Meet the 2009-2010 Pia Fellows

Home , Living the Dream (House), Pia (horse)

194 Nassau Street PACIFIC Suite 212 Princeton, NJ 08542 Phone: (609) 258 3657 [email protected] www.princeton.edu/~pia Newsletter of PrincetonBRIDGES in Asia Spring 2009 Meet the 2009-2010 PiA Fellows

We are delighted to introduce year of service and under- you to the 2009-2010 Prince- standing how their time with ton in Asia fellows. This year, PiA will fit with their larger we selected 155 people (141 goals, both as professionals full-year fellows, 14 summer and as global citizens. We interns) from the most robust would like to share with you a applicant pool to date. And few of their thoughts from ap- those selected make us real- plication essays PiA received ize, even more than before, this year. that if we alumni applied to “As the bus pulled away and PiA today, we would never the other passengers scattered, get in. The candidates come the old woman I befriended to us from over 110 univer- told me to wait. Sheikh Sulei- sities and colleges in North man, the religious leader of America and Europe and the village and my new boss, bring with them incredible PiA 2008 teaching fellows in Nan, Thailand getting their last licks would come to collect me talents, a desire to learn, and before handing over their posts to their eager successors. Karen Bailey, soon. Reminding me one more an unmatched commitment to Helena Minchew, and Kelly Harper (from left to right). time that I was not to speak service. This year’s formida- to men, she kissed me on the ble group encompasses a former Buddhist PiA Grows while the Economy Slows cheek and left. It as my first day in the Jor- monk, an Italian chef, a student fluent in The number of applicants to PiA grew danian village that was to be my home for five languages, artists, cartographers, and nearly 20% this year, due not only to word the next two years and standing alone in the a farm girl from Canada whose cover let- of mouth from current fellows and alumni deserted bus station, I wondered what I had ter promises she can castrate a bull calf if but also to the slowdown in our economy. gotten myself into. Two years later, I found necessary. Some candidates have traveled With fewer banking and consulting jobs myself standing in the same bus station but to six of seven continents while others have available to recent graduates, young people under very different circumstances. I was never left the comforts of home, but all are are re-thinking their post-graduate options. leaving the village. I left my village felling eager to have their worldview completely Many are much more open to traversing the like I could do anything. That feeling has altered. This is the time of year we love the less-traveled paths and exploring opportu- yet to go away.” most – the opportunity to meet one of the nities that will help them grow beyond the Bess Nuland, Dili, Timor-Leste most incredible groups of young, inspiring tradition and comfort of the lives they have people around is one of the most rewarding known. Our fellows have put much careful “I hope with all of my heart that I am pre- aspects of working at PiA. thought into their decisions – discovering sented with an opportunity to work with

their true motivations for wanting to do a (continued on page 2) Meet the 2009-2010 PiA Fellows (continued) young children next year. I think that the original goal has shifted and instead I will Opening the Singapore Field Office hardest part of living in any of these coun- shape the affairs of something far more PiA will be opening a PiA field office in tries may also be what makes living in valuable, the minds of individuals.” Singapore in July 2009. PiA Deputy Direc- them incredible. I want to be exposed to Larry Graham, China tor Leslie Medema drew the lucky fortune different ways of life and people with dif- “I believe that experience is the most cru- and will be on the ground soon to establish ferent priorities, faiths, and daily lives. I cial construct of one’s identity and thought the office infrastructure. The goals of the would be lying if I said I didn’t have any process. A person who has broader experi- PiA field office are to: fears. I am not entirely sure what it is that ences thinks across a wider plain and de- I’m looking for or if what I’m looking for 1. Assist in health and safety emergencies velops an ability to address and solve so- can be described in words. What I do know in real time cial problems at a more natural and holistic is that I need to see the world. I need to see 2. Enhance PiA’s impact through support level. On a personal level, I hope that my the good, the bad, the ugly, the weird and of current fellows, including on-site basic assumptions and values will be chal- the beautiful.” training and professional development lenged and expanded through the experi- Samantha O’Hara, Yakage, Japan 3. Expand PiA’s reach by taking advantage ence. Although, I would like to think that I (elementary school teacher) of new initiatives and placement am a global and open-minded thinker, my opportunities quickly and “I have always been involved in volunteer- experience in cultures truly different from comprehensively ing and teaching underprivileged students my own is limited. For this reason, I am 4. Strengthen relationships in the region in the United States, Jamaica and Belize very excited at the possibility to immerse and gather regional alumni more often and to give to the children the same oppor- myself in traditions, foods and rituals dif- 5. Serve as host and guide to Singapore’s tunities for education that I was afforded. ferent from my own.” best Hawker Centers for all visiting But until a year and a half ago I expected Matt Kuzio, Ulaan Baatar, Mongolia guests. Please visit soon! to graduate with an accounting degree. My

Let’s Face It Times are tougher than rush hour in Tokyo…

Luckily, the Tiger Baron Foundation has pledged up to $50,000 to match any donations made to PiA before June 30, 2009. Our goal: increased participation from all corners of the PiA network.

You can provide the spark we need during the economic slowdown – and help PiA make a powerful statement about the strength of our network, even How to Donate: in difficult times. Online: www.princeton.edu/~pia Mail: 194 Nassau Street, Suite 212 If you never thought your humble yuan, Princeton, NJ 08542 yen, or rupees would make much of an Phone: (609) 258-3657 impact, this is your chance to help us PiA summer intern alumna and current PiA PiA is a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization, take advantage of this remarkable fellow Lisa Kelley lights a lantern with a and all gifts are tax-deductible to the full member of the Jishou community in Hunan extent allowed by law. opportunity to light our FIRE! Province, China.

[ 2 ] Introducing PiA’s new Director of Alumni Relations: Megan McGowan

To paraphrase one high-profile Princeton of culture, tourism, or even natural beauty; At the end of my PiA year, I returned to alumnus: there are known knowns – the telling someone in Bangkok that you’re liv- New York and joined a financial services things we know we know. There are also ing in Khon Kaen is something like telling consulting firm (apparently I have a knack known unknowns; that is to say we know a New Yorker that you traveled halfway for putting myself in situations I know I there are some things we do not know. But around the world to spend a year in the know nothing about). But to enhance my there are also unknown unknowns – the U.S., and you decided to settle in Brook- connection with Asia and PiA, I volun- ones we didn’t know we didn’t know. ings, South Dakota (sorry Leslie and Kai). teered to help plan last year’s Lunar New Surely, there must’ve been some mistake. Year Benefit at the Rubin Museum in New Funny how those unknown unknowns can I was FUN – didn’t Anastasia know I was York, and I was much more engaged and change everything. fun? Why didn’t they send me somewhere excited about the work I was doing for PiA fun? than for my “actual” job. I had caught the PiA bug. Looking around the room at my But lest our alums first Annual Dinner after returning from from the Mount Rush- the field, I realized that like the University, more State protest, I PiA’s alumni network is its most valuable admit that I was im- unknown unknown. Like high school stu- mediately and unex- dents applying to Princeton, new PiA fel- pectedly won over by lows cannot imagine that hidden behind the Thai heartland. this incredible experience is a lifetime of From the moment I connections to amazingly talented, engag- touched down, my ing, hilarious people. experience moved sol- idly into the realm of I’m extremely excited to come on board as Director of Alumni Relations, joining Megan samples Burmese cuisine with new friends in Mandalay. unknown unknowns – things I could have the most fun and inspiring coworkers I never anticipated. I fell in love with teach- could’ve asked for. I’m hoping to find cre- My PiA journey began with what I knew ing, the absurdly hot weather, the freakish ative and meaningful ways to broaden our I didn’t know: namely, anything about hospitality of the Land of Smiles, the un- already strong network of alumni, family, Asia. Senior year I found myself about to imaginably spicy cuisine (in a country of and friends, both in the Princeton area and become a college graduate without even fiery food, Isaan wins the prize for most around the world. I’m splitting my time be- the faintest clue what was up with that lip-numbing). I traveled to places I had no tween the Princeton office and various wifi “eastern” continent (I was a religion major idea I was dying to see – temples in Angkor hotspots in New York City, so please let me and took my only Buddhism course senior Wat, tiny Laos towns on the Mekong, the know if you find yourself in either area and spring), and like many of us claiming that summit of Mt. Kinabalu at sunrise. I also I would love to catch up, and I look for- our education was “in the service of all na- couldn’t have known that when my hair- ward to meeting many more of you in the tions,” I found this deeply troubling. I put dresser abruptly decided to chop off and coming months – to share stories, Singhas, myself entirely into the very capable hands donate my long hair right before I left for and your ideas for the future of PiA. of PiA – I remember distinctly telling An- Thailand, she was setting me up for months astasia, “Send me anywhere – I’ll literally And if you live in Brookings, get your of hilarious gender ambiguity – everything do anything,” – a statement which, now guest room ready; if Khon Kaen taught me from Burmese villagers unabashedly ask- that I know her better, verges on terrifying. anything, it’s that I don’t even know how ing whether I was a man or a woman, to Several heart-to-hearts and a few rounds of much I’ll love it there. students dubbing me the “handsomest” inoculations later, I found myself teaching Megan McGowan, teacher in the department. Oddly, this didn’t English at Khon Kaen University in north- PiA Khon Kaen, Thailand ’06-’07, bother me in the slightest; it was at once so eastern Thailand. (new) Director of Alumni bizarre and benevolent that I couldn’t help Relations & Thailand As the only major city in the economically but be amused and flattered (hey, handsom- Program Director impoverished Isaan region of Thailand, est isn’t half bad – I’ll take it over boringest Khon Kaen isn’t exactly a thriving center any day!). [ 3 ] Asia Trip

When the cat is away, the mice will play... or so the saying goes. But what better way for this mouse to justify a five-week trip to Asia than to invite the cat to come along. This fall I had the pleasure of being joined on the annual Asia trip by the President of Princeton in Asia’s Board of Trustees, Margaret Cannella (’73.) The annual Asia trip provides an opportunity for PiA leadership to assess sites, touch base with partner organizations, and see firsthand the impact PiA fellows can make, in the communities in which they live and learn. Overall, the PiA team visited 39 cities in 14 countries; touched base with 109 fellows, and dozens of partners and safety advisors; and toasted PiA with 110 friends and alumni who turned out for PiA alumni events in Singapore, Beijing, Hong Kong, New Delhi, and Bangkok. Margaret joined us in 8 cities in 5 countries, bringing a wealth of knowledge, contacts, and perspective to assessing new sites, advising fellows and better serving our partner institutions. Her presence lent gravitas in the meetings and sent a very strong message about the engagement and level of support PiA receives from its Trustees. We had a fabulous trip and were both very grateful for the opportunity to experience Asia through the eyes of our fellows. Let the record also reflect that Margaret made her way through Asia PiA-style – eating at local food stalls, riding in rick-shaws, crooning late-night karaoke, and putting the nickname “five-star Cannella” to shame. PiA is lucky to have such committed Trustees, willing to donate significant time and effort to help us build and strengthen our program in Asia, and I am lucky to have such bosses. I look forward to hosting more PiA trustees and friends in Asia. Tremendous thanks to Margaret.

Anastasia Vrachnos, Executive Director

I had the pleasure of accompanying Anas- self in 1972 and 1973 in Japan, where I es where they are working provided us ex- tasia Vrachnos, Executive Director, Leslie taught English. I have been a supporter for traordinary feedback on their performance. Medema, Deputy Director, and Kai Even- many years, and I became a board mem- Their managers talked about their ability son, Program Director, on their annual trip ber in 1999. More recently, I have had the to think critically, their dedication to their to visit Princeton in Asia fellows, our busi- pleasure of serving as President of the PiA work, and their immersion in the local cul- ness partners, our safety advisors, and our Board of Trustees. All the while I have kept ture. They talked about the fellows not just many friends and alumni in Asia. I tagged in touch with Asia by traveling extensively becoming members but also leaders in their along on the early part of their month-long throughout the region as an investment respective workplaces. And every employ- odyssey, visiting Bangkok, Hanoi, Ho Chi banker and living in Hong Kong for five er talked about their hard work and the long Minh City, the Mekong Delta, Banda Aceh years. hours spent on the job. We chuckled when (Indonesia), Singapore, and Delhi and one of our fellows summed up his life in Although I have been involved with PiA for spending time with the fellows. Singapore by saying, “I go to bed earlier over thirty years, this was the first time in than my parents!” I saw him at a party the My association with Princeton in Asia has several decades that I have had the chance following evening, so I was reassured that lasted many decades. I was a fellow my- to see so many PiA fellows “in action and he was also having a social life! on location.” What a great experience and one that I was especially impressed by the complex would make us all so proud! level of work being done throughout Asia I wanted to share with our in different milieus: alumni and friends some of • At a community college in Vietnam, two the extraordinary things our fellows taught English for 20 hours each fellows are doing. week then spent evenings volunteering at You will be very proud to a local orphanage in a program begun by a know that each and every former PiA fellow. one of our partners, from • At a business in Bangkok, two fellows the universities and col- were working on an investment proposal leges where our fellows are for a significant environmental project in teaching to the NGOs, news China with the European principal behind Margaret with PiA fellows Annie Preis and Helen Smith in front organizations and business- this project. of Great Mosque Baiturrahman in Banda Aceh, Indonesia.

[ 4 ] Asia Trip (continued)

• In Singapore, seven fellows teach made our meetings – even in the face of at a college level, while seven more Bangkok traffic. They arranged wonder- are sponsored by the Ministry of ful festivities and took us to delicious lo- Education to teach at secondary cal meals at food stalls. We went out to a schools. Vietnamese Czech restaurant with the fellows in Hanoi and watched plates breaking • In Aceh, Indonesia where the 2004 in a restaurant ritual with our fellows in Ho tsunami killed 100,000 people, our Chi Minh City. And we attended wonderful fellows are working on post-conflict parties with Princeton in Asia’s extended resolution, public health issues, and family, including our many safety advisors, continuation of the peace process in alumni, and friends in Delhi, Singapore, Margaret in the newsroom with Mr. Phuc, Editor a tsunami-torn city. and Bangkok. of the Vietnam News. And those are just a handful of the • In Hanoi, one of our fellows is working at We should all be proud of the contributions 72 communities in 18 Asian coun- an NGO whose goal is to ensure that head the fellows are making to their local com- tries where our fellows are having an im- injuries from motorcycle accidents are munities, the level of cultural immersion pact. As I met more fellows each day dur- eliminated. This NGO promotes the sale of they’ve reached, and their great on-the- ing the trip, it became clear to me that they colorful helmets to bikers of all ages, trying job performance. We are grateful for their too are gaining the kind of first-time work- at the same time to dispel many of the lo- hard work, commitment to service, and place experience that will provide an ex- cal myths around the negatives of children dedication to their communities and ours. traordinary foundation for the rest of their wearing helmets (namely that wearing a I am confident that they, for their part, will careers, whatever they do and wherever heavy helmet can stunt a child’s growth). If come back home with great new wisdom they choose to live. you have witnessed the number of motor- and perspective to share with their families cycles in Hanoi and throughout Southeast Throughout the trip, our fellows were in- and friends. Asia, you understand just how critical this credibly gracious hosts to all of us. They Margaret Cannella ’73 goal is! picked us up at airports and ensured we President, Princeton in Asia Board of Trustees

PiA 2nd Year Fellows: Voices from the Field A distinctive aspect of the PiA fellowship is the option to stay a second year. The number of fellows choosing to stay with PiA or on their own in Asia grows every year. We keep hearing about the added value these seasoned veterans bring to their organizations through their language abilities and cultural sensitivity. And a 2nd year allows PiAers to fully acquire language fluency and to connect more deeply with their communities. As you can guess, I’m really enjoying the We’re currently teaching a lot of pronun- Michael’s hard work, this has become work. I’ve decided to continue being Asian ciation classes, so I’ve been dreaming about a great resource for people working on for awhile. After all, my colleagues are put “ship or sheep,” “cheap or jeep.” All in all a China’s environmental issues. to shame by my superior chopstick and lot of fun though. I was recently on a Viet- Alex Wang, Executive Director chili-eating skills. I went to the Singa- namese cooking show. My student and I made Natural Resources Defense Council pore American School last weekend (with it up to Ho Chi Minh City to do the taping this Mentor to 2nd year fellow Michael my track & field kids), and they said I say past weekend. Pretty crazy being on the TV Zhang Beijing, China “can” and “wah lau” way too much. Scary, set, my student was utterly star struck meeting right? But I’m loving the experience here, all the “famous and lovely hosts. And I had and I’m staying on. to go into the makeup room prior to taping...I Kurt Kuehne came out looking pretty clownish (nothing Beginning his 2nd year in Singapore like fluorescent pink lipstick). Ministry of Education, Cat Peff, Finishing her 2nd year Singapore ’07-’10 in Vietnam Rach Gia, Vietnam ’07-’09 Things are going great here in Rach Gia. Michael has become an indispensible part Just finishing up the kite flying season, and of our team and is carrying his weight on a the rainy season is about to start. On a per- daily blog we put out on China’s environmen- sonal note, teaching has been going well. tal issues (www.greenlaw.org.cn). Thanks to 2nd year PiA Fellow, Sam Grant ’08 Mongolia, ’09 Cambodia plays the Navaho Flute with Matjargal, the horse riding harmonica man from Hustai, Mongolia.

[ 5 ] Remembering David Dodge

On January 20, 2009, the Princeton in Asia community lost a treasured friend with the passing of David Stuart Dodge. We will deeply miss David. He was an integral part of PiA’s history and continues to stand for our best ideals: the bridge-building and individual di- plomacy on which mutual understanding is built and the courage to pursue engagement in the world’s most challenging places. We can’t imagine a more dedicated, supportive, and erudite trustee, mentor, and friend. Our most sincere condolences to the Dodge family. We are comforted by the fact that David’s presence will always be alive and strong at PiA. Because David has meant so much to so many of us, we asked some of the PiA community share with us “their David Dodge,” and we have included some of their comments below. – Anastasia Vrachnos, Executive Director

“The opportunity to talk with David Dodge fered us unconditional support and advice ing secretary) and met every few months was always one of the highlights of Princ- and advocated on our behalf before the to have lunch and trade stories. It was al- eton in Asia board meetings in New York University administration. A true friend ways a relaxed and amusing time. At one (and the hours on NJ Transit, getting back who asked probing questions with a gentle lunch after David married Peggy, I offered to Princeton). David had a combination of smile, David inspired me with confidence my congratulations from the ‘Brothers of humanity, courtesy, and realism that is too and resolution. I shall truly miss him.” the Lodge of the Savvy Six.’ I called it rare in this world. I and many others – in Paula Chow, PiA Board of Trustees Happy Days: Beirut, in Princeton, and elsewhere – will “In June 1997 [when] I accepted the presi- There is a fine fellow named Dodge. miss him greatly. He was a boon to all who dency of the American University of Bei- Who can take the Hodge out of Podge. knew him.” Professor Lynn White, rut,… David Dodge was acting president. He is certainly not a Stodge; PiA Board of Trustees Over six months I met regularly with Da- glad he’s a member of our Lodge. vid, poring over files and documents, dis- His most fortuitous meeting, “We feel a particular sense of loss at Da- cussing at length personnel and other pend- with attractive Peggy Keating vid’s passing. He was an elegant presence ing issues. He was my tutor and my mentor, Became more than just a greeting- among us, a gentle man of soft voice, warm and, no surprise, he was great at both. Da- it happily led to troth pleading. handshake, and sagacious insights. In- vid had AUB in his blood, being the great Now the team of Keating and Dodge volved in many endeavors, he was particu- grandson of the founder... and AUB basked jointly take the Hodge out of Podge larly invested in PiA, where he was much in his love and service.” While neither of them is a Stodge- respected as one of our ‘Most Venerable’ John Waterbury, President, American and David doesn’t leave our Lodge. board members. David’s passing leaves a University of Beirut (1997-2008) void that cannot be filled.” David Dodge was a fine friend, with a “I used to meet David regularly for lunch Tom Pyle ’76, PiA Board of Trustees warm heart, a low-key way, and a strong – along with four others, we were part of interest and support of worthy causes. His “David Dodge has been a friend to me and a group that called ourselves the ‘Savvy departure is a great loss.” to Davis International Center ever since Six.’ We were all involved in fundrais- Joe Bolster we started the Center 34 years ago. He of- ing for the University (David was record-

David Dodge was born and raised in Beirut. The descendant of five generations of Princ- etonians, David graduated with the class of 1945 and earned a master’s degree in Near Eastern studies from the University in 1949. He joined the faculty of the American University of Beirut in 1979 and served on the Board of Trustees and as University President. David later returned to Princeton where he worked briefly as recording secretary of Princeton University before retiring. He lived in Princeton until January.

David was invited to join the PiA Board of Trustees by Bob “the Middle East is in Asia” At- more, and served as an active and beloved trustee for many years, developing posts in Lebanon, Egypt, and Jordan. His lifelong passion for hiking brought him to the peaks of the Matterhorn, Mt. Kilimanjaro, and – for his 70th birthday – the Himalayas. He is survived by his wife Peggy, as well as his sister, four children, and four grandchildren.

[ 6 ] Dispatch From North Korea

I remember when I got a phone call from technology left this lone city behind. tween a pumped up Cirque du Soleil and my mother last spring. She said “Before the Ringling Bros. circus, the Mass Games Equally intriguing was the sense of nor- you say no, just listen. Your crazy sister aims to highlight unity among the Korean malcy surrounding everything, as men and wants to go to North Korea. Do you want people. It does so not just with the themes women hurriedly went about their daily rou- to go with her?” “Sure,” I replied without of each act, but also by design: for the in- tine. I think I had unconsciously expected a moment’s hesitation. At the time, I didn’t dividual participant, the point is to blend in people to seem unhappy and to want better fully appreciate the exceptional decision I and contribute to a successful collective. It things. Instead I found a completely differ- had just made. North Korea seemed like is a massive display: 100,000 performers, ent scene (outwardly at least). I recognize just another random destination chosen by including 24,000 school children creating a that we were shown the best and brightest my Asia-loving sister Erin (China ’04). constantly changing “pixilated” backdrop, aspects of the country and that likely does and putting on one awesome and slightly not reflect a much different life for people nerve-racking show. in the smaller towns and countryside. But on the whole, seeing things with my own In the end, I did have that Hollywood-esque eyes helped to burst the bubble. “magic moment.” It came as I stood staring at a glass box, the frail old women in front Over the next four days, we were taken to of me holding hands and weeping before it. the main sights in and around Pyongyang Inside the box lay the body of Kim Il Sung, (those deemed appropriate for Americans, who fourteen years after his death is still that is). At the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) revered as the President and leader. What I and the 38th Parallel, we waved to South realized is this: We are all just people. We Korea from the North Korean side and had PiA sisters Erin Harper ’04 China and Kelly are all just people trying to make the most an enlightening conversation about Ameri- Harper ’08 Thailand meet up in North Korea. of our lives the best way we know how. can politics with a DPRK guard. Further And we are doing this in the context of the Flash-forward to September 30, 2008, north in the d e c i s i o n s when I found myself stepping off of a plane mountains, and actions at the airport in Pyongyang, North Korea we visited of those (or the Democratic People’s Republic of the Inter- above us. Korea as they prefer to be called). I stood n a t i o n a l We will not still, waiting for that magical moment you Friendship always agree see in the movies, the moment when you M u s e u m , with those realize the gravity of the situation at hand. a tribute in positions It didn’t come. Instead I found myself snap- to Kim Il of power, be ping a few quick pictures of the Pyongyang Sung and they leaders, airport sign and hurrying inside. Kim Jong Attending the Mass Games in Pyongyang. presidents, Il, that Before the trip, the tour company advised prime minis- houses ev- that to fully experience the DPRK, one ters, or kings, but the benefits and conse- ery gift they’ve ever received, including has to let Stockholm syndrome take over quences of their actions affect us all. a Michael Jordan-autographed basketball (at least to a small degree). I tried my best from Madeline Albright and silver platters The greatest gift from this trip was a re- to keep an open mind as I mulled over from Billy Graham. Apparently even indi- minder to always keep an open mind, to speeches about “evil American imperial- viduals can send gifts that will then be dis- take the time to see past the differences (no ists.” From the moment we left the airport, played. (Erin and I are still thinking about matter how stark), and to find those things I felt as though we had taken a wrong turn what we should send.) that unite you. Truly dive into the culture and ended up on a Hollywood film set in and appreciate its people. What you find the 1950s. The color palate of the city and The Mass Games – the very reason Ameri- may surprise you. cans are let into the DPRK for just a few people’s clothes was one of muted greens Kelly Harper and grays. Everything about Pyongyang weeks out of the year – were perhaps the Nan Elementary School looked outdated, as if the outside world most memorable part of our tour. An artis- Nan, Thailand ‘08-’09 flew by in a flurry of activity and modern tic, acrobatic show resembling a cross be-

[ 7 ] Namaste: A Report on PiA’s India Program

paper, and I tried to explain that wasn’t here as effectively as we can. what we were looking for…” We both The next morning, we were teaching our burst into giggles like middle school girls spoken English class and the students were who’d made a dirty joke. As we walked in the middle of discussing a trip that they back toward the school where we stay in a would go on if they could go anywhere in guesthouse on the school grounds, one of the world when the same peon from the the peons (akin to a kind of errand man and night before showed up in the doorway, yes, this is actually their official school ti- carrying four or five rolls of toilet paper in tle) who works at the high school and lives his arms. Cat Biddle in her Kadod classroom. She and facing the general store came running after Melissa have learned to tie their saris in 8 minutes flat. us, a packet of large paper napkins in hand. “Is this what you were looking for?” He asked us excitedly in Hindi, brandishing It’s not often that you have a whole village “Is this what you wanted?” He asked us in the toilet paper in such a way that all the helping you buy toilet paper. However, five Gujarati, trying to do his neighbor a favor. students began to laugh uncontrollably. weeks into our time in the small village of “Uh, no, but thanks” we replied and hur- Kadod, Gujarat, back when our language I could feel myself redden. “Uh, yes,” I said ried away as our giggles broke out again in skills were rusty at best and our presence and left the class as I took the prized toilet wave after wave. here was still a novelty which caused small paper over to the house. Following me, he children to follow us and women to sur- Having divined that no toilet paper was explained to me quickly in Hindi that he reptitiously whisper and giggle, this is the available in Kadod itself, we made loose position in which we found ourselves. The plans to take the local bus after school on supply that had been mysteriously materi- Saturday to see if Bardoli, an actual town alizing in our outdoor bathroom, at the behalf an hour away, might have what we hest of the principal of Kadod High School were looking for. We were too embarrassed where we teach English, had suddenly to ask the principal himself who, as our dried up, and after a few days of roughing next door neighbor and as our supervisor, it, we’d decided it was time to find a local has taken it upon himself to look after us. supplier. We already had a standing invitation each evening to watch Hindi serials with his Easier said than done of course. Toilet pa- family, his wife took care of us when we per is rarer than peanut butter around here. Melissa Ivins and Cat Biddle in Kadod village. had health problems, his daughter-in-law After walking the length of the short main who also teaches English at the school had had asked his neighbors on both sides what street of the village, called Bazaar (market) helped explain expectations for teachers we might be looking for and they had asked street because it is home to the stationery here, and we just couldn’t bear to bother their neighbors who may possibly have shop, the general store, the phone booth them about one more thing. Little did we called their relatives in the UK and then the and the village photocopy machine, we know that the local wheels had been set in chain after that gets a little fuzzy since my paused outside the general store, each of us motion to try and provide the strange new language skills were still very rudimentary looking at the other as if to say, “Uh, you American teachers with what they desired. at that time. do it.” Our responsibilities for the Foundation con- Our time in Kadod has been marked by Finally, Melissa took a breath and marched sist of teaching free classes before and after incidents like this one: in a place where in, leaving me to my cowardice. I peered school for the 9th grade students focusing five-year-old children can walk themselves inside the darkened shop and saw her on spoken English, as well as teaching 4th, home from school and locked doors are un- muddle through a half mime, half request 9th, and 11th grade English classes as staff heard of. We’ve had to give up any sem- for paper. Much conversational confusion teachers during the school day itself. This blance of privacy that we may have thought followed after which Melissa left the store being the first year of the post, life has pre- we were entitled to. However, we’ve gained grinning but toilet paper-less. dictably been an adventure as each day we much more in the way of integration into “They didn’t understand what I wanted,” discover more things about the school, our the community. she told me. “They showed me notebook students, and how to serve the community (continued on page 9)

[ 8 ] Vanakkam from Kodaikanal, Tamil Nadu

November 26, 2008. Scrambling to fin- monkeys in the yoga hall. And we learned This morning I rose pre-dawn to meditate ish semester reports and pack for a long- what yoga really is and practiced it. I met and do yoga, then met a friend for our planned trip across northern India. Half- incredible yogis from all over India and weekend ritual: cappuccinos and crois- way through my year on this mountaintop, the world, acquired a new approach to sants at the local bakery (the yogic diet I felt ambivalent not only about teaching, teaching, and fell in love with India. prevails 6 days out of 7). Later I went hunting “down the Budge” (Kodai’s but also about Kodaikanal, India, and Thinking back, I like to imagine that a shopping quarter) for plastic tubs, rolls what this year meant. The trip north was month at the ashram was in the cards ever of wire mesh, bamboo rods, balloons, and laden with expectations: six weeks to fall since PiA interviews last January. Our (Joy! A lucky find!) two crusty old- car in love with India – or not; six weeks to Swami, upon hearing how I came to join tons of wallpaper paste. KIS Elementary make or break my PiA experience. the course at the very last minute, said it is putting on Seussical (the musical) and Then the Mumbai Attacks happened, and was karma. Cards or karma or chance? for the next three weeks I’ll be drowning PiA placed a travel-ban on northern India. Who knows. PiA sends us to Asia with the in newspaper strips, balloons, chicken Five colleagues, my would-have-been advice to be flexible, willing to try new wire, paste, and 100 crazy papier ma- travel mates, boarded a train bound for things, and open-minded. The experienc- ché hats at various stages of production. Agra; I went home to cry and research es that make or break a year in Asia can’t Deeeeeeep inhale; long, slow, controlled plane tickets back to Canada for the va- be foreseen, contrived, or controlled: ex-haaaaaaaaaale…FUN. cation. Sense of adventure? Out the win- buses break down, diarrhea incapacitates, lessons flop, terrorists strike. Flummoxed dow. Adaptability? Completely depleted. Om Namah Sivaya plans lead to a life-changing experience But not quite. Thanks to a sequence of (If you want to read about life and to the glorious unexpected. coincidences, 36 hours later I was in an in Kodai and the ashram experience in more detail, please check out Flexible? In so many ways. Willing to try ashram, undergoing initiation rites for a http://aficusgrowsinindia.blogspot.com) month-long yoga teacher-training course. new things? Try nostril-flossing. Open- minded? Vedanta says the mind is an il- It was the most unexpected, challenging, Chrissy Macaulay lusion. PiA Kodaikanal International School enjoyable, and transformative experi- Art and French teacher ence of my life. No meat, coffee, sugar, As of today, a frighteningly short interval Tamil Nadu, India ’08-’09 spice, music, novel reading, napping, remains in our school year. Just 99 days alcohol, or Internet. No need to make a single decision. 28 days in heaven. Every day went like this: 5:15 wake-up. Medita- tion and chanting until 7:30. Chai break. (continued from page 8) 2-hour yoga teaching practice. Food. After our classes are over in the evening, Karma yoga (i.e., scrubbing toilets). it’s customary for us to wander over to 1-hour Bhaghavad Gita lecture under the the local phone booth and gossip with the shade of a mango tree. Chai break. 2-hour neighborhood about community and world mind-blowing Vedantic philosophy lec- events or find ourselves in the home of a ture. 2-hour bone-breaking yoga practice. friend, passing the time by watching TV or Food. Study time. 90-minute meditation playing with their kids. The safety of living and chanting. 10:00 lights out. in such a closely knit community has meant Chrissy Macaulay tries try nostril-flossing. We breathed. Participated in elegant, that despite our relative isolation, we’ve mysterious pujas for Ganesh, Vishnu, never really felt alone. left to knock their socks off in the class- Shiva, and Durga the Divine Mother. We room. Being a first-semester teacher was Cat Biddle and Melissa Ivins learned to stand on our heads and floss our terrifying and exhausting; being a second Kadod High School nostrils (not at the same time). Chanted Gujarat, India ’08-’09 semester teacher, I am grounded in yoga, the entire ’Gita. Received mantra initia- more flexible, open-minded, and eager to tions and spiritual names. Got attacked by experiment, is exciting.

[ 9 ] Alumni Updates

Expanding PiA Families April showers bring... PiA babies. Brian daughter, Helena. Robin is now working as Vogt (Indonesia ’96), and his wife Laura an independent consultant, specializing in Congratulations to PiA Trustee Hilary welcomed a new little Vogt into the world. international education and loving it! Roxe (’97 Hong Kong, PiA’s first intern Maya Clare was born on April 17, weigh- with Time Asia) and her husband Christo- Fiona Havers (China ’97-’99) received ing in at 7 lbs 1 oz. and was 20 inches long. pher on the birth of their second child, a her MA in East Asian Studies from Harvard son, Kieran Christopher Thomaskutty. Ki- Caroline Carter (Korea ’04, Timor-Leste in 2002 and her MD from the University of eran was born March 29, 2009, weighing ’05) welcomed her son, Reid Carter Se- Washington in 2006. She is now a second in at a healthy 7 lbs, 3 oz and measuring queila, a healthy 8 pounds 4 ounces, 21 ¾ year internal medicine resident at Johns 20 inches. inches, on April 24. Hopkins in Baltimore. Melissa Tritter (Singapore ’02) tied the Sarah Butsch (Thailand ’06), a “tree hug- knot with Steve Paschell in June, and is ging Vermonter” is working for an envi- now “satisfying [her] wanderlust” in Swit- ronmental networking organization called zerland, where she is studying and working Green Drinks NYC. She’s also teaching at the University of St. Gallen. yoga on the side (namaste!) and leading a running group. Still Living the Dream in Asia After working in reproductive health and Mark Dunn (China ’98) has moved back HIV issues (largely in SE Asia), Justine to Asia. This time, Mark is stationed in Sass (Indonesia ’97) took a job at the Newborn Kieran Christopher, Thomaskutty Bangkok “where it’s warmer and the food UNESCO HQ in Paris. Justine lives with with mother Hilary Roxe, father is better.” her husband who works for the French Christopher and sister Ella. Ministry of Defense in Indonesia and Ma- Congratulations to Peter L. Jaeger (Japan laysia and her two sons Liam and Aidan. Congratulations to PiA Trustee Schuyler ’80), who has been promoted to the Head Roach Heuer (China ’96) and her husband of Futures and Options for Japan and Korea Tina Sung (Japan ’71) joined the Partner- Jared for the birth of their second child, at JPMorgan. Peter’s family relocated to ship for Public Service in October as Vice daughter Anne Casey Heuer. Anne was Tokyo in July after 11 years of being away, President for Government Transformation. born on November 9, 2008, and weighed and his children are adjusting to life there Andrew Turco (Summer of Service ’06, 6lbs, 5oz. despite having become native Londoners. Cambodia ’07) is working for a non-profit affiliated with NYC Parks Dept. and enjoy- PiA in the Working World ing the nexus of the fields of redevelop- Leif W. Haase (China ’88) is living in Cali- ment, architecture, and planning in NYC. fornia with his wife Leslie and daughter Ju- lia Margaret. Since 2007 Leif has worked PiAers Back in School as the Director of the California Program of Morgan Galland (Laos ’06-’08) finally the America Foundation, a think tank based made it out of Vientiane and is now a first- in Berkeley and Sacramento. year law student at Stanford, enjoying a Farook Ahmed (Korea ’04-’06) recently slightly faster pace of life. She is “happy finished his MA at Georgetown University, to be back in California but misses South and when he’s not helping PiA out with in- East Asia.” terviews at Princeton, he’s being granted Anne Casey Heuer PiA Alumna Stacey Tsibulsky (Malaysia nevw security clearances as a government ’06) returned home from Asia planning to contractor in the Washington D.C. area. apply for an Art History masters program. Michael Richardson (South Korea ’04) After surviving three Minnesota winters After staring at the applications a bit, Sta- is celebrating the birth of Caroline Sora in Minneapolis, Robin Matross Helms cey decided she wasn’t through with Asia Richardson, on February 6, 2009. Michael (China ’97) has moved back to Washing- yet and is now getting an MA in Contem- must be getting good at changing diapers ton, D.C. with her husband, Tom, and their porary Asian Studies in Amsterdam. by now.

[ 10 ] PiA alumna Heather Jackson captures Ironman World Championship Title

In October 2008, PiA Thailand alum to get in shape. I also made the Princeton I’m going to race as a professional next Heather Jackson finished first in her age hockey team do one as a preseason team year, which will be completely different. group for the Ironman Triathalon World activity/training session…not sure how I’m going to keep racing half-Ironmans and Championships in Hawaii. Begun in 1978 many people on the team were happy with Ironmans but I’m thinking of trying some and held annually in Hawaii, the race in- me for that one. That was all I had really cycling events and maybe trying for the cludes a 2.4 mile swim, 112 mile bike ride, done before PiA.” 2012 Olympics. I’ve always dreamed of and 26.2 mile run. We spoke to this for- going to the Olympics. It used to be 2006 I understand that, while completing mer captain of the Princeton Women’s Ice for ice hockey, but that didn’t happen, so your PiA post in Chiang Mai, you ran Hockey team recently about her win and maybe cycling. It’s definitely my best dis- your first Ironman race in Malaysia. her connection to PiA: cipline as I still have the leg muscles from Isn’t Southeast Asia supposed to be… hockey.” laidback? Was it harder to train while in Thailand? The Ironman is known for its catch- phrase motto: “Swim 2.4 miles! Bike 112 “When I got to Chiang Mai, which happens miles! Run 26.2 miles! Brag for the rest to be the best PiA post ever, my daily ac- of your life”. Which bestows better brag- tivities included teaching, but more so re- ging rights, PiA or Ironman? ally assimilating myself into Thai culture in a “variety” of ways. I started hanging out “PiA by far bestows better bragging rights. with the guys at the gym a lot. I didn’t re- The Ironman race was over in 10 hours. ally consider it hard to train there, although A relaxing swim, a scenic bike ride, and a I guess I didn’t really consider it ‘training’ quick jog. Done. In Southeast Asia I sur- at the time. I was just trying to stay some- vived numerous transport mishaps, various what in shape. The one thing I can remem- bouts of gastrointestinal issues, insane heat ber that was tough was the heat. It was SO waves followed by severe flooding, bar- hot over there that some days I felt like I tering over everything, blows to the head Heather Jackson competing in the Ironman couldn’t even move. Also, the track that I in Muay Thai kickboxing matches, and a World Championships in Hawaii. trained on was dirt, and so I just remember military coup that resulted in a couple of running in what felt like an oven as dirt and days of holidays.” The Ironman Triathalon World Cham- dust would fly up…and then I’d have to run pionships…no small feat, even for a PiA- back through it on the next lap.” Interview by Teresa Velez er. What motivated you to begin training PiA Yakage, Japan ’06-’07 for triathalons? You’ve won the world championship… with Heather Jackson what’s next? Chiang Mai, Thailand ’06-’07 “I did a few short (‘sprint’) distance triathlons in the summers while at Princeton “People keep saying that to me and it still after my parents started doing triathlons hasn’t really sunk in. I won it as an amateur;

PiA Needs Some Transportation!!

Our rickshaws have broken down in Princeton and we are looking for a way to transport our sacks of rice, chickens, goats, and 15 closest friends all at once. If you would be willing to donate your used PiA fellow Justin Jimenez (’08 The car to PiA we guarantee good Karma, our deepest Philippines) steps gratitude, and a tax-deductible receipt. up to cart around the PiA team.

[ 11 ] Princeton in Asia 194 Nassau St. Suite 212 Princeton, NJ 08542 www.princeton.edu/~pia

2009-2010 PiA Calendar May 15-18, 2009: PiA Orientation at Princeton University May 15, 2009: PiA Annual Dinner May 30, 2009: PiA Alumni Reception at Princeton Reunions

Annual Dinner May 18, 2009 @ 6pm

If you would like to RSVP for the Annual Dinner please call PiA at (609) 258-5358.