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COSMETICS SPRAY TECHNOLOGY MARKETING

Actives Sustainable new sources of actives for cosmetics

Ingredients How safe are the controversial chemicals used in cosmetics?

Marketing Fragrance allergies – an overview of the current position

Packaging Cosmopack review – new ideas at a glance

VIP of the Month

Dr. Gerd Mildau from the CVUA and Birgit Huber of the IKW offer some comments on the new EU Cosmetics Regulation

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www.cossma.com EDITORIAL

A few hot topics …

In the March issue of COSSMA fragrance houses spoke about how, in their view, they saw the impact of the SCCS statement on the subject of fragrance aller- gies. Some readers were surprised to see that the big international fragrance houses were not represented here. We did in fact ask international manufacturers for their views, but none was ready at that time to make a public statement. We can only speculate about what was stopping them. In the current issue starting on page 20 we now pres- ent a general statement from the point of view of an

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Download-services at www.cossma.com/download or scan the QR code now! Your access codes for May: ta Cosmetics, is convinced that biotechnically-obtained User name: cossma5 Password: active peptides will become ever more important when offering

You can get faster access to the additional information available using our consumers products to tackle a specific role rather than QR codes and our e-paper. The e-paper, which will run on all tablet PCs, gives you to direct links to TV clips, downloads, book tips, and more. fobbing them off with very general anti-ageing claims. He sees other trends as pre-ageing actives to combat damag- ing environmental influences, actives to combat free radi- end product manufacturer and a perfumer, which, cals like superfruits, and soothing actives of natural origin among other things makes clear, the potential impact to reinforce the skin’s barrier for sensitive users, as well as of a rush to introduce legislation, for example on the carrier systems where, given the uncertainty about nano - bath additives sector. technology, they can carry the active substance to exactly Another topic that is taxing the brains of the cosmet- where it is needed. And what other active ingredient ics industry is the following: there are still plenty of trends are there? You can discover more in an interview studies being published that tell us how the inclusion with Babor’s head of R&D Andrea Weber, on page 16. in cosmetics products of chemical substances can cause cancer, lack of reproductive ability or other damaging effects on fertility. Is there anything in all I hope you enjoy this issue, this? You can read starting on page 12 the consid- yours ered view of toxicologist Dr. Gerhard Nohynek, who was head of global safety evaluation at L’Oréal for many years. A further topic that the industry is having to think Angelika Meiss about is the new EU Cosmetics Directive. We can see Senior editor, COSSMA how sorting out legal details is not everyone’s “cup of tea”, but the practical comments in the form of an in- terview with Dr. Gerd Mildau of the German CVUA, giving the views of the monitoring authorities, and Follow us on with Birgit Huber of the IKW giving the views of the association (starting on page 24), will be a useful aid www.linkedin.com/in/cossma www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine to many people when assessing the Directive. Trends in active ingredients are another focus in this issue. Jürgen Singer, MD and head of R&D at Neovi- www.facebook.com/cossmamagazin www.youtube.de/cossmatv

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Contents 3 Editorial ࡯ NEWS 8 Markets + Profiles

࡯ FOCUS Actives 10 a Angela Kleiner, Croda: Stem cells and meristematic cells – New sources of actives for cosmetics 12 a Dr. Gerhard Nohynek, formerly L’Oréal: 10 I Plant-based meris- Are parabens safe in cosmetics? tematic cells for some 16 Interview with Andrea Weber, Babor: very promising actives Trend-setting actives in view 19 Vivienne Rudd, Mintel: International launches

࡯ MARKETING 20 a Interview with Dr. Rainer Wohlfart, Kneipp-Werke, and Erich Schmidt, perfumer: 24 I The most The statement by the SCCS – important new The key points summarised requirements in the 23 Star of the Month: Cosmetics Directive – Detergent with two-chamber technology short and to the point ࡯ PRODUCTION 24 a Interview with Dr. Gerd Mildau, CVUA, and Birgit Huber, IKW: The new EU Cosmetics Directive – Short and to the point: What is really changing? 26 New Ingredients 28 a Cosmopack 2013 – New ideas at a glance 32 Lars Scheidweiler, Sappi: Paperboard’s numerous and versatile advantages for strong branding 35 Airless – A breath of fresh air, but not for cosmetics 36 Packaging News

࡯ SERVICES Cosmopack 28 I 6 Download List review: new ideas 38 Formulations: Natural cosmetics at a glance 41 Events Diary 43 International B2B Exchange 44 Suppliers‘ Guide 48 Company Index 48 Advertisers‘ Index 49 Masthead Page 50 Trend statement by Markus Lüthy, Elfetin Cosmetics 50 Preview 32 I How white cardboard can

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www.cossma.com PersonalCare

Vivillume™ Recapture Skin’s Youthful Vitality

**66-5945,.459*)952-,79,.945526929451+245'09 Key Claims 7.-,+-6925242)1597945'-1*)9,+5925242)159.9'249 – Restores skin luminosity *5),2,*.)92.1*2,5'9*,+9,+59455)159.95 159 – Promotes even skin tone *6*4-*)954*5'94.9,+59 +*,59
*4'9.93242'*5962),09 9 99*+,9-)'54!5759'2491*4165 ,+*9)59*)45'*5),9*4.59*)9,.)59,.97*56'9291652409 9 995145259-)'54!5759-(9)5 *66-*)2,5'91.65 *.) – Healthy youthful complexion For more information, please visit us at NYSCC Suppliers’ 595569 Day, 14-15 May, Booth #701! &9 2,549 9Strelitzia nicolai /55'9 4*69 ,421,

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SERVICES DOWNLOAD

Free Downloads for Subscribers www.cossma.com/download

COSSMA Download-Tip Click through our Web TV clips: Powerful innovation management www.cossma.com/tv Innovation and innovation management have been used as mantras in all indus- tries for a long time. But how can they be applied successfully? In spite of all the customer-focused approaches in today’s organizations, some do not even know who their customer is. This is why it is important to get out of the office or lab- oratory and watch your customers work, live and play. Hans W. Steisslinger . . . explains just how complex . . . explains why Technotraf, a specialist for wood in successful innovation packaging, is a great addition to the Quadpack group management really is. of companies. COSSMA subscribers can download further back- ground information.

A clearly structured inno - vation process should be

photo: Bonninstudio/Shutterstock.com photo: implemented

Top-Downloads for May

. . . • Background: … points out in which areas of colour cosmetics packaging Alternative Carrier Systems the innovation process was most dynamic. (Sopharcos)

• Literature References: Advertising and promotion of cosmetic products

• Product Information: BergaMuls ET 1 (Berg & Schmidt)

. . . • Formulation: Washable Facial Mask … talks about the company’s recent launches, many of (Lehmann & Voss) Fotalia.de Sorohin, Nikolai photo: which are very suitable for natural cosmetics.

Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA Downloads web site we post lots of additional information elated to the topics covered in the magazine. Additional information at You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items www.cossma.com/download to extend your knowledge and understanding: or you can just scan more information on the ingredients and the QR code! Your access codes finished products that we cover, market data and statistics, supplier listings, literature references, . . . for May: User name: cossma5 scientific articles, product formulations and useful . . . explains the different aspects of the design relaunch for Password: active base formulations. Take a look right now, at the Beiersdorf brand „Nivea“. www.cossma.com/download

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THE NATURAL PROGRESSION IN BIOACTIVES

Bring an entirely new level of efficacy and differentiation to anti-aging skincare with Recentia® plant serum fractions. Derived from living plant or marine sources using patented Zeta Fraction™ technology, these ingredients offer unparalleled benefits. Recentia® ingredients are bioactive plant fractions with potent anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant and photo-stabilization activity. Capturing the synergy that exists within the plant cell, Recentia® ingredients target multiple biological pathways responsible for skin aging. They include only naturally-occurring substances without any modification, making them completely sustainable, reproducible and safe differentiators for your skincare formulation.

For more information, visit akzonobel.com/personalcare We think you’ll be amazed.

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NEWS MARKETS + PROFILES

Beiersdorf: CPL Aromas: Drom: Kneipp-Werke: ... Dr. Jürgen Blaak Rahn: Georg W. Claussen Begum Oner Mark B. Murphy Dr. Peter Staib and ... Dr. Martin Köther

People Beiersdorf I Georg W. and responsible for Europe and of Lausanne in the department Claussen, Honorary Chairman North America, has left the of dermatology and a leader of Adina Chemicals I Ken of Beiersdorf, died in Hamburg company. newly qualified students at the Jones who previously worked as aged 100. As CEO and Head Leibniz-Institute at the University Technical Innovations Sales Man- of the Supervisory Board, CPL Aromas I Begum Oner, of Jena, has, since his post-doc- ager Personal Care at Stephen- Claussen, the grand nephew of who previously worked for IFF toral lecturing qualification been son has joined the company as Dr. Oscar Troplowitz who invent- as Sales Manager, has been ap- section head of cosmetics in the part of the technical sales team. ed Nivea Creme in 1911, left a pointed Business Development R&D department of Kneipp. The He will also continue to chair the lasting mark on Beiersdorf. In the Manager responsible for the dermatologist Dr. Jürgen Blaak, Society of Cosmetic Scientists 22 years as CEO from 1957 until Turkish market based at offices who as part of his microbiology Wales and West RDG. 1979 he built Beiersdorf into an in Istanbul. and skin physiology research international company growing was looking into the function of Avon I Lauren Andersen has sales by nearly thirty times, intro- Drom I Mark B. Murphy, previ- the epidermal barrier, now heads been named Global Celebrity duced brands such as 8x4, atrix ously with IFF, Givaudan and up the area of dermatology and Make-up Artist to serve as a and ph5 Eucerin and repur- Symrise, has now joined Drom cosmetic science. global spokesperson for the chased the rights to Nivea Fragrances in Towaco, NJ as Avon Color brand. The newly brands that in many countries Senior Account Manager in the Rahn I Dr. Martin Köther, previ- revamped color line, launching in had been confiscated during US sales team. ously Technical Sales Manager the summer of 2013, has been the Second World War and sold at Mani, now holds the same reformulated featuring Color to other companies. Peter Feld, Kneipp-Werke I The highly post at Rahn with responsibility Reveal Technology to deliver who has been on the Beiersdorf qualified microbiologist Dr. Peter for North Germany and the high-impact color. board since August 2010 Staib, who was at the University Benelux countries.

We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality www.stolz-concept.de

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FOCUS: ACTIVES INGREDIENTS

Stem cells and meristematic cells New sources of actives for cosmetics

Since 2008 we have heard words such as plant stem cells, native An active from com- plant cells, plant cell technology, epidermal mother cells and adult mon lilac reduces in- stem cells as part of an exciting new cosmetics trend. Angela flamed papules and skin redness Kleiner of Croda offers an overview of the latest developments and some future plans.

stem cells can be at the origin of cells brane is estimated to be about 2–7%. of all tissue types. In the human body They migrate from the bulge region at this means around 220 different cell the hair follicle into the basal mem- types. They originate from the toti or brane since they are better protected pluripotent stem cells which can be from environmental influences in the observed as far as the 8-cell stage in bulge region. the embryonic development. Only The multipotent stem cells divide these early stem cells are in a position symmetrically or asymmetrically. In to form a total organism. this way it is ensured that they repli- cate themselves and new differentiat- photo: Mikhail Hoboton Popov, Shutterstock.com Popov, Hoboton Mikhail photo: Working on epidermal ed cell types are formed. stem cells The epidermis acts as a protective or the first time in 2008 a new an- The adult stem cells in the skin play shield against the outside environ- Fti-ageing care was to announced an important part in homeostasis and ment. It constantly regenerates itself that would protect epidermal wound healing. Their ability to renew to ensure that it always acts as an stem cells and support the skin’s abili- themselves in an unrestricted manner effective barrier. ty to regenerate, which tends to fall off ensures that the epidermis remains in- The stem cells contribute to the with age. tact. Their content in the basal mem- constant renewal of the epidermis. The This gave stem cell technology an impact of hazardous materials such as introduction into the world of cosmet- oxidants does however change their ics. Products that are now commercial- environment, their phenotype, and af- Highly effective cosmetics ingredients ly available are mainly based on two obtained from plants – in an environ- fect their future ability to proliferate. concepts. Apart from protecting the mentally friendly and sustainable way A common way of confirming the re- skin’s mature stem cells active sub- generation potential of stem cells is to stances from plant stem cells or, even measure their cloning ability. Using better, meristematic cells are used and this method cells are disseminated in can produce a very wide range of low density and after a specific period actions. of time one counts the number of colonies with the naked eye. Adult stem cells The number of colonies makes it in the epidermis possible to estimate the cloning abili- In contrast to the embryonic stem ty of the original cell population. cells the epidermal stem cells belong The Resistem active was tested to the group of multi-potent adult using this protocol. In comparison stem cells which, in a limited number, with a control culture the number of can differentiate into different cell cells was greater by a factor of 2.3. types. For example from an epidermal This ingredient thus prevents the stem cell no liver cells can evolve. Dif- changeover to the differentiated status ferent from the multipotent epidermal and maintains the proliferation poten-

stem cells the so-called pluripotent Shutterstock.com Imagery, Kinetic photo: tial of the stem cells.

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INGREDIENTS FOCUS: ACTIVES

Actives from plant-based proves the cells’ economic use of meristematic cells energy. Anti-oxidative ele- ments from the It is not only the epidermal stem In application studies it was seen protected alpine cells that are of interest as the skin’s that skin redness was reduced and edelweiss plant own source of regeneration, but also irregularities in the skin seemed can be used plant-based meristematic cells, which smoother. Furthermore a soothing of thanks to plant cell technology are a source of new and innovative the skin was measured. The G. cordifo- actives. Here there is a fundamental lia plant, living under harsh condi- difference between human and plant tions, has developed a protection stem cells. Plant stem cells are located mechanism which also acts on the skin photo: Porojnicu Stelian, Shutterstock.com in the apical meristem and continu- and strengthens the skin’s defensive ously produce the cells required for the power. plant to survive. A complete new or- The alpine edelweiss, Leontopodi- tion. An application study with volun- ganism can develop from all meristem- um alpinum, is one of the most well- teers between the ages of 15 and 25 atic cells. At interfaces or fractures known and symbolic alpine flowers. confirmed the reduction in inflamma- complexes of undifferentiated cells are These are flowers which are in danger tory spots and pustules and has a clear formed with a meristematic character. of disappearing in Germany and Aus- effect in reducing skin redness. These plant-based stem cells are rela- tria und are now the subject of official tively easy to access. Of particular in- protection. Plant cell technology So where are we heading? terest are secondary plant-based in- opens up access to the active sub- In particular with regard to food- gredients that cannot be easily synthe- stance Leontocell. Its defined content stuffs and cosmetics consumers are in- sised or extracted. However, their of antioxidative leontopodic acid al- creasingly asking how the ingredients cultivation and elicitation, i.e. the tar- lows the hyaluronidase and colla - are obtained and where they originate. geted link to these biosynthetically de- genase to be reduced. An application At the same time products must con- study confirmed that with all of the test tinue to meet performance require- Downloads volunteers the wrinkles around the ments and to be effective. eyes were significantly less. In skin care today there are sustain- Additional information at health-and-beauty.com/ The Echinacell active is obtained able and environmentally friendly ac- qr00120 from the meristematic cells of the tives being produced with proven effi- or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for May: Echinacea angustifolia (cone flower). cacy. Only in recent years closer atten- User name: cossma5 Password: active Using in vitro studies with fibroblasts it tion has been paid to secondary plant was seen that it had a stimulating ef- ingredients. The more we discover fined ingredients, requires a funda- fect on collagen production. In an in vi- about these extremely interesting sub- mental technological expertise vo study one saw a hydrating effect and stances and the more we increase our Other advantages of plant cell an improvement in skin elasticity. available technical know-how to culti- technology for obtaining specific in- Marrubium vulgare, the common vate plant-based meristematic cells gredients are clear: no special cultiva- horehound, is known for its detoxifying the greater will be the range of actives tion of the land, no annual variation in action. The Marrucell active protects that the cosmetics industry will have the composition of the plant material, the skin well against oxidative stress available. Additional information can be found on the Internet no use of plant foods or insecticides, factors which can form free radicals in (see Internet panel) reduction of extraction solvents, pro- the skin. tection of the general bio-diversity Compared with substances with an Stem cells: how it all began and enrichment of the required ingre- anti-oxidative action that are tradition- dient. It is an environmentally-friendly ally used it has a much stronger action. In 1981, as part of a medical research programme into and sustainable way to obtain highly At the same time it reinforces the skin’s stem cells embryonic stem cells were isolated for the first time from mouse blastocytes. 17 years later human effective cosmetic ingredients from own detoxification system and sup- embryonic stem cells were isolated. In Germany this trig- plants. ports the skin’s defence mechanism. gered some controversial discussion about the research The lilac, a common flower seen in and use of these stem cells. The legislation introduced Cosmetic efficacy many gardens, Syringa vulgaris L., was in 2002 to ensure the protection of the embryonic cells in The active substance Resistem ob- shown to be very effective in the treat- connection with the import and use of human embryonic tained from the alpine plant Globular- ment of acne. Using Sebuless several stem cells also makes their import a punishable offence. Exempted therefrom is the (from an ethical point of view) ia cordifolia, the ball shaped flower possible causes of acne can be com- uncritical research on adult stem cells offering very with heart-shaped leaves, is like a batted at once. The active ingredient promising therapeutic potential. bodyguard for the skin. The protective reduces both micro-organisms Propi- action on epidermal stem cells de- onibacterium acnes and Malassezia scribed above is one of many proven furfur. They cause inflammation which actions. Studies with keratinocytes, fi- further promotes the problem. The ac- Angela Kleiner broblasts and skin explants confirm tive also inhibits the production of the Marketing Manager that the active that promotes cell inflammation mediator IL-8. Further- Croda GmbH, Sederma GmbH Nettetal, Germany regeneration and wound healing has more it works on the enzyme 5-α-re- [email protected] a detoxifying effect on cells and im- ductase minimising sebum produc- www.croda.com

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FOCUS: ACTIVES INGREDIENTS

Endocrine disruptors: Are parabens, phthalates and other chemicals … … safe in cosmetics?

Some scientists have suggested that chemicals, including those used in cosmetics, may be disrupting human endocrine systems such as hormones secreted by the ovaries, testes, and thyroid. Human exposure to these sub- The result of the review conducted by stances may produce male infertility, international expert groups was that cancers and other adverse reproductive parabens used in cosmetics are safe effects. Dr. Gerhard Nohynek, ex-L’Oréal, however, questions the endocrine disrupt- ing activities of chemicals in cosmetics.

ubstances used in cosmetics Sproducts which have been false- ly branded as endocrine disrup- tors (ED) (see box) include solvents, such as diethyl phthalate, preser - vatives (parabens, triclosan), fra- grances (polycyclic musks) or UV filters (4-MBC). It is true that certain phthalates with a long side-chain length, such as diethylhexyl- or butyl phthalates have a tiny hormonal activity and may affect male fertility in rats. In contrast, di-

ethyl phthalate, which has been widely Shutterstock.com Kubais, photo: used as a vehicle in fragrances, is com- pletely devoid of hormonal activity. It has been shown to be non-toxic in a However, when these studies were re- mum concentrations of propyl- and large number of safety evaluations and peated on larger scale and under con- butylparabens were limited to 0.2%, has been rated to be safe for use in cos- ditions of GLP, no effect was found at presumably by applying the precau- metics by international expert groups, oral doses of up to 1,000 mg/kg/day. tionary principle. such as the EU’s SCCS or the US CIR. Consequently, international expert In addition, there is growing evi- However, the chemical classification groups, such as the US CIR, recently re- dence that parabens when used in ”phthalate” became the target of re- viewed the safety of parabens and de- products applied to the skin are hy- peated attacks by NGOs due to an al- cided that all parabens used in cos- drolysed (i.e. de-toxified) in the skin leged endocrine disrupting activity – in metics are safe. In the EU, the maxi- resulting in para-hydroxybenzoic acid, other words: ”risk assessment on the a substance that is ubiquitous in basis of chemical nomenclature”. plants and human food, and which oc- Long side-chain parabens, such as curs in human breast milk. Thus it is butylparaben or propylparaben, but Downloads highly probable that the human organ-

not methyl- or ethylparaben have been Additional information at ism is not exposed to parabens at all reported to show weak oestrogenic www.health-and-beauty.com/ when paraben-containing products are qr00117 activity and affect male fertility param- or you can just scan the QR code! applied to the skin, in other words: the Your access codes for May: eters in rats when administered sub - User name: cossma5 potential health risk is negligible or cutaneously or orally at high doses. Password: active absent. Finally, methylparaben is a sex

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pheromone of female canines, such as wolves or dogs, thus it appears to promote, rather than inhibit reproduction. What is important to note that in the definition of endocrine disruptors (see box), the term ”adverse effect” appears, meaning toxicity. In other words: only a substance that produces toxicity via a hormonal or hormone-like mechanism is an ED. There are many screening tests for potential EDs. However, these tests are de- signed only to prioritise substances that may be tested for ED activity. Given that such screening tests do not identify toxicity, they cannot identify EDs. In such screening tests, some sub- stances may produce minor changes in hormone-related parame- ters. This means that they display a small biological activity, but they are not EDs. Indeed, there are thousands of natural or syn- thetic substances that are positive in screening tests and possess minor hormone-like activities without causing toxicity. Our food for example is full of them. Such effects can be good, bad or neu- tral for the organism. To illustrate this: soy contains fairly power- ful oestrogenic substances that may produce adverse effects in reproductive toxicity studies. Thus, by definition, they are genuine “endocrine disruptors”. However, Asian populations with a high intake of soy or soy-based food tend to have lower rates of breast cancer or cancer of the reproductive organs when compared to those in Europe or the US, although breast cancer may be stimu- lated by oestrogens. Natural oestrogens or other hormone-like substances are contained in clover, hops, Brussels sprouts, wine, walnuts, linseed and many other plant foods. Given that soy phy- to-oestrogens have been shown to adversely affect reproduction in animals, they should be considered to be genuine “endocrine disruptors” – although there is no evidence that they pose a risk to human health. Ironically, pure soy oestrogens are marketed in health food stores with the claim that they relieve menopausal symptoms – although women in menopause are at greater risk of BASF BEAUTY CREATION 7 breast cancer which may be susceptible to hormonal stimulation . FOR A YOUNGER SKIN The question of potency The key question to be raised on the safety of substances with a hormone-like activity is their potency. Both cyanide and table salt can be toxic, but the toxicity of cyanide is far more potent than NEUROBIOX™ that of table salt. As an example, oestradiol, the mammalian Botanical active from yarrow. female sex hormone, or synthetic oestrogens contained in oral Rejuvenates skin by accelerating skin renewal, improves contraceptives, are extremely potent and active in microgram dos- es or at human plasma levels of ng/ml, whereas phthalates or the skin’s radiance, rebalances neuronal communication. parabens are 100,000 to 1,000,000 times less potent. These differ- ences in potency are far more dramatic than those between salt ULTRA FILLING SPHERES™ and cyanide. Butylparaben, although falsely branded to be an ”en- Microspheres of dehydrated hyaluronic acid and konjac docrine disruptor”, showed some minor estrogenic activity (but root glucomannan. not toxicity) only when given to rats subcutaneously at doses of about 600 mg/kg/day. This would correspond to a subcutaneous Immediate Fresh Kick by moisturizing and fi lling out dose of 36 grams in a human being in order to produce a minor minor wrinkles. activity. Butylparaben on the skin, or given orally, produced no oestrogenic effects. Taking this into account, it is toxicologically LINEFACTOR™ implausible how butylparaben, when included at 0.2% in a cream, Extract from hibiscus seeds. could pose a risk to human health. Overall, the oestrogenic poten- cy of the substances that may occur in cosmetics is so minute that Protects the skin’s natural fi broblast growth factor. a risk to human health may be excluded5. Stimulates collagen, GAG, aquaporin-3 and fi laggrin synthesis. Rejuvenates the skin. Hypothesis of the testicular dysgenesis syndrome The testicular dysgenesis syndrome (TDS) is an unproven hy- Distributed by IMPAG Import GmbH pothesis that in Western industrialized countries human sperm Fritz-Remy-Straße 25 count is declining, the incidence of human testicular cancer is in- Ī D-63071 Offenbach am Main IMPAG Group Country Offi ces Tel.: +49 (0) 69 850 008 - 0 Switzerland/Zurich – www.impag.ch Fax: +49 (0) 69 850 008 - 90 Germany/Off enbach – www.impag.de E-Mail: [email protected] France/Nancy – www.impag.fr Web: www.impag.de Poland/Warsaw – www.impag.pl COS1305_12_Lonza_GB_COS1305_12_Lonza_GB 22.04.13 08:49 Seite 14

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FOCUS: ACTIVES INGREDIENTS

Facts versus fiction The terms ”endocrine disruptor” or ”hormone-like substances” are stig- matic terms, which are meaningless in terms of human health risks. The discussion about whether synthetic chemicals with hormone-like activity may pose a risk to human health is par- adoxical: if such activities, however small, should actually pose a potential health risk, then it would make sense to worry about all substances that pos- sess such activities, particularly when they are present in human food. Given that a number of epidemiology studies suggest that naturally occurring EDs pose little or no risk to human health, it is inconceivable how synthetic sub- stances which are not eaten and have only a fraction of the activity of natural substances could be dangerous. Sec- ondly, chemical pollution of the envi- ronment and human food has continu- ously decreased since the 1970s. If chemicals really affected human fertil-

photo: Valentin Volkov, Shutterstock.com Volkov, Valentin photo: ity, we should see an improvement in There is growing evidence that parabens when these parameters, and not a decline. used in topical products, are de-toxified in the skin Generally, epidemiology studies at- tempt to determine the causes of dis- eases. But how can one determine the cause of a disease, when the existence of the disease itself is uncertain? creasing and that the incidence of dias; in addition these two pathologies Therefore, the European Molecular cryptorchidism (undescended testis) appear to be caused by different mech- Biology Organisation rightly entitled and hypospadias (abnormally placed anisms, which casts doubt on a com- the quest for chemical EDs as “A cause urethral opening) in new-born male mon origin or causal agent4. On the without a disease”6. babies is increasing. other hand, there has been an increase Overall, the endocrine disruptor It has been hypothesized that an in the incidence in testicular cancer in saga represents an aspect of a popular, increased incidence in the TDS may be some Western countries, whereas the but simplistic tendency to blame due to chemical ED in the human envi- incidence in other industrialized coun- chemicals for all kinds of diverse hu- ronment. tries and regions appears to be stable. man health problems – whether this However, there is no evidence for a Although the reason for this discrepan- makes scientific sense or not. Average general decline in sperm count: al- cy remains unknown, there is no evi- humans consume about 100 µg of though some studies found a decline, dence that chemical EDs are the cause. oestrogen-equivalents per day from others found an increase in sperm Overall, it is uncertain whether the TDS natural sources, whereas industrial count2. A current study, the largest, actually exists and even more uncer- chemicals in human food amount to longest and best controlled study ever tain that chemical EDs are associated about 2.5 µg oestrogen equivalents. done in this field, found no changes in with it4. Yet, all the environmentalists’ atten- the sperm count of more than 5,000 Danish military recruits over a period of 15 years3. It is typical for our times that this study has not been published What are endocrine disruptors? for years – whereas far smaller studies The endocrine system is the term for diverse hormonal systems in the mammalian organism, that claimed declining sperm counts such as thyroid hormones, hormones originating from the pancreas, ovaries, testes, have been published. Such a ”publica- adrenals or the brain. Out of the numerous definitions of an endocrine disruptor (ED) the most tion bias” distorts the public percep- commonly agreed one is the following: ”An endocrine disruptor is an exogenous substance tion and may produce imaginary that causes adverse health effects in the intact organism or its progeny, secondary/conse- health risks. quent to changes in endocrine function” (Weybridge, 1996). A similar definition has been chosen by a UK-BfR (Germany) Expert Group in May 2011: An ED is an exogenous sub- Moreover, there is no scientific evi- stance or mixture that alters function(s) of the endocrine system and consequently causes dence for a general increase in the inci- adverse health effects in an intact organism, or its progeny or (sub) populations1. dence of cryptorchidism or hypospa-

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tion has been focused on that small number. To put these figures into perspective: a single earlier type of birth control pill contains about 17,000 µg of oestrogen equivalents, reflecting the dramati- cally greater potency of a genuine hormone. The contraceptive pill represents a genuine ED, since it affects human reproductive physiology. Oestradiols (natural or synthetic), may be toxic to re- production at higher doses. Another known endocrine disruptor affecting human fecundity, semen quality and the levels of male reproductive hormones is obesity8. The growing incidence of obesity in the population of industrialised countries may possibly explain the decline in human semen quality reported by some studies. Yet obesity is rarely discussed in the context of endocrine disruption. Today a popular belief is that in every human health problem synthetic chemicals must play a key role. As this belief does not tend to be based on scientific evidence this attitude really does seem somewhat naïve, doesn’t it? The reference list can be found on the Internet – see Internet panel

Dr. Gerhard Nohynek formerly Worldwide Safety Evaluation L’Oréal www.loreal.com

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FOCUS: ACTIVES INGREDIENTS

Trend-setting actives in view

In an interview with COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss, Andrea Weber, head of R&D at Babor, explains which actives are characterising today’s market.

to prevent fat cells from maturing. In a tions. This is a real advantage from the new fluid a neuro-receptor peptide sustainability point of view. acts on the cells own receptors and so Like the way that peptides can be improves the skin’s thickness and synthesised for a specific task, and the structure. We have measured and seen acquisition of plant-based metabolites that in this way the depth of wrinkles from plant cell cultures can be can be reduced by up to 58 percent. achieved, we now have the possibility Why are these actives immediately so to acquire new actives with the help of popular? “blue biotechnology”. Using this The big advantage of this peptide method algae and marine plants are is that it can be used very specifically used in a reactor to synthesise specific

photo: Willyam Bradberry, Shutterstock.com Bradberry, Willyam photo: and can address different metabolic actives. In the next few years it is al- Several interesting new actives are to be expected from processes. most certain that several products with ”blue biotechnology” which is the acquisition of new Are stem cells still a trend-setting such interesting peptides will be com- substances from marine plant life subject? ing onto the market. Stem cells are still setting a trend [email protected] www.babor.de (see also page 10 ff). In new studies we Which actives are, in your view, setting a always find new possible applications. particular trend? The subject still has huge potential. Peptides synthesised for a Andrea Weber, Head of When it comes to choosing the right specific functionality can the R&D centre at Babor: path to follow one can acquire some prevent, for instance, fat At the moment there is very specific ingredients which allow cells from maturing and not any really big trend the achievement of ever more impres- visibly reduce wrinkles like we saw recently with sive results. Also the subject of sus- glycation. Today we talk about several tainability has a significant part to play different subjects and possibilities in in the use of stem cells. They can be to- photos: Babor photos: the field of actives. At the moment we tally generated in the laboratory which are working a lot with peptides, which not only ensures a constant quality but can be synthesised for a specific func- also protects nature’s rich plant king- tionality. In a new anti-cellulite prod- dom and reduces transport costs for uct a hexapeptide, for example, helps plants brought in from exotic loca- COS1305_Clariant.qxp_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 19.04.13 09:38 Seite 1

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Uncover the SECRET CODE OF BEAUTY

TRUE BEAUTY IS REVEALED THROUGH 5 UNIQUE CODES. CLARIANT PERSONAL CARE FINDS THE PERFECT COMBINATION FOR YOU. Creative innovation power. Outstanding expertise. Deep consumer and trend insights. Sustainability focus. Passion for sensorial solutions. These codes empower us to offer you just the right ingredients to meet your hair and skin care needs. Join us on this journey of discovery and learn more about the latest developments at Clariant Personal Care.

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cosmagazine

1.13Vol. ZEITGEIST REVEALED Capturing the spirit of our times MILK OR CHOCOLATE? Tanning and lightening solutions to reveal healthy, radiant skin FIERY, FEMININE, FABULOUS The fi re of Venus: Ronastar® Copper Jewel THE IN-BE-TEEN YEARS Feeling comfortable in teenage skin

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02 / What’s Inside [email protected]

Our vision of the future

Capturing the spirit of our times

All-new formulations ideal for sun care There’s no second chance to make a first impression

ZEITGEIST REVEALED

LASTING SKIN CARE: THE TIME PROJECTION KIT 03

04 SPECIAL REPORT:

COSMETICS ON AN EMOTIONALTrend forecasts LEVEL highlight new looks and active ingredients 05 The fire of Venus: Ronastar® Copper Jewel

06 MORE FUN IN THE SUN: THE HAPPY SUNSHINE KIT

07 UPCOMING TRENDS The colors and trends for spring.summer 2014

Tanning and lightening solutions to reveal healthy, radiant skin 07 FIERY, FEMININE, FABULOUS

Feeling comfortable in teenage skin 08 COLOR FORECAST New studies highlight RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 and RonaCare® Isoquercetin 10 A study with a sense for what consumers want MILK OR CHOCOLATE? 11 Preserving skin care products with Oxynex® ST Liquid THE IN-BE-TEEN YEARS 12 FEEL THE DIFFERENCE Workshops that help you get the most out of our know-how 12 A WIN-WIN INGREDIENT 13 THE SCIENCE BEHIND YOUNGER-LOOKINGMerck staff contributes to SKIN well-known publications 14 Regulations affecting the cosmetics industry MERCK SHARES ITS PASSION 16 NEW PUBLICATIONS 16

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www.merck4cosmetics.com A New Kit As Time Marches On / 03

OUR VISION OF THE FUTURE LASTING SKIN CARE: THE “TIME PROJECTION” KIT

When it comes to fabulous skin, time is of the essence. And there’s no time like the present to ensure the future is bright for a perfect complexion. That’s why Merck has created the “Time Projection” kit. It contains formulations packed with powerful active ingredients designed to keep skin looking good for the long term. With this new and innovative kit, we present five unique formulations to achieve timeless skin care:

Speed Up Signaling (MDA-A-113-04) A formulation packed with cell-communicating ingredients, this unique product slows down the ageing process while offering advanced, broad spectrum UV protection. With RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 and RonaCare® Luremin, it supports the elastic network of the dermis and provides powerful anti-wrinkle properties – without irritating the skin. Eusolex® UV-PearlsTM OB-S make it a photostable sunscreen com- position for optimum protection against the elements.

Colorful Science (MDA-A-153-01) This beautifying foundation is the future of lightweight make-up solutions. Through a well-balanced combi- nation of pigments from the Colorona® line and the slightly tinted Eusolex® T-PRO UV filter, this BB cream formulation provides unbeatable coverage and luminosity without a heavy make-up look. The formulation is rounded off with RonaCare® AP and RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 to protect the skin from premature ageing and improve dermal elasticity.

Concept of Eye Illumination (MDA-A-124-03) An ideal solution for eliminating dark circles, this advanced formulation contains three powerful ingredients: RonaCare® Ectoin, RonaCare® Troxerutin, and RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5. Together, these active ingredients restore moisture, support the skin’s cellular defense system and counteract the effects of premature ageing. There is no better way to protect the sensitive eye area against external stresses and enhance blood microcir- culation around the eye for ultimate illumination.

Redesign Your Silhouette (MDA-A-129-07) The body’s silhouette is strongly shaped by moisture levels and the “recoil” capacity of the skin. Three impressive active ingredients combine to help redefine contours in this state-of-the-art formulation. RonaCare® Ectoin, RonaCare® Nicotinamide (vitamin B3), and RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 work in several ways to enhance form and definition. This formulation is the best solution for optimum moisture, cell protection, a reduction in trans-epidermal water loss, stimulated collagen synthesis and improved skin elasticity.

Erase Imperfection (MDA-A-128-05) Teens aren’t alone in their quest for clear skin. Many adults face the problems associated with sensitive skin such as acne and rosacea. The Erase Imperfection formulation relies on RonaCare® AP to reduce oiliness and balance redness. Together with RonaCare® Salicylic Acid and RonaCare® Ectoin, it presents the best solution to problem skin, protecting it from external stresses, moisture loss, excess sebum production and premature ageing. Timiron® Silk Green has been added to the mix to even out redness and provide a natural, healthy look for a fresh skin complexion. COS1305_EH_Merck_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.13 13:15 Seite 4

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04 / Special Report: Zeitgeist Revealed [email protected]

CAPTURING THE SPIRIT OF OUR TIMES ZEI TGE “YOUR SPIRIT OF THE TIMES IS, THEN, AT BOTTOM, YOUR OWN SPIRIT, GENTLEMEN, IN WHICH THE TIMES ARE SEEN REFLECTED.“ (Faust, A Tragedy, Part 1, translation by Charles T. Brooks) IST

As our modern world becomes more and more integrated, mobile and global, the industry is adapting with innovative products and services. But no matter where the winds of time may blow, one standard will persevere: quality in cosmetic formulations. This issue will feature inspiration for creating products with timeless quality that, at the same time, embody the spirit of the present. COS1305_EH_Merck_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.13 13:15 Seite 5

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www.merck4cosmetics.com Special Report: First Impressions / 05

THERE’S NO SECOND CHANCE TO MAKE A FIRST IMPRESSION COSMETICS ON AN EMOTIONAL LEVEL

With most things in life, first impressions are Merck provides the raw materials necessary to best everything. This holds especially true in the world position cosmetics products given these circum- of cosmetics. In a market overflowing with innova- stances. A broad range of special effect pigments tive new products and abounding with choice, based on 7 different substrates is perfect for lending there’s no room for second chances if you want to products the emotional layer that motivates consum- stay competitive. According to experts, a product ers to buy. With the help of these pigments, formu- must appeal to the senses of sight, touch and lators can achieve countless “looks and feels” and smell in order to evoke the emotions that inspire create variety to appeal to different consumer consumers to buy. Thanks to Merck’s diverse groups. It’s about getting the most from the special range of cosmetic pigments, you can create appearance of effect pigments – and stirring up eye-catching colors, luxury texture and cutting- emotions. edge effects that are sure to make an impact.

Research in neuromarketing reveals that emotions drive buying behavior. If a product can inspire consumers to feel something positive, if it can tap into their senses on an intuitive level, then it can generate unparalleled brand loyalty. Emotional E response to the look and feel of a product strongly WANT TO REACH YOUR CUSTOMERS ON AN determines its perceived value. A striking color EMOTIONAL LEVEL? combined with the right effects can create a lasting Take advantage of Merck’s service package, which visual impression. Effect pigments, if used properly, includes formulation support and color expertise can make products look high in quality – even in less during product development. expensive formulations. A product’s texture also Merck also has an application technology center plays an important role in the consumer’s instinctive and offers in-house workshops to share its selection process. knowledge and know-how.

Of course, factors such as age, background, gender, season, and income play into buyer decisions as well. Teenagers will have different wants and needs than older consumers. The desired looks in Asia differ from those in Europe. And the winds of change constantly set sails for new innovation, inspiring trends that reset cosmetics standards. How can cosmetics formulators accommodate the demands of such a diverse set of consumers and rapidly evolving market? HELLO?! COS1305_EH_Merck_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.13 13:15 Seite 6

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06 / New Kit: Happy Sunshine [email protected]

ALL-NEW FORMULATIONS IDEAL FOR SUN CARE MORE FUN IN THE SUN: THE “HAPPY SUNSHINE” KIT

NO MATTER WHERE WE GO, WE ARE EXPOSED TO SUNLIGHT ALL THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. AND JUST AS THE SUN FUELS SO MANY PLANTS AND ANIMALS, IT ALSO PROVIDES OUR HUMAN BODIES WITH A NUMBER OF BENEFITS. IT STIMULATES OUR IMMUNE SYSTEM, AND INCREASES BLOOD FLOW AND METABOLIC ACTIVITY TO KEEP US HEALTHY. WE ALSO GET ESSENTIAL VITAMIN D FROM THE SUN, WHICH MAKES US GENERALLY HAPPIER AND MORE RELAXED. BUT SUNLIGHT CAN BE HARMFUL IF WE DON’T TAKE THE RIGHT PRECAUTIONS. IT’S TIME PEOPLE ENJOY THE POSITIVE BENEFITS OF THE SUN WITHOUT WORRYING ABOUT THE NEGATIVE EFFECTS. HOW? WITH THE RIGHT SKIN CARE, OF COURSE.

Men, women and children generally have different wants and needs when it comes to sun protection. Children tend to lose track of time when they’re out in the sun. Men want convenient products that are quick and easy to apply. And women invest a lot of time in getting the perfect tan. Whatever the situation, Merck can consult on formulations that hit the spot – all contained in the newly developed “Happy Sunshine” kit:

SAFE SUN CARE: Ideal for children and people with sensitive skin. It includes non-penetrating Eusolex® UV filters – those that don’t let free radicals come into direct contact with the skin – and has moisturizing effects to reduce irrita- tion caused by exposure to sun. It’s great as an organic sunscreen with SPF 30 protection.

UNIVERSAL SUN DEFENSE: A liquid sunscreen with a high protection factor (SPF 50) and very light skin feel. Although it is the one-size- fits-all solution in this sun care collection, this formulation is particularly attractive for women interested in perfect radical protection and products with anti-ageing properties.

SPRAYABLE SUN DELIGHT: A light, non-greasy spray texture popular among men with an SPF higher than 30. With mineral UV-TITAN and organic filters for both oil and water phase emulsions, this formulation offers more than adequate cell and UV protection.

CAREFREE SUN PLEASURE: All-round protection against any level of sun exposure, not just for UVA/UVB but also infrared light. Designed as a spray lotion with a protection factor higher than 50, this formulation is the perfect combination of organic, inorganic and encapsulated Eusolex® filters.

So whether your customers are hitting the slopes or hitting the beach, the Happy Sunshine Kit offers ideal protection. For healthier skin. For more fun in the sun.

Interested? Please contact us at [email protected] COS1305_EH_Merck_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.13 13:16 Seite 7

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www.merck4cosmetics.com Trend Forecast/Ronastar® Copper Jewel / 07

TREND FORECASTS HIGHLIGHT NEW LOOKS AND ACTIVE INGREDIENTS UPCOMING TRENDS

Merck introduced its first Trend Forecast for active ingredients at the Sepawa Congress in 2013. We will continue following the cosmetics Zeitgeist with our second skin care edition, just in time for in-cosmetics in 2014. Better yet, you can count on our trend expertise every year from now on.

The trend forecast will give cosmetics formulators a sneak peak on upcoming trends as well as point out active ingredients from the Merck portfolio that can be used to create top-selling products à la mode. Using a range of imagined product concepts, labeling designs, targeted slogans and associated wording, the forecast will also illustrate the potential in these trends to help you capture that essence on the market in a way that resonates with consumers.

How does it work? Professional agencies like Carlin and Peclers will observe a range of areas to pinpoint the latest trends. From long-term movements in innovation, politics and demographics to seasonal trends in art, film, music and design, there is a wealth of inspiration waiting to be discovered and worked into cosmetics formulations.

THE FIRE OF VENUS: RONASTAR® COPPER JEWEL FIERY, FEMININE, FABULOUS

Harness the warm, elegant properties of copper in an all-new way. With Ronastar® Copper Jewel, we’ve created an effect pigment that brings out the full beauty of this orange-brown hue. No longer a specialty for the likes of Aphrodite and Venus, the bold color achieved by this cosmetic pigment allows everyone to indulge in pure luxury. The pigment’s versatility makes it ideal for use in a wide range of products. In decorative cosmetics, it creates eye-catching sparkling effects and offers great covering power.

Like its companion, Ronastar® Golden Jewel, this coppery pigment produces a fantastic chromatic effect. The lustrous beauty of Ronastar® Copper Jewel lies in its composition: Large, flat platelets lend the pigment its unique glow. As a result, its soft, warm quality and elegant shimmer can add subtle highlights to any look. Used on its own, it produces maximum copper effects that are marked by a beautiful iridescence and intense color. COS1305_EH_Merck_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.13 13:16 Seite 8

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INTERSECTIONS

The merging of multiplicity, mastered in this eclectic mix of cross-cultural references plus a transition through time. Edgy beauty plays with tribal inspira- tion, a palette of deep reds underscored by white, black, or both. With tones ranging from ebony to ivory, from luscious leather to rustic linen, the eyes can be smoky and enhanced with smudged mascara. Brows or parted hair can be intensified, with nails showing off fancy ornamental motifs and lips either decked in intense two-tone effects, or pale and plain.

The spring.summer 2014 color forecast rings in the refreshing revival of creative energy. As the new worldwide wave of reinvention breaks free, it will inspire richer and more innovative styles, a flood of flourishing, fanciful effects, paralleled by the more discreet and refined. While some return to a world of wonder by reinterpreting former beauty ideals, others will explore newfound creativity reflected in drama and luxury. Alternatively, cultural references will interplay in time and location. Others, still, will allow the imagination to wander off the beaten path and explore the exotic. New vigor will re-emerge in spring.summer 2014, which we explore in association with Peclers Paris.

PSYCHE

The globetrotter revels in fantasy and spiritual odyssey, an exotic approach to island beauty styles. A rich, deep flood of intense metallic colors is splashed hedonistically across the eyes, lips and cheeks. The multicolored palette flourishes in fresh, energetic tones. Menthol green emphasizes the eyes with fuchsia pink on the lips and a fantasy of tie-dyed colors on the hair. The glam jet-setter attitude is underscored by wet look hairstyles. COS1305_EH_Merck_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.13 13:17 Seite 9

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www.merck4cosmetics.com Color Forecast / 09 SUBLIMED

Where are you now, couture heritage of the 1950s? The sophisticated ideals, so soft yet striking, are unveiled in powdery pastels based on a perfect complexion of smooth, sumptuous porcelain. The shadows and cool tones on the eyes warm to a fanci- ful flush of terracota or coral cheeks. The luscious lips indulge in tints or nudity, even reveries of glossy textures. The nails draw inspiration on patterns of pastry.

SPRING.SUMMER 2014 COLOR FORECAST

EXPLOSIVE

Urban sophistication bursts forth with energy and striking effects, a bronze and khaki palette, accentu- ated with a glow of terracota and cheeks that call out to explore and play with both light and shade. In a flash of theatrical inspiration, the features are sculpted for more dazzling definition, with bold smoky eyes, offset or tempered with bleached brows. As the lips entice in sheer iridescence, nail polish makes for a striking debut with novel, monochro- matic khakhi tones. COS1305_EH_Merck_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.13 13:17 Seite 10

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10 / Milk or Chocolate [email protected]

TANNING AND LIGHTENING SOLUTIONS TO REVEAL HEALTHY, RADIANT SKIN MILK OR CHOCOLATE?

Everyone wants beautiful skin. Though people may disagree on how to define perfection, there’s no doubt it should be firm, clear and even in tone. While someone with a darker base color might want to use lightening products, there is sure to be a fair-skinned counterpart hoping to achieve that perfect, healthy tan. Now everyone can get what they’re looking for with the “Milk or Chocolate” kit for spring.

The most important factor in a perfect complexion is balance. Regardless of whether someone prefers a darker or a lighter skin tone, it’s important that all areas of the skin match. In some regions, this is especially important in the springtime, when pleasant weather lets us cast off the shackles of heavy winter wear. Who doesn’t want to make their best impression in more revealing clothing?

Merck’s “Milk or Chocolate” kit can be formulated to address demand for either tanning or lightening while tackling the common problems of any skin type: oily, acne-prone or sensitive. In colder regions, it’s perfectly formulated to combat the dry dullness caused by harsh winter conditions. Other active ingredients work against skin irritations or dark spots caused by environmental factors.

This innovative kit can support stressed skin through effective cleansing and complexion enhancement. And it isn’t only useful in regenerating winter-damaged skin – it’s also a great way to prepare skin for more exposure to the elements. Formulation examples contain UV protection, moisturizers, anti-inflammatory agents and anti-acne ingredients. The kit could include:

• An all-over peeling to prepare the skin on a large scale

• Two multipurpose products for either tanning and whitening

• A tanning product for beautiful legs

That’s four products with advanced formulations to achieve beautiful, healthy-looking skin.

So if you are looking to add new innovations to your product line, look no further than the “Milk or Chocolate” kit from Merck. Our sample formulations offer fantastic solutions for companies who want to help customers address problem skin while achieving a perfect look for any trend. COS1305_EH_Merck_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.13 13:17 Seite 11

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www.merck4cosmetics.com The In-Be-Teen Years / 11

FEELING COMFORTABLE IN TEENAGE SKIN THE IN-BE-TEEN YEARS

Teenagers want to feel comfortable in their own skin. What’s more, they want to look good and play with colors and effects. A wide range of RonaCare® and RonaFlair® products can help teens cover up and correct problem areas without the look of heavy makeup. The idea: cleansing, caring for and high- lighting natural, youthful beauty.

The RonaCare® line is ideal for daily skin cleansers or astringents that prevent breakouts. Used in combina- tion with RonaFlair® functional fillers, these products can absorb excess oil and balance out the complexion to leave the skin looking fresh and young. Cosmetic pigments can be used in beauty products such as nourishing lip care to add the dash of color and sparkle that gives girls a subtle feminine touch. For the boys, care products that concentrate on healthy, clear skin are the way to go.

Using ingredients in this way – to add substance to products by making them appealing and comfortable for young people to wear – is the best way to captivate young consumers. Here too, ingredient combinations can be formulated to fall in line with trends while meeting the unique needs of today’s youth. COS1305_EH_Merck_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.13 13:17 Seite 12

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12 / Feel the Difference/Oxynex® ST LIQUID [email protected]

A STUDY WITH A SENSE FOR WHAT CONSUMERS WANT PRESERVING SKINCARE PRODUCTS WITH OXYNEX® ST LIQUID FEEL THE DIFFERENCE A WIN-WIN INGREDIENT

A cosmetic product that feels good to the touch can Customers want cosmetics products that smell and look fresh – from the moment make you feel good too. But from person to person, they see them on the shelf, and each time they use them at home after that. If this sensation might not be the same. cosmetics don’t look their best in the store, they won’t get sold. Likewise, a product that loses its potency too quickly won’t be a user’s first pick the second time around. Fillers can add texture to cosmetics, creating a variety of skin feels to cater to different consumer With Oxynex® ST Liquid, formulators are given the key to preserving product quality. tastes. A new sensory study took a look at customer Oxynex® ST Liquid is a substance that stabilizes color and smell due to its anti- reception of certain fillers to help pinpoint their oxidant properties. Its benefits are twofold: The active component in Oxynex® ST effects in cosmetics formulations. Liquid quenches free radicals responsible for destroying colorants or altering fragrance, while simultaneously photostabilizing light-sensitive ingredients. More Merck asked participants to define skin feel in a and more formulators are using Oxynex® ST Liquid to offer consumers premium number of cosmetic fillers. Later, products were quality that lasts: classified according to these characteristics and entered into a database. Formulators can now use “We have been using Oxynex® ST Liquid in our products since 2006, and have had this table to find a suitable filler for the desired feel. a lot of success with it. In our experience, Oxynex® ST Liquid is a very effective raw material for the protection of product quality. It Looking for a filler that lends facial products a prevents fading or discoloration of fillers, and “creamy” feeling? RonaFlair® Boroneige® SF6 is the preserves any light-sensitive substances right choice. Do your customers want something within the formulation. The product with a powdery, mattifying effect to absorb oil and will help us continue promising our even out skin tone? RonaFlair® Softshade will do the customers reliable and visually trick. If you search for a filler with a rolling effect, appealing products.” the table will point you to RonaFlair® Soft Sphere.

It’s easy, it’s practical, and it’s based on feedback straight from your own customer base. Dr. Harald Albrecht Director of Research & Development, Weckerle Cosmetics (Eislingen, Germany)

Interested in enhancing your formulations with this brilliant tool? Contact us as [email protected] or order your filler brochure now! COS1305_EH_Merck_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.13 13:18 Seite 13

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www.merck4cosmetics.com This Just In: New Studies / 13

NEW STUDIES HIGHLIGHT RONACARE® CYCLOPEPTIDE-5 AND RONACARE® ISOQUERCETIN THE SCIENCE BEHIND YOUNGER- LOOKING SKIN

Two new studies have not only confirmed the efficacy of RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 and RonaCare® Isoquercetin, but also revealed more details on how these active ingredients work their magic. Of course, it’s not actually magic, just science – something Merck knows all too well.

RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 and RonaCare® Isoquercetin are two miracle substances attractive for anti-ageing products. New ex-vivo studies now shed even more light on their positive effects on the skin.

RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 is, as its name shows, a cyclic peptide that allows for better binding to certain skin receptors, namely integrins. Previous studies have shown that RonaCare Cyclopeptide-5 regulates the extra-cellular matrix proteins at the gene level and, in doing so, stimulates a slowing of the ageing process through mimicking signaling pathways. New ex-vivo tests reveal that RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 stimulates the elastic fiber network in the dermis, the skin layer responsible for the “rebound effect” that lends the skin firmness and resiliency. With RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5, this recoil capacity of the skin could be increased by 35 % within 10 days.

RonaCare® Isoquercetin is a bioflavonoid with anti-oxidant and anti-ageing properties. According to in-vitro studies, RonaCare® Isoquercetin acts to reduce the glycation of protein and the consequent build-up of AGEs, which contribute to lower skin elasticity and accelerate the appearance of wrinkles. This anti-glycation aspect is especially interesting for people with diabetes and associated skin complications. Recent ex-vivo testing confirmed the anti-glycation potential of RonaCare® Isoquercetin on skin explants: Application of the substance in combination with the glycation-inducing agent methyl glyoxal offers a protection factor 64 % higher than that of the placebo formulation. These studies provide impressive proof regarding the active power of both of these products. For more details on the science behind the solution to younger-looking skin, contact us via: [email protected] COS1305_EH_Merck_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.13 13:18 Seite 14

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14 / Workshops [email protected]

WORKSHOPS THAT HELP YOU GET THE MOST OUT OF OUR KNOW-HOW MERCK SHARES ITS PASSION COS1305_EH_Merck_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.13 13:18 Seite 15

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www.merck4cosmetics.com Workshops / 15

Merck offers seminars for cosmetics experts on a wide range of topics like active ingredients and cosmetic pigments, dermocosmetics, functional fillers, insect repellents, nanomaterials and much more. These workshops allow participants to further their own expertise as well as learn about practical applications for various types of products.

DERMOCOSMETICS WORKSHOP

Merck hosted a dermocosmetics workshop on February 18 –19, 2013 in Darmstadt, Germany. The workshop featured a forum of international speakers and experts from the fields of pharmacy, chemistry and cosmetics. 70 visitors from 9 countries participated in this great event. Dermocosmetics addresses problems with sensitive skin, such as acne, psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis, and much more. The workshop focused in particular on the potential for non-medical treatment of these conditions using cosmetics, from a dermatological and pharmaceutical perspective. Regulatory aspects, scientific news and innovative formulation ideas were also topics of interest. COS1305_EH_Merck_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.13 13:19 Seite 16

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MERCK STAFF CONTRIBUTES TO WELL-KNOWN REGULATIONS AFFECTING THE COSMETICS PUBLICATIONS INDUSTRY cos NEW REGULATORY PUBLICATIONS AFFAIRS magazine

Merck is invested in advancing the science behind In 2009, the EU Commission defined “nanomaterial” cosmetics. A number of our own scholars and for the cosmetics industry under Cosmetics researchers have recently been published in leading Regulation (EU) No. 1223/2009. A more general scientific journals that further the Zeitgeist of the definition for “nanomaterial” was published again, cosmetics industry. Take a look – it’s history in the in an EU Commission Recommendation in 2011. PUBLISHED BY making! Merck KGaA In 2013, the Commission is checking how to revise Performance Materials BB creams: the definition for the cosmetics industry based on Pigments & Cosmetics “From BB to CC Creams – Innovative Formulation of the EU Recommendation document. This may affect Frankfurter Strasse 250 Multitasking Care” in the September 2012 edition a great number of cosmetic raw materials and 64293 Darmstadt of the SOFW Journal cosmetic formulations. Even a threshold based on a Germany particle number/size distribution is being discussed, Online publication: which could turn a cosmetic ingredient into a Phone: +49 6151 72-6899 RonaCare® AP – its role in acne prevention nanomaterial although it was not produced as such. Fax: +49 6151 72-916899 “Sebusuppressive efficacy of the antioxidant As a consequence, these substances must be then [email protected] bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate labeled as “nano” on the ingredients list. in the treatment of oily and blemished skin” EDITING & LAYOUT available online at: http://www.dovepress.com/ As a result of a definition change, the number of RTS Rieger Team, sebusuppressive-efficacy-of-the-antioxidant-bis- insoluble powders that will be classified as “nano- www.rts-riegerteam.de ethylhexyl-hydroxydime-peer-reviewed-article-CCID materials” would increase and a new approach to marketing these products might become necessary. DISCLAIMER Sun care: Merck provides information “Sunglasses for the Skin” in Arte y Ciencia Cosmé- At the moment, there is no evidence that nanoma- on application technologies and tica (August 2012) terials in cosmetic products are dangerous. Still, relevant regulations based upon cosmetics companies are cautious about them, and our current knowledge and might not be happy that some of their products will opinion at the time of printing. soon be classified this way. Merck makes no representation or warranty of any kind, express Merck can help keep you informed and sort out the or implied, including merchant- confusion about regulations, labeling and other ability or fi tness for a particular factors that could affect products. use, with respect to such information or its application. Purchasers must independently determine the suitability of our ingredients for the purchaser’s intended product, use or process. Purchasers are responsible for observing all laws and regulations relevant to such products, uses or processes. The foregoing information and suggestions are also provided without warranty of non- infringement as to the intellectual property rights of third parties, and shall not be construed as any induce- ment to infringe the rights of www.merck4cosmetics.com third parties. COS1305_19_Mintel_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.04.1308:50Seite19 F acid, rumex occidentalis and ginkgo flavonoids. ogy featuringthreeanti-hyperpigmentationactives:patenteddioic tation. Theproductisformulatedwithlighteningtone-downtechnol- action fluidcreamdesignedtotargetmultipleformsofhyperpigmen- tains vitamin E and L-glutathione. concept toensurethateverydropoftheserumisfresh.Italsocon- brand the art of environmentally-friendly manufacturing. The companyisclaimedtohavesetanew, eco-certifiedstandardin gredient concentrate to regenerate the skin with essential nutrients. extract, shea butter, beeswax, cucumber, aloe and purslane. launches International with with innovative active ingredients. Care Insight at Mintel, presents a selection of products This month Vivienne Rudd, head of Beauty and Personal Additional information can be found onthe Internet –see Internet box la Bio Clinic is awater-based vitaminCserumwitharechargeable As partofthe The Inspired from known cosmetic surgery techniques, the tains walnutoil,squalaneandceramideIII,milkextract,snail ed 3D mask sheet with moisture-releasing capacities. It con- ace Q Milk Moisturizing Foot Mask Prevent CE-Thione Rechargeable Vitamin C Antioxidant Formu-Antioxidant C PreventCE-ThioneVitamin Rechargeable Ampoules range includes Medik8 from mentation of hyperpig- multiple forms cream to target ble-action fluid Oriflame’s sheet leasing mask moisture-re- patented 3D mask with Face Q’s Dr. Grandel’s Nutri Sensation Active Defense Day Shield SPF 45 range knownasthe”GreenCosmeceutical” dou- foot at Additional informationcanbefound or youcanjustscantheQRcode! qr00118 Password: User name: Your accesscodesforMay: www.health-and-beauty.com Head of Beauty and Personal active regenerate the skin essential nutrients to against free-radicals vitamin C serum to protect Dr. Grandel’s Medik8’s cossma5 is madewithaKoreanpatent- Care Insight, Mintel, Downloads Downloads www.mintel.com Vivienne Vivienne Rudd London, UK water-based ampoules with have anactivein- , adouble- Oriflame

photos: Mintel • • • • • • • •

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MARKETING INGREDIENTS

The statement by the SCCS The key points summarised

Dr. Rainer Wohlfart from the Kneipp company and the perfumer Erich Schmidt explain, in an interview with Angelika Meiss, how they see the impact of the SCCS stance and planned course of action on the subject of fragrance allergies.

At what rate of occurrence are allergies a relevant risk to the general popula- The fact that bath products should be formu- tion? lated in concentrations such that even sensi- Schmidt: Because there is never a tised consumers find then acceptable is to be “no risk” situation, it is necessary to de- the subject of an industry-independent study fine the frequency of cases of allergies photo: Yuri Arcurs,Shutterstock.com Yuri photo: which may be rather regrettable or equally unforeseeable as a rare risk of What steps are planned according to actually used. They are based less on a some individuals. Nature is full of po- the SCCS statement on fragrance aller- hazard risk and more on an evaluation tentially sensitising substances, and gies? of possible problems. There is hardly this is not a problem restricted to cos- Dr. Rainer Wohlfart, any consideration of the exposure metics. In the area of foodstuffs no- head of R&D at Kneipp, level. body has yet suggested a ban on Würzburg, Germany: In Wohlfart: At Kneipp we have fol- peanuts. Food allergies have potential- perfumery there has to be lowed very strict safety regulations de- ly a much higher risk and perhaps with a limited concentration of veloped over decades. Reactions due a fatal outcome. indispensable fragrances which dra- to product intolerance are very rare. If According to the statistics of the matically alter almost all the perfume we ever have such information we work IVDK 0.8 to 1.9 % of the population are oils used in cosmetics. It is also hard to pinpoint the cause and are al- sensitive to one or more fragrances. In planned to totally forbid some fra- ways prepared to pay for dermatologi- almost all cases it is unknown how this grances and to increase the list of cal consultations. In recent years we sensitisation was acquired. In most declarable allergens from 26 to 127. have not had a single instance of this cases no sensitisation threshold was And what is the current situation in this type where there has been scientifical- measured to acquire information regard? ly proven causal relationship with our about the potential of the substance. It Wohlfart: The draft statement was, product. is also mostly unclear whether a medi- despite numerous scientifically based Basically one does of course wel- cine had been taken at the same time and well-founded objections, pub- come the situation where, in the inter- or whether it was an instance of poly- lished in the summer of 2012 almost est of preventive consumer protection, sensitisation. If a person has a reaction unchanged, and set before the EU allergenic risks that could be traced it is not necessarily specifically attrib- Commission. Now it is a matter for the back to fragrances are constantly mon- utable to the perfume oil in a cosmetic politicians. itored and evaluated. preparation. The sensitisation could Are these steps justifiable in your view? In terms of this particular aspect the have been triggered in the person at a Erich Schmidt, per- SCCS statement is a collection of data different location but it is via the fra- fumer, Nördlingen, Ger- such as has never previously existed. It grance that the allergy gets activated. many: I tend to think not. is now a question of correctly evaluat- To know more about the mecha- The data used are mainly ing this data and of establishing legal nism of sensitisation a lot more basic of a qualitative nature, requirements based on such an evalu- research needs to be carried out. There which means that they don’t take into ation. That is the job of the European is a need for research, but hasty legal account the concentration level that is Commission and the parliament. measures would be counterproductive.

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INGREDIENTS MARKETING

In the Spiegel Online of April 2nd 2013 good as zero. Despite this the SCCS Prof. Schnuch of the IVDK describes insists on including it in the list of “the risk to the population from aller- 26 allergens which will now have to be gens in cosmetics as relatively low”. He declared when used at a concentration continues: “Of 100 percent of the pop- level above a fixed figure. ulation who use cosmetics of all kinds What benefit does all this offer to the about 0.1 percent annually acquire an consumer? allergy due to the ingredients”. Schmidt: The labelling of the 26 so- Wohlfart: Fragrances are present in called allergens is already overburden- all aspects of our lives, and in particu- ing the consumers and dermatologists.

lar in nature. Even if we wanted to we Now fragrances are to be introduced, Martapaniti, photo: Shutterstock.com cannot banish them from the world. which are known even to many special- According to a correct assessment suit- able legislative measures must be taken The majority of consumers have no ists only under their trade names but based on the mass of data collected problem with fragrances. On the con- which now, according to goods la- trary, for most people fragrances enrich belling regulations, must be described their lives and represent a good quali- only by their complex IUPAC names. Whole families of fragrances would ty of life. But this is not only true for That can surely not contribute to con- disappear and the fragrances would all EDTs. A bath additive with a limited sumer protection be “much of a muchness”. And at the small amount of citral, linalool, geran- Wohlfart: The suggested marking of end of the day the fine perfumery sec- iol and limonene – quite unthinkable! numerous additional substances tor would also be hit. These fragrance substances are the ba- brings no advantages to consumers or Is research work being carried out by sic aromatic elements for nearly all im- dermatologists. Already today practi- industry and the associations? portant essential oils and even natural cal experience with the 26 allergens Wohlfart: Yes, in fact quite a lot. cosmetics will have to include them. contained in the fragrance mix I and II The IFRA started an extensive research The desire for a range of senses is a shows that if there is an allergic reac- programme a few months ago and it fundamental human need, and in- tion due to cost restrictions it is impos- will mean a lot of expense. It takes time cludes a wide range of fragrances sible to find out what it is caused by; but is the only way that theoretical which cannot be sacrificed, just be- i.e. the consumer still has no idea to claims can be looked at calmly and in- cause of a reducing number of con- which allergen he is reacting. He will validated, or in certain cases, maybe, sumers show an over-sensitive reac- be left with what is for him a totally reinforced. It is important here to as- tion and for whom products free from useless remark in his allergy documen- sess things exactly before setting perfume oils are available. tation “Allergic to fragrance blends”. out on a hastily arranged series of What are the outcomes to be feared? Furthermore it is known that a activities. Wohlfart: If, as anticipated in the patch test can give a large number of We too, as market leaders in the statement, Europe-wide an arbitrary false positive results. For that reason a bath products sector, see that we have 100 cases arose, which were observed ROAT (Repeated Open Application a certain duty. It is our aim firstly to over a period of 12 years and will be Test) should be used. Only in this way confirm that bath products in the right used as the definition of “allergens of can we depend on reliable results, but concentrations are harmless, even for special concern” then this type of it is costly and so rarely used. a sensitised consumer. For this we safety requirement will be excessively It appears more sensible to leave have initiated an industry-independ- exaggerated. The consequences of the more unusual allergens out of the ent research project that is due to be- this requirement would mean an ex- declaration requirement and instead gin soon. It is not made any easier that tremely seriously reduced range of to include those in the requirement sensitisation with the substances that fragrances putting a whole branch of that definitely have a more common interest us is so rare that it will really industry at risk. incidence as shown in the ROAT test. difficult to find test volunteers. Schmidt: The market would tend to- Which manufacturers will be most af- How long will it be before this all comes wards new, less well-known fragrance fected? to a final position? substances. Look at limonene as an ex- Wohlfart: It is important to under- Wohlfart: That depends whether the ample. Over 100,000 tonnes of this fra- stand that there is no alternative to cit- politicians can be convinced that rush grance material is used worldwide an- ral, geraniol, limonene and linalool! If judgements make no sense. Luckily it nually. Data from the IVDK (the infor- their use is restricted then the creative is now an obligation to collect data and mation group of the dermatological possibilities in the field of natural cos- supply it to Cosmetovigilance. Inter- and clinical industry) confidently metics will be reduced as will be the nally these data are already available states that its allergenic potential is as bath products sector from which we to every responsible manufacturer. generate half of our business. Limiting They can make a significant contribu- Downloads these substances would be a catastro- tion to the evaluation of the problem in

Additional information at phe and in no way justifiable – it will a manner free from emotions. www.cossma.com/download simply mean that bath products are di- Interview partners: or you can just scan the QR code! Dr. Rainer Wohlfart: [email protected], luted and used to a much lower degree. www.kneipp.de Your access codes for May: Erich Schmidt: [email protected] User name: cossma5 Limitation would not only mean the re- Password: active Further information can be found on the Internet working of hundreds of formulations. (see Internet panel)

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www.cossma.com Star of the Month

Convenience and sustainability Detergent with two-chamber technology

A new feature of the Duo-Caps used for Henkel‘s pre- dosed Persil detergent is the two-chamber technology. It combines a formulation for brightness with a powerful stain remover all in a water-soluble gel capsule that dissolves even at low temperatures. The DERMATEST® promise:

he aim of the two-chamber system is to combine in an optimum Tway the advantages of two complementary formulations in just We take your one wash. The gels in both chambers are double concentrated and separated success personally. from each other by a water-soluble foil. Thus the ingredients, rather like the enzymes, are better protected Our clients expect performance. And they get more than and remain particularly stable until they are required. Once they come into direct contact with water they are activated to release their action. that. Because our dermatologists are not only experts in the labora-tory, but also in the day-to-day routine of dermatological Convenience in use practice. Experience that leads to better test results. The pre-dosed Duo-Caps are, like their predecessors the Mega- Caps, simply placed in the empty washing machine drum for one wash Dermatest® takes your success personally: the right test for cycle. The machine is then filled with laundry and the appropriate pro- every assignment. Tailor-made for the purpose and with pre- gramme selected – that’s it! Thanks to the water-soluble foil the two cisely the required level of performance to achieve best results capsules dissolve fully during the wash cycle and so come into direct contact with the laundry for excellent washing results. The double capsules are of a sustainable concept as they ensure Dermatological-clinical application tests. Co-operation with other medical that there is no overdosing in the washing machine. Thanks to their specialities (ophthalmologist, gynecologist, paediatrician, dentist etc.) | Simple highly concentrated formulation they carry out washing and stain re- moval even at low temperatures. Furthermore the resealable pouch for epicutaneous trials conducted in accordance with international guidelines | the Duo-Caps, in contrast to a classic gel bottle for the same number TrichoScan hair analysis | Determining skin properties by means of confocal of washes, is manufactured saving more than 50 percent of the pack- laser scanning (VivaScope 1500 system) | Measuring the elasticity of the skin aging material. (cutometry) | Determining the hydration and fat content of the skin (corneometry, Persil Duo-Caps sebumetry) | Sun protection determination according to DIN and COLIPA | in the Universal and Color variants, in a Photo patch tests | Long-term (repetitive) epicutaneous tests | Safety assessment | limited refillable box Measuring TEWL | Ultrasound examination of the skin (DermaScan C) | as well as in the re- Determining skin roughness using PRIMOS (optical 3-D assessment device) | sealable pouch, have been in the shops UVA protection in accordance with COLIPA standard | Human full-thickness since April 2013. AM skin model for cosmetic testing of efficacy and tolerance www.dermatest.de Until the foil dissolves

photo: Henkel photo: the two-chamber tech- nology protects the ingredients of the two complementary formulations dermatest® RESEARCH INSTITUTE FOR RELIABLE RESULTS Taking your success personally COS1305_24_Huber_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 08.05.13 07:36 Seite 24

PRODUCTION LEGISLATION The new regulations put under the microscope

photo: Style-photography.de, The new EU Cosmetics Regulation Shutterstock.com What is really changing?

Dr. Gerd Mildau of the CVUA and Birgit Huber of the IKW explain, in an interview with COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss, what is really new in the Cosmetics Directive, which are the biggest challenges for the manufacturer, and what can be expected with the updating of the substance list and the definition of nanomaterials.

What are the most significant changes in the new EU Cosmetics Directive 1223/2009? Dr. Gerd Mildau, re- Oxidative eyelash colorants sponsible for cosmetics can continue to be used by within the chemical and referring to the forthcoming veterinary investigation of- new regulations

fice (CVUA) in Karlsruhe, Shutterstock.com Katalinks, photo: Germany: Firstly not everything in the EU Cosmetics Regulation has What new points will the manufacturer The substance lists in the annexes have changed. For instance the definition of of cosmetics have to note when adopt- not yet been revised. Is there a concrete cosmetics, the intended use and the ing the major requirements? plan set up to do this? reasonably foreseeable use of the Huber: There are already a number Mildau: Unfortunately the first draft product, and the requirement for the of different requirements which occupy 1223/09 issued in January 2010 con- product to be safe, remain unchanged. the manufacturers at the same time. tained a few mistakes in the substance An important point, however, is that Firstly the safety assessments have to related annexes, in particular in some the safety assessment requirements be adopted progressively, but also the language versions. At the time it was have been specified. products have to be declared to the not, however, planned by the European Really new is an EU-wide product CPNP Notification Database at the legislators to issue debugged annexes. related registration procedure, the European Commission, which is com- The first step was to issue the legal so-called Notification, plus a regulation plex. text. These annexes represent the sta- on common criteria for claims, and a Mildau: And with regard to the tus at the end of 2007, the time when traceability procedure for products on reporting obligation of undesirable the text was put forward to the Euro- the market. effects: as far as I know German manu- pean Parliament. Birgit Huber, deputy facturers have already taken this Part of the substance lists has since head of the IKW (German problem on board in their own organi- then been updated or an amending Cosmetic, Toiletry, Per- sations to comply with their due dili- regulation should be published quite fumery and Detergent gence. In addition to this, however, soon. All of the amendments to the Association) in Frankfurt, there is a new requirement for serious Cosmetics Regulation after 2009 are Germany: In addition there is an cases. Here the European legislators included. However the errors in the introduction of a notification on unde- are attempting to create a cosmetovig- appendices before 2009 must be cor- sirable effects in cosmetics. Serious ilance system. With such a system it rected. undesirable effects must in future be should be recognised at an early stage The working group, consisting of ex- notified to the competent authorities. which substances may have a poten- perts from member states, from the This refers to such cases which after in- tially negative effect on human health. European cosmetics industry and the tended and reasonably foreseeable However, such a system can only Commission, does not have much time use a consumer needs, for example, to work if in serious cases it is clearly left. On July 11th 2013 the full EU Cos- spend some time in hospital. Such identified that a cosmetic product was metics Regulation comes into force, cases are of course extremely rare. really the trigger to the problem. including the annexes. Thus by this The Cosmetics Regulation also lays Huber: To know all of the relevant date everything should be corrected. down regulations for nanomaterials. facts can be very time-consuming. And Until that date the current EU Cosmet- This makes cosmetics the first con- if there is no clear result it must not ics Directive remains in force, with its sumer products for which this category be declared in order to avoid a data annexes. However this Regulation of ingredients is explicitly regulated. cemetery. must be referred to from July 11th

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LEGISLATION PRODUCTION

should the outstanding corrections Meanwhile the SCCS has already not be published in time. evaluated the majority of the hair col- Huber: Substance related devia- orants used. As soon as all of the sub- tions are sometimes related to stances have been evaluated the posi- changes in the definitions. For this tive list will be expanded and then purpose a preamble to annexes II to only the substances appearing on the VI has been created. With regard to list will be permitted for use in hair hair care products it is, for example, colorants products. that eyelashes, as per the new defini- Mildau: The regulations covering tion, do not fall within the scope of nanomaterials are also new, as the im- hair care. plementation provisions of CMR sub- Because hydrogen peroxide is, how- stances. A “CMR substance” is classi- ever, not specifically approved for use fied in the regulations on hazardous in eyelash products, as from July 11th materials as carcinogenic, mutagenic 2013 the whole oxidative eyelash col- or toxic for reproduction. According to Shutterstock.com Studio, Guzel photo: orants product group would no longer the Regulation even substances classi- be permitted. fied as CMR 1A or 1B may be used in After having carried out an extensive risk evaluation for hair colorants only substances will be permitted Based on the collaboration of vari- cosmetics preparations in exceptional which are found in the expanded positive list ous interested parties the SCCS has cases, i.e. strict requirements are to relatively short term issued a positive be met. Finally all substances classified as evaluation of the main ingredients There should be in general accord- nanomaterials must be notified sepa- used in eyelash colorant products. The ing to the interpretation of the EU rately since January 11th 2013 unless Commission has even presented a leg- Commission a dynamic reference to they are in the annexes of the regula- the chemicals legislation of forbidden tion subject to authorisation or they Downloads CMR substances. In Annexes III to VI will have been specifically authorized. of the Cosmetics Regulation only sub- Such authorisations do not yet exist Additional information at www.health-and-beauty.com/ stances with a known CMR history will but for the most commonly-used sub- qr00119 be included. These will be only sub- stances, such as titanium dioxide and or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for May: stances evaluated by the SCCS and ap- zinc oxide, approval is expected by User name: cossma5 th Password: active proved via the comitology procedure July 11 2013. (this is the Standing Committee proce- Until an official definition is pub- islative amendment. Even if this text dure in line with article 32) with restric- lished we recommend companies to has not been published by July 11th tions such as percentage limits, or use the guidelines of the European 2013 producers will have the possibili- warnings, and with a requirement for a cosmetics industry as a guide. Within ty to continue their sales by pointing regular evaluation. the notification full toxicological data to the forthcoming regulation. CMR substances not approved by on the nanomaterial must be submit- Which substances are subject to new the SCCS will no longer appear in the ted in order to confirm the safety of the restrictions? negative list of Annex II. Thus compa- substance. There is a special proce- Huber: In the legislation it is nies, and in particular the safety asses- dure for this within the CPNP process. planned that the Annex IV which refers sors, must have the chemicals legis - Mildau: Another new point is the currently to colorants (for the skin or lation permanently in mind. marking of nanomaterials from July for products themselves) will also be What new requirements are there in 11th, 2013, within INCI. Here the name expanded to hair colorants. For this relation to nanomaterials? of the affected substance will be ex- purpose the precursors of oxidative Huber: Although a definition of panded with the suffix “nano” in paren- hair colorants are defined in the new nanomaterials is included in the cos- theses. Within the product information legislation as hair colorants. Firstly the metics legislation this definition does file a manufacturer must document extensive risk assessment for hair col- leave a few unanswered questions. which nanoparticles are used. Analysis orant substances must be completed, There is also a horizontal definition of nanoparticles in the final product is and for which there is an ambitious from the Commission relating to all another big challenge. Whether it can programme from the EU Commission products concerned. Because there are be achieved will be known when nano- and the industry. The industry has so far no official explanations with re- materials are precisely and officially committed itself to submit the data gard to horizontal recommendations defined. confirming the safety of the hair col- the European cosmetics industry has [email protected], www.cvuaka.bwl.de [email protected], www.ikw.org orants used to the EU‘s Commission created its own guidelines for interpre- Further information can be found on the Internet, scientific committee. tation. (see Internet panel) COS1305_26_News_GB_COS1305_26_News_GB 22.04.13 08:55 Seite 32

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PRODUCTION NEW INGREDIENTS

How fish collagen peptides NEWS work from within Rousselot I A dermatological study performed by the Ingredients French laboratory Cosderma reconfirms the positive effects of Peptan fish colla- gen peptides on H2S – to slow the ageing process skin beauty. The According to the American So- new study was de- ciety for Microbiology hydrogen signed to under- stand the impact of sulphide (H2S) may play a wide- ranging role in staving off age- a daily intake of ing. This is the result of a review Peptan F on skin article from a team of Chinese structure. The dou- scientists which explores the ble-blind random- compound’s different potential ized study versus placebo was per- anti-ageing pathways. H2S seems to slow the ageing formed on 106 process by inhibiting free-radi- healthy female sub- cal reactions, by activating jects (aged 40 to SIRT1, an enzyme believed to 65) over an 84 day be a regulator of lifespan, and period. Confocal probably through its interac- scanning technolo- gy showed a 31%

photo: Muratart, photo: Shutterstock.com tions with a gene, klotho, which reduction in colla- H S may become the next potent is thought to extend lifespan via 2 gen fragmentation a number of different pathways, Rousselot photo: agent for preventing the symptoms after 12 weeks and of ageing in nutricosmetics some of which promote pro- New evidence for skin beauty from collagen density duction of endogenous antioxi- within with fish collagen peptides dants, according to the report. It is like an ACE inhibitor, just like drugs significantly in- that mitigate high blood pressure. Plasma H S declines with age. “Data creased by 9% in 2 the dermis. The study also highlights a considerable potential available so far strongly suggest that H2S may become the next potent agent for preventing and ameliorating the symptoms of aging and age- for nutricosmetic applications. It is easily integrated into sup- associated diseases,” concludes one of the authors. plements, food or beverages. Be bright ! Full coverage hot stamping Metal-like effect Amazing shelf appeal

STÖLZLE YOUR PRESTIGE GLASS PARTNER www.stoelzle.com

Visit us at Luxepack New York | 15th/16th May | booth: D5 www.mega-airless.com COS1305_Sederma_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 19.04.13 09:40 Seite 1

www.cossma.com NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Edison, NJ, May 14-15 stand 1032 Sustainabletechnology for natural efficacy

Wrinkle fi ller LEONTOCELLTM IRB STEMS Leontopodium alpinum stem cells The first and only titrated Maintains the matrix macromolecule structures. plant stem cells for the cosmetic market. Highly effective active ingredients, Dark circles rich in defensive substances TM with high biological activity ECHINACELL and free of any contaminant, using a totally eco-sustainable Echinacea angustifolia stem cells biotech process that fully Protects the capillary wall and reinforces respects the environment. the microvascular environment.

Anti-pollution MARRUCELLTM Marrubium vulgare stem cells Third generation protection against the urban oxidizing damage.

Hyperseborrhea TM SEBULESS HTN POWDER ACTIVES Syringa vulgaris L. powder actives The first and unique extracts Reduces microbial proliferation and from plant cell culture blemishes of young skin. guaranteed 100% contaminant free with the highest and unsurpassed titre available totally eco-friendly produced.

EUROPE - Sederma SAS Tel +33 1 34 84 10 10 email [email protected] www.sederma.fr IRB SpA Istituto di Ricerche Biotecnologiche www.irbtech.com Scan the code for free* sample NORTH AMERICA - Sederma Inc. Tel +732 692 1652 email [email protected] www.sederma.fr LATIN AMERICA email [email protected] www.croda.com/la/pc ASIA PACIFIC email [email protected] www.croda.com/asia *Samples will be sent at Sederma’s discretion *Samples will be sent at Sederma’s Member of Croda International Plc COS1305_28_Cosmoprof_GB_COS1305_28_Cosmoprof_GB 22.04.13 08:55 Seite 28

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PRODUCTION EVENTS

Cosmopack 2013 New ideas at a glance

193,842 visitors – 14% more than in 2012 – came to this year’s Cosmoprof Worldwide event in Bologna in March to learn all about the new products and ideas presented by 2,390 exhibitors including 1,500 from outside Italy. We bring you here some of the highlights presented at Cosmopack, the exhibition area dedicated to pack - aging, packaging machinery and contract production.

sage applicator, for gently massaging the cuticle with fruit acid and a ce- ramide complex has an aroma of blue- berries. The Spacy Art Nail Art Pen, with which the user can sketch her own patterns or images is now available in 15 paraben-free colours. The 4 neon colours for painting on false nails are new. Top Coat BT48972 is a sealant for Spacy, French and Nail Art colours, whilst the Glitter Top Coat BT3623 with a UV filter stops the nail colours from fading. The Lip Painter, a paraben-free Bomo Trendline photo: lip colour that lasts up to 24 hours con- Alternative to lipstick that lasts 24 hours, photo: Neopac photo: and can be combined with a fixer tains moisturising shea butter and has offering a skin care action Luxurious gleaming polyfoil an apricot fragrance. Lip Painter with tubes in rich gold and silver finishes Lip Balm combines the long-lasting lip colours with an ecotest conforming Taiki’s Duo Sponge, a special BB omo Trendline were showing fixer containing aloe vera. cream applicator, combines the techni- Btheir cuticle softener and re- HCP, with years of experience work- cal aspects and simplicity of synthetic mover pen called Soft Cuticle ing with the trend agency Mudpie, were latex with the soft and yet resistant 5144. It contains a ginko extract to pre- showing three colour cosmetics lines touch of Cellbian or Cellfine. The two vent inflammation, vitamins A and E, with the 2014 spring and summer parts of the sponge are melted into a and a caramel fragrance. trends: the youth-inspired Époque thermo-fusible film that limits product The mild, acetone-free Perfect Cor- range, with floral designs and clean penetration inside the sponge result- rector 5269 for fine-tuning of applied marine blue and white tones harks ing in less spillage and a better product nail polish has a raspberry fragrance back to the early 20th century. Verve restitution. BB cream remains at the and contains vitamin E. The nail care reflects the 2014 Latin American influ- top of the sponge and only a small pen for helping the regeneration of ence, with ”flora and fauna” designs quantity is enough for the whole face. damaged nails, the Elastic Care 5143, from the rain forest, in tropical colours. The Unity bottle closure, one of has a fragrance reminiscent of Black Imagine symbolises a fresh breeze and three products from Dieter Bakic that Forest cherry gateau. The Ceramide free-rein creativity with playful designs were selected for the iF design award, Fruit Peeling 5271 twist pen with mas- from the days of our childhood. seals with pressure and with screwing. Get the professional look is a styling The design of the cap allows a new kit developed by Geka working with Michele Burke. It includes special ap- plicators. The unusual 1-piece eyelash brush from DivineLashes gives full and, at the same time, beautifully shaped lashes. In the cleverly designed application disc extra amounts of the paraben-free and TEA-free AME07501B lash mascara formulated by Ancorotti Cosmetics, which dispens-

photos: Geka photos: es well, are deposited lash by lash. It photo: Taiki photo: A special brush design is particularly suitable for use on the The economic yet effective sponge dispenses more mascara upper lashes. designed specially for BB creams Ī

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PRODUCTION EVENTS

usual, and classic, press down and screw movement to open a closure has at last been finally improved. Features of the design are lines which intersect each other, the asymmetry, and the wide range of possible colours. Rebhan presented four new bottle shapes that will be available very Trends for

shortly. Three new shapes made from Bakic Dieter photo: 2014 packed glass polymer, which combines the ad- in a biscuit vantages of glass and plastic, in capac-

bag HCP photo: ities of 30, 50 and 100 ml plus a new de- Opening and closing in a consumer experience when opening sign made from HDPE in a 250 ml size. totally different way and closing the bottle. If the closure is Neopac’s Fascinating Gloss Collec- twisted a disc either rises or sinks to tion is a luxurious range of gleaming with salicylic acid for deep cleansing of provide access to the opening in the polyfoil tubes in high class gold and the pores and the moisturising Anti- cap, or reseals it. This means that the silver finishes, or in other metallic fin- Wrinkle-Eye-Patches. AM The next Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna takes place ishes for a distinguished look and even in Italy from April 11th to 14 th 2014 more gleaming tubes. The tubes, in Pads for deep sizes from 1 ml to 300 ml, can be sup- cleansing of plied with all-around printing. Web-Tips the pores Albea showed their new, integrated Albea: www.albea-group.com airless tube and pump packs repre- Bomo Trendline: www.bomo-trendline.de senting a high-protection and cost-ef- Dieter Bakic: www.bakic.com ficient format and including the indus- CMC: www.cmcpackaging.com Geka: www.geka-world.com try reference SP343 plus the Nea pump HCP: www.hcpackaging.com offering the industry’s widest range of Neopac: www.neopac.com tube customization. Rebhan: www.rebhan-group.com CMC Consumer Medical Care were Taiki: www.taiki-europe.com

photo: CMC photo: showing their Clarifying Toner Pads

Expect amazing new things from high-water formulations.

Despite everything you’ve been led to believe, high performance and a smooth sensory feel are possible in a high-water phase formulation. The secret is using Air Products’ hydrophilic active complexes and Deposilk® Q1 polymer. For performance data and guide formulations, visit our website or call 800-345-3148 (U.S. only) or 610-481-6799. And see how an amazing new generation of lower-cost skin-care products is about to take flight.

tell me more airproducts.com/takefl ight

©2013 Air Products and Chemicals, Inc. COS1305_Lipotec_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 19.04.13 09:42 Seite 1

www.cossma.com juvefoxo™ Guardian of genomic integrity

REVERTING CELLULAR SENESCENCE

Peptide directed at minimising the accumulation of DNA damage, contributing to keeping cells unimpaired for longer. Juvefoxo™ acts by mimicking the activity of FOXO3a, a key protein responsible for maintaining genomic integrity, offering an innovative mechanism of action with proven effi cacy in retarding senescense. Fibroblasts of a donor aged HDFa 55 years HDFa 55 years + HDFa 37 years 55 recovered the characteristics of cells over 10 years younger after a 0,01 mg/ml treatment with Juvefoxo™, offering an advanced rejuvenating effect to Juvefoxo™ anti-aging formulations.

Lipotec GmbH Nassaustraße 3 65719 Hofheim-Wallau, Germany Tel: +49 (0) 6122538990 Fax:+49 (0) 61229277678 E-mail:[email protected] COS1305_32_Sappi_GB_COS1305_32_Sappi_GB 22.04.13 08:56 Seite 32

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PRODUCTION PACKAGING

Paperboard’s numerous and versatile advantages ...... for strong branding

The simple but refined pack - aging for the Strellson men’s Particularly unusual: the fragrance ‘Loaded’ has full- closure flap, located on surface structured embossing the outside of the carton, is fixed with the help of and carries an unusual rubber a red elastic band band closure. The intense white Algro Design cardboard carton skilfully accentuates the contrasts and also has other advantages.

a Swiss cross in black. To bring out the design most strongly it was clear from the outset that it would need to be pre- sented on a pure white background. The economically used decoration, consisting of embossing and a gloss lacquer, was placed on an intense white Algro Design cartonboard from Sappi Fine Paper Europe. ”A more in- tense white is not available anywhere on the market today”, explains Udo Kruizenga, Print Packaging Manager at photo: Sappi photo: Mäurer & Wirtz. A second decisive fac- tor was that the paperboard carton had to be strong enough to support and ess is more, was the central con- The Peter Schmidt Group produced protect the heavy 450 g/m2 flacon. The Lcept behind the development of the design and Carl Edelmann pro- carton, made from fresh fibres, adds the packaging for the Loaded duced and decorated the carton. The perceived value to the pack. It can be men’s fragrance from the Swiss men’s design, development of the package, precisely cut and folded, and is of a fashion house Strellson. The fragrance and all materials application and constant quality. The tactile feel and is produced under licence by Mäurer & transport tests took in total almost a gleaming white give the pack a very Wirtz Prestige (M&W) for the fashion year. sharp printed image with a high level of company. The curved flacon, rather like a hip contrast and an impression of greater flask, with a brushed metal surface is space. distinctively shaped. The very clean lines are also carried through to the re- A rippled finish for better tail carton. The graphics, based simply visual and tactile effects About Mäurer & Wirtz on the overall design elements, is in ef- The full surface embossing with fine Mäurer & Wirtz was established in 1845 as a soap manu- fect a white carton with embossing, the ”washboard” horizontal ripples charac- facturer and today is a fifth generation family run com- brandís plectrum logo in black on a red terises the design of the pack. This vi- pany and one of the five biggest perfume producers in Ger- background and a red rubber band as sual and tactile ripple structure is said many. Since 1990 the company has been a self-sufficient member of the Dalli Group. Altogether there are today an external closure for the carton. to feel almost like leather and to give 350 employees involved in the development and produc- the feeling that the material is some- tion of about 740 cosmetics and personal care products The emergence thing more than cardboard when han- in the market sectors Prestige, 4711, and Beauty. The of a pack design dled – namely something plastic. The most well-known brands include Baldessarini, Strellson, The point of departure for the de- angled lining of the embossed finish Tabac, Betty Barclay, Otto Kern and S. Oliver. sign was the Strellson Sportswear lo- reflects the pattern of brushing on the www.m-w.de go, a red plectrum with black text, and flacon, which also runs across the strip.

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PACKAGING PRODUCTION

Despite the cellophane wrapper the About Algro Design embossing can still be felt. The Algro Design family of products from Sappi includes coated cartonboard with a consistently intense white surface, a high level of light tolerance and a soft feel, supplied in three Simplified print technique product variants: Algro Design with a single-side double coated front face and uncoated rear, To lift the pack from the opulence Algro Design Card with single-sided double coated front face and single coated rear and of the competition the decision was Algro Design Duo with front and back faces symmetrically double coated on both sides. to give the design a masculine simplic- [email protected], www.sappi.com ity with contributions from the shape and the reduced amount of printing used. The manufacturer’s name, product Unusual type of closure length in advance and fitted with a re- name, and the main product data are fixing tainer, was not possible by machine, given using just the three colours red, The closure on the carton is unusu- and had to be done by hand. The bands white and black – any additional infor- al and not normally seen on a card- had to be threaded through the two mation was not to be shown on the board carton. There is no internal flap, punched holes in the rear of the pack pack – no photos, no clash of colours. but it is held firm on the outside with a and fixed into place. Like barbed hooks Then the whole text was printed in red rubber band. The range of initial the retainers spread out in the interior black on Algro Duo cartonboard. The tests produced an optimum solution of of the carton to ensure that the band is full surface linear embossing was ap- holding the carton top in the closed positioned tightly around the flap. This plied by the embossing machine. Only position and rather like leather-clad di- unusual solution earned the carton the the area for the plectrum-shaped logo aries and notebooks the pack it is held nomination as a finalist in the 2012 was left out for later blind embossing. closed by an elastic band. The band, ProCarton/ECMA Awards in the Beauty Finally the whole package was given a fixed to the back of the carton, is pulled & Cosmetics category. matt finish and just the product name forward over the covering flap to seal and logo were given a high gloss lac- the pack. An embossed channel pre- Lars Scheidweiler quer. The high gloss lacquer and the vents the elastic band from sliding off Product Group Manager embossing give the logo a 3D effect. the flap. Fitting of the rubber band Rigid Packaging Sappi Fine Paper Europe The red Strellson logo was applied to was slightly more complex. Threading Alfeld, Germany the flacon as a plastic label. through the bands, which were cut to COS1305_Anomatic_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 19.04.13 09:42 Seite 1

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Airless Keeping air out

Airless packaging is still a growth market. Here COSSMA presents some of the latest developments.

oly’s liquid foundation in a sin- sive project with ”Swirl” 2-in-1 applica- Tgle-walled airless pack with a tions, since it does not extend down in- mirror integrated on the cap has to the container and prevents mixing of a side button actuation and a flow- the two formulations during use. Mega through sponge applicator to help Airless’ new bag-in-bottle airless and apply the product. Their leak-proof air- neutral pack solution delivers both less jar with a hinged lid prevents fin- high-barrier formulation protection – ger contamination thus further impro- with up to six layer combinations avail- ving the product’s shelf life. able. The complete range of BiB con- The chemically neutral Micro 15 ml tainers has been created in coopera - pump from Mega Airless was selected tion with Germany’s Gaplast, which for various L’Oréal brands in an exten- provides the co-extruded “delamina- Primary packaging ting” bottles, while Mega Airless deli- made of tubular glass vers the pump/adapter system. A defi- ned fixing of the inner bag at the bott- le’s bottom and neck results in less The more valuable the contents, the more important

photo: Promens photo: residue as the bag collapses. Recent is Lutz packaging as partner. examples of the system include: Dr. Hauschka Med Body Lotion and Face Cream Weleda Granatapfel Serum in a If we talk about high quality substances, the packaging must 15 ml Mini with self-sealing actuator, also meet these high requirements. Our delivery program as well as Weleda’s range of four ergo- Each squeeze of the tube is equivalent to includes ampoules, vials and perfume tubes as packaging breaking open a new sterile monodose nomically-shaped body lotions. A-derma’s emollient care Exomega for pharmaceutical, biological, dietetic, cosmetic and for very dry and atopic skin is manu- technical substances. factured under a sterile process for both packaging and formulation. To maintain product sterility Pierre Fa- The company Lutz packaging stands for innovative products bre’s brand A-derma uses the D.E.F.I. of high quality, security and reliability as well as most sterile distribution system developed modern production engineering. and patented by Promens in partner- ship with Pierre Fabre laboratories. photo: Mega Airless Mega photo: This closure system is totally airtight, A sophisticated quality assurance system and a customer- The formulation, in a spiral shape, – serum and cream – is dispensed with no air intake and prevents any oriented after sales service are topping off successfully in a synchronised way contamination of the formula before and during product use. The D.E.F.I. this high demand. cap consists of 4 parts, including a sup- ple membrane which rises when pres- For more information, please contact us! sure is applied to the tube and later resumes its position when pressure is released.

photo: Toly photo: Lumson’s new APP Airless Plastic Packaging can be easily customized Foundation with a Lutz GmbH & Co. KG mirror integrated with different shapes as the company’s in the cap has a Airless Pouch Technology can be ap- side button actua- plied to any kind of bottle design. Am Stammholz 11 · 97877 Wertheim / Germany tion and a flow- The system guarantees a dispense rate Phone (+49 93 42) 96 07-0 · Fax (+49 93 42) 96 07-20 through sponge applicator of more than 95% of the container e-mail: [email protected] contents. AM www.lutz-packaging.de COS1305_36_News_GB_COS1305_36_News_GB 22.04.13 08:58 Seite 36

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PRODUCTION PACKAGING NEWS

Targetted innovative cartons Edelmann I The developers and suppliers of retail cartons have NEWS given their business a new look. With a new technical design centre the functions of design and construction, graphics and CAD have Packaging been brought together in order to shorten the time required to create a package ready for production. In the constructive design section concepts for unusual packaging shapes are developed, as well as user-convenient functionality. Compact perfomance An ideas bank of more than 2,500 designs acts as the basis for rapid detailed development. And also regarded as very important in the Lindal I The new department are visual and tactile effects as seen in, for example, “compressed” de- the CEvolution package with curved and rounded shapes, or the odorant format, de- CEholo with individual holographic designs. veloped for three ma- www.edelmann.de jor Unilever brands is highlighted by small- er, “compressed” cans which are said to last as long as the old product, use 50 percent of the propel- lant, are half the size and reduce the over- all carbon footprint of the product by using 28 percent less alu- minum and further savings in transporta- tion and stocking.

photo: Lindal photo: www.lindal.com

The new deo format uses Edelmann Fphoto: 50 percent less propellant New visual and tactile effects in retail carton design

presents

COLOR PREVIEW 2014 with

a hero who really does exist

COLORAKEL at the in Munich CosmeticBusiness HALL 1 BOOTH D17 -

MASTERBATCHES WORLDWIDE WWW.GRAFE-DESIGN.COM COS1305_36_News_GB_COS1305_36_News_GB 22.04.13 08:58 Seite 37

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PACKAGING NEWS PRODUCTION

2012 – another busy year for Market sales for tubes in 2012 tubes Percent of the total aluminium tube output Etma I In 2012 the member companies of etma (the euro- pean tube manufacturers association) once again increased total sales over the previous year, increasing business by 1 percent to 10.33 billion tubes. Accounting for 43 percent of the total, the cosmetics market was by far the biggest. Pharmaceuticals and toothpaste accounted for 23 percent and 20 percent respectively. Other tubes made up the re- maining 14 percent, with foodstuffs taking 9 percent and household and industrial products taking 5 percent. photo: Etma photo:

www.etma-online.org

Ultra-thick glass Ergonomic trigger- Pochet du Courval I 42 blueprints and 21 actuated sprayer sampling tests were, according to the producer, MWV MWV’s ergonomic trigger-actuat- required to develop the bottle for Jour d’Hermès I ed Aerosense aerosol sprayer features ef- which comes in 5 formats, 7.5 ml, 12.5 ml, fortless actuation and a continuous, even 30 ml, 50 ml and 85 ml. The exceptional spray pattern. Additionally, it has a special weight, reaching 450 g for the 85 ml version, feature to prevent the sprayer from unex- is made possible by a special glassmaking pectedly activating in a bag or suitcase. process. Inverse reading silk screen printing The sprayer is designed for products such that plays with the visual properties of lumi- as sun care, body spray deodorant and nous and crystalline glass, adds a graceful hair spray. final touch to the bottles. www.meadwestvaco.com

photo: Pochet du Courvaldu Pochet photo: www.pochetducourval.com Ergonomic trigger sprayer helps

Exceptional weight coupled to distinguish products from traditional MWV photo: with flawless glass distribution push-button sprayers

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SERVICES FORMULATIONS

In our June issue we will be focussing on formulations for sun care products. In July it will be the turn of formulations Natural cosmetics for hair care, hair styling and hair colour products. All of the infor- mation published here has been carefully assembled, however, The natural cosmetics trend is still very significant, but is develop- neither the publishers nor the developers of these formula- ing in a more modest way than it was a few years ago. For many tions can accept responsibility manufacturers it has become clear that one way to progress is to for their safety or accuracy. look and see to what extent traditional products can be reformulat- ed as natural ones. Our selection of 28 formulations submitted has something for everyone, and in a wide range of product categories. For those of you who are interested the full and detailed formula- or those who are looking for tions can be downloaded free of charge from our web site*. F something more refined the Natural Two-Phase Conditioner from Dr. Straetmans, the Brume Micel- Sativum Dual Purpose Mask from Formulations for colour cosmetics laire from Lucas Meyer or the Pisum Active Concepts should prove inter- are put forward by Lonza with their esting. Blush Me Pink, Kobo Products with an Downloads To respond to the strong consumer Ecocert Foundation and Floratech

All formulations can be found at demand for multifunctional products with the All Day Long Concealer. www.cossma.com/download the Multi-Active Anti-Ageing Cream or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for May: from Soliance and the Clean & Care User name: cossma5 Baby Mousse from Zschimmer & Password: active * The access codes to these formulations are found in Schwarz look promising. the Internet panel on this page

Pisum Sativum Jojoba & Coconut Ecocert Ecocert Foundation Dual Purpose Mask Sun Cream SPF 30 Kobo Products Active Concepts Croda Blush Me Pink Healthy Skin Serum Gel Natural Two-Phase Lonza Akzo Nobel Skin Conditioner Mild Sulfate-Free Baby Body Wash Bergamot Liquid Serum Dr. Straetmans Lubrizol Noveon Amedeo Brasca Shine & Comfort Lipstick Brume Micellaire Cosmobiotic Velvet Cream Estenity Lucas Meyer Ashland Mild Hair & Body Shampoo, Natural Lip Balm Stick Clear Body Wash according PEG and Sulfate Free Nordmann, Rassmann to Cosmos Standard Evonik Fresh Gel Cream for Legs BASF All Day Long Concealer Sederma Natural Emulsion Floratech Multi-Activ Anti-Ageing Cream Biesterfeld (Ecocert) Natural Light Face Cream, O/W Soliance Lip Balm – 95% Organic, GfN Selco 100% Natural Sulfate Free Conditioning Brenntag Specialties Eye Tightening Serum Shampoo Honeywell Day Moisturizer TC USA Carotech Natural Slimming Cream Clean & Care Baby Mousse Impag Natural Moisturizing Face Care Zschimmer & Schwarz for Sensitive Skin (O/W) Moisturizing Baby Lotion Natural Body Lotion CLR Kao Chemicals Zschimmer & Schwarz

www.systemkosmetik.de

38 COSSMA 5I2013 COS1305_Lubrizol_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 19.04.13 09:43 Seite 1

www.cossma.com NEW! Carbopol® Ultrez 30 Polymer The Lubrizol Corporation. © 2013 The Lubrizol Corporation. Lubrizol © 2013 The Corporation. Lubrizol The Carbopol ® and Formulate with Confidence with Formulate and make it possible. keep young skin flawless. help aging skin remain youthful. formulate systems featuring challenging anti-aging and blemish-fighting actives with NEW Carbopol® Ultrez 30 ™

are trademarks of of trademarks are polymer. this new rheology modifier offers improved electrolyte tolerance, superior thickening performance in a broader pH range, and rich distinct sensory. it’s all possible with Carbopol Ultrez 30 polymer. formulate with confidence™.

www.lubrizol.com/ultrez30 +32 (0)2.678.1911

make it with Carbopol Ultrez 30 polymer. 631-11_EA_Image_Med_Cos_GB_631-11_EA_Image_Med_Cos_uk 19.04.13 09:45 Seite 1

www.cossma.com medical BEAUTY FORUM… … forms the bridge between research and its practical application in the fields of aesthetic medicine and cosmetics

www.medical-beautyforum.com

For a successful partnership:

· Covers the current state of knowledge and practice for doctors involved with aesthetic procedures and for beauticians · Cosmetology, technology or trophology: Carries in-depth and carefully researched professional knowledge and guidance

– Published 6 times per annum – Reaches more than 10.000 dermatologists, beauticians and plastic surgeons in Germany, Austria and Switzerland

Further information: www.cossma.com/medicalBF

Health and Beauty Germany GmbH • Karl-Friedrich-Str.14–18 • 76133 Karlsruhe • Deutschland Geschäftsführer: Jürgen Volpp • Registergericht Mannheim • HRB 106183 • USt-ID: DE 813859129 COS1305_41_Kalender_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.04.13 08:59 Seite 41

www.cossma.com

EVENTS SERVICES

Fairs, conferences and seminars 20132013 When? What? Where? Who? 13.–14.05.2013 BDIH-Fachtagung Mannheim BDIH Germany [email protected], www.bdih.de 14.–15.05.2013 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Edison, NJ NYSCC USA http://www.nyscc.org/suppliersday2013.html 15.–16.05.2013 Luxe Pack New York Idice SAS New York USA www.luxepack.com 15.–17.05.2013 DGK-Symposium Mannheim DGK e.V. Germany [email protected], www.dgk-ev.de 16.–18.05.2013 Sustainable Cosmetics New York Organic Monitor Summit North America USA www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com 20.–22.05.2013 China Beauty Shanghai Shanghai Baiwen Exhibition Expo China www.cbebaiwen.com 23.05.2013 SCS Annual London SCS General Meeting Great Britain www.scs.org.uk 23.–25.05.2013 epda congress Istanbul epda Turkey www.epda-packaging.com 23.–26.05.2013 EADV Spring Krakau EADV Symposium Poland www.cracow2013.eadv.org 28.–29.05.2013 Welt der Amsterdam PLMA Handelsmarken Netherlands www.plma.nl 28.–30.05.2013 Beautyworld Dubai Epoc Messe Frankfurt Middle East VAE www.beautyworldme.com 01.–03.06.2013 BEAUTY FORUM MACEDONIA Thessaloniki Beauty Greece Tsirimokou Greece [email protected] www.health-and-beauty.com 02.–03.06.2013 Natural & organic London Shorex beauty show Great Britain www.naturalbeautyshow.com 04.–05.06.2013 InnoCos Europe Nice KGS B.V. France www.innocosevents.com 04.–05.06.2013 International Sun London Summit Events Protection Conference Great Britain www.summit-events.com 06.–07.06.2013 SCC Annual St. Louis SCC Scientific Seminar USA www.scconline.org 08.–09.06.2013 Global Art of Berlin Trendmessen GmbH Perfumery Germany www.global-art-of-perfumery.com 08.–10.06.2013 Beyond Color Paris Beyond Beauty Events France www.beyondcolorexpo.com 09.–10.06.2013 Hair and Beauty Frankfurt a.M. Messe Frankfurt Germany Exhibition www.messefrankfurt.com 10.–12.06.2013 CESIO Congress Barcelona Cesio Spain www.cesio-congress.eu 12.–13.06.2013 Pack & Gift Paris Idice France www.packandgift.com 12.–14.06.2013 Cosmetics Europe Brussels Cosmetics Europe General Assembly Belgium www.cosmeticseurope.eu 13.–14.06.2013 CosmeticBusiness Munich Leipziger Messe GmbH Germany www.cosmetic-business.com/tradefair 18.–20.06.2013 HBA Global Expo New York UBM Live USA www.hbaexpo.com 20.–21.06.2013 MakeUp in Paris Paris Beauteam France [email protected], www.makeup-in-paris.com 26.–28.06.2013 Cosme Tokyo Tokyo Reed Exhibitions Japan Cosme Tech Japan [email protected], www.cosmetokyo.jp/en 26.–28.06.2013 International Conference Marracesh ISANH on Antioxidants Morocco www.isanh-me.com 01.–06.09.2013 European Aerosol Prague Czech Aerosol Society Conference Czech Republic [email protected], www.eac2013.cz 04.–06.09.2013 HairS’13 Lübeck DWI an der RWTH Aachen Germany www.dwi.rwth-aachen.de 09.–11.09.2013 Cosmeeting Paris Beyond Beauty Events France www.cosmeeting.com 11.–13.09.2013 Flavors & Fragrances Leipzig GDCh Conference Germany www.gdch.de 12.–13.09.2013 Internationales Seebruck Mandat Marken-Kolloquium Germany www.mandat.de 22.–25.09.2013 Conference on Innovation Lille APGI in Drug Delivery France www.apgi.org

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www.cossma.com/guide Find tomorrow’s

Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry – suppliers today! news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites:

Your entry in the supplier’s database for the personal care and cosmetics industry make sure you are found by your customers of tomorrow – very cost-effective!

3 This entry 1 (Your basic entry, product, divisions, company logo, website, link, short description PLUS your brand names)) is available for just € 120,– 2 per month!

4a 5 4b

Advertising opportunities in www.cossma.com/guide

No. Description Your price per month/ per12 month 1 Basic Entry, consisting of your mailing address, up to 3 contact manes, phone and fax FREE OF CHARGE! numbers, company e-mail adress, listing of up to 4 product divisions (each additional product division: plus € 1,– per month, € 12,–per year) 2 Website link – linking to the URL of your choice € 25,– per month (can only be booked in combination with complete basic entry) € 300,– per 12 month/1 year € 3 Your Company Logo Format 96 x 96 Pixel, 60,– per month will also be published on www.cossma.com/suppliers € 720,– per 12 month/1 year (can only be booked in combination with complete basic entry) 4a Your short description consisting of € 20,– per month up to 2000 characters (app. 20 words) text € 480,– per 12 month/1 year 4b Your profile text consisting of € 40,– per month up to 2000 characters (app. 200 words) text € 480,– per 12 month/1 year Your brands – a list of your most important brand names and trade € 15,– per month 5 (up to 4 brand names) € 180,– per 12 month/1 year

€ You can find further information of these Your will be listed here for just 25,– per month – for further information, please contact suppliers at www.cossma.com/guide Dorothea Michaelis [email protected] phone +49 (0)721 165-144 COS1305_43_IBF_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.04.13 08:59 Seite 43

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INTERNATIONAL B2BEXCHANGE SERVICES Go to

www.cossma.com/ b2bexchange B2B Exchange: Find your for more information business partners of tomorrow today! about suppliers and COSSMA and BEAUTY FORUM will help you to build new their products business contacts. All our business partners can use this "International B2B Exchange". Have a look at the entries below now and find your business partner of tomorrow today! Further information: see www.cossma.com/b2b-exchange (a=NEW!)

Wish to export their products

abalico GERTRAUD GRUBER IONTO-COMED GmbH D-69469 Weinheim, Germany KOSMETIK GmbH & Co. D-76137 Karlsruhe, Germany Contact: Mr. Rüdiger Vogel D-83700 Rottach-Egern/Tegernsee, Germany Contact: Export [email protected]; www.abalico.de Contact: Roland Schäfer [email protected] Products: Cosmetic products [email protected] www.ionto.de for hand and nail www.gertraudgruber.de Products: cosmetic and footcare technology wish to export to: A, CH, F, E, GB Products: Wirkstoffaktives holistisches Produkt- wish to export to: worldwide und Anwendungskonzept auf Naturbasis der 1. Beautyfarm Europas. Akzent direct GmbH wish to export to: worldwide D-63571 Gelnhausen, Germany Klapp Cosmetics GmbH Contact: Mr. Reiner Schmidt D- 37235 Hessisch Lichtenau, Germany [email protected]; Guderma GmbH www.akzent-direct.com Contact: Fernando Duarte Products: Nail Design, Permanent Make-Up D-59192 Bergkamen, Germany [email protected] wish to export to: Asia, AUS, Africa, Near East, Contact: Mr. Manfred Wolf www.klapp-cosmetics.com P, E, I [email protected] Products: Cosmetic products, www.fusspunkt.de SPA collection series Products: Skin Care Products for dry und wish to export to: EU, S. America, Asia Beauty Line Consulting very dry skin D-76698 Ubstadt-Weiher, Germany wish to export to: worldwide Contact: Janos Stegena [email protected] NEOVITA COSMETICS www.belico.de Heitland & Petre International D-69256 Mauer, Germany Products: skin and body Care products, GmbH (ROSA GRAF) Contact: Karina Grimm private label, bulk D- 29229 Celle, Germany [email protected] wish to export to: worldwide Contact: Saskia Schneider www.neovita.de [email protected] Products: Premium Skin Care products for www.heitland.com beauty lumis GmbH professionals Products: skin care products, wellness & spa treat- D- 80995 München, Germany ments wish to export to: worldwide Contact: Angela Frommer wish to export to: worldwide [email protected] www.byonik.net Products: 2-Frequenz-Simultan- Meso-Laser-and Dr. med Christine Schrammek cosmetic products House of Melchiorsen Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG wish to export to: worldwide DK-4700 Naestved, Denmark D-45127 Essen, Germany Contact: Annelise Langhorn Contact: Birgit Schmitz DR. BELTER COSMETIC GMBH [email protected] [email protected] www.susanne-melchiorsen.com www.schrammek.de D-38106 Braunschweig, Germany Products: Natural Skin Care products and herbal Contact: Mira Fischbach teas – made of biodynamic herbs from Products: Hautpflegeprodukte, Peelings [email protected] own d herbs-garden. wish to export to: I, MAL, RA, UA, ZA www.BELTER.de Wish to export to: Worldwide Products: skin and body care cosmetics wish to export to: worldwide TANA Cosmetics Ingeburg Praxis-Cosmetic GmbH D-33602 Bielefeld, Germany Dr. GRANDEL GmbH D-78229 Karlsruhe, Germany Contact: Egypt-Wonder GmbH+Co.KG PHYRIS Premium Spa Cosmetic Contact: Ms. Renate Karner Mr. Ronald Fortmann D-86150 Augsburg, Germany [email protected] [email protected] Contact: Mr. Jürgen Geisler www.praxis-cosmetic.de [email protected] Products: Skin and Body Care www.tana-cosmetics.com www.grandel.de Cosmetics, Ampoules, Products: Colour cosmetics, Products: Skin care products, Decorative cosmetics Cosmetic products for self tanning wish to export to: GB, GUS, TR, TW, S. America wish to export to: EU + worldwide wish to export to: E, F, DK, S

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SERVICES SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE

Suppliers Guide Alphabetical Listing Glittereffekte Glitter Effects Hagebuttenkernöl Rose Hip Oil On the following pages you will find a selection of suppliers to the cosmetics Hyaluronsäure Natrium Hyaluronic Acid Sodium industry. The listing is in alphabetical order based on the English section headings. To make it easier for you to find what you are looking for we have Johanniskrautöl Hacoba St. John’s Wort Oil /Hypericum Oil listed the German section headings below, with their English equivalents. Jojobaperlen Jojobabeads/Grains/Pearls A detailed supplier listing can be found starting on page 43ff. You can also Jojobaöl Jojoba Oil find a full overview, with a search function, at www.cossma.com/guide Karmin Carmine Should your company be listed here? Kosmetik-Farbstoffe Cosmetics Colorants Send an e-mail to [email protected] Kosmetik-Rohstoffe Cosmetics Raw Materials We will be glad to send you details of terms and prices Lanolin (Adeps Lanae), Lanolin (Adeps Lanae), Wollwachs, -alkohole Low Pesticide Wool Wax, pestizidarm Wool Alcohols Lohnabfüllung Contract Filling German Heading see Lohnherstellung Arzneimittel Contract Manufactur ing und Kosmetika Pharmaceuticals and Cosmetics Lohnherstellung und Verpackung Manufacturing + Packaging Abfüll- und Verschließmaschinen Filling and Crimping Machines Adeps Lanae Adeps Lanae Makadamianussöl Macadamia Nut Oil Ätherische Öle Essential Oils Mandelöl Almond Oil Airless Systeme Airless Systems Mischkugeln für Aerosole Aerosol Mixing Balls Aloe Vera Aloe Vera Molch-Reinigungssysteme Pig Clearing Systems Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse Aluminium Seal Closures Nachtkerzenöl Evening Primrose Oil Ampullenabfüllung Ampul Filling Oleochemicals Oleochemicals Avocadobutter Avocadobutter Olivenbutter Olivebutter Avocadoöl Avocado Oil Olivenöl Olive Oil Boragesamenöl Borage Seed Oil Parfümöl Perfume Oil Chitosan Chitosan Pumpen für die Produktion Pumps for the production process Dermatologische + klinische Tests Dermataogical + Clinical Tests Rizinusöl Castor Oil Dichtemessung von Cremes, Density Measurement of Sesamöl Sesame Oil Flüssigkeiten und Aerosolen Creams, Liquids and Aerosols Sheabutter Shea Butter Etiketten Labels Spraysysteme Spray Systems Etuis für die dekorative Kosmetik Pouches a. Cases f. Colour Cosmetics Verpackungen Packaging Fettsäure-Ester Flüssigkeits- Fatty Acid Esters Weizenkeimöl Wheat Germ Oil zerstäuber und Sprühpistolen Dispensers and Trigger Pumps Wirkstoffe für Kosmetika Actives for Cosmetics Formen und Kunststoffteile Molds and Plastic Parts Wollwachs Wool Wax ✂ ✂ ADVERTISING FAX-SERVICE: Fax +49 (0) 721 165-227 Start winning tomorrow’s customer today Please send me an order confirmation for the following ad: with your entry in the suppliers’ guide Category/ies: width of column: 43 mm price per mm height: € 3,10 for a period of: 1 year advertising deadline: 10th day of each month before publication

❑ Yes, I wish to place a firm order for an entry in the suppliers’ Height i. mm: mm guide at a price of € 3,10 per column mm for each entry. ❑ 4 colour (Euro scale) ❑ black and white You will receive the text for my ad with separate fax. To be first published in issue: Company: ❑ 06/2013 ❑ 07-08/2013 ❑ 09/2013 contact: ❑ 10/2013 ❑ 11/2013 ❑ 12/2013 Street, P.O. Box: For a period of: ❑ 1 year ❑ test: 3 month Post Code, City: ❑ Yes, I agree that you may keep me advised of industry news by phone (including mobile phone), by e-mail, or in writing! Country: phone: fax: date, signature

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SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE SERVICES

Adeps Lanae Ampul Filling Contract Filling Aerosol-Qualitätsabfüllung Adeps Lanae Ampullenabfüllung Lohnabfüllung im Rhein-Main-Gebiet Lohnabfüllung Eigene Rezepturen Konfektionierung Zink-Spray H. Erhard Wagner GmbH Verpackung Alu-Spray 28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20 Versand Schmierspray Produktentwicklung Techn. Aerosole Tel. (0421) 69360-0, Fax (0421) 6936015 W + S Aerosoltechnik GmbH www.wagnerlanolin.com Am Sportplatz 5 63791 Karlstein Tel. 0 61 88 / 95 75 13 Fax 0 61 88 / 95 75 44 Ein Unternehmen der Firmengruppe Aerosol Mixing Balls Mischkugeln für Aerosole Fischer Ampullenabfüllung GbR Abfüllung in 1 ml bis 20 ml-Glasampullen Wir bieten auch Konfektionierung an! Lohnabfüllung SiLibeads® Rufen Sie uns an: Zellaerosol GmbH Fischer Ampullenabfüllung GbR Wiesenstraße 13 D-79669 Zell/Wiesental glass balls for Am Sportplatz 5 Telefon 0 76 25 / 92 53-0 D-76479 Steinmauern Telefax 0 76 25 / 92 53-14 aerosol sprays Tel.: ++49 (0) 72 22 / 2 36 26 E-Mail: [email protected] SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH Fax: ++ 49 (0) 72 22 / 2 54 91 Internet: www.zellaerosol.de Phone (++49) 92 77 -9 94 10· Fax (++49) 92 77 - 9 94 99 E-Mail: [email protected] [email protected] www.sili.eu www.ampullenabfuellung.de Please note: Issue 06/2013

Carmine Advertising Publishing date: 03.06.2013 Aloe Vera Karmin Aloe Vera Hotline Advertising deadline: 26.04.2013 +49 (0)721 165-144 Please do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions Call: Dorothea Michaelis +49 (0)721 165-144 Aluminium Seal Closures Certification Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse Zertifizierung Contract Manufacturing + Packaging

HIRTLER SEIFEN GmbH Quality bar soap for personal care

Seit 125 Jahren entwickeln und stellen wir her • Feinseifen (Stückseifen), • Syndets und Combars, • Seifengranulate und -nudeln, SCHENKEN SIE • Rohglycerin LEBEN. MIT und exportieren in alle Welt. HIRTLER SEIFEN GmbH EINER PATEN- Beiersdorfstraße 1 79423 Heitersheim Tel.: 0 76 34/51 00-0 Fax: 0 76 34/51 00-99 SCHAFT. www.hirtler.com0

Werden Sie Pate bei World Your company could be Vision und schenken Sie einem Kind eine echte Chance! placed here for only € 155,00 per issue. www.worldvision.de “We love Cosmetics and live Full Filling Service” Alu-Siegelverschlüsse • Development • Skin & Body Care Alu-Folien • Compounding • Hair Care • für Glas- u. Kunststoff-Behälter Book your ad today. • Filling • Fine Fragrances • in Kleinst- u. Massenauflage • Packaging • Oral Care • in jeder Größe zu jedem Zweck • Logistics • Aerosols • Qualität seit 1957 Call Bahnhofstrasse 47, A- 6175 Kematen DERSCHLAG GmbH & Co. KG Tel: +43 (0)5232-3131-0, Fax: -9401 Stanzerei und Folienverarbeitung +49 (0)721 165-144 57319 Bad Berleburg Transparenzpreis 2009 E-Mail: [email protected] Tel.: 0 27 51/20 27, Fax: 0 27 51/20 25 www.kemacos.com

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SERVICES SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE

Contract Manufacturing Contract Manufacturing Cosmetic Ingredients Cosmetic Spatulas + Packaging Pharmac. + Cosmetics Kosmetik-Rohstoffe Kosmetik-Spatel

   


 go Meding GmbH Kruppstraße 8 · D-58553 Halver  Tel.: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 -0 Fax: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 - 28  [email protected]    www.meding.com   innovativ      kompetent    Dermatological + zuverlässig   Clinical Tests Entwicklung, Bulkherstellung, Konfektionierung    Aerosole, Kosmetik, Pharmazeutik/OTC,  
Medizin- und Haushaltsprodukte

Trichema AG Tel 0041 (0)41 768 0202 
$#"!!  Lättichstrasse 4 Fax 0041 (0)41 768 0200     !   " Postfach 1063 [email protected] "
Engelstraße 37, 48143 Münster CH-6341 Baar www.trichema.ch www.dermatest.de GANZ EINFACH: Your company could be LEISTUNG placed here for only HERSTELLEN € 108,50 per issue. von Salben, Gelen, Cremes, Zahnpasta, Advertising Liquida, Pulver; Suppositorien in PVC- Book your ad today. oder Aluzellen. Hotline ABFÜLLEN Call +49 (0)721 165-144 in Alu-, Kunststoff-, Laminattuben, +49 (0)721 165-144 Tiegel, Flaschen, Beutel, Dosen.

KONFEKTIONIEREN Essential Oils von pharmazeutischen, kosmetischen, Polyurethanes, film forming polymers chemischen Produkten, Nahrungs- und and sensory additives for your Ätherische Öle Genußmitteln. cosmetic formulations [email protected] Ätherische Öle DOKUMENTIEREN www.bayercosmetics.com Aroma-Chemikalien GMP-gerechte Kontrolle und Doku- R Fund Extrakte mentation. Modernes Labor mit www.reincke-fichtner.de Mikrobiologie. baycusan® Rolf Schneider Handelsgesellschaft mbH Louisenstraße 141 D-61348 Bad Homburg Telefon: 06172 49630 WAGENER & CO Fax: 06172 496340 : GANZ EINFACH LEISTUNG. web: www.rolf-schneider- Wagener & Co GmbH handelsgesellschaft.de Postfach 1645 · 49516 Lengerich Telefon 0 54 81 / 8 06 - 0 Telefax 0 54 81 / 8 06 - 200 for more information: www.lanxess-distribution.com E-Mail: [email protected] Displays Internet: www.wagener-co.de Warenpräsentation

PLASTICS PROCESSING DEFORMATION Advertising REFINEMENT Processing and conditioning of plastics Hotline and acryl glass Vacuum forming, milling, polishing, +49 (0)721 165-144 bending, imprinting and mold construction phone +49 (0)89 3 29 20 41 · fax +49 (0)89 3 29 20 42 www.worldvision.de e-mail: [email protected] · www.riwa-display.de

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SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE SERVICES

Filling Lines Glitter Effects Packaging Vegetable Oils Filling Lines Glittereffekte Verpackungen Pflanzenöle

Maschinen für Aerosole Rosa Heinz GmbH www.a-o-t.com und Sprühsysteme ® Verpackungen aus Glas und Kunststoff SiLiglit  Straßfeld 6, 85777 Fahrenzhausen  Tel. +49 (0 )8133 - 91 85 90   
Fax: +49 (0 )8133 - 91 85 99 – Füll- und Verschliessmaschinen [email protected] – Prüf- und Sicherheitseinrichtungen www.rosa-heinz.de – Sortier-, Zuführ- und Aufsetzmaschinen AOT GmbH – Mess- und Testgeräte Kosmetik - Pharmazeutik - Chemie - Technik - Nahrungsmittelindustrie - Farben/Lacke - Polyurethanschäume Pamasol Willi Mäder AG, CH-8808 Pfäffikon We deliver high-quality oils, fats, T +41(0)55 4174040, F +41(0)55 4174044 SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH raw materials and extracts in organic quality Phone (++49) 9277 99410 · Fax (++49) 9277 99499 [email protected], www.pamasol.com E-Mail: [email protected] Verpackung www.sili.eu www.sili.eu für Kosmetik – Selbstabfüller ”Your advertisement Dosen u. Flaschen in Plastik u. Please note: Issue Glas (Sprühköpfe, Dosierspender, could be right“ Aromaflaschen, Parfümflaschen, 06/2013 Sprühflaschen ohne Treibgas) Auch Kleinstmengen! Book now: Publishing date: Fordern Sie unsere Unterlagen an Call +49 (0)721165-144 03.06.2013 R.GERSCHON GMBH D . 61462 Königstein im Taunus Tel. 06174/7017 . Fax 06174/1312 Advertising deadline: Internet: www.gerschon.de 26.04.2013 E-Mail: [email protected] Wool wax Siebdruck ab 300 Stück Wollwachs Please do not hesitate to contact us if H. Erhard Wagner GmbH you have any further 28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20 Tel. (0421) 69360-0, Fax (0421) 6936015 questions www.wagnerlanolin.com Call: Dorothea Michaelis +49 (0)721 165-144 Cosmetic packagings

big choice on stock Lanolin (Adeps Lanae) in plastic, glass, aluminium Lanolin (Adeps Lanae) caps, pumps, sprayers, pipettes MOQ 100 pc for stock items decoration from 1.000 pc per ref.

Gewerbering 10 D-85777 Fahrenzhausen Fon +49 8133 - 44 4090 Fax +49 8133 - 44 409 -11 [email protected] www.pack-it.de H. Erhard Wagner GmbH 28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20 SCHENKEN SIE Tel. (0421) 69360-0, Fax (0421) 6936015 www.wagnerlanolin.com LEBEN. MIT EINER PATEN- SCHAFT. Food Supplements Nahrungsergänzung Mixing + homogenizing Werden Sie Pate bei World Vision und schenken Sie einem Kind eine echte Chance!

privatebrand.ch www.worldvision.de

 A STEP AHEAD       symex GmbH & Co. KG Lengstr. 10, 27572 Bremerhaven  
Fon: +49 (0)471/98 4010 Fax: +49 (0)471/98 40140 Transparenzpreis 2009 www.symex.de

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Advertisers’ Company Index Index

A-derma Floratech Neopac Air Products & Chemicals Inc www.aderma.com p. 35 www.floratech.com p. 38 www.neopac.com p. 26 www.airproducts.com p. 30 Adina Chemicals Gaplast Neovita Cosmetics Ama Laboratories www.cosmeticingredients.co.uk p. 8 www.gaplast.de p. 35 www.amalabs.com p. 16 www.neovita.eu p. 3 Aerobal Geka Akzo Nobel Surface Chemistry www.aerobal.org p. 36 www.geka-world.com p. 28 Oriflame www.akzonobel.com p. 7 www.oriflame.com p. 19 Albea Givaudan Anomatic Corp. www.albea-group.com p. 26 www.givaudan.com p. 8 Peter Schmidt Group www.anomatic.com p. 34 www.peter-schmidt-group.de p. 32 Ancorotti Cosmetics HCP Beauteam – MakeUp in Paris www.ancorotticosmetics.com p. 28 www.hcpackaging.com p. 28 Pierre Fabre www.premiumbeautynews.com p. 22 Avon Henkel www.pierre-fabre.com p. 35 Bayer Material Science AG www.avon.com p. 8 www.henkel.com p. 23 www.bayercosmetics.de p. 52 Pochet du Courval Babor IFF www.verreries-pochet.fr p. 36 bi packaging Zhejiang B.I. I/E CO.,LTD. www.babor.de pp. 3, 16 www.iff.com p. 8 www.bi-packaging.com p. 29 Promens Beiersdorf IKW www.promens.com p. 35 CLR Chem. Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH www.beiersdorf.com p. 8 www.ikw.org pp. 3, 24 www.clr-berlin.com p. 2 Rahn Bomo Trendline Kneipp-Werke www.rahn-group.com p. 8 Clariant International Ltd www.bomo-trendline.de p. 28 www.kneipp.de pp. 8, 20 www.clariant-personalcare.com S.17 CMC Consumer Medical Care Kobo Products Rebhan Coradin SAS Plastic Injection Molding www.cmcpackaging.com p. 26 www.koboproductsinc.com p. 38 www.rebhan-group.com p. 26 www.conradin.com p. 9 Cosderma L’Oréal Rousselot Cremer Care www.cosderma.com p. 26 www.loreal.com pp. 3, 12, 35 www.rousselot.com p. 26 www.cremer-care.com p. 37 Cosmopack Lindal Sappi DERMATEST GmbH www.cosmoprof.com p. 28 www.lindalgroup.com p. 36 www.sappi.com p. 32 www.dermatest.de p. 23 CPL Aromas Lonza Soliance Flavex Naturextrakte GmbH www.cplaromas.com p. 8 www.lonzagroup.com p. 38 www.flavex.com p. 8 www.soliance.com p. 38 Croda Lumson GRAFE Advanced Polymers GmbH www.croda.com p. 10 www.lumson.it p. 35 Strellson www.grafe.com p. 36 www.strellson.com p. 32 CVUA Mani Greentech GmbH www.cvua-karlsruhe.de pp. 3, 24 www.mani-gmbh.com p. 8 Symrise www.greentechgmbh.de p. 15 www.symrise.com p. 8 Dieter Bakic Mäurer & Wirtz Prestige IMPAG Import GmbH www.bakic.com p. 26 www.m-w.com p. 32 Taiki www.impag.de, www.impag.eu p. 13 Dr. Grandel Medik8 www.taiki-europe.com p. 26 Kosmetik Konzept GmbH www.grandel.de p. 19 www.medik8.com p. 19 www.kosmetik-konzept.eu p. 25 Toly Dr. Hauschka Mega Airless www.toly.com p. 35 Lipotec S.A. www.drhauschka.com p. 35 www.megaplast.de p. 35 www.lipotec.com p. 31 Unilever Drom Mintel www.unilever.com p. 36 Lonza Personal Care www.drom.com p. 8 www.mintel.com p. 19 www.lonza.com, www.archchemicals.com p. 5 Edelmann Mudpie Weleda Lubrizol Advanced Materials www.edelmann.de pp. 32, 36 www.mudpie.co.uk p. 28 www.weleda.com p. 35 www.lubrizol.com p. 39 Etma MWV Zschimmer & Schwarz Lutz GmbH & Co. KG www.etma-online.org p. 36 www.meadwestvaco.com p. 36 www.zschimmer-schwarz.com p. 38 www.lutz-packaging.de p. 35 Mani GmbH Chemische Produkte www.mani-gmbh.com pp. 19, 38 MegaPlast GmbH www.megaplast.de p. 26 Nahrin AG www.nahrin.ch p. 15 Sederma GmbH www.sederma.fr p. 27 Stölzle-Oberglas GmbH www.stoelzle.com p. 26 SystemKosmetik Produktionsges. für kosm. Erzeugnisse GmbH www.systemkosmetik.de p. 38 Tubex GmbH www.tubex.de p. 33

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www.cossma.com Trends Masthead Statements Page Innovation

E-mail newsletter order The Volume 14 ISSN 1439-7676 Published by Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Team Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp Assistant: Phone: +49 721 165-311

Address Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, COSSMA P.O. Box 1446, 76003 Karlsruhe, Germany Phone: +49 721 165-0, Fax: +49 721 165-148

Editorial Staff Legally responsible party and Senior Editor: Angelika Meiss Phone: +49 721 165-169 E-mail: [email protected]

Advisory Board François Berthoud, Jean-François Billon, Agnès Borel, Peter Finkel, Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Ulrich Herfurt, Managing Director Birgit Huber, Dr. Jean-Luc Lévêque, Dr. Daniel Maes, Jürgen Volpp Prof. Dr. Hagen Tronnier, Dr. Klaus-Peter Wittern

Advertising Advertisement Manager: Dorothea Michaelis Phone: +49 721 165-144 E-mail: [email protected] Advertising Services: Ruth Reif Phone: +49 721 165-232, Fax: +49 721 165-148 The current list of advertising rates is dated 1st of Jan. 2013.

Circulation Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Service [email protected] Phone: +49 721 165-162, Fax: +49 721 165-148 Published: 10 issues per year COSSMA: formerly “Parfümerie und Kosmetik“ and z Senior Editor “Aerosol and Spray Report“ Yes, I want to be kept right up to date. I therefore agree Angelika Meiss that Health and Beauty Germany GmbH may contact +49 721 165-169 Subscription Purchase price/annual subscription rates: Rates Germany: € 192; outside Germany: € 198. me Cancellations addressed to the publishing firm J by mobile phone J by e-mail by letter will be accepted one month before the end of the subscription year. The subscription fees will be billed in J in writing J by telephone/fax advance once a year. A quarterly debit transfer arrange- ment via a bank or post office is acceptable. with news from the industry and to tell me about inter- esting offers. If I do not wish to receive further infor- Design/ Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Production Ulrich Hanke mation, I will communicate this to Health and Beauty. Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18, 76133 Karlsruhe, Germany Phone: +49 721 165-592 ISDN (Leonardo): +49 721 165-696

Printing Kraft Druck GmbH Please fill in completly in capital letters or add your business card: Advertising Sales Industriestr. 5-9, 76275 Ettlingen, Germany Dorothea Michaelis +49 721 165-144 @ International Representatives E-mail Hungary Health and Beauty Business Media Kft. Anita Zsilak, Naphegy tér 8. III. em. (MTI Székház) 1016 Budapest, Hungary Phone: +36 1 457006600, Fax: +36 1 2013248 First name, family name E-mail: [email protected] Italy Zero Venti Loris Sparti Via Giuseppew Luigi Passalacqua, 4 Company 10122 Torino, Italy Phone: +39 348 2247176 E-mail: [email protected] Poland Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.o.o. Street address Advertising Support Malgorzata Szulc, ul. Kubickiego 9/3 Ruth Reif 02-954 Warsaw, Poland +49 (0)721 165-232 Phone: +48 22 8587955, Fax: +48 22 8587953 E-mail: [email protected] Postcode, city, country USA and Canada D.A. Fox Advertising Sales Inc. Detlef Fox 19th Floor 5 Penn Plaza New York, NY NY 10001, USA Phone: +1 212 896-3881 Fax: +1 212 629-3988 E-mail: [email protected] Date and signature

© Copyright Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, Karlsruhe 2013 The publisher has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the accuracy of infor- mation in this magazine. Never theless, no responsibility is accepted for any Graphics errors which may occur. The magazine, including all articles and illustrations is Ulrich Hanke copyright. Unauthorised use of published material is prohibited and will be the Order today: +49 (0)721 165-592 subject of legal action. This applies in particular to photo copying, translations, microfilms and the storage and editing using electronic media. The use of trade Fax: +49 (0)721 165-103 names, brand names, product designations etc. in this publication implies no authority for their further use by third parties. Such product names and brands may be the subject of legal protection, even though they may not be identified Health and Beauty Germany GmbH as such in the magazine. Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Germany [email protected] Tel: +49(0) 721 165-131 Fax: +49(0) 721 165-103 COS1305_50_Vorschau_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.04.13 09:01 Seite 50

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Trend statement Current trends in actives

It is not just the active substance but motional promises. The market has room for high cost as also the concentration level of such a well as for economical products, and not everybody can af- substance that plays a key role in the ford expensive power actives. We are quite convinced, how- efficacy of cosmetics. ever, that tomorrow’s consumers will want to know more Based on many years with the active exactly what they are buying. They will be prepared to dig substance suppliers Pentapharm deep into their pockets only if there is a suitably high per- (now DSM) I can confidently say that centage of genuine actives in the product, as the competi- in our products we use as high a con- tion promises already. Markus Lüthy, centration of the active substance as www.elfetin.ch founder and MD we can. Certainly an active substance of Elfetin Cosmetics concentration of 10% and more is a real exception, and the development of such products was always a real challenge. Incompatibil- ity between individual actives, and insufficient stability, were a problem for months. The results of the in vivo tests however show that the use of very high active concentrations, with care to ensure an ide- al active combination, pays off. Special combinations of synthetic tripeptides with moisturisers and selected biotech actives are particularly suitable. Even well-known and proven actives can extend their potential in this way, and can be a useful addition. In practice consumers are very satis- fied when they experience what a cosmetic product with a high active concentration can achieve. There is still a lot of clarification required to ensure that the photo: Isak 55, Shutterstock.com photo: end user is able to distinguish between products with a high A real challenge – high active concentrations level of effective actives and those that just make empty pro- in an ideal combination

PREVIEW June 2013

A fresh breeze blowing through Product development the hair care business Maria Castan, Global Senior Scientist Wella, Hair Color, Care & Styling, discusses the trends that will characterise hair care in the future

Plus: +++ Current hair care trends under the microscope +++ Bottles and jars – elegant new ideas in view? +++ +++ Exhibition preview: Make-up in Paris and Cosmetic photo: Anna Subbotina, Shutterstock.com Subbotina, Anna photo: Business +++ Focus: Hair care COSSMA 6/2013 is published on June 3rd, 2013

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www.cossma.com/suppliers Find tomorrow’s

Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry – suppliers today! news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites:

www.akzonobel.com/ www.a-o-t.com www.cherbsloeh.de www.kemacos.com www.botanica.ch www.waldeck-gmbh.de detergents www.rationator.com

PUROLAN ENERGIZED BY www.lanxess-distribution.com www.meding.com www.neopac.ch www.flavex.com www.bayercosmetics.com www.gerschon.de www.mawi-chemie.de Your Logo here € 60,– www.lohn-pack.com www.pfeiffer-consulting.com www.nordtek.hu/en www.yourcompany.com www.trichema.ch www.brenntag-gmbh.com www.ampullenabfuellung.de

www.zellaerosol.de www.seufert.com www.pro-beauty-production.de www.hhac.de www.novel-care.de www.cplaromas.com www.neocos.com

www.systemkosmetik.de www.derschlag.com www.privatebrand.ch www.unionpack.de www.Kosmetik-Konzept.eu

www.pack-it.de www.riwa-display.de www.etol.de www.temmentec.ch www.rusi.de www.lutz-packaging.de www.ballerstaedt.de

www.kautz-design.com www.hirtler.com www.symex.de www.siriusmaschinen.de www.domino-deutschland.de www.intracosmed.ch www.rettner.de

€ You can find further information of these Your logo can be listed here for just 60,– per month – for further information, please contact [email protected]/suppliers as well Dorothea Michaelis as on their homepages (see Url below the logos). [email protected] phone +49 (0)721 165-144 COS1305_Bayer_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 19.04.13 09:50 Seite 1

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POLYURETHANES FOR COSMETICS Bayer MaterialScience AG, 51368 Leverkusen, Germany · MS00063260 51368 Leverkusen, MaterialScience AG, Bayer