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Active Ingredients 5/2013 COS1305_01_Titel_GB_COS1305_01_Titel_GB. 07.05.13 14:43 Seite 1 E51280 COSMETICS SPRAY TECHNOLOGY MARKETING Actives Sustainable new sources of actives for cosmetics Ingredients How safe are the controversial chemicals used in cosmetics? Marketing Fragrance allergies – an overview of the current position Packaging Cosmopack review – new ideas at a glance VIP of the Month Dr. Gerd Mildau from the CVUA and Birgit Huber of the IKW offer some comments on the new EU Cosmetics Regulation 5/2013 Focus: Active ingredients www.cossma.com COS1305_CLR_links_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 19.04.13 09:49 Seite 1 www.cossma.com COS1305_03_Edi_GB_Layout 1 22.04.13 08:45 Seite 1 www.cossma.com EDITORIAL A few hot topics … In the March issue of COSSMA fragrance houses spoke about how, in their view, they saw the impact of the SCCS statement on the subject of fragrance aller- gies. Some readers were surprised to see that the big international fragrance houses were not represented here. We did in fact ask international manufacturers for their views, but none was ready at that time to make a public statement. We can only speculate about what was stopping them. In the current issue starting on page 20 we now pres- ent a general statement from the point of view of an Downloads Download-services at www.cossma.com/download or scan the QR code now! Your access codes for May: ta Cosmetics, is convinced that biotechnically-obtained User name: cossma5 Password: active peptides will become ever more important when offering You can get faster access to the additional information available using our consumers products to tackle a specific role rather than QR codes and our e-paper. The e-paper, which will run on all tablet PCs, gives you to direct links to TV clips, downloads, book tips, and more. fobbing them off with very general anti-ageing claims. He sees other trends as pre-ageing actives to combat damag- ing environmental influences, actives to combat free radi- end product manufacturer and a perfumer, which, cals like superfruits, and soothing actives of natural origin among other things makes clear, the potential impact to reinforce the skin’s barrier for sensitive users, as well as of a rush to introduce legislation, for example on the carrier systems where, given the uncertainty about nano - bath additives sector. technology, they can carry the active substance to exactly Another topic that is taxing the brains of the cosmet- where it is needed. And what other active ingredient ics industry is the following: there are still plenty of trends are there? You can discover more in an interview studies being published that tell us how the inclusion with Babor’s head of R&D Andrea Weber, on page 16. in cosmetics products of chemical substances can cause cancer, lack of reproductive ability or other damaging effects on fertility. Is there anything in all I hope you enjoy this issue, this? You can read starting on page 12 the consid- yours ered view of toxicologist Dr. Gerhard Nohynek, who was head of global safety evaluation at L’Oréal for many years. A further topic that the industry is having to think Angelika Meiss about is the new EU Cosmetics Directive. We can see Senior editor, COSSMA how sorting out legal details is not everyone’s “cup of tea”, but the practical comments in the form of an in- terview with Dr. Gerd Mildau of the German CVUA, giving the views of the monitoring authorities, and Follow us on with Birgit Huber of the IKW giving the views of the association (starting on page 24), will be a useful aid www.linkedin.com/in/cossma www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine to many people when assessing the Directive. Trends in active ingredients are another focus in this issue. Jürgen Singer, MD and head of R&D at Neovi- www.facebook.com/cossmamagazin www.youtube.de/cossmatv COSSMA 5I2013 3 COS1305_04_Inhalt_GB_COS0701_04_Inhalt_D 22.04.13 08:46 Seite 4 www.cossma.com Contents 3 Editorial ࡯ NEWS 8 Markets + Profiles ࡯ FOCUS Actives 10 a Angela Kleiner, Croda: Stem cells and meristematic cells – New sources of actives for cosmetics 12 a Dr. Gerhard Nohynek, formerly L’Oréal: 10 I Plant-based meris- Are parabens safe in cosmetics? tematic cells for some 16 Interview with Andrea Weber, Babor: very promising actives Trend-setting actives in view 19 Vivienne Rudd, Mintel: International launches ࡯ MARKETING 20 a Interview with Dr. Rainer Wohlfart, Kneipp-Werke, and Erich Schmidt, perfumer: 24 I The most The statement by the SCCS – important new The key points summarised requirements in the 23 Star of the Month: Cosmetics Directive – Detergent with two-chamber technology short and to the point ࡯ PRODUCTION 24 a Interview with Dr. Gerd Mildau, CVUA, and Birgit Huber, IKW: The new EU Cosmetics Directive – Short and to the point: What is really changing? 26 New Ingredients 28 a Cosmopack 2013 – New ideas at a glance 32 Lars Scheidweiler, Sappi: Paperboard’s numerous and versatile advantages for strong branding 35 Airless – A breath of fresh air, but not for cosmetics 36 Packaging News ࡯ SERVICES Cosmopack 28 I 6 Download List review: new ideas 38 Formulations: Natural cosmetics at a glance 41 Events Diary 43 International B2B Exchange 44 Suppliers‘ Guide 48 Company Index 48 Advertisers‘ Index 49 Masthead Page 50 Trend statement by Markus Lüthy, Elfetin Cosmetics 50 Preview 32 I How white cardboard can accentuate the a Leading articles brand image Front cover picture: Max777, Shutterstock.com COS1305_Lonza_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 19.04.13 09:36 Seite 1 www.cossma.com PersonalCare Vivillume™ Recapture Skin’s Youthful Vitality **66-5945,.459*)952-,79,.945526929451+245'09 Key Claims 7.-,+-6925242)1597945'-1*)9,+5925242)159.9'249 – Restores skin luminosity *5),2,*.)92.1*2,5'9*,+9,+59455)159.95 159 – Promotes even skin tone *6*4-*)954*5'94.9,+59 +*,59*4'9.93242'*5962),09 9 99*+,9-)'54!5759'2491*4165 ,+*9)59*)45'*5),9*4.59*)9,.)59,.97*56'9291652409 9 995145259-)'54!5759-(9)5 *66-*)2,5'91.65 *.) – Healthy youthful complexion For more information, please visit us at NYSCC Suppliers’ 595569 Day, 14-15 May, Booth #701! &9 2,549 9Strelitzia nicolai /55'9 4*69 ,421, ;:98765493621509/.-,+9362*)(956'09&%9:;:$:999#"! :$!"!:: www.lonza.com COS1305_06_Download_GB 22.04.13 08:46 Seite 6 www.cossma.com SERVICES DOWNLOAD Free Downloads for Subscribers www.cossma.com/download COSSMA Download-Tip Click through our Web TV clips: Powerful innovation management www.cossma.com/tv Innovation and innovation management have been used as mantras in all indus- tries for a long time. But how can they be applied successfully? In spite of all the customer-focused approaches in today’s organizations, some do not even know who their customer is. This is why it is important to get out of the office or lab- oratory and watch your customers work, live and play. Hans W. Steisslinger . explains just how complex . explains why Technotraf, a specialist for wood in successful innovation packaging, is a great addition to the Quadpack group management really is. of companies. COSSMA subscribers can download further back- ground information. A clearly structured inno - vation process should be photo: Bonninstudio/Shutterstock.com photo: implemented Top-Downloads for May . • Background: … points out in which areas of colour cosmetics packaging Alternative Carrier Systems the innovation process was most dynamic. (Sopharcos) • Literature References: Advertising and promotion of cosmetic products • Product Information: BergaMuls ET 1 (Berg & Schmidt) . • Formulation: Washable Facial Mask … talks about the company’s recent launches, many of (Lehmann & Voss) Fotalia.de Sorohin, Nikolai photo: which are very suitable for natural cosmetics. Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA Downloads web site we post lots of additional information elated to the topics covered in the magazine. Additional information at You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items www.cossma.com/download to extend your knowledge and understanding: or you can just scan more information on the ingredients and the QR code! Your access codes finished products that we cover, market data and statistics, supplier listings, literature references, . for May: User name: cossma5 scientific articles, product formulations and useful . explains the different aspects of the design relaunch for Password: active base formulations. Take a look right now, at the Beiersdorf brand „Nivea“. www.cossma.com/download 6 COSSMA 5I2013 COS1305_AkzoNobel_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 19.04.13 09:37 Seite 1 www.cossma.com THE NATURAL PROGRESSION IN BIOACTIVES Bring an entirely new level of efficacy and differentiation to anti-aging skincare with Recentia® plant serum fractions. Derived from living plant or marine sources using patented Zeta Fraction™ technology, these ingredients offer unparalleled benefits. Recentia® ingredients are bioactive plant fractions with potent anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant and photo-stabilization activity. Capturing the synergy that exists within the plant cell, Recentia® ingredients target multiple biological pathways responsible for skin aging. They include only naturally-occurring substances without any modification, making them completely sustainable, reproducible and safe differentiators for your skincare formulation. For more information, visit akzonobel.com/personalcare We think you’ll be amazed. UNITED STATES T 888-331-6212 E [email protected] EUROPE T +41-41-469-69-66 E [email protected] ASIA / PACIFIC T +65 67738488 E [email protected] COS1305_08_People_GB_COS1305_08_People_GB 22.04.13 08:47 Seite 8 www.cossma.com NEWS MARKETS + PROFILES Beiersdorf: CPL Aromas: Drom: Kneipp-Werke: ... Dr. Jürgen Blaak Rahn: Georg W. Claussen Begum Oner Mark B. Murphy Dr. Peter Staib and ... Dr. Martin Köther People Beiersdorf I Georg W. and responsible for Europe and of Lausanne in the department Claussen, Honorary Chairman North America, has left the of dermatology and a leader of Adina Chemicals I Ken of Beiersdorf, died in Hamburg company.
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