizr n ath th e Ar h a i K a n u r a M os u e B a a a K , g q , k riy und, Lat a th e G an a os u e a n d Ga n Sh a h d Bh iro, y B pi M q , j i M s o que . D n l h i s em l e i s er ear th e a d p a n Te m p e . T t p v y n B h a i r on éth e a n d h e r e m a s een w h a t i s sa i Templ , y d n f B h ai r n ath I t i s a to b e the veri table truncheo o o . st s a t o a n d a a ee t i n h ei h t w i th a one h f , f ur h lf f g , a I t i s s a l ecor ated w i th a r la s an d c rved top . u u ly d g nd wat r T s staff i s C opiously sprinkled with Gan ges e . hi said to be so intelligent that at th e com m a n d of i ts m as i ts i o r ceeds to u n i s h of ter, it , of own mot n , p o p s th e wa o f t h e tem e fenders by terrible blow . In ll pl i s a small shrine contai n ing a very r ea li stic i m age of th e i I n t s te m e m a a s o b e seen goddess Kal . hi pl y l ’ ' th a W a te l t i s a n e f mou s K ctl K fip or ell of F . ordi n a w so s u a at th e t fa ls n ry ell, but it ted th ligh l i to i t from a square hole i n th e wal l above . This s ti n i n th e w a te el w s p roduce a peculiar reflec o r b o , uch t at th s a s s h i s a ce r am as i n a h e pect tor ee f , f ed pic w l fl t u e a t th ott o f th e e . s r e ec r , deep do wn e b om l Thi 36

n can a a s s n so n as su n s n s b u tio lw y be ee lo g the hi e , t s i s n on clou dy day it more or less i distinct . Woe n to a ss n n the the h ple wight who, on looki g i to this a s a h i s a for h i s m well, f il to m ke out own f ce, doo i s an d i n si x m s at s u s di fixed, onth the longe t he m t e. n om i s h at s The o ly c fort to him t under the ome roof, an d n a i s an a M a aK6] G at e r the well, im ge of h , or re a wi a sa h i m r i n F te, who ll , if propiti ted, ve f om evil

the world to come . s u o G a n j S h ah i d M o q e . This M osque i s a l n g low building close to the ci ty entrance of the Kashi R ail wa S a an d a s i ts a o a u y t tion, t ke n me fr m the l rge n mber ’ of M u ssu lm ctn soldi ers who ar e reputed to have fallen s a Ré é B an ér an d in the eige of the ncient fort of j , a a s who were buried here . The n me me n the Trea su re ! s s s s s s s Hou e of M artyr . The mo que con i t of two cloi s i s a a an d a a ter , one of which bout foot h lf lower a b su th n the other, the roof of both eing pported by a a a ca s a l rge number of be utifully rved tone pill rs. s a ar e a s a In the m ller there thirty pill r , e ch being a ss a a s little le th n nine feet in height . The l rger cloi ter h as o a s a an d f rty pill r , ten feet in height, l rger more a a a s s a s r be utifully c rved th n tho e in the m ller cloi te . These pillars ar e joined above by architraves of stone all on e n t of which, with the exception of or two rece

a s ar e a a . a n ( 11 ddition , be utifully c rved The c rvi g s a a s i s x u s an d a ter ome of the l rge pill r e q i ite, even f being plastered with successive coats of white - wash i s s s a fi I n the work till very h rply de ned . the centre of the large cloister i s an erection n ow used a s a

M a M ss an a b u t a. pulpit by the ull h, or u ulm pre cher, little examination will su ffice to show that it i s Th a S asa a . e re lly the old inh n, or throne of Buddh a s i s a a d c nopy over thi throne very be utifully c rve . i s a a a s s m a to It very prob ble th t third cloi ter, i il r s a on e i n a u s the m ller , formerly jo ed the l rger, th 37 m ak ing one long covered room, of which the Sinhasan i occupied the centre . It w ll be observed that the c s u i s a s a a n eiling of thi b ilding in pl ce of d rk brow , s a i a . s s a a lmo t bl ck, colour Thi due to the f ct th t in 1857 a a s a s , when b rr ck for Europe n tr0 0 p were erected on a a a i s w the pl te u ne r by, th entire building as u s as as - u s s ed a v t cook ho e . It mu t be remembered that the back wall i s not a part of the origin al b u ild an d st o i s a a ing, the one flo r recent ddition .

G h ats Th e . Th e m a s s s s n , gnificent erie of tair a d buildings which line the left bank of the Ganges forms ' u s s of a the chief feat re of the ight Ben res. Mr . W . S . Ca M P i s s as c h i s ine, . . , not too enthu i ti when in ! ! P t s a sa s m ic ure que Indi he y , Viewed fro the river, a es s s a a n a a a a s t s an d Ben r pre ent p or m of p l ce , emple s es s te b s a s an d mo qu , urmoun d y dome , pinn cle , min a ets str th ee s a r , etching r mile long the top of the r t ese s a s s n bank . F om h de cend gre t flight of to e s a s e i e l a s 0 11 c ar e l t ir brok n nto wid p tform , whi h bui t s t i u s n es a s s an d a exqui i e H nd hri , b thing hou e , pre ch i n a s a s a n d e s ar al ca s. G e g nopie h t , pl tform , pi r ive w t s e e a a e v i h pilgrim from v ry p rt of Indi , in ery variety of cu stu m e an d every stage of dress a n d n u ess e a e st aw e a s s tt at dr , grouped und r l rg r umbr ll , i ing th e e et s e l ea n e a a ea e a f of om r d m h nt or pr ch r, g zing at l ascet cs o st e sacr s n i n ho y i , j l d by ed bull , crowdi g a n d wa e r t se s t to w s out of the t r, d ying hem lve wi h el , r n t l s v e n p ostrate at th e margi el ing b ead . E ry morni g n h i s s a B e ar es th e E r ea t a duri g t y in n , u op n r veller should take a b oat a n d r ow slowly dow n i n front of ' ! ats the gh . Th e ghats have been described i n th is li st not i n a a t a e b u t th e e i n h t lph be ic l ord r , in ord r w ich hey a a n Sta ctu lly occur alon g th e river ba k . rting from D asaswa m edh Ghat th e traveller should proceed u p s a an d a te h e h as a s far as the tre m, f r gone he c ses s u th e sa an d o hoo , ho ld return to me point , g 38

w do n the river . s Das asw a m e d h G h at . Thi i s the centr al ghat of th e i an d i s on e th e s am ou s n a s c ty, of mo t f in Be re , b eing one of th e fiv e Speci ally holy pl aces on th e r e an Th e e u ar e ss San a a iv r b k . oth r fo r A i g m, M ni k ar n i kaGh a Pa c Ga a G a an d a a San a . t, n h ng h t B rn g m To V l Si t these spots in du e succession an d with a p ’ r O r i ate ff er n s i s to er r m th e P ri n ch - tzr th an p p o i g p fo , fli ac T s a i s a a ct of piety of n o mean e c y . hi gh t good f am f u se c s c a es i e. as a e o th e ou e . ex pl d bl u h pl c , a th e a i n oo s an d assen e s an d as qu y for l nd g of g d p g r , a n s i i u s a i a conv e i en t p ot f or rel g o b th ng . Here gre t a ti es s e a an d C a for qu n ti of ton from Mirz pur hun r, i i an d t e u oses ar e a de as as bu ld ng o h r p rp , l n d, well car oes of w oo for e an d o e for ca e g d fu l, f dd r ttl , while ex to M an i k ar n i ka far th e ar es c s n t , by l g t con our e of a b thers m ay b e ob served h ere . am e th e a d es a c s e e The n of gh t embo i uriou l g nd .

H h e i n th e a s n th e e ou Ra -fl Dev adasa it r, d y whe d v t j wa s i n ossess o of th e ci an d all th e t p i n ty, mo ley troop s an d o esses wh o t Sh a at ad of god g dd , , wi h iv their he h o e er e w e e ex e cam e a a a s a now ld rul h , r in il , Br hm s of th e ou tca sts to i sc e s e wa s py , d ov r om y of ou ting Ra a an d eco er cssessi on th e sa s the j r v ing p of cred pot . A on h i s sacr ed os h e a a cf rriving go e, dopted the g rb a a scet c an d a e e i t the Br hmin i , w nd r d w th deligh am th e e s an d a th e sac a s th e ong t mple , long red gh t of a c i e h i s i t i city . In order to h ev end occurred to h m to a th e Ra a s e n s si n an d so entr p devout j in ome h i ou , , th e c s om a ass a of a a with u t ry ur nce Br hmin, he de m an ded a e als for a r a sa the m t ri g e t crifice . The Rajé ’ l e e e ten an d a a s de ight d, provid d nough for , to Br hm si as h e s u s x a e a a s confu on, crup lou ly e min d the m teri l h e w a s ss a provided, found nothing mi ing, not one le f, eta a sa e th e not one p l of cred flow r, everything, to ten sa e w s a s s a . cr d hor e , there With gre t pomp then, ’ u a a s su t n en c s m n nder Br hm direct perin e d e, the ole 39

r was an d n s was a ite performed, he ceforth the pot m de sa s a i n t cred in the highe t degree, being equ l merit o Prayag (Allahabad) where the sacred Gang& an d a a s u s a s a e J mn join . From thi circ m t nce come the n m — — — , dasa aswa s m adam sacr i fice. ten, hor e, The c u ri ous m ay be interested i n knowing h ow R éja Dev adasa (in whom we have probably some di m a s s a r e memory of piou Buddhi t ruler, who for time ss i w a Th e a ss pre ed dolatry) s at last dethroned . f ithle a a so Ga s sl a Br hm never returned, ne h, the y , the cr fty Ga s s an d e on h i s ne h, creeping hither by ewer kenn l r at th e a a an d as e an a , took form of Br hmin, k d udi

Ra -fl Hi s - e e ai r d e nce of the j . well f ign d of profoun p iety soon acquired for him the post of spiritual Dev adasa an d e as to director to , wh n ked to point out h i s pupil some method of still higher spi r l tu al achi ev em en t s en li h tem n en t a a , he promi ed him g in dre m . a a a a ea a es In th t dre m c me the comm nd to l ve Ben r , i ts an d as a e an d with holy pomp e e of c lm d votion, u s i d Th e u R a t Go . a a r t to the w ll of f ithf l j obeyed, a n d o s Ga s s h i s when once ut ide, ne h re umed true form Shiva an d h i s unholy troop r e- entered in triumph an d h s ave never ince been ejected . At the southern end of the ghat i s a low white as u o a a a w hed b ilding quite dev id of rchitectur l be uty, i s Si ta la ss s a which the temple of , the godde of m ll i n sto . ss s e s a pox The godde r pre ented by old ne, rudely carved i nto the semblance of a human figure n Th e a d set in a ni che covered by a brass screen . m i s a u s of an d te ple frequented by l rge n mber women, at i s s a - a s i s t me when m ll pox r ge in the city, which an n 1 o ess s ar e a to not u frequent occu rence, pr c ion m de an d s a ff i s s r o i ti the temple, peci l o er ng pre ented to p p s i a a am ate the diety . In the ame building s l rge ling a ass s h as a s s s a s in br ocket, which r i ed figure of n ke i s D sw dh swar . s asa am e e s upon it Thi , the pre iding d a i s a of eity of the gh t . Behind the temple a p ir

41

Pa n d e an d S a r b e s h wa r G h ats ar e almost deserted Th e only sign of life an d inte1 est remaini ng i s a Brah m i n who still clings to these spots an d with difficulty s collects a few copper coin .

Ra a Gh at . s a s a was j Thi gh t, with the temple bove, e e Ra a a a R60 P s a C a rect d by j Vin y k , e hw of hitr kot . Th e t a i s a a s lof y building bove inh bited by Br hmin , an d a s an d for the rep ir of thi building, the feeding s s a a su m was a of the re ident , l rge of money beque thed Ra a an d s G r s s by the j inve ted in ove nment ecuritie . i s so a a a R N a r ad G h at n med fter the f mous ishi . s a . s s It i s a very picture que gh t At the top, the tep Wind to the right an d ar e shaded by tw o magnificent ea a i s a s a peepul trees. At the h d of the gh t m ll r d swar shrine sacred to N a a e . M a n sa rw a r G h at con si sts of nothi ng but a flight of steps which lead to M an sar war K und in the lane a w n n a bove . The gh t as erected by the Raj a M a Si g a f a s M an m an di r G at. o J ipur, who l o built the h S o m e sw a r G h at i s named from a temple to Soma

w c i s at th e ea a . the moon, hi h found h d of the gh t C h a u ki G h at i s remarkable for the large collection of stone idols whi ch ar e placed on a raised platform surrounding the base of the large peepul at th e top o f th e a a s a r e s N a th e Gh t . M ny of the e figure of g, s erpent deity . Ki d a r G h at . Thi s i s one of the finest ghats on the a es an d i s a h st Th e at G s b e t e o e . ng , id to l fti gh c onsists of several flights of stairs which lead up to th e a s K a e th e o s i o a s f mou id r T mple, m t mp rt nt hrine i n e a to st t the B ng li quarter . At the p of the fir fligh o f steps i s a square tank called Ga m a: Ku n d in h onor o f Ga r a s th e S a . u i, one of the n me of wife of hiv It i s claimed for the foul water with which this tank i s fi h t a as e . lled, h t it the power to cure fev r On the steps of the ghat will be ob served a number of em h l em s S a s a si an d of hiv , ome of them of very l rge ze 42

ff n s an d a ll decorated with o eri gs of flower rice . Th e temple of K i darn ath m ay be here described as i s s a ss r m e a Ki dar n ath it mo t cce ible f o the riv r b nk . i s another name for Shiva to whom the temple i s de Th a s di cated . e guardi n of the temple ar e very precise a n d w a m s s a s s th e ill not d it vi itor we ring hoe , but chief objects of interest m ay be seen from the door w a Th e s s s a a s a y . temple con i t of centr l qu re build i n s n e su a n a e ar e g, or hri , rrounded by colo n d in which se e a s a s es a a n l s v r l m ll hrin cont ining collectio of ido , two w a e n s an only of hich r of a y ize or import ce . They ar e of br ass an d ar e kept screen ed from public v l ot s h i c ar e th e at iew by c h , w h only removed by t a ah n th e e a n end nt Br mi on rec ipt of gratuity . Arou d the c olonnade ar e seated a m u lt1tu de ‘ of beggars who sprea d ou t their dirty cl oth e s an d whine for alm s s s Th e ce a s a n s from the wor hipper . ntr l hrine cont i th e s a S a an d i s a u e u u l emblem of hiv , lit by multit d o f s al am s m l l p . The most remar kable featu re of th e t emple i s th e two statues in black stone which gu ard th e t an s n ar e si x t en r ce to the hri e . They feet in heigh an d a h as r a s on e . a be utifully executed E ch fou h nd , of wh s a e a a a a r ich hold trid nt, nother club, third flowe , an d the fourth i s upraised an d held on a level wi th th e breast i n an attitu de a s if demanding silence an d n t a t e . Th es u es ar e a e Dwar al s t ion e fig r c ll d p , or door k s eeper . a l i G h at s s s a a w s s sa to L con i t of n rro flight of tep , id ‘ h a e ee er e a a a s i s a so v b n cted by cert in L li Dé . It l a Ch i n tam u n i G a i s a s at c lled h t, which de ign ion of G a s a fi u Le ne h, g of whom occupies a prominent place on th e s s lower tep . as h a n G h at s i s e a a n a an d i s M . Thi mer ly l ndi g pl ce m a a s 0 11 w i s a rked by tone erection, the top of hich l a ash én esh war s a as n al ing m called M . At thi gh t occ io cremations take place an d local tradition h as it that this n a n G a n a s an d a th e the origi l Bur ing h t of Be re , th t fi s m a was a son - i n - l aw a r t Do r of Shiv . Ha n u m a n G h at i s a h a s e s e s at th e nd om flight of t p , a i s a e e H a a o e he d of which t mpl of num n, the m nk y god . Th e stone building at th e head of th e ghat w as r ecently very thoroughly repaired by the devotees who reside e a n d o s fr th re, who c llected fund for the work om th e s Hindu . Da n d i G h at i s e a a e a s i ts a es for O r m rk bl , n me impli , th e e ees wh o r e an d se di s number of d vot f quent it, who ti n u i sh i n ea r i s th e a a an g g f tu e d nd , or w d, which they ar r c ry . Along the edge of th e lowe flight of step s m ay b e seen th e little round holes in which these wands ar e s tu e o n r ar a n ck whil the w e s e b thi g . h i s as S i va l a Gh at s a magnificent buildin g once u ed a. t r G e S n Ra a of e ar s. an ac o fo t by h it i gh, j B n e For c un o f th e tr agic occur rences which have m ade this fort f a ok mous the visitor i s referred to chapter II of this b o . Th e fort i s now i nh abited by the descendan t s of th e M r s ar e e ei a s o r m ogul Empero , who in r c pt of pen i n f o Th e a c st a government . l rge lu er of buildings djoining th e to th e n i s a Hi n d /12 M on a str a fort orth y, in which s r s o s ace t e set ou t number of mon k e ide . Fr m thi pl h y to perfor m their devotion s at th e var ious shrin es in th e an d ta h er a s city, to ob in t eir food, eith by volunt ry dole e e b e at a s a es (th y n ver g) or the v riou pl c in the city , where rich Hindus acquire merit by feedin g th e Th i s devout . e ghat s continued for some distance outh a s a ass s o s a a a s en w rd by m ive t ne pu ht , or r mp rt, tr g th en ed a a as s i s a n s e by oct gon l pil ter . Above it lo g ton building in whi ch reside the royal pension ers above r e ferred to . B ac h r a Gh n e a S a a i s i ar j at . The xt gh t to hiv l pecul o i Th e a s being the pr perty of the Ja n sect . property w as acquired by purchase from the bui lder whose name

s a a s . e s a r till tt che to it The thr e temple bove, with thei e i a es an d a s i s s t gild d p nn cl pend nt bell , belong to th ec , w u u s i s a on hich, tho gh not numero , yet very influenti l 44

a i t s n a ccount of the we lth of s member . The more or th r n s c a i s a n s m e e e tion of the gh t ne rly new , being o ly o thirty years old the southern part i s a hundred years

older . d a n ki Gh at i s a n quite new, h ving been erected withi the last ten years by the Rani of Sursand who se s s Th e B en ares residence crowns the top of the tep . f S a s s s ac s our hiv temple , who e re plendent gilded pinn le m a s ar e s y be een from the river, within the precinct of ’ Ra s a a s Ja G a i s the ni p l ce . Ju t below nki h t the pump

s a a - a s h as ing t tion of the Ben res Water works. Ben re the honor of b eing th e first city to b e supplied with at e th e sa e s eam an d s a con w er dir ct from cr d tr , thi f ct duces in n o mean degree to the popu larity among th e n a a a tive popul tion of the w ter supply . Tu l s i G h t s s s s a . Thi form the fir t ection of the row o f stone buildings which fitti n gly con cludes the l ong a a f a s a s th s rr y o Gh t tow rd e south . The hou e which crowns an d overlooks th e ghat i s said to have been th e r s en ce S a u s Das H e id of w mi T l i , the writer of the indi v s o a s th e Ram a an so ar er i n of the f mou epic of y , popul t o er a e cs e ar e hrough ut North India . C t in r li of the po t

s e te s a s an a s es a a & c . till xhibi d, uch old p ir of ho , ch ir, , b u t it i s very improbable that they ever b elonged to the am as f own Sw i . T ul si D wa s a contemporary o our S a es ea an d th e a e ta h as an a c e a h k p re, gh t c r inly n i nt p p ear an ce though it i s very im probable that i t i s a s ol d a s i s c a b e it l imed to , B a Rao G h s i s a at u s G at y at . Thi continu ion of T l i h a n d wa s th e work of the last of th e Maratha Peshwas of P Th e h n n . oona . T e buildi g i s unfini shed a d neglected r ooms situated in th e handsom e carved gall ery which as s o verlooks the river ar e occupied by wandering sany i . a s h t s e s L l a M i r G a . This i s a hand om tone building w as e s at e an d d ith multiple round pil t r ither end, crowne w as i b b y a gallery protected by lattice wor k . It bu lt y a ea a s am s a s i s w lthy merch nt who e n e it till be r , but 45 n ow Raa a s i s ast the property of the j of Rew . Thi the l s s b u ilding in the erie . Ass i a n a m Gh at at n ss n S g , the poi t where the A i joi s Ga s i s a sa d s a i s n o the nge , very cre pot lthough there a i s a building to m rk it . It one of the fiv e most s cred places on the river ban k an d i s visited first by pilgrims

Pa - i a who perform the nch t rth pilgrim ge . s s u n ow Dasaswam edh G a The vi itor ho ld return to h t, from which poin t the description of the n orthern Ghats

b egins. M a n m a n d i r Gh at This i s the n ext ghat to D asawa dh down e m e i . . a s i s the river northw rd , indeed it from s s s a a a s a a s the tep of thi gh t th t the tr veller u u lly emb rk . Th e a an d a n a s n ow gh t the building bove, o ce re idence, a n s a o ss a 300 a s a o b ob erv t ry, were erected le th n ye r g , y Ra a M an S a G a r j ingh of J ipur, overnor of Beng l unde Ak a G a an d i s all a st b r the re t, in prob bility the olde u i a As s n th b lding on the river b nk . ee from the river e b h as a s a a an an d a n uilding triking ppe r ce, ttentio should be specially directed to the very delicate ston e carving of the balcony at the n orthern end of th e Pr i n se sa s u i a M r . f b . o lding, overlooking the gh t p y s a m a a a a n t thi b lcony, It y h ve belonged to more ncie bu ilding before being set up in i ts pr esen t position by Ré a M an S u b j ingh, but whether exec ted or borrowed y h i m a s a a a an u i n n , it be r w y the p lm of tiq ity the tow , ’ ! an d i s a e u i ts ch f d oe vre of kind . Fergu sson in h i s Oriental Architectu re says that th e same Raj a erected a temple at Bindraban in which there

i s a a s a s . N as w b lcony very imil r to thi one ow, we kno a i sv swar s eh an i r th t the old V e temple, de troyed by J g was erected by this same R aj a an d that he was in all a a at i ts s o i t i s u st prob bility live the time of de tructi n, j possible that this balcony was part of the ol d temple

an d was rescued by i ts owner an d placed here . At the top of the ghat an d u nder the shade of th e w s a u c a a s th e ide pre ding peep l tree, whi h gre tly dd to 4 6

s a ea a S i s a c o p icture que pp r nce of the pot, colle tion f s e s i s i dol s an d shrine . The chi f of the e the temple of ' i Ddlbh es u ar . t s a t . y The dei y only nother form of h e a S a an d h i s s i s a at th e p rote n hiv , ymbol pl ced bottom o f a stone cistern some distance below the level of th e i s floor . The deity credited with the power of producing r a an d s as i s s a e w in, in the hot e on copiou ly b th d ith a s S w ater from the G nge . hould the much needed rains b e del ayed the cistern i s filled to th e brim an d the deity e el s i t i s s s a ntir y immer ed, when uppo ed r in will i n ’ n s d i s a s a f allibly e ue . The i ol l o c lled the P oor M an s Fr i en d an d i s s se to a a s , uppo d give m teri l pro perity to h i s r s s e i s wo hipper , though th re little evidence of the t f ac forthcoming . M i r G h at i s a simple fli ght of stone steps leading u p th a K u an d a s n a a to e Dh rm p group of temple e r it . Ne r th e base of the ghat m ay be ob served several erect stones t T m ar ki n g th e si e of Suttee . hese m ay be ob served at sever al spots 0 11 the bank b u t more especially here an d a t th e n G a th e ea s Bur ing h t, At h d of the flight of tep Dh ar m K el sa s a s p , one of the cred well of Ben re . It i s s a i n a s a an d i s an a itu ted m ll court, ordin ry well of a e i s th a s which the w t r none of e cle ne t . In the wall surroun ding the well ar e several small shrines o ccupied b a es S i a on e i s a D ev adé sesw ar y im g of h v , of which c lled ,

a n d e s ar e a Ra -1 h re divine honour p id to the devout j . N ear th e gate of th e enclosu re i s a stone emblem of

Shiva over four feet in height . Just below M i r Ghat i s a ruin called M i r Pushta after a certain Nawah M i r B a sta was S a a a s m Ali , who ub d r of Ben re in the time of B a a Si an d h ad h i s es lw nt ngh , r idence here . s h La l ita G h at . A i s boat nears this ghat the visitor w s n ea an s f ill di cer , through the f thery br che o a wide s ea a a a N pr ding t m rind, the gilded pinn cle of the ep au lese Tem le an d a s a as p , when the bo t come bre t of the building o n e of the most pictu resque object s on the river ban k i s Th h p r esented to View. e temple as a cu rious Chin ese 47

d i s i s l a u an s n a . su r ook bo t it, quite unique in Be re It m ounted by what looks like an in verted bell but i s really i d an u a an d all a s ntende for mbrell , long the edge of the r ass s ar e as oof br bell hung, which, moved by the breeze a as s n i a give forth not unple ing ou d . The temple s s cred to Shiva an d i s occupied by the usual emblem of that an d th e s a a e u a deity, before door crouche l rg b ll c rved a s i a a th i n bl ck tone . There s tt ched to e temple a ’ Dh a m sél a s c i s e r , or pilgrim inn, whi h frequent d by H s N a indu pilgrim from ep l . Ra r a esw a r i G h at can a a a a as j j h rdly be c lled gh t, the fl s s h as a i t ight of tep not been dded to complete , but the facade of the buildin g i s worthy of notice as a good specimen of the mix ed style of Hindu an d Moresque a e ar architecture . The lower h lf of the middl comp t m i s u s o e a e a e t ent Hind , while the t n g ll ry bov wi h the r a n d s i s p a pet a dome s at the corner Moorish . It was i built by Gosain Bhawan i G r .

Th e B u r n i n G h at o r J a ls ai n Gh at . s th e g , Ju t below N ep au l ese Temple th e bank of the river i s crowned by a v ast mass of lofty spires an d temples which overshadow s Th e st of some of the most sacred spots in Benare . fir se i s a th e s ad of e the the pl ce where, under h ow t mple

s r es u s u s h i s a a s. pi , the pio Hind give de d to the fl me The little muddy creek where this takes place i s dedi cat ! d s n a al sai s 0 11 e to Vi hnu under the me of J , the leeper ! a a am a a S e th e the w ter, n e ppropri te to the pot wh re a shes of the pious dead ar e Sprinkled on the bosom ! f a an d s te o mother Gang . The old picture que mple h ala ab ove the ghat i s called Raja B al ab h ka S iv . The i t tr aveller as he lands will notice a number of upr gh s a a a s tones, e ch decor ted with rudely c rved figure of a of a husband an d wife stan ding han d in hand . E ch n n S e t es . these stones marks the pot where, in old n , d was u some faithful wife un derwent S u ttee an b rnt alive on the same pyre as h er dead husband I t i s not en a on e m m at on s ar e n ot . oft th t or ore cre i

49

s th e a a t this seven time round pyre, t king c re o keep a a a s s h i s left h nd w y from the pile, he et fire to it at n d th e an d s all i s a a T th e head a foot oon in bl ze . h e s r a to an si t r elative withd w the top of the b k, where they s a o th e a in mournful ilence, w tching the b dy of dep rted r n a e s as s an d f ie d or rel tive b ing lowly reduced to he , when all i s consu med th e a shes ar e gathered together an d flung out on the bosom of the river . Not unfrequently th e visitor will ob serve som e poor creature gasping out i ts last breath n ear this spot n t di e a th e sa e st a an d s a co ent to ne r cr d re m, other gain m ay be seen who have been car ried here in their last n d a ass a a o e a a gony a h ve p ed w y bef r rriving . The unfinished building to th e left of th e ghat i s h a Gi r P s a e i n i ts s t e Umr o u ht , l ft pre ent unfi n ished u e state on th e death of the b ild r . s i s th e M a n i ka r n a ka G h at . Thi most famous of all th e a a s an d i t a es i ts a an d b thing pl ce , t k n me deri v es i ts sa t t th e e at to th e s s nc i y from kund or w ll the p of tep . s s s a a n d On the tep of thi gh t, on the long piers which ju t ou t into the water an d th u s materially i ncrea se the a s a e m a s all i ts b thing p c , y be ob erved in forms a n d phases th e ceremony of religious bathing as pra ctised by s t s t s th e Hindu . On he e projec ing pier si t devotees wh o for hours daily give themselves to the repetition of pr a er s an d a s an d t a a a y ch rm , go hrough gre t v riety of cere m s s st s u s at s an d onie con i ing of po t re , b hing libations i n a i s s n umerable . The gh t con idered th e central spot on th e river bank an d fr om i t pilgri ms set out to perform the a u s P it/ h osi P i l r i m a e f mo na K g g . The pilgrims travel southwards an d after perfor ming th e sacred task retur n to th e a i n ar as t gh t from the north dropp g b ley hey go, to s at th e S a a a a fini h old temple of iddh Vin y k, ne r the

a h ixt . m ass s a a s he d of the g The ive tone gh t, well as th e t s at th e n an d s t es two emple orth outh ex remiti , was b t a s M ar éth é n ss Ah lé B ai f uil by the f mou pri ce , y o n e a s a w i n w i I dor , e ted figure of hom h te m arble adorn s 50 th e front of the m assi ve ston e mar hi at the sou th en d of a the gh t . Ascending the ban k the visitor com es to the fam ou s ' ‘ a kct Ku n d a a M am k m i . Within r iled en closu r e i s a s a a a ac i ts s s a s qu re t nk, h ving on e h of ide taircase of s a n n a s a na a r fceti d tone le di g dow to pool of t g nt w te , with the rotting flowers which have been cast into it a s ff s I n s si s s s s o ering . thi the vi tor ee the mo t acred spot a s a a a i n Ben re . To b the in th t filthy w ter m eans to th e u to a a all a es for Hind obt in deliver nce from pen lti , even s s s . a m u r in of the deepe t dye The li r, the thief, the an d a m a e as an d an i n derer the dulterer, y h re w h be cle , a spot which the foot of the purest Christian m an or T woman would in stantly defile . h ere ar e man y legen ds s s o n th connected with thi well, the mo t c mmo being e followin g On ce u pon a time the good lord Vishn u i n a e r a h i s s s n ot tim of g e t drought dug out with di cu , a a an d a s s h i s without gre t p in l bour, thi well, to uccour Hi s sa r faithful wor sh i pp ei 8 . c ed sweat filled it to th e a a an d w n M a a ar r d brim with pe rly flood, he h deo ive a n d n i ts s saw as i n looked i to limpid depth he reflected, a h i s own a sa . a h mirror, ch rming vi ge Enr ptured wit s t an d a s s s n as hi m the igh full of the pr i e of Vi h u, he ked a s s a wa c th e to n me for him elf ome gre t re rd, to whi h s e a s n dutiful Vi hnu repli d, th t he could wi h for nothi g better than that he might always have the company of a M ahadeo himself . Now gre t indeed was the delight of an d i n ss h i s n h i s m the god , the exce of emotio body tre w a u w 10 ! on e h i s a s h t bled ith r pt re, hen from of e r rig m s a a t into the id t of the well, there fell jewelled pend n , ll d a n sa a . An s i s s m ki g it cred for time thi why, to thi

i s ca M an i kar n i ks of ar - n d a E . y , it lled , the Well the ri g Between the well an d the ghat on a raised platform i s a s a m n s a sm ll marble repre ent tion of two i ute feet . Thi ’ i s th e Ch a m n a P ddu kci n s 8 t , the mo ument of Vi hnu foo , i s sa a an d m a s t for here, it id, the god lighted rked the po er si n h i s n s for ev by the g of own footpri t . 51

N i s u n h e i at th ow let the v itor look ro d him, for s e v a u s s ery he rt of Hind i m . Above him tower a lofty t Ra a Ah m et an d a emple, the gift of the j of y , below, long th e sa s a ar e s a s m as edge of the cred tre m, ever l other , s an d a all s s th e ive richly c rved, but lowly inking into

.b d s s e of the mighty river . Around him urge a motley t s an d s all i hrong of pilgrim devotee of kind . Here s the naked yogi with matted locks an d sm eared fr om a sa as s an d s s th he d to foot with cred he , ide by ide wi Sa asi as a as i s him the gentle ny , cle n the other foul, c a a h i s sa a an d i n rrying in one h nd gourd of cred w ter, th e h i s a a h s th other b mboo w nd, w ich never touche e li n u . Nu zz a a a gro nd g bout mong the crowd, for ging sa e s an d a s an d ar e for cred flow r le ve dropped rice, sa s an d at u ear s a a cred bull , yo r come the f mili r whine, a s s e si r a as r B kh hi h give h re, ; one rupee, eight nn , fou ! i r a a a n a s. am s s ou an d n I prie t, , I m ke pr yer for y , s s a i s s a s sad all: turning, one ee wh t urely not the le t of m a s s a a m h the el ncholy ight here, fine young Br h in, wit a s an d a s s a w f ir kin intelligent fe ture , over which the h do of r an d n i s s a u g eed cun ing only ju t creeping, t king p th e x r cl e a an d a a mi ed of begg r, tout, bully gener l fr ud, probably in succession to one of the fat Sons of th e Ga s a n a s s . S a l. nge , qu tted dow there by the w ter ide m l c i s a h i s s omfort it to know th t few word of broken. s a a G C or Engli h were le rned in overnment ollege,

a a M ss S s s all i s i t. perch nce in i ion chool . But adde t of see h an ds s s ss s to the little of pilgrim , who e dre prove s a s a s ar e h f m them to be tr nger to Ben re , who urried ro s s s S w d hrine . des - to hrine by hired tout lo ly they cen s s sa r e an d a an d a ow the tep of the c ed w ll, d zed h lf c ed, s a s s a s a s a B a e t them elve in row . Down by them qu t r h m an w n a Hi s s e s ou t , t ice bor of he ven . unctuou voic roll a a a s w few m gic mantras which the poor cre ture ith. a s a i s sa ass ar e bowed he d try to repe t, the b t of cred gr t s th e s an d s on wi ted round finger tuck into the girdle, e b sa e s s ea s &c y one the cr d ingredient , flower , l ve , rice, . , 52

a s an d a a ar e added to the pile in their h nd , then fin l th e s a an d s fat ' h an d dab on houlder of e ch, out come the , a n d the little eyes glitter a s from crevices of the waist b an an d ar e on e d, the corner of the cloth brought out

a s. a s an d th e b y on e the ho rded coin Then tep or two, ' l ittle company ducks down into the noisome flood an d all i s i s . over, the crown of piety won S c i n d i a Gh at . Just above M an i k ar n i ka Ghat i s th e m agnificent ruin of what promised to be the most beauti a r s was f u l gh t on the iver ide . It erected on the ruins n a sa B i r swar u i of a old gh t cred to e . In order to b ld this ghat it i s said that the M aharaj a Sci n di a i n 1829

a R s . th e s s a a t e p id to prie t to llow him, for im on s ss ss t h e s to s a e ly, to di po e them hough promi ed rein t t a w as s s s an d m as them when the gh t fini hed . The tep s s m ar h i s a a a of ive tone rem in int ct, but the found tion th e upper portion h a s given way an d the whole strue h as a a a s a s ture f llen b ckw rd , wide rent being di tinctly a th e st s Th e a traceable long the top of ep . c rving on th e s i s a a s m r a turret in m ny pl ce i perfect, but in g e t a i s n s a n d s m a a s e p rt quite fi i hed, the vi itor y obt in om i dea from it of the beauti ful structure which was intend e d a s a s s s wi , lthough the life ize c rved figure of epoy th m s an d a n s i n th e u ket b yo et, which were to be in erted f a a e a e s th e ront, would h rdly h v dorn d the tructure, in e s ea s at as a i n di a m a ye of Europ n le t . Ne r to Sc a Gh t y s ometimes be seen i mmense reclin ing figures made of m u d an d u e s s e ar e colo red to r pre ent terrific giant . Th y m a s i a an d a es e nt to repre ent Bh m Arjun , two of the hero f a a a a a o the M h bh r t . S a n kata G h at i s remarkable for a temple an d a cano c a s p ied portico whi h dorn the top of the teps. They w e a a a a a Ga aB ai ere erect d by M r th l dy, hn , in honour o f th e goddess San kata Devi whose shrine i s i n th e M a al a s a th e a e th e h l ju t bove gh t . Und r the portico Shastras ar e read daily by Brahmins appoi n ted for the s p u rpo e . 53

‘ G a n ga M a h a l G h at i s so n am ed from a shrin e to G a Ga s s . l i n h as ngs , the nge , ju t behind it The bui d g a a s I n n i s a n l as n peculi r hape . the ce tre rou d pi ter con ect e d with an octagonal one on each side of it by two flights o f s a s s a s u di n t ir , which thu tr ver e the front of the b il g. Along the t0 p of the pilasters runs a balcony decorated s tO a ar e w with tone lattice work . At the p of the gh t t o a s a a fl ring red figure of H num n . t t n s la Gh a . This i s one of the finest buildings on a s r i n an wa a to the b nk of the iver, the only one y y equ l i n a a a s G a S a n it ppe r nce being Mun hi h t . t nding o a s a s a s a u i s a a pot where the river m ke h rp t rn, it pr ctic lly s a a s on s of an d i ts i ol ted from the gh t either ide it, ele an s s a a a a tw g t proportion how to gre t dv nt ge . The o massive octagonal pilasters which form the ends of th e ar e a an v er an dh a an d building, connected bove by open , a a i s an n a i su bove th t ope g llery, the roof of which s p a a s n a s e ported on row of eleg nt to e pill r . In the centr o f i s a a a the building double rched door, from which s s a s a s a Th flight of tep le d to Vi hnu Temple bove . e a an d w Ra a a or e gh t temple ere built by the j of N gp , n s a a bout one hu dred y ear go . A n sw r l ow s fi n t e a G h at . s i s a r i a g Thi ve y , in ign c was as P s a of looking building. It built by the l t e hw P a a Rao s a s a s c n oon , B ji . The m ll tone c nopie which row th e two ends ar e con nected by a beautiful creeping a pl nt which gives it a very pi ctu resque appearance . i n Ra m G h at . s i s a a s u Thi he vy looking tone b ild g,

c oloured a dull orange an d containing a large collection. f i a s i s an o brass images of Ram an d h s comp nion . It an cient ghat having been built over two hun dred years a a go by the Raj-1 of J ipur . La ks h m a n B a l a G h at i s situated where the river a s an a a a s a k t ke brupt curve inw rd, tow rd the lofty b n c M n a s s u n h rowned by the i ret . The impo ing b ildi g wit i ts lon g rows of black window frames an d ven etian

sh u r s was a Rao th e as th M ar ath é. tte erected by B ji , l t of e 54

P s as an d ss n am u s Né n f e hw , the predece or of the i f o é M a S a . i s a a a Sci n di . hib It now owned by the h r j of a . Th e rou nd stone bu ilding i n fron t i s a tem ple to Raghu

v eswar .

n n t s i s Pa c h Ga ga G h a . Thi on e of th e fiv e m ost sa a s on th e an d s i ts n a m cred gh t river, receive me fro th e ac as us a at s s o u r f t, Hind believe, th t thi p t fo r othe h s r s t e Ga s. u s a s ar e a m a iver join nge The e fo r tre m , Dh r N a a i u Dh uta é é an s si n d , (river of v rt e) p p , (cle er of ) K i r n an adi o su n a s an d Sa as a i , (br ok of r y ) the r w t , T s a s s a a . i s s sa s e ( pou e of Br hm ) hi mo t cred pot, wher s a a a u e ven the god find merit in b thing . The gh t bo nds i n s s ar e a as s on e hrine which in m ny c e occupied by not , s a s n at b u t several idol . The l rge to e erection the corn er o f a s n an i s a am the gh t, re embli g open pine cone, l p s an s s as o s a i s u t d, u ed on fe tive occ i n when the gh t ill n d i s sa a a a d m i ate . It id to be c p ble of holding thousan l a s a i s sa a n u i 5 mp . The gh t id to h ve bee b lt by s M n n a s a o a S . ingh, three hu dred ye r g M ad h o Ra i Gh at i s really a part of Panch Gan gs

G a an d a s an - wa th e h t, it le d up to old door y from which v isitor m ay obtain a most picturesque view of the ghat a n d river below . D u rga G h at i s closely united with the preceding ghat I t i s a r a u a a a n med f om temple to D rg , the bl ck f ced,

b - s s s S a i s s u at at th e lood thir ty pou e of hiv , which it ed s top of the teps. h G s i s an a a r B ra m a h at . Thi ncient gh t of irregu la f s a a an i ts wi n orm but very picture que in ppe r ce, with d a es M 6 i n g steps an d overh nging tre . Next to the 11 M andir it i s probably the oldest bu ilding on th e bank of t h e i s u M ar ath é a s river . It m ch frequented by l die , a n d was repaired by the Peshwa Baji Rao som e sixty e s a y ar go . Rajm a n d i r Gh at i s a long bathin g place crown ed by a m a s n t a stone embankment or pusht . Above y be ee h e

‘

.b a a a si en ce of ck w ll of lofty building, formerly the re d ‘

a Ra é a r w m a i s n am . j , fte ho the gh t ed 55

Sita l a Gh at i s so named from a temple sacred to

Si a a ss of s a - i s on sou t l , the godde m ll pox, which the th er n s e a h s u a a ea id of the gh t . The temple a a pec li r pp r a a a an d nce, being p inted red on the lower p rt white w as a It i s e . m d th e hed bove not uch frequente , mor p opular shrine of this goddess being sit u ated at Dasa swa dh a m e Gh t . Ga i Gh at s a s i s r e t nd out on a little promontory . It a a i ts s a s as s s a m rk ble for qu re tone pil ter . Below thi gh t i s a str of an a s t e long etch b k, b re of intere t, un il we com to

Tr i lo c h a n G h at s i s a a s a an d a s i ts Thi f mou gh t, t ke n a e s a Tr i loch an ea s me from the anci nt hrine bove it . m n

- an d i s an t S a wh o s a three eyed , epi het of hiv rejoice in r third eye situated in the middle of h i s forehead . The e ar e two low turrets at the foot of th i s ghat between l s a e a s a e er which the pi grim mu t b th , the w ter on ith h as s al sa t side no peci ncti y . P ra h lad G h at i s th e la st of th e ghats towards the n i s s s all a s orth . It one of the mo t picture que of the gh t , whether viewed from th e river or regarded from the b a s a s a r u ff th e nk . It stand on h p bl jutting out into s a an d m a a a s n tre m, from it y be obt ined ple did view of the whole r iver b ank a s it extends southwards i n a noble th i s s a e curve . The t0 p of e ghat delightfully h d d by s a a s an d s a a ever l l rge tree , form lounging pl ce very m a a t B afr n d uch ppreciated by the natives of this p r .

S an am. Ghat i s D u fier i n B 1 i d e an d s an g below the g , di t t n Pr ah lad a early three quarters of a m ile from Gh t . It i s s be t reached by land . G P OR T P OF VIS W ES W AR O LD E N TE M LE , EM LE i a N ATH . This i s by far the most mp o rt nt temple in B a s an d m a a as th e en re , y be reg rded very centre of i s s Shiva worship in the city . The building enclo ed in a - a s a v er an dh a an d i s court y rd urrounded by covered , n d c apped by two spires a a central dome . The dome an d on e s s ar e a s of the pire covered with copper pl te ,

57

was s t h e Jeh an i r de troyed by Emperor g the deity, a ni a s a ca s s o though only co c l tone, volunt rily t it elf int s i a s l thi well, where, in the bel ef of the f ithful, it til i s s a s s n reside s. The well urrounded by tone cree a s an d as s ar e s a as n o bre t high, devotee con t ntly c ti g int e s an d s as ff i s th e a it flow r fruit o er ng to the deity, uthor ities have prudently covered the mouth of the well with B sheets of iron to prevent the foulin g of the water . y the side of the well sit s an attendant who ladles out to w or sh i h er s sa a e an d s the p the cred w t r, in return receive ff s i s e a a of their o ering . The well cov red by fine c nopy s s t a s Th e a w a s tone upported by for y pill r . c nopy erec ’ a M ar ath ct ss Sr i a B ai a B ai of ted by prince , M ut j G a 182 i s an e s a i o 8 . a e w li r, in Ne r the w ll imm n e N nd i a s e e h e h t S a . s or Bull of hiv It monolith, ev n fe t in g th R a C s i s a s a l e gift of the aja of Nep l . lo e to it m l s so a a a n an a e hrine, mewh t elev ted, cont ini g im g of S a a s s ar e n as i s hiv . Im ge of thi deity u common, he s a s ffi s a i n u u lly u ciently repre ented by the ling m, but s as a t h i s thi c e we h ve him completely depicted, wi h terrible thi rd eye in th e cen tre of h i s forehead an d s S a h i s around h i s n eck a garland o f .skull . e ted on i s Pé r b ati h i s s l a th e left knee , wife, who hold in her p

n a s a i s G én a s . i f nt Gane h . Ne r by the y B pi Mo que GYA B AP ! so a l a s i ts N I M OS! E , c l ed bec u e of It proximity to the Gyan Bapi or Well of Knowledge . i s the principal mosque i n the city an d i s remarkable h a st Jeh an i r from ving been con ructed by the Emperor g , son A a G a ou t u s a a n t of kb r the re t, of the r in of m g ificen t Vi sweswar a m a s b e emple of , portion of which y till s n at a s s s i s ee the b ck of the Mo que . The Mo que it elf n ot t u s a s a i s ss e wi ho t ome cl im to be uty, but it impo ibl to obtain a good view of the front of it by reason of th e a t a a h as s as su t f ct h t the chief entr nce been clo ed, the re l of a fierce con flict between the Muhammadans an d th e Hin dus as to th e right of way over the courtyard ou t s Th d M s ide. e Hin dus prevailed an the o que enclosu re 58

i f m H e s m a s entered ro the side . re the vi itor y observe th e large nu mer of beautiful carved ston e colu mns whi ch support th e fron t of th e Mosque an d which for m erly a r . as s M s do ned the old Temple The pect of thi o que, in i ts a ss an d aff s a s n a s to cle nline quiet, ord triki g contr t s an d s ts a r s the noi y noi ome cour of idol t y clo e by . Proceeding to th e back of the mosque the visitor m ay o btain scme idea of the magnificence of the former tem l p e . Judging from the portion now remaining it m u st h ave been much larger than an y temple now em sti n g i n a A a s Ben res. ntiquari ns ee in these ruins a mixture of a an d u s s a u an d i s J in Hind tyle of rchitect re, indeed it though t that th e Hindu Temple w as preceded by a B u d dh i t Vi h é r a a a s a or Mon stery . Wh t ppear to be Cloisters of s as m a se u a of thi Mon tery, y be ob rved nder the terr ce th e M s u s os th e s n a e o que, j t opp ite tone bull e r the W ll o f K i s o s s s s a a s nowledge . The clo ter c n i t of m ll ch mber , th e roof of which i s supported by square pillars of a p r i m i ti v e type of architecture said by expert s to be B u d i i dh sti c . s s a s n The cloi ter bl ckened with moke, bei g u sed as a cooking room by th e Hindu attendan ts at th e w ell . ! In the Autobiography of Jchangir the Emperor gives th e following a ccount of th e destruction of th e a of Vi sweswar I am a ncient temple . here led to rel te that at th e city of Benares a temple h ad been created b y Ré é M an S h ad s 36 a s of j ingh, which co t him l kh h Th d i a s r fis. a ts a e princip l i ol in the t emple . h ad on h ea d a tiara or cap enriched with jewel s to the value of t a s ash afi h d a s m hree l kh of r s. He a pl ced in thi te ple m as th e ass at s an d s s a s of orever, oci e mini tering erv nt th e n a o e a es s ac pri cip l idol, f ur oth r im g of olid gold e h crown ed with a tiara in like manner enriched with preci-r o u s s s was th e s J ah an n am i tes tone . It belief of the e t a a a u e a h ad e a h t de d Hind , provid d when live he b en wor s a s o s to hipper, when l id before thi idol w uld be re tored l . As I ou n ot ss e s a n e ife c ld po ibly giv credit to uch prete c , 59

I m a fi i a s n as ta n th e u e ployed con dent l per o to cer i tr th, an d as I justly supposed the whole was detected to b e a n i m s s a a pudent impostu re . Of thi di covery I v iled m yself an d made it my plan for throwing down th e t was s n s i m ostu r e an d emple which the ce e of thi p , on the spot with the very same materials I erected the great s e a s a s a was s mo qu , bec u e the very n me of I l m pro cribed ’ a t n a s an d G s l ss t i s s Be re , with od b e ing i my de ire, if I ! u s live, to fill it f ll of true believer . J A T P I N EM LE . The most accessible of the ten or twelve temples belonging to the sect of Jain s in Benares i s s u at a a it ed in garden near the front of the Town H ll . Th e Ja s B s s s ~ in , though they were never uddhi t , till pre serve in India some of the distinctive B uddhi st doc s as so far as t trine . They reject the Ved except hey c fi c s an d a r e th e on rm their own do trine , free from s extravagant idolatry which mark Hinduism . They h s r a sa s s wh o old in upreme reverence ce t in intly oul , by m editation ar e believed to have raised themselves to th e h s s t s ighe t piritual alti ude . Of the e they reckon twenty s er a an d a es of a s four in the pre ent , im g them hold pl ce f s descr i b o honour in their temple . In the temple here e d a large n um ber of such images will be ob served placed

- t on an altar in the inner shrine . The twenty hird of t s Ja s s a s was Par asn ath w se he e in , or piritu l heroe , , ho s Th e image i s occasionally found alone i n their temple . as was M a a i ar as a s a e so a e l t h b r, now reg ded hi toric l p r n g b t a . Ja s ar e a s a u c ontemporary with Buddh The in m ll, w a s an d es ar e s es e lthy ect, their templ ometim very b a an d a a s s r s ea t s e utiful, lw y c upulou ly cl n, being in hi p oint most agreeable contrasts to the Sh i v al as of th e Hi n dfi a s s s ar for s. They h ve the mo t crupulou reg d a an d th e a nim l an d vegetable life in every form, more punctilious du st their seat s car efully before occupying t an d ar a fin e o r m on th s hem, we piece of linen ver thei w hen drinkin g water to pr even t the u n timely death of n s a y in ect . 60

KAM ES HW AR TEM P LE . This temple i s situated i n a a s M ach au dar i a an d i s sa l ne to the outh of T nk, cred to i s n S a as th e s . a s n an d hiv Lord of De ire It old hri e, but little used except on festive occ a sions an d by pi lgr i m s At a a i s a. s a l m . the right h nd of the entr nce m l te ple a s an d s u r with collection of idol , within, in the fir t co t

- a i s a ar r . s u r t y rd, l ge kettle d um The econd or inner co y ard i s literally crowded with temples an d ston e figu res s Th i s sa K am . e a s esh w r of deitie l rge t temple cred to a , the image inside being the u sual linga set in a brass c s r a a e i te n . Around the ba se of l rg peepul tree which s a s th e o t i s a s i s over h dow c ur , collection of tone de tie ar s s ess M ach au dar i of v iou kind , one being of the godd

a a an d an Su n . I n a a l riding on pe cock, other of the w l a a a i s a a a ar si n h of the ver nd h ne r by c rved im ge of N g ,

- the M an lio n inca rnation of Vishnu . He i s a horrible st a a an d h a s h i s s a i m mon er with lion f ce, on knee vict i h i s c a whom he s disembowelling with l ws. Opposite th is revolting representation of the divine i s a b as- relief o f a sa R s a as h i s as s int, the i hi D rv , who by cetici m i s a s said to h ve attained equality with Vi hnu . In the next a a ar e a s Ram an d S an d on r ver nd h im ge of its, eve y a i s a a l s of all s s h nd gre t profusion of ido ort . LAT B A R h an d s H I O . On the left ide of the road as r a oes Ra G a an d a n the t veller g to j h t, ne r the junctio of G a r a i s a a an d a o i t with it the old h zipur o d, t nk, b ve a a a a h wi n p ved pl te u, the whole of whic , th the exceptio o f a s a s a s i s a M a a an m ll qu re enclo ure, now uh mm d s s s was a s a s a o Mo que . Thi Mo que rebuilt bout ixty ye r g a a s of ol d by Mirz Bul ki, one of the exiled prince the u a ar s en cl o Mog l f mily who live in Ben e . In the little s i s a a s n t ure referred to pill r mothered with red pigm e , i a It which s regarded by Hi n dti s with gre t reverence . i d s a Lat or u a . o s o c lled the , cl b, of Bh iro It nce t o within the enclosu r e of a temple which was destroyed by r a an d s s u s th e orde of Aur ngzeb , the tone ed to build ou r wa a Th r es n ar i s te ll of the place of pr yer . e p e t pill 61 o nly a fragmen t of the origin al one which was thrown down an d broken i n a struggle between the Hindus an d M uhammadans in 1805 The tank below the platform i s K a i lm h an a the p oc T nk .

LO LAR IK K! AN . This remarkable well i s just b e h ind the engin e h ouse of the pumping station at B h a

da ass s - i s ini . The m ive tone work of the well the work o f s s Ra Ah al a B ai a Ra a e a an d three per on , ni y , j of B h r, Ra i a a o . r s a s Amrit The well prope round h ft, bout fifteen feet in diameter an d protected by a strong breast as a ss a e e o work of m onry of gre t thickne . The w t r b l w flows through a lofty archway into a stone r eservoir i n th e s a a a a a i s ea h pe of p r llelogr m, which r ched from

m ssi s - s s above by three a ve an d steep fli ghts of tone tep . The whole presents an appearance of great solidity an d s n an d a t th e s a tre gth, the lofty rch connec ing round h ft t s a h as s an ai r a an d wi h the qu re opening, uch of gr ce ss as s s a s l am s lightne , erve to pl ce thi we l ong the mo t i t s s i s a s t e n eresting ight of t kind in Ben re . The mo iv th e a s u of e i s n ot a a for peculi r con tr ction the w ll pp rent , b u t the connection of the round shaft with th e parallelo a o s s s s m of th e a gr m bel w di tinctly ugge t the for ling , th e m l a th e s e s co mon emb em of Shiv . On t p of the well i s a most ab surd figure of Ganesh in which that deity d an a th e a s epicted in erect ttitude . In w ll of the well a r e s a ar s s t a r ea a e i n d ever l c ved tone , eviden ly of g t g ~ a h s s p rob bly brought ere from om e old hrine .

AR T THE o r ! o f A! RA G! B . M I N E S , , MOS! E N E s M s i s cal at es a s a Das Thi o que led by n iv of Ben re , M dho k é Dh ar ah r a r th e a s a Das a n , o Min r of M dho , th t bei g th e n a u e a t an of me of the Hind build r who, the comm d th s t Th e e c h a s ct es . Emperor, ere ted t e e be utiful ru ur M o sque to which th ey ar e attached i s at the top o f Pé n ch G an G a an d o s s m a n an d gs h t, f rm the mo t com ndi g, cer f ain ly th e m o st bea u tiful feature of th e lon g array o f e d s w n e an M s e s i s ifice hich li the river b k . The o qu it elf s aid to have b een erected from th e materi als of an i m 6 2 mense temple to Vish n u which on ce stretched alon g th e an an d M a s to an n o river b k, the in ret were erected y Hindus by making it possible to overlook the inter iors s can s of their dwelling . There be no que tion of th e an d a n ss s w beauty extreme gr ceful e of the e lofty to ers.

t a . n é Ch ev r i llon sa s o A recent French r veller, M A dr , y f m s s a a s ar d r the , They pring tr ight upw rd , with the o r a e s a an d o f a p yer, with the imp tuo ity of cry ; one per w a s s u m on oth c ei v es the fervent ork of imple, re ol te, e ! i sti c an d ardent race . at a at th Se ed in the little c ge the top, the whole of e ’ s at s an d on e s s n s city lie one feet eem , like the pigeo i c a s a r . which cir le bene th, to be p oi ed in mid The as u di fii cu lt i s n o a s a u s an d th e c ent, tho gh , by me n d ngero s r a a s a u r view from the ummit mo e th n rep y the l bo . Th e heigh t from the base of the M osque to the top of i s 142 a ts a 8 the minarets feet . The min re r e } feet i n h at as at t e s . M u s u l di ameter the b e, ummit The s s a s a m an attendant i entitled to m ll fee . De scen din g from the M osque the visitor will ob serv e a as i s a t n peepul tree, round the b e of which perfec pa

- u s. i s an o wa theon of Hind deitie Here too old do r y , n on h a f m a a n Openi g to the g t, rom which y be obt i ed a s u s th e a an d mo t pict re que view of gh t, the river, th e n Du ffer in Bridge beyo d . Fr 111 this point the vi sitor m ay make h i s way throu gh s s a a a win g treet , truly orient l in ch r cter, to the Bra ss aa an d C au a s s i n B az r thence to the h k, mo t intere t g walk. AR C T B AR M I SS I ON Y SO I E I ES I N EN ES . Visitors to Benares who ar e in terested in the presen t relation s of C s a n s l a a a a s t hri ti nity to Hi dui m, wi l h rdly f il to p y vi i

‘ to one v l other of th e Christian missions here represent cd M ss a s ar e a a s a s s o s . i ion rie lw y re dy to hew their cho l & s n s s an d a s s e c. to per o intere ted in their work, l die p ci ally m ay in this way obtain an insight in to the dom es ti c life of Indi an women which would otherwise be c u m ss u s s l t th e lt or i po ible . To ri t might we l devo e 63

S n a so u su a s n i n u d y, lly pe t doing this or that portion o f a s a the city, to ymp thetic enqui ry into the present s a Of ss s an d a t te mi ion , to obt ining a. view at first hand a n d o f the l bours of the men a women who here hold u p a f s s the stand rd O Chri t . Engli h servi ces ar e held i n s on S da an three churche the un y, d H industani services t s a s all a ever l other , to of which visitors ar e cordially

welcomed . A few words on each of the Societies here s n m a a repre e ted y not be out of pl ce . i i s i n a r i t B a pt st M s o y So c e y . This wa s a bran ch of

S am . ss s a s i n 18 19 a n d s the er pur Mi ion e t bli hed here , thi Society h ad the honour of sending th e first E nglish M i s a s 1890 si on ar y to Ben re . In the male missionary was a i s s a a n withdr wn, but work till c rried on mong wome n d s th e a s ! e a a ss n a girl in connection with B pti t n n Mi io . r h s r i t C h u c M i s i o n a y S o c e y . This Society h as i ts a a s at S a e i s a c a n or he d qu rter igr , where ther hurch , ’ m al s s a s a a an d C s an chool for girl , girl orph n ge, hri ti v a ss o h as a a s a a e ill ge . The mi i n ch rge l o of very l rg ’ s s a th e B a Tcl a a Ja a a a s chool itu ted in eng li , c lled y N r y n C a e a e a wh o ollege, fter the nlightened n tiv gentlem n u i an d an d a th e a of b lt endowed it, who, cting on dvice C a a a B a s a d the devoted orrie, former ch pl in in en re , h nde 18 17 it over to the Church Mi ssion in . The Society h as also a church in the cen tre of the city which th e s a a an d i n s s ar e vi itor c nnot f il to notice, which ervice held which ar e attended at tim es by large numbers of us S s s an ar e i n intelligent Hind . ervice in Hindu t i held S a n d the igr Church morning a afternoon . d i s S h as i t Lo n o n M i ss i o n a ry So c ety . Thi ociety s hea d quarters near the Cantonments Station where th e u s s M ss a s ar e s a e h ho e of the i ion rie itu ted, togeth r wit ’ n d S the church a girls school . The work of the ociety i s a a an d a s an d h educ tion l ev ngeli tic, in connection wit ’ it there i s a number of girls school i n di fferent parts o f an d a a a ! a a s a o i s the city, l rge mount of en n vi it ti n d n i s a i n n th M i s o e . There H gh School co ected with e

5

the parched grain with which they ar e liberally fed by s swa s worshipper . They rm throughout thi entire r an d a s at K u r u k sh etr neighbou hood, will be found l o the n an d Lol ér i k ar e far Ta k the Well, both of which not a a i s a a a ea s a o e s w y . It rel ted th t few y r g th y exi ted s a s an d s a a th e in uch l rge number , did uch d m ge to roofs of th e buildi ngs hereabout that a certain magis a at es a a s a an d tr te, the requ t of the inh bit nt , c ught a transported very m ny of them beyond the Ganges. The temple an d tank ar e the gift of a pious Bengali a t a a a an d ar e n ot h e R . l dy, ni Bh w ni, very old The e i s s a a a a a e th e a en templ itu ted in l rge qu dr ngl , m in t a r n r nce being on the west side . In f ont a d close to

th e a i s a N au b at K a a a - s a ro d h n or b nd t nd, for the ac a s a s s eci a a commod tion of mu ici n on p l occ sions . Between t s an d th e i s a a ar w i t a a hi door t ll pill h figure of lion, e a n th e r o e to . a i the prop r vehicl of Du g , p Ne r by s a s a st e a t a t s m m ll on pill r wi h lit le hollow in the um it . h s i s th e a ta e an d ea i s a e t t T i l r of the d ity, n r it cl f pos to th e a m a sa i which ni l to be crificed s bound . This i s s a a a i s th e s h u u lly go t . It tied to po t by t e head an d an attendant lifts i t up by i ts hind legs an d holds it so a i ts e i t on e s th t n ck s extended . Wi h wift blow of th e heavy knife i ts head i s severed an d i s immediately plac s s ed on the altar . Thi become the perquisite of the s i s a e a a an d prie t, while the body t k n w y consumed by th e i s a worshipper . It openly verred that many Hindus se as e es a t who otherwi would never t t fl h, dopt his ex edi en t sa a a p to get a voury me l of kid pill o . On each s o a th e i s a s a s ide of the d orw y of temple m ll hrine . s a a ar e s s In ide the m in doorw y two tone line , one on a a a s t a s God e ch h nd, with their f ce directed ow rd the s s s th e a a i des . All round the four ide of qu dr ngle s a s an d s c overed verandah used by pilgrim devotee . I n front of the temple proper i s a porch which was erected b a a s a y a native military offi cer bout thirty ye r go . From th e centre of thi s porch hangs a large bell which i s said 66 to have been presen ted by a European M agistrate of a Mirz pur . The temple an d porch ar e beautifully car v ed an d i , the floor of the porch s paved with alter n ate s a s a s a an d w a qu re l b of bl ck hite m rble . Through th e d oor of the temple m ay be seen the image of the Go d d ss a an wi a s ac an d an e , wom th ilver f e enormously di s an d a n s a tended red tongue, decor ted with umerou g r f an s o s. s i s a s l d flower Thi the deity, thing to hudder a t i s s s , which the cho en object of wor hip of the m il d a n d intelligent Bengalis who live in such lage num b er s a s an d s a n s u in Ben re , on Tue d y morni g her co rts ar e s e s an d ss a s a thronged with wor hipp r , numberle go t r e s a n h e i s n l ughtered in her ho or . S the o ly deity who i s w s sa s an d sh e was m or hipped with crifice of blood, for er ly the patroness of the bands of blood - thirsty Th u gs h who of old in fested the roads in India . Well as sh e s e as been de crib d ,

a G ss a D rk odde of the zure flood, Whose robes ar e wet with infant tears ;

S - C a a b kull h plet we rer, whom the lood s e san a s Of men delight thre thou d ye r .

s i s n s The story of the Goddes i tere ting . Originally a a em s a a o r gre t d on mon ter, c lled Durg, cquired power ve gods a n d men an d ruled them with great tyranny an d a a a a oppression . When ppe led to for deliver nce M h i

e a h i s Ga to s a . Sh e d v ordered wife, uri, l y t—he demon , n s a t l a war n taking upo her elf errib e form, w ged up o h i m an d a a s i n h n a ns e e , fter fierce truggle whic mou t i w r s an d seas sh e am e torn from their root filled up, overc an d h i a a w a n d slew the demon s rmy . Intoxic ted i th deli ght sh e began to dance about among the slain with a a an d so w d the bleeding he d of Durg in her h nd, il s a l a s a r m w ere her an tic th t the pi l r of the e rth t e bled . Gods an d men again appealed to Mahadeva to save them an d s th e ess i n r en z from ruin to top godd her wild f y, but sh e could n ot hear h i s voice in the madn ess of h er o as l a n a n th e a an d n j y . At l t he y dow mo g de d, o ly 67

when sh e foun d herself trampling on the body of h er h u s an th e ss s i n b d did godde , thru ting out her tongue sh a an d s a as m ad ca an d th e me di m y, ce e from her reer, h ad a a sh e h as a d ear th pe ce . From th t time been n me r o n sh e s B u r s an d i s s f m the demo lew, g repre ented with u a s a a n s an d th e h fo r h nd , three of which c rry we po fourt a a s s a r at bleeding he d, uppo ed to be th t of her g e h h a a u e s e s a a s s. nemy, while round her neck g rl nd of k ll a i s k u Ne r by the Lolér i K é n .

’ N AG K! AN o r th ' s an e S ERP E N T S W ELL . Thi in o ld well situa ted i n the N ag K u é n Mahalla in the north i s a at western part of the city . The well prob bly of gre a e ass s s a wn ar e n ot g , but the m ive tep which le d do to it m o r e than a hundred an d fift y year s old . The stairs a r e a s a an d a w a in the form of qu re, they le d do n to c a at h as i ts a l ircul r well the bottom, which on inner w l a windin g staircase of stone slab s which leads to th e s a a s a r urf ce of the water . At the he d of one of the t i as s i an a s a s an d s al c e s im ge of two n ke intertwined, in ever ss a e l rece es in walls ar e im ages of the s m kind . The wel i s visited on two da ys i n th e year in th e rainy season by a th da m s . e s en gre t crowd of people On fir t y the wo , a n d s da a a u s in the econd y the men, b the in gre t n mber in the filthy water of the well an d make offerings to th e a v rious ser ent images here to be found .

O B S ER ATORY THE M AN M AN DIR . , This in ter e sting buildin g i s reached by a lane which leads from th e a swam edh G a head of the D sa h t . The visitor enters by a i s a Ga an d door over which figure of nesh, traversing a assa s a a sk winding p ge he enter courty rd open to the y , s i s b u t haded by several trees. Th courtyard i s su rrou nd e d by sever al room s which a r e occasionally occu pied by pilgrim s an d other tr avellers. In the ri ght han d cor ner of the courtyard i s a ston e staircase which leads to th e o h ar e th e as a i s r of, w ere to be found tronomic l n tru ments i s a ou for which th e building f m s. These instruments were constru cted by Réjé Jay Singh of Jaipu r (a su cce 68

sor of m a M an Sin gh who erected the main building ' an d the ghat below) in the reign of the Emperor M u ham m

1 19- 1 4 m ad S a 7 7 8 . Ja S n was a h h, y i gh f mous for h i s s i i n as an d was a k ll tronomy, ppointed by the Emperor to reform the astronom i cal tables then in existence whi ch were

w a a . a s Ja kno n to be in ccur te To en ble him to do thi , y S s a s at a a a n ingh erected ob erv torie Delhi, M thur , Ujj i , n Jaipur an d Benares. The i struments in this observa tory have been fully described by Pandit Bapu Deva

Sh é str i C . . . a s m a a d , I E copy of who e booklet y be obt ine A from th e caretaker . bri ef descripti on only i s here at a s a s tempted . At the he d of the t ir on the right hand s i s a a as s a of the vi itor w ll, on the pl tered urf ce of which r a a a s s a an d a e tr ced two qu dr nt , inter ecting e ch other

a off s. s B h atti an tm or m rked into degree Thi in the y , ’ a a a an d was s s s s a m ur l qu dr nt, u ed to ob erve the un lti an d a s a a s a tude gre te t declin tion, by which me n the l ti an d th e a was th tude longitude of pl ce determined . To e n orth of this wall i s an immense instrument called th e am r at s n f Yan tra S (prince of in truments). It co sists o a a a a a n t centr l w ll, c lled gnomo , pointing due nor h, with tw a s a east an d s s n e o rc br nching form it, we t, built of to

a n d m arked along their edges in degrees . In the edges

of th e gn omon four iron rings will be observed . These

ar e th e centres of the ar c s on each side . The whole i n

m - o strument forms an i mense su n dial . On n e of th e e a s a a a an i s a sid w ll of the gnomon mur l qu dr t tr ced, a a a s an d a i s an simil r to the one lre dy de cribed, ne r by

- a a sm a r other su n dial of much smaller size . Ne r the lle i s an s u a E u i n octi al Ci r cle a dial in tr ment c lled the q , a a i t d r th larger dial with centr l spike po n ing irectly no . By this the distan ce from the mer idian of th e su n or a a n i s n s r star i s obt i ed when it in the norther hemi phe e . C s s i s Ch akm Yan tm s n lo e to thi the , or wheel in trume t, c s s a a ass n on i ting of circle of iron enf ced with br , movi g s wa a o n an axis which point due north . There s or igin lly l l l index finger of brass attached to the centre of thi s 69

h n ff n n w w as n o . s u m as heel, but it bee tor The i tr e t u bb i n n ar sed to ta the declina tion of a pla et or star . Ne b i s a s all s a th e Di ansci y the l rge t of the in trument, c lled g an r a s a i a 4 2 n c s i n Y t . It con sist of a centr l p ll r feet i he s ce a s n on e height, urrounded by two con ntric w ll , the in er n sa as a an d r bei g of the me height the pill r, the oute e a i a s ar e a on x ctly twice ts height . Both w ll m rked s a s r s a s an d r their upper urf ce in deg ee p ce , on the uppe wa a lls four spikes ar e placed to mark the cardin l points. The instru ment was constructed to fin d the degrees of a a a zimuth of pl net or star . After inspecting the instruments the v isitor should as to u hi s i cend the roof of the b ildingw ch overlook ther ver, fr om which a splendid view of the city an d the surr ou n d m a s of ing country y be obtained . Following the cour e

- as i s a s b th e the river to the north e t, the eye rre ted y Du ff Gan s s s r m erin Bridge over the ge , which pre ent f o s a s a a n an d thi point mo t gr aceful appe r nce . Betwee it the observer i s the long cu rved lin e of ghats an d tem ple s c a a o r whi h line the left b nk of the river, bove which t we s a si e a n a s th e in t tely, yet mpl gr ndeur the mi ret of m s of an s ir n th e o que Aur gzeb . In the oppo ite d ectio e e ws a s an d s th e as on e y follo the line of gh t , oppo ite l t , o n a s a i m a oh pur of l nd jutt ng out into the river, y be s Ram a a s a a a a a ena s erved n g r, the e t of the M h r j of B re , w i i s s n th e u e sh a w hile beyond it, in the hor zon ee bl do of a s a i hi s h ar e n n s di t nt l ne of ll . T ese the or ther purs of the great Vindhya chain of mou ntai ns which r u n d own i n a south - westerly direction an d join the Western

G a s. s v s i s s w a a m h ut De cending, the i itor ho n l rge r oo o v erlooking the river an d decorated in a somewhat gaudy s as a n a n It i s as na tyle with !pl ter orn me t tio . occ io lly u s as a n e a ed confere c ch mber by pandits. PAN C H KOS I ROAD and PI LG RI M AG E The Pan ch K s ten a i s u o i, or mile ro d, the bo ndary whi ch marks off the sa cred city fr om the com m on soil which surroun ds i t. wh o n s All die withi thi limit , of whatever creed or 7 0

n i n x c h a a ar e a ss n . Th r cter, cert i of bli the e t world e i u a so a n r oad s a. very old one tho gh h rdly ncie t as i s a s ar n u r u s supposed . On the Ben re side of it there e me o s a s n s s ar e s s act th e m ll hri e , the deitie of which uppo ed to

a a n an d u a an s sa i . p rt of w tchme g rdi of the cred c ty . Starting from M ani kar n i ka Kund the pilgrim s proceed a a th e a Ass San am b refoot long b nk of the river to i g , from which point the road branches off in to th e cou n try The first halt i s at K an dh wa at a distance of about si x m s M an i s f ile from ikar ni ka . Here there a temple o c onsiderable age an d of some beauty where the Pi lgrim

s s . s a i s Dh u ch an di pend the night The next t ge to p , a o s a i s a a u m i es b ut ten mile , fter which tr mp of fo rteen l to Ram eswar s n S v i s m i s . From thi poi t to hi pur eight le , an d here he mu st visit the temple of the Panch p an da v as s Y u dh i sh th i r a i a u n a , or the five brother , , Bh m , Arj , a u a Sa a a all a r on e N k l , h dev , of whom were m r ied to K i l dh ar w . S a a a s u an ife From hivpur to p , picture q e t k i i s a a s s x s. hi s t ju t beyond the B rn , mile From t s po b ack to M ani kar ni ka Ghat the pilgri m scatters on th e n a s a a r s es grou d gr in of b rley, little of which he p e erv a s an ff Y a a B i n a ak a Gan es o ering to v y , or the B rley h, n a M an i kar ni ka a s Sa h i e r . After vi it to the temple of k B i n a ak a Cow a m an ce y ne r the Temple, to h ve the perfor of h i s as a s m a u r n om e t k duly tte ted, the pilgrim y ret h

a ssured of having achieved full salvation . The road i s v ery pictu resque being lin ed nearly throughou t by a d s s s i ch ou ble row of tree , the huge trunk of ome of wh r a a ar e a ti n b ear witn ess to their g e t ge . There other h l g p laces besides those men tion ed at some of which v ery a s a ar e s a an d i s a st i c large t nk of w ter itu ted, it mo p t u r esqu e sight to observe bands of pilgrims of all ages n d s x s s n n as a i t a both e e , often i gi g they go, cl d in br gh c oloured garments passin g along the road under these a s s S a n an s as a s ade gre t tree , who e wide pre di g br che c t h v ery pleasan t to th e travellers i n the hot season of th e ea y r . 7 1

C C T K s a i s s u a P IS A H MO HAN AN . Thi t nk it ted just behind the large palace of th e M aharaja of Hathwa h Pi ssch m a s w ich adjoins the Ch etganj Road . e n m n an d M a r as an d s i s an de o , och n, ele e, the tory of th t k i s as follows A certain powerful demon once entered na s an d a n d a a i i s Be re , h vi g overpowere the gu rdi n de t e s a a Pa K s a w as who t nd on guard long the nch o i ro d, he at s s B h ai r on éth K ot l of met thi pot by , the deified

. r r ns a the city A te ific conflict e ued, in which eventu lly w a s a sh an d a . a the demon v nqui ed behe ded The he d, a M a a m a i ts ow n c rried before h deo for judg ent, ple ded cause to such purpose tha t it was decreed that not only should the demon be allowed to reside on the spot a e a b u t a n o s where the b ttl took pl ce, th t pilgrim hould be allowed to proceed to Gaya without first bathing in s ank thi t . In r eturn he promised to protect the city d an all who bathed in h i s tank from the attacks of evi l ! s pirits. The tank i s greatly frequen ted by residents n a s for th e s i s a of Be re , belief in evil spirit very prev lent . i It s a fin e sheet of water an d i ts ban ks bear th e ruins s a s. a th e s s of ever l centurie The gh t on outh ide, which h as a s sa a i s sa a en s t lmo t di ppe red, id to h ve be con truc ed as n as e a a a n d a l lo g three hundr d y e rs ago . The gh t w l s w a a a a R ao on the we t ere built p rtly by Hindu, B lw nt , an d a a ssa a r a K u r a S a p rtly by Mu lm n, M i z h r m h h, a u a a s a a on bo t hundred ye r go . The north gh t which ar e n s s a s e u u r s was the rui of ever l ton str ct e , the work a u Ré é M u r li dh ar a a an d of Hind , j , bout hundred a s s twenty ye r ince . On th e east side ar e the tem ples an d ab o s a s the de of the Br hmin priest . The chief tem i s an s u e a n s s a u of ple old truct r , re lly co i ting of gro p s n s th hri e , out of e cen tre of wh ich spring two sacred s a u an d a an a w th e tree , peep l b y n intert ined . Under shade of these trees m ay be seen the gr eat head of th e d Pi sach a r emon , g inni ng mon ste r fear fu l to beh old ; n i s a f u - a s n u an n a ext to him o r h nded Vi h , d ear by a fi an u a l rge gure of H m n . Here i s also a pecu liar figu r e

7 3

w t a a s s a a a s a i h the B rn , tretche tri ngul r h ped tongue of an cn a sa s was s u a l d, which, tr dition y , once it ted the s Ra a a ar i s h s a mas ive fort of j B n . There no i toric l evi s a s a a dence to prove thi old time t le, but thi lofty pl te u, c a a s s omm nding the city, bove which it tower ome thirty fiv e e an d i ts s s a f et, defended on two of ide by the B rns, a n d Gan s was at the ge , undoubtedly one time occupied by ma sses of buildings an d was the seat of a consider a a t was ble popul tion . At h e time of the Mutiny it t e i s wa s s 1865 for ifi d by the Brit h, but de erted in on a t i ts a ss n st ccoun of unhe lthine . The o ly object of intere v s i s Lél a a K a a sol now i ible the tomb of Muh mm d h n, d r s e a ie of fortune . The in cription over the ntr nce to 1 6 A . th e tomb bears a date cor responding to 7 8 . D RAM A AR F RT N G O . This i s the seat of the Maha a a a es an d i s s a i a r j of Ben r , itu ted on the r ght b nk of the

G a s a t a a ss G a . ac nge , bou mile bove A i h t To re h it, the travelle r must drive pa st Du r gé Kund to Kam ach h a

G a a stan e a u s r Ca o s. h t , di c of bout fo r mile f om nt nment From thence he will be able to obtai n a boat across to th e For t . s an d n a e v s to Before vi iting the Fort, to e bl the i itor ’ s r a a an d Ra é s Ga n in pect the inte ior of the p l ce, the j rde ’ s a r t s a fr M ah ér é é s Hou e, pe mi hould be obt ined om the j a s a s s at Ra n a ar a a priv te ecret ry who re ide m g . The ppe r ance of the fort on approaching it fr om the river i s s th e ss s n an ai r at triking, round buttre e givi g it of gre s a a ss olidity . The interior of the p l ce will not impre the v s a s a s n s e i itor ccu tomed to the gre ter ple dour of Europ , but the view of th e city from the balcony overlooking th e i s s h i s a s to s river uperb . T ere l o he r e be een a temple e a to Vedav é s as d dic ted y , the compiler of the Ved . o a e r Ra a a i s a a ou s an an d Ab ut mil f om mn g r Fort f m t k, a a t w a s an d very be utiful emple, both ell worthy of vi it, as they ar e both c ontiguous to a very pleasant garden a n d a n - s m a s a a an g rde hou e, they for uit ble pl ce for a te n an i s a fin n n d f r oon picnic . The t k very e o e a was 7 4

c n s Ré a G S an d h a s n er ed o tructed by j heit ingh, bee rend a s w V edav é peculiarly sacred by i ts associ tion ith y s . s a a Ga s n v es U u lly, to die on the right b nk of the nge i vol a s r a o an ass at tr n mig tion into the b dy of , but whoever, s a s a V edav ss i s n u r ed the peci l fe tiv l in which y ho o , bathes in this tan k i s su re to escape that terrible tran s a a a i s m ost form tion . The temple ne r the t nk one of the s ar ts beautiful an d certainly the most elaborate in the e p . It was begun by Gheit Singh an d completed by hi s i li t a all s r s s ss s . s e r n a ucce or It y covered with co e , y s s s sa an m a ls hundred of culptured figure , in which cred i , a a s sa s an d s ar e s i n r eat inc rn tion , int deitie repre ented g

s all s a a . m e profu ion, being mo t c refully c rved The te pl i s s a s s n i n u scu u r thu plendid pecime of modern H d lpt e . ' S T ARY C H! RC H . s i s s a n c u r c M S Thi the t tio h h, an d i s i s asa s t in charge of the Chaplain . It ple ntly i u a ’ i n a a e s o s C a s an d ted l rg enclo ure ppo ite l rk Hotel, i s a a s h c p ble of seating four or five hundred person . T er e ar e no monuments of an y interest in the bu ildi n g an nor c it l ay claim to an y architectu ral beauty . Th e s was ad 1827 an s a was pire, which ded in , tr formed wh t a plain unpretentious structure in to an archi tectu r al enormity The followi ng inscriptions ar e to be fou n d on s the ba e of the font . This church was first erected by subscription u n der the direction an d personal su p erintenden ce of Jam es R s 1 . 1 E s . 8 . 5 . obin on, q , A D s s s u r was a th e R v The fir t tone of thi ch ch l id by e . an C e C a a . D iel orri , h pl in This chur ch was con secrated by the Ri ght Reveren d a God R a s of Ca u a F ther in , egin ld Heber, Lord Bi hop lc tt , 5th Se 1824 ptember, . This chu r ch was enlarged an d repaired at the ex e se G e an d s e u l an d o an p n of ov rnment, the teepl , p pit, rg loft, were erected by priva te subscription u n der th e s n n n a s Pr i n s 1 2 —2 Th uperi te de ce of J me ep in 8 7 8 . e 7 5

wa s n d a S Na a a S c s e n , lock pr e te by B bu hiv r y ingh, 1 29 8 .

at 11 A M n d 6 P S r . . a M u th ervices a e held . . d ring e c sea s n old o . T S AKHI B IN AYAK EM P LE . In a lane just behind the An na Pfir n 5 Temple i s the temple of the deity wh o i s supposed to verify th e fact that pilgrim s have faith u m P5 K s a e r e f lly perfor ed the nch o i pilgrim g . The p s i i s Gan s a a a a s id ng deity e h, gre t red im ge of whom f ce o nl ss a an b e s the do r . U e the f ct of the perform ce regi ter ed can a n o o e here, the poor pilgrim h ve h p of pro fiti n m h as s by the erit he o laboriou sly acqu ired . S gN IC AR AT! R H o r S N . An im age of this deity m Th ay be seen n ear the door of th e Golden Temple . e image h as a silver face fr om which an apron depends ss which con ceals the fact that the deity i s bodile . AR AT S N H . This i s th e site of the fam ou s Bu ddhistic a s an d i s s a a t th e th e n rem in , itu ted little o left of tru k a n a s G a u at a u e es ro d from Be re to h zip r, bo t thre mil s a a a i s a al to di t nce from Ben res. The n me pplied loc ly a s a to a far di s a r o u s m ll temple Shiv , not t nt f m the r in , an d i s su pposed to be an appellation of that m any- named a b e u a n S5I5 deity . By others i t i s s id to eq iv le t to

N5th S5I5 ani - i n - l aw an d th e e i s , me ng brother , l gend that a brother- i n - l aw of Shiva when on a visit to h i s a was n u h i s e an a e rel tive, i d ced to take up p rm ent bod u s a m a th e ea n i s e a here . The u l e ning among l r ed d cl red to S5r an an 5th th e e i n ase th e be g , lord of d er, which c a i s a of an i es n all s e n me relic cient t m , whe thi r gion was a ast a u a i n on e of h i s v deer p rk, in which B ddh i a nc rnations ranged as lord of a herd . Th e remains n ow i n existen ce consist of two large r s an d a as ass n s uined tower , v t m of broke brick , evi d en tl r u n s n as r s a s a n d y the i of former mo te ie , ch pel tem d i s n s. a r i s a Dha m ek an a ple The l rge tower c lled the , i n s s m ass of an d s n s n 128 t mme e olid brick to e, ri i g fee a n a t bove the ge eral level of the cou n try . The lower p r 7 6

o f a t 43 i s u n i the tower, to heigh of feet, b ilt e t rely of C a s an d n o ar was s hun r tone, in the erection mort u ed, a s th e c n ass i s but e ch tone, even in very e tre of the m , i ts s n a s c a s. as l mped to fellow by iro b nd The upper m , s s a s was a i n a as con i ting of l rge brick , prob bly orig lly pl ter ed over an d surmounted by a pinn acle bearing a gilt u a 1835 a s a was s a a mbrell . In h ft unk with gre t l bour d th e o u n a s own centre of the t wer to the fo d tion , but a an was s an d i s nothing of gre t import ce di covered, it gener ally supposed that the tower was er ected to be a as n a s a n l ti g memori l of the Buddhi tic creed . The c rvi g on the stone portion of the tower i s very beautiful an d i s a s A ar e in pl ces well pre erved . round the tower there e ight projecting faces in the centre of each of which i s a niche 5 1} feet high i n which pedestals still remain n which pr obably ea ch carried a figure of Buddha. Seve o f s e a s ar e a a c s the e ight f ce richly c rved round the ni he , a n a s u n s the c rvi g in pl ce being evidently fini hed . Ar ound the building runs a triple band of or n am en tati on m i an d s . The ddle broadest band con ists of a s r a fi s ou t ea c s n an d v riou geomet ic l gure , with gr t pre i io c a ss a r n a le rne . The upper band consists of scroll o s a i a s an d s i e ment of the lotu pl nt, w th le ve bud only, wh l i n a s i s s i n the lower b nd the lotu repre ented full bloom . Th e exact age of the tower it i s impossible precisely to d m as s s a shi n th eter ine, no in cription or record e t bli g e a h as n s i ts i s sa n f ct bee di covered, but form id to belo g s n r s ass to the eventh ce tury of our e a . The exten ive m o f ru ined brick su rrou nding the tower will give the visitor some faint idea of the great buildings that once existed

. as a s a a s s an d here V t qu ntitie of m teri l , both tone r a d at a s s to b ick, h ve been remove v riou time to the city s s s an d n r a of be u ed for building purpo e , the o ly emn nt s s s a s as d b e s &c . x s the core of t tue , reli f , , which once e i te a r e a a s i n a h here, two mutil ted im ge imbedded the e rt , the one to the south - east an d the other to the n orth s of Dh am ek we t the . 7 7

As a—result of the excav ations made by Cun ni ngham i n 1834 35 an d Ki ttoe 1851 a ns in , the found tio of very extensive buildings were discover ed con sisting of mon a ster i es an d temples an d al so the remains of a very an st a e s a s a e cient up , or tow r, the hemi pheric l h p of which shewed it to belong to the earliest style of Buddhist a s was rchitecture . An in cription brought to light which ‘ showed that th i s an ci en t tower h ad been repaired in 1026 n d h a a a . a at t e s s a s A D . me time l rge number of t tue an d b as s s a s m relief , exqui itely c rved, were re cued fro u s an d a s d s s th the r in tr n ferre , ome to the ground of e ’ s C e an d s u s at Ca a ! ueen oll ge, ome to the M eum lcutt , E v di en ce w a s a s where they m ay still be seen . l o di s covered of the fury with which at la st Brahminism ex ti n u i sh ed a . a e a s g the religion of Buddh The ch rr d be m , n a s s i a s s a h ad with il t ll tr n fixed, howed th t fire complet as a an d s an d s ss th e ed the dev t tion, how udden remor ele a a h ad w as s w a es tt ck been , he n by the qu ntiti of food a e an d s a found prep red but yet uncook d, nodule of br ss ss a s a s a from ve els melted in the fl me , while he p of bl ck ened bones gave evidence that all the inhabitants h ad a not time to esc pe . an d a a N ow let the traveller pause gl nce roun d . He

s a s as a - s r a t nd , it were, on the w ter hed of two g e t reli i u s a a ni s an d s s . g o s y tem Here p rted for ever, Br hmi m s s Sa a r Buddhi m, for with the de truction of rn th the milde faith passed to a greater empire an d a wider sway i n a as e n en s the f rther e t, where now the t emi g milli of

a a a an d C a h er . u s Burm , J p n hin own rule To both reli

d awe- s s ar e m i s s an . B e gion ghty, my teriou in piring tween them they rule the destinies of more than half th e human race an d both sprang to life an d g r ew to vigorous ar e s a a se s a power near where we t nding, mid the h ttered s n s a s u ! brick , u der the h dow of thi r ined tower Near the Dh am ek i s a Jain temple which the attendant a s an i a i n p riest will exhibit to visitors. It cont in m ge P5r asn 5th as of a n black marble of , the l t but one the J i 7 8

~ a a s of h divinities. About h lf of mile to the outh t e Dh am k i I e s the secon d towar called the Ch a u kan di . t i s a a 23 an d a se on a oct gon l in form, feet in height, r i d 4 i n i An n sc n i n th e mound of brick 7 feet he ght . i riptio northern face of the tower shews that it was erected i n th e M Hu m 5 u n wh o n d the time of oghul Emperor y , reig e 1530—1 56 n i s a as 5 . n A D . The mou d reg rded bei g formed by the remains of another tower of the sam e age a s an d Dh am k a a e . s , prob bly much loftier th n the Vi i t s m a as C a a or y cend to the top of the h uk ndi, from which a good view of the surroun ding country wi th a glim pse o f s a an d a s m a a the di t nt city the min ret y be obt ined .

T W HA TH . s i s a O N LL , E Thi fine building of brick C n a s n u pointed with hu r tone, built in the mixed Hi d s m a a n d Moori sh style common to Benare . The in hall i s s n an d and eve ty three feet long thirty two feet wide, n d will seat between three a four hundred persons. T ar e a s s a on e th e here two fine portr it in oil in the h ll, of d a M ah 5r 5 5 of i a a a an d onor of the H ll, the j Viz n gr m, w E s . as C s n . s r the other of H F . Tucker, q , who ommi io e o f a s n an d s as a Ben re duri g the mutiny, who e memory Christian gentlem an i s revered among natives to this d s w E . a s a s . . . as h i s y . Mi Tucker, better known A L O , a i a sister . Over the entrance to the H ll s marble slab i n scr i with the following, tion ALF HA ED LL .

a was . M a a This H ll built by H H . the har jah of Vi z i n a r am K . C. S. I . a v s f a g , , to commemor te the i it o H P n A e R . . . 1 0 87 . I H , ri ce lfr d to the city in June, t w a s 187 3 i n 187 5 an d commenced in , completed , open ed P b . R . . a s 187 6 w y H H the rince of W le in , when it as s as a s s pre ented free gift to the citizen of Benare . Opposite the Town Hall i s the M ai dagi n Tank an d

G a d s. a an a a r en The l tter form gree ble promen a de, much appreciated by the residents in this crowded par t I n a i of the city . the t nk s a large n u mber of fish of a ca u s kind lled roh , ome of which ar e of a very lar ge size 7 9

a n d ar e so ta e as a a an a e m to ppro ch the l ding pl ce, wher they a r e fed by n atives who r egard them with great v n a n e er tio .

CHAPTER IV.

Hi n ts t o Tr ave l l e rs .

The European in Benares could go anywhere an d see n s i a s s . 6 . a nythi g if he would ob erve two imple rule , tr vel

a an d a o . b refoot, refr in fr m touching The touch of a a an an d a all ss a s Europe n h d, bove the pre ure of hoe, a as i s s n a s a t m de it from the ki of l ugh ered ox, th e s sa a a s a s defil em en t mo t cred of nim l , me n which the most painful washin gs an d bathi ngs hardly suffice to r e a r i s as move . To refr in f om touching e y, but to go bare s a ss i n s cas s an d foot c rcely po ible , hence ome e , those as ta a a the le t impor nt, the tr veller will h ve to be conten t with views of the in teriors of temples as seen from Open a s a s s doorw y . On the w ll of ome of the chief temples will be observed marble tablets with requests to gentle men not belonging to Hindu religion to r efrain from eu

n th e . s a s ar e a an d teri g temple The e t blet of recent d te, ar e due to the ofii ci ou s conduct of a set of men who i n s s a s of s an d a as i n fe t the e pl ce intere t, who h ve in the p t, th e a a s i sa hope of g in, introduced tr veller nto cred places ss ss as s a a without po e ing the le t h dow of uthority. These ar e a Da l5ls a e tou ts an d l t men c lled , nglic , of them e th e a a a s m n tr veller bew re . In the tr in of one of the e e s m a he goe as a sheep to the slaughter . They y be r e s t n s a f cogni ed by heir broke Engli h, their evident l ck o a su ffer i n n ess u k r e occup tion, their long g under reb e, turning like a beaten Spaniel after the most scathing

sa as an d a all - s n rc m, bove by their whole ouled devotio s s a i to the intere t of the str nger w thin their gates. ! C ! a a n s n s E RSI ONS . In rr nging the followi gexcur io a ttention h as been paid to what i s really important an d a s a a s characteristic in Ben re . M ny d y might be spent in visiting an d inspecting all the places m en tion ed i n

81

a e 60 an d e u h as th e u t M a e Town p g r t rn ome p t Fr i rk t, Hall a 7 8 P a s an d ffe n s i a , p ge , rince of W le Du ri Ho p t ls.

e c o n d Da Afte r n OOn Th e Pl each M och an tan k S y , ’ 7 1 u een s Colle e an d s a 7 2 B ar d p age , ! g ground , p ge , n esh Tem le a 31 Ja i n Tem le a 59 Ga p , p ge , p , p ge , f h ai r on dth Tem le a 33 Dan d dn an d ! ell o B p , p ge , p f te a 35 B r i ddh Kdl a 34 N a Ke an Fa , p ge , , p ge , g , page 67 an d return v i a D5r 5n agar an d part of the R5j t a an d as i n Gh 5 ro d, over the Iron Bri dge p t the Bl d n d Asylu m a Cemeteries.

M o o n l igh t Ri ve r Exc u rs i o n . A v isit to the Gh 5ts by moonlight i s a very interesting experien ce an d if the season be favourable th e visitor

will do well to avail himself of the opportunity . Ar ran gemen ts should be made for a boat to be ready at Assi Gh 5t to which place th e visitor m ay proceed by a e a a a a s b e s n on ro d . On mb rk tion the c rri ge hould e t to a a at Dasaswam edh G a aw it the tr veller h t . As the boat drops down with th e current the gh 5ts

m s n on e . n a co e lowly i to view by one The moo light, cle r an d s a m s s a a ss th e cold, bring out with l o t t rtling cle rne s an d s n es n s a o s n white temple hri , flingi g h d w of i ky d s s a s a n ss an . su o c bl ck e here there The tep , u lly rowd ar e n ow s sav an d n ed, de erted, e where here there the ti y ’ r ay of some hermit s lamp i s seen glimmerin g i n som e a co r n er m a a s m m n as d rk , or it y be th t from o e o tery or tem ple c ome s the sou nd of weird music or chanting tel f s a ling o peci l vigils being kept by devoted worshippers. Occasion ally religious festivals ar e held on the river at n s r a s r a i s night, whe the u f ce of the t e m covered with a s an d a s a a an d u a bo t b rge , brilli ntly decor ted ill min ted with coloured lam p s an d filled to overflowing with r ss su s e s brigh tly d e ed plea re e ker .

I N E! D .

' ' e Gh at Gan l An na Pl u n atem pl ga. M ah a Ar h al Kangu ra m osq u e Gh ou sla H B akari ya Ku nd an u m an n h tem le Janki B ar ri . Ga es p B arn a Sangam Ki dar B h ai r ou ath tem pl e Laksh m an B ala

B rass ware Lalft M i sr

B r i ddhli al tem ple Lali ta

B u ddhi sti c r em ai n s M xi dh o B ai

Ch aran a Padu ka M ani kar n i ka

’ Ch oi t Si n gh s R ebelli o n Man m an di r

' M ar s Man sa r w r C h u r ch , St . y a ’ C o w T em le see n na l u rn zi Maslni n p , A Dai lbbyeswar tem ple D au dp ti u tem ple Dh ar m R fl p D u ffer i n B ri dge

u r a u n d see M on ke tem le D g K , y p

E xcu r si on s

Ganj Sh ahi d M osq u e

Gau ri u nd see Ki dar Gh at Ra m andi r K , j

Gh at nes! ar Ré ra eswar i , Ag j j Ah lya B ai Ram Assi Sangam Rana M ah al B ach ra] Sau kata

B aji Rao Sci n di a

n m B arna Sa ga . Sh i véla

B rah m a Si tala

B u r ni ng or Ju lsai n Som eswar

Ch au ki Triloch an

Ch au sath i Tu lsx

Golden Tem ple Dasaswam edh Gvan B api c l l ' Du rgot M osq u e

Gi l Hackne car r i a es i r e of y g , H 84

’ Jai u tem ple ! u een s College al Ku see Dand au Ra Ghat Plateau K p , p ] Kam esh war tem ple Ram N agar Fort adar nath tem le Sti kh i B iné ak tem l K p , y p e Lat B hai r o Sani char tem ple Lolarik Ku au Si m ath ’ M ani karni kaKu nd Serpents Well

Mi nar ets Th e m all - ox tem l , S p p e Mi ssi onary Soci eti es Town Hall W M onkey tem ple arr en H asti ngs i n B enares W ’ N ag Ku au azi r Ali s Revolt N spanless tem ple Well of Fate

O ser vator Th e Well of nowled e see G u b y , K g , yfi Panch osi Road B a l K p . Pi sach Mochan tank 85

RAT OF HIR OF HAC K Y ARR A ES E N E C I GES .

1 F r s . a e by ti m e wi thi n th e li m i ts of B en ar es M u ni ci ali t and Can to m e p y n n ts.

Fi r st a s Cl s . R . . P A . For first hou r or fraction of an 0 12 0 For every su bsequen t hour u p to 3 0 6 0

Over 3 hours for each hour 0 4 0

Secon d Cl ass.

For the first hour or fraction of an hou r For every subsequen t hour or frac tion of an hour up to 5 For a day of 9 hours

2 eci a l r ates between cer ta n s . Sp i p oi n t

1st class. From Can ton m ent an d Civil Stati on to Raj Ghat an d vice versa 0 10 0 to Har r owah an d vice versa 1 0 0 to Sarn ath an d back 2 0 0

- h all b ch ar ed at half h e a ove ra r vi de N . B Retu r n far es s e t tes o d . g b m m en ce wi thi n on e h u r fr om th e ti m arri val th e r etu rn jou r n ey b e co d o e 0 , . u t i f th e s n r overste s th e sai d h ou r addi ti onal rates b ti m e m a b pa se e p , y y b e ch arged for t 6 fu rth er peri od to th e com m encem ent of th e retu r n

Jou rney .