VOL. 33, NO. 1 SPRING 2013

Great Estates in April house tour will feature Claremont Pines By Dennis Evanosky OHA’s “Great Estates in April” tour takes PECK place Saturday, April 20, in Claremont Pines THA and Upper Rockridge, and features a neigh- MAR borhood that emerged in 1927 from the Philip E. Bowles estate as suburban garden development. Part of the neighborhood underwent a second renaissance 64 years later after the 1991 Oakland hills fire. The tour offers a rare opportunity to view impressive examples of Tudor and Mediter- ranean revival style homes designed by two of Oakland’s most distinguished architects, William Schirmer and E. Geoffrey Bangs. Schirmer and his partner Arthur Bugbee designed Sweet’s Ballroom in downtown Oakland. Schirmer also had a hand in the design of the Alameda County Courthouse VISIT OUR NEWEST LANDMARK: the Morse house is expected to be Oakland's latest on Lake Merritt. Things would have gone landmark by the day of the tour differently if Schirmer’s father, a former sea Bangs was a Cal graduate, who earned his the interiors of four great homes and a beau- captain, had had his way. bachelor’s degree in 1914. One year later he tiful garden, use the self-guided walking map Dad owned Schirmer Stevedoring and Bal- held a master’s degree. His spent his early in the descriptive booklet, which points out last. “He wanted his oldest son to enter the career working in the office of John Galen views of additional homes, vistas and local firm. But unlike his brothers, Bill refused,” Howard. Bangs designed many public build- landscaping. “Vintage Vistas” offers the Dave Weinstein writes. ings and large-scale public housing projects opportunity to study the neighborhood’s Instead, “Bill” studied architecture at the in Northern California, including Lewis Hall eclectic architecture. Tickets purchased Mark Hopkins Institute, then studied or at his alma mater, the Contra Costa Hall of before the day of the tour cost $30 for OHA worked with Willis Polk. By 1916, Schirmer Records in Martinez and the courthouses for members; general admission tickets are $35. was designing homes in Oakland in partner- Shasta and Butte counties They will cost $5 extra on the day of the tour. ship with Bugbee. “By 1921, the firm was This year, OHA is offering two types of “Sunset over the City” runs from 5 to 8 earning praise as pioneering designers of fine tours, both on April 20. “Vintage Vistas” will p.m. and offers the opportunity to meet and apartment houses,” Weinstein writes. run from 1 to 4 p.m. In addition to visiting See TOUR on page 8

Berkeley in 1882, purchased 58 acres and Claremont Pines: an estate transformed built his family home. He had successful By Dennis Evanosky became Margarido Drive in 1928 as a careers in the shipping and banking business- Claremont Pines borrowed its name from memorial to Tony Margarido who died in es. He served his alma mater as a regent from nearby Claremont, a neighborhood that World War I.) 1913 to 1920. became part of Oakland in 1908, and from Claremont Pines has its roots in land that He died on Jan. 20, 1926, at the age of 67. Philip E. Bowles’ spacious home “The John Coffee “Jack” Hayes and Charles and His obituary called him a “fancier of fine Pines.” Horatio Livermore purchased from Vicente horses” and said that “his stable of animals Bowles, a Humboldt County native, lived Peralta in 1850. Twenty-nine years later, the on his beautiful Oakland estate was reputed in the mansion on a sprawling estate with his trio recorded a deed for the portion of the to be one of the finest in the country.” A wife, Mary, and the couple’s daughter and land bounded by today’s Romany Road, biography in Joseph Eugene Baker’s Past two sons. The San Francisco Blue Book list- Golden Gate Avenue and Broadway. The and Present of Alameda County, written ed Philip and Mary’s address “at Broadway deed bears the title “Rockridge Township.” Terrace and Prospect Drive.” (Prospect Drive In 1904, Bowles, who graduated from UC See PINES on page 2 Page 2

Pines “This will be the finest residential property PECK in the country,” the Oakland Paving Compa-

Continued from page 1 THA ny chimed in on an advertisement on the while Bowles was still alive, said,“Mr. same page. “Our men will be on the job Bowles is a man of strong physique, particu- tomorrow.” larly fond of outdoor sports of all kinds, ALL: MAR “Improvements at Claremont Pines are being especially interested in the manly being rapidly installed,” York Company’s sports of the Claremont Club, to which he vice-president H.G. Schwartz told the Tri- belongs.” Bowles did not have to go far to bune on Oct. 30, 1927. “Prospect Drive over- visit the club. Its members set up shop just looks the beautiful links of the Claremont across Prospect Drive in 1904, the same year Golf and Country Club, fashionable property, he purchased his property. and our earliest building development will be After his death, Mary sold the estate to four along this street,” said Schwarz. Southern California developers: Charles B. He also told the Tribune that Country Club Hopper, J.R. Pinkham, and Arthur and Drive had been “hewn through and was Harold Braly. The four men set up the Clare- ready for stumping.” Grading would then fol- mont Pines Corporation. low the stumping, Schwartz explained, “We “The corporation chose the York Company, are also opening Lincolnshire. Glenbrook, Inc. of Oakland to handle the development Beechwood and Yorkshire drives.” and exclusive sales of Claremont Pines,” “The recent rains freshened the woods and writes The Grubb. Co.’s Jeffrey Smith. York added to the charm of Claremont Pines, went to work subdividing the property. Susan bringing even more visitors than at the for- Dinkelspiel Cerney writes that the new mal opening to the tract,” the Tribune neighborhood boasted “large lots, under- enthused. The newspaper assured future visi- ground utilities and decorative streetlights. tors to the site that the York Company had a She says that the neighborhood used “British tract office on Broadway Terrace in the street names to attract showplace Period works “to provide their guests with rooms to Revival homes”—all this in harmony with study plats and examine plans.” the then-popular Garden City Movement. The Tribune promised that the new office Mary shared part of her husband’s estate— PORTICO of the Walter A. Genesy “would have a picturesque tile roof and other $350,000 of it—with UC Berkeley. The House, top. At bottom, a rosette detail improvements. The aromatic scent of wood school built the imposing “Bowles Hall” on a from the DeFremery House, and a lantern burning in open hearths would add an appeal hill overlooking the campus with the wind- detail from the Morse House. at the tract office, just as it did at its head- fall. The Berkeley Daily Planet called Mary moved out of the family home on quarters in the Bowles mansion in the center Bowles Hall “the first state-owned college or Oct. 7, 1927, and the York Company wasted of the woods.” university residential hall in California.” The little time transforming property into Oak- An application to honor the Morse house men who live in the hall call themselves land’s newest neighborhood. Two days later, on Margarido Drive as a city landmark says “Bowlesmen,” a moniker they proudly carry on Oct. 9, 1927, an Oakland Tribune article that the developers built the concept of with them the rest of their lives. They even announced that buyers were welcome. Clyde design review into the tract restrictions: the have their own drinking song. O. Sweet, president of the York Company, Claremont Pines Art Jury, comprised of told the Tribune that “competent develop- prominent local architects, made certain that ment experts” declared Claremont Pines a all the homes were attractive and in harmony “masterpiece.” He assured Tribune readers with the image the Claremont Pines Corpora- In this issue that the new neighborhood would become tion envisioned. New members 3 “the finest home area in the bay district.” In 1930, some three years after develop- Berkeley Daily Gazette Memorial to key members 3 The company hired A.V. Cole as sales ment began, the called Claremont Pines “one of the hand- Historic preservation in China 4 manager., who came all the way from Holly- somest residential parks in the entire state.” Donors 4 wood. “He has been identified with some of the most noted developers,” the Tribune Clyde Sweet’s prediction three years earlier Upcoming events 8 had come true, at least according to the reported. n Preservation action news 9 “Men and machinery are working every Gazette. Redwoods history 10 day,” an Oct. 16, 1926 Tribune advertise- Buy tour tickets at www.oha-greatestates. The Livermore family 12 ment boasted, this just one week after Mary moved out. eventbrite.com or call 763-9218 for info.

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OHA benefited from their wit, integrity, and vast knowledge By Naomi Schiff Fall and winter have brought the losses of four key people in OHA’s founding, develop- ment, and current activities: Michael Crowe, Carolyn Douthat, Jane Powell, and Cynthia Shartzer, each an irreplaceable member of JANEPOWELL.ORG the preservation community.

If you needed a careful reading of the legal underpinnings, a creative approach to approach historic preservation, and a concise explanation of how it could work in the rules and regulations, you called Carolyn Douthat, an attorney who gave enormous hunks of time to the preservation community—an OHA board member, CPF board member and president, and highly regarded author of studies on economic incentives and on mitigation measures for historic preservation. All of it was delivered "THIS IS MY HOUSE, CIRCA 1910,” wrote Jane on her website. “Jesse Matteson, the with wry asides, penetrating questions, and a man who designed and built it, owned a lumberyard. He lost the lumberyard in a reces- faint air of exasperation that so many people sion in 1908. He managed to hold onto the house until 1912. I lost most of my income in the economic crash of 2008, one hundred years later." were so dense. After the Loma Prieta earth- quake, OHA worked closely with her in fig- carry her message: her many writings and Francisco Chronicle, and others. Her writing uring out a response to the devastating deci- her public speaking were entirely adequate combined caustic wit, great use of language, sion by the city to demolish the Pardee to spread the idea that preservation and re- preservation knowledge, and hands-on expe- Building, a large historic building on San use of good structures is the modern, sensi- rience. Her early passing just as she had Pablo Avenue, north of City Hall. The ble, and aesthetically right thing to do. Yet, turned the financial corner on saving the Facade Improvement Program that resulted, she devoted years to being a board member huge house she dubbed The Bungamansion was Carolyn’s creation. and president of OHA. Memorably, Jane’s is a tragedy; we’re left to wonder what more When you went to the 1870s house east of presidency endured a protest (with picket she might have done. the lake, after the boisterous greeting by her signs) by some Lakeshore area residents, “It’s not as though it isn’t still possible to beloved dog Rose you saw shelves of books when OHA objected to the demolition of the find tacky souvenirs. I simply worry about on gardening, and volumes of local and west- Rubino Building. Meeting in the kitchen at the spread of tastefulness into an area of life ern history, coexisting with recent paintings Camron-Stanford House, the board was where tastefulness isn’t warranted. Therefore, by Squeak Carnwath and other local artists. astonished to find a well-dressed protest I urge everyone to buy tacky souvenirs wher- Carolyn was always ready to weigh in; when group gathered at the front steps, demanding ever you find them, because if you don’t, the Diocese of Oakland suddenly fixed on a to be let in. Imagine the consternation: as they may not be reordered.” site for a new cathedral, smack in front of the tenants of a historic building, we weren’t historic Oakland Auditorium (Henry J. permitted to use the front entry (we entered See MEMORIAL on page 4 Kaiser Convention Center), she was the one through the back) and had absolutely no to call to ask about whether such a use of access to the big iron key that unlocked the Welcome to our new members! public land could occur. (She was understat- front. We were sure the protestors didn’t ing the ensuing controversy when she said: believe us as we shouted through the door OHA is pleased to welcome these newest “Don’t even need to fight it! It will never that we had no way to open it! (A civil meet- members to our roster: happen!”) ing occurred, later on.) In the houses she rehabilitated with enor- Bridget Flanagan, Summer Brenner, mous respect for their histories, yet with Marvin L. Johnson, Daniel Scovill, On the other hand, if you wanted a hilari- Tom Coroneos, Maxine Heiliger, ous, sarcastic, and yet erudite statement regard for the needs of modern life, Jane Ruben & Anita Llamas, before a public body, from someone who lives on. But even more, her writings are Jonathan Lammers, deeply distrusted government, you had to worth revisiting, from her gorgeous books to Kevin & Agnes Faughnan, call Jane Powell. She didn’t need OHA to her articles for the Daily Planet, the San Adam Ellis, Terri James

www.oaklandheritage.org l OAKLAND HERITAGE ALLIANCE l Telephone (510) 763-9218 Page 4 Memorial Thanks to our Continued from page 3 generous donors! Michael Crowe bridged any gaps OHA tours for decades, with a single well- Adrienne DeBisschop, Alison Finlay, between earnest government service, long written critique of some proposed construc- Andrew Carpentier, Angelo & Bruna experience of—and influence on—U.S. tion. (To their credit, cemetery management Taranta, Annalee Allen, Anne & William T. historic preservation practice, and fantastic revised their plans.) Woodell, Arthur Levy, Barbara Grey, Barbara Newcombe, Barbara Sutherland, Michael turned a great phrase; he appreci- social events. His founding in 1981 and Bonnie Meyer, Bruce & Candis Kems, subsequent leadership of the Art Deco Soci- ated architectural whimsy as much as its his- Bruce & Risa Nye, Carol Brookman, ety overlapped with two stints on the board toric and cultural import. Jay McCauley Carol Olmert, Charles Chapman & at Oakland Heritage Alliance, and long quoted Michael describing the Art Deco Annette Smith, Chris Patillo, Christopher involvement as board member and presi- Pflueger Bell Telephone building in San Buckley, Cristin Williams, David & Isabel dent of the California Preservation Founda- Francisco as “ornamented with flying phone- Bradshaw, Dawn Muller, Deborah Rego, tion. He was always eager to merge preser- books.” His career and avocation stretched Donald Hausler, Edmund Ord, vation with a great party, a house tour, a from saving Cincinnati’s famous Art Deco Eldien Kistner, Ellen Wyrick-Parkinson, garden social. The memorial gathering that Union Terminal through working on the Emily Rosenberg, Esther Umezawa, Eunice Childs, Fari Barzegar, repurposing of the Presidio, helping save his husband Dan Jepson assembled was the Foster Flow Control, Gaye Lenahan, best-dressed such event ever seen. Mourn- Oakland’s uptown Art Deco buildings, all the Gordon McBride, Helen Lore, ers donned their best vintage clothing, way to presenting jars of homemade jelly to Ilene Philipson, Ilene Weinreb, Iona Gage, drove up in restored cars, and listened to OHA volunteers. J.A. Jepson, James Holst, Janet Mulshine, jazz age standards. Janice W. Yager, Jason Kaldis, We always called Michael to understand Cynthia Shartzer was on the board from Jeanne Porter, Jeff Norman & the inner workings of the National Park Ser- 2004 to 2006 and found that her work as an Kathy Geritz, Jerard Reilly, Joan Dark, vice and the National Trust for Historic archaeologist in ancient Cairo was of a piece John Bliss, John Brennan, Preservation. If you had a technical question, with advocating for 19th and 20th century Jonathan & Gaynell Chase, Joyce Hendy, Judith Broude, Judy & Bob Leet, buildings in Oakland. A U.S. Agency for he knew the answer. He always knew exactly Judy & Fred Porta, Judy Jackovics, whom to call. He was completely authorita- International Development professional, she Karen Marie Schroeder, Kathryn Hughes, tive and held firm opinions. His letters were spoke many languages and lived in several Kevin Dwyer, L. Thomas Frye, straightforward, to the point, and sometimes countries. In joining the board, she became Larry Mortimer, Laura Ingram, devastating. Most recently he turned the the best member signup outreach person Lesley Johnson-Gelb, Leslie & Joellen course of a project at Mountain View Ceme- ever: she would grab you at a walking tour or Piskitel, Linda Lewin, Lise Thogersen, tery, where he had led extremely popular lecture and convert you into a paying mem- Liz Rebensdorf, Lynne Costain, ber before you knew what happened. Marcia Larsson, Margaret Bahan, Her doggedness, intensity, and scholarly Margaret Phillips, Margaret Sheehan, Mario & Kathleen DiGiovanni, rigor resulted in an exemplary landmark Martha Becker, Mary Harper, Mary Davis, application for the Ninth Avenue Terminal, May Blaisdell, Melinda Stuart, which was used as the underpinnings for all Mike Lydon, Naomi Schiff, the ensuing studies, documents, and environ- Patricia Vanderberg, Paul Hennessey & mental studies. She deposited a tidy box of Susan Dague, Peter Lomhoff, background research at the OHA office one Puanani Forbes, Rachel Force, day, just assuming, from her own example, Raleigh E. Hughes, Jr., Ralph E. Anderson, that everyone did this when they wrote some- Renate Coombs, Robert & Roberta thing up. After she and her husband Brian Geering, Roberta O’Gary, Ruth Shibley, S. H. Mesnick, Sally Beck, were posted out of the country again, she Sandy Threlfall, Shelagh Brodersen, continued to write letters to government enti- Stephanie Casenza, Stephen & Valerie Tom Haw ties, pushing for the reuse of the terminal Garry, Steve & Heather Walker, In memory of Michael Crowe, Jane Powell, building from afar. She would suddenly Stuart Swiedler, Susan Berge, Carolyn Douthat, Cynthia Shartzer weigh in (from Lima, Peru!) with a comment Thomas Haw, Thomas Van Demark, Alison Finlay on news we had sent, or encourage our advo- Tim Hallahan, Tim Little In memory of Michael Crowe, Jane Powell, cacy efforts. In a recent email she wrote: Carolyn Douthat, Cynthia Shartzer “This tribute brings back memories of the fantastic Revels performances . . . . Brian & Our fabulous Walking Naomi Schiff I are looking forward to this December’s per- Tours begin in July! To In memory of Michael Crowe, Jane Powell, formance at the Scottish Rite Temple when volunteer, call 763-9218. Carolyn Douthat, Cynthia Shartzer we’re back in CA for the holidays.” n

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Some personal observations about historic preservation in China By David Nicolai Someone recently brought to my attention the fact that four years ago, when I left Oak-

land to become an English teacher in China, VID NICOLAI

an item appeared in an OHA News column DA about my departure. Noting the widespread destruction of old Beijing neighborhoods to make way for the 2008 Summer Olympics, the anonymous author made the light-hearted suggestion that I could teach people here a few things about historic preservation. Well, I have been busy teaching English, not historic preservation, here for four years—the year in Yangshuo-Guilin, in the south of China; the second in Shenyang in the northeast; and the last two in Tongxiang, about 120 kilometers west of Shanghai in East China. I have also travelled to Beijing, Hong Kong, Xi’an and Guangzhou. Even if I haven’t taught historic preservation, I’ve vis- ited historic buildings, villages, and muse- ums, and observed preservation in practice here. I have learned some Chinese, but little enough that the following observations will VERY TYPICAL ENTRYWAY to a historic house in Huangyao. be very personal, informal, and non-expert. Yes, it came too late, as it did in the U.S. and trips within Guangxi province took me to The good news is that historic preservation elsewhere, after years of destruction to his- more interesting destinations. A favorite stu- is alive and kicking in the People’s Republic. toric buildings and artifacts during the Cul- dent took me to his hometown of Quanzhou, tural Revolution (c. 1966–1976) and the first a non-descript, small city of no interest, years of breakneck economic growth during except for a lovely Buddhist temple where the post-Mao era (c. 1980s and 1990s). restoration work was underway to repair the Things have improved since then, and during ravages of the Cultural Revolution. I got

VID NICOLAI the past 20 years or so there is clear evidence goosebumps watching workers laboring to DA that historic preservation (and environmental place a reproduced, colossal head atop a protection) are increasingly important goals Buddha statue. “Squash the Cultural Revolu- for the rulers of China. tion!” I thought. The same student took me I first flew to Guangzhou, perhaps better and a few friends on a day visit to Huangyao, known to readers as Canton, which was near- a charming and well preserved village and by to my first job in Yangshuo. During three the site for filming outdoor scenes in The dizzying days in this huge metropolis of sev- Painted Veil, a wonderful movie which par- enteen million people, I was able to visit or tially motivated my move to Guangxi. One take photos of a historic Catholic cathedral, remarkable thing about Huangyou, which is Anglican church, and Muslim mosque (there also true in every other historic Chinese vil- is limited freedom of religion here), as well lage I have visited, is that it is a completely as stroll the charming hutongs, or alleyways, inhabited town, despite its being heavily pro- of central Guangzhou. I felt hopeful that tected by government statute. Old Chinese other Chinese cities would have as much his- towns are bustling with the real life of the tory to offer. local people—well-preserved but empty his- Yangshuo, on the other hand, is a thorough- toric buildings or period actors are not the ly modern town, the creation of a tourist Chinese way. Finally, I visited Longsheng, a boom due to the magnificent karst peaks tourist destination world famous primarily for landscape surrounding it, with no historic its steep and magnficent rice terraces, but CONCRETE ART DECO FACADE of a resources to worry about. The same was true 1933 Shanghai building. of Guilin, the nearest large city, but three day See CHINA on page 6

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China Tongxiang, a relatively prosperous manufac- before seeing it that Shanghai is a remarkably turing center which, if it ever had any historic pleasant and civilized city, with lovely parks Continued from page 5 buildings, lost them years ago. But only sev- and trees and flowers everywhere, clean also for its lovely wooden houses, a rarity in enteen kilometers away lies Wuzhen, one of streets, civilized traffic(a rarity here!), world- China. Not only were the old houses well the most famous of all the historic “water vil- famous skyscrapers, and, best of all, more preserved (and lived in, by farmers and ani- lages” which dot this region of many rivers historic buildings than you can shake a stick mals!), but the many new buildings were also and canals. I have only visited Wuzhen once, at. Despite the vagaries of its twentieth-cen- of wood and designed in the old style. in the summer of 2011, partially because a tury history, including the War Against Whether this was due to local zoning or sim- day’s outing there can be an expensive Japanese Aggression (WWII), the Civil War, ply because the locals were smart enough to proposition. The admission fee is 150 yuan and the Cultural Revolution, much of the his- build in a manner that would encourage (around $23), and, at that price, you might as toric fabric of this wonderful city remains tourism, I do not know. well spend most of the day there, perhaps eat intact and is very unlikely to be lost in the My second year was spent in Shenyang, both lunch and dinner at restaurants, have a near future. For example, most observers real the ugliest place I have ever lived, in the few beers, and spend some money. agree that Shanghai has the largest number of frigid Dongbei, or Northeast, of China. An Although the Beijing government decreed Art Deco buildings in the world, and if you industrial powerhouse, I most remember that all public museums were to be free to the search “shanghai art deco” at Shenyang for its block after block of dead public shortly after I got here in 2009, his- www.flickr.com, you will see hundreds of street trees and rubble-strewn sidewalks, toric (and natural) sites are another matter examples of these worthy survivors. though it does contain the Gu Gong, the sec- altogether, and many are very expensive by Shanghai is most famous, of course, for ond most important imperial palace in China American standards. Remarkably, most of The Bund, the dozen of so gleaming Art after the Forbidden City in Beijing. It also is these high-priced home to an intriguing house museum, the attractions are Zhang Xueliang Mansion, an early twentieth- crowded with Chi- century residence with an imposing front nese tourists most a tes- facade worthy of Paris or Vienna, such an of the year— VID NICOLAI incongrous sight in Shenyang, China! Zhang tament to the bur- DA is actually a fascinating historic figure—a geoning middle- former opium addict and playboy who class and its eager- cleaned up his act and played a genuinely ness to explore heroic role in bringing the Communists and China’s historical Nationalists together to fight the Japanese in legacy. the 1930’s, but inside the house is filled with Wuzhen is indeed third-rate period furniture and has very little very charming and about Zhang’s fascinating life. absolutely worthy Alas, the same is also true of two other of a one-day trip, house museums in Shanghai, the Soong but Shanghai is a Ching Ling and Sun Yat-Sen Museums. teeming, colorful These were two of the greatest champions of megalopolis of well a liberal and democratic China during the over twenty million twentieth century, and both gorgeous houses people (arguably are located in the heart of the French Conces- the largest city in sion, Shanghai’s most historic and most the world, depend- beautiful district. They also both have small ing on how you museum areas where you can learn much count city popula- about Ms. Soong and Mr. Sun, but the period tions), and I have rooms are lifeless. China needs a few foreign only just begun to experts to help, and I volunteer! explore it, despite I have been living very close to Shanghai many trips there for the past two years (30 minutes away by over the past two bullet train), in the Yangtze River Delta years. I knew region of East China, which I regard as the before my first visit heartland of Chinese culture and history that I would find the (Hangzhou, which many Chinese consider city very large and the most cultured city in the country, is only very complex, but I fifteen minutes away by train). I teach in did not realize SHIKUMEN DOORWAY to an art gallery in Tianzifang, Shanghai.

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Deco and Neo-classical high rises which blocks of typical symbolized the city’s commercial and finan- shikumen housing cial might during the early twentieth century in central Shanghai

(all of which have been carefully restored in which were exten- VID NICOLAI recent years), but there is so much more to sively rehabilitated DA Shanghai than the Bund. There are dozens of in 2001 and turned historic temples, churches, mosques, and into a center of synagogues (one of which now houses the very upscale din- first-rate Museum of Jewish Refugees con- ing and shopping. cerning the large community of German and For those whose East European Jews who escaped to Shang- tastes do not run hai in the 1930s); lots of late nineteenth-cen- toward expensive tury colonial structures; the aforementioned stores or restau- Art Deco; and, my favorite, block after block rants, Xintiandi of lilong, or shikumen, housing from c. 1910- does offer an 1940. In Chinese lilong means neighborhood excellent Shiku- lane and shikumen means stone gate, and men House Muse- these names capture two of the essential ele- um, recreating the ments of this housing type. A typical building lives of typical res- OLD HOUSES and boats in Huangyao will occupy an entire city block whose idents of that periphery contains shops below and houses neighborhood, and a museum honoring the were almost the only visitors to a building above and guards an inner grid of lanes and birthplace of the Chinese Communist Party housing a few uninteresting stores and small courtyards and entryways to hundreds (a bit heavy on the rhetoric, but with some restaurants and many closed businesses. of homes, accessible from the streets through, really valuable artifacts). Oh well, the project is relatively new, and traditionally, pairs of wooden doors framed Xintiandi has been an enormous success, perhaps with new management it will soon by stone portals, often of elaborate design. with huge crowds at all times and in all find its rightful niche in Shanghai’s cultur- According to Anne Warr, author of the weather. A little out the way, and a bit funki- al scene. definitive 2007 guide Shanghai Architecture, er, is Tianzifang (Field Lanes), a much larger I am itching to get involved in historic by 1940 three quarters of Shanghai’s resi- group of shikumen lanes than Xintiandi, preservation or exploration in Shanghai, dents lived in shikumen, and a majority of which were slated for demolition in 2006, but it may not be so easy to do so. Anne the city’s population continued living in them but saved by locals, particularly artists who Warr, mentioned above, founded a group up to the 1990’s, when the economic boom had settled there. Artists’ studios and gal- called Explore Shanghai’s Heritage, but the led to replacement of hundreds, if not thou- leries still predominate at Tianzifang, as well internet indicates they are either very inac- sands, by high-rise buildings. In 2004, the as more modest and alternative restaurants tive or even non-existent. Another group Shanghai government enacted preservation and stores. So an afternoon at Tianzifang called Shanghai Flaneur (despite the very statutes protecting all existing lilongs, and, probably offers a more honest glimpse at French name, they are a group of German according to Warr, “today the inner life of shikumen life than an evening at Xintiandi. expatriates; Germans are much more active Shanghai cannot be fully understood without Another fascinating restoration/adaptive culturally in Shanghai than expatriates venturing through one of the lilong gates into reuse project in Shanghai was completed in from the U.S. or other Western countries) a parallel world of serenity and order.” 2008. It is called Shanghai 1933, because offers a fairly active calendar of walking Most foreign tourists are probably hesitant the building, a fabulous Art Deco all-con- tours of historic Shanghai, but I am very to walk through a shikumen gate, and many crete structure, was completed that year for put off by the ticket price of 300 yuan, or would find it rather messy, what with all the use as a municipal abattoir, or slaughter- almost $50 per head! hanging laundry and people brushing their house. The main facade is very impressive, Neither of these groups would ever teeth and washing their hair in the communal and inside there is an M.S. Escher-like engage in direct advocacy for preserving stone sinks, but I find it utterly charming, maze of curving ramps, walkways, and key buildings, because in China historic particularly with all bicycles and green plants stairs, designed for cows and men alike, preservation is basically in the hands of and pets. I like to tour Shanghai by bicycle, which is most remarkable. The developers government officials. Things have and I never hesitate to stop and wander inside wisely chose a minimalist approach to improved in recent years, but traditionally any shikumen building which looks promis- restoring the interior, including, for exam- the Chinese government has not encour- ing from the outside. For the more squeam- ple, new signage for the “confinement” aged the development of NGO’s (non-gov- ish, there are two projects involving rehabbed rooms for the cattle, and the renovated ernmental organizations, as we say here, shikumen buildings which might seem more structure was meant to become a center of on non-profits, as you say in the U.S.), appealing. One is called Xintiandi (New artistic creativity and industry. Sadly, dur- Heaven and Earth) and is composed of two ing my one visit in 2012, my friend and I See CHINA on page 8

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China Livermores Horatio P. Livermore moved his fami- ly from Oakland to San Francisco in the Continued from page 7 Continued from page 12 1890s. Admiring the work of a young whether in historic preservation or in other ermores had moved to San Francisco, Hora- architect named Willis Polk, Livermore worthwhile causes. tio P. sold the balance of his Rockridge hold- purchased a house on Russian Hill and The urban planners working in Shanghai ings to Realty Syndicate. F.M. “Borax” commissioned Polk to remodel it for are obviously a rather enlightened group, Smith, Realty Syndicate’s principal, was an him. Livermore went on to develop who have not only embraced preservation avid golfer and a charter member of the other Russian Hill parcels and was so but also done some of the highest-quality Claremont Country Club which purchased important to that San Francisco neigh- new development in the world (Oakland city 107 Rockridge acres from the Syndicate borhood’s development that he is planners should be sent here on a field trip!). when it moved in 1904 from the edge of referred to as the “Father of Russian Also, there is lots and lots of money in Lake Merritt to its present site. Hill.” Continuing the family practice of Shanghai, and money talks here (China The Livermore mansion became the coun- hiring important architects, Mrs. Liver- today seems like a more ruthlessly capitalist try club’s first clubhouse and the stables were more ordered up a “widow’s cottage” country than the U.S., in my opinion), so the made over into housing for club employees. from Julia Morgan following her hus- wishes of developers with deep pockets are The remainder of the land later ended up in band’s death in 1916. One of H. P. Liv- also critical in determining the fate of the the hands of the Laymance Real Estate com- ermore’s grandchildren, George Liver- city’s historic landscape. n pany, developers of the various Rockridge more, became an an architect himself. subdivisions above Broadway. Later generations of Livermores have David was director of the Pardee Home On Jan. 24, 1927, the beautiful home devoted themselves to environmental Museum from 1997 to 2009 and an OHA burned to the ground in a four-alarm and conservationist causes. volunteer and director for many years. He blaze that was, according to country club As you wander Claremont Pines during has been teaching oral English in China historian Robert Patmont, “of disputed our April 20 house tour, consider the since February 2009. origin but devastating effect.” The Livermores and their contribution to the neighborhood’s development and their Livermore stables survived on the club n grounds until they had to be torn down role in the history of our state. in 1977.

Join us for these upcoming events! n Why so many things called Anza? A n Partners in Preservation Awards: See fascinating lecture on Oakland’s Juan the award winners and celebrate with them! Tour Bautista De Anza National Historic Trail. 7- 7:30 p.m., Thurs., May 9, Chapel of the 8:30 p.m., Thurs. April 12, at Chapel of the Chimes. Continued from page 1 Chimes, 4499 Piedmont Ave. n socialize with OHA members, architects, Highland Hospital Highlights: Big n homeowners and neighbors while enjoying Tour the Scottish Rite Center: Get a changes at Highland have preserved some of music, drinks and appetizers. peek at this landmark on the western shore of the old, and are replacing the acute hospital Tickets to this multi-venue reception cost Lake Merritt. 10-noon, Sat., May 18, Oak- tower with something seismically stable. 10- n $75 for OHA members; general admission land Scottish Rite Center, 1547 Lakeside Dr. noon, Sat., June 15. tickets are $95. OHA will also honor these tickets on the 1 to 4 p.m. “Vintage Vistas” tour. Advanced ticket purchase is required; no “Sunset over the City” tickets will be available on the day of the tour. Free street parking is available on Broad- way and on nearby side streets. The parking lot at St. Peter’s Anglican Church, 6013 Lawton Ave. will be available after 3:30 p.m. Advance purchase available at http://oha- greatestates.eventbrite.com/. Pick up your prepaid ticket or buy a ticket on the day of the tour at St. Peter’s. Doors open at 12:30 p.m. n

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Preservation action for Oakland projects underway By Naomi Schiff the current historic display at the Oakland n WORKS NINTH AVENUE TERMINAL: History Room. OHA representatives met with the Army Corps of Engineers, the developer, and the n LANDMARKS BOARD APPOINT- State Historic Preservation Office on Feb- MENT: Peter Birkholz, local resident and OF PUBLIC ruary 21. OHA expressed disappointment in an architect with Page & Turnbull, has been our inability to obtain relevant public docu- appointed to the Landmarks Preservation ments and were told to file a FOIA request. Advisory board. Past chairperson Ana Naru- We discussed possible mitigations, saying ta has left due to her move and new life in those proposed were much too weak. The New Mexico. Architect Tom Biggs is leav- new director of SHPO, Carol Roland-Nawi, ing the board, which now seeks an Oakland- OF OAKLAND DEP’T and staffer Kathleen Forrest traveled from resident archaeologist or landscape architect.

THIS DETAIL CITY Sacramento for the meeting. Because the from a 1913–14 Oakland Ninth Ave. Terminal and its platform are Auditorium plan shows elaborate ironwork n LATHAM SQUARE PROPOSAL: along the ridgeline. (The Stirling Calder partly in the navigable channel, the Army City planners are thinking about a no-car reliefs are not seen in this elevation.) Corps has to prepare a Section 106 review plaza around Latham Fountain and Cathe- and supervise mitigations. The developer dral building, a well-known site featured on proposes to demolish all but 20,000 square the cover of Oakland: The Story of a City. other mitigation. At the landmark board’s feet of the 180,000 square-foot building, The historic fountain where Telegraph joins March 11 meeting, staff said that its condi- the last break-bulk terminal of its type on Broadway is proposed as a focal point for a tion needs now to be reviewed to determine the bay. The terminal was built with bond temporary pilot project, to see if the plan the next steps. funds; the older section was completed in would succeed. Find information at 1930 and the newer in 1950. The consultant www2.oaklandnet.com/ n MYSTERIES OF THE DEPART- report agrees that the building is a historic Government/o/PWA/o/EC/s/Bicycleand- MENT FORMERLY KNOWN AS resource. The terminal stands on Tidelands PedestrianProgram/LSPP/index.htm or email REDEVELOPMENT: The city’s down- trust lands, so would remain in public own- ideas to [email protected]. sized development department issued a lim- ership as the developer moves forward with ited RFP (it remains confidential) to two a 60+-acre residential condo project. How- n DEMO BY NEGLECT? An 1896 proponents, to develop an as-yet-unzoned ever, the plan calls for the developer to building on Harrison Street near the mouth vacant parcel created by the 12th Street/Lake demolish most of the terminal and replace of the Posey Tube was seriously damaged in Merritt Boulevard reconfiguration. Also pos- it with a park atop the concrete platform, a fire apparently set by squatters. It is on the sibly up for sale is a lot at Valdez and 23rd, a which stands on pilings half on land and site of a proposed high rise, and the owners site at City Center above the city’s parking half in the water. We continue to advocate are an investment group with ties to Bay lot, and—last but not least—the Henry J. for preserving at least the older section of Alarm. OHA had warned earlier that security Kaiser Convention Center/Oakland Auditori- the building, an important industrial and was deficient. This may be considered um. Much uncertainty remains, as negotia- maritime resource in Oakland’s history. “demolition by neglect” under the city’s con- tions continue between Oakland and the n ditions for approval of a high-rise residential state regarding “clawbacks” and financial CELEBRATION FOR LAKE building at the site. The historic building was arrangements in the wake of the elimination MERRITT: SAVE THE DATE! The city supposed to be offered for sale, move, or of redevelopment agencies, statewide. n of Oakland and the Measure DD Coalition, in which OHA played a large role, invite you to attend a celebration on June 9 to mark the successful completion of the Lake Merritt Boulevard project, which replaced the old protofreeway, added a pedestrian/bike bridge across the newly widened channel to the Estuary, and is cre- ating a bird marsh on the western side of the crossing. A new walking path will con- nect the Lake with the Laney College area. At-grade signalized crosswalks have replaced the slimy tunnels of yore! For photos and information about the area, see

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Yankees arrive and take over the East Bay redwoods Peralta and Moraga’s redwood forests The first of these intruders appeared in irate Dons,” the Smiths and Mendenhall fall victim to laws of supply & demand 1840 in the person of George Patterson who eventually returned to Sutter’s Fort and likely had deserted the English barque Columbia. witnessed the raising of the American flag By Dennis Evanosky Another ship-jumper John Parker had joined complete with a 21-gun salute on July 11, (Part two of three) him. 1846. The sight of Old Glory emboldened When New Spain’s Governor Pablo de Solá, In a twist to our story, Parker had deserted the party to head once again for the San granted Luis Maria Peralta 11 square leagues HMS Sulfur under F. W. Beechey’s com- Antonio Redwoods. of land in today’s East Bay in 1820, the Fran- mand. This time they had company. Henry Clay ciscans stepped in and made two requests: A pair of Frenchmen busied themselves Smith had taken Mary van Gordon as his first, that the governor not grant Peralta out- among the valuable trees. “Two French car- bride. His brother married Margelina Brown. right title to the port that the priests had penters Mm. Sicard and Leroy are exploiting Margelina’s father, Elam Brown, joined them established on the shores of today’s San these woods to good profit, “said fellow on their venture to harvest the redwoods. Leandro Bay near the site of the Oakland countryman Duflot de Mofras in 1841. When the party arrived in the hills above Coliseum. The padres also requested that the De Mofras was in California to assess the Antonio Peralta’s hacienda, they discovered governor allow Peralta to act, not as owner area’s value to the French government. He they were not alone. They happened upon to, but as guardian of, the majestic “San mapped San Francisco Bay; part of his cre- Jacob Harlan and Richard Swift, already Antonio Redwoods” that crowned the hills ation looks like a treasure map leading right there helping themselves to the trees. Har- above the port. The Franciscans had already to Luis Maria Peralta’s San Antonio Red- lan’s cousin Joel joined them in cutting lum- made use of some of the logs in this forest woods. In 1842 Luis divided his inheritance ber for William A. Leidesdorff across the bay when they built Mission San Jose. The among his children. in Yerba Buena. priests did not want to see the trees logged About six months into this venture word for commercial purposes. reached them about John Marshall’s discov-

In 1826, six years after Peralta received his ANOSKY ery of gold at a mill along the American grant, the HMS Blossom under the com- River. mand of Frederick William Beechey sailed Sutter had already made use of the lumber

through the Golden Gate. As he sailed into DENNIS EV milled from trees felled in the San Antonio the bay and navigated his ship toward Yerba Redwoods but it was too costly. He instead

Buena Cove, he noticed (or ran into) an TESY milled trees along the American River, and impediment in the bay: a rock that would that led to Marshall’s discovery. later bear the name of his ship. Beechey dis- COUR The onslaught of gold seekers had its affect covered that he could use a pair of trees that on the San Antonio and Moraga redwoods. towered on the eastern horizon as naviga- Demand for lumber soared and with that tional aids. WILLIAM MENDENHALL was one of the demand the price for a board foot. Burgess Just as the Spanish granted Luis Maria first northern European loggers in the San says that “soon, many a disillusioned miner Peralta his vast rancho, the Mexican govern- Antonio Redwoods. was hurrying to the redwoods.” n ment did the same for Joaquin Moraga and his cousin Juan Bernal. The Moraga-Bernal This may have drawn some unwanted In part three, we’ll meet the loggers who dis- spread consisted of 13,000 acres in an area attention to the intruders in the hills above covered an untapped forest: the Middle Red- that later encompassed the towns of Canyon, Antonio’s hacienda because the logging woods. Moraga and Lafayette. Moraga and Bernal stopped at least for a while. named their grant Rancho de Laguna de los This attention likely encouraged John Palos Colorados—Ranch of the Lake of the Augustus Sutter who had been importing Redwoods. The name reflected not only the lumber from the San Antonio Redwoods to ANOSKY impressive trees on their property, but also mill the pine trees closer to home instead. the lake that once stretched through the A trio that historian Sherwood Burgess property that now contains Moraga’s Cam- paints as the “vanguard of the American log- DENNIS EV gers” in the San Antonio Redwoods arrived

polindo High School. TESY Moraga, Bernal and Peralta were primarily at Sutter’s Fort Christmas Day 1845. Early in interested in raising cattle and paid little 1846, Napoleon Bonaparte Smith, his brother COUR attention to the trees that bordered their graz- Henry Clay Smith and William Mendenhall ing fields; at least until ship-jumpers, headed for the redwoods in the hills across scalawags and other fugitives from polite from Yerba Buena. The Peraltas scarcely REDWOODS from Oakland created the society began helping themselves. made them feel welcome. After fleeing “the foundation beneath the Montgomery Block in downtown San Francisco.

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are they distracting and unsafe, but this is a Adieus, thank yous and news bad deal for Oakland. OHA is now 33 years old. Last year we By Alison Finlay, President Jane Powell and Carolyn Douthat. Naomi’s published an expanded version of Beth Bag- In January I became OHA’s new president. I article in this issue remembers them and well’s Oakland: The Story of a City. We am grateful to have a hard-working board of their preservation legacies in Oakland. We owe a big thank you to the DeLong Sweet Tom Haw, Melissa Pauna, Doug Dove, are starting a Memorial Fund for preserva- Foundation and others for financial support Naomi Schiff, Kathryn Hughes, and Dea tion advocacy in their honor. Please consid- in helping us realize that long held goal. Bacchetti, and pleased to welcome new er remembering them with a contribution to In March, we saw how the St. Joseph’s board members Charles Bucher and Martha keep OHA’s voice strong. Senior housing adaptive use project was Peck. I am also extremely blessed to have Speaking of advocacy, we are delighted coming along and as part of our lecture as executive director the multi-talented, ded- (and very proud!) that the Oakland League series there was a Jazz History of Oakland icated January Ruck who holds down our of Women Voters has chosen to honor at Piedmont Piano Company. office, applies for grants, and manages myr- Naomi Schiff this spring with a Making What’s ahead this year? We’d like to capi- iad details that get our programs accom- Democracy Work award for her work as a talize on the work of the city’s Cultural Her- plished and our goals met. January, you’re preservation and city planning advocate. itage Survey and put plaques on more of awesome! Bravo! Naomi says she is a front person, Oakland’s historic buildings. We want to I also want to thank our outgoing presi- that we are in this together. True, but we are build our membership. In April, we are put- dent, Rachel Force, who filled an unexpect- grateful to have a dedicated, thoughtful and ting together a house tour in two versions, ed office vacancy, restored order to the gracious representative on the frontlines. an afternoon tour and in the evening a bene- office, and helmed our turn as host city for Thank you Naomi! fit tour with food, wine and entertainment at the state preservation conference last May. Also providing invaluable assistance is lovely homes with sparkling sunset views of Joan Dark is also leaving the Board. After Chris Buckley, whose incisive commentary the bay. We can use volunteers; please call working on the Fernwood House Tour, on preliminary planning policy has led to the office if you’d like to pitch in! Walking Tour, Lecture and Building Tours more preservation-friendly zoning. OHA, In May, we honor worthy projects and Committees, Joan is cutting back. She and Oakland, is in his debt. people with our Partners in Preservation promises to continue to be involved, but not OHA has influenced city policy, urging awards, and visit the Scottish Rite Center, as much. Thank you Joan and Rachel for all the city to act responsibly. an art deco gem. you have done! Recently we have been critical of a 66- So, mark your calendars, invite a friend or On a sadder note, this winter saw the year contract allowing 17 new electronic neighbor, and join us as we explore and cel- deaths of board members Michael Crowe billboards along the approach to Oakland ebrate Oakland! n and Cynthia Shartzer, and past-presidents from the Bay Bridge eastbound. Not only CONTRIBUTORS: Kathleen DiGiovanni, Dennis Evanosky, Alison Finlay, Kitty Hughes, Elaine Macy, David Nicolai, Martha Peck, January Ruck, Naomi Schiff PRODUCTION: Erika Mailman

OHA News welcomes article submissions. Send to [email protected].

MISSION STATEMENT: OHA is a nonprofit membership organization which advocates the protection, preservation and revitalization of Oakland’s architectural, historic, cultural and natural resources through publications, educa- tion, and direct action.

BOARD OF DIRECTORS Alison Finlay, President Tom Haw, Vice President Doug Dove, Treasurer Melissa Pauna, Secretary Dea Bacchetti, Charles Bucher, Kathryn Hughes, Martha Peck, Naomi Schiff Executive Director: January Ruck

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The Livermores of Rockridge Y

By Kathleen Leles DiGiovanni acres in the rural Oak- OR Once upon a time, a native of Maine named land hills. On his portion Horatio Gates Livermore made his arduous of the property Horatio way to California to make his fortune in P. Livermore built a 38- gold. He settled in Georgetown, El Dorado room mansion for his OAKLAND HIST County, and by 1854 he had become a Cali- family at a spot fornia State Senator. Two years later his sons described by Robert Pat- Horatio Putnam and Charles E. Livermore mont in his History of traveled west to join their father in California. the Claremont Country [For the sake of clarity it’s important to Club as “across Broad- note here that the Livermores of our story are way Terrace from the fif- not to be confused with the Robert Liver- teenth green” or roughly mores of the Livermore Valley. They are two near what is now Glen- entirely unrelated families.] brook Drive and Horatio G. Livermore had recognized the Romany Road. untapped power of the American River and The family built three envisioned a prosperous mill town on its homes in total but THE LIVERMORE HOUSE in use as the country club banks like the towns of his native New Eng- according to daughter clubhouse sometime before 1927 land. He built a sawmill at what is now the Mattie Livermore Hurt- Country Club. According to a Piedmonter city of Folsom to process logs brought down gen everyone lived together in the big house article by Ray Raineri, Livermore’s many the river from higher elevations. To power that H.P. built. She described an idyllic child- plantings include the massive old eucalyptus that mill the Livermores, father and sons, hood of horseback rides and picnics in the that still stands at the intersection of Golden built the first dam across that river. From that open countryside. Gate and Acacia, the tree that became a bea- beginning the family’s interests spread. By The Livermores laid out many of the Rock- con of hope in the aftermath of the 1991 1862 they had acquired the Natoma Water ridge streets that are with us today. In a map Oakland hills fire. and Mining Company and after that 9,000 filed with the county in 1879, the Livermore In 1891 H.P. Livermore sold 58 acres of his acres of William Leidesdorff’s Rancho de los brothers, along with Jack Hays, set out as Rockridge property to Oakland banker Philip Americanos. Over the years the Livermores’ permanent public thoroughfares Acacia, E. Bowles. When Bowles built a new house interests spread statewide from land, lumber, Buckeye, Ocean View, Brookside and others. for himself, “The Pines,” within view of the and hydroelectric power to railroads, irriga- In a newspaper interview published in the Livermore home, Horatio P. had his 38-room tion, vineyards, wineries, and fruit-drying. 1950s, Mrs. Hurtgen recalled her father as “a house moved down the hill and across the Their power-generating interests ultimately lover of trees and flowers” who planted hun- valley to a site closer to the intersection of became part of the Pacific Gas & Electric dreds of eucalyptus, cedar, and redwood trees McAdam (now Broadway Terrace) and Company. on his land. The nursery that Livermore Broadway. Several years later, after the Liv- In 1869 Horatio P. and Charles Livermore, established, Thermal Vale, appears on early along with Col. Jack Hays, purchased 600 maps along the greens of today’s Claremont See LIVERMORES on page 8