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? is RIFF What The riff International Film Festival International Winter is coming: Winter

The riff issue : The future of Icelandic cinema is in the air Issue five 2013 Tax & Duty Free Experience Iceland All of our shops and restaurants offer you Icelandic memories to take home. ÍSLENSKA /SIA.IS/FLE 63311 04/13

One of few airports in the world that is both tax and duty free — meaning up to 50% off city prices. Nearby Landmannalaugar 2 ı WOW is in the air TaxTax && DutyDuty FreeFree ExperienceExperience IcelandIceland AllAll ofof ourour shopsshops andand restaurantsrestaurants offeroffer youyou IcelandicIcelandic memoriesmemories toto taketake home.home. ÍSLENSKA /SIA.IS/FLE 63311 04/13 ÍSLENSKA /SIA.IS/FLE 63311 04/13

OneOne ofof fewfew airportsairports inin thethe worldworld thatthat isis bothboth taxtax andand dutyduty freefree —— meaningmeaning upup toto 50%50% offoff citycity prices.prices. NearbyNearby LandmannalaugarLandmannalaugar Issue five ı 3 Hello darkness my old friend … The fall is a time for contemplation and, at least in my case, a new beginning. It’s about getting the kids back to school, wiping the frost from the car windows, rejoicing in the autumn colors and dreading but still kind of looking forward to the darkest days of winter. It’s the time of year when we Icelanders rediscover that there are stars, suddenly remembering what a full moon looks like against a pitch black sky and that we might soon see the Northern Lights. Everything starts anew and after the quiet summer months, at the cultural front, the theaters open their doors again. This issue Reykjavík International Film Festival (RIFF) is our main topic but we couldn’t just leave it at that so we delved deeper into the magical world of Icelandic cinema and the big movie business that has been thriving here lately. But enough about us, how’ve you all been?

Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir, editor in chief [email protected] In this issue

6 A letter from the CEO 72 Out of bounds with Ásdís Artist Ásdís Sif Gunnarsdóttir, chosen to 8 This and that Reykjavík International present her video-art at RIFF will have the … mostly this same program shown at Hors Pistes in the Film Festival Centre Pompidou in Paris in January 2014. 12 What’s going on? Concerts, events, openings and all that.

16 Turning pages 42 What is RIFF? What we’ve been reading lately. 44 The future of Icelandic filmmaking 18 WOW moments We sat down with four new Icelandic direct­- Take a look at the winner of the 55 ors who all have their short films screening WOW moments. in the Icelandic short film category at RIFF, one of the most interesting aspects of the 20 25 years of Todmobile festival and the right venue for discover- Iceland’s icons of contemporary popular ing new talent. music are back in the studio and planning a Grand Concerto. 54 It takes at least a miracle or two Atli Bollason, producer of this year’s RIFF, 74 What, where, when? 24 Skálmöld’s reign of terror gave us his insight into how a film festival Select your own “must-see” list from the Get to know Iceland’s biggest metal act. becomes real. complete RIFF program. 26 Cool Kaleo 56 WOW picks Newly formed band Kaleo has been creating RIFF has such a broad selection of films this a lot of buzz lately. year so WOW air decided to help you choose by picking out their own “must-see” 76 Nature plays its part 38 How to bake … movies. The ravishing and peculiar landscape of … a traditional Icelandic Christmas cake. Iceland has inspired the works of artists and scientists for ages. 40 A true paradise for film enthusiasts Sometimes we just need a little escape from 80 From cult to culture our own reality and to get lost in the stories When it comes to Iceland’s short but blooming told on the silver screen. Bíó Paradís caters to history of filmmaking there is one name that is the eclectic film enthusiasts. likely to come up early: Friðrik Þór Friðriksson.

82 Where old is “in” The National Film Archive of Iceland promotes film culture at the old Bæjarbíó Cinema in Hafnarfjörður.­ 26 68 Dip in and experience the annual 84 Bringing balance to the business Swim-in Cinema Find out why three women have now created Have you ever watched a movie while in the their own production company. pool? Now’s your chance!

70 WOW! This movie is so deep! This year RIFF will offer a truly unique film experience, a special screening in a myster- ious opening in the ground.

4 ı WOW is in the air 86 WOW Cyclothon WOW Magazine staff The registration for WOW Cyclothon 2014 has already opened and first to sign up was Team Editor in chief: Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir Hjólalöggur (Cops on bikes). [email protected]

88 Run to the hills Assistant editor: Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir September is that time of the year when farmers head to the highlands to round up Design and layout: Ivan burkni / arnardalur.sf their sheep. [email protected]

92 Vatnajökull Region Contributing editors: Dísa Bjarnadóttir, Kristín Ýr Find out about the winter paradise in the Gunnarsdóttir, Jón Kristinn Snæhólm, Lilja Björk south-east of Iceland. Haraldsdóttir, Hjördís Erna Þorgeirsdóttir, Ditte Højgaard 94 Meet the WOW stars Proofreading: Paul Michael Herman WOW air proudly supports a bevy of artists, athletes and projects who all have the WOW autumn cities In-house photographers: Rakel Ósk Sigurðardóttir, WOW-factor. Ernir Eyjólfsson, Heiða Helgadóttir, Rafael Pinho, Kristinn Magnússon, Hákon Davíð Björnsson

© Birtíngur Publishing WOW autumn cities Lyngás 17 110 Fall in love with London 210 Garðabær Iceland 114 Paris – Intimately yours Tel: 00 354 515 5500 118 Brilliant Berlin Email: [email protected] 122 Get creative in Copenhagen Printing Oddi environmentally certified printing company All rights reserved. Reprinting, direct quoting or recapitulation 96 Heja Sverige! prohibited except with a written permit from publisher. See We’ve got something special to look forward companys legal protection and rates at www.birtingur.is. to as WOW air has announced flights to ERFISM HV ER M K Stockholm next summer. U I

118 Prentun: Oddi umhverfisvottuð prentsmiðja 141 776 100 A person of WOW PRENTGRIPUR Every issue we introduce one member of the WOW staff, and this time it’s Inga Þóra Ingadótt- ir who just happens to be one of the strong­- est members of the WOW cabin crew. Attention advertisers! Shouldn’t your firm be in our next issue? 100 Contact our advertising representatives and we’ll make it happen.

[email protected]

114

102 The slopes won’t bring you down 122 Austria is known for its excellent ski resorts and now’s the right time to book your winter vacation.

106 Land of beauty and awe The Kitzbühel Alps - Photographer Markus Mitterer’s greatest sources of inspiration.

126 Your WOW horoscope Check out what the stars have in store for you.

126 Are you bored? Get a pen and solve these sodokus.

130 The Traveling Inquisition We apprehended actor, director and story- teller Benedikt Erlingsson and got a few words from him.

Issue five ı 5 Dear guest,

elcome onboard WOW air. Tourism and travel to Iceland is fast becoming the largest industry in Iceland. This year about 850,000 people will visit Iceland and this number is expected to double in the coming years. All of us at WOW air are, of course, very excited about Wthis opportunity and also very grateful for the fantastic feedback we’ve received since our inauguration flight on May 31, 2012 to Paris. It’s been a tremendous ride ever since, and we’re just getting started!

From the beginning we have had 4 core objectives at WOW air

• To offer the lowest fares to and from Iceland • To be the most punctual airline in Iceland • To offer the newest airplanes in Iceland • To smile!

am very proud to say that this year we have been successful on all of the above. Clearly, our guests are taking notice as our number of pass­ Iengers from June to August this summer grew from 59,855 last year to 191,468 this year. Thanks to our great results and all the encouragement we have received so far we are very excited about our new destina- tions and anticipated growth next year. We have already announced Stockholm as a new destination and we will offer daily flights to North America starting next spring. Tourism is not the only fast growing industry in Iceland. Another very exciting one is the film industry. A long list of Hollywood stars can now be seen regularly around Iceland as the list of films and movies being shot here continues to grow. “Oblivion”, “Flags of our Fathers”, “The Secret life of Walter Mitty”, the adventurous “Game of Thrones” TV series and many more films and TV shows have been shot here, helping us show off our amazing landscapes and adventurous nature. We are celebrating the film industry in this issue of WOW magazine and the Reykjavík International Film Festival in particular. We are very proud to sponsor RIFF which is one of the biggest film festivals in Scandinavia. We have put together a WOW must-see list for RIFF and hope you’ll be pleased with the eight films we’ve recommended.

We look forward to seeing you again and hope you enjoy your ride!

Skúli Mogensen WOW air CEO and founder

6 ı WOW is in the air Explore Iceland on your own terms

My Way – perfect day tours With so much to see and do, for the independent traveller. why not rent a car and hit the road My Way is your own audio day tour consisting of in comfort and style with Budget? a suitable car for you and your friends together with an audio guide programmed into the GPS system. Sold in cooperation with Avis and Budget car rentals.

To book your own day tour • Visit the My Way website mywayiniceland.is • Contact Budget, tel. 562 6060. • Ask the hotel or next information centre to book it for you.

Tel. +354 562 6060 www.budget.is This and that Mainly this …

We need some warm clothes

moors and wrapped it up in the spirit of the all-Icelandic sailors. Made from 100% waxed cotton with zippers by YKK and corozo buttons, the jackets breathe well and repel water so they are excellent in Icelandic weather conditions. The Skútustaðir-jack- ets will last a lifetime only adding to their character with every use and good care.

Find out more about Farmers Market at www.farmers­market.is. Tripping out to the Northern Lights ust because summer is The Warm Baths & Cool utumn is moving with over doesn’t mean we Lights tour surprising speed through Jstop traveling around This tour is designed for AIceland and we want to Iceland, we only have to ad- those who wish to relax, eat stay on the warm side. Icelandic just to these new and surpris­ good food and enjoy the design label Farmers Market ing conditions and enjoy all hunt for the Northern Lights has the answer: these beautiful the gifts that darkness brings in the Icelandic countryside. waxed cotton jackets called us, especially the Northern “Skútustaðir”. Designed in Lights. These are the tours Both tours, and countless we here at WOW magazine others, are available at Iceland collaboration with British textile Excursions, www.icelandexcur­ manufacturer British Millerain, want to go on this winter: sions.is. Farmers Market drew inspiration from the Inuits and the Scottish The Glacier & Monster Truck Adventure – Northern Lights Tour This one starts like a normal guided bus trip but then you step of the bus and go on a “Monster Truck Adventure” on the Langjökull Glacier. This is a tour for those who seek to enhance the excite- ment of the Northern Lights.

every radio station in the coun- try, topping the charts wherev- Dog-crazy er it went and even bumping down Emiliana Torrini’s “Speed of dark”. And no wonder, the song is unbearably catchy and the lyrics have a philosophical tone such as: “I’m the happi- est, happiest, happiest dog in It’s official the world / they pat me every day and I’m loving it / I’m the happiest, happiest, happiest dog in the world / Life threw me a bone and I’m gonna his summer went to the chew on it”. dogs, literally as the song Tthat gripped the nation this summer was “Glaðasti hundur í heimi” (The happiest dog in the world). The song is a single from Dr. Gunni’s (singer/ songwriter/music know-it-all) new children album and is sung by Icelandic teenage sen- sation Friðrik Dór. This was the most popular song on almost Emiliana Torrini’s “Speed of dark.

8 ı WOW is in the air Emiliana Torrini’s “Speed of dark. This and that

Amiina’s lighthouse project

miina’s third album was recent- you can also watch their song “Perth” ly released and they sound so performed­­ in a lighthouse. Agood. The album is the result of the band’s concerts in various Ice- landic lighthouses and has a total of six songs. Amiina was formed by four young girls who, at the time, were all students in the Reykjavík College of Music and was originally a classical string quartet. Their first claim to fame was their collaboration with Sigur Rós but since then the band has added two new members and matured in their own style. Check out their website,­ www.amiina.com, where A sneak peek into Icelandic homes

Interior design and top of the world and dic homes with brilliant home maga­­zine “Hús money seemed almost photography. Iog híbýli” (Houses and of no consequence. homes),­­ is always visual- Then came 2009 when ly stunning, but for their the banks collapsed September issue they and following that the decided to do some­ painstakingly slow rise thing­­ different. The from the ashes. In this res­­ult is this amazing book you can easily book that features 45 see the trends moving Icelandic homes visited and evolving from year Photo: Sasha Peeleva in the years 2007-2013. to year and even if you To better orient you, don’t speak Icelandic Viking girl 2007 was the year this book will give you Icelanders were on good insight into Icelan- eet the IFBB Bikini Fitness World Champion 2013. Her name is Margrét Edda Gnarr and she’s the Mamazingly fit daughter of Jón Gnarr, the Mayor of Reykjavík. WOW air is proud to have sponsored Margrét “Give me blood” Edda, along with three other Icelandic contestants, who orwegian director Tommy Wirkola has been filming his went to Kiev, Ukraine, in mid-September to compete in next film here in Iceland this fall. He recently put up a the championships. Margrét is the first Icelander to ever Nvideo at Vimeo where he asks people to donate some hold this title and it means she can now apply to become blood. But it’s not actual blood Wirkola is wishing for. The film a professional within IFBB (The International Federation of he’s shooting is called Dead Snow: Red vs. Dead, a sequel BodyBuilding and Fitness). to horror movie Dead Snow. For the last scene Wirkola will need copious amounts of fake blood and what he really needs is some extra money to get it. On the lookout for career but recently she moved back something unique? to Iceland with her fiancé and their She’s back three year old son. “I always felt like a e it a housewarming only find them in Búsáhöld foreigner in the UK and I didn’t want present or a functional boutique in Kringlan inger/Songwriter Emilíana Torrini to become a foreigner in Iceland too. Bsouvenir these Ice- shopping mall, along with has released her fourth album, That’s why I decided to move back landic wooden boards are everything else you might S“Tookah”, stemming from her home.” probably just what you’re need for your kitchen. collaboration with producer Dan Carey. looking for. Handcrafted in “Tookah” follows in the footsteps of her Iceland from quality wood last album, the critically acclaimed “Me such as birch, ash, teak, and Armini”, released in 2008. Emilíana walnut and oak amongst says “Tookah” is a word she made up. others, no two boards are “It’s something that connects us to the same as they vary in everything­ and everybody. The short size and shape plus the moment of gratitude you experience character of the wood they when you’re not doing anything in are made from really shines particular, the moment of perfectness. through. They are ideal for Some call it a state of God. I call it laying out cheese, tapas, Tookah”. pizza or cold cuts and of Emilíana moved to the UK when she course, for chopping. You’ll was 20 years old to pursue her music

10 ı WOW is in the air Obtusa

When seeing is not believing

When WOW air’s CEO Skúli Mogensen first saw Obtusa by Venezuelan-American artist Rafael Barrios it was lying on the floor of a gallery. he aesthetics and three Obtusa is 4 m tall and appears both magic and humor. Obtusa tion of uprooting our convictions dimensional qualities to be put together from four conveys illusion and elusive- about what we believe we see. of the sculpture were three dimensional forms but ness and the viewer’s sense of Just take a drive by Höfðatorg Tnot lost on the avid art when viewed from the side it reality is distorted. As viewers and lay your eyes on this purple, col­lector so he bought the piece is just a centimeter thick. This move around the piece, they optical illusion. Get confounded which was then shown, along is why a round-about is such are tricked by subtle changes of and question your normal beliefs with eight other sculptures by a fitting site for the sculpture. light into seeing things that give about what is possible. Barrios, on Park Avenue, New Obtusa can now be viewed from an impressions which is both York, for a few months. When many different angles so people uncertain and open to interpre- Obtusa finally came to Iceland can see how the shapes change tation. it seemed that the best place to from different viewpoints. showcase it was in plain view Rafael Barrios (b. 1947) is inter- xperimenting with form and so Skúli decided to lend the nationally recognized for his art, and volume Rafael Barrios piece to the people of Reykjavík. and many art collections around Ecreates a territory where The unveiling of the artwork, on the world have bought his work. the laws of gravity seem not a round-about at Höfðatorg, was His use of stainless steel and to exist and objects rise freely Mayor of Reykjavík, Jón Gnarr, the start of this year’s Culture bright lacquered airplane paint over each other. His sculptures unveiled the sculpture at the start of Night on August 24. lends a transcendent feeling of manipu­late form with the inten- Reykjavík Culture Night.

Issue five ı 11 Iceland is happening – so happening, actually that we wouldn’t even have room for every event if we used the whole magazine to cover it. Here are the highlights for the next couple of months. And don´t forget the numerous pubs that offer live music every weekend, the art galleries that always have a show going, the movie theaters (we have subtitles not Icelandic voice-overs) and the restaurants that offer great food day and night.

widely performing in diverse locations and venues as well as co-producing various creations staged in several international networks. The company has toured all over Europe, China and U.S.A. IDC was founded in 1973 as the national dance company of Iceland and currently celebrates its 40th anniversary. The anni­­ versary year kicked off in April with the wildly popular evening “Walking Mad” by Johan Inger and “Ótta” by three dancers of the company. In May IDC teamed up with the Reykjavík Arts Festival, the Iceland October 5 Symph­ony Orchestra and the Iceland Aca­­ demy of Arts in creating “Dances in Eld- October 12 Rokkjötnar Festival borg” which was performed in the largest hall in Harpa. Need some fever for Take a look at one of the hardest festivals The last performance of the anniversary you Saturday night? of Iceland. It’s so hard you could compare year is “Episodes”, where two new pieces it to a diamond as it is compressed to are premiered. “Episodes” by Helena Jóns- Is Disco you guilty pleasure? Then don’t just one day of very hard rock ‘n’ roll in dóttir is a unique dance piece where older miss out on the Bee Gees tribute con- Kaplakriki. This is where you’ll meet all and younger generations of the Icelandic cert in October. the real metal heads of Iceland all in one dance tradition meet. The piece is as global When Australian brothers Barry, Mau- place. Put on your best black and some as it is Icelandic. It’s a homage to every rice and Robyn Gibb formed their little comfortable shoes and rock out to some dancer in the world, as well as the world in band in 1958 they didn’t know they’d purebred Icelandic rock with bands like every dancer. soon be international celebrities. The Sól­­stafir, Dimma and Legend and the actu- “Sentimental, Again” by Jo Strømgren band was called the Bee Gees and is al legend … Bubbi Morthens himself. is the second piece of the evening. It is a now synonymous with the Disco era. nostalgic trip back to some of his earlier To celebrate the Bee Gees’ 55th birth- choreo­graphies. Creative moments, gall­­eries day some of the top vocalists in Iceland of characters, broken details from different­­ are getting together as a tribute to the contexts, and memories of long gone shows Gibb brothers in Harpa Concert Hall are merged together into this new piece. on October 12, and at the Hof Culture Don’t miss out on the Iceland Dance House in Akureyri on October 26. Company during your stay in Iceland. It’s a There’s no need to hide the heel tapp­ fantastic opportunity to see Icelandic stage ing and hip swaying, we all love it too. arts where language isn’t a factor.

October 17 October 11 – November 3 Surf-punk No language barriers garage-pop

Iceland Dance Company (IDC) is the natio­ ­­ nal dance company of Iceland. It consists grunge of dancers who all share a background in Harlem Bar is the place to be this night as Bleached conjure up the spirit of punk. classical and contemporary training while This LA band formed by sisters Jennifer and Jessie Clavin plays surf-punk garage- retaining a pronounced individuality. IDC pop girl-group grunge and they play it raw and hard guaranteed to make your ears thrives on the borders where different forc- ring. They’re one of the hottest things in LA these days and are following the release es collide, unite, and transform. Creating of their debut album called “Ride Your Heart” with a European tour. Their first stop with the energy of fusion IDC collaborates just happens to be the Harlem Bar, Reykjavík, Iceland. with diverse art forms. The company tours

12 ı WOW is in the air

November 25 They’re not so dire

Two years ago former Dire Straits mem- bers, along with hand selected world class musicians, came together in Royal Albert Hall to perform Dire Strait’s most popular

November 15 Photo: Silla Páls. Todmobile’s Grand October 18 Concerto songs. At the end of their performance people were in tears, standing and cheer- Jazz it up It’s been 25 years since legendary prog ing. This was obviously something they rock group Todmobile was founded so needed to do more of, and now they’re orgardætur (Daughters of the City) is their big annual concert is extra big this here, The Straits, playing in the Harpa trio of Iceland’s leading female vocal- year. You’ll be sorry if you miss it. Find Concert Hall. Give your ears a present with Bists but it’s not just their singing that out more on pages 20-23. gems such as Sultans of Swing, Romeo we love. It’s their attitude, choice of songs Tickets available at midi.is and harpa.is. and Juliet, Tunnel of Love, Money for Noth- and general sassiness. The Daughters of ing … the list goes on. the City will be jazzing it up in Akureyri at Græni hatturinn on October 18. If you’re unable to attend you will just have to wait for their legendary Christmas gigs at Café Rosenberg in Reykjavík. They’ll be there every weekday except Fridays from De- cember 3 to December 19.

At your service- Anywhere- Anytime

October 24 November 16 Laugh out loud Lay Low in Akureyri November 28 - 30 Controversial stand-up comedian Pablo Lay Low is the stage name of awesome Francisco is one of the most popular com- singer and songwriter Lovísa Elísabet A symphonic reign edy acts in the world and he’s starting his whose melodic and tranquil singing style “Live and Kickin” tour in Reykjavík. They has captured the nation. Prepare to be of terror say laughter will lengthen your lifespan, mesmerized at the Hof Culture House in Legendary Icelandic metal band Skálmöld so be prepared to live a lot longer after a Akureyri where Lay Low will stop by to collaborates with the Iceland Symphony Or- night of Pablo’s twisted humor in Harpa perform her new material along with her chestra to make the most awesome sounds Concert Hall. best known hits. ever made. Find out more on page 24.

November 7-11 and November 13-17 A crafty affair Special sightseeing taxi tours The Design and Craft Fair at Reykjavík City Hall pro­ We specialize in personalized sightseeing day trips vides a unique opportunity to get a glimpse of the to the natural wonders of Iceland many crafts and design studios in Iceland, all under one roof. The fair has been held annually since 2006 to – for small groups of 4-8 persons. great acclaim and showcases the very best and most original designers in the country. All major credit cards accepted by the driver. 14 ı WOW is in the air To book in advance: tel:+354 588 5522 or on www.hreyfill.is E-mail: tour@hreyfill.is Clairvoyants! All December Do you know what’s happening long before it actually happens? Pink December Tell us all about the upcoming events Pink Iceland organizes and operates two that belong on these pages. We might LGBT festivals during the winter, Pink De- be able to squeeze them in. cember in, what do you know, December, [email protected] and Rainbow Reykjavík in early February. “We are organizing a series of events, big and small, for every single day in Decem- ber, giving people the freedom to come whenever suits them and plug into what­ ever is going on that day. This includes guided tours, museum and gallery visits, a Photo: Eyjólfur Már Thoroddsen dip in Reykjavik’s geothermal pools, shopp­ ing, live music, fantastic food, meeting lo- Sundays in December cals, partying, visiting natural wonders and hunting for the Northern Lights,” says Eva A very Icelandic María, one of the owners of Pink Iceland. Christmas For more information visit See the Christmas traditions of yore at Every Thursday www.pinkiceland.is. Árbæjarsafn (Arbaer Open Air Museum) Do the salsa in Reykjavík. The Christmas exhibition at Arbaer Museum has been very popular in Every Thursday night at 20:00, Thorvald- recent years and has become an estab- sen Bar in downtown Reykjavík gets even lished feature of the festive season in hotter when teachers and salsa enthusi- Reykjavík. Traditionally dressed Yule Lads asts from Salsa Iceland visit for an evening prowl around playing pranks, while visitors of steamy dancing. You don’t have to know can try their hand at traditional crafts, sing anything about salsa, just go there and let Yuletide songs, taste traditional holiday dish- them show you how it’s done. A dancing es and take a ride in a horse-drawn carriage. partner is also optional. They have sea- The museum is open with guided tours soned dancers (taxis) in stock just waiting only, everyday except Sundays at 1:00 to move you around the floor. The best pm. Sundays in December have a special part … it’s free! Christmas program from 1:00-5:00 pm.

At your service- Anywhere- Anytime

Special sightseeing taxi tours We specialize in personalized sightseeing day trips to the natural wonders of Iceland – for small groups of 4-8 persons.

All major credit cards accepted by the driver. To book in advance: tel:+354 588 5522 or on www.hreyfill.is E-mail: tour@hreyfill.is Issue five ı 15 g pag in es n r u

T

k o

o B n a c k k o i o n t h e b

Book of the month: to her. The deaf-mute child gives A little bit about the author Butterflies in November her a fresh perspective on these Audur Ava Olafsdottir was born in by Audur Ava Olafsdottir things seeing as sign is one of the Iceland in 1958, studied art history Published November 7, 2013 few languages this quirky but hard in Paris and has lectured in History

by Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir headed woman doesn’t speak. of Art at the University of Iceland. If good literature is your thing, Her earlier novel, The Green- et me just say first how best friend’s deaf-mute son is Butterflies in November belongs house (2007), won the DV Culture refreshing it was to get thrust into her reluctant care. But on your nightstand. This is a story Award for literature and was an actual book in my when a shared lottery ticket nets for slow-reading, beautifully writt­ nominated for the Nordic Council hands. After 2 years of the two of them over 40 million en and well translated. Literature Award. She currently Kindle/iPad reading I had kroner, she and the boy head off lives and works in Reykja­vik. Lalmost forgotten what it feels like on a road trip across Iceland, taking to actually turn a page. I could in cucumber-farming­ hotels, dead even get back to my old habit of sheep, and any number of her exes, What else have we been reading? writing little not­es on the pages, a desperate for one more chance.

feature, that in my opinion, should As is often the case with road turning to other things ship develops Josef be added to all eBooks. I want to trip-stories they are tales of instead of turn­­ing the confesses a long-buried state, for the record, that I read a growth and learning. The storytell­­ pages, the story a bit and shameful secret lot of trashy fiction and in this age er goes on a trip to escape but too long and dragged and asks Sage for an out to hold my interest. extraordinary favor. of fast writ­ing and fast reading, can’t help on gaining perspective That being said I This takes the reader to where every other housewife and understanding of herself and do like Dan Brown’s Sage’s grand­­mother’s her relationships along the way. descriptions of old tales of the Holocaust, cities and artworks, weaving an intricate And while she deemed herself you could really travel thread through the an unfit mother she acts very by his books and it novel with stories of motherly towards her helpless would make for a very unimaginable human compan­ion. The reader is given interesting weekend cruelty but also human Inferno get-away. Brown also compassion. ample room for his own inter- by Dan Brown has a knack for pointing pretations, a rare option, and the out interesting facts fastest conclusion he can reach is I was really looking that concern us all and that the storyteller is often telling for­ward to this book as he does not fail here in sym­bology professor, that regard, drawing up only half the actual story or that Robert Langdon, has horrifying images of the she’s making things up along been a kind of favorite globes over-population the way. That’s what makes the of mine for a long time. problem. story such an interesting read and Here the story revolves If you start reading around Dante’s Divine this book I recommend gets you to turn the pages, trying Comedy, as one could finishing it but if Robert to read between the lines and have guessed by the Langdon is a stranger interpret the text. Well, that and the title, and Langdon is to you, Inferno is not authors refreshing sense of humor. once again pro­­pell­ed the right place for first into a quest leading acquaintances. I tend to generally Take special note of the husbands him to various fa­mous shy away from stor­ies, rant while he is telling his wife why locations that all happ­ movies or news involv­ can publish a semi-pornographic he wants a divorce with sentences en to hold a symbolic The Storyteller ing the Holocaust (or significance and hidden WWII in general) as I novel online and make money like “All you’ve got to do is touch by Jodi Picoult meanings. Dan Brown live in a fantasy bubble off of it, reading real literature a light switch and the bulb blows”, has usually done a This story tells of Sage of my own, preferring felt almost like a novelty to me. “Your hair is shorter than mine” and great job of introduc- Singer, a Jew­ish baker the horror of the books There was no rich and handsome most adeptly “Words, words, words, ing bits of art, history, who works nights and I read to be fiction from religion and science to shies away from human be­­ginning to end. Still I dominant exerting his power exactly, your entire life revolves­ his readers in a fun and inter­action as best she found myself drawn to over this story’s heroine. On the around the definition of words.” exciting way. can. Still grieving the this story. Drying tears contrary… But wait, I am getting The prose of the story is poetic His books have mostly death of her mot­her from my iPad as I read ahead of myself. Let’s begin at the and sometimes dreamlike. This been fast paced page she attends support along, I really could not turners where the teach- group meet­­ings where drag myself away from beginning. is a novel of text and language, ings never over­­powered she gets acquainted it. The Holo­­caust is a A recently divorced woman the storyteller even edits and the actual story. Inferno, with Josef Weber, an heavy subject but Jodi dreams of tropical holidays after proofs text for a living and she unfortunately, does not elder­ly man who begins Picoult, a best-selling being dumped twice in one day. ana­­lyzes and consciously corrects play to that beat. I felt stopping by at the novelist, handles it myself more and more bakery. As their friend- beautifully. Her plans are wrecked when her the grammar of people who talk

16 ı WOW is in the air www.dutyfree.is Prices may due to vary exchange rates. wines and 6Lof Icelandic beer. When you purchase 3Lof popular Italian Save more than €47.- city prices! off and 9 Lof Iceland‘s most awarded beer. When you purchase 1Lof our most popular liqueurs Save more than €60.- city prices! off of our most popular apératif, and 6Lof our most popular beer. When you purchase 1Lof asuper premium vodka, 1L Save more than €70.- city prices! off FreeDuty Arrival Store in Iceland This is how we do it at the ALLOWANCES THE FREE DUTY FOR CHEERS

CLASSIC

13-1216 – HVÍTA HÚSIÐ / SÍA One moment in time

We all have them from time to time, these truly WOW mo­ ments, and now over 2500 people have shared theirs at www.wow.is. Since early this summer WOW air has awarded two lucky participants each month with tickets to any of the WOW destinations. WOW moments is still going strong so it’s not too late to send in your WOW moment.

ast August, with a little help We’ve already started looking at from their Facebook friends, hotels and trying to get more girl- WOW air sel­­­ected 55 WOW friends to join us.” Lmoments and asked people to vote for their favorite. The three top WOW moments were awarded with two tickets each and to sweeten the deal one winner was selected from the group of voters and also got two tickets. Dominating at the polls, Third place Guðrún Lilja Ólafsdóttir, took first Alexandra Tómasdóttir sent in this picture of her and Bogi Rafn on a prize after she made a promise to romantic picnic by the Eiffel Tower. her friends that anyone who voted for her was invited to her “white tent” in the Westman Islands’ fam­ ous Þjóðhátíð Festival in August 2014 where she will serve them sand­­wiches, candy from the duty free store and souvenirs from Den- mark. “I think we were driving all Guðrún Lilja arrived to WOW air head­ quarters were she was presented our Facebook friends crazy during with her prize and a special cake. She the voting,” says Guðrún Lilja with a plans to take her friend to Copenhagen smile. “We’re going to Denmark to next year for the Eurovision Song see the Eurovision Song Contest. Competition.

The lucky winners: Hrefna winner of the voters prize, Guðrún, Alexandra og Þröstur who came in second with a brilliant WOW moment video. Due to some rather unfortunate technical difficulties Þrösturs video cannot be shown on the pages of WOW magazine but its available online.

“The three top WOW moments were awarded with two tickets each and to sweeten the deal one winner was selected from the group of voters and also got two tickets.” First place Guðrún Lilja and her childhood friend went to Paris for a Muse concert this summer. They’d heard about the WOW moments project and decided to dress up for a photo shoot by the Eiffel Tower. 18 ı WOW is in the air Photo: Sölvi Logason

Photo: Birta Rán Björgvinsdóttir

Photo: Rannveig J. Haraldsdóttir Photo: Dovilé Atutyté

Photo: Gísli Gíslason Photo: Sunneva Ómarsdóttir Issue five ı 19 25 years of Todmobile

Þorvaldur Bjarni Þorvaldsson is one of Iceland’s leading songwriters with over 300 published songs, six musicals and many national hits under his belt. As one of the founders of one of Iceland’s most popular rock group Todmobile, founded 25 years ago, he told WOW magazine the story of a young man’s quest for fame and recognition and of the people who influenced and inspired him. On the 15th of November he will take the stage in Eldborg (Harpa Concert Hall in Reykjavík) along with Todmobile and the world famous Jon Anderson, the original lead singer and songwriter of legendary band Yes, thus creating the most spectacular musical event in Iceland this year.

By Jón Kristinn Snæhólm Photos: Hákon Davíð Björnsson Iceland’s icons of contemporary popular music

t all started when I was 6 I really didn’t). I had actually be- their own choice to class I would classes there were times when I years old and my parents gun to listen to rather complex bring music like “Tarcus” by ELP, had to leave the classroom post- sent me to The Children’s­ music by then. My music teacher while my classmates brought haste to avoid being attacked by Academy of Music in Reyk- Áslaug found it interestingly popular­­ Icelandic children’s fed up listeners. I was brought javík. I liked the sound of amusing that whenever the music. After playing ELP’s “Prog- up listening to music by ELP, Ithe recorder all right (Ok, sorry students could bring music of solos” during those “free” music Roxy Music, King Grimson, David 20 ı WOW is in the air teacher, none other than Icelandic­ “Although my mind legend Eyþór Þorláks­­son, who believed in me and gave me a was then set on class­ Gretsch electric guitar and an ical music a few of amplifier. He was an unbeliev- my earlier pop songs able character who influenced had made the charts, so many musicians in his time!” which made me turn Like many young boys, Þor­ vald­ur longed to go outside and back to writing popu­ play football rather than stay lar music.” inside most of the time practic- ing the guitar so at the age of 11 he quit. “That was a BIG mistake Brimkló on one hand and punk because I found out that sum- music on the other. The band mer that it was possible to make had faithful fans and its only al- your own chord progression and bum, released in 1984, acquired thus your own tunes or songs on somewhat of a cult status in the the guitar. Wow, what a wonder- musical circles,” says Þorvaldur. ful discovery that was! By that Soon after Pax Vobis quit play- time all guitar schools were fully ing (mostly because of musical booked and with long waiting differences but also because of lists. It took me 3 years to start the member’s educational pur- guitar lessons at a prominent suits) and Þorvaldur decided to guitar school. In the meantime I say goodbye to pop music and taught myself how to play by lis- hello to classical music. tening to Yes, Bowie, Genesis and Maestro Andrés Segovia amongst The story behind the others. Also, it was my lucky day name when I met my mentor, the late “Although my mind was then Einar Kristján Einarsson, who also set on classical music a few of favored progressive rock ‘n’ roll my earlier pop songs had made and found it remarkable to meet the charts, which made me turn a teenager who liked this kind back to writing popular music. of music when so many were The thought of starting my own passionately in to Punk music. band became strong and a Under his influence I went all the name occurred to me, which I way and finished my studies as a wanted to use for it. A friend of guitarist and a composer.” mine, a movie producer, wrote During Þorvaldur’s studies he a comic series and named his started a few bands such as Exo­ leading character after me, Þorvaldur Bjarni welcomed us to a Todmobile studio session as the band was recording their new album. dus (with Björk amongst others) but he always called me Tod. and Pax Vobis with his friends This hero drove around in his Skúli Sverrisson and Geiri Sæm. “Todmobile”, like the pope in his Bowie, Led Zeppelin and Yes, The big mistake Full of ideas, he and his band Popemobile,” explains Þorvaldur. along with classical music by He was a little out of luck though mates practiced almost 24/7 The band Todmobile was found- the old masters such as Brahms, because at that time such an and dreamed of conquering the ed in 1988 by Þorvaldur, Eyþór Beeth­oven and Stravinsky. instrument­­ was not on the curri­­ world. “The music played by Pax Arnalds and vocalist Andrea When it came to choosing an culum so he had to start with a Vobis was a complex one and Gylfadóttir, “my soul mate and instrument the choice was easy: classical guitar. “Ok, the next not in unity with the Icelandic close writing partner,” adds Þor- An ELECTRIC GUITAR!” says best thing! But I really enjoy­­ed contemporary music at that time; valdur. This was followed by five Þorvaldur. it and no wonder, I had a brill­iant there was Bubbi Morthens and years of good and happy days

Issue five ı 21 25 years of Todmobile

Todmobile. Photo: Oscar Bjarnason

when everything was possible, no wonder, since this was a he started composing music and Horrors and Rocky Horror. Some complimented by six Icelandic time of big changes the musical producing recordings for others. of my songs have entered the Music Awards including “Best world with rap and techno music “Since 1997 I have composed Eurovision Contest; one of them, songwriter of the year”. “This domin­­ating the market. But 6 musicals, all of which have “All out of luck”, taking second was definitely one of the high- there were also positive things entered the stages of Icelandic place. During these years I have lights of the Todmobile saga,” emerging from this chaos such theaters. I have also conducted met and worked with many won- says Þorvaldur. Todmobile has as Björk’s album, Debut, and numerous international musi- derful and talented people who recorded 10 albums since it was the rock-rap band Quarashi for cals by world famous foreign have influenced and inspired me founded and played countless instance,” says Þorvaldur. After com­­posers, such as Evita, in so many ways. For instance gigs. For a number of years some time of “experimenting” Les Miserables, Little Shop of Selma Björnsdóttir, who sang the band has offered one big show each year, now held in the Eldborg auditorium at the Harpa Concert Hall.

New era In 1993 Todmobile went “semi­ -dormant” for some time and for awhile Todmobile became Tweety. “It was at an era when many Icelandic bands either pushed the pause button, chang­­ed their names or simply quit. These were strange times and rather bad ones for the Icelandic music society when bands were rather insecure in their choice of music and basically experimenting. And The original members of Todmobile: Eyþór Arnalds, Andrea Gylfadóttir and Þorvaldur Bjarni. 22 ı WOW is in the air “All out of luck”. Since 2008 “Mr. Jon Anderson, my work has mostly revolved around composing, producing, will perform with Tod­ conducting­­ and Todmobile.” mobile’s lead singers, Andrea Gylfadóttir Happy birthday and Eyþór Ingi.” “I think that Todmobile inspired the musical society here in other half is completely new ma- Ice­­­land to dare; dare to seek terial,” he says. At Todmobile’s edu­­cation in music but still play “Grand Concerto” in November, rock ‘n’ roll, dare to hold big the world famous singer in the concerts and tour around the also world famous band Yes, Mr. Jon Anderson is coming country and dare to face and Jon Anderson, will perform with on Anderson is undoubt- success with a series of albums conquer different kinds of music. Todmobile’s lead singers, Andrea edly one of the most he did with Vangelis, and most Tod­­mobile represents prog rock, Gylfadóttir and Eyþór Ingi, the recogn­­­­ izable­ voices in recently released the critically­ J rock, pop music, jazz, electro newest Todmobile member, progressive­­­­­ rock as the lead acclaimed solo album entitled vocalist­­­­­ and creative force Survival and Other Stories. and orchestral music,” says Þor- and the other veteran members be­­hind Yes. Anderson was the valdur and adds that he detects of the band. “Todmobile is to author and a major creative some influence from the band in Iceland what Yes is to England influence­­­ behind the ground-­ numerous young and educated so we really look forward to breaking album Fragile as well Icelandic musicians who have working with Jon Anderson. This as the series of epic, complex chosen rock music as part of could be the band’s greatest pieces such as Awaken, Gates of Delirium and especially their profession. musical event up till now,” says Close to the Edge which were Now, 25 years have passed Þorvaldur, “the very best songs central to the band’s success. since the creation of Todmobile of Todmobile and Yes will fill the Additionally, Anderson co- and Þorvaldur is in the midst of magnificent concert hall along author­ed the group’s biggest creating a new album with the the Reykjavík harbor.” hits, including I’ve Seen All band to celebrate its 25th birth- Good People, Roundabout, and Check out Todmobile’s music on www. Owner Of A Lonely Heart. In day. “Half of the album holds our youtube.com/user/todmobilemusic addition, Anderson had great first concert in Eldborg (at the Learn more about Pax Vobis at Harpa Concert Hall) in 2011, the my­space.com/paxvobisiceland The way carrental should be ASK THE BEST PRICE IN REYKJAVÍK Free Pick Up in Reykjavik

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Skálmöld’s reign of terror

Skálmöld was founded in August 2009 and has since become the biggest metal act in Iceland. Skálmöld plays music that could be described as “battle metal”, a potion of epic Viking metal, old school death and thrash metal, entwined with the Icelandic heritage. The lyrics are all written under the strict rules of the ancient Icelandic poetry and influenced by the heathen roots of this Nordic nation. The outcome is a powerful mixture of heavy metal and heroic Sagas, erupting from the boiling core of the frozen island. The band also puts on a killer show, rock tight and energetic.

Photos: Curtesy of Skálmöld

kálmöld (the name their music is bathed in a kind of literally means heroic splendor. Skálmöld has “reign of terror”) is received praise for their use of travelling through the Icelandic language in their Europe until the lyrics, but does that mean that Smiddle of October with Finnish their non-Icelandic audiences metal band Finntroll following are missing out? “I would be the latter’s latest album release. lying­ if I said that they under- We got hold of Skálmöld’s stood the lyrics but every once bass­ist Snæbjörn Ragnarsson in a while we meet people who who told us all about their big really delve into the meaning tour. “Two years ago Skálmöld of our songs. As for the general travelled through Europe with listener I believe this foreign Finntroll and we became good effect is working for us. While that comes to see us during our the aftermath of this tour. Then friends with the band members. they don’t understand the lyrics tour. The European audiences I guess the cold, hard reality That’s basically why they asked there’s a unique quality and a have been great and one thing will set in; we go back to work, us on this tour. One should nev- cert­ain mystique to them, so they do better than our Icelandic mop the floors, put money in er underestimate the ale-forged even though we are expanding audi­­ence is that they show up the parking meter and complain friendships between Icelanders abroad, our songs will always be on time. This is why we’ve been about the weather, but we do and Finns,” says Snæbjörn. “The in Icelandic,” promises Snæ­ playing to a full house every have a fun project that we are plan is to play 37 gigs in 39 björn. English lyrics are definitely night even if we’re not the main really looking forward to; a days, travelling in a car that has not on the horizon for Skálmöld act. And the energy from the colla­boration with the Iceland bunk-beds for us in the back. but their albums that have been audience is great. We wouldn’t Symphony Orchestra.” Fortunately we will be travell­ publ­ished outside of Iceland allow anything else.” What does that collaboration ing mostly at night. We’re also have included the basic thread entail? travelling with Týr, a metal band of the songs in prose, explaining Back to hard reality – “Well, basically we will play our from the Faroe Islands and I each part of the work. hardly! music along with the orchestra. hear some local bands might be Do you expect more projects Skálmöld can be expected back Super-orchestrator Haraldur joining us on concerts when we to follow after this tour? to Iceland around the middle of Sveinbjörnsson has been arr­­ get to Western Europe.” “Usually tours like these leave October and the members of the anging our songs, adapting an impact. We are getting to band are mostly looking forward them and even adding to them The question of language know a lot of people, network- to sleeping in a bed that doesn’t for the orchestra. We have Skálmöld, Finntroll and Týr all ing like crazy, and hopefully move and shake all night (and emphasized that these concerts play heavy metal laced with his- some of it will result in more one that’s wider than 60 cm). must add something to our toric and literary heritage wrapp­­ pro­­jects, tours, invitations to “Most of us miss our family and music instead of just becoming ed in their own native language. music festivals etc. Of course it will be fun getting back home “the symphonic version”. These Although each has its own style we aim to captivate everyone and start working, going through things have a tendency to drown 24 ı WOW is in the air “Usually tours like these leave an impact. We are getting to know a lot of people, network- ing like crazy, and hopefully some of it will result in more projects, tours, invitations to music festivals etc.”

out the classical part so it can’t work is done be beforehand. really come into its own. We’re We have been getting some not going to let that happen. indication how this is all going to This is a massive project and sound with the help of various the two concerts that have been music and computer programs ad­­vertised for November 28 and based on the goose bumps and 29 have already sold out. I it’s raised on our hardened am now at liberty to share that hides I can’t wait to see the final an extra date has been added results. It’s going to be absolute- on November 30­ and we are ly magnificent!” absolutely thrilled about this project. The real rehearsals start For more information and tour dates visit www.skalmold.is in November but a lot of this Issue five ı 25 o th t is en t s i L

o e C l o o l K a

26 ı WOW is in the air break from touring while they the Unsigned Band Review (a record their first album. After social network for musicians). Cool Kaleo that they’ll play at the Airwaves Other smaller stations have also festival and also a couple of off given the song a spin. There has been a lot of buzz surrounding the new Icelandic venue gigs including the Blue band Kaleo. Their groove-laden mix of indie and retro rock Lagoon. “Kaleo played the n’ roll is quite different from other Icelandic export bands Their fan base is growing ev- main stage on this that are known for more chilled and atmospheric sound. ery day with back to back pack­­ year’s Reykjavik Cult­ Photos: Árni Sæberg and Raggi Óla ed concerts and a lot of air time on the radio but how are people ure Night, the biggest outside of Iceland feeling this single concert in Ice­ new band? In the UK they have land.” ven though they on almost every radio station. are young and Their two other singles, “Pour have only recently sugar on me” and “Rock n’ formed their band, Roller”, have also hit the charts. the members grew As Kaleo have only released up as friends and these three hits the expectations Ehave been playing together for their album, coming out in since they were kids, forming November, are very high. a rare connection. Performing Kaleo played the main stage their first gig at an off venue on this year’s Reykjavik Culture show on Airwaves in 2012 the Night, the biggest single concert band is barely a year old but in Iceland. Around 40,000 people­ since then they have played came and over 100,000 heard all over Iceland and had great the concert on the radio or on success in Icelandic radio. Their national television, and this in version of the old Icelandic a nation of about 300,000. The classic “Vor í Vaglaskógi” hit band recently sign­­ed a contract already made an impression get- Kaleo is planning a European/North num­­ber one in Iceland and is with Icelandic record label Sena ting some air time on UK’s Abso- American tour for 2014. Check them the most played Icelandic song about re­­leasing their album in lute Radio with their song Rock out at: www.facebook.com/theband. kaleo and www.kaleo.is. of the summer, hitting the charts Iceland and are currently on a n’ Roller, following a success on

Issue five ı 27 The Steak House by the harbor A warmhearted restaurant If you like steak this is it! Steikhúsið, which simply means “The Steak House”, is a trendy new restaurant in the middle of Reykjavik. The vibrant, beating heart of the premises is the Spanish Mibrasa coal oven where guests can watch the deft hands of the cook, artfully preparing the sizzling steaks.

The beautiful coal oven, visible to guests above a bar table is used for grilling and baking. The distinct flavor from the coals gives the food a richer taste and enhances the tenderness of the meat, and speaking of tender- ness, if the texture of supple, butter soft meat is to your liking, be sure to taste the “28 days” tendered meat specially cured by the chef. The excellent selections and innovative side dishes are all tanta­lizing and be sure not to miss the grilled Icelandic fish, a tasty delicacy worthy of your indulgence. Although the focus is Promotion primarily on steaks the vegetar- ian choice is excellent. A myriad Steikhúsið of flavorful starters served with Tryggvagata 4-6 101 Reykjavík freshly baked bread will set the I Tel: 561 11 11 www.steik.is mood for your meal. The exciting I list of side dishes gives every- one the opportunity to design of a dilemma there is always the expect the children’s menu is terials create an ambiance of old their favorite meal or why not be set menus. These vary with the excellent. fashioned charm and history. The daring and try something new? seasons and offer the fresh- restaurant is situa­ted just above How about deep fried tempura est and most popular dishes Rough and ready the old harbor by the whale vegetables or sweet potato availa­ble at any given time. The style interior watching center of Reykjavík­ and French fries? owners take pride in catering to The raw decoration and furniture therefore the interior, re­­miniscent If selecting becomes too much the whole family so as you would made partly out of recycled ma- of old harbor pubs, is fitting and apt. Also it reflects on the history of the house which was built to house a blacksmith’s smithy and metal works. But the main focus here is really on steaks so back to basics, this restaurant is situ- ated firmly in the modern world. The drinks menu arrives on the table in the form of an iPad making it easy to browse, create a wide selecti­on and change it when something new and exciting catches the sommelier’s attention. After a good meal in the warm atmosphere of The Steak House, a stroll along the harbor or through the lively neighborhood, of restaurants, cafés, artisan stor­­­es and workshops will give a fitt­ing ending to a fun and enjoy­ able evening.

28 ı WOW is in the air Let´s go to the … phy­­sical dimensions are huge! classic. How many bars have Doesn´t everyone say that size a bowling lane? In Iceland, not really does matter? many, unless you count the bars Lebowski Bar Try their amazing burgers, there’s at actual bowling alleys that cer- cheese, bacon, a béarn­aise tainly don’t have the cool vibe sauce option and succulent beef of Le­bowski Bar. DJs and a bass The Reykjavik venue that rocks! tenderloin. If that’s not enough, player add to the music mix at From the entrepreneurs that brought you Café Oliver choose from one of the 12 kinds of weekends and there’s room milkshakes to go with it. to dance. Check it out dudes, and Vega­mot, comes Lebowski Bar. You can take a you’re guaranteed a good time. quick guess where the name and inspiration comes “Careful man, there’s from and even if you didn´t like the infamous 1998 a beverage here!” WOW Challenge: Dress up as movie we are cert­ain you will love this bar. Jeffrey ‘the Dude’ Lebowski, a real rockabilly chick or dude the protagonist of the Coen before you go to the Le­bowski Just walking into this retro sunshine yellow that will cheer brother’s comedy, is renowned Bar. You’ll fit right in. American bar puts a smile on even the dullest of days. for his penchant for ‘White Russ­ your face and the mood is very ians’ – vodka based cocktails 1960’s. You can hang out at featuring coffee liqueurs and Dine and jive The Lebowski Bar the old fashioned porch and cream or milk. The Lebowski Lebowski Bar really captures the Laugavegur 20a imagine you are in a real action Bar has taken this now-iconic diner style with cosy booths and +354 552 2300 movie. They don´t make bars drink to a new level, offering an a fabulous jukebox containing [email protected] like that anymore … oh wait they over 1,600 songs guaranteed astounding 18 varieties of White www.lebowskibar.is do, this one! Four big screens to get those hips swaying. If Russian, along with an extensive adorn the walls, so it’s also a that´s not enough there’s a DJ bar list. FIND IT ON FACEBOOK great place to hang out when on every night of the week so and Twitter there are big events and sport- you won´t feel the pressure of Bowling at the bar Twitter: @LebowskiBar ing high­lights to be seen. And select­ing all the music by your- The real icing on the Le­bowski Instagram: #LebowskiBar Open there’s also an “outside” area self. The menus are the biggest cake, however, is the bar’s 11:00 – 01:00 Sun-Thurs deco­­rated in a zappy Miami­- in Iceland … no literally! Their gen­u­­ine bowling lane – it’s a and 11:00 – 04:00 Fri/Sat

Lebowski Bar is my favorite place to hang out at. I love grabbing a good beer, a burger & topping it with a delicious milkshake. Lebowski Bar plays oldies music which mak­ es the vibe like none other in Reykjavik. They also have happy hour from 4-7pm and who doesn’t love that! Bottom line, Lebowski Bar is a great main­ stream bar where you can meet fellow travel­ ers and have a drink with locals. Practice the word ‘SKÁL’ (Cheers) ~ Inga,@TinyIceland (www.tinyiceland.com)

Promotion

Issue five ı 29 Promotion

big screens and TVs. In­­side the The English Pub pub there is room for up to 150 people, and an outdoor terrace can accommodate plenty more on Save water, drink beer! those balmy Icelandic­­ evenings! For years, Iceland has enjoyed a diverse selection of Whether it is football­­ (Premier and Champions League), rugby or golf, restaurants and often sophisticated bars. However, one there are always special offers tiny grumble occasionally surfaced from the country’s when live events are being broad- Anglophiles – simply that there was no proper “pub”. cast. Live music every night adds to the atmosphere and for anyone feeling lucky, there is the Wheel And so the English Pub was Whisky galore of Fortune. Regulars like nothing born. From modest beginnings more than to spin the wheel and it has built a hearty reputation, Not content to rest on its laurels, chance a “Sorry” or preferably­­ seeking out, with the advice and the English Pub has ventured win what used to be called­­ a Yard guidance of its dedicated cus- north of its virtual border and also of Ale. These days, it’s inevitably­ tomers, the finest ale available offers the finest selection of whis- known as a meter of beer, but the to mankind. Today it offers its kies anywhere in the country. The winners don’t seem to mind! enthusiastic clientele the chance choice of some 60 malts include to sample 50 beers from around many of Scotland’s finest, ensuring the world, as well as a staggering that numerous Icelanders­­ and 15 Icelandic brands. worldly travelers make the pilgrim-

age to the pub’s humble door. Located at the very heart of down­­town Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photographs – like an album of the city’s history just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer. The English Pub Austurstræti 12 A sporting chance 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 578 0400 Live sporting coverage is amply Mobile: +354 697 9003 catered for, with a choice of three www.enskibarinn.is

30 ı WOW is in the air Promotion

Very nice Vegamót The all-in -one restaurant

This elegant but casual two floor restaurant lunch hours. It has very reasonable prices for is located in the heart of Reykjavík­ on Vega­­ quality, portions and presentation­ and guests mótastígur, close to Laugavegur.­­­­ The restau- can choose from a wide variety of decadent rant has been popular for many years, perhaps desserts­ – if they make it that far. because of its wonderful quality of being an Try their excellent selection of good beers. all-in-one, restaurant, café, bar and nightclub. Every day there is a special offer on bottled You‘ll never want to leave! beers worth a taste. Here the decor is rich on the Mediterranean side and yet elegant with a jazzy ambiance. Vegamót In the summertime tables are moved outside Vegamótastíg 4 I to the shelt­ered terrace, probably one of the 101 Reykjavík hottest places in Iceland during those short Tel: 511 3040 summer months. This place is famous for [email protected] I their ‘fresh fish of the day’, served all day from www.vegamot.is

Issue five ı 31 The menu consists of great Hressingarskálinn selections and offers everything from breakfast to a fantastic dinner. Hressingarskálinn offers Coffee house, restaurant Icelandic food for curious visitors. You can always try the tradition- al Icelandic meat soup. If not, & night club there’s lamb or the fish stew – You won’t be disappointed. Hressingarskálinn is a warm place with plenty of seating and a great location in Hressingarskálinn is stylish and old at the same time, a history down­town Reykjavik. It’s one of the few places that open at 9 AM to serve breakfast well preserved. Check out Hress- for hungry travelers or locals. Hressingarskálinn is a big part of Reykjavík’s history; ingarskálinn for great prices and the house was built in 1802 and the restaurant was established in 1932. The house awesome fun! has hosted Hressingarskálinn since 1932.

Sitting down for a coffee has sunlight. Thursday to Sunday a magnetic effect on Iceland’s is usually packed with people most talented artists and writers. from all over the world. It’s a Smokers can have a seat on great place to meet strangers for a heated patio with service all some interesting story sharing. day. Over the summer, this place Live bands play on Fridays and really comes alive. The yard is Sat­urdays, guaranteeing a crowd completely sheltered from the before all the popular DJ’s hit the wind, allowing you to enjoy food floor with party tunes from 01:00- and beverages in the bright 04:30 AM.

“The menu consists of great selections and offers every- thing from break- fast to a fantastic dinner.”

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32 ı WOW is in the air Promotion

the staff have collected over the Sakebarinn Sushi & Sticks years work­­ing at their first Sushi restaurant­­ called Sushibarinn, which is located on the first floor The one and only choice for in the same house. A year and a wild ride later, this sushi family has incorporated­­ a bunch of new Sushi & Sticks …so you can check it and talented people with some great new recipes and skills they off your bucket list didn’t know they had and didn’t even know existed. The walls are hand painted by them, the wine selected by them, the menu is Located in a loft on Laugavegur, the main shopping street, in one of Iceland’s old­ designed by them and the place est buildings (1886) is a great new restaurant with a great view and an amazing at­ is loved by them. They also love mosphere called Sakebarinn. In its beautiful location, surrounded by windows that to present food so their clients look down on Austurstræti, (an extension of Laugavegur leading to the Old Town) become part of their love for and up Skólavörðustígur (known for its cafés, local boutiques and art shops with sushi. The look on your face is what they are aiming for, the look native works), Sakebarinn lies in the very heart of downtown Reykjavík. In the winter of enjoyment. you can see the Northern Lights from the balcony and in the summer, the amazing summer sunsets over the harbor.

The owners of Sakebarinn have ing that day. Why live on an island can truly enhance the feel of real a keen interest for the arts and in the middle of the Atlantic if Japanese dining. It comes in a crafts and a wealth of creative as- you’re not going take advantage surprising range of flavors too, sets to play with. Although Sake­­ of the natural fauna? Along with everything from really girly fruit barinn has a strong foundation in the local seafood, Sakebarinn sake to the fire spewing alcohol pure Japanese cuisine the current also carries some more exotic content of some of the more style of the restaurant proves that things like octopus, just to keep butch types; potato sake, warm the owners are not afraid to break it interesting, and with a little and cold sake and Japanese plum Sakebarinn some of the rules. To them sushi is some­­thing for everyone. There’s wine. And then of course are the Laugavegur 2, 101 Reykjavík meant to be an art form. love on every plate – You will feel bottles that didn’t make it on to (entrance to the second floor Along with its handcrafted sushi, it with each taste. the menu because no one could from Skólavörðustígur) Sakebarinn also offers a selection­­ It’s no accident that the place is read the labels and therefore no Opening hours: Mon-Sun 5:00 of sticks and other meat courses,­­ named Sakebarinn. It does fea- one knows what they are. Mys- PM – 00:00 featuring whale and horse and ture the country’s largest selection­­ tery sake! Sakebarinn is a place Tel: +354 777 3311 anything that’s fresh and interest- of sake and a shot before a meal born to showcase the talents www.facebook.com/Sakebarinn

Issue five ı 33 Choose your wine The disappearing café Guests can have their say on the wine list of Le Cha­te­aux Des Dix Chuttes and David will make special orders to fulfill their Tíu dropar / Le Chateaux Des wish­es. In fact, he welcomes any sug­gestions making the wine list Dix Chuttes one of the more, well-endowed in Reykjavík. He´s especially Tíu dropar (Ten Drops) is a café located in the cellar of Lauga­veg­ur 27. This is one of interested in serving good Port to the oldest cafés in Iceland and for the last 30 years to this very day they serve freshly his clientele. baked pancakes and waffles á la the grandmothers of Iceland, with lots of whipped Intimate climate cream and Icelandic jam. The little wine room and café seat only 40 guests and the mood is set into a French wine room known in the early evening. It’s safe to say as Le Chateaux Des Dix Chuttes this is just the kind of place that or the Castle of the Ten Drops. was missing from the brimming This is a lovely place to sit and Icelandic bar and café scene - a enjoy good wines along with perfect sett­ing for a small group cheese, ham or other light dishes of friends to reminisce over the for as little as 500 ISK a plate, good old days or for a first date. and don´t worry, the coffee, Be sure to taste David´s “wine co­coa and pancakes are still of the week” or let his fair beer there! Lovely French music sets prices amaze you. the mood and the ambiance is Check out the ten drops twitt­er perfect for a deep conversation. feed and find both café and wine Guests wanting to break out in room on Facebook. song can have their turn after 22:00 on the weekends, as long Tíu dropar / Le Chateaux as they can find someone to play Des Dix Chuttes the antique piano given to the Laugavegur 27 I 101 Reykjavík I café’s owner, David Bensow, by Tel: 00 354 551 9380 Ten Drops is also known for its wines and beer. We recommend a regular. homemade cakes, baked from the French meat soup, a popular scratch according to old recipes, dish and another old favorite. and of course, their hot cocoa, known by many of their guests Where did the as ‘The Only Real Hot Cocoa café go? on Earth’. If you’re not in the Don´t be surprised if you can´t mood for old fashioned Icelandic find the café after 18:00. Some­­ good­ies you can choose from an thing happens around that time assortment of light dishes, tea, that trans­­forms this little cellar

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34 ı WOW is in the air The Tapas House A fusion of food and frolic Fish Company by the old Around Iceland harbor Tapas, stemming from the Spanish cuisine, in one evening is more than just something to eat, it is the joy of life fused with deliciousness and color. At Fish Company has a very cozy 70’s ambi- The Tapas House by the old harbor you’ll find ance and is probably one of the coziest cellar all of that, plus excellent and vivacious service restaurants you’ll ever find. Aptly located, it The Seafood Grill from a staff that takes the fun part of tapas stands where the remnants of an older harbor very seriously. were found during an excavation. The rem- Aside from its menu The Tapas House nants have since been incorporated into “The The real taste holds a Spanish connection historically as the Tides”, an artwork by Hjörleifur Stefánsson building that once housed a saltfish pro- that sets the area in a unique atmosphere. cessing comp­any mainly catering to Spain. In its beautiful surroundings Fish Company of the land Now, about 90 years later, the saltfish has takes its guests on an adventurous journey returned with its place on The Tapas House In 2010 Head Chef Gústav Axel Gunnlaugs- with a fusion menu based on herbs and menu along with fresh seafood straight off son was awarded the title “Chef of the year”. spices selected from all over the world. Try the boats, juicy steaks, colorful fruits and The following year he spent traveling around the “Around Iceland” tasting menu, a great vegetables. Iceland looking for the real taste of the land in­­troduction to local produce from the fields And speaking of the menu, The Tapas and along the way found a few things that to the sea, sending your taste buds on a trip House has declared war on repetitiousness now are key items in the interior of the restau- around the country while dining in downtown giving its guests the chance to put together rant. While on the road Gústav also drew Reykjavík. their own perfect meal with over a thousand up a menu like no other with his delectable Some say the real star of Fish Company variations. The sample menus have been interpretation of Iceland’s collective grill taste. is the fresh Icelandic seafood but for other highly recommended, especially the “Discov- Forget the fermented and sour food of days delicious options, there’s a variety of lamb, er Iceland” and “Tivoli Menu”. gone by – this is the taste that Icelanders beef, pork and vegetarian dishes. An eclectic The Tapas House promises Spanish tradi- really love! wine list echoes the menu guaranteeing an tions with all the colors, textures and sensa- unforgettable culinary adventure. The Seafood Grill, located on Skólavörðu­stíg­ tions they embody, a virtual tapas experience, ur, midway between Hall­­gríms­­kirkja church in an environment that is, never-the-less, Fiskfélagið / Fish Company and the main shopping street, Laugavegur, uniquely Icelandic with an unforgettable view Vesturgata 2a, Grófartorg has an excellent outdoor area with a view of of the old harbor. This is Icelandic tapas! 101 Reykjavík the church. As the name implies Icelandic Tel: 552 5300 seafood has a key role on the menu, which is Tapashúsið / The Tapas House www.fishcompany.is simple and straight forward with an enticing Ægisgarður 2 and affordable lunch menu and a fun sample 101 Reykjavík menu called “Grill party”, a multi course grill Tel: 512 8181 feast put together by the chef – guaranteed www.tapashusid.is to make your mouth water.

Sjávargrillið / The Seafood Grill Skólavörðurstígur 14 101 Reykjavík Tel: 571 1100 www.sjavargrillid.com

Issue five ı 35 Promotion

Reminder: If you thought you The Danish Pub were in for a quiet night guess again, The Danish Pub features live music every night with When in Iceland, special appearances and unad- vertised happenings on Wednes- go Danish! days, Fridays and Saturdays. Put your musical knowledge to the You know that Iceland used to be a Danish colony, test at the Wednesday night pop- right? Even though independ­ence from the Danish quiz; the prizes will surprise you. Crown was necessary, Icelanders still celebrate every­ thing Danish, so don´t expect to meet a big Danish Best local pub in crowd at The Danish Pub, they are all Icelanders just Reykjavík this spirit, check out the “house” acting­ like they’re Danish. Really! Wherever you‘re from you’ll want within the pub – an off-the­-wall to have a great time while vis­iting design in its most literal sense! Reykjavík. The people of Reykja­ This bar has made a name for it- a remarkable selection of beers Get carefree or “ligeglad” (lee- vík do anyway, so they flock to self in the Reykjavik social scene including the famous Danish white glaath), shoot some darts, try the The Danish Pub for a beer “en øl” and is known locally as Den Dan- beers, the darker more malt brews custom­ary Gammel Dansk bitt­ers during the Happy Hour every day ske Kro (we all just want a reason and of course the traditional and or catch some live football. Watch from 16-19. The place is crowded to speak Danish in public). This almost obligatory Tuborg and the world go by on the outside and you’re guaranteed to meet popular downtown venue serves Carlsberg. If you come during the terrace and have a taste of the some fun, “lee glaath” people. Christmas season you can taste traditional smørre­brød (fantas- some of the renowned Christmas tic open sandwiches). You can WOW Challenge: Imagine there’s brews, very popular in demand. pre-order these delicious snacks a potato in your throat and re­ Just ask for Julebryg (“you-le- for larger groups. ceive every drink with the words: bree”). “Tag skaadoo haw”. They’ll all Does this sound too think you´re from Copenhagen. Do as the Danes do tranquil? Honest! The owners of the Danish Pub The Danish Pub is nothing if strive to create the true Danish not a place to party. The atmos­­ ­­ Den Danske Kro atmos­phere known among the phere is easy going and you can Ingólfsstræti 3 I 101 Reykjavík Danes (and Danish-prone Ice­­ choose from a variety of shots and Tel: +354 552 0070 landers) as “hyggeligt”. If you even cocktails if you’re not in the www.dendanske.is truly are Danish this can be your mood for a beer (Does that ever Opening hours: 14:00 – 01:00 “home away from home”. And in happen?). Sun-Thurs 14:00 – 05:00 Fri-Sat

36 ı WOW is in the air Tapas Barinn A tasty ray of sunshine in downtown Reykjavík

Imagine yourself in the hot sun The seduction of of Anda­lucia, stepping into the cool interior of a typical bodega seafood When you enter Tapas Barinn or wine bar. The whitewashed you will immed­iately be seduc­ed walls, simple wooden tables and by the aromas of garlic, olive a smiling patron with his friendly oil, shellfish, succulent meats staff greet you. You might not and cheese. The well balanced realize that you are, in fact, in menu contains over 50 dishes downtown Reykjavík. to suit all tastes. Any of these Tapas Barinn is a place bursting dishes can be ordered individu­ ­ with delici­ous­ smells and flavors Promotion ally or as part of a main course. of traditional tapas. Along the If making a choice is too difficult walls are racks of fine wines and just let the master chef pick his right in front of you the tasty favorites for you. dishes­­ are being served to the At Tapas Barinn you will get a diverse and very loyal clientele. stylish fusion of first-class ser- vice, fresh fish and seafood and Temptations for the Icelandic lamb. This combina­ tion­ taste buds has made Tapas Barinn one of Tapas are small portions of Iceland’s most popular restau­­ food, hot and cold and because rants. But don’t take our word for people are not focused upon it, check it out for yourself and eating an entire meal the serv- be convinced. ing of tapas encourages con- versation to flow more easily. Like the Spanish, Icelanders go Tapas Barinn to bars to meet friends, chat, Vesturgata 3b, 101 Reykjavík ­argue, joke and flirt. Tapas Bar­­ Tel: 551 2344 inn is the ideal venue for this www.tapas.is social activity, with their great food and service in a relaxed at­­mosphere. You are sure to be in for a happy evening. Issue five ı 37 ’s c at oo h k W i n

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Christmas cake 10 slices

espite the name, this their recipe so our readers could bowl until the mixture is light and delicious cake used to impress their friends with their 250 g flour creamy. Add eggs, one at a time, be a hous ehold staple real Icelandic baking skills. 1 ½ tsp. baking powder and mix for 3-4 minutes. Sift flour served all year round. This recipe has a bit of a fancy ½-1 tsp. cardamom seeds, and baking powder into another D freshly ground or pestled (from Actually, it still is, although Ice- twist to it as freshly ground car- bowl and add ground cardamom landic housewives might not be damoms give it a unique flavor. If 10-20 pods) seeds and raisins. Add the flour 1 dl raisins as prone to baking them as they you don’t like raisins you could try mixture, milk and vanilla or lemon 1 ¼ dl milk us­­ed to and also these days, they switching to chocolate chips. 1 tsp. vanilla extract or ½ tsp. extract to the butter and sugar; can be bought from a store. Still, lemon extract mix well. Grease a deep, rectang­ homemade cakes are special and 175 g butter, soft ular cake tin and add the mixture we got Gestgjafinn, Iceland’s lead- 175 g sugar Heat the oven to 175°C. Mix evenly. Bake on lowest rim for 2 large eggs ing culinary magazine, to give us butt­­er and sugar thoroughly in a 50-60 minutes.

38 ı WOW is in the air Tax free shopping and a great variety of shops

Only 10 min. drive from Reykjavík center

smaralind.is Open: Weekdays 11-19 Thursdays 11-21 Saturdays 11-18 Sundays 13-18 Follow us on And now for something completely different

Icelanders love going to movie theaters. Perhaps it’s because our winters can be long, dark and cold. It means that sometimes we just need a little escape from our own reality and to get lost in the stories told on the silver screen. Or maybe it’s just that we love movies

A true paradise for film enthusiasts by Dísa Bjarnadóttir Photo: Kristinn Magnússon

or some reason the ma- Ice­­landic cinemas has decreas­ and then return to discuss what curious people a very eclectic jority of Icelandic movie ed by eight percent. One reason youve seen. We have a good collection of horror movies, Ftheaters show mostly big for this could be that Bíó Paradís selection of music and all of most of them quite out of the budg­et Hollywood films. But is now the only movie theater in the employees are great DJs mainstream. there is one notable exception: downtown Reykjavík. It also has so we always have good music Hrönn says: “The best way to Bíó Paradís on Hverfisgata, quite a cozy little café. There are playing.”­­ introduce a countrys culture is which was founded by The tables and chairs, couches and through their films.” So the movie Icelandic Filmmakers! Associa- a bar. A great way to learn about theater often hosts various tion with the goal to enrich the Hrönn Sveinsdóttir, the manag­ foreign places events such as Polish, Chinese, selection for Icelandic movie ing director, describes it this Bíó Paradís has also been gain­­ and European film days to name goers and promote Icelandic way: “Everybody is welcome to ing a growing reputation as a a few. Each year it shows over film-making. And it’s off to a come here and just hang out. host to various events, such as 400 films from over 40 different great start. Thats why the tables and chairs Wednesday night game nights countries. It has also become an In the two years Bíó Paradís and the chessboard is there. and Black Sundays. On Black annual tradition to show select- has been operating, visitors We see it as a venue where you Sundays a small group of horror ed old and new Icelandic films have increased by 33 percent, can sit down and have a beer movie fans have been showing throughout the summer, catering even though general visits to with your friends, watch a film other fans, movie buffs or just especially to foreign visitors.

40 ı WOW is in the air HVERFISGÖTU 6 • S. 551 3470

SAEVARKARLREYKJAVIK saevarkarlverslun air OW

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Reykjavík International Film Festival September 26 - October 6, 2013

WOW air is a proud sponsor of Reykjavík International Film Festival­ - RIFF. For eleven days every late September the center of Reykja­ vik vibra­tes with culture and energy brought by the presence of cinephiles, artists and press buzzing around town to reach the events at RIFF. With a wide range of dramas and non-fiction from around 40 countries in 13 program categories, RIFF offers events suitable for everyone.

is a great asts with the main goals to tourists, have visited the festival. Grand Prix of RIFF, the Golden opportun­ pres­­ent new and progressive If you visit Reykjavik during Puffin, to the Best Picture of the RIFFity for quality films, support innovation RIFF season you will experience competition category, entitled visitors not only to watch movies in filmmaking, promote social how the city buzzes with films: New Visions. but also to experience a cultural and cultural dialogue and, last Whether you are getting your This is a festival with a modest event. The festival is popular but not least, continue building hair cut, out bowling or sipping aim - RIFF wants to change lives with tourists since all movies are an international network of on a cappuccino you could find and it is their belief that films and either shown in English or with filmmakers and film enthusiasts. yourself situated in one of Riff art can change people’s lives for English subtitles. RIFF highlights Sixteen films were screened Around Town’s many unortho- the better and that’s teRIFFic! independent filmmaking from all at the first RIFF in 2004 but in dox venues. But the art of cine- over the world with an emphasis 2005 already 70 films from 26 ma knows no boundaries, and on up-and-coming filmmakers countries were shown to 13,000 neither does RIFF. Film enthu- and encourages the interaction guests. 2012 RIFF had nearly siasts can be found all around of cinema with other art forms Iceland and by organizing concerts, photo therefore RIFF exhibitions and more. “Each year the festival jury is launched You never know, which special awards the Grand Prix of RIFF, the around Ice- event might come up next - Golden Puffin, to the Best Picture land during Swim­-In Cinema, Ciné-Concert of the competition category, enti- every edition, or Living Room Cinema to name tled New Visions.” screening a a few possible off-venues. With selection from either a festival pass or different 30,000 guests, 119 films from 41 the official program in every ticket options, you can find your countries were screened and quarter of the country. own way through all the oppor- the festival is still growing. More tunities RIFF has to offer. than 1000 films from all over The Golden Puffin This year RIFF celebrates its the world have been screen­­ Gathering filmmakers, film en­­ 10 year anniversary. The festival ed at RIFF, and over 700 film thusiasts, tourists and locals for a was founded in September pro­fessionals and hundreds of huge eleven day party, RIFF pres- 2004, by a small group of film journa­­lists and reporters, not ents and promotes talent.­­ Each professionals and film enthusi­ to mention film enthusiasts and year the festival jury awards the

42 ı WOW is in the air Issue five ı 43 The future of Icelandic filmmaking

by Dísa Bjarnadóttir Photos: Kristinn Magnússon

have some fresh directors on our cover this issue and what they all have in comm­on is that their short film (or even films) will be screened at RIFF this year. This is a new generation of directors, the future of Icelandic filmmaking. Many of the best directors in Iceland (and the rest of the world) have made their debuts with short films and the short film category at RIFF is a great ven- Weue for the rest of us to get a preview of what’s to come in Icelandic cinema. The Icelandic short film category at RIFF is one of the most interesting aspects of the festival. A total of 19 short films are shown in three separate portions. This is a great venue for discovering fresh talent and surpris- ing new directors who all come together competing for the short film award at RIFF. Every year the question about the best Icelandic short is highly discussed and the decision of who gets the award is keenly awaited. Among what can be seen from the directors featured in this issue is a story of an old widower whose life takes unexpected turns, a film about two young boys stealing a car to explore an abandoned house, a young woman’s explorations of love and the story of a young boy struggling to help his older brother. Filmmaking is a blooming industry in Iceland and viewing the short films made by the newest generation of directors gives us high expectations for the years to come. Send yourself on a trip through unexpected and amazing film moments and enjoy the journey into a composition of dramatic, extraordinary and unorthodox short films.

The cover photo and the individual photos of the direc- tors were shot at the old Bæjarbíó Cinema in Hafnar­ fjörð­ur and we would like to thank The Icelandic Film Archive for their great hospitality and help. Photographer: Kristinn Magnússon Photographer’s assistant: Hákon Davíð Björnsson

44 ı WOW is in the air Issue five ı 45 The future of Icelandic filmmaking

Working yields results We last spoke with Guðmundur Arnar in the early summer this year, when he was heading to Cannes to premiere his short film Whale Valley. Since we spoke, Whale Valley won the Short Film Special Distinction Ex-aequo award in Cannes and has also won the grand prize for a short film in Les Percédies Film Festival, The Golden Spike Award at the 43rd Gifoni Festival in Italy as well as numerous other nominations.

o it’s been a busy summer for Guðmundur and his What does it mean to you to show your film at RIFF? “It’s a great colleagues to whom he credits a great deal of the film’s honor to have our Icelandic premiere at RIFF. It’s a very important success. “Making films is a team venture and it is very festival for Iceland. It nourishes the international film culture in Iceland S important to have good people with you that believe and creates a platform for filmmakers and audiences to come together in the project and are ready to put 110% into it.” Has Guðmundur’s and celebrate films. I’m particularly looking forward to seeing Lukas world dramatically changed? “Well, Cannes opened­­ a lot of doors, for Moodysson, he’s one of my favorite directors.” example when it comes to getting­­ people interested in financing my As for other favorite directors, Guðmundur says that the list is projects, this gives me more credibility as a film maker who can pro- very long and includes among others: Lars Von Trier, Kar Wai Wong, duce the work.” And he’s got a lot going on; these days he’s working James Cameron and Carlos Reygadas. “They are all very different on financing his first full length film called “Heartstone”. He says that from each other and very inspiring in their own way.” He also says he has been working on this script for a long time and, not wanting that there is an abundance of good filmmakers here in Iceland con- to give too much of it away, says it’s about two young boys around sidering what a small nation we are. puberty, growing up in a small Icelandic fishing village, and their con- Do you have any advice for young aspiring filmmakers? “There is flicting new feelings of love and how it affects their friendship. While one thing that I heard older filmmakers saying when I was young that one boy falls for a girl, the other boy falls for his friend. “Ártún” is I couldn’t stand hearing. They always said that this business was so another short film ready to be screened and just waiting for the right hard you shouldn’t go into it unless this was the only thing you could venue. The film tells the story of three young boys growing up in a small do. After about five years of doing this I started thinking that way, but town, how they start smoking and turn themselves into punk rockers the thing is ... if you keep working hard you’ll get results. Working before heading to the city in the hopes of getting girls. yields results. And you have to be fine with making mistakes. It gives One thing that Guðmundur Arnar’s movies have in common is that you the freedom to stop playing it safe. Because if you’re true to they tell the stories of youth. “Whale Valley” shows the main charact­ yourself and your decisions are truly yours, decisions you can stand er, a young boy, who walks in on his older brother attempting to end by, it’s easier to look back at them without regrets even though they his life and the events that follow, “in a family where feelings aren’t were mistakes. Because you feel like you have learned something often discussed,” says Guðmundur. Even though the subject matter valuable. Rather than if you didn’t listen to yourself, which results is serious and heavy he says that the film also has strong love and in you making a mistake. Then you look back in pain, because you tender moments. When asked why he focuses so much on telling the should always follow your own instincts.” stories of young boys, he says, “These are the years that mold you, If you had unlimited budget, what would be your fantasy project? from being a child to being a teenager and then becoming an adult. Guðmundur smiles, “A Viking movie. I’ve started writing it already. At this age you have so little say in the world. You’re not allowed to And it’s fantastic!” make any major decisions because the grown-ups are in charge. Society isn’t built around teenagers, so in many ways it’s a time of “These are the years that mold waiting. These years shaped me so I’ve always wanted to relive you, from being a child to being them and what was going on.” a teenager and then becoming an adult. “

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46 ı WOW is in the air Issue five ı 47 The future of Icelandic filmmaking

48 ı WOW is in the air Something mysterious and unexplained

Marsibil Sæmundardóttir had done various things in her life before she decided to be­­ come a filmmaker. After running a rehab center for teenagers and serving as a member of the city council of Reykjavik she went through some self-reflecting and took time to figure out what she wanted to do. She knew it wasn’t politics. She tried learning project man­agement and life coaching to help her find out what she wanted to do and after a while she realized that she wanted to be creative. Since she’s always loved films, it came naturally that she’d sign up for film school.

arsibil’s debut at RIFF is called “Jón Jónsson” and tells always good to show your work in a festival in your own country. It the story of a widower who has no children and lives adds to the chances that it could be shown at other festivals abroad.” a rather lonely and ordinary life when all of a sudd­­ She adds that she’s looking forward to seeing the other films at RIFF, M en unexpected things turn his life upside down, as of course “Whale Valley” which has been anticipated here in Iceland the synopsis says. Before making this short film, Marsibil directed for quite a while since winning an award at the Cannes Festival, but a film called “Freyja” (also a school project) which tells the story of also she’s looking forward to just being there and seeing as many a pregn­­ant woman who is alone in a new house and is waiting for films as possible. her husband. “It’s a little spooky,” Marsibil says. She adds that so far, what all of her films have in common is that they are what’s called genre fantastique, a French term for literary and cinematic genre “It’s always good to show your that overlaps with science fiction, horror and fantasy. There is always work in a festival in your own some­­­thing mysterious and unexplained in her films. When asked where she gets the ideas for her scripts she says country. It adds to the chances that she starts with certain pre-set notions, such as make it a simple that it could be shown at other film (since it’s a school project with no budget) with a few locations to festi­­vals abroad.” shoot. She says she learned from her experience in film school that it’s possible to tell a really good story with just one person in one location. Marsibil said that she was lucky in many ways with the filming of Marsibil is already hard at work on other projects. She has started “Jón Jónsson”. She got one of Iceland’s seasoned actors, Erlingur a production company with four other women whom she met while Gíslason, to play the main part and claims that his presence does in film school. She’s also been working on a documentary about a wond­ers for the film. Also, while looking for a location she found a man named Bear, who became world famous when he shot a video small house for sale that happened to have been owned by a single of a double rainbow and got millions of views on YouTube. She says old widower who had recently passed away and all his furniture was Bear’s story is remarkable: He’d never left his birthplace, Canada, be- still inside the house. It was exactly as she had imagined it when she fore 2010 and the first foreign country he visited was Iceland. Since wrote the script. She says that at times the crew could almost sense then he’s been in various commercials and visited various countries. the presence of the old man and that he was approving of what they As for why he got so emotional when he saw the double rainbow ... were doing. Marsibil smiles and says “You’ll see it all in the movie.” “Freyja” made the rounds to a few different film festivals, such as If money was no object, what would your fantasy project be? “I one called The Best Shorts Competition where it won an Award don’t want to give it all away just yet ... What I can say is it would be of Merit, and also The Palm Springs International Film Festival and a big budget Icelandic film, based on our sagas, one of those “true” Cannes Short Film Corner. As for what it means for her to have her fantasy-like ones. Currently, I’m preparing an application to get a grant film showing at Reykjavík International Film Festival, she says, “It’s for this project.”

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Issue five ı 49 The future of Icelandic filmmaking

“I get to wake up every day, go to work and be excited about it” This year Freyr Árnason will be showing a short film he directed called “Strýta” at RIFF. He says it’s hard for him to say much about the film without giving away too much about the plot so what he’ll share is that it’s about two young boys who decide to steal a car and go explore an abandoned house in their town. The film was a graduation project for a student in the Icelandic Film School named Sigurður Már Davíðsson who was the Director of Photography for the film.

“Strýta” was filmed in the town of Djúpivogur, where Valdimar Kúld, the producer of the film, had also been working with Sigurður Már is from. According to Freyr the whole the director Guðmundur Arnar on his film “Ártún” so he knew some town deserves credit because the people there were kids from that film. We ended up using two of the kids from that film, S very helpful – lending clothing for props, letting the not because they were in Ártún but just because they were really crew film into their homes and even changing things around when good.” In the first scene the kids can be seen driving a car, how did needed. Special mention goes to the hotel manager at Hótel Framtíð, Freyr manage that? “That car was being pulled by a pick-up truck. who housed and fed the crew. “The man is a genius,” says Freyr. We put the camera on the truck to film the kids so it looked like they But filming wasn’t without challenges. “It hadn’t snowed in Djúpi­ were driving - another thing we couldn’t have done if it hadn’t been vogur for a really long time but all of a sudden we had a snowstorm. for the help of the people in Djúpivogur.” It made everything rather difficult, but we decided to film in the What is it like to be a young filmmaker in Iceland? “Right now I snow­storm anyway. Some of the scenes that seem to be filmed work for Tjarnargata, which is a production company. I’m involved in decent weather are actually shot under horrible circumstances in the making of a lot of music videos. One music video, featuring where we could barely stand straight. We had one Dane in our crew Emmsjé Gauti, was premiered recently. I’m working with Einar Bragi who repeatedly exclaimed we were crazy when we decided to go Rögnvaldsson and Árni Gestur Sigfússon and I get to wake up every out and film in this weather.” day, go to work and be excited about it,” says Freyr. When asked about his favorite directors Freyr says, “Tarantino is re- “Tarantino is really good, and Guy ally good, and Guy Ritchie, even though not all of his stuff is brilliant, the good stuff really is. As for Icelandic directors, Hafsteinn Gunnar Ritchie, even though not all of his Sigurðsson who made “Á annan veg” (Either Way) is really good. He stuff is brilliant, the good stuff was one of my best teachers when I was in the Icelandic Film School really is.” and I learned a lot from him. Baltasar Kormákur has been doing really good things and Friðrik Þór [Friðriksson] has made some really good movies too.” The main characters are all children and Freyr says that there was If you had endless budget what would your dream project be? “A a lot of pressure on them with the long filming days but they all did a film about Death Row Records, the music production company in Los really good job and it was very fun to work with them. “We had been Angeles.” going around to schools looking for kids and then it happened that

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50 ı WOW is in the air Issue five ı 51 The future of Icelandic filmmaking

52 ı WOW is in the air “Everything about this business excites me”

Gunna Helga Sváfnisdóttir comes from a very creative family which she looks to in her own creations. She even thinks the family is under some sort of a spell making them unable to stick to just one medium when it comes to their creativity. Gunna Helga writes scripts, directs movies and paints and says that her enrollment to The Icelandic Film School was kind of an accident.

saw an advertisement for the school at a time when right now that has nothing to do with films and I am going to follow I was at a crossroads in my life. I’d always wanted to through with it along with making some music videos. I would really make music videos and even when I was younger I like to go abroad to learn more but I am open to everything. I would I found them very appealing. I saw this as an opportunity just as much like to do the catering as to be on the roadblocks for to do something related to my love for music and I’ve never regret- a production. I just love being on set. I love the energy that goes ted a single second of it,” says Gunna Helga. with it. Of course I want to direct but everything about this business Gunna Helga has two films screening at RIFF, “Monika” and “Gabrí­ excites me. ella”. We asked her about “Gabríella” first. “After I graduated Sigga “I love making music videos and recently got the chance to make Björk [Sigurðardóttir] asked me to direct her final project in the acting one with SísíEy to the song “Ain’t got nobody”. It’s available on you- department called “Gabríella”. I wrote a new script based on her orig- tube. My passion definitely lies in music videos. I’m not sure if I’ve inal idea in collaboration with my Uncle Erpur Sigurðarson. “Gabrí­ developed any one style to my projects yet. I love trying new things, ella” is the story of a young girl who is sexually abused by her friend testing boundaries, and I’m not afraid to make mistakes. It’s just and the aftermath where she gets kind of lost within her own head as much fun getting silly results after experimenting, and learning but then she starts to claw her way back to the real world. Sigga and something in the process, as it is getting it “right”. I have done proj- I worked a lot on the creation of the character. We improvised, and ects that I seriously can’t watch without shuddering and others that I I even made her go to the mall as different characters putting her in still love to this day … and anything in between.” very uncomfortable situations. I gained a lot of experience from this Where do you get inspiration? “My all time favorite movie is Natu- project, you learn so much from collaborating with other people,” ral Born Killers by Oliver Stone. That movie definitely made its mark says Gunna Helga. When we asked her to tell us about “Monika” she on me. But on the whole, everything can inspire me. Sometimes said, “‘Monika’ is my baby. It took a lot of creative time and effort and when I’m painting I get a feeling that later becomes an idea for a here I also wrote the script with my Uncle Erpur. This was kind of a project and sometimes a project can inspire an idea for a painting.” family production, some of the locations are at the homes of family Do you think this business welcomes young directors and pro­ members; my grandmother plays a part in the movie, my father ducers or is it just a lot of struggle? “It’s a struggle to get into this composed the music and my cousin Hrefna produced it with me. business but isn’t that true for any industry? You have to work hard, These are some of the reasons the film is so dear to me. The story is get a lot of experience, prove yourself and eventually you will gain about a young woman who has always been a model citizen, a good ground. As a director you usually have to make your own projects. daughter, wife, student and employee. She starts resisting this image It’s not like applying for a job, but you do have to apply for funding, when all this perfectness starts to become too much for her, realizing find a good crew and get to know as many people as you possibly that up until now every aspect of her life has been valued by very trivial can. That really increases the possibility of work coming your way. standards: grades, the opinions of other, paychecks … She goes on a And you have to love what you do.” spiritual journey that is trying but in the end well worth it,” explains Gunna If you had an unlimited budget, what would your dream project Helga and adds that she is very excited about the screenings at RIFF. be? “I have this script I wrote along with a few fellow students in film “RIFF is a great venue for me to see what others are doing, meeting school. It’s called “Discopolitan” and we would need a giant set and directors and producers and others who are in this business.” 300-400 professional dancers. That’s my dream project and I hope What comes next? “I am definitely staying in this business and I on day it becomes a reality.” hope to make more movies, however I am getting into a little project

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Issue five ı 53 Atli Bollason, producer of this year’s RIFF, studied English literature and film at Concordia University in Montreal and has worked on and off for the festival since 2005. We got the chance to ask Atli some important questions.

It takes at least a miracle or two Photo: Hákon Davíð Björnsson

Q: What is your favorite RIFF-mo­ a feasible number. But our select­ ment? ion is much more. We usually A: “Once we had a very famous have more than 80 films on the Finnish director as an honorary schedule and frankly they are all guest at RIFF. He came to my pretty good. The highest number house for an after-party. We had I ever heard was 40 movies. You a fatigue- and alcohol-fuelled can achieve that by seeing 3-4 con­versation in the wee hours in movies every single day of the my kitchen. I had these packets of festival.” Royal instant pudding sitting in my kitchen window as decoration and Q: Have you ever panicked while in his drunken state he claimed working for RIFF? this classic design to be the only A: “Yes. Planning and organizing beautiful thing left in the world. It RIFF always takes at least a mira- was a very Scandinavian moment, cle or two. Personally, I al­­ways ex- except that we were not naked perience a little bit of a panic each and we did not stab each other.” year. We have tried­­ to increase the number of German­­ volunteers Q: Why do you have a puffin in to reduce the number of panic at- the RIFF-logo? tacks but hearing English spoken A: “There are two reasons. Firstly, with a German accent tends to the puffin is a well-known sym­­bol in­­crease the panic. I guess there of Iceland. Souvenir stores in is no way out.” Iceland are even called “puffin­- stores” by locals because they Q: Who is your favorite Ice­­­l­andic usually have puffin dolls in the filmmaker? windows. Secondly, we chose A: “There are many good ones. I the puffin because it is al­­ways think I will have to say Friðrik Þór dressed up. It shares the “tuxe- Friðriksson though, because he do-look” with the penguin. So it’s was both quirky and mainstream classy and film-like.” enough to put Iceland on the map as a film-country.” Q: Which do you like more, ­fea­ture films or documentaries? Q: Which do you like more while A: “I like documentaries a lot. I watching a movie, popcorn or don’t even have to like the topic candy? they are dealing with. A good A: “The answer is nachos drenched­­ documentary infuses interest in delicious cheese sauce.” re­­­­gardless. That said, I think most of my favorite films of all time are feature films.” “We chose the puffin because it is Q: How many films do you think always dressed up. the average ticket-holder sees for the duration of RIFF? It shares the “tux­ A: “I hope people see at least one edo-look” with the film per day, so 11 films should be penguin.” 54 ı WOW is in the air Laugarnes

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Rauðarárstígur There’s a broad selection of films at this year’s Reykja­­ ­ vík Interna­ti­onal Film Festi- val. There are so many good ones that people might find choosing, difficult. While most people make up their own personal list of what they want to see, if you don’t have the time or if you want to see what we come up with, WOW air brings you it’s very own “must-see” list. This list includes feature films and docu­mentaries, films from different­ countries, award- winn­ing arty films and just general crowd-pleasers. What they all have in common is that they are very well made films that are good to watch. We present to you, the WOW picks!

56 ı WOW is in the air We are the best (VI ÄR BÄST)

It’s hard to believe that it’s already been 15 years since Swedish director Lukas Moodysson’s breakout debut “Fucking Amal” captured our hearts. Moodysson­ is best known for dramatic movies such as “Lilya 4 ever” and “A hole in my heart” but in “We are the Best” he aims for similarly optimistic mood as he did in his film “Together” (“Tilsammans”), claimed to be one of his most accessible and warmest works. “We are the Best” is based on a graphic novel by the director’s wife, Coco Moodysson, called “Never Goodnight” (“Aldrig Godnatt”) and follows 12-13 year old Bobo, Klara and Hedvig who roam the streets of Stockholm in 1982. These girls are all at once brave, tough, strong, weak, confused and weird. Bobo has had to deal with her troubled adolescence and her best friend Klara, like Bobo, proudly refuses to fit in with the other kids at school. They love punk rock and want to form their own band. When they meet Hedvig, a talented classical guitar player they convert her to rock music and persuade her to cut off her hair, infuriating her mother. Then they form their punk band with the motto “Punk never died”. Moodysson has a gift when it comes to depicting and representing the life of young people realistically. The girls, on that threshold between childhood and adult life are captured so realistically that the viewer can’t help but return to his own youth, awakening nostalgic memories. “I wanted to make a film showing that life – despite all evidence to the contrary – is worth living. It’s wonderful to have a friend, wonderful to play an instrument without knowing how, wonderful to set fire to an old statue, wonderful to have the most annoying parents in the world, wonderful to throw up on someone’s records, wonderful to be booed and mocked, wonderful to be the best.” – Lukas Moodysson

WOWpicks Director: Lukas Moodysson (SWE) 2013 / min

Lukas Moodysson is one of RIFF’s guests of honor and he will be pre­sent­ed with an award of creative exce­llence at the festival. As part of its schedule RIFF will also screen two of Moodysson’s former films “Container” and “Fucking Åmål” (English title: “Show Me Love”). Lukas Moodysson will have a master class as well as giving Q&A during a screening of his films.

Issue five ı 57 WOWpicks Director: Ritesh Batra (IND) 2013 / 104 min

The Lunchbox A mistaken delivery in Mumbai’s famously efficient lunchbox delivery system connects a young housewife to an old man in the twilight of his life and they build a fantasy world to­ gether through notes in the lunchbox. Gradually, this fantasy begins to threaten their reality. A beautiful and artistic feel-good movie that touches the heart yet does not fall into the trap of being all about the food. Ritesh Batra adds the right amount of humor needed without trying too hard to please the viewers. As a whole, the movie is a visual treat where each frame is used to the fullest.

58 ı WOW is in the air Winter is coming.

magazine.66north.is #66north Blue is the Warmest Color (La vie d’adele) Adèle is a 15-year-old girl who aspires to become a teacher, but her life is turned upside down when she meets Emma, a blue-haired art student at a nearby college, who instigates a romance. This three hour drama won the Palme d’Or at the 2013 Cannes Film Festival, and became the first film to be awarded the prize for both the director and the main actresses. Make no mistake that this movie is long and some might say that the actual story could have been told in a much shorter movie. That, however, was not Abdellatif Kechiche’s intent. Instead he leads the audience through an intensely focused study of a relationship immersing them fully in every miniscule detail of it. The faint of heart might want to avert their eyes as Kechiche leaves little if anything to the imagination while demonstrating­ the powerful influence of sexual desire on the emotions. This is a masterpiece of a movie with committed performances and brilliant­ characterization, composed but at the same time bursting with life.

WOWpicks Director: Abdellatif Kechiche (FRA) 2013 / 187

60 ı WOW is in the air WOWpicks Director: Robert Ingi Douglas (ICE / IRE / CHI) 2013 / 94 min

This is Sanlitun Icelandic director Robert Ingi Douglas returns with a comedy set in China. Gary is in Beijing to make it big. After failing­ to impress his Chinese invest­ors he soon takes up teaching­ English and getting life lessons from Frank, an incompetent mentor. Gary’s real reasons for staying be- come apparent when his son and Chinese ex-wife enter the picture. If the members of Spinal Tap had decided to become busi­nessmen and English teachers in Beijing circa the early Woody Allen-era “This is Sanlitun” would be their movie … well, almost.

Issue five ı 61 WOWpicks Director: Christoffer Boe (DEN) 2013 / 110 min

Sex, Drugs and Taxation (Spies & Glistrup)

The true story about the spectacular friendship between two notorious Danes: the lawyer-turned-politician Mogens Glistrup, and the “travel king”, millionaire, womanizer and public provocateur, Simon Spies. Despite their different ways of life, Glistrup and Spies become best friends, and together they turn Spies Travels into one of the most profitable travel agencies in Scandinavia during the 1960s and 70s. When Glistrup goes public that he doesn’t pay taxes – “and nobody should!” - their business collabor­ ation and friendship face an impossible challenge. It’s a shocking, often hysterical but always compelling quasi-biopic where Christoffer Boe daringly explores the power of memory – and its capacity to mold an individual’s (and even a whole country’s) perception of reality.

62 ı WOW is in the air Director: Christoffer Boe (DEN) 2013 / 110 min

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Caroline has retired, at last. A new life lies before her; time to take care of her children, her husband, and, most of all, herself. However, she soon comes to realize that this new free- dom is synonymous with boredom and idleness, especially when she receives a member- ship to her neighborhood’s senior club as a birthday present. Reluctant at first, she never- theless decides to take the plunge. Oddly enough, she meets great people there, starting with the young computer science teacher, who is far from insensitive to her charms. Fanny Ardant, in the role of Caroline, and the rest of the terrific cast hold up this “coming- of-old-age” dramedy. This is definitely one of the more convincing portraits of senior love to come out in recent years and it kind of leaves the viewer hopeful for the future. If aging is anything like this, bring it on!

WOWpicks Director: Marion Vernoux (FRA) 2013 / 94 min

64 ı WOW is in the air WOWpicks Director: Liz Garbus (USA / FRA) 2012 / 107 min

Marilyn Monroe invented her public persona at the expense of concealing a private side known only to her close confidants. Drawing on never-before-seen personal papers, Love, diaries and letters, director Liz Garbus worked with acclaimed actresses to evoke the multiple aspects of the real Marilyn - passion, ambition, soul-searching, power and fear. These documents, brought to life in this film by some of our contemporary icons and stars, give us a new and revelatory understanding of Monroe. Marilyn Of all the stars in Hollywood’s history Marilyn Monroe was probably the most glamo­ rous and her story the most tragic. Anyone remotely familiar with Marilyn Monroe will appreciate the insights this move provides into her private life. The readings from her personal and surprisingly well articulated journals are particularly enlightening giving the viewer a different and seldom seen perspective of the actual person behind the Hollywood image.

Issue five ı 65 Greedy Lying Bastards

Climate change is no longer a prediction for the future, but a startling reality of today. Yet, as evidence of our changing climate mounts and the scientific consensus proves human causation, there con­tinues to be little political action to thwart the warming of our plane “Greedy Lying Bastards” is a documentary detailing the people and organizations casting doubt on climate science and claims that greenhouse gases are not affected by human behavior. It investi­ gates the climate change misinformation campaign waged by the oil industry and its funded think tanks. The film exposes how a small number of well paid spokespeople have worked to confuse the public and lawmakers on the issue. Both ExxonMobil and Koch Industries are identified in the film as two of the worst culprits funding the denial campaign. In addition to exposing the denial campaign, Greedy Lying Bastards tells the stories of those currently impacted by changing climate. These include residents of Kivalina, Alaska who are faced with relocation due to erosion of shorelines caused from rising temperatures and those on the island of Tuvalu facing sea level rise. The film also covers the 2012 wildfires in Colorado, drought in Kansas and Hurricane Sandy. The urgency is clear and director and activist Craig Rosenbraugh doesn’t even try to be subtle launching his attack on those who deny the existence of climate-change. He’s not afraid to name names and detail the tactics used by organizations and individuals to misinform the masses. A fast paced and tightly edited narrative that really holds the viewers attention.

WOWpicks Director: Craig Rosebraugh (USA) 2012 / 89 min

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he venue is Laugardals­ movie und­er water? Go deeper, laug, the biggest indoor hold your breath and duck your pool in Iceland. It offers head under the water. Back- Ta lot of space for speed stroke through the wet environ- swimming as well as just paddl­ ment and relax as the movie ing around and on this evening sound will be all around you. it will host a screening of the hil­ Come to soak and relax while arious 1980’s classic “Airplane”. the movie’s atmosphere will be Members of the WOW air cabin recreated in the surroundings crew will be on the premises to of the pool. If you don’t know insure everyone has a pleasant how to get your mind into a flight. This is a unique oppor­­ movie-watching mode, don’t tunity to enjoy the film from a worry. To set you in the mood, to the Future.” At your next totally unconventional way! We totally new angle. You can either live music will accompany your norm­al cinema visit, you will try apologize in advance for the lack just relax in the water and enjoy swim from 7:30 PM onward. The to paddle through the audience of popcorn! the movie or you can ex­­peri­ annual Swim-in Cinema now tak­­ and wond­er, why everyone ment with all the possibili­ties this es place for the fifth time. Past is wearing so many clothes! The Swim-in Cinema is a one-time only event during the festival, and takes creative atmos­phere gives you. movies include the likes of “A Just put on your swimsuit and place on September 28. Tickets are Have you ever listened to a Never Ending Story” and “Back experience a classic movie in a available at www.riff.is. 68 ı WOW is in the air Reykjavik's Thermal Pools

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he Reykjavik International Film How low will you go for a movie? trip includes a short hike and cancellation, Festi­val hosts a series of special The trip will commence in downtown Reykja­ though unlikely, could always occur based events during the eleven days it vik where the RIFF staff and guides from the on weather conditions. Included in the trip Twill be runn­ing, along with regular festival’s collaborator, Arctic Adventures, are hot drinks and light snacks. Further screenings. This year the festival will offer will meet and greet guests and depart with information and tickets can be bought at a truly unique film experience, a special a bus to the secret cave in the outskirts of www.riff.is. screening in a mysterious opening in the Reykjavik. A light hike follows for about 15 ground, referred to as the cave-in cinema minutes until the destination is reached and A perfect opportunity to mix a cin­ (reminiscent of the drive-in cinema except a screening will commence deep in this crater. ematic experience with the unique inside, underground and with no wheels). The cave-in cinema is a perfect opportuni­ Icelandic environment. RIFF staff has put to­gether a special secret ty to mix a cinematic experience with the program for the event especially fitted for unique Icelandic surroundings. Guests this environment. are advised to be properly dressed as the 70 ı WOW is in the air

Out of bounds with Ásdís

The Hors Pistes, an international project for mutual enrichment celebrat­­ ­­ ing cross cultural perspect­ i­ves,­­ will collaborate with RIFF this year showing screenings of video art. Artist Ásdís Sif Gunnarsdóttir,­ chosen to present her video-art at RIFF will have the same program shown at Hors Pistes in the Centre Pompidou in Paris in January 2014. That screening will be a part of the Icelandic­­ annual cultural Festival “Air d’Islande”.

orn 1976 in Madison, Wisconsin, USA, Festival in 2010. The works from Ásdís Sif Gunn­ Ásdís Sif Gunnarsdóttir studied at arsdóttir that are going to be shown at RIFF UCLA in Los Angeles and at the School and Hors Pistes are “Horfinn Hljómur” (from Bof Visual Arts in New York. She lives 2013), “For Your Eyes Only” (2012), “Improvised, and works in Reykja­vik and is known for her Im­mediate Past” (2011), “Vertigo” (2010) and performances, taking place in unconventional “Laugarvatn, Trufluð Mynd” (2009). places. Her video installations consisting of The program will be screened at Slip Cinema at the three dimensionality and visual psychedelic Reykjavik Marina Hotel from September 30 and on­ poetry also brought her to the Berlinale Film wards during the festival.

Ásdís Sif Gunnarsdóttir. A still from “Horfinn Hljómur”.

72 ı WOW is in the air WELCOME TO OUR TRULY SPECIAL WORLD

BOOK YOUR TICKET ONLINE & SAVE TIME FOR RELAXING RIFF PROGRAMME 2013 RIFF PROGRAMME 2013 Nature plays its part

76 ı WOW is in the air Gloomy ventures Filming in Iceland Described by Led Zeppelin as “the land of the ice and snow from the mid­ night sun where the hot springs flow”, the ravishing and peculiar landscape of Iceland­­ has inspired the works of artists and sci­ entists­ for ages.

by Hjördís Erna Þorgeirsdóttir Photos: Courtesy of True North Film

n Jules Verne’s 1864 sci-fi novel, A Journey to the Cent­ er of the Earth, the passage Ito the center of the earth is via the enigmatic Snæfellsjökull glacier. It was only a matter of time before the versatile and dramatic features of the Iceland­ ic landscape would be rediscov- ered as the epic background of Hollywood blockbusters.

Motion madness During the last few years there has been a significant increase in the demand for filming locations in Iceland from major studios. There are various rea- sons behind this development including a 20% tax rebate of production costs and a weak currency. The rebate system is considered simple, transparent and quick in delivery. Addition- ally there is a selection of skilled Icelandic people and profession- als that have been collaborating with foreign film crews. Then there’s the unearthly landscape, delicate and coarse at the same time, unpredictable weather and the thrilling inter- action of light and dark. These contrasting features and the geographical isolation create an apocalyptic atmosphere, adding to the lure of this dynamic island and making Iceland a particular- ly popular destination for sci-fi, thriller and fantasy projects. In 1985 Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon (on the border of Vatna­ jökull National Park), was used as a location for the Bond movie “A View to a Kill”. In the years Issue five ı 77 Nature plays its part

that followed and during the 1990’s there were very few major film productions. It wasn’t until after the return of a trans- formed Bond in “Die Another Day” in 2002 and “Lara Croft: Tomb Raider” in 2001 (both films also used the glacier lagoon as a location) that a new era of filming in Iceland began. Vatnajökull National Park con- tinued to attract fictional heroes and in 2005, parts of the glacier (on Svínafellsjökull glacier) were even used to portray the Hima- layas in “Batman Begins”. Since then the projects have steadily been increasing and getting bigger­ with Hollywood films such

attracted geologists for a long been chosen as the setting for time. In 1965 and 1967 American “Game of Thrones”, although astronauts in the Apollo pro- winter is definitely coming. Last gram, including Neil Armstrong, summer, Þingvellir, one of the pre­­pared for the anticipated most important historical and moon landing in the volcanic cultural sites in Iceland, was Askja and Lake Mývatn area. us­­ed as a location for the show’s upcoming 4th season. Beyond epic Intense and fragile, like the Mývatn and Vatnajökull have power struggle in “Game of Price further been the setting for Thrones”, Þingvellir rests on Northern Lights Mystery ** AH33 20:00- 5.400 ISK 01:00 many of the chilling Beyond-the- the geologic rift that separates Wall scenes in HBO’s “Game Europe and North America. Such as Ridley Scott’s “Prometheus”, contrasts of “mossy mountains, of Thrones”. Einar Sveinn, features and the accompanying Tom Cruise’s “Oblivion”, “Star with black sands and snowdrifts marketing director at Pegasus volcanic activity make Iceland a Trek Into the Darkness” and Ben on top” says Þór. film who has been collaborating particularly vivid, almost animat- Stiller’s “Secret Life of Walt­­er Another unique feature of with the HBO crew, describes ed, setting. Mitty”. Upcoming films in­­clude filming in Iceland is the lighting it as a great project with a mo­­ After all, this is the landscape “Thor: The Dark World” and conditions. The midnight sun tivated team. The large-scale that inspired stories of trolls, “Interstellar”. and relentless brightness during production has required a crew hybrids and other mythological summer maximizes filming of 200-300 people, more than creatures. Such supernatural Cosmic features oppor­­tunities but it’s usually the half of whom are Icelandic, to stories, while contributing to The vast and rugged terrain of vibr­­ant sky that truly fascinates work diligently under all weather the literature and storytelling the highlands with glaciers, hot observers. From the Aurora springs and clusters of seeming- Borealis­ to the psychedelic twi- ly out of place vegetation, are light, the flaring skies are nothing becoming one of the biggest short of glorious. Þór mentions attractions. Surrounded by abso­ how people become instantly lute and unparalleled silence, fascinated by the colors of the this “volcanic desert”, the former sky that intensify during late home of notorious outlaws, is summer and fall. To Reykjavík City simultaneously­­ soothing and There are also many impres- uncanny. sive waterfalls (and rivers) in Cheapest & easieast way from terminal to terminal* Although the glaciers are al­­ Ice­­land which Þór claims to be a Transfers are available after each incoming flight. ways popular, according to Þór strong factor. In “Promotheus”, conditions. The series has even tradition, were one of the main Tickets available at our tour desk located in the arrival hall. Kjartansson, location manager director Ridley Scott chose the been shot in November with sources of entertainment for the at True North film, new features magnificent Dettifoss, claimed only four hours of sunlight. Icelandic people throughout the are being explored in these to be one of the most powerful The show’s dramatic theme centuries. Now this spectacular Airport Express Transfer AH100 Price from South Coast, Waterfalls & Glacier Hike AH34 Price 08:30- desolate areas. “For a long time ­waterfalls in Europe, as the setting is nicely echoed in the grand landscape at the edge of the 1.800 ISK Ca. 45 min. 20.900 ISK 19:30 it was the glaciers and black for the prehistoric scenes in the glacial landscape with features world continues to serve as the beaches that were our main movie. The volcanic landscape such as scenic clouds, divine picturesque background for com­­modities” but now custom- surrounding Vatnajökull National yet eerie, that are often more dramatic narratives enjoyed by #Iceland ers are becoming more captivat- Park, considered reminiscent intense as it gets colder. But it’s audiences from all around the Excursions Visit our Sales Office at Lækjartorg Square. Book your tours online at ed by the bleakness and strong of the lunar surface, has also not just the glaciers that have world. www.grayline.is or call us at +354 540 1313 Free Wi-Fi #GrayLine *From Keflavík Airport Terminal to Iceland Excursions Bus Terminal 78 ı WOW is in the air ONBOARD Iceland **Second tour free of charge if no Northern Lights appear during your trip Northern Lights Mystery ** AH33 Price 20:00- 5.400 ISK 01:00

To Reykjavík City Cheapest & easieast way from terminal to terminal* Transfers are available after each incoming flight. Tickets available at our tour desk located in the arrival hall.

Airport Express Transfer AH100 Price from South Coast, Waterfalls & Glacier Hike AH34 Price 08:30- 1.800 ISK Ca. 45 min. 20.900 ISK 19:30

#Iceland Excursions Visit our Sales Office at Lækjartorg Square. Book your tours online at www.grayline.is or call us at +354 540 1313 Free Wi-Fi #GrayLine *From Keflavík Airport Terminal to Iceland Excursions Bus Terminal ONBOARD Iceland **Second tour free of charge if no Northern Lights appear during your trip Friðrik Þór Friðriksson

From cult to culture When it comes to Iceland’s short but blooming history of film-making there is one name that is likely to be mentioned fairly early: Friðrik Þór Friðriksson, the first Icelander to be nominated for an Academy Award. Friðrik has been making films since he was a teenager, starting in 1975 (at age 19) and he’s still going strong.

by Dísa Bjarnadóttir Photos: Heiða Helgadóttir and Birtíngur Photo Archive

riðrik Þór gathered zens who meet in a retirement Army left behind after WWII, all Iceland because his parents had both attention and home and realize that they knew colorful characters including a died there years earlier, “Movie shock in 1980 when each other in their youth. They fortune teller and her slew of Days” a film that depicts a young his short film Brennu decide to escape the retirement kids and grandkids. The other, boy and his experience of the Njáls Saga (The Story home and return to where they “Angels of the Universe”, tells world through Hollywood mov- of Burnt Njal) was grew up. In a television interview the story of mental illness, which ies and then “Mamma Gógó” an Fshown on national television. in 2005 Friðrik Þór said that he affected the brother of Einar Már autobiographical piece about a The film had the same name first got the idea when he was Guðmundsson, whom Friðrik film director whose mother gets as one of the most well-known a teenager and made a board had been friends with since they Alzheimer’s. Icelandic sagas, which features game for his school maga­­zine were little boys. Much more could be said about murders, revenge, battles and where one of the possibilities And the list goes on, includ- Friðrik Þór than this short article a traumatic house fire in the was to land on a square that ing “Cold Fever” the story of a allows, however, watching­­ his Viking times. Therefore, people said “you meet your long lost Japanese­­ man who comes­­ to films is a much better option. natur­ally assumed that his film childhood­­­­ sweetheart in the old would be based on the saga, folks’ home, move ahead three which it was, in a way. The film spaces.” shows two hands picking up a decorated version of the saga and setting fire to it. For the re­­mainder of the film all that’s shown on screen is the book burn­ing. Needless to say, after this little stunt, people didn’t know quite what to make of Friðrik Þór. Rokk í Reykjavík However, he continued to documented young make films and a film which has artists (among since become a timeless histori­ cal piece depicting Icelandic ­others, Björk) talk­ music, youth and the influence ing about their of punk came out in 1982: Rokk í ­music, lives, and Reykjavík. It documented young often drugs. artists (among others, Björk) talking about their music, lives, riðrik’s career spans and often drugs. The film has decades more and even become a timeless cult classic. though he burned a Many of the people depicted Ffamous­­­­ book, he’s made in the film have been making films based on famous books by music ever since and became two of Iceland’s most renowned really well-known writers: Einar Már Guðmunds­­ In 1991 Friðrik Þór got an Aca­ son and Einar Kárason. One of demy Award nomination for his them, “Devil’s Island”, depicts film “Children of Nature” which the lives of the people who tells a story of two senior citi- settled in the “houses” the US Friðrik Þór got an Aca­demy Award nomination for his film “Children of Nature”. 80 ı WOW is in the air MoneyGram – now at Iceland Post The services of MoneyGram are now available at Iceland Post. MoneyGram offers a safe and easy way to send money to 198 countries around the world. HVÍTA HÚSIÐ / SÍA – 13–2541 HÚSIÐ / SÍA HVÍTA

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The National Film Archive of Iceland

Our readers might be wondering why the up-and-coming film makers on the cover were shot with old-school film paraphernalia all around them and to tell you the truth it just seemed right even if none of them work with films any more. Films are what we associate with motion pictures, an association that has been branded on our brains from birth. This also made a great opportunity to set up a meeting between the old and the new and what better place to house that meeting than the old Bæjarbíó cinema, the screening premises for The National Film Archive of Iceland.

n the town of Hafnarfjörður land, enforcing deposit laws on there’s a hidden gem films and film related material, known as The National Film providing screenings of Icelan- Archive of Iceland. The dic and foreign films, preserving Archive is a state institution and restoring its film collection, and has been operating providing facilities for academics since 1978. A member of and professionals for research Ithe International Federation purposes and promoting film of Film Archives (FIAF) the Ar- culture in Iceland. chive’s responsibilities, amongst To promote film culture you others, are collecting, register- need a cinema and the old ing and preserving Icelandic Bæjar­bíó Cinema in Hafnarfjörð­ winter season, every Tuesday it, if not for the film screenings films, collaborations between ur certainly does the trick. The night at 8 PM and Saturday then just to have a look at a Icelandic and foreign entities National Film Archive screens afternoons at 4 PM. A visit to the restored theater from the mid and foreign films filmed in Ice- movies twice a week during the Bæjarbíó Cinema is well worth 20th century. When the theater 82 ı WOW is in the air The exhibition in the Cinema is 500 IKR and the cinema hall consists cinema opens half an hour prior Your paradise for high fashion of posters from Russ­ to screening time. For more in- formation see www.kvikmynda­ ian films and exam­ safn.is. ples of screening … board style! apparatus and other The future things coming Like all film archives in the world from MÍR. The National Film Archive of Ice- land is facing dramatic changes due to digital technologies in was reconstructed to its original production, post-production, design every effort was made to distribution and consumption preserve the beautiful interior, of audio-visual material. This wall paintings in the hall and rais­­es new challenges related to other specifics that give it a real long-term preservation in terms historic character. The Bæjar­ of what material to preserve and bíó Cinema opened in 1945 how to guarantee future access and from the very beginning its to this particular heritage. The revenue from film screenings bulk of the Archive’s collection was used for the development is on celluloid film, well placed in of a retirement home in Hafnar­ climate-controlled dark storage, Promotion fjörður. This season a small exhibition that complements the screening program is in the hall of the cinema.. This winter is “Russian Winter” in Bæjarbíó Cinema, devoted to old and new Russian films, many of which are dubbed in English but others with English or Icelandic subtitles. In rare cases When visiting Iceland be sure not to miss such attract­ ions as the Blue Lagoon, Golden Circle tours and of The National Film Archive course one of Iceland’s most popular store, Brim. Located on Laugavegur, snowboards­­ just to name a few. Reykja­vík’s most trendy shopp­ If you forgot to pack your bath- ing street, this two floor 360 sq. ing gear or even outerwear, or meter shop offers more vari­ety­ just want to see what’s brand than most in Europe when it new in the world of board- comes to board fashion for all sports, be sure to stop by at ages. Here you will find soft Brim. goods along with hard goods from over 20 major brands Brim which all have one thing in Laugavegur 71 and Kringlan common. They are all connect- shopping center ed to skate, snow and surf. 101 Reykjavík This 15 year old store has Tel: 5517060 some parts of the screenings­ but the Film Archive has decid- distribution contracts straight from the manufactures, for have Icelandic voice over. The ed to take the initiative and use all their brands, making them “Russian Winter” is an opportunity­ new ODA technologies from able to offer better prices than to explore the largest collection Sony to preserve contemporary the neighboring countries in of films ever donated to the film production, our future film northern Europe. Film Archive. The collection was heritage. Labels include such giants as donated a few years ago by MÍR Billabong, Element, 686, Rome SDS, Bataleon and Lobster (The Cultural Liaison of Iceland This rais­­es new chal­ and Russia). These screenings­­ also celebrate 70 years of diplo- lenges related to matic relations between­­ Iceland long-term preserva­ and Russia. The exhibition in the tion in terms of what cinema hall consists­­ of posters material to preserve from Russian films and exam- and how to guarantee ples of screening apparatus and other things coming from MÍR. future access to this Entrance fee to the Bæjarbíó particular heritage. Issue five ı 83 Roadblock Iceland

It is called being “in the business” when you work in the film industry in Iceland. For you to stay in the business you need to be cool. You also have to be able to stay awake for long hours, endure the cold weather and work Bringing balance under lots of pressure for months. to the business Interview by Auður Jónsdóttir Photo: Heiða Helgadóttir

sually it was Halldóra Lena: Earlier this year, but filmmaking kept pulling me Hrefna: The work we do is the same group around the Edda Awards [The back so in the end I decided to stressful but that’s the nature of of filmmakers Icelandic Film and TV Awards], go to film school. the game. And we’re used to it. that worked there was a lot of talk about the Halldóra Lena: I am going to So this environment is familiar on all Icelan- lack of women in this so-called blame my dad as well. He is a film territory. dic as well as business. producer and I moved to Ireland, Halldóra Lena: Except we will be Uforeign films that were shot in Sunna Guðrún: Female execu- where he lived, when I was nine. in charge – men can become so Iceland. But after filming foreign tives to be exact. I went to a Catholic school and dominating. blockbusters over here got so Halldóra Lena: Yes, and young at one point got an acting part in Sunna Guðrún: You can find popular, the amount of people people. a German soap opera that was endless examples of chauvinism working in the business has Hrefna: And obviously we want filmed there. That’s how I realized in this line of work. Like in the grown considerably. Three wom- to be the ones in charge. Be the I wanted to become an actress. words of an acquaintance of en, all of whom have worked bosses! Years later I studied acting in mine: “There is no point getting a on foreign blockbusters have Halldóra Lena: Of course, we Hamburg but my acting career is guy to do the catering, is there?” now created their own produc- wanted to produce our own going slowly so I decided to work Halldóra Lena smirks: Catering tion company. Their names are scripts, but the work and devel­ in producing as well. is actually a very demanding Hrefna Hagalín, Sunna Guðrún opment of a project takes a Sunna Guðrún: My story is really job. You have to be sure there’s Pétursdóttir and Halldóra Lena long time. So, to begin with we the opposite. I went to the Com- enough coffee and something to Christians and their idea for the decided to limit ourselves with mercial College of Iceland and munch with it, food, drinks and company came up last Easter, producing other people’s scripts realized that office work did not just about everything the crew after, as they put it, the storm and to take on both small and suit me. So I decided to become might need. Even toilet paper! from all this blockbuster filming big projects. We actually produc­ one of two things, a musician Hrefna: There can be so much had calmed down. ed our first project the other day; or a film maker. I started a band sexism. Like when we had eight Each one fled the country after a music video for Ásgeir Trausti, that was awful so I made my way guys who all thought it was all the madness. One “travelled directed by Arni & Kinski. to London to study journalism natur­al for the only girl there to the circle” i.e. the world, another and film making. clean the men’s toilets. went to Germany and the third What is the name of your com­ Halldóra Lena: Once I was in a to New York. When asked if the pany? “We are obviously crew that was filming on a ship point was to gain perspective “Roadblock Iceland” they say sur­­­­rounded by stress, and they had me clean up the they look dumbfounded and and rejoice by dipping their press­­­ure and re­­­­­ vomit after the men. But now we laughingly exclaimed, “No, most- French fries in ketchup. sponsi­­­bility but we are are going to ... ly to spend money.” Hrefna interrupts and continues How did you get into filmmaking? act­­u­­­ally very chill­­ed laughing: ... bring some equality But how exactly would they Hrefna: My dad works in the out in a posi­­­­­tive way. ... describe this madness? media and movies and I’ve been We believe in our­ Sunna Guðrún: ... to encourage Sunna Guðrún: On average six- around the business since I selves.” some balance in the business. teen hour days, six days a week was little. One summer, when I for three months. Stuck up in the was fourteen, I got to be on the Is there anything you are afraid Do you have any projects mountains in a sandstorm ... catering team on set instead of regarding founding your own coming up? Hrefna: And getting paid while of doing municipal work [that company? All three: Yes! having to wait for a few days kids here in Iceland often do at Sunna Guðrún: Office work! No, Sunna Guðrún: But we are still until the storm passes. that age]. The movie was called just kidding. working elsewhere while we are Halldóra Lena: Meanwhile Ben “Eleven Men Out” and I had the Hrefna: Afraid of ... ? in between projects and building Stiller is shopping in London. time of my life so there was no Halldóra Lena: We are obviously our company. turning back. I started making surrounded by stress, pressure­ Hrefna: But thankfully we have We get back to discussing their short films and really just got go- and responsibility but we are exciting projects coming up. company. Why are you found­ ing. I made an attempt to study actually very chilled out in a posi­­­ Halldóra Lena: We are going to ing your own company? art in London and Copanhagen tive way. We believe in ourselves. be multitasking. 84 ı WOW is in the air Issue five ı 85 WOW Cyclothon

It was the best of times! The annual WOW Cyclothon is a 1332 km relay race, circling Iceland where one cyclist passes the baton to the next in teams of 6-10 people. Held from June 19-22, the longest days of the year, in rain, mud and lots and lots of sun, the event is becoming quite the summer highlight and for some it’s the highlight of the year.

Photos: Ernir Eyjólfsson and from private collection

he WOW Cyclothon What I can tell you about our goals for isn’t just a race and a next year is that we plan on improve- good time, it’s also a ment. The hardest part about this year’s charity event where race was definitely the weather, which teams collect pledges was very bad in some parts. We plan and all corporate to be better prepared for all weather sponsorship goes conditions next year with better gear Tdi­rectly to charity. This year, the WOW and by toughening up, training outside Cyclothon sponsored the Save the Chil- through the winter. We all have racers dren Iceland foundation and raised a and even though we are not the most total of 4,274,328 ISK. The event is also experienced­ team of cyclists we are very meant to encourage outdoor activities enthusiastic about cycling and slowly but and subsequently healthy living. surely our gear is getting better.” The registration for WOW Cyclothon When we asked if Cops on bikes had 2014 has already opened and first to any secret weapons or strategy up their sign up were Team Hjólalöggur (Cops sleeves, Sverrir denied, “Our only se- on bikes). Team leader Sverrir Guð­­ cret weapon is hard training. This takes finns­­son says there was never a quest­ hard work. The cyclothon is not just ion whether Cops on bikes would com- a question of how well you can ride a pete again. “As soon as I got the email bike; it’s about endurance, to be able to offering this year’s teams a discount continue despite the lack of sleep and on the admissions fee with an earlier the weather conditions. The experience registration I jumped on it. I knew I had we’ve gotten after two cyclothons is the team behind me and as it turns out also very important. We’ve learned to we have more than a full team. Some be tactical. We know better what gear of the team members that competed to take, what food works well and how in the first cyclothon couldn’t make to train for this trial. We learned a lot it this year but want to compete next last year and we learned even more year and so the team is growing. And this year,” concludes Sverrir. then there are colleagues who haven’t competed with us before but want to get on the team. I wouldn’t rule out the possibility of two cop teams next year as we want to keep our team in the A class,” says Sverrir and added that he would soon round up his teammates for a burger to go over these matters. “We haven’t formally started training or strategizing for next year but I gave the guys some homework before our first meeting asking them to go over this year’s competition to see what went well and what we can work on.

It’s somewhat difficult getting the team Gather up your bike buddies and register for together for a meeting as we all work WOW cyclothon 2014 at www.wow­­- cyclothon.com. different shifts in different departments. 86 ı WOW is in the air The registration for WOW Cyclothon 2014 has already opened and first to sign up were Team Hjólalöggur (Cops on bikes).

Issue five ı 87 Run to the hills

Time to round up the sheep In the summer the sheep and lambs live in the mountains, eating grass and herbs, but in September, the farmers gather for the roundup and bring them in from the mountains to shelter them in barns in for the winter. Though they use tractors these days to transport the sheep from the pen to the barn, and while not everyone arrives on horseback, the roundup has been going on for generations and it’s a tradition that young farmers are taught to carry on.

by: Ditte Hoejgaard

t was like the horses could feel running, wishing for a horse to to Þórsmörk that day. The land of the end of the roundup com­­ provide transport from there to the Almenningar is own­­ed by farmers ing and it sparked something sheepfold.­­ in the western part of the Eyjafjalla in both of my horses when area (yep, the moun­­tains with the the hikers suddenly began Fifty-something horses to famous glacier Eyjafjallajökull­­­ on Ito appear on the mountainsides. Þórsmörk the top). The foremost participants Cal­ m­ ly,­ though in confident pace, But first came Thursday. Thursday are from the farms Fornusandar our hikers were chasing the last the 5th of September was a sunny and Skálakot. For me, this year’s sheep and lambs towards the valley day, and it was the day we drew our sheep roundup began on the back and ever more sheep appeared. group of fifty-something horses to of my horse, behind a herd of With high raised heads my horses Þórsmörk. The horses are neces- twenty loose horses which two of were speeding up, and it was no sary for rounding up sheep in the my friends and I drove the forty kilo- longer necessary for me to pull the mountains of Almenningar, an area meters from Skálakot to Þórsmörk. reins of my hand horse to keep up located in the south highlands After the first hour of riding we with the horse I was riding. The of Iceland, a part of the popular met up with a group of horses and energy flooded through them – we hiking route Laugarvegur, just by riders from Fornusandar, and as were now flying, galloping up and Þórsmörk. Work is work but there’s we came closer to Þórsmörk, more down the hills, crossing small rivers, no denying the beauty as I found people who were taking part in the search­­ing for groups of sheep in myself passing the waterfall Sel- roundup joined our group. We con- the green landscape. From the jalandsfoss on horseback. I was one tinued on and eventually a caravan moun­­tainsides the hikers came of the riders who led the horses of tractors and jeeps drove along

88 ı WOW is in the air The horses are necessary for rounding up sheep in the mountains of Almenningar, an area located in the south highlands of Ice- land, a part of the popular hiking route Laugarvegur, just by Þórsmörk.

Issue five ı 89 Run to the hills

the gravel road, and when we jeeps, but at some point it was all the sheep we search the area changed track and went just made stops to change horses, no longer possible for a vehicle quite systematically. Therefore along the side of the pen. Most flatkökur (Icelandic flatbread), to follow our group and every- we could not carry on until we of us had now mounted the pancakes and coffee were wait- one continued on horseback. made a line with the hikers. We horses, and a group of hikers ing for us, together with a sip of It took us around three hours to now had hikers on the moun- where jumping around trying to Brennivín (Black Death). get to the narrow valley between­­ tains on either side of us and get the sheep to run the right In Þórsmörk we were accom- two scenic green moun­­­tains. we, the horseback riders, were way. In the end everyone went modated with bunk beds in two This was our starting point, in the middle. Once the hikers into the sheepfold, and after a large huts. Young and old, we all where the first group of hikers appeared on both mountainsides rough counting they were plac­­ found a place for the night. And left their horses to search the we could carry on to the point ed in big transport boxes on the though we were planning on an mountains by foot. After the old where we were back in line. back of the tractors. early start for the roundup the tradition we tied the horses they For me it was time for lunch next day, the evening was spent left to each other like a train, and relaxation in the grass. Some ur 10 hours of cheerfully singing and strumm­ reins to tail, and brought them kept warm by dancing. Others­ roundup were suc- ing the guitar. People strolled with us. shared some biscuits and chatt­ cessfully complet- between the two houses, some ed. We were all excited about ed, and the pylsur Sheep on horseback O conversing about the hay har­ when we’d see more sheep. (Icelandic hotdogs) that we v­est, but I was mostly singing In the valley we found our first Slowly we moved forward cooked over a small bonfire to along. When I could no longer sheep. On the top of a cave on tow­ards the end of our roundup celebrate, well, they just tasted recall the words to “Heart of the mountainside a lamb stood area and increasingly hikers unbelievably good in these mar- Gold” it was obviously time to looking in our direction. Inside went back on their horses. In velous surroundings. Although call it a night. the cave a ewe lay dead. After the flatter area of Almenningar the roundups in Almenningar three hours with no sheep to more and more sheep appeared might not be a spectator’s sport Reins to tail hunt, our dogs were incredibly and by using our voices and there are big roundups all over On Friday morning we woke up eager to catch this lamb and with help from the dogs we Iceland in September that are. at 5 AM. Cursing those beers barking and howling they went drew the sheep to the pen. It is Willing spectators can watch as I had with the sing-a-long the for it. The poor lamb ran as if my experience that sheep are a land­­slide of sheep run down night before, I fueled up with its life depended on it, down not that easy to move around, a moun­­tain and into large pens some Skyr and a cup of coffee the mountainside. The dogs and it wasn’t easy getting them where they are then sorted. and made myself a sandwich did their job, but by the time it all in. A small group of sheep Anyone can come and watch or to keep in my pocket. We all got to the bottom the lamb was and lambs unexpectedly went even help out a farmer if they brought sandwiches in our too stressed to walk, probably another way down the mountain­ want, but it’s always best to ask pock­ets, along with chocolate­- missing its mum to lead the way, side so that three riders had a farmer to show you the ropes bars and hipflasks. Around 6:30 so we tied its legs together and to run after them to turn them first. Watching is one thing, but we began the roundup. Some brought it with us on horseback. around. And when we’d gotten actually taking part, raises this of us were horseback riding, Now came a waiting time. In almost all of them to go in the experience to a whole new others driving the tractors and order to make sure that we get right direction, some suddenly level.

90 ı WOW is in the air If you want to restrict your calorie intake but still eat well and main­­tain a balanced diet, Skyr is the natural choice. Promotion

yogurt in cold dips and oven mark, Sweden and Norway under Our daily Skyr dishes. Skyr contains 10% high license agreements from Iceland. quality protein, 20% of which is Skyr is also being exported to whey pro­­tein, best known for its Finland. Skyr’s popularity has The ultimate dairy muscle building properties. This grown immensely in the short Skyr (pronounced skeer) is a dairy product that is unique has made it extremely popular time since production began in among ath­letes and bodybuild­ the Nordic countries, just another to Iceland. It is a deliciously healthy course or snack that ers. Skyr is made from the fresh­ indicator that Skyr really is the has been a large part of the Icelandic diet since the first est ingredients: milk, farmed in ultimate dairy! settlers brought it with them around the year 1000, as the fresh green pastures near the mentioned in the Icelandic Sagas. Arctic Circle where the water is pure and the nature unspoiled. The new processing technique is Skyr is made from clotted skim is the natural choice. It is a very 100% natural, based on the origi­ milk, has a slightly acid taste and satisfying food that keeps you nal principles, using the thousand a tinge of sweetness. Its popular- going throughout the day but will year old recipe and milk from ity is due to its versatility and nu- not burden your mind or weaken the same cow breed, the color­ tritional qualities. Skyr is a creamy your resolve on a diet! Skyr is a ful settlement cow, whose milk delicacy that is both fat-free and great breakfast, a snack between has unique health-promoting protein rich, giving you a great meals or the sustaining part of a qualities. sense of fullness – a convenient hearty meal. Served with cream and healthy food, loved by both it has been Icelanders’ favorite ntil a few years ago Skyr Icelanders and visitors alike. dessert through the centuries. was only available in Ice­ If you want to restrict your cal- Unflavored, unsweetened Skyr Uland. However this has orie intake but still eat well and is a great fat-free substitute for changed over the last few years main­­tain a balanced diet, Skyr mayonnaise, crème fraiche or as Skyr is now produced in Den- Issue five ı 91 Vatnajökull Region

Winter paradise In the Vatnajökull Region you’ll find the real reason for Iceland‘s name. The area is dominated by the Vatna­ jök­ull Glacier which is the largest glacier in the world outside the Arctic regions. There you also find some of Iceland’s most popular tourist attractions such as the spectacular­­ Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Skaftafell a jewel in Vatnajökull National Park (largest national park in Europe) and Hvannadalshnjúkur, the highest peak in Iceland and a popular hike.

Photos: Einar Rúnar Sigurðsson

he Vatnajökull Re­­ different needs. Whether you gion is filled with want to sleep in your tent, a stark contrasts with hotel or anything in between, its black beaches you will find a warm welcome and white glaciers. by knowledgeable hosts. TSerenity, energy and forces There are several restau- of nature combine to make a rants in the area and most of visit to the Vatnajökull Region them offer local food made by a never-to-be-forgotten exper­­ local people. Be sure to ask ience and a photographers for the local beer Vatnajökull, dream. There is rich wildlife which is made from icebergs in the Vatnajökull Region with from Jökulsárlón and arctic thousands of migrating birds thyme. A lobster meal will passing through and herds also be a good choice since of reindeer, a common sight. Höfn is the lobster capital of And if you’re lucky you might Iceland. spot a seal at Jökulsárlón or an arctic fox running through the land. You will also find dozens of companies that off­er all sorts of activities year round, diverse accommoda- tion and great restaurants with local food. The Vatnajökull Region is in the southeast of Iceland and covers over 200 km of the Ring Road from Lómagnúpur in the west to Hvalnes in the east. It covers the south and Accessible year round most accessible side to Vatna­­ The Vatnajökull Region is jökull. There is one town in accessible the whole year the area, Höfn, with a popu­la­ round due to good weath- tion of 1600. er conditions and frequent tran­­sportation. There is a Activity, accommo­ daily flight from Reykjavík to dation and restaurants the Höfn airport during the Much of the activity in the summer and five days a week Vatnajökull Region revolves in during other seasons. Buses the proximity of the glacier and between Reykjavík and Höfn the nature around it. You can are scheduled daily during choose between boat rides at the summer and three days a Jökulsárlón, glacier walks, ice week during other seasons. cave tours and ice climbing at There are also three car rental Vatnajökull, snow­­mobile tours companies in Höfn. and jeep tours at Vatnajökull, ATV tours and geothermal baths at Hoffell, northern lights tours, reindeer excur- sions, a visit to the Thorbergs- setur Cultural Museum, the local handicraft store, the Farmzoo at Hólmur, and many more. There are various possibili- For more information check out ties in accommodations to suit www.visitvatnajokull.is. 92 ı WOW is in the air The Vatnajökull Region is in the south- east of Iceland and covers over 200 km of the Ring Road from Lómagnúpur in the west to Hvalnes in the east.

Issue five ı 93 WOW air proudly supports a bevy of artists, athletes and projects. The people chosen are individuals who have done something WOW worthy, are good role models and are an inspiration to others. WOW air’s goal is to help its stars reach their goals by sponsoring their international travels. Skúli Mogensen, CEO of WOW air says: “Iceland has so many noteworthy people doing good things in arts, sports and culture, that it’s really unbelievable.” So far we’ve introduced five WOW stars to the world and we plan to keep our readers posted on all their endeavors.

Annie Mist

Jón Margeir

Annie Mist at all since I hurt my back. My itions this year. In August he Baltasar Kormákur For the past months Annie’s fiancé and I both took first place participated in the IPC Swimm­­­ Baltasar has been well known train­­ing has mostly revolved in the competition which shows ing World Championship in for many years in Iceland for his around rehabbing her back after me that my reha­­bilit­­ation period Montr­­eal where he got the silver acting and directing, but has an injury early this year. The last is coming to an end.” in 200 m freestyle and set a new recently been directing movies in two months she spent travelling When asked what the future nati­­onal and European record. a small town called Holly­­wood. the globe, going to Dallas for a holds Annie says that building It was interesting that the same His latest movie “2 Guns” was fitness expo and to Alicante to up strength in her back and three swimmers: Jón, Fox and premiered in USA in August and teach for a week. Alicante was getting back to 100% is no. 1. Cho, took the first three places ranked number one at the box not only about teaching since Annie is part-owner of CrossFit in Montreal just as they did at office after the opening weekend. Annie’s trainer is from the area Reykjavík which opens at a new last year’s Paralympics. The international premier was at and took his role as a guide location in Faxafen 12 in Octo- After the World Championship, the opening of the famous Locar- quite seriously. Annie then went ber, subsequently becoming Jón Margeir took a well deserved­­ no Film Festival in Switzerland in to South Africa as a Reebok the biggest CrossFit facility in break heading to the Swiss and front of 8,000 viewers. Baltasar am­­bassador helping them out the world. At the moment she’s French Alps. Although he didn’t has also been traveling around with The Big Five Throw Down planning a big opening party. tell us much about it, we’re sure the world with his movie “The tournament. That trip ended with he did more than just relax over Deep”. “The Deep” was short-list- a three day safari. Then Annie Jón Margeir there seeing as mountain biking ed for an Oscar this spring and and her fiancé headed to Dubai Jón Margeir won gold at the is one of his favorite pastimes. has now been nominated for the to compete in the Dubai Fitness Para­­­lympics in London last year Jón Margeir has now returned European Film Awards and the Championships. “His highness and set both World and Olympic to his vigorous training and a Nordic Council Film Prize. “I’ve Sheik Majid took great care of us records in the 200 meter free­­­ couple of big domestic tourna- also been raising my children but and we got to see and do a lot style swim. He also holds numer- ments are on the horizon. He’s I still haven’t gotten any awards in of things. This was a very import- ous Icelandic records and has also heading to the Open Nordic that department,” he commented ant tournament for me seeing as been very successful in various Championship in swimming at with a smile. I haven’t been able to compete international swimming compet­ the start of November. When we spoke to Baltasar he 94 ı WOW is in the air Ásgeir Trausti

Baltasar Kormákur

Guðmundur Felix was on his way to London to copies and named “Album of foll­­owed by an already sold out transplant. And it’s not just us here meet actors for his next project, the Year” at the Icelandic Music re­­lease concert in London on in Iceland that are interested in “Everest”, a film about a 1996 Awards. This summer has been October 30. From November 12, Guðmundur’s story as he recently accident on Mount Everest, and all about travelling for this Ásgeir will be starting his album got a house call from a French also to meet with production­ com- young artist and singles from release tour around Europe be­­ publisher who’s eager to publish a panies for EVE online, a massive his English album have hit the ginn­­ing with Copenhagen and book about this remarkable expe- multiplayer action game. After that sound wav­­es to critical acclaim. Paris and making stops in Den rience. This means Guðmundur is he’s heading to New Zealand to The first song “King and Cross” Haag, Amsterdam,­­­ Tilburg, Zurich, now on the lookout for writers. meet the friends and family of the was released August 12 along Poznan, Warsaw, Katowice, Ham­­­­­­­ When we asked him “What’s people who died in the Everest with a music video made by Árni burg, Munster, Berlin and Dresden.­­ up?” he said “Nothing much,” as accident. “I’m also going to Nepal & Kinski. The personal highlights The tour continues in December­­ right now he’s on hold, waiting to to look at locations and then to of Ásgeir’s European tour were in with six shows across the UK. get on the waiting list. He added Everest base camp and even Roskilde, Denmark, and Pohoda, that life in Lyon was treating him higher. We start shooting in the Slovakia, but he also opened Guðmundur Felix nicely, his French was coming Dolomites in Italy at the beginning for Of Monsters and Men across Guðmundur Felix leads a full life along slowly but surely and that of November.” The stars are really Europe. as a father of two grown girls the food was great, almost too lining up for Baltasar’s new movie. Coming up in the next couple while running a business despite­­ great, “but fortunately­ it’s almost So far Josh Brolin, Jake Gyllen- of months are three concerts in the loss of both his arms at the always healthy.” Guðmundur Felix haal, Jason Clarke and John Denmark at the start of October shoulders in 1998. His persistence­­ stays in shape, going for regular Hawkes have already signed on. (one of which is already sold got the attention of French doct­ runs in the Tete d’Or Park. out) and various showcases ors who have agreed to make The waiting game will hope­ Ásgeir Trausti around the CMJ music­ festival in him the world’s first double arm fully be over for Guðmundur at Ásgeir Trausti became the most New York on October 13-19. The transplant recipient. Last June, the start of October. And when popular­­ singer/songwriter in highlight however­­ is probably the Guðmundur moved to Lyon where he’s finally on the transplant Ice­­land in just under a year, his release of Ásgeir’s English album, he’ll be residing during the prepa- waiting list he can get that call at first album selling over 30,000 “In the Silence”, on October 28, rations for, and recovery from the any moment. Issue five ı 95 Something to look forward to

96 ı WOW is in the air Heja Sverige!

Ever changing, lively and beautiful, Stockholm, the largest city of Scandinavia, is sometimes dubbed as Venice of the North. The bustling city is built upon fourteen islands so nature is never far away – a great city for a few days of civilized metropolitan relaxation before continuing on a grand journey.

by Kristín Ýr Gunnarsdóttir

ust a short while ago wait to sit down on Stortorget with Vitabergsparken WOW air announced that an ice cream and then taking in This lovely park in Södermalm is they’re flying to Stock- the Palace. Next we would enjoy ideal for a stroll or a jog and to en- holm. WOW air will fly the view on Katrinahissen and then joy your life. The park has a variety through Arlanda Airport, wind our way to Mariatorget for a of good cafés and restaurants, most JSweden’s largest Airport, giving cup of coffee ending our stroll at a situated around Nytorget. Erstgatan guests a great connection to the nice restaurant at Katrina Bangata is also well worth a visit, especially Middle East and The Orient. WOW or Skånegatan.­ the old working-class district close by. air will offer flights three times a week, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from June 2nd. Stockholm will then become an all year des- tination. We are really looking for- ward to this new WOW destination­ and here are more than a few of the reasons why …

Djurgården The green island of Djurgården, close to central Stockholm, is beloved by outdoorsy Stockholm- ers and tourists alike. This oasis is home to Gröna Lund, Stockholm’s old amusement park, several of the city’s top museums and attractions Södermalm as well as enjoyable cafes and Gamla Stan This part of Stockholm is like restaurants. We especially look for- Most people who visit Stockholm Reykjavík’s 101 area’s bigger and ward to visiting the Vasa Museum go to Gamla Stan, one of the largest cooler brother; trendy, charming before or after a picnic and a stroll and best preserved medieval city and unique. This is where the around the area. centers in Europe. This is where it young and creative people want to all started! Walking through Gamla live and enjoy themselves. The area Stan is like walking through a living is home to a multitude of unusual, pedestrian-friendly museum full interesting and contemporary bou- Södermalm of sights, attractions, restaurants, tiques for fashion, design, interior is like Reykja­vík’s cafés, bars and places to shop, not décor and vintage merchandise. to mention the Royal Palace - a SoFo, the area south of Folkunga­ 101 area’s bigger great place for a meditative stroll gatan, has become a diverse scene and cooler brother; through narrow winding cobble­­ for the new and unexpected and trendy, charming stone streets, taking in the med­­ this is a great place for people and unique. ieval architecture. Now we can’t watching on Saturdays. Issue five ı 97 Something to look forward to

the stations perceived as more lived there with his wife Olge until beau­­tiful and safe, the artworks 1931. This unique setting, one of give each station their own identity, Sweden’s foremost tourist attrac- mak­­ing it easier to navigate in the tions, welcomes thousands of transport network. The trip becom­ visitors every year. It is open all the es a cultural experience. year round and the intention is for

The cheapest Skinnarviksberget art shows you will Katarinahissen is a popular place ever go to are at the in Stockholm if you want to get a many underground good view of the city. But there’s metro stations in another less crowded and even Stockholm. better platform to see the skyline; Skinnarviksberget in Södermalm. This place gives you great view over Kungsholmen and is a great venue for a picnic.

Metro art Millersgården the museum, aided by exhibitions The cheapest art shows you will Millesgården can be termed a and activities of various kinds, to ever go to are at the many under- work of art in its own right, a nicely continue in the visionary spirit of ground metro stations in Stockholm. balanced stage design of terraces, Carl Milles himself. By cheap we mean that the only fountains, stairways, sculptures ad­­mission is a valid metro ticket. and columns. In 1960 the sculptor All this and so much more. We are sure you’ll fall in love with Stockholm just like Each metro station in Stockholm Carl Milles bought a plot of land we have. has been decorated with artwork by on the island of Lidingö and had Book your WOW flights to Stockholm at www.wow.is well known artists. Besides making a house and studio built there. He 98 ı WOW is in the air

Person of WOW

Inga Þóra Ingadóttir has been part of the fabulous WOW air cabin crew since last May. This is not her first job at an airline, as Inga says she just fell in love with this career,­ seeing the world and meeting new people. “I’ve lived all over the world and you could say that I’ve been moving around since I was six years old. This ad- venturous job is right up my alley and I really liked the atmosphere at WOW air, everything is just WOW!”

Wonder Woman in the upper atmosphere Photos: From personal collection

he cabin crew is Fit Games in L.A. with my team responsible for wel­­ Thor and we came in second at coming the guests the European Championship last of WOW air onboard, May. Then there was the Boot- delivering them on camp Hell Weekend earlier this Ttime and safely to their destina- year. It’s 36 hours of extreme tion with a smile on their face. challenges such as open water “The best part about my job swimming, hauling giant logs are my fellow crew members; around, running up Mount Esja they’re really upbeat and fun. and so on, with some very tough I also like that no two days are Navy Seals. It’s so amazing to the same. Sometimes, when find out that your body can do I put on my uniform I feel like so much more than you would Wonder Woman in the upper expect. The Bootcamp Hell atmosphere,” says Inga. What Weekend really taught me that is the hardest part of the job? and it was a great boost for “There are some trying mo- moving forward.” ments. Sometimes things don’t Inga and her boyfriend, Arnar go exactly as planned. When have a three and a half year these circumstances arise, the old son named Viktor Breki. cabin crew has to be able to How does family life fit into her read people and react accord- lifestyle of flying between coun- ingly. Sometimes you have to tries and exercising? “Well it fits be a waitress, a police officer, rather well, actually. As I said I a nurse and a psychologist all met Arnar through bootcamp at once and know how to keep and we are teammates on Thor calm during those incidents.” as it gave me an opp­ortunity to not only kept Inga healthy and Bootcamp and crossfit challenge myself and channel fit but lead her down some un- But there’s more to life than my energy.” Inga studied sport expected paths, “I actually met be­ing good at your job and Inga science at Laugarvatn­ and my boyfriend, Arnar, through excels in her favorite pastime as began to work as a bootcamp bootcamp and I’ve also made well. In 2007 she was introduc­ ed­ coach in 2008, “and I’m still some wonderful friends during to bootcamp and crossfit training coaching today. Many people this time. In 2007, after I started and fell head over heels. “My think that bootcamp is madness training I competed in a Model friend got me into it and some­ but that’s not how it is. Actually Fitness competition and got first thing just clicked. I have always everyone does the exercises prize. I’ve competed in endur- been very competitive in sports according to their own pace and ance competitions and last year and used to train in gym­nastics ability. In my opinion this is great my team won the title “Fittest and track and field. Bootcamp way to tone up and boost your Women’s Team”. We’re on our was exactly what I needed to strength,” explains Inga. way to defend that title soon. quench my competi­tive thirst Bootcamp and crossfit has I’ve also competed in the Cross- 100 ı WOW is in the air so this is a shared interest for don, Copenhagen and Barcelo- us. We just have to organize na; I just can’t choose between really well and then everything them. I simply love travelling, just falls into place. Viktor Breki learning about different cultures is fast becoming a part of this and meeting different people,” lifestyle practicing gymnastics says Inga and then shares a and swimming. He’ll be great little story from a trip to Berlin at bootcamp/crossfit one day,” in 2011. “I went with Arnar who says Inga. was running in the Berlin Mara- Even though bootcamp and thon. I was a dutiful cheerleader crossfit are her main hobbi­es, that time and stayed on the sidelines to take pictures. You always have to be clear about your location before the runners pass you by and so I ran all over the city to ensure that he would be able to hear me and that I could snap some photos. I was so afraid of missing him, he just ran so fast. I think I ended up running half a marathon that day and I got to see Berlin in all its glory while doing it. I think running a marathon is a great way to get to know a city from a different perspective.” This gem, situated in the heart of Reykjavík, offers a homey Mediterranean atmosphere along with great food from the freshest ingredients.

The pizza oven at Caruso is legendary as well as the pizzas and everything from pasta to amazing steak and fish dishes are prepared with love and respect. Be sure to try the delicious homemade chocolate cake. Some say it’s the best in town.

Caruso Þingholtsstræti 1 I 101 Reykjavík I Reservations: 562 7335 or email [email protected] I Fax: 561 7334 Open: Mondays - Thursdays: 11:30-22:30 Fridays: 11:30-23:30 Saturdays: 12:00-23:30 Sundays: 17:00-22:00

On weekends she says she also loves sing­­ efore we left Inga she live music is played ing, cooking and travelling. “I wanted to challenge the by our famous classic get to travel a lot for work and readers of WOW maga- guitar player Símon H B Ívarsson creating an because of competitions, sing­­ zine. “Last Easter, all the staff unforgettable ing and cooking get a little less at boot camp were given some ambience. attention. That’s why I really chocolate eggs. I contacted a love those times I get to spend home for children who come cooking and sitting down with from difficult circumstances my family.” and we decided to donate the eggs to them. At 11 o’clock on “I simply love travelling” Easter Sunday I took my family Being well travelled Inga of and one of my colleagues to the course has some favorite home and we orchestrated a lit- plac­­es. “Every year we travel tle egg hunt with the kids there. to America as I have a family The happy looks on their faces there. Most often we go to still fill our hearts with joy and Virg­inia and stay by Lake Anna so I want to challenge the read- where we just relax. Berlin and ers to do something different almost all of Germany is also a and nice for other people. It’s favorite as I lived in Heidelberg amazing how just a little thing for four years. Then there’s Lon- can make others happy.” Issue five ı 101 Winter sports

102 ı WOW is in the air The slopes won’t bring you down

Salzburg’s attractions are loved by millions of visitors from all over the World making it one of Europe’s busiest cities all year round. This, however, is not the only reason to take flight to Salzburg. Just a short distance away from the bustling city life you will find some of Austria’s best ski areas; Bad Hofgastein, Kirchberg and Saalbach-Hinterglemm. Austria is known for its excellent ski resorts, some even claim they are the best in the world. With reliable snow conditions and prices that are generally low­­er than in Italy or France it is no surprise that ski va­­cations in Austria are becoming increasingly popular. Plus, Austrians really know how to make their ski resorts fun with a number of entertaining festivals and happenings at each one.

Photos: Birtíngur Photo Archive, Photos.com, Gasteinertal Tourismus GmbH, Kitzbüheler Alpen Marketing GmbH and Tourismusverband Saalbach Hinterglemm

Bad Hofgastein We couldn’t say a bad word about Bad Hofgastein. This little town is part of Ski Amade, a network of 28 ski areas and towns that combined make up the largest ski area in Europe with 860 km of downhill slopes and 278 modern ski lifts. The right slope awaits you no matter what your ability level: deep-snow and mogul runs, carving hills and freerides, along with family runs, guaranteeing the best ski vacations you could possibly wish for. The optimal elevations and broad snowmaking coverage of Gasteiner Valley’s ski resort guarantees reliable snow conditions from the end of November until late April.

Issue five ı 103 Winter sports

Photo: Kurt Tropper For an unforgettable view, traverse the 140 m long pedestrian footbridge on the Stubnerkogel, with 28 meters of nothing but air underneath and at 2400 meters above sea level, this is Europe’s highest suspension bridge. In addition to the 250 km of pistes, Bad Hofgastein is also an esteemed wellness resort offering one of Europe’s most exclusive­ and extensive thermal spas, the Alpentherme. With six adventure and vitality worlds spread out the Alpentherme covers an area of 32,000 square meters and features a unique 360° panoramic view of the Alps, a sauna world with a mountain lake, leisure and Photo: Stefan Eisend Photo: Stefan Eisend wellness areas, a multimedia adventure dome, thrilling water slid­­ es, geysers and a glassed-in sky bar. Bad Hofgastein should really rather be known as Good Hofgastein!

Kirchberg A friendly little town, Kirchberg in Tirol lies in the heart of the Kitz­­­ bühel Alps – just 6 km from the world famous town of Kitzbühel,­­ one of Austria’s best-known and fanciest winter sports resorts. Both Kirchberg and Kitzbühel are close to the mountains­­ Hahnen­­ Photo: Markus Mitterer kamm (1715 m) and Kitzbühler Horn (1996 m). The Hahnenkamm­­ is home to the annual World Cup ski races, includ­­ing the circuit’s Saalbach-Hinterglemm most important event, the downhill race on the famous Streif Saalbach is one of Austria’s premier ski resorts, offering a wide Slope, counted as one of the toughest downhill com­­petitions in range of runs, extensive off pistes, and an excellent snow record. the world. The World Cup and other international races that take Skiing can be found on both sides of the valley. The runs on the place here bring many celebrities and jet setters to these slopes. north side (south-facing side) tend to be preferred by visitors Kirchberg also attracts couples, groups, families and any dedi­­ ­ due to the generally sunny weather. The pistes on the south side cated skier looking for a good deal. Ski holidays in Kirchberg offer (north-facing side) are normally in the shade and have better snow bargains to many of the ski and snowboarding related festivals coverage, particularly in the late season, as well as more trees. Much held in the region each season. The world famous Hahnenkamm­­­­ of the off-piste skiing is found on the north side, where thigh-deep, Race Week (January 22 – 26) is just one of these. Kirchberg offers untouched powder can be found only meters from many of the a number of lively pubs where you can party the night away. As pistes. There is a small snow park in Hinterglemm, but experienced an alternative you can also take a trip into Kitzbühel­­ to try out their snowboarders and skiers prefer the snow park in the adjacent valley après ski scene or try your hand in the casino. There are also plenty in Leogang, which boasts superior kickers, as well as rails and jibs. of options for snowboarders in the area with a local snowboard While experienced adrenalin junkies head to the new Boarder and park as well as a second snowpark near the Kitzbühler Horn. Skiercross on the Bernkogel (a 500 m long run, planned and built by

All you need in one place • Skólavör›ustígur 19 tel.: (+354) 552 1890

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• Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 104 ı WOW is in the air www.handknit.is none other than Boardercross World Championship legend Mario Fuchs), children and other inexperienced skiers or boarders­­ should head to the Easypark that’s close by. Some never get enough from the slopes and for them there’s the Monster Energy Nightpark that stretches from the mountain to the valley station of the Unterschwarzach cableway in Hinter­­ glemm. The extended and improved floodlit facilities provide per­­fect light conditions and turns night into day for those tireless freestylers enabling them to work on their moves until 9:30 pm.

Energy for the slopes Fancy dinners beside a roaring Photo: © Saalbach Hinterglemm fireplace and fun with friends at one of the many après skis in the villages of the Austrian Alps are a given but when you need energy to stay on your skis or snowboard that’s where käsespätzle and germknödel come in. Käsespätzle is a type of egg noodles with a soft texture mixed with grated cheese (typically Emmenthaler) and fried onions. For dessert (or as a main course) we recommend the germknödel, a fluffy yeast dough dumpling Photo: Edward Groeger © Saalbach Photo: © Saalbach Hinterglemm filled with spicy plum jam and sprinkled with sugar and poppy seeds, served with vanilla cream sauce. Yummmm! At most on-piste restaurants you will find these delicious and energ­izing local dishes that will get you down the hill and up again until it’s time for some après ski. When that time comes, be sure to try the glückwein. Good glück!

How to get there? WOW air offers flights to Salzburg every Saturday from December to March. Check out their varied ski-packages to these magnificent ski-resorts at www.wowtravel.is. Photo: © Saalbach Hinterglemm Photo: Edward Groeger

All you need in one place • Skólavör›ustígur 19 tel.: (+354) 552 1890

SWEATERS AND SOUVENIERS, NO KNITTING MATERIAL: • Radisson Blu, Hótel SAGA tel.: (+354) 562 4788

• Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 www.handknit.is Grand creation

It was one of the grandest days of creation when God made the Kitzbühel Alps in Austria. It must have happened on the eighth day, after he (or she) got a day of rest and the experience from the previous week was still fresh in his (or her) mind. Since that time it has been granted to the plants, animals and people of this land to grow up in a stupendously enchanted world.

There’s more to the land than landscape

now covered giants slowly became a nest bursting in the south and with abundant life. And this rough hewn crags is what photographer Markus in the limestone Mitt­erer calls home and what ranges of the north has become one of his greatest Sgaze down enviously across inspirations. the unending grassy carpets of Born in St. Johann in Tirol in summ­­er and the snow blanketed 1970, Markus has worked as hill­­sides of winter ... and humbly an independent photographer stand in awe. Proud peaks since 1998 for industry, handi- and high gentle pastures, later crafts and tourism, as well as for Markus Mitterer and his beloved Kitzbühel Alps. adorned the Kitzbühel Alps, that photo and advertising agencies. 106 ı WOW is in the air It all began when he was 14 years Markus’ book old when he became fascinated reveals the by his father’s single-lens reflex Kitzbühel Alps camera. in great detail for the very something bigger, a book where first time and it is safe to say the photos would not be com­ that Markus did not lie around promised. I decided to start on during those five years he this dream project of mine in spent creating it, traipsing­ over 2007 and in November 2012 I hill and dale in the provinces finally held the first copy of my of Tirol and Salz­burg, tracking book.” down the beauty and diversity of his homeland. This journey took him from Alpbach Valley Apart from commissioned work, now has his own studio, lives to Wildschönau, Brixen valley, he has also photographed his and works in Kitzbühel. “You the city of Kitzbühel and Leuken homeland since 2001 for the could say that I came back to my Valley into Glemm Valley and annual pictorial wall calendars. It roots. After 9 years of working all around them again. “To be all began when he was 14 years away I was homesick. I missed honest, I ­underestimated the old when he became fascinated the mountains, the nature and thematic richness and geo­- by his father’s single-lens reflex the balance and quality of life grap­­hic breadth of the Kitzbühel camera. From then, his future here in the Alps,” says Markus Alps,” says Markus. “Maybe path was settled. Following who recently published a 288 that’s why it turned out that high school graduation and page illustrative book with his I’m the first photographer to apprenticeship in Germany photos from the Kitzbühel Alps. publish an illustrated volume of came several years of practice “I started photographing the its entire surface area. Even so, in various photo studios, his Kitzbühel Alps for the pictorial I don’t wish to make any claim master’s exams and two years calendars in 2001 but the whole to having covered everything as cameraman for television. He time I was thinking about doing­­ completely. My curiosity led Issue five ı 107 Grand creation

“I love all four seasons; after all, they are what makes the year exciting, each season has its specialties. However, most of my landscape photos are shot in the autumn and winter.”

me to the furthermost corners, and slopes. I also use the lifts can find in his book. “It was very actually fell in love with it again. made possible many valuable of course, to get closer to the important to me to depict the And I can tell you from experi- human encounters with the land mountain tops with my heavy people of the area and their ence, there‘s no better place on and its people, for which I am equipment and from there I start traditions as well.” earth to live.” most grateful.” with my ski touring equipment. I Markus’ book has about 240 also walk and drive through this masterful photographs, 70 of No better place on earth winter wonder­land,” explains which are portraits of people Some of Markus’ photos are Markus. followed by their stories. “I absolutely awe inspiring and “I love all four seasons; after wanted to inspire locals as well one can’t help but wonder how all, they are what makes the as guests to have a closer look he got them. “During the winter year exciting, each season has at our beautiful mountains. Not I get my images mostly while ski its specialties. However, most of many people know about the touring. That means walking up my landscape photos are shot quality of life here in the Kitz- with skins on the bottom of my in the autumn and winter. That’s bühel Alps. As a photographer skis. Then I ski down through the time of year where the air I am very much aware of it and powder-snow (hopefully) over gets very clear and the light is my book should convey that untouched landscapes beside really intense,” says Markus. message. Through this intense For book details and orders visit www.markus-mitterer.com ski-resorts with their busy lifts But landscapes are not all you approach to my homeland I 108 ı WOW is in the air Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop.

All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection.

The JS Watch co. Watch factory and exclusive retail shop located at Laugavegur 62, in the trendy “101” area of Reykjavik provides customers with unique opportunity to meet the watchmakers who assemble and test their timepiece.

The quantity of watches produced is limited, giving them an exclusive and truly personal feel. www.jswatch.com WOW autumn cities

Fall in love with

LondonPhotos: Rafael Pinho and Photos.com

films to the table at the same time An awesome with a packed program of premiers, October talks and the biggest names in The popularity of the industry, including Hollywood This month London’s food, drink directors and actors. The whole city city-getaways is great and film scene is at the forefront. becomes a great place for photo- during the fall and The city’s amazing dining culture is bomb­­ing. Just follow the paparazzi! London is one of in the spotlight during the London If you get tired of being just a those cities that seem Restaurant Festival (October 3– spectator The Big Draw should October 21), a city-wide celebration cap­ture your attention. Throughout to blossom in all sea- of London’s restaurants and chefs. Octo­ber you can participate in this sons. During the fall Special menus, celebrity chefs, inspiring festival by joining one of and wint­er you will culinary tours and street food – many events around London in London becomes a foodie heaven this world’s largest celebration of find this city bustling The BFI London Film Festival drawing.­­­ London’s ancient history with life and culture. (Octo­­ber 9 –October 20) brings and ghoulish past make it a perfect

110 ı WOW is in the air might be. Discover more about this vibrant occasion also known as the Festival of Lights with a trip to Shri Swaminarayan­ Mandir, a spectacular Hindu temple in West London. Trafalgar Square is the place to be for this celebration that attracts thous­ands of people to central London. This year the program is packed with free entertainment including music and dance from community groups and professional artists, food stalls, and a range of activities for children. If you prefer a smaller crowd you can find smaller festi­­vals and family place to spend Halloween (October­ 31 and the days around). With its gloomy dungeons, haunt­­ed tower and other super scary attractions, events across London, as well as such as the London Bridge special menus in some London Experience (availa­­ble all year at restaurants.­­ 2-4 Tooley Street), London aims to Don’t miss the Designer Ware­­ A noteworthy scare you at this time of year but house Sales. For a limited time you November if scary is not your thing the Hindu can get award winning designer­­­­ festi­­val of Diwali (October 27) just labels for up to 80% off the original During November, the city’s dark price, all under one roof. We’re winter nights light up with major talking Valentino, Gucci, Velvet, events and theatrical productions, Belstaff, Celine, Prada, Blumarine, while the colder weather is the Anonymous, Vi­vienne Westwood, perfect excuse to enjoy a cozy High, Viktor & Rolf, Celine, Dolce pub. The highlight on ­London’s & Gabana, Marc by Marc Jacobs, event calendar is without doubt Roberto Cavalli, Moschino and Guy Fawkes aka Bonfire Night many more new and exciting (November 5), when awesome designers. Expect catwalk one-offs, fireworks displays take place a showroom samples and cancelled­­ across the city. For more fireworks, orders from the pick of the current plus one of London’s biggest street season’s collections. Some have parades be sure to be at the right even called this one of the ten best place for the Lord Mayor’s Show reasons for living in London. (Nov­ember 9), an 800-year-old The Designer Warehouse Sales inauguration ceremony that has are held 12 times a year and there evolved into a huge celebratory are two in October: Womenswear procession of marching bands, October 19-21 and Menswear from acrobats, samba dancing and more, October 26-28. winding its way through the heart A highlight of October is the of London. After the procession a riot of autumnal color as the city’s fantastic fireworks display lights up parks change from green to copper the sky over the River Thames. and russet reds. This vivid display is worth a trip to London’s largest Reaffirming its place as a hot­­­­ open space, Richmond Park. bed of musical talent, the city is home to the London Jazz Festi­­­val (November 15 – November 24). This is the city’s biggest pan-city music festival, a 10-day feast of Weather: Daytime tem- performances from both emerging peratures reach up to 14°C and established jazz artists. For the (57°F) and can fall to 8°C (46°F) in the evenings. You sport enthusiast the spotlight this can expect around five month will proba­bly hit the Barclays hours of sunshine on aver- ATP World Tour Finals (November age each day and mostly a 4 – November 11) where the world’s light jacket is all you need. best male tennis players com­pete at The O2 Arena. Issue five ı 111 WOW autumn cities

squares. For a more spiritual nour­ ishment,­­ look up St. Paul’s Cathedral, which hosts a grand program of carol concerts and services. Those lucky enough to be in London over New Year’s Eve should not miss the incredible fireworks display from the River Thames and London Eye. ‘Tis the season for parties and going out with friends, and London is certainly not lacking in places to let your hair down. From booming nightclubs to sophisticated bars, the party venues are many and varied. Make sure you visit some of the London Christmas markets. They offer charming crafts and excellent food produce, not to mention a festive atmosphere and plenty of warming mulled wine. Get nostalgic at Trafalgar Square, where London’s biggest Christmas tree sparkles and carol services are held throughout the month. Although the weather can be fairly gloomy this time of year, London makes up for it with glittering Christmas lights.

The pubs of London are cult­ur­ When December nears, Lond­ al institutions in their own right on’s Hyde Park becomes a Wint­ and really come into their own er Wonderland (November 23 during winter. Inside you will find – January 5) with big top shows, the perfect retreat where you can the observation wheel and a huge enjoy warming log fires and taste Christmas market. Take a spin on the hearty ales. November is also the stunning ice rink or take the the perfect time to start your Christ­­ children to meet Santa in his grotto. mas shopping when the various This is a place of fun for the whole shops are gearing up for the festive family. If the weather treats you season with decorations and lights. badly on your visit just remember Match up your pub-experiences all the indoor excitement that and shopping for the ultimate effect can be found at the Science and and don’t forget the city’s varied Natural History Museums and at and plenti­­ful live music venues and the Tower of London. theaters.

Weather: Daytime tempera- tures reach a high of 10°C (50°F) and can fall as low as 4°C (39°F) at night. There’s an average of 3 hours of sunshine each day. audience interaction kick-start the Christmas season. The Hyde Dreamy December Park Winter Wonderland (see November) will be in full swing Weather: It’s almost winter The festive atmosphere of London during December. The seasonal and the average tempera- is truly special and a great way spirit continues as a host of temp­ ture in London is 6°C (43°F) with expected 3 sunny to get into the spirit is with a orary outdoor ice-skating rinks hours a day. pantomime. This unique theatrical pop up across the capital. Many tradition is perfect for the young are situated in striking venues How to get there? and young at heart as colorful and stunning parklands, including WOW air flies to London 13 times a characters, dastardly plots and medieval towers and neoclassical week all year round.

112 ı WOW is in the air TAKE THE WARMTH WOOL SWEATERS, ACCESSORIES, WITH BLANKETS, TRADITIONAL CRAFTS & MODERN YOU! ART www.alafoss.is 1896

ÁLAFOSSVEGUR 23 - MOSFELLSBÆR OPEN: MON. - FRI. 9.00 - 18.00 SAT. 9:00 - 16:00 LAUGAVEGUR 8 CITY CENTRE OPEN: 10:00 - 18:00 WOW autumn cities

Paris – Intimately yours

October is for art Plan to stay up late on the night Coeur produce only a small of Saturday, October 5, for the quantity of wine but this harvest The busy tourist season is coming 12th­ annual Nuit Blanche, or White festi­­val has a special place in the to an end and the city gets more Night, in Paris. This popu­lar event hearts of Parisians plus there is quiet and relaxed. Guests will have cele­­­brates art and culture and in wine tasting, local food specialties, more space to wander around Paris that means an endless line The fair city of and truly enjoy the fine museums of museums, galleries and other Paris does not dull and galleries without waiting on popular spots across the city will down in the fall. long lines. Wandering through one be open most of the night. Guests On the contrary it of Paris’ many elegant parks and are advised to take ad­­van­tage gardens is ideal on a sunny day. of the special exhibits and music literally sparkles As the colors of autumn arrive in events and to enjoy an artistic with fiery autumn Paris the parks are blanketed with evening out in Paris (visit White colors and invites falling leaves and the atmosphere Night web page for more infor­­ its guests to enjoy is unforgetta­ble; a romantic set up mation www.nuitblanche.paris. if ever there was one! fr). In Paris, if it’s not about art, it’s meditative strolls in But one can’t just walk around about wine, so for a truly autumnal crisp air, calm read- during a stay in Paris. Surely you experience in Paris you should music, street performances and ing in warm cafés will see something that catches head to Montmarte (18th arrondis­ a fireworks display. This is also a and dramatic dusks your eye during that leisurely stroll sement) for the Vendanges de great time to visit artist studios in and to top it off Paris hosts a vari­ Montmartre (October 9 – 13). The Montmartre. The Cité Montmartre in picturesque ety of fun and exciting events in vineyards on the hills around the aux Artistes houses 180 studios settings. October. brilliant white church of Sacré- and accommodations which

114 ı WOW is in the air 17th arrondissement near Mont­ martre for the Paris Short Film Festival (November 5 – 10) held at the Cinéma des Cinéastes – one of the most important short film festivals in the world. It’s also a great excuse to stay inside and rest your feet after a long day Paris of walking. The French national

holiday known as Armistice Day are the workplace and home of during the annual International (November 11) honors members painters,­­ sculptors, filmmakers, Contemporary Art Fair (October 24 of the armed forces who died photographers, musicians,­­­ writers, – 27). The fair, held in the gorgeous or were injured during war and designers, etc, who once a year setting of the Grand Palais with its commemorates the end of World (October 11 – 13) open their studios large glass dome, brings together War I. As this is a national holiday to the public enabling anyone the work of thousands of artists some museums and monuments interested in contemporary art to from around the world. Another may be closed or have limited enter into their creative universe. feast for the eyes and ears will take hours. Quiet contemplation is the Having had your fill of wine and place at the gardens at Versailles­­ of the male nude in art. For some, ‘word’ for November and so what’s art, you might want to do a little during Les Grandes Eaux Musicales, this will be a chance to learn more better suited to this theme than dancing as Paris goes a little tango the Musical Fountains Show. The about art history and for the rest a Paris Photo (November 14 – 17) mad. The bodies will be swaying show takes place every Saturday great chance to ogle at paintings of at the Grand Palais. This is an to the beat as the biggest names and Sunday from March through nude men. It’s a win-win. For those international fair of photography in Latino dance converge in Paris October and is not to be missed. traveling with a child (or on good from the 19th century to the pres­­ for the annu­­al Banlieues Tango terms with the child within) you ent. For more contemplation, al­­ Festival (October 9 –November might get them to behave at the though not as quiet, the Orchestr­­es 30). Venues are across the city museum if you promise them a trip en Fête (November 15 – 24), an and its suburbs and for six weeks Weather: October in Paris to Disney­­land Paris for the Bonfire annual classical music festival, Paris and several cities in Ile-de­- is generally mild and has an France pulse to the rhythm of the average temperature of 11°C tango. When you take a break from (52°F). dancing (or watching others dance) you can feast your eyes on the vintage car parade passing through Paris on October 13. Hundreds of November is for classic cars make their way through nourishment the city starting at Place Joffre near the Ecole Militaire at 10AM, November in Paris is a time for contemplation. The tourist numbers have dwindled down considerably so those who brave the autumn chills can treasure it more to them­­ selves. This is also a great time to see the actual people of Paris who Spectacular to celebrate Guy takes place throughout Fran have long since returned from their Fawkes Day (November 4, 6 and ce but Paris is still at the heart of summer vacations. 8). After a fun day of a­dventures at it presenting concerts by national After seeing the last of the fall the amusement park you can enjoy orchestras in beautiful venues then crossing the Seine to the colors brighten up the city, head on the magical show of fireworks, live across the city, including Théâtre Trocadéro. The parade can also be to Musée d’Orsay for more beauty. entertainment and a floating bonfire du Châtelet, Cité del la Musique spotted at Avenue Foch, the Arc de The running exhibition (ends on Lake Disney. In November this and more. Triomphe, Rue du Faubourg Saint January 2) is called Masculine / magical world also gets miraculously Yet another chance for con­­tem­ Honoré, Place Vendôme and Place Mascu­­line and aims to take an transformed into a Winter p­lation, the long-awaited release de l’Opéra in the heart of Paris. interpretive,­­­ playful, sociological Wonderland with snowy streets and of each year’s Beaujolais Nouveau Late in October the contem­por­­­ and philosophical approach to millions of twinkling lights. (November 21) comes at the stroke ary art scene in Paris comes­­ to life explor­­ing all aspects and meaning Film lovers will want to head to of midnight on the third Thursday Issue five ı 115 WOW autumn cities

At any given Christ­ mas market you’ll find holiday treats, tradi­ tional Christmas food and desserts, hand­ crafts and great gift ideas.

in November and there are about 120 festivals to honor the arrival of this young wine in the Beaujolais region alone, not to mention throug­hout France. Several bistros in Paris celebrate the release. To finish this month with a splash of color there’s Africolor (Novem­­­ ber 16 – December 22), a month- long African music festival that tak­­es place in various venues in the suburbs, including Montreuil, St Denis and St Ouen. By mid- Novem­­ber the streets are decked out for Christmas and at the big department stores such as Galeries Lafayette and Printemps it’s pretty impressive. Shopping in Paris is also more relaxing now than during the summer months, considering the lesser crowds. The serious café culture of Paris lets you enjoy the decorations over a hot cup of chocolat chaud or a warmed mull­ ed wine as the patrons turn up the outdoor heat lamps and stay on the sidewalks (partly because the guests can’t smoke indoors). And then there are the Christmas mark­ ets popping up all over the city hinting of the festive times ahead.

city’s most iconic spots, such as wonderful wintry feel right to the about subtly but elegantly ex­­citing a Weather: The weather in Paris can still be warm in Hotel de Ville, The Eiffel Tower and heart of Paris. The tree set up in sense of anticipation and joy. Paris November with an average the Trocadéro. At the Trocadéro, front of Notre-Dame Cathedral is in December is fairly relaxed­­ making temperature around 6°C located just across the Seine from not to be missed and what better this month an ideal time to take (42°F). the Eiffel Tower you will also find a backdrop for a great holiday photo advantage of the city’s many sights charming Christmas market. At any from Paris? and attractions, ex­­plor­­ing museums given Christmas market you’ll find Although this all sounds like Par­­ and attending special holiday December is for joy holiday treats, traditional Christmas isians­­ go Christmas-crazy during concerts. food and desserts, handcrafts Dec­­­­ember they are actually less As the holiday season arrives and great gift ideas. Stroll around, about shouting Christmas and more A Unique Design and Jewelry Store with twinkling lights up and down mull­­­­ed wine in hand, to get into the grand boulevards, shop win­­ the true Parisian Christmas spirit. dows are decked out with festi­­ve The most popular markets are at Weather: Snow is rare in Paris and if it comes it usu- in Downtown Reykjavik displays and the popular Christ­­ Champs-Elysées and Trocadéro but ally melts fast. Most days in mas markets arrive. Head to the you can find smaller markets set December are sunny with Champs Elysées for the most up in Place Saint Sulpice and Place an average temperature spectacular­­­ and popular Christmas Saint Germain des Prés in the 6th of 5°C. light display in Paris. It’s a magical arrondissement. Guaranteed to get time to be in this romantic city and you into the holiday spirit are the How to get there? a great time for gliding around the Christmas trees and in Paris there WOW air flies to Paris three times a week during the fall and winter months. ice skating rinks at some of the are thousands of them bringing a

116 ı WOW is in the air A Unique Design and Jewelry Store in Downtown Reykjavik WOW autumn cities

Berlin Wall.

BerlinBrilliant by Lilja Björk Haraldsdóttir Photos: Photos.com and Birtíngur Photo Archive The city of Berlin is a great place to visit during the autumn months. Being the capital of Germany and the culture capital of Europe, Berlin has plenty to offer the whole year round. With the onset of autumn, the city dresses up in glorious colors and with all the events, concerts, shows, Christmas markets and people, you will surely enjoy strolling around and experiencing this historical city.

118 ı WOW is in the air The events of historical event of German re­uni­­ Platz. From October to January October fication is celebrated every year the Spielzet’europa takes place In colorful October you can enjoy during a four-day-long folks’ festival showcasing­­ theater that incorpo­­ exploring the different neigh­bor­ around Brandenburg Gate and the rates new political and aesthetic hoods of Berlin as most of them “Straße des 17. Juni” (which oddly ideas from a specifically European have a number of cafés, cozy rest­ enough is also Iceland’s national perspective. However on a sunny aurants, markets and bars. Many of day). When you’ve had enough October day you may prefer to take the restaurants keep their outdoor of German unity, the Festival of it easy and enjoy the autumn sun area open throughout the month, Lights is sure to brighten up your as you stroll alongside the Berlin giving you a good op­portunity to day. From the October 9 – 20, Wall. The wall, with its immense observe and enjoy the Berliners’ Berlin is all about “lightseeing”, history, is now covered in graffiti daily life. If you are eager to see where historical landmarks such made by street artists from around KUKI. more, head on up to the Berliner as the TV-Tower, the Berliner Dom the world who commentate the for the weekend as the program is Fernsehturm (Tv-Tower) situated and the Brandenburg Gate sparkle history and meaning of this historic packed from early evening to late on Alexanderplatz where you can with illuminations, projections and landmark. morning! If you have little ones be sure to check out the Berliner Märch­­ en­­tage (November 7 – 24) or the Weather: October in Berlin Fairytale Festival. Held for the 24th has temperatures around time this year the festival’s tagline 10°C (50°F) to 13°C (55°F) is “Around the World in 18 Days” and is generally sunny. with its focus on fairytales and stor­­ies from the French speaking world. Children will surely be The notes of enraptured by stories told of bold November adventures and musical events in a In November everything is about carnival setting. music and you can list­­en to some As mentioned above Berlin has excellent tunes from almost every a lot to offer. In mid-November you genre. It kicks off with Jazzfest can curl up in cine­­mas around town Berlin (October 31­ – November as two inter­­national film festivals 3) at the Berliner Fest­­spiele in take place. KUKI (November 10 © visitBerlin | Scholvien Charlottenburg. This festival has – 17) is an international short film get a 360° view of the city and see fire­­works; certainly a sight not to doo-woopped in Berlin since 1964 festival for children and youth attractions such as the Reichstag be missed. and offers a wide spectrum of presenting an amazing mix of (Parliament building), Brandenburg If you’d rather experience the smooth and playful jazz sounds entertaining and thought-provoking Gate and the Main Railway Station, cultivating and innovative art scene with performances by both fresh short films for tiny kids, curious as well as Olympic Stadium, of Berlin you should visit Berliner out artists and big time talents. children and teens. For the grown- Museum Island (Museumsinsel) and Festspiele in Charlottenburg where If however, dance music is your ups there is the 29th International Potsdam ­Squ­are (Potsdamer Platz). throughout the year there’s a range thing the Berlin Music Days or Short Film Festival (November 12 If you are around during the 3rd of imaginative and intelligent festi­­ “BerMuDa” (November 6 – 10) is – 17) where the focus is on short of October make sure you visit vals, excellent exhibition projects what you should be doing. The filmmaking in all its diversity with Brandenburg Gate and get a sense and individual events in the Haus festival is held in various venues 7 competitions, numerous special of union as the Germans celebrate der Berliner Festspiele and the around the city, so put your dance programs and events in 7 cinemas The Day of German Unity. The Martin-Gropuis-Bau in Potsdamer shoes on and forget about sleeping and additional locations in Berlin.

Festival of lights. Jazzfest © visitBerlin | Günter Steffen

Issue five ı 119 Ice skating in front of Berlin City Hall. © visitBerlin | Scholvien.

Decorative Arts and Design Fair. New Years Eve at the Brandenburg Gate © SpreePIX Media. home then dusky December. At at the Brandenburg Gate or the the Decorative Arts and Design Kreuzberg Hill in Viktoriapark­­ where Fair (December 5 – 8) located the locals head to celebrate New in the Deutsches Historisches Years. With Berliners’­­ enthusiasm­ Berliner Märchentage. Photo: Jürgen Sendel. Museum you will find specifically for tossing­­ firecrack­­ ers­­ and launch­­­­­­­ selected artists presenting their ing rockets from windows this In late November, for electronic quality products for everyday use. always­­ is an expressive,­­ noisy and music enthusiasts, there is the And expect to be impressed, we ventur­­e­­some night were everybody four day Worldtronics Festival in all know the Germans are good at celebrates. What better way to begin Tiergarten celebrating the world of Weather: November has designing things! To get into the your New Year than among thous­ electronic music. Berlin is known an average temperature of real Christmas spirit you should ands of fetzig Berliners! for its immense electronic music around 6°C (42°F). Make visit St. Matthäuskirche situated sure to take advantage of scene so this festival should not be within the Kulturforum complex the sunny hours each day. a disappointment to anyone inter­­ near Potsdamer Platz. It is a neo- ested in the genre. Guest musicians Romanesque church and during the come from all over the world while advent they offer Christmas con­­ the trade fair covers everything from The joy of December certs and an exhibitions program.­­ books, clubs and labels to software December is a great time to visit If you’re staying in Berlin during and sound la­­boratories. Berlin thanks to the considerable Christmas and New Years you´ll swing into the festive season. With also catch a fun local tradition, the a number of Christmas markets all Berliner Silvesterlauf or the Pan­­ New Years Eve at the Brandenburg Gate © SpreePIX Media. over the city you are sure to get cake Run! It is a New Year’s Eve in the holiday spirit, buying some Run that starts off in Grunewald at unique and quirky Christmas gifts the intersection of Waldschulallee for your loved ones and getting and Harbigstrasse. With both warm­­ed by some mulled wine and adults and children participating, Weather: Berlin has an aver- age temperature of ca. 4°C ginger­bread. If you’d rather do often wearing funny costumes in December but it can go your shopping inside, head down and face paint it’s certainly fun to over 10°C on the best days. to Pots­­damer Platz Arkaden where see. After you’ve cheered for the there are over 130 shops, restau­­ runners you can ring in the New rant and cafés on three levels. Year by hugging strangers, swigg­­ How to get there? WOW air offers flights to Berlin three What better time to get new ing sparkling wine straight from the times a week during autumn and winter. Photo: © visitBerlin | Scholvien. inspirations and ideas for your bottle and generally misbehaving­­ 120 ı WOW is in the air Book now ouR app is on your We’ll tAKe smartphone! FREE You can easily buy your tour with us now! YoU tHeRe! Available! All tHe moSt excitiNG in the Android play Store plAceS iN icelAND & Apple App Store.

Book noW at your reception by calling 580 5400 on www.re.is

expeRieNce A GReAt DAY WitH US!

and on ouR Free WiFi Hotspot on More Tours available WEBsiTE in our brochures WWW.RE.is board our coaches.

RelAx At For our very flexible schedule the Blue lagoon kindly consult our brochures or visit www.flybus.is

From KeF Airport From Blue lagoon Bus fare to the Adults (+16) to Blue lagoon to KeF Airport Blue lagoon pRice 8900 iSK 09:15, 12:45, 16:15 12:15 & 14:15. Fast, frequent & on schedule & 17:15. & admission 14–15 years From Reykjavík From Blue lagoon Duration: Flexible. every day of the week. to Blue lagoon to Reykjavík Included: Return bus fare pRice 4450 iSK 09:00, 10:00, 11:00, 11:15, 12:15, 13:15, & admission to the 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 14:15, 15:15, 16:15, Blue Lagoon. 0–13 years 15:00, 16:00, 17:00 17:15, 18:15, 19:15 Pick up: Up to 30 minutes FRee oF & 18:00. & 21:15. before departure. cHARGe Free WiFi Hotspot on board our coaches.

ReYKjAvíK KeF AiRpoRt ReYKjAvíK citY

You can buy your ticket at our tour desk in the arrival hall at Keflavík Airport.

BSÍ Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavík +354 580 5400 OR [email protected] www.re.is • EMS 582904 www.flybus.is WOW autumn cities

CopenhagenGet creative in

by Lilja Björk Haraldsdóttir

Good old Copenhagen with its cobblestone streets, old buildings and cozy atmosphere. It is a great city to visit during the autumn months. Being a lover of the arts, Copenha- gen boasts of artistic and entertaining things to do and see throughout the year.

October make sure you catch a glimpse more taken by the world of film – Oh so much to see! of the World Press Photo exhi­­bi­­ then you should introduce yourself tion (October 4-30) at Pressen, to MIX, (October 4-13) which is one In beautiful October there’s plenty Politikens Hus, where you can of the oldest LGBT film festivals to see and experience, be it con­­ review last year’s biggest head­­­ in the world and is held at sixteen certs, art shows, exhibitions or the lin­­es and some smaller stories various film venues, bars and caf­­ good old Tivoli. In the Tivoli they through stunning photography es throughout the city. The 28th start off with the H.C Andersen inst­­ead of lengthy articles. From annual celebration should be quite fairytale show running for the controversial and shocking photos­­ a steamy film festival with plenty of whole of October where you can of war and turmoil in the Middle parties and events around town. en­­counter different characters and East to inspiring sports shots and Forum in Copenhagen will be stories from the treasure chest of incredible moments in nature taken over by women for three one of Denmark’s greatest writers. caught on camera, it is photo­­ days for the Femina Fair (October If photography is your thing, journalism at its best. If you are 4-6), a special women’s exhibition.

122 ı WOW is in the air you the exceptional opportunity to though because the Tivoli will turn go see sites that are usually closed into a scare zone for everyone to the general public. A pass for aged 12 and over. only 36 DKK grants you admiss­­ ion­ Go search for some treasures as to all the venues and free trans­ Forum in Copenhagen overflows portation, so don’t let this night pass with antiquities on October 12-13. Copenhagen you by without getting cultural. Visit one of the biggest second­­ The Halloween celebration in the hand markets in the city for a Tivoli (October 11-27) is a perfect bargain on anything you can think November way for the whole family to have of. There will be over 500 stalls – Nice times some fun together, and possibly a so it’s guaranteed you will find Music, dance and good times will little scare. To set the atmosphere some­­thing you’ve been looking prevail in Copenhagen during Women of all age groups can the gardens will be decorated with for. When you’re done antiquing November. It starts with the annual go and learn the latest trends in all the traditional harvest para­ you can check out the residence Irish Festival (November 7-10) fashion, food, beauty, decoration phernalia such as pumpkins and of the Danish Royal Family by vis­­ celebrated­­ by dancing to Gaelic and culture. Bring your mom, sister, scarecrows and the stalls will have it­­ing Amalienborg Palace, their music and having parties with a lots friend or daughter and enjoy the Halloween themed foods and toys. wint­er residence since 1974. The of food and whiskey. In addition fashion shows, live entertainment After 6pm you better watch out palace is actually like a compound there will also be poetry readings, and food samples, and while you’re of four different palaces because lectures, art exhibitions and show­­ at it why not pick up some new it was originally built for four noble ing of Irish films. tricks on how to dress, do make-up families. After the Christianborg Dansescenen is a thrilling event and live a healthier lifestyle? Palace burned down, the Royal in early November when dancers On October 11 you can join the Family purchased Amalienborg and from Scandinavian countries de­­ cele­­bration of Culture Night and moved in. scend on Copenhagen to per­­form use this chance to spend the their dances. Different styles in whole evening indulging in arts modern dances will be per­­form­ed and culture. Up to 300 museums, and made the subject of dance libraries, galleries, churches, histor­ Weather: In October the workshops, lectures and talks. The ical government buildings and daily temperature averages inter­action between the artists around 10°C but can drop to ot­her venues will be open from and people of these countries 7°C. You still get to enjoy the 6pm until midnight or beyond. This autumn sun as it is expected results in a greater understanding is one of the best nights to be a an average of 8 hours a day. and appreciation for each other’s tourist in Copenhagen and gives cultures. Issue five ı 123 WOW autumn cities

If you are up for some dirty jokes, crazy laughs and a bit of burlesque dancing make sure you don’t miss out on the Crazy Christmas Cabaret (premiered November 7) at Glasssalen Tivoli. This year it’s all about Smartacus - the slave who lived his life like a sandal in the wind! Music, comedy, drama, lavish costumes, amazing dance and an exuberant feast of the greatest hits, it’s been voted the best fun of the season, year after year. However if you’d rather curl up with a good book and a cup of tea in the winter cold we recommend the Book fair in Bella Center (November 8). The fair features a large selection of Danish and foreign writers, debates, discussions and book sign­­ings, mixed with a crowd of book loving people. From mid-November the Christ­­ mas markets start popping up and The Christmas tree at City Hall. Photo: Christian Alsing. the streets get filled with heart­­ warming­­ Christmas decora­ tions.­­ mas tree at City Hall. There’s no excellent retail therapy session. When December comes to its The Christmas markets in Højbro better way to inaugurate the joyous Don’t forget to check out the Tivoli absolute end you can join count­ Plads, Nyhavn and Københagen season. But Christmas is also in the city center, maybe the most less Copenhagen locals and visi­ K are to be recommended as well about shopping and you are just Christmassy place around, and tors at the New Year celebration is the Christmas program in the in time for Copenhagen’s annual stop by for a cup of cocoa or check at Amalienborg, the Royal Palace, Tivoli that starts November 15 and Christmas Flea market. The flea out their Christmas program with and wish everyone a happy New runs throughout December with market is abundant with precious concerts, shows and markets. Year. It’s also a great chance to see concerts, entertaining shows, mark­­ Celebrating Christmas in the Royal Guard Parade in red gala ets and the like. There is no better Copenhagen is a wonderful thing uniforms. place to get into the festive spirit for everyone. Sports fans get but in the good old Tivoli in Copen­­ some­­thing to tickle their fancy at hagen. the Copenhagen Masters, a high ranking badminton tournament that takes place between Christ­ Weather: The average daily temperature is now at 2°C, mas and New Year’s Eve. A trip to a clear indication that winter Weather: Daily temperature Copenhagen will never be com­­ has arrived. On average you is around 5°C and the sun plete without seeing the statue can expect 4 sunny hours a is not as prominent as in of the Little Mermaid, which was day and despite the tempera- October. You can still expect sculpted based on the much lov­­ ture Copenhagen is buzzing about 5 sunny hours a day ed fairytale of Hans Christian with activity as it celebrates on average in November. Christmas lavishly. Ander­­sen. The statue’s head was modeled after a prima ballerina

while the body was modeled after How to get there? December Photo: Morten Jerichau. the sculptor’s wife when the baller­ WOW air flies to Copenhagen 10 times – Do some shopping finds at really low prices such as ina refused to pose in the nude. a week. Copenhagen may be the best Royal porcelain plates, beautifully place to go in December if it’s preserved clothes and furniture. the Christmas spirit and a cozy Just remember that when shopping at­­mosphere that you’re seeking. at a flea market always bring cash The Danes are big on making and an extra pair of strong arms to this joyous season the best there help carry your booty. is with shops decorating their Of course you have to take a win­­dows, people selling sugar al­­ walk down Strøget, the longest monds and pancakes on the street, pe­­destrian shopping area in choirs singing hymns and just a Europe with some of the most fam­­ general spreading of Christ­­mas joy. ous and expensive stores there If you are in Copenhagen on are. It is a shopping heaven for December 1, make sure you don’t those in search of the perfect gift, miss the lighting of the big Christ­­ a souvenir or simply to have an

124 ı WOW is in the air Auglysing_110x160.pdf 1 9/4/13 11:43 PM

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class at the community college vice your obsessive-compulsive Here’s the message they gave but you will soon be kicked out cleaning will get you into trouble. me: “Become a Madonna im- because “I say so and yo mamma So try and stop it, OK? personator - bleep. You can do is fat” is not a real argument. it - bleep.” Hey, we’re just passing this on. Okay?!

Libra Cancer 23 September - 23 October 22 June - 22 July Your high sense of fashion Capricorn If your think someone is screwing knows no boundaries (in your 22 December - 19 January you over you’re probably right. opinion) and when you try to be Please stop organizing every- The reason why you will not be a trendsetter later this month thing and start living your life, Aries invited to that party is because you will fail miserably. This will meeting your friends and having 21 March - 19 April you always bring up uncomfort- result in you doubting every- some quality time. And NO! Don’t Try not to attract attention in the able topics. You know, no one thing you thought you knew organize it! Put down the calen- weeks to come. Now is a good wants to discuss sewage pipes about fashion, getting you dar, and delete the organizing time to learn the art of disguise. and rats at a party! Your effort to the conclusion that you’re apps on your phone and your Just remember that camouflage to make a career out of staying better off as a follower, anyway. tablet. Don’t try to organize this suits are not to be relied on. Peo- in bed and do nothing will gain Then you will go on a bender at all! The stars have some fun ple can still see you, even if you some headway this month or the and try to explain the difference in store for you but they can al- crouch and remain very still. You next, but you will be too tired between café latté and café au ready see that your planning will should make some Mexican food from the accomplishment to lait to everyone. ruin it if you don’t stop right now! and eat it all by yourself. notice the offers you‘ve gotten as a result of it and thus, have to show up at the office for years to come. Sorry!

Scorpio Aquarius Taurus 24 October - 21 November 20 January - 18 February 20 April - 20 May Trying to cheat at the lottery At a very sad wake you will meet Make sure to compliment your again? That’s not good. Your the person of your dreams. Try friends whenever you meet Leo resentment over never having not to drive them away with your them. If you can‘t think of any- 23 July - 22 August been abducted by aliens grows affinity for being naked in public thing really nice to say, tell them Trying to evoke shock by pre- worse in the coming weeks, so and discussing your out-of- they‘re looking “very buff“. That tending that you’re gay, when much so that you start writing body experiences. While eating will please them but also make you’re not, will result in neither letters to politicians asking them breakfast one morning Jesus will them slightly uneasy resulting in sex wanting to hook up with for contacts. When you get that appear in your Fruit Loops. No added time in front of the mirror. you and so you find yourself call from outer space … (Sorry one will believe you so just say hi Your social convention defiance having a romantic evening the government asked me not to to him and then let it be. will soon reach new heights as alone, which is what you prefer disclose any specifics, this is top you‘ll refuse to wear clothes in anyway. While hanging yet secret stuff.) Let’s just say you will the “normal“ fashion (if at all) and another picture of yourself on finally see that everything you’ve start speaking like a Rastafarian, the wall of your apartment you imagined about this is right, plus even at the office. will accidentally maim your there’ll be a few surprises. toes. No one will understand how you did it and you will be too embarrassed to tell. Pisces 19 February - 20 March Your friend will ask you for your honest opinion on his artwork and if you don‘t want him committing Gemini Sagittarius hara-kiri on the floor – lie! This will 21 May - 21 June 22 November - 21 December result in you becoming the owner Mooning people at a wedding Your love for adventure has of a 2x3 meter painting of cow is clearly no way to win points, Virgo probably resulted in you coming dung that your friend insists that especially if it’s your own wed- 23 August - 22 September across this magazine. And while you take to your place and hang ding and the “people” are your Stop cleaning everything! And it may not look like it, you‘re in your living room. Well maybe in-laws. You will pick a fight with a stop sorting your laundry by color surely one of the lucky ones, you won‘t lie to him then. The small child and lose because the and fabric, the washing machines Sagittarius-wise anyway. This choice is yours. child has better arguments. After have a program for that, you shows how the stars have a Disclaimer: This horoscope is total and utter that, you sign up for a debate nonsence. Any accuracies, real or imagined by know. Unless you heed this ad- chance to influence your future. readers, are purely incidental.

126 ı WOW is in the air Open Sunday - thursday 9pm to 1am Friday and saturday 9pm to 4:30am

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Really, really bored? Here are a few sudokus to make time fly. But how do I do it? The object is to insert the numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: each row, column and 3x3 box must contain the digits 1 through 9 exactly once. What could be simpler?

128 ı WOW is in the air

The Traveling Inquisition

Benedikt Erlingsson is a man of many trades. He’s one of Iceland’s best known actors and has appeared in numerous works both on stage and screen. He has been awarded the Icelandic Theatre Awards (The Edda) for his theatrical performances, both as a director and an actor and as he puts it, he’s a storyteller who tells the stories of others as well as writing his own. Benedikt is also a husband and a father to three girls which according to him is a full job in itself. This winter he will be performing­ in a play called Jeppe of The Hill by Ludvig Holberg who Benedikt says was both Norwegian and Danish, and the 2300 year old play Aristophanes called “Assemblywomen”. The Traveling Inquisition apprehended Benedikt the other day and managed to ask him a few questions before he escaped through the bathroom window.

Of horses, men and travels by Dísa Bjarnadóttir Photo: Eggert Jóhannesson

ecently Benedikt added some­­­one is a horse (hross) if we hours I chatted with a Catalonian the title film-director think they’re primitive,” explains “It’s stories of un­ tomato-farmer about Spanish to his résumé when Benedikt.­­ tamed people. I and Icelandic agriculture,” says Rhis directorial debut in Benedikt’s favorite place in guess you could Benedikt and admits that he film was released, a film called Iceland is Möðrudalur á Fjöllum. say that it’s about would love to travel to Tokyo “Of Horses and Men” (Hross “That’s the place I would most Icelandic horses and Lubeck. “I think we’re the í oss). He says this film is one recommend for foreigners to and a horse.” last generation who gets to that foreign visitors can easily visit as well, to experience the travel with airplanes all over the enjoy as there is very little of the complete silence up in the food, the culture and, of course, world. We should enjoy it and spoken word in the film and it high mountains of Iceland.” His all the people who will be app­­ appreciate it. No other genera- can be universally understood. favorite place abroad is San lauding me for my film,” he adds tions in the history of humankind “It’s stories of untamed people. Sebastián in the Basque Coun- jokingly. It is obvious from his have had the freedom that our I guess you could say that it’s try. “I’ll be taking my film there travel stories that Benedikt loves part of the world has had for the about Icelandic horses and a to compete in a film festival in talking to people. “There was past fifty years. This might not horse. Sometimes in Icelandic September. What I love about this one time I was on a train last and should not be taken for we use the expression that San Sebastián is definitely the from Sevilla to Barcelona. For six granted.”

130 ı WOW is in the air … for outdoor enthusiasts Michelsen Arctic Explorer

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