On the Platter Our New Western Culinary Series Begins with a Countryside Inspired Modernization of the Archetypal Orange Cheese and Garlic Sausage Plate

OUTwest food of the west

On the Platter Our new western culinary series begins with a countryside inspired modernization of the archetypal orange cheese and garlic sausage plate. By Ingrid Schulz Photos by Krista Kay Photography 2 t first glance, the idea of a stocked condiment pantry to throw together charcuterie platter, with its the ingredients of a perfect western charcute- gorgeously smelly cheeses rie platter. What’s great about the charcute- and smoked meats, not rie platter is its simplicity. Place a pate, a few to mention odd pronun- cured meats, cheeses, pickles, baguette or ciationA (it’s shahr-koo-tuh-ree), seems rather crackers, a fantastic mustard or homemade exotic for the westerner. Too fancy-pants for relish on a rustic cutting board or western- our cowboy palette. In fact, most of us have themed platter, and you’ve got yourself a been witness to the rather shoddy rendition plate of satisfaction guaranteed to satisfy any of the charcuterie platter we as a western cul- cowboy-sized appetite. Add a chutney or ture have condescended to over the decades. relish, a few seasoned nuts and dried fruit, 1 Think of that digressed platter which usually capers and cornichons, an exotic cheese or features a mixture of mundane meat slices two, and homemade or locally sourced cured from the local grocery chain store, and some meats, and you’ll tip the scale into a charcute- sort of a selection of orange, and even, marble rie platter worthy of any western occasion. cheese. While that may have been the go-to Here’s our version of the perfect charcuterie platter of the ‘80’s, nowadays, with the abun- platter – country-inspired of course. 6 dance of local produce in all corners of the Sophisticated and Simple country, and a greater than ever selection of A charcuterie platter is country-style made – simple online purveyors, we can step it up a bit. and delicious, perfect for a picnic, a casual dinner, The truth is, it doesn’t take much more or a mid-winter buffet, guaranteed to satisfy any than a bit of forethought and a reasonably appetite, from kid to cowboy. 24 WESTERN HORSE REVIEW January I February 2013 January I February 2013 WESTERN HORSE REVIEW.COM 25 Meats The word charcuterie is derived from the lar selection of charcuterie meats with some which of these can, and when possible, should French word for “cooked meats” and indeed, good salami, homemade deer sausage or be included on your platter. Remember to let the cured meats of this dish are the star. We chimney sticks – sliced not quite as thin as all of your cheeses sit at room temperature for chose all of our smoked meats from Valbella the cured meats, and arranged on the plat- a little while so they will be full-flavored and in Canmore, Alberta, because they use local ter in a heap. ripe. Also, when storing the leftovers, wrap and natural beef and venison, and make all the pieces in wax paper, not plastic. of their own cured meats and sausages. You 3. Bundnerfleisch This version of the can find the Valbella brand throughout gro- Valbella beef cured meat is a riff from a 6. Grizzly Gouda An award winning gou- cers and farmer’s markets in southern Alberta. Swiss classic, made with Alberta beef, salted da from a Canadian cheese maker – Sylvan Wherever you pick your meat from, be sure and air-dried for 2-3 months. Star Cheese, near Sylvan Lake, Alberta. All to ask to have it sliced paper thin, and if pos- varieties of gouda, from mild to the extra aged Every charcuterie platter ben- sible, add some locally made sausage sliced a 4. Prosciutto and nutty flavor of the gouda we chose, are efits from the addition of a thinly sliced, but- little thicker. Finally, a pate of any sort can top available at some farmer’s markets and can be tery flavored prosciutto, this one made from off your meat offerings. ordered online. locally sourced pork. It pairs beautifully with whatever in-season fresh fruit you can add, 1. Rohess Speck This Valbella specialty 7. Riopelle Triple Cream Cheese Not such as strawberries, or apple pear. made from Alberta pork belly may be the best what we think of as a cream cheese, this is a speck we’ve ever eaten. Heavily smoked with soft brie, with a distinctive rich creamy center. 5. Smoked Buffalo A Valbella exclusive, this birchwood for four days and rubbed with Canadian-made, just outside of Quebec City by birchwood smoked meat is a classic twist on the various herbs to add specific notes of flavor the Fromagerie Ile-Aux-Grues cheese factory. traditional air-dried beef. Made from Canadian the meat, it is then salted and air-cured for rangeland bison, all natural with no hormones a few weeks. Should there be any leftovers, 8. Bleu Benedictine Cheese You’ll likely or antibiotics, the meat is salted, air-dried for throw it into your next soup or stock for an have to find a specialty cheese store to source two months, and the result is a gorgeously incredible deep taste. out the Bleu Benedictin Canadian blue cheese deep-hued and flavored smoked meat. we offered up on this platter. It’s crafted by 2. Salami There are two types of salami – monks in the heart of Benedictine Abbey, those sliced from specific cuts of meat, such Cheese Quebec. Creamy, lightly salty and mush- as prosciutto and those made from chopped When it comes to cheese, there is the soft, the roomy in flavor, it blends well with a chutney or ground meats. Round out your particu- hard and the stinky. A combination or all of and enhances the flavor of any salami.

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24 WESTERN HORSE REVIEW January I February 2013 January I February 2013 WESTERN HORSE REVIEW.COM 25 Building the Platter There is a great trade in expensive charcuterie platters at the moment and a quick search on the internet will put you in touch with purveyors, however, we suggest you use whatever plate or board you have on hand to build your platter. Be creative when choosing your base, but of course make sure it is clean and generally, heavier is preferred over light in the case of a charcuterie platter. Have a variety of cooked and cured meats, a balance of hard, soft and smelly cheeses, and a sweet and spicy selection of condiments. Prepare something on the platter yourself, such as a roasted garlic head, some pickled carrots or a relish you’ve preserved from your garden. Throw in a venison pate, or a fresh cheese such as buffalo mozzarella when the mood or season occurs. Arranging your items artfully is half the fun. Lay out the meats and cheeses in appealing rows and heaps, as balanced as you can have them. Don’t be afraid to drizzle a strawberry spread across the top of a hard cheese or add a couple of delicate flowers from your garden (be sure they are either edible or at the very least, non- poisonous!). Throw in some sprigs of parsley or other herbs for greenery. Utensils are simple, a few spreading and slic- ing knives, small forks and spoons for your guests to scoop up the delicious offerings, and perhaps a cheese curler for the harder cheeses. Add napkins or small plates and you’re set to create and devour.

Condiments ginger chutney from Artisan Edibles, Try any of this selection of country con- a B.C. producer, paired beautifully diments, both to show off some unique with the hard cheeses, such as the flavor bursts, and to pair beautifully with pecorino. your meat and cheese choices. Olives: When possible, choose fresh Spiced Crab Apples: What can be and a wide variety; when not, simply more country than crab apples? This clear out the fridge of what’s left in sweet and tangy version from Edgar your jarred selection. Farms pairs beautifully with the soft cheeses. Garlic: There isn’t anything more fragrant than the scent of a garlic head Pickled Asparagus Tips: Is there roasting in the oven. To make your any pickled vegetable that would fail own: Simply slice g the tops of the to make a fantastic addition to your cloves, drizzle with a dollop of olive oil, charcuterie platter? We think not. We es- wrap it in tin foil and bake it in a 400° pecially like the Edgar Farms slight pop oven for 30 minutes. of spiced version of pickled asparagus. Nuts: We chose a butter rum pecan Mustards: A grainy quality mustard for a sweet alternative on this platter, is a crucial meat condiment. We like but spiced almonds or walnuts are Brassica’s roasted garlic – each yellow also a good choice. and brown mustard seed seems pack a Small Plates flavor pop. Finish off your platter with a selection A selection of baguette slices and artisan of fresh fruit (grapes, pears, apples, crackers compliment a small meat and cheese Chutneys: It’s hard to beat a nice apple-pears, strawberries), dried fruit platter of wild boar pate, pecorino cheese, figs chutney, slathered on a cracker or (figs, dates and apricots), capers, and baguette slice. We found the apple fig cornichuns or “gherkins”. and apple-fig-ginger chutney.

26 WESTERN HORSE REVIEW January I February 2013 January I February 2013 WESTERN HORSE REVIEW.COM 27 Sources: Valbella Gourmet Foods: Canmore, Alberta, with retail locations throughout Calgary. www.valbellagourmetfoods.ca (403) 678-9989 Sylvan Star Cheese: Sylvan Lake, Alberta, with retailers throughout Alberta. www.sylvanstarcheesefarm.ca (403) 340-1560 Edgar Farms: Innisfail, Alberta, offering vegetable garden produce, asparagus, peas, beans, and great preserved items. www.edgarfarms.com Brassica Mustard Ltd: A Canadian natural product, prairie grown and made. www.brassicamustard.com Artisan Edibles: Product range includes wild and exotic jellies, chutneys, antipasti and a popular rose petal scone mix. www.artisanedibles.com Fromagerie Ile-Aux-Grues Cheese: Distinctive and award-winning Canadian cheeses. www.fromagesileauxgrues.com

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