A proper winter in the vines

Once again, the cold reminds us of in the cellar ’s continental climate with its traditionally distinct seasons. Winter was Next stage of ageing for the magnificent 2009, “ of pleasure” again into its stride early and December Ladu DOMAINE lettre DE LA VOUGERAIE was especially bracing, with lots of snow N°34. Winter 2010-2011 and very low temperatures. The systematic earthing-up of the vines as a protection against cold seemed a particularly wise precaution. All the same, this method did not prevent a great many plants freezing THE SPIRIT OF last winter, meaning we had a fair bit of replanting to do. Let’s hope that in the ♦ Welcome to Bâtard- current conditions the sap was well down Dear friends, Montrachet and the wood will not suffer too much and freeze again. We will know once the growth A new year began cycle begins again. in the cold and fog. The Côte The relatively milder weather at the start From left to right, head of sales Sylvie Poillot, winemaker Pierre Vincent and Nathalie Bergès-Boisset. is chilled to the ♦ The 2010 wines, of January allowed us to resume pruning, bone, but despite The 2009 wines inexorably continue their path the others. These were some nice surprises gentle malolactic which was started in November with the freezing action the majority of the vines cut back by the to glory, maturing in line with the perfection from that . temperatures, the days are starting to lengthen and on the beginning of the year. As always, we will of that flawless vintage. ♦ rare sunny days, winemakers can glimpse the prospect of finish in February with the grand crus – as ♦ In December, we continued with a second better days ahead. This year will mark a turning point in the resume late as possible to avoid the risks of a late July saw the first bottling of the precocious phase of bottling for the Côte de Beaune white, history of our estate with the inclusion among our vineyards ♦ A proper winter of a fabulous property in Bâtard-Montrachet. This great freeze. Beaune Clos du Roi, Beaune La Montée Red, the Pommard, and all the Gevrey-Chambertin in the vines Savigny-Lès-Beaune Les Marconnets and the except the untrained vines of Les Evocelles. white Burgundy, which is among the most reputed, joins two Vougeot Clos du Prieuré. Around the same The final round of bottling will take place in our five existing plots of white grapes, much to our delight. ♦ As an amusing aside, the vine workers time we racked off the Gevrey-Chambertin, the spring. We are in fact thrilled with this magnificent acquisition, ♦ transplanted some examples not of vitis the village plots of La Justice and Les Evocelles, a vineyard that we will get to know gradually throughout vinifera but of kiwi from Le Prieuré to the followed by some of the other wines just after The style is beginning to emerge more the seasons before savoring the first drops of its production ♦ In the cellar nearby Clos Vougeot. But rest assured, the the harvest, which should give the wine a clearly. Both reds and whites show a purity nine months from now, just as if awaiting a new baby! Next stage of ageing wine shouldn’t be showing any strange second wind to handle the powerful intensity and freshness thanks to being harvested at ♦ for the magnificent exotic notes because the harvest of the two of the vintage. They will finish maturing on optimum ripeness with care not too leave it We wish you the very best for the year. 2009, “wines of pleasure” fruits does not coincide. the fine lees to temper their power with some too late, which can result in heaviness. They are ♦ delicacy. already a pleasure to taste, offering themselves ♦ willingly. This will be an exemplary vintage for The Boisset Family and the Domaine de la Vougeraie team. One characteristic of this dazzling year is laying down, but also one that can be enjoyed the revelation of our most difficult wines in its youth: The ultimate testimony of its All Domaine de la Vougeraie wines are grown organically heralding from our high-yield plants sensitive exceptional character. THIS SEASON’S WINES to damp, which was absent in 2009. For ♦ example, the Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Corvées These qualities – all the more prized given Côte de Beaune blanc Beaune Premier Cru Charmes-Chambertin Pagets, the lower plot of Le Clos Vougeot and their rarity – prompted us to prepare more Les Pierres Blanches Les Grèves 2003 Les Mazoyères grand cru the Le Savigny Les Marconnets, all of which magnums than usual, since this is the ideal 2007 2006 A very open, fresh nose An accessible and enticing nose with were wonderful in 2009. The generosity of volume for ageing in anticipation of future black fruits and minerality Aromatic complexity with black fruit A full, flavorsome attack and spices nature practically erased their rustic character, moments of delectation. Refreshing finish with citrus notes Silky in the mouth and surprisingly fresh for the vintage Delicate and fresh in the mouth, closing the usual gap between these wines and Lots of body over a very good yet powerful ♦ structure Nice persistence, yet gentle throughout Concentration and density, smooth, with the length of a magnificent domaine de la vougeraie – 7 bis, rue de l’Eglise – 21700 PREMEAUX-PRISSEY Exquisite with fish fritters like salt grand cru fish accras or tempura Perfect with an osso bucco or FRANCE – www.domainedelavougeraie.com guinea fowl with cabbage Will reveal all its delights alongside TEL : (33) 3 80 62 48 25 – FAX : (33) 3 80 61 25 44 leg of lamb roasted with thyme [email protected] The 2010 wines, gentle malolactic action NEWS No two years are the same, and this is Welcome to Batard-Montrachet simply what the winemaker must deal This is a historic moment for us here at the the legitimate offspring of the Seigneur de the east but a little south, with a maximum with. Although we might dream of ideal Domaine, because we have just added one Puligny. History tells that he divided his land authorized yield of 48hl/ha. conditions, nature provides us with of the most prestigious white Burgundies between his descendants: The oldest son or ♦ more challenges than easy pickings! to our existing five white wines*: Bâtard- “chevalier” (knight), his daughters or “maids”, The wines of Bâtard-Montrachet are generally Montrachet. and the bastard. Each took possession of their very opulent, and are carefully cultivated to ♦ share and the three climats, or plots, kept their In the cellar, the stunning 2009 vintage About six miles south of Beaune lies this small names**. avoid heaviness in the tradition of the Cistercian area of the Côte that produces some of the great ♦ monks who were once a major influence will sit for a few months longer Burgundy whites. It comes as something of a Bâtard-Montrachet is located just below here, according to wine writer and Burgundy alongside its delicate little brother from surprise compared to the steep escarpments the road that separates it from Montrachet, specialist Jacky Rigaux. In his opinion, the 2010. By the start of the year, the first of of our vines on the Côte de Nuits. Here, the at an elevation of 240-250 meters, similar to best years can rival Montrachet. In any case, relatively low and arid rise in the land once Clos Vougeot. It is on a gentle slope, and if we will do everything in our power to raise it the malolactic fermentations had begun known as “mont rachet” (bare mount) over the it wasn’t for the names of the grand crus cut to excellence through biodynamic cultivation in the benign atmosphere of the cellar years became known as Montrachet. into the stone, one would have no idea that which brings out the authenticity of the soil, with a constant temperature of 14°C, ♦ this Burgundian liquid gold has its source and the precision choice of harvest date to ideal for this transformation. We don’t Concentrated on the villages of Puligny- here. There’s nothing elaborate to mark the obtain grapes in tip-top condition, followed by Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet are spot, it all happens in the soil. A soil which want to take any unnecessary risks with gentle vinification. Blending of the older vine five of the six great whitecrus of the Côte d’Or: is quite a deep brown enriched with clay and sluggish fermentations, so the whole art and the younger should mean balance as well Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, Bâtard- silts carried down from the hilltops with many consists of letting them occur slowly but Montrachet, Bienvenues-Montrachet and little limestone pebbles that prove so beneficial as elegance. Criots-Batards-Montrachet, in descending to our . ♦ surely so the wine finds its own balance order of reputation. Only the - ♦ We welcome this bonny baby among us and and stability. Charlemagne situated farther north is Burgundy is a patchwork. To prove this point, wish it a long and happy life! considered part of this elite. One must look Bâtard-Montrachet covers just under 12 It is always hard to judge a wine to the minerality of Chablis to find the seven hectares spread among 16 owners – in other ♦ other white grand crus of Burgundy, which words, a very fragmented area. We managed to * Our other whites, in ascending order: Côte-de-Beaune Les before the malolactic transformation underlines just how rare these great whites acquire two plots which cover a total of 19.88 Pierres Blanches, Beaune, Vougeot Clos du Prieuré Monopole, is complete, since its personality comes are. ares (almost one-fifth of a hectare), which The upper plot, below the famous route to Vougeot Premier Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot Monopole, Corton- ♦ should produce three or four pièces annually, Montrachet, numbers just 15 rows. It is a Charlemagne. through much more clearly afterwards. This Bâtard – or “bastard” – has been prized equivalent to around 1,000-1,200 bottles. plantation comprised mainly of magnificent **Marie-Hélène Landrieu-Lussigny: “Les Lieux-dits dans le Vignoble Nonetheless, our first impressions since the Middle Ages when, despite its birth, These vines are so prized that there have only knotty old vines. One very noticeable Bourguignon”, 1983. are promising: The wines are already it was recognized and ennobled along with been four transactions in the past 35 years. particularity in this area is the pruning using exhibiting freshness and fruit. It is still the so-called Cordon de Royat system, which a sketchy portrait; one that will be opens out on either side along the wires in wide gradually fleshed out over the coming arms. The vines grow quite high here and are densely planted, as is usual among the great months of ageing. Meanwhile, we shall whites, with around 12,000 vines/hectare. The allow them to mature in serenity. competition between the vines encourages a low number of bunches per plant, resulting in the sought-after concentration. ♦ The lower plot, just a few yards distant from the first, is made up of 10 rows. Planted more recently on slightly deeper, well-tended soil, it seems to have more energy. ♦ These two plots are ideally exposed mainly to

The cross at Puligny-Montrachet watches over the great white wines, testimony to the links between spirituality and wine in Burgundy.