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Tyrosinase and Melanogenesis Inhibition by Indigenous African Plants: a Review

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Tyrosinase and Melanogenesis Inhibition by Indigenous African Plants: a Review cosmetics Review Tyrosinase and Melanogenesis Inhibition by Indigenous African Plants: A Review Laurentia Opperman 1 , Maryna De Kock 1, Jeremy Klaasen 1 and Farzana Rahiman 1,2,* 1 Department of Medical Bioscience, University of the Western Cape, Cape Town 7535, South Africa; [email protected] (L.O.); [email protected] (M.D.K.); [email protected] (J.K.) 2 Skin Research Lab, Department of Medical Biosciences, University of the Western Cape, Robert Sobukwe Rd, Bellville, Cape Town 7535, South Africa * Correspondence: [email protected] Received: 23 June 2020; Accepted: 13 July 2020; Published: 29 July 2020 Abstract: The indiscriminate use of non-regulated skin lighteners among African populations has raised health concerns due to the negative effects associated with skin lightener toxicity. For this reason, there is a growing interest in the cosmetic development of plants and their metabolites as alternatives to available chemical-derived skin lightening formulations. Approximately 90% of Africa’s population depends on traditional medicine, and the continent’s biodiversity holds plant material with various biological activities, thus attracting considerable research interest. This study aimed to review existing evidence and document indigenous African plant species capable of inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase and melanogenesis for potential incorporation into skin lightening products. Literature search on melanin biosynthesis, skin lightening, and tyrosinase inhibitors resulted in the identification of 35 plant species were distributed among 31 genera and 21 families across 15 African countries and 9 South African provinces. All plants identified in this study showed competent tyrosinase and melanogenesis inhibitory capabilities. These results indicate that African plants have the potential to serve as alternatives to current chemically-derived skin lighteners. Keywords: skin lightening; cosmetics; indigenous plant extracts; tyrosinase; melanogenesis 1. Introduction Melanin is a widespread natural pigment that is responsible for color in hair, skin, and eyes. It provides protection against the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) irradiation [1]. Melanogenesis is the physiological process of melanin formation in which TYR, a copper-dependent enzyme, initiates the first step. Tyrosinase catalyzes the rate-limiting step where L-tyrosine is converted to L-3,4,-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA), leading to the eventual formation of the pigment (Illustrated by Scheme1)[ 2–5]. Abnormal TYR activity leads to pigmentary disorders, such as the abnormal accumulation of melanin (hyperpigmentation) that accounts for most dermatology visits [6–8]. Skin lighteners can be divided by their mechanisms of action, such as inhibition of tyrosinase transcription, inhibition of melanosome transfer, and accelerated epidermal turnover, with the most common target being tyrosinase (TYR) inhibition [9,10]. By decreasing the activity and/or expression of TYR, melanogenesis can be inhibited, leading to reduced melanin production [11]. Cosmetics 2020, 7, 60; doi:10.3390/cosmetics7030060 www.mdpi.com/journal/cosmetics CosmeticsCosmetics2020 2020, 7, 60, 7, x FOR PEER REVIEW 2 of2 14of 14 Scheme 1. Illustration of the melanogenesis pathway. Scheme 1. Illustration of the melanogenesis pathway. The skin lightening industry is one of the fastest-growing segments of the global beauty industry. Global industryThe skin analysts lightening (GIA) industry have predicted is one of that the byfastest-growing 2020, the universal segments skin lighteningof the global market beauty willindustry. reach $23 Global billion industry [12]. A recent analysts meta-analysis (GIA) have provided predicted evidence that by 2020, of the the global universal prevalence skin lightening of skin lighteningmarket will use byreach reporting $23 billion an estimate[12]. A recent of 27.7%, meta-ana withlysis Africa provided at a current evidence estimated of the global prevalence prevalence of 27.1%of [skin13]. Previouslightening epidemiological use by reporting studies an haveestimate also of reported 27.7%,a with high prevalenceAfrica at a of current skin lightener estimated useprevalence among African of 27.1% populations. [13]. Previous This is epidemiological evident among Southstudies African, have also Senegalese, reported and a high Nigerian prevalence study of populationsskin lightener that revealeduse among between African 32 populations. to 75% skin lightenerThis is evident use [14 among–16]. South African, Senegalese, and NigerianThis practice study ispopulations motivated that by revealed a long-standing between history 32 to 75% of socialskin lightener divisions, use including [14–16]. societal pressuresThis and practice stigmas, is leading motivated to the by demand a long-standing for lighter history skin tones of social [17,18 divisions,]. Creams, including lotions, soaps, societal andpressures injections and indicated stigmas, as leading a treatment to the for demand hyperpigmentation for lighter skin disorders tones [17,18]. are exceedingly Creams, lotions, abused soaps, as self-medicationand injections to indicated achieve a as lighter a treatment skin complexion for hyperpigmentation [19,20]. In many disorders African are countries, exceedingly a variety abused of as theseself-medication skin lightening to preparations achieve a lighter are easily skin obtainedcomplexion over-the-counter [19,20]. In many without African a medical countries, prescription, a variety of despitethese this skin being lightening a requirement preparations by law [15 ,are21]. easily The most obtained frequently over-the-cou used ingredientsnter without include steroids,a medical mercury,prescription, hydroquinone despite (HQ)this being (considered a requirement the gold by standard), law [15,21]. and The its derivatives most frequently [7]. Health used concernsingredients associatedinclude withsteroids, the long-termmercury, usehydroquinone of these skin (HQ) lightener (considered ingredients the gold include standard), exogenous and its ochronosis derivatives and[7]. infectious Health concerns dermatosis associated [22,23]. Furthermore,with the long-term heavy use metal of these exposure skin canlightener lead to ingredients damage to include the circulatoryexogenous and ochronosis urinary systems and infectio [24]. Dueus dermatosis to their toxicity, [22,23]. these Furtherm compoundsore, heavy have metal been prohibitedexposure can as skinlead lighteningto damage compounds to the circulatory in several and Africanurinary countries,systems [24]. including Due to South their toxicity, Africa, Nigeria, these compounds Kenya, andhave the Ivorybeen Coastprohibited [25,26 ].as Despiteskin lightening this ban, compounds these damaging in several chemicals African are often countries, illegally including introduced South intoAfrica, cosmetic Nigeria, formulations Kenya, and and, the the Ivory public Coast continues [25,26]. toDespite gain access this ban, via these informal damaging channels chemicals such as are streetoften vendors, illegally markets, introduced and non-pharmaceuticalinto cosmetic formulations shops [ 27and,,28 ].the In public contrast, continues botanicals to gain and naturalaccess via ingredientsinformal ochannelsffer safer such alternatives as street as theyvendors, may mark not exhibitets, and the non-pharmaceutical same kind of toxicity shops as synthetic [27,28]. In compoundscontrast, botanicals and could and exhibit natural much ingredients less harmful offer side safer eff ectsalternatives [29]. Despite as they this, may consumers not exhibit are the not same generallykind of aware toxicity that as natural synthetic products compounds are composed and coul ofd a varietyexhibit ofmuch chemical less compoundsharmful side that effects could [29]. leadDespite to the developmentthis, consumers of are some not adverse generally reactions. aware that These natural potential products effects are could composed be overcome of a variety by of researcherschemical chemically compounds characterizing that could lead extracts to the with develo respectpment to of its some composition adverse [reactions.30]. These potential effectsBotanicals could and be naturalovercome ingredients by researchers provide chemica abundantlly sourcescharacterizing of treatment extracts for variouswith respect diseases to its suchcomposition as cancer, diabetes, [30]. and dermatological conditions [31,32]. The use of plants is a common practice in traditionalBotanicals medicines and natural of many ingredients cultures usingprovide several abunda plantnt sources extracts of as treatment cosmetics for to improvevarious diseases skin healthsuch [33 as,34 cancer,]. This coulddiabetes, be attributed and dermatological to plant extracts conditions being a[31,32]. rich source The ofuse vitamins, of plants antioxidants, is a common oilspractice/essential in oils, traditional and other medicines bioactive compounds,of many cultures which using provide several the body plant with extracts nutrients as necessarycosmetics to forimprove healthy skin health [30]. Plants[33,34]. also This constitute could be attributed a variety to of plant chemical extracts compounds being a rich that source elicit of various vitamins, pharmacologicalantioxidants, activitiesoils/essential with oils, the possibilityand other that bioa thesective compounds compounds, act which synergistically provide tothe produce body with a nutrients necessary for healthy skin [30]. Plants also constitute a variety of chemical compounds that Cosmetics
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